TOP 10 Gas Furnace, PRESSURE SWITCH Error Code Problems!
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- In This HVAC Video, I go over How the Gas Furnace PRESSURE SWITCH Works, How to Tell if There Is a Problem, and What Are The TOP 10 Pressure Switch Problems that I find when Troubleshooting. I also have other Pressure Switch Diagnosis Videos Below! Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while doing this as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
Tools Used In The Video
Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z
UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
UEI Digital Dual Manometer- amzn.to/2CWC6BD
Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka
Supco Universal Adjustable Pressure Switch -.01wc -10.0wc amzn.to/2G1y0py
3/16" x 3/16" x 3/16" brass barbed tee- amzn.to/2INSRhQ
1/8" NPTF x 3/16" barb fitting for reading wc pressure- amzn.to/2G563Bq
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3/16" x 3/16" x 3/16" brass barbed tee- amzn.to/2INSRhQ
1/8" NPTF x 3/16" barb fitting for reading wc pressure- amzn.to/2G563Bq
Supco Universal Adjustable Pressure Switch -.01wc -10.0wc amzn.to/2G1y0py
Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z
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Great video. I worked on a pressure error for several hours over three days. After watching the video a second time, I thought I should check for a hole in the pressure switch line. The tube was pliable, semi opaque and only about 5 inches long. It looked to be in good shape. I could hear the diaphragm open and closed when I gently blew or sucked on the tube. I checked the continuity on the electrical prongs when I sucked, then blew. The switch was opening and closing. Then I looked very closely for a hole in the vacuum line. I didn’t find one, but I did finally notice a very small, light colored, dead insect in the line. I could barely see it. That was the problem!
The best one I have watched! Comprehensively discussed all possible faults. Some other videos are misleading by oversimplifying the error code.
I can’t express enough how good this video is and how well you explained everything. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
My carrier high efficiency furnace Tstat showed it was heating but no heat blowing cold air. A small black tube had come off on one end. Plugged the tube back in and now everything worked. Thanks for all of your videos. I have been able to repair my furnace and AC by watching these videos.
Nicely explained. It helped me to figure out my issue. I live in KY. -7 degrees right now. Dealing with the snowstorm that most of the country just got pounded by. Was throwing the 31 code. I watched many videos and was trying different things. Even blew through my pressure switch tubes which fixed it last time. Ended up that icy snow had gathered in my intake for induction motor blocking the downward pointing pvc pipe. Thanks for helping my brain to realize the issue. Merry Christmas!
Condensation trap!! Woke up to cold house this morning - had this repaired with time for coffee before work. Thanks so much!
I’ve spent the past three years trying to find the cause of an intermittent error 31. This video was amazing. Gave me some more things to check.
I repeatedly watch your video because I could learn a lot as a beginner.
I was much frustrated in practice but nobody explained like Craig.
Great to hear!
Always informative Videos and step by step diagnosis! Thanks again!!!
Thanks L Brown!
Another great video. Your students should be grateful for having a intellectual teacher.
Thanks a lot Ron!
Excellent troubleshooting and explanations!
Great job! Explained very well.
This is the best video I have ever seen on pswitch.
Just a different kind of magnehelic gauge! Good information. Keep up the good work!
Yup, thanks Steven!
As always, awesome well put video! Thanx brother
Thanks Summit!
Great videos im leraning so much plus im reading alot of HVAC and im learning so much with your videos, i bought your 2 books you have great books , you should make one on furnaces i would buy it so fast because your 2 first books are amazing.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge .
Glad to help!
Very helpful. Thank you
Thanks I’ve learned a lot from you. 👍
Thanks Stephen!
Well Said and Explained thank you
Thanks Thomas!
Awesome teacher!
Excellent video.
Good technician and great teacher
Thanks ejohnfall!
This dude is a legend 🙌 he has helped me in the field multiple times ❤️
Great job. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Deanmartin1966!
Hi I just wanna tell you that your are the best and you have the best video and I am a big fan and thank you for all what you do
Thank you very much Stellar!
You welcome I have a question what will happen if I install bigger compressor in a walking cooler or a air conditioner thank you
Though I haven't had a circumstance where I had to install a larger compressor for the system, I would just say, that it won't work with a fixed orifice but with a txv the low side should work at normal pressures. Remember that a larger compressor will need more refrigerant passing through the motor winding area to cool down and more oil return for lubrication so both of these will be lower since the txv will adjust the flow for a smaller system. The current will be higher just do to the size. Other than that, not sure but once again, not sure when someone would really be in a circumstance where they need to oversize since you can match hp even if it is not a direct replacement, Thanks and Merry Christmas Stellar!
Another great video. 👍👍
Thanks Homer!
Thanks for the great video!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you, sir! For sharing!!
Thanks Wilhey!
Very good video, but another cause could be wind! I get code 31 every time we have high wind and have been trying to find a way to prevent it.
Very good!
Excellent presentation.
Thank you kindly!
thanks for this good information ...
Thank you!
Excellent video
Thanks Kenny!
Great video! Very helpful. I had a problem with mine were the installer did not route the drain line properly after it left the unit. Do you do any videos on proper drain line installation or problems. My furnace drain and ac condensate drain were combined before a p trap which was against York’s recommendations and it cause the furnace drain back up after long runs. So I would get intermittent pressure code errors. My hvac guy changed out both sensors and and wanted to change the board next before I said time out. I was surprised that my guy did not use a manometer to check the actual sensors and instead just wanted to start replacing everything since the parts are cover under my York warranty, of course i pay for the labor.
So my heat stopped working and I have watched a ton of videos on it. Love yours it’s great!! Lots of good info. My question is this tho. I seen on another video that the number one issue is a dirty flame sensor. So I took mine out and furnace fired right up. Next day same issue. Then I realized that it has error 31. Decided to clean the flame sensor one more time just in case it worked again. It did! But now I’m in the same boat again and thinking I need to replace the flame sensor. Am I wrong? Or should I focus on the possible causes for the error 31?
Cool review.
Thanks Juan!
Good instruction.
Glad it was helpful!
You are awesome!
Glad to Help JJY!
Nice troubleshooting flow, Craig! You’re eliminating shotgunning 1 video at a time!
Thanks Jack!
On the pressure switch how we know where each hose goes to? top or bottom? from orange or yellow cable? will not matter if it gets reversed?
Thanks, my issue turned out to be plugged drain line for condensation. Removed end at blower and blew into it.
Number 8 , was my problem. I cleared out that port ,and now the furnace is working. It's almost like a calcification that build-up in the port yes ? I have a 80% furnace . Im a diy guy and Thanks Man!
Thanks Just Openers!
I came across one new bdp unit that the inducer molded plastic had a malformed seam near top of mating surfaces to heat exchanger... just enough leakage to operate pressure switch on the lower end of break, make point. I lost hair that day . ha.
NEVER stop learning!!
That third commonomoner looks phenomenomenal.
Had this issue about a month ago. It ended up being the fresh air pipe. The fresh air connected to the exhaust and I put a piece of screen over the exhaust because a bird had built a nest. Well the fresh air was pull heat because of screen. So I disconnected the 2 at the "Y" joint and ran fresh air separate. No more issues. Thanks for all of your videos
Also i already had a guy order the part, but wheres the best place to order carrier parts? my furnace is exactly the same as the video just standing up.
Good video, informative, dont forget sometimes its just a bad board in general. I had a Trane 80% yesterday no variable speed. Verified pressure switch was closing and remaining closed, no blockage, inducer was on, verified voltage and what inducer was pulling, and removed exhaust to bypass to see if it was blocked and if it would still happen, still getting “pressure switch error”. Ive also had a few furnace control boards immediately give a pressure switch code and the board itself not sending any voltage at all to inducer in the first place, I think you mentioned that. I was taught it is rarely the pressure switch thats actually “bad”
It never the pressure switch itself its usually the intake pipe and or the exhaust pipe is clogged. For me I can't unclog the exhaust pipe so I run with the tube off the pressure switch. Trane furnaces are living proof it doesn't pay to save a dollar.
@@parkerbohnn I have had a couple bad pressure switches that got permanently stuck before but very rare.
@@morganne23 I just run with the tube off the pressure switch. The pressure switch is good the motherboard just got replaced and the motor is a new replacement. The exhaust pipe is 25 feet long and there's some blockage at the furnace no way to get rid of the blockage at the furnace where the exhaust pipe meets the furnace. All the vents outside are clear. It's a piece of junk XR 90 Trane furnace from 2004.
@@parkerbohnn lol yeah I just had like 2 feet of birds nest in an exhaust and intake but the run was so long I could only hook the nest in the intake. I told them to get a duct cleaning company to get the exhaust cleaned out. Not to mention inside the pvc was under finished ceiling. Im not dealing with that. It was a 90% Lennox... the ones put in by contractors in new construction homes that usually end up leaking all over off the inducer.
How would you check to see if the vent isn't clogged in the middle of it?
We had AC installed a few weeks ago and starting 2 nights ago we're getting error 45 on a Rheem high efficiency, gas furnace, which means the low pressure switch is open when the inducer is at high speed. I/m not sure but it seems more than a coincidence that this started happening just a few weeks after the work was done.
They sent a tech out to check it, and he said the problem was probably the line clogged because when the furnace was installed (about 6 years ago), they (diff company) ported it out into the ground, which he said could get clogged. He cut the pipe so now it just empties out onto the ground and got it running again. A few hours after he left, it errored out again. The after hours guy came, fiddled around, checked the pressure, clogs etc...checked some of the connections and such, and got it going again saying that he thought maybe the previous error code hadn't been cleared out. It was running, he left, only to have it error out again after an hour or two. It will still run, but just blows cool air out the vents.
Anyone have any ideas about why it would run for a bit, then error out and shut off? I feel like some of the things covered in this video aren't the culprit becuase then it wouldn't run at all.
Thanks!
I have a Goodman 80% model Horizontally mounted unit in attic saying via the code that the pressure switch is stuck open. I could use some advice/input how to proceed and what to check next.
Note: Inducer motor works, but no ignitor turns on. (I replace the Flame detection sensor thinking that was the issue because last week the furnace did not work and then started working normally again for about 4 days. Now it's not working again and as mentioned blinking that the pressure switch is stuck open...Thanks...
Phil
NYC Area
You teach very well 👏👏👏👏.
But to be honest ;I dont like career furnace.
The parts are too expensive and many times my customers get panic with price of repaire.
The ECM ventor motor fails every 5 or 6 years ;
The condensation gets plugg so easy.
Can you show how to hook up the tool to read the pressure
Can a too low or too high gas pressure also cause this? I have a newer icp hvac and it throws 6 flashes, turns off once or twice a day i have to shut the power off wait few mins then turn it back on and it works again. Unit is about 1 year old. I have 2 of the same units 1 of them works normal
Can the two wires on the switch go on eatherside? I replaced the switch, but there was no writing or guidance on which wire went to which prong.
I'm stuck on error code 32. I think it may be a bad control board as I don't think 120v is going to the inducer motor. The molex connector where you have your leads stuck in is where to check for 120v, correct?
I was on the second floor of my home when I heard something abruptly spin down. Apon investigation I was getting the 3 light flashes then pause. I could feel cool air come through the vents but furnace wouldn't fire. Through troubleshooting I started blowing into all the tunes that were in the path of the pressure switch. I also blew into both ends of the pressure switch and I could hear it clicking. When the author of this video said a bird nest could fall down the pvc stack connected to the inducer motor I decided to check. I found a 3 inch piece of wood lodged down into the enducer motor. Once removed my furnace fired up.
It's the first "cold" day of the year and hot air was not coming out of the vents. Spent the good part of a day thinking my pressure switch was bad (31 error code) and tinkering with many things. Watched this video and decided what the hell, maybe item number 1 (clogged exhaust) is the culprit. Went outside to look - lo and behold a bird had built a nest in the exhaust pipe over the summer! Took a wire hanger apart and used it to pull lots of sticks and nest particles out of the exhaust pipe on the side of my house, then jacked the heat up using the Ecobee thermostat app on my phone, and glorious air started rushing out of the exhaust pipe. Went back inside and the house was warming up. Thanks so much for the tips! Is there some kind of screen one can put on the exhaust to stop this from happening, or would that be a bad idea? Dryer vents have those plastic mesh covers, it seems like this large pipe is just begging for a bird to nest here every year.
My problem is the exhaust pipe is clogged at the furnace and the pipe is 25 feet long so I can't unclog it.
Thanks for the detail. I have a trane xv95. After 3 seconds of the burner lighting it cuts off. Tries 2 more times then 2 red light flashes for retry lockout. Flame sensor has been cleaned and inducer motor was changed due to bad bearings. Funny thing is that if I pull the vacuum line from the burner box and slightly blow in it when the flame lights i can hear the pressure switch click and it'll stay running every time. It has a dual pressure switch setup. I think the switch is bad.
I have an XR 90 Trane and as everyone knows they're the worst furnace ever made. I just run with the hose taken off the pressure switch. The pressure switch works perfectly the motor is a brand new replacement and the intake and exhaust pipes are 25 feet long apiece so I can't suck out anything. So I run with the hose off the pressure switch.
Had one with the rubber hoses going to the condensate drain, relief port box the relief hose was clogged with grey like stones/dust, we PM the furnaces and flush out the box, the condensate box would flush out so to say, the rubber tubes are alittle hard when we always inspect them, then this one time I squeezed the lines like I do and the tube in that spot busted open and water went flowing. The relief tube and upper drain tube where clogged with this grey stuff and was eating out the rubber. So I always pull lines and check now.
The call was for water on floor. No sign of water any where, nothing in condensate drain and never leaked water when I was there. Also noticed alot of water coming out of exhaust, which I known something was not right. Fixed the tubes and perfect now.
Nice thanks Andy!
I had a problem with the pressure switch not opening after last cycle, I took switch off and had continuity between com & NO, I noticed a very small amount of water inside switch, after getting the water out and no continuity between terminals I reinstalled switch and The furnace started and ran fine. how would water get into switch?
My 2008 Ruud/Rheem Furnace Model: UGFD-07EMCKS , flashes 5 & 7, so code 57 High Pressure Switch (contacts open - inducer high ) and the heat wont stay on.
I cleaned the flame sensor, turned the power on , put the bottom furnace door on, and the furnace lighted and worked for about 5min , until i switched the fan to auto from on. And wont re light. Its a modular controlled furnace with a "v " wire and says you cant manually light the pilot. Not sure what to do about code 57.
You said there was a link to a video on fixing the condensate trap but I don't see it?
I added it in the description section, thanks- ua-cam.com/video/guf3TESb3V0/v-deo.html
The other tube coming from the pressure switch to the burner box is tripping my pressure switch code.then the heater just keeps short cycling then resets for an hour. What's going on please?
I got an error code of three flashes on my 12 year old Goodman furnace. Jumping the pressure switches did not work so I started testing them
, flame roll out sensors, etc. They all read good, the only thing left at that point was the circuit board. Replaced that an we are golden. Error codes are kind of a joke with furnaces. If the sequence of events are interrupted that is where the error code seems to flash to.
Error code 31 (Bryant Power Plus model 350) after running for 2 hours continues.. Any advice? Thanks
I had one last week that would crank up and run.but not quite fast enough. Low rpms
Nice, if the cap and voltage were good, sounds like the windings bad, thanks
So i had my inducer motor wheel inside break apart, i replaced it and a year later its doing it again, so i bit the bullet and ordered the whole new house unit with the motor and such....is this normal to happen?
The carrier inducer internal wheel typically doesn't break compared with other manufacturers. Is the wheel hitting water constantly in reference to how the furnace is pitched?
AC Service Tech LLC i dont believe so, its not like its particularly humid but its odd that just short ammout of time, i gota take it appart soon any way see the condition, overnight it just kept turning on, ran for a bit then off.
#11 it's a Carrier.
#12 it's a Goodman/Amana.
#13 PVC shavings from hack vent installs blocking the drain port.
#14 Bugs clogging the drain ports.
I once found three mice had somehow gotten into the inducer wheel and burned out themselves and the ID motor.
Thanks for sharing!
Ha ha nice! Thanks Tomon8tor!
Number 1 should be it a carrier,lol
cannot say I've seen a pvc shaving blockage, but it's sure is possible
I've seen a blockage due to a piece of fruit that dropped down the stack. That was interesting!
I have an American standard freedom 80 hat only furnace and I have the pressure switch error code. My furnace will start, the flames would come on and before the blower motor kicks in, the furnace starts cycling ( inducer motor stops then stops) then the code comes on. Help!!!
On an 80% unit, it is usually the hole where the tubing is connected at the inducer cloggs, the pressure switch is bad, or the exhaust pipe has a problem. It could also be a cracked heat exchanger but you may notice the flames rolling back if that was the case. I use my SDMN6 to check pressure switches. You can also read resistance across the switch with multimeter set on ohms to see if when it clicks closed if you are getting close to 0.0ohms of resistance. I just checked one on friday that was reading 300ohms so I knew the pressure switch was the problem, thanks
It’s not the pressure switch, I have two furnaces and I swapped the switches and the switch worked on the other furnace. Sometimes it will go as far as the flames coming on, and before the blower motor kicks in, it starts to cycle.
Thanks by the way🤙🏾
The drain tube coming out the bottom of the furnace at the pea trap
I took the water drain hose off and its sucking air in to it
Is that normal or should it be blowing out?
Yes, the water weight stops the suction and allows the water to flow through the trap and out of the furnace. You should fill the trap again with water after cleaning it, thanks!
I had a pressure switch open while inducer is on code. I don’t have a manometer but I checked the tube from switch to inducer it’s fine, I cleaned the port on the inducer that the tube connects to and it’s fine. I tested the pressure switch and it was working, I was getting 24 volts right before the inducer vacuumed it and closed the switch then goes down to 0. However at one point I started getting a low voltage at the pressure switch while inducer was on, I was seeing about 5 volts which was strange. Furthermore at another point the code was on and I was literally measuring the switch at that point and it was fine. I changed the pressure switch because it was fishy. However the problem happened again but then it stopped. My only other assumption would be the control board.
I have a 7-yr-old Goodman GKS9 gas furnace. It goes through one cycle (stays on as long as needed to reach temp setting) and shuts off, but when the temp drops it won't start the next cycle. Instead, the fan blows cool air and I get an error code 3-pressure switch stuck closed. I replaced the pressure switch-same behavior. I can turn the furnace off then on to start a cycle. Any thoughts on the cause?
Has the condensate drain and tubing been blown out or vacuumed? That will trip the pressure switch intermittently, thanks and lookm up "acservicetech clean furnace drain"
@@acservicetechchannel The drain and tubing were vacuumed; I watched your video and did it again (great video-very easy to understand), but still having the same issue.
You should be checking the pressure switch with a multimeter to see when it is closed or open and if 24v is crossing it. If there is no problem there and the board is saying that there is then the board would be at fault but you would really need to take your readings at the pressure switch first, thanks!
You didn’t mention if you take the burner door off and it fires up it’s the intake pipe
Ok
what would cause it to have a wrong pitch ???
That would be improper installation or sagging due to not enough supports, thanks
so the inducer comes on, the ignitor lights up, I hear the click on the gas value but the gas don't come out the value , the trouble code Is one blink for ( gas low, gas pressure, gas value , flame sensor) check the flame sensor and no curient is coming from the board , but I would think , no current would come until the furnace fire up . also I had water damage in the house that my have gotten in the furnace , do anyone have idea whtat the problem could be
You would need to read the voltage going to the gas valve and the gas pressure going in and out of the gas valve, thanks
Where is the adress to buy supply
Anyone else have issues with 90% Nordyne furnace tripping inducer limit all the time? Its my own furnace, not a customer. I have cleaned the secondary (even though it wasnt really dirty) the A-Coil, always change filters, slope on exhaust is fine, etc... it is not an under sized unit, nothing blocking any vents, blower wheel cleaned, the weird part is, the collector box stays pretty cool. Wondering if it is possible it is smashed behind the collection box. Also, read somewhere that restrictor plates inside the inducer on some have been known to fall off or rot. Not sure how true. Weird part is, once I cleaned the A-Coil, it stopped tripping the limit for the remainder of winter (it was January) once I cleaned it, it stopped and heated beautifully. Like 6 degrees in 40 minutes no tripping, then, following winter (this year) started in again) you cant tell me the A Coil re plugged that fast. Especially with how well I cleaned it.
My concord furnace will not run unless I tap the pressure switch with my finger. Then it will run until the thermostat gets to temperature. Then it won’t turn on again until I tap. Any ideas?
Spray the switch with WD-40.
was looking at your book and i don't see anything in the toc about furnace repair
Our present book is on refrigerant charging and troubleshooting but we presently do not have one out on electrical or furnaces yet, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel winter is coming 😄
I appreciate all the hard work you guys do on UA-cam publications I will pick up your full kit to support your channel