ECM X13 Blower Motor Troubleshooting!
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- Опубліковано 16 лют 2018
- In this HVAC ECM Blower Motor Video, I go over the Genteq X13 wiring connections, what they mean, how the motor works, and how to troubleshoot it simply. I go over the two parts, the module, and the motor, and show the resistance values of the motor. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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How much do those modules, purposely manufactured to be unrepairable, cost?
Thank you for the video! It helped me diagnose the issue and ensure that it was my motor. I am not a repair technician, but this saved me a lot of money!
Thanks teacher the more I watch you videos the more I comprehend . Keep going
Awesome, thanks Luis!
Thank you so much for all the videos! I've watched about 75% of them so far and have learned so much. You are a great teacher. I'm just about ready for my EPA license next month. And thanks for getting rid of the annoying intro that was in the older videos!
Thank you very much for your kind words! Yeah I really needed to do away with that intro, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel n mm o la mm lo
excellent , currently best hvac training videos , despite my experience I enjoy watching your videos that very informative .
Thank you very much Salvador Dali!
I was just going to say the same thing yes this 1 of the best training videos I have ever seen
Never even knew you could test ecm motors like that awesome
Yes absolutely, thanks!
You have the best HVAC troubleshooting videos.
Thanks a lot Elijah!
I had a ECM motor that stopped working after a burning smell spread through my entire house. I knew the motor went bad so I decided to open it up and the thermistor and capacitors were blown on the ECM controller. Simply de-soldered the bad ones and re-soldered new caps and a thermistor back in. Everything has been working great for over 2 years. New motor was $1200, my work and replacement parts for $37 bucks.....Great video, wish I would have seen it a couple years ago.
Can I Change a 230 volt GE ECM Motor to a 115 / 230 ? ( Without or with ) a different module
@@billetwilson9204 Not sure on that one.
Had the same smell last night couldn't breath for a few mins
@@billetwilson9204 Why?
I am thinking about doing this, were the capacitors buried in waterproofing material? How did you get them out?
I’m very happy to watch your video. Thank goodness!
I bought a Genteq 5SBA39FLP8013 ECM blower motor to replace the Broad Ocean motor which stopped working in my air handler. The Genteq is an X13 with 5 speed taps as shown in the video. I decided to test it before going to the trouble of mounting it in the air handler. I laid it on its side next to the air handler and connected the wiring. The thermostat was set to fan only. When I turned on the power the shaft began to spin for about 1 second and shut off and then a few seconds later it came back on and shut off and continued this pattern until the power was shut off. My neighbor's son in law is a HVAC technician, so I called him and explained the problem. He told me that the motor detects the load that is on it and adjusts for that load to maintain a steady speed. It needs to have the blower wheel on it and be mounted in the blower housing in order to detect a load. I installed it in the air handler and it works perfectly. I don't know why this information is not in the video and why the motor in the video is not showing this problem.
Did you have to replace anything to fix your issue?
@@Brian-vl3ng I replaced the blower motor only, nothing else and no modifications were done.
@@Armand9100 blower motor with with a module? This was the fix for you?
@@Brian-vl3ng Yes, the module is attached to the motor.
@@Armand9100 can I send you a video of the symptom
Very nice .always a nice job from ac service tech! Thank you!
Thanks a lot Lance!
Your videos are very informative and detailed. So glad I found your channel. I graduated from the local community college with an associate degree in hvac and I m 2 years in the trade working my way up the become a technician. So many bad techs out there..I m pretty sure they could learn a thing or 2 from your videos. Thanks for the upload sir, i am subscribing to your channel
Thank you very much Cesare, I am glad they helped!
Awesome video! Thanks very explanatory.
Thanks Robert!
Very good information AC
Thanks Channel Cat Chaser!
Great video, thank you!
Glad to help Michael!
Great work , Awesome Tech
Thanks Wise Arcadian!
Great video. Must give the module a cooling period, after disconnect, its been known to give you a respectable shock.
Absolutely correct and I should have said that too. Thanks for adding it to the comment section!
Excellent video
Thanks Tank!
Nice quick and to the point
Thanks a lot Ricky!
You're awesome man.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the info!!🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful thanks !
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the great detailed video. There are three wires that go from the module to the motor. What's the pinout for the three pins inside the enclosure?
Thanks for this video. Good information.
Hey Todd, Thanks alot! In Patreon.com/acservicetech, you are in the $1 level but pledging $3 per video. I would like you to be able to get access to the community level posts if you can just keep your support the same but just move yourself into the Community level. If you have any problems just let me know, thanks Todd!
I got that done with no problem. Thanks for all the videos. Again, I am not employed in the trade, but want to be able to help others when I can.
Very informative thanks.
Thanks Angel!
How did you get 28VAC? Is it a transformer based AC power supply on the right hand side of the screen?
Thank you very much that help me a lot keep going
Thanks Victor!
All of this good info and it neglects to point out why there are two wires hooked to my speed connections. Supposedly I just need to move a wire to increase the speed. Great I know one through five are the speed levels. I have no idea how they're actually set up or how they can be changed.
Thanks for the info
Thanks Keith!
I did exactly as the video described to an x13 120 volt 3/4 horse motor. In all 5 positions the motor rotates but it pulses. It's not a steady rpm. The motor itself checks out ok. Do I have a bad module? Thanks for the video.
Craig, I have a question about further testing an x13 motor module. If I power an X13 module with 240v and send 24vac to each spd tap. (one at a time) Then attach my meter to the power out set to DC voltage to see if power is being sent to the windings. Is this in your opinion a valid test to verify module is indeed good.
Thumbs up!!!!
Thanks Steven!
Is it true that the x13 the ECM module should never be replaced? Im a student and my instructor indicated to replace both never just one or the other. Please share your thoughts. Thank you
simple , rápido y perfectamente explicado ...Videos come este son los que se agradecen !!!
Thanks Gustavo!
Disculpa brother hay alguno que este traducido o con subtítulos ?
Alguien sabe si hay uno en español
Thank you
Great video! So one can only replace the module right?
Hi, I'm troubleshooting my A/H blower motor that stop working. I notice that when I'm taking volts readings the C common is not showing 24v but it shows 24v on the bottom pins when fan switch is on the on position. My question is does the C common is supposed to be hot all the time?
what kind of electrical box and transformer did you use for this homemade tester and also what kind of switch did you use, I am trying to make myself one thanks!!!
Your videos are extremely informative. I would like you to PLEASE do a video on how to remove/change slanted coils. I have searched and searched, but cannot find any information on slanted coils. Again. thank you for all the knowledge you have shared with us new technicians.
Thank you for letting me know what you would like to see!
Good video
Thanks Kenny W!
good stuff! ty
Thanks Jason!
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Can I rig a 110 extension cord to the ecm and plug it in a wall socket with a junction box that splits off to 24v
had this issue today that i just could not figure out what was wrong with a new x13 motor....old one was rocking back and forth with constant 240v and 24v (yes motor was the right voltage)...so went and got a new one and tested it before installing it to the squirrel cage....new motor would ramp up and down every 10 seconds so i thought maybe i had a defective motor so i got another one....it was doing the same thing...any suggestions for future reference?
HELP! I have an ECM powered Furnace/AC unit that has a relay on the control board that is clicking uncontrollably. The unit is set to Cooling and it seems anytime the ECM motor is changing speeds from normal speed to super high speeds the control board relay goes crazy! It literally clicks on and off every second repeatedly until the speed of the fan settles. It's a Ducane branded unit with a very similar motor like the one seen in this video. Any ideas where the bad signal would be coming from that I need to check? Everything is still functioning properly right now, but I know if it keeps up with this clicking for a long period of time, either the relay is going to die or something else is going to happen. Any tips would be much appreciated! Not much online about clicking relays on furnace control boards...
Thank you for the great detailed video. How can I get the actual diagram of the motor?, I am a HVAC tech and always like to see more details...
Lot simpler than the ECM 2.3 motor. I know the PSC motors very well and getting into fixing and using the ECM motors I took a ECM 2.3 blower out of a heat pump with a bad water cooled condenser that was given to me for salvage.
Yes for sure, much simpler and there are rescue ecms now for replacing motors with 24v control voltages such as the x-13 now, thanks
thank you ...
Thanks Pei Broker!
Great video. I have a question. I know my module I troubleshoot my module and the problem is that my motor stays on all the time. I event removed the 28v input signal from the speed tap and motor still stays on. It stays on even if I turn off AC from thermostat. To turn it off I have to turn off the breaker.
I open the module and I can’t seem to tell which part on the module is bad so I can replace. All capacitor and transistor looks good visually. I’ll appreciate any help.
That would be a module problem. Unfortunately the module needs to be replaced, thanks!
AC Service Tech LLC thanks
@@acservicetechchannel Same problem, runs continuously. For fun I cut the green wire (fan only) and measured the voltage on each end. The end going to the thermostat read zero volts (as expected). The end going to the fan read 4.5 volts. I suspect something inside the module is shorted to the green. I might try to inspect the module but they are predicting mid-90s for the next week. Also, some people prefer to run the fan continuously, but not me.
Hey I just replaced a module. Do you recommend a zebra surge protector and do you have any videos on this? I think the cause of the module was power surges. @acservicetech
They seem to add extra protection so that would be good, thanks
I been fighting a unit that keeps eating the Blower relays up..it’s low voltage relays but they just quit..they are going to a x13 blower motor...I know amps can eat them up but how is 24v doing it..thanks
I know the video is old, but I’m troubleshooting the blower motor on my unit now. I need to do the checks you discussed in this video. I did the hand test and cannot spin the shaft freely. It is hard to turn. When I took the shaft out, the bearings seem to spin freely but the permanent magnet rotor spins rough when it is inserted. I noticed a lot of black residue in the house in where the magnet rotor spins. I wonder if I should replace the bearings and clean the housing from debris?
Thx
Great teaching video. Well explained. My question is what determines the speed of the motor? Preprogramed into it or a differential duct air sensor?
I mean, if the circulating fan motor is turning but at a constant slow speed when it should rather be high speed, does that mean a control board issue or some airflow sensor issue?
Check your dip switches on the control board. They enable adjustment of different speeds.
How do you get 24 volts out of both sides of the transformer? or explain how the module connects the 24 volt taps, please
I had an x13. Lower running constantly. Changed out the blower module and it has worked fine for about 2-3 weeks. Now it is running constantly again. Could there be an underlying issue causing the modules to go bad, or is it likely I got another bad module?
I replaced my Lennox original x13 motor with a gentec off Amazon, the new one works fine, it seems to run slightly faster than the original motor, I no longer have the fan shutoff delay however. Now when the compressor shuts off the fan shuts off immediately. Is there anyway to have the fan delay function again? Should I switch the high and medium high wires at the 24 signal wires? It’s been a while since I did it and my home is cooling fine otherwise now.
I installed a gentec 1/2 hp 230 volt motor
RHLL-HM382IJA x13 motor. When it calls for heat the blower doesn't turn on even though the thermostat says "fan on". If I switch from "automatic" to "on" on the thermostat then it runs, but now I have to do this manually. I changed the circuit board, transformer and thermostat and still have this problem.
How the signal TAPs are program? Are the L and N energized during tap programming?
Just the 24v connections are programmed. The manufacturer will choose which taps to program at whcih speed, thanks
Got one where the blower runs constantly. Unhook g from tstat still runs. Any time it has power on fan runs on high speed. Have to kill power to shut it off. Not sure if its module or control board but was installed in new construction..
So when heat was operational it sucked up fine dust from sheetrock and flooring dust. Not sure if that was what done it but certainly wasnt beneficial
Can I pull 24v from common on motor to t-stat wire to power Wi-Fi thermostat???
Are the 1/2 HP and 3/4 HP modules of a X13 motor interchangeable?
Probably not because of the capacitor rating
If the motor is good and module is bad what should we do can we just buy a module for low voltage ? Please advice
Thank again Craig. One question. Can you test a 3/4 HP motor with a 1 HP ECM bell?
You can use it for testing the motor very briefly but I would not leave it on. Most of the time, the actual motor is fine and the module is the problem though.
There are no external capacitors with this motor? My motor runs fine if it gets kicked off. Sometimes it doesn't and sounds like it is running slowly. I currently have the fan on continuously until I can tear into it. If sometimes the motor won't get started, does it sound like one of the capacitors in the module is bad? Thanks
If it doesn't shut off, you would need to check the 24v signal to see if you are accidentally sending 24v to the g terminal first, thanks!
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It's posible install a regular speed motor in a air handler with a variable speeds motor (ecm motor)?
Yes as long as it is not connected to a vrf compressor, thanks!
Depends on the make of the unit, etc, might have to add additional relay, go back to basics
I had a bad X-13 motor, but it was the bearing, I had ordered bearings. When my BIL heard, he said forget that, I have so many X-13 motors go bad, I just replace them with a capacitor type motor, and he did that. I to this day don't know if that was a good idea. but it has been working fine for a year. I will add, the original motor went bad, it was replaced under warranty, then about 3 years later the bearing in the replacement motor started make lots of noise. As a side note, If this were my job and troubleshooting the motor is required as you allude to at 4:20, I would build a jig with a 24V source, a 5 position switch and three of the common motor connectors with 3 feet of wire to plug into the motors. So then you just disconnect your motor connectors, plug in your jig connector, plug in your AC cord and then switch slowly through the 5 speeds, testing for any problem. Rethink, You might need a 10 position switch for an off time between each test, Off, test 1, off, test 2, off, test 3, etc. That said, I suspect once you have seen 5 or 6, you know before you do much testing, but that my input. Do you think a Jig would be useful for a servicing tech?
Would be nice when you need it, but extra stuff in truck and such. Probably quicker to just poke at it with multimeter, but if you dont mind always having that rig on hand sure thing
I haven't heard from any Nerd service techs with OCD, make your own path and think outside the box, it's saved my customers much money. Not ME! I started 40 years ago, everything was straight forward, worked and lasted many years. Government, corporation greed changed all that. Mexico and China reaped the harvest, we got thrown under the bus. Corrupt politicians on steroids. That's why Trump is President, makes sense why they want him to go away ASAP. Just Saying, because it's true.
I have a question. Is there any way to bypass this blower motor?
I checked the resistance of the OBB wires of the motor and it floated between 14 and 12 ohms on all of them. Is this normal?
The x13 blower (1/3 HP) motor on my York air handler doesn't run properly. The motor starts and moves few steps (couple degrees) than stops momentarily and continues in same fashion without achieving any speed. How I can trouble shoot and what may the cause?
Is it possible to run x 13 with vfd controller? Of course I need to take the main capacitors n controller attached to x 13 and connect directly 3 phase off the motor with vfd. Would that spin the motor??? Ty
That is how the 3 phase motor is built to run, as a vfd, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel -
Is x 13 motor winding wye or delta configuration? Ty
I have a question. I am testing an x13. The motor does not blow air but it does turn slowly. I have 230 volts, and i have 26 volts between the low voltage common and only 1 of the speed control wires. It happens to be orange and in the #2 spot of the motor.
The ac was set at run, cool. The motor was spinning but really slowly. I turned the unit on to fan only. The motor is still spinning slowly, not enough to push air.
I am thinking the ecm is bad because the motor still spins on its own. Local hvac wants 2k to fix it. They orginally diagnosed it.
I pulled the motor out and removed the module. I tested the 3 leads of the motor for continuity.
My meter reads 1. At rest, reads 0 when the meters leads are touched together. When testing the 3 leads on the motor they all read 0. I am under the impression that this means the motor is bad. I get no continuity when testing a motor lead to the case of the motor.
My understanding of motors is that a winding has over heated, or something, and is in direct contact with the other windings.
Is my diagnosis that the motor is bad correct? How would it be able to still spin approx 30rpm?
I ordered a new motor/ ecm.
Any other thoughts?
Well, 1hp motors typically read around 5ohms a pair and 1/2hp seem to read around 12ohms. These are just rough numbers I am used to seeing, thanks
after determining that the windings have continuity , you only have to check one to ground.
what brand is your 24v transformer?
On the resistance values for the motor: I'm getting 5.8-6.0 between R and Y, 5.8-6.0 between R and B, but only 3.9-4.0 between B and Y. Is this enough variance to deem this motor bad? Is this issue repairable? $360 motor is not a cheap replacement part.. Motor will engage, do about 5 rotations, then cut off and restart. Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions in getting this issue resolved.
The different resistance suggests the one motor winding is partly shorted. The controller doing 5 revs is a typical behavior when the controller has failed. So you might have two problems.
For anyone who needs help, I had the exact same symptoms as above and I had to replace moter/controller which resolved my issue.
great video!! I have a question: my motor blower only runs at the lowest speed and after a while stops.
What kind of blower motor is it, shaded pole, psc, ecm variable speed, or just ecm, thanks
Is variable 5SME39HL
Mine does the same or wont even kick on
What do you use as the 24V transformer? AC or DC? Amps?
a 30 or 40va 120v to 24v AC Transformer, thanks
My motor when activated is turning super slow (no air flow) and other times it'll be normal speed (normal air flow) Is this mean a bad module. All checks are good though.
Thanks
Hello. Great video.
What could be wrong with X13 if the motor just spin in low speed? It would be possible to repair it?
Everything seems to be normal from the control.
Did you test the motor by itself with a megger or a multimeter? The ohm values should match closely for all three pairs. If not the motor then the module is bad, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel hello. The resistance of the coils of the motor seems to be fine. The multimetro shows 12ohm between them
What was the issue, module or motor?
@@acservicetechchannel Transformer is getting 240v and 27-28v out to run terminal.
Motor is getting 120vx2 and 27v to run.
Motor is solid.
Symptoms
My motor when activated is turning super slow (no air flow) and other times it'll be normal speed (normal air flow) Is this mean a bad module. Please help! Lol
Thanks
Exelente,,,I have litle cuestión,,,,can I check this motor insulation test whit the Meger 3 phase to ground ?
Remove the electronic module and yes the megger can be used to test the insulation level, thanks
could you do some videos on water source heat pumps? great video by the way
Thanks Oscar, if I am on service call with the right customer, I will shoot a video, thanks!
you're awesome dude
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Oscar are you talking paypal.me/acservicetech or patreon.com/acservicetech ?
Oscar that is weird. I am sorry. I know someone just joined two days ago. I am not sure why it is not working. Are you getting a message that I can send to Patreon in order to ask them what the problem is? Thanks
AC Service Tech LLC what is the problem if the fan turns on once breakers are turned back on and then shuts off? Have a Trane ECM unit as well and just put a new capacitor in and compressor comes on the fan just won’t stay on.
Low voltage issue . Not sending signal
I didn't test my motor yet but I just want to ask my blower turns on but at slow speed sometimes try to go faster but it goes back to slow would this be an indication that the motor is bad or the module ?
What was your issue? Module or motor
So if the motor works with the techmate pro does that mean the module is bad?
This is the X-13 and is not variable but is ecm. You can check this one by applying 24v to it on the different speeds as shown in the video or by measuring the 24v going to it during normal operation, thanks
So what do i do if my motor is spinning at all times? even without the control wires
My blower motor is surging, with it on the motor turns on and off then after turning it off and letting it sit for a few hours it starts working again. It’s also a x13. Any suggestions?
Is it possible that part of the duct is collapsed or filter clogged solid? If not, then the module may not be reading torque valves correctly, thanks
Is the fan relay built into the motor itself. My blower motor keeps running even when the low voltage is disconnected. Thanks
The hub turns the motor on when the low voltage signal for the certain speed is present. The motor hub is bad.
AC Service Tech LLC Thank you!!!
I believe I may be in the same situation and hoped you could elaborate. My X13 Motor will also not shut off, in fact when I remove the low voltage wires completely the motor defaults to blowing at it's highest setting. I saw the answer was the motor hub but what exactly does that mean?
Side note I'm going to be taking it apart and following the steps in the video.
@@acservicetechchannelseeing several people about them staying locked on high without low voltage, odd. Wonder how that happens
@@mbburry4759 As posted above and pasted here:
Same problem, runs continuously. For fun I cut the green wire (fan
only) and measured the voltage on each end. The end going to the
thermostat read zero volts (as expected). The end going to the fan read
4.5 volts. I suspect something inside the module is shorted to the
green. I might try to inspect the module but they are predicting
mid-90s for the next week. Also, some people prefer to run the fan
continuously, but not me.
👍
Hello
I have a Trane A/C unit with an air handler model 4FWHF030A1000B.
The problem that I’m having is that on shutting off, the air handler shuts off and then seconds later the air handler fan briefly turns back on and a few seconds later goes off. This on and off cycling continues for as many as 13 cycles, Sometimes it is less than 13 cycles and then the unit stays off until there is a demand for additional cooling. As the desired temperature is achieved the on and off cycling repeats itself.
I have tried to replace the thermostat, no change.
I found that the evaporator coils were dirty, I completely cleaned the coils inside and out.
I check the wiring from the thermostat and found that if is OK as per wiring diagram on the air handler.
When the fan was running I removed the thermostat face but the fan kept running.
The AC compressor doesn't start up during the short bursts cycles.
It seems that before, the off period during the bursts would increase in duration as the number of cycles increased. Now it seems to be the same amount of time for the off cycles, The on cycles continue to be for a few seconds.
Do you know where I may purchase troubleshooting information to identify the component/s that is causing this problem?
What ever happened with your issue? Seems like the guy doesn't come back to answer these, apparently. But he does have a business to run. I have this same issue going on and had removed my "smart thermostat" as I thought that might be it and put the original on (HVAC system is only 5 years on) and did same thing. Even with green wire removed, the blower fan still ran till the breaker was turned off. It does its thing very erratically. I hear this is a common issue with these. I ordered a new control board for $50 shipped and will swap out to see. If continues, motor will be replaced with new I guess.
we have changed the blower motor however the fan does not turn off... is this a blower motor issue of something else
Im getting 27.4.volts coming in on the speed tap, too high?
That's correct. It will be anywhere from 24 to 29 volts
Aren't those five speeds: high, med-high, med, med-low, low? And cant you change between any for desired cfm?
Yes and if you get lucky, when the motor wont run on medium high for example, it may run on high, seen it happen. The rip off is it's usually one of the capacitors in the module, a $3 part, so our cost is $500 for a new one? Perfect, AFTA NAFTA politics
What causes when motor continuously runs?
Do these motors need to be programmed? I put a new one in and it dident work. Called a company out to look at it and they told me it needed to be programmed? I ordered mine from HD Supply.
Do you know the model you ordered? Some can be programmed by the distributor but they already have a preset program, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel model is 5SME390X
That was just the motor, sorry I meant the module. Is this a carrier or evergreen?
any idea why we are having so much trouble with these motors failing?
Low airflow problems kill them due to the increase in amperage to keep up on the torque compared to psc motors just free spin and draw less amperage. Voltage spikes also kill the variable and ecm motors. Now I am trying to focus on just selling the psc or ecm motors because we have easy less expensive replacements for them compared to variable speed motors that have to be oem, thanks
They're actually a cheap offshore non-quality, built in India and China using consumer grade electronics. Not at all suitable for the reliability demands of vibration and heat.
These companies are making these ecm motors very expensive right now..just the module alone cost $200-$300 compared to the old blower motors that cost 100-150..
Yes. The cost of the new module voids your cost in energy savings.
I had one yesterday that was stuck on even when I took the 24 volts away from it, it was a friend so instead of getting a new expensive motor I just put in a relay for heat and a relay for cool, I just broke one leg of the 220
That is an odd one you found, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel that's why I told you about it I have never seen that happen before I was wondering if you had
@@danpmatz I have the same issue, with all the 24V taps disconnected, the motor still runs. I have not found any video to address this problem. My air handler blower now runs continuously. I have to turn the breaker off to stop the blower.( I have taken off my room thermostat.) I have measured the voltage of the taps while 240V connected and blower running. All taps voltages 0 to 2.5 V. I will also use separate relays to activate on heat and cooling.
@@drsharonmwashington7447 yeah it was for a friend of mine so I was trying to save the money I figured $15 in relays that I had with me instead of a new motor
I have the same problem. If I change the blower motor will that fix the problem?
My friend has that blower. It’s currently on my bench. I checked the motor module separated to make sure the motor wasn’t grounded. It’s good. Under the foam I suspect there are screws that will let you pull out that foam and board. It would be easy to test the caps , which are probably bad. 380 for just the module. It was cheaper just to put in a single speed motor. What I’d like to know is could you put power to the motor plug and make it work without the module. I’m not an ac tech just someone who’s able to fix stuff. I haven’t been beat by an ac system yet.
No, you can't just apply power to the motor windings. The motor is a 3-phase design, and the controller is essentially a VFD (variable frequency drive) that synthesizes 3-phase power from the single-phase power input. So no way to bypass the electronics or hot-wire the motor.
Richard Kinch that’s to bad. I found one hidden screw in the module but the board wouldn’t come out. I could probably find the bad part if I could get it out.
@@Imwright720 The foam is a permanent potting compound that you can't remove without destroying the electronics. So these modules are impossible to diagnose much less repair. It's tragic, because they are simple enough that the boards could be repaired, if only they were not potted. So for example you can't test or replace the electrolytic capacitors, which would typically be a failure candidate that's easily fixed.
I removed most of the foam without to much problem. I believe they also glued the board in. Even with the 3 screws gone it doesn’t budge from anywhere. That tells me it’s also adhered to the body
Thanks!