Great video . I think you hit the nail on the head and for your needs banana plugs makes sense . I think for the majority of the people it doesn't and can be problematic . Keep it simple stupid ( Kiss ) many have heard of the KISS system . Just keep it simple . Banana plugs seem simple until they're not . I found two basic types those with rotating plug and those without . Deep bass notes on a rotating plugs are known to create static on the speaker side of the connection non rotating plugs often loosen up after a while and cause static. The static is like micro arcing during deep bass notes . Locking plugs should eliminate or minimalize this arcing . What ends up happening is the connectors internally start to vibrate loose and cause issues . Those little tiny screws vibrate loose and the wires are known to pull straight out . On a multi channel system you can loose a connection and not notice it for a while . If both plugs slip out and start touching each other after awhile could eventually short out your expensive amplifier . off topic the early eighties is when the crazy train for cables and wires took off . Mostly in car audio at first then it transitioned heavily in to home audio . It made sense in Car audio because of the competitions . You had to squeeze that last drop of performance out of a system . You had to get the best head unit to amp signal and the best amp to speaker power . You were limited by power class . Before the eighties you just had to have reliable interconnections and wires . The 1970's argument was more like which wire is better? 22 gauge or 18 gauge and then those crazy 16 gauge people had to come in talking all that trash . If they only knew the crazy train would involve silver wire and carbon embedded Harry Potter dust ?
I've only seen a few of your videos but enjoy the information. Seems like your always helping someone; you got some credits on the other side just waiting for you someday. Keep being you and doing these videos.
Hey Youth Man what about using some wire ferrules! that will solve both problems you won't lose the screws and the thickness of the wire won't be as much of a problem. Affordable and cheap and improve connection and durability of the cable! I use them on all my car audio amp install where vibration is more of an issue never had a loose connection once I started using them!😃
Hey Youthman, I have a word of warning for you and your viewers. One thing that I have come across when shopping speaker wire, especially 12GA and lower, when bargain price shopping is that you REALLY need to watch what you buy. Copper is expensive, and in the thick gauge wire in particular sellers will try to trick you into buying CCA! CCA is Copper Clad Aluminum and is a far inferior product for transmission of audio since it is really just aluminum wire with a thin copper plating. I really haven't seen CCA in anything above 12ga but please take a second in your videos when dealing with speaker wire to warn your viewers against this pitfall as I bet many people aren't aware that something like this even exists. Also when you spend just a bit more on speaker wire you are ensured to get a TRUE 12ga thickness, instead of a really thick jacket hiding some actually 14ga or 16ga wire beneath. Keep up the great content!
@@Youthman well they are and they are not. They are required to disclose that it is not pure copper, but they get tricky and try to disguise the fact with things like small font, or acronyms like CCA that don't mean anything to many people who don't know what to look out for.
@@Youthman Here is a perfect example of 12 ga CCA hiding 12AWG Speaker Wire, GearIT Pro Series 12 AWG Gauge Speaker Wire Cable (50 Feet / 15.24 Meters) Great Use for Home Theater Speakers and Car Speakers Black www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWYKF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z3VOBbH13V1SX
one q about those lock-banana plugs... what part of the wire have to touch the which part of the plug to get the best connection? Does both srews have to touch the bare wire or does it just have to touch the inner most part of the plug?
Easiest way to remove those plugs without a screwdriver or removing the jumper, is to just unscrew the binding post all the way and it comes out with it. Pops right out and you just screw it right back on. You only need to unscrew one binding post from negative and positive. The second red and black still hold the jumper.
Hi Kevin, I just tried unscrewing the binding post from my Klipsch RF7 III and the Paradigm 600C and when they get to the top, they stop unscrewing. I applied a descent amount of force and it did not unscrew all the way. I don’t want to force t. Screwdriver method works easily enough for me
Youthman. Sorry it didn’t work on those speakers. It worked on my old Polk speakers. I have svs ultra fronts, center, bipole surrounds and elevations. As you know, they don’t have plugs. Worth a try bud. Thanks for the info.
Another great video Sir. Love the relationship and hobby that you and your son share. Based on the great deals and even the free banana plugs, it is clear that you and your family are reaping what you are sowing. Keep those videos coming...!
Cool. I think they were the first brand I ever bought. My only issue with them is over time they became loose and I would have to bend out the post to make them stay in.
@@Youthman I'm using the Nakamichis - since they rarely get disconnected, I haven't had the issue with their coming loose. BTW, one of the Sewell varieties appear to be identical to the Nakamichis.
Ever think about using 4mm banana plugs that you solder on, instead of set screws? I come from a RC hobby background, so soldering is life! We use them for direct connection to the lipo batteries!
@@Youthman I guess you could say that, but I think with most things, only way to truly learn, is by doing! Like most things, until you try, you just don't know, but eigther way, if you mess up, all you can do, is try again! Practice makes perfect! You'll pick it up in a few months, then next thing you know, that your solder joints look better than factory!
@@Youthman The biggest mistake I see when people use solder is that they heat the solder itself, rather than the joint. This creates what is known as a cold-solder joint. I learned to solder in order to build my Hafler DH-110 and DH-220 kits. It really wasn't too difficult to master.
Sewell plug tines will lose their memory and become loose after inserting and removing, you will eventually have to insert narrow blade to expand tines.
I used some very similar bananas of that design. That's sort of copy of an older WBT design. However I believe WBT could be using better metal. I am not familiar with GLS plugs but the ones I had were made of some brittle metal. Once they were tighten in binding posts of B&W 801 speakers (that have some cavity inside a hole) banana slit tip elements got permanently deformed. Then cable got pulled by accident and some of pieces at tips just cracked and broke off.
I was hoping for a more positive review of the GLS plugs. I have had my eye on them because of the large barrel size and of course the locking feature. I am using 14/4 cable and twisting pairs to make 11awg and thought they would be perfect for that application. If there are problems locking them into place for a secure connection, then I am not so sure about them. Anyways, thanks for the videos and honest reviews!
Yeah, I’m very surprised. I was able to get the one in the video to “lock” securely but some of the others not so much. I’ll try all of them to see if it’s a few or majority that have the issue.
Ok so most of them I can get right, but a few get pretty tight but I can still pull them out of the binding post without unlocking them. If I need to buy more for myself, I’ll likely buy the Media Bridge I linked to in the description as they look very similar to the Monster but are WAY cheaper and they have awesome reviews.
I was just about to suggest to bend the wire double, but then you did it for me :-) I use 11 AWG, actually 4 mm2, that we get in Europe at least. Just a bit thicker but, I still bend the wire double which makes it about 8 AWG or 8 mm2.
Great video again man! Great looking banana plugs, great price point, clicked on the link. Think that I might have to replace some of mine. Great job on the tutorial part on how to use them. FYI beautiful center channel speaker!
Hello from Illinois I am new to your UA-cam channel and I must say your info is spot on!! And I enjoy your unboxing and setup so thanks again. from Big D..
Clamping stranded wire with a set screw without any metal plate inbetween does not provide a reliable connection. The solution could be to use some crimp type ferrules on the wire ends or to tin wire ends.
I've had 3 or 4 different brands of banana plugs pull apart - the ' banana' part staying stuck in the socket, just pulled out of the main plug part ( connection to wire.) seems the 'banana ' part is just a press fit, not secure. this is for the common 6 for $ 20. variety.
Awesome! Let me know how you like it once you get it setup. 10 years ago, that was the model I was drooling over when I was building my theater. It’s a beast
Do I have to use the calibration mic that came with my Onkyo? I record music and have all types of mics. I’m guessing the receiver mic is a condenser mic and is multidirectional, which I have several condenser mics. I also have acoustic mics. The only reason I’m asking and haven’t tried it, is because I don’t have a mic cable with a headphone jack on the other end, just didn’t want to have to buy one if I don’t need to.
You can try with onkyo first and than with your microphone and compare but if you have good hearing you can adjust without any microphone by yourself like I do 👊
I gotcha. Strangely, when I clicked on the time stamp on my phone, it took me to a point in the video that was not talking about the tabs. But I just clicked on it on my computer and it took me right to it. That's why I was wondering what you learned. I didn't know that for MANY years as well. I used to think certain speakers just didn't accept banana plugs. LOL
@@Youthman no, I had to hold the bottom of the plug to get it to expand though.they we're just spinning and not expanding properly. But after I figured it out they're snug and don't come out
For some reason I can not get Atmos to play on the 1120. I do love the sound of this thing however it’s not the easiest setup. It becomes extra hard because I do not own a windows computer.
I’m there with you Chris. It sounds amazing, is extremely versatile and powerful, but I too find it not super user friendly. And without a windows computer, you don’t have all of the features and options available.
Update: after talking to Anthem I realized I was not on the newest firmware for the 1120. Once I updated to the newest it worked GREAT! They emailed me back with in 24 hours and I’m sure I could have called and gotten someone even quicker. This thing definitely sounds amazing!! Can’t wait to hear your opinion on it compared to the others your reviewing.
Hey Youthman, Thanks for the video. I've considered banana plugs, but like anything else, why add induction? Why not just use the wire straight into the source? Thanks,
Youthman's reply is spot on. The banana plugs don't add any induction that you can hear but are they ever handy if you move speakers in and out of the rotation like I do! First 3.1, then 5.1, then swap center speakers, it just goes on and on. I think banana plugs are most handy on the amp end where space is cramped and you often have to insert speaker wire while looking at the back of the AVR upside down, sideways and backwards. That's when they are worth the price of admission!
Hopefully you realize the only time you need large gauge wire is for long runs (like over 30 feet). Although 16 gauge is more than adequate, I typically buy 14 gauge
Correct...that isn’t the center we bought for Joes System. Paradigm sent me the 600C and 800F speakers to review. Here is the system we bought for Joe for $400 - ua-cam.com/video/2jngd_lug3g/v-deo.html
There is no macro function. The camera I had at the time I made this video didn’t autofocus for video so as I moved towards they camera, it was no longer in focus. Now that I have a new camera, maybe I’ll redo the video. 👍
If you really love banana plugs, it makes sense to talk about quality, what are they made off, copper/metal/aluminium-core because this is what really matter and you talk all the time about convenience. Hi-quality plugs are made out off copper alloy. It is all about conductivity! Convenience is secondary
Sorry but why you put on an ,,expansive,, ,,good cable,, and leave the cheap bridges ? When you Single wiring than put some cable (for exampl. same as the speaker connection cable) between it instead the cheap original bridges... even if its sounds the same, for me its the better way
I know guys that make their own jumpers as well and there’s nothing wrong with that. I guess my question if there is no audible benefit, how is it the better way? My thinking is if it doesn’t improve the sound and if you never see it, there isn’t any reason for me to use speaker wire instead of the stock jumpers.
That is by far the best video I've ever seen on putting the GLS locking plugs together and explaining how they work. Bravo!
Wow, thank you for the compliment.
The way you wire a plug with two screws ,, top screw holds wire bottom srcrew holds plastic / teflon outercaseing ....
Great video .
I think you hit the nail on the head and for your needs banana plugs makes sense . I think for the majority of the people it doesn't and can be problematic . Keep it simple stupid ( Kiss ) many have heard of the KISS system . Just keep it simple . Banana plugs seem simple until they're not . I found two basic types those with rotating plug and those without . Deep bass notes on a rotating plugs are known to create static on the speaker side of the connection non rotating plugs often loosen up after a while and cause static. The static is like micro arcing during deep bass notes . Locking plugs should eliminate or minimalize this arcing . What ends up happening is the connectors internally start to vibrate loose and cause issues . Those little tiny screws vibrate loose and the wires are known to pull straight out .
On a multi channel system you can loose a connection and not notice it for a while . If both plugs slip out and start touching each other after awhile could eventually short out your expensive amplifier .
off topic the early eighties is when the crazy train for cables and wires took off . Mostly in car audio at first then it transitioned heavily in to home audio . It made sense in Car audio because of the competitions . You had to squeeze that last drop of performance out of a system . You had to get the best head unit to amp signal and the best amp to speaker power . You were limited by power class . Before the eighties you just had to have reliable interconnections and wires . The 1970's argument was more like which wire is better? 22 gauge or 18 gauge and then those crazy 16 gauge people had to come in talking all that trash . If they only knew the crazy train would involve silver wire and carbon embedded Harry Potter dust ?
I have these as well. I use the second screw of banana plug to crew on wire speaker jacket all of mines. Nice video!
Thanks
I like the WBT locking banana plugs a lot better. Spade connectors has more surface area so Imo, they make a better connection.
Use whatever works best for you
I just put some solder on the bare wire to stiffen them up, it makes them much easier to insert into the binding post.
That’s a slick idea
Don't forget to clean them with isopropyl alcohol after tinning them to remove the solder flux.
I personally won’t be doing any soldering but to those that will, thx for the tips!
@@blueribb99 IPA dissolves flux?
@@bitTorrenter It always did for me
I've only seen a few of your videos but enjoy the information. Seems like your always helping someone; you got some credits on the other side just waiting for you someday. Keep being you and doing these videos.
Thanks Mike I enjoy helping others
@@Youthman and it shows!
Hey Youth Man what about using some wire ferrules! that will solve both problems you won't lose the screws and the thickness of the wire won't be as much of a problem. Affordable and cheap and improve connection and durability of the cable! I use them on all my car audio amp install where vibration is more of an issue never had a loose connection once I started using them!😃
I am not familiar with those
Hey Youthman, I have a word of warning for you and your viewers.
One thing that I have come across when shopping speaker wire, especially 12GA and lower, when bargain price shopping is that you REALLY need to watch what you buy. Copper is expensive, and in the thick gauge wire in particular sellers will try to trick you into buying CCA! CCA is Copper Clad Aluminum and is a far inferior product for transmission of audio since it is really just aluminum wire with a thin copper plating. I really haven't seen CCA in anything above 12ga but please take a second in your videos when dealing with speaker wire to warn your viewers against this pitfall as I bet many people aren't aware that something like this even exists. Also when you spend just a bit more on speaker wire you are ensured to get a TRUE 12ga thickness, instead of a really thick jacket hiding some actually 14ga or 16ga wire beneath.
Keep up the great content!
Thanks Rich. You would think they would have to be regulated but maybe not.
@@Youthman well they are and they are not. They are required to disclose that it is not pure copper, but they get tricky and try to disguise the fact with things like small font, or acronyms like CCA that don't mean anything to many people who don't know what to look out for.
@@Youthman Here is a perfect example of 12 ga CCA hiding
12AWG Speaker Wire, GearIT Pro Series 12 AWG Gauge Speaker Wire Cable (50 Feet / 15.24 Meters) Great Use for Home Theater Speakers and Car Speakers Black www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWYKF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z3VOBbH13V1SX
Wow, I see it now. I didn’t know about CCA. No wonder it was inexpensive. Live and learn
Thank you for the info!
one q about those lock-banana plugs... what part of the wire have to touch the which part of the plug to get the best connection? Does both srews have to touch the bare wire or does it just have to touch the inner most part of the plug?
Easiest way to remove those plugs without a screwdriver or removing the jumper, is to just unscrew the binding post all the way and it comes out with it. Pops right out and you just screw it right back on. You only need to unscrew one binding post from negative and positive. The second red and black still hold the jumper.
Hi Kevin, I just tried unscrewing the binding post from my Klipsch RF7 III and the Paradigm 600C and when they get to the top, they stop unscrewing. I applied a descent amount of force and it did not unscrew all the way. I don’t want to force t. Screwdriver method works easily enough for me
Youthman. Sorry it didn’t work on those speakers. It worked on my old Polk speakers. I have svs ultra fronts, center, bipole surrounds and elevations. As you know, they don’t have plugs. Worth a try bud. Thanks for the info.
They may come off, I just don’t want to break them trying to. 😀. Thx for the tip though.
Another great video Sir.
Love the relationship and hobby that you and your son share. Based on the great deals and even the free banana plugs, it is clear that you and your family are reaping what you are sowing.
Keep those videos coming...!
Thanks Oldskool. I have always enjoyed helping and serving others. I am truly blessed by the Lord.
@@Youthman Amen and ditto Brother...!
Nakamichi banana plugs are my favorite
Cool. I think they were the first brand I ever bought. My only issue with them is over time they became loose and I would have to bend out the post to make them stay in.
@@Youthman I'm using the Nakamichis - since they rarely get disconnected, I haven't had the issue with their coming loose. BTW, one of the Sewell varieties appear to be identical to the Nakamichis.
Ever think about using 4mm banana plugs that you solder on, instead of set screws? I come from a RC hobby background, so soldering is life! We use them for direct connection to the lipo batteries!
Soldering is not something that I’ve ever learned. It’s almost an art is it not?
@@Youthman I guess you could say that, but I think with most things, only way to truly learn, is by doing! Like most things, until you try, you just don't know, but eigther way, if you mess up, all you can do, is try again! Practice makes perfect! You'll pick it up in a few months, then next thing you know, that your solder joints look better than factory!
Yeah, I have enough on my plate right now. Honestly, I don't see myself having a need to solder too often.
@@Youthman The biggest mistake I see when people use solder is that they heat the solder itself, rather than the joint. This creates what is known as a cold-solder joint. I learned to solder in order to build my Hafler DH-110 and DH-220 kits. It really wasn't too difficult to master.
I'm sure you've tried the Klipsch RC-64 center. If you had to choose between the Paradigm 600c and Klipsch RC-64, which one would it be?
The Sewell's are very nice. Just switched out my old plugs for them.
They look really nice
Sewell plug tines will lose their memory and become loose after inserting and removing, you will eventually have to insert narrow blade to expand tines.
Gotcha. So far so good
I used some very similar bananas of that design. That's sort of copy of an older WBT design. However I believe WBT could be using better metal. I am not familiar with GLS plugs but the ones I had were made of some brittle metal. Once they were tighten in binding posts of B&W 801 speakers (that have some cavity inside a hole) banana slit tip elements got permanently deformed. Then cable got pulled by accident and some of pieces at tips just cracked and broke off.
I was hoping for a more positive review of the GLS plugs. I have had my eye on them because of the large barrel size and of course the locking feature. I am using 14/4 cable and twisting pairs to make 11awg and thought they would be perfect for that application. If there are problems locking them into place for a secure connection, then I am not so sure about them. Anyways, thanks for the videos and honest reviews!
Yeah, I’m very surprised. I was able to get the one in the video to “lock” securely but some of the others not so much. I’ll try all of them to see if it’s a few or majority that have the issue.
Ok so most of them I can get right, but a few get pretty tight but I can still pull them out of the binding post without unlocking them. If I need to buy more for myself, I’ll likely buy the Media Bridge I linked to in the description as they look very similar to the Monster but are WAY cheaper and they have awesome reviews.
I was just about to suggest to bend the wire double, but then you did it for me :-)
I use 11 AWG, actually 4 mm2, that we get in Europe at least. Just a bit thicker but, I still bend the wire double which makes it about 8 AWG or 8 mm2.
Can i just solder the ends and seal the exposed wire with liquid electrical tape and avoid buying the plugs?
GLS Audio Bananas are the Best!
Thanks for this video; how are the Amazon Basics banana plugs?
I haven’t tried them but they look similar to my Sewell plugs which are very nice.
Great video again man! Great looking banana plugs, great price point, clicked on the link. Think that I might have to replace some of mine. Great job on the tutorial part on how to use them. FYI beautiful center channel speaker!
Thank you Hi-Fi.
Hello from Illinois I am new to your UA-cam channel and I must say your info is spot on!! And I enjoy your unboxing and setup so thanks again. from Big D..
Thank you Big D! Appreciate you taking the time to join this great community. What is your current setup?
Clamping stranded wire with a set screw without any metal plate inbetween does not provide a reliable connection. The solution could be to use some crimp type ferrules on the wire ends or to tin wire ends.
I've had 3 or 4 different brands of banana plugs pull apart - the ' banana' part staying stuck in the socket, just pulled out of the main plug part ( connection to wire.) seems the 'banana ' part is just a press fit, not secure. this is for the common 6 for $ 20. variety.
The Nakamichi brand was bad at that. I have had zero issues with GLS, Monster and the Amazon Basics banana plugs.
@@Youthman thanks for reply , good to know I wasn't imagining things. (again.)
Love your videos. Keep up the good work
Thank you Moto
That Center channel is the same size as my towers LOL.
It’s very large indeed. My Klipsch LaScala weighs 120 lbs. LOL
Hi, i just bought the SVS pb-12 plus 2 subwoofer. I am so exsited to drive and Get it!
Awesome! Let me know how you like it once you get it setup. 10 years ago, that was the model I was drooling over when I was building my theater. It’s a beast
Do I have to use the calibration mic that came with my Onkyo? I record music and have all types of mics. I’m guessing the receiver mic is a condenser mic and is multidirectional, which I have several condenser mics. I also have acoustic mics. The only reason I’m asking and haven’t tried it, is because I don’t have a mic cable with a headphone jack on the other end, just didn’t want to have to buy one if I don’t need to.
You can try with onkyo first and than with your microphone and compare but if you have good hearing you can adjust without any microphone by yourself like I do 👊
Your Nightmare thank you
My understanding is each microphone is calibrated differently so I would recommend using the included mic
Youthman thank you
Glad to help
Wow!!!!! I never knew that at 13:02..that help alot .... brb got some work to do 😁
What part was it that you learned?
Taking out the covers to insert my banana plugs..😂
I gotcha. Strangely, when I clicked on the time stamp on my phone, it took me to a point in the video that was not talking about the tabs. But I just clicked on it on my computer and it took me right to it. That's why I was wondering what you learned. I didn't know that for MANY years as well. I used to think certain speakers just didn't accept banana plugs. LOL
Youthman same here lol
Strange
the shielding on that cable shouldnt be that hard to remove. reviews on that exact cable claim that problem.
I have these in my set up. I love them! Such a good product for a tight connection. Easy to use and set up as well.
Thanks Brian. Do you have any issues getting. Them to stay tight enough not to be able to pull them out?
@@Youthman no, I had to hold the bottom of the plug to get it to expand though.they we're just spinning and not expanding properly. But after I figured it out they're snug and don't come out
Yeah I was holding the bottom. Hopefully they will get better with time
Not related but youthman are you having any trouble getting Atmos to work on the 1120 with Apple TV? I’m struggling.
Hi Chris, I rarely use my AppleTV so I haven’t tested it. I only use it to stream music from my phone
For some reason I can not get Atmos to play on the 1120. I do love the sound of this thing however it’s not the easiest setup. It becomes extra hard because I do not own a windows computer.
I’m there with you Chris. It sounds amazing, is extremely versatile and powerful, but I too find it not super user friendly. And without a windows computer, you don’t have all of the features and options available.
Update: after talking to Anthem I realized I was not on the newest firmware for the 1120. Once I updated to the newest it worked GREAT! They emailed me back with in 24 hours and I’m sure I could have called and gotten someone even quicker. This thing definitely sounds amazing!! Can’t wait to hear your opinion on it compared to the others your reviewing.
Awesome Chris. Their tech support is really great. I reached out to them once and they were very prompt.
Hey Youthman,
Thanks for the video. I've considered banana plugs, but like anything else, why add induction? Why not just use the wire straight into the source?
Thanks,
If you don’t need the convenience, then you don’t need them. They are a must for me, even before I started Youthman Reviews
Youthman's reply is spot on. The banana plugs don't add any induction that you can hear but are they ever handy if you move speakers in and out of the rotation like I do! First 3.1, then 5.1, then swap center speakers, it just goes on and on.
I think banana plugs are most handy on the amp end where space is cramped and you often have to insert speaker wire while looking at the back of the AVR upside down, sideways and backwards. That's when they are worth the price of admission!
Be aware that the exposed ends of bare wire will oxidize over time, degrading the signal transfer. That's one of the reasons I use banana plugs.
Yes locking speaker plugs are more secure and connect firmer end of story .
When they work. The GLS didn't lock very well. I have other Locking Banana Plugs that lock great.
Not this kind. These plugs have only 4 tiny contact spots within binding post holes. The NewGen WBTs might be another story.
great video.....
Thanks John
It’s July 2021 and these are currently unavailable
Yeah COVID has that effect on a lot of things.
I have seen some people using a heating element to burn the rubber lol bad move
Dude why use that cheap wire? Its soo thin!!
Hopefully you realize the only time you need large gauge wire is for long runs (like over 30 feet). Although 16 gauge is more than adequate, I typically buy 14 gauge
Looks like copper clad aluminum wire.
Yes, I wasn’t aware of that till someone told me what it was. I thought copper was copper.
Lol that center channel cost more than 400 bucks.
Correct...that isn’t the center we bought for Joes System. Paradigm sent me the 600C and 800F speakers to review.
Here is the system we bought for Joe for $400 - ua-cam.com/video/2jngd_lug3g/v-deo.html
MACRO FUNCTION ON YOUR CAMERA PLEASE.... THANK YOU ANYWAYS....HAVE A NICE DAY
There is no macro function. The camera I had at the time I made this video didn’t autofocus for video so as I moved towards they camera, it was no longer in focus.
Now that I have a new camera, maybe I’ll redo the video. 👍
Yeeeeee hawwwww here comes the gas
I tried installing these. They were absolute garbage.
I still enjoy mine. Worked great for years. What don’t you like about them? Which ones do you prefer more than them?
If you really love banana plugs, it makes sense to talk about quality, what are they made off, copper/metal/aluminium-core because this is what really matter and you talk all the time about convenience. Hi-quality plugs are made out off copper alloy.
It is all about conductivity! Convenience is secondary
Which plugs do you prefer to use?
Nice plugs but they are too tedious
I agree, not my favorite for that very reason.
Sorry but why you put on an ,,expansive,, ,,good cable,, and leave the cheap bridges ? When you Single wiring than put some cable (for exampl. same as the speaker connection cable) between it instead the cheap original bridges... even if its sounds the same, for me its the better way
I know guys that make their own jumpers as well and there’s nothing wrong with that.
I guess my question if there is no audible benefit, how is it the better way? My thinking is if it doesn’t improve the sound and if you never see it, there isn’t any reason for me to use speaker wire instead of the stock jumpers.
By the way, I’m not using expensive cables (again if I can’t hear a difference, I don’t feel a need to use them).
What is it that makes you call the bridges "cheap".