Fuel Pressure @2000 PSI After Engine SWAP?? (Chevy "Craptiva" GDI P0089)
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- Опубліковано 11 лис 2022
- Here we go again...another modern GM GDI engine that is NOT having a good day.
Supposedly the car drove "fine" for a few days after an engine replacement, but now it's definitely NOT HAPPY!
Only codes set are "P0089-Fuel Rail Pressure too HIGH"...interesting.
Lots of variables with an engine swap...This one might need a few more parts!
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Ivan - Авто та транспорт
I thought the bonus footage would be the tow truck from the salvage yard towing the car away. 🤣
or pushing the p o s off a cliff
Might as well have been...It's like throwing bad $ at black hole at this point...
This video takes me back to the early 2000's when I was working for a GM tier 1 supplier , GM had sent a new Chevrolet Optra over for us to examine , it had arrived at the facility at night , I walked in that morning and all of the Chevrolet logos they had glued on over the Daewoo ones had fallen off and were on the floor. The examination went downhill from there , a horrible car made as cheaply as you could get., GM had truly abandoned selling a product of reasonable quality in order to generate some quick profit at the expense of long-term customer satisfaction.
I detect the foul stench of bean counters...
Fun fact, that was one of the OG reasonably priced car on Top Gear
It was sold in the US as the Suzuki Reno/Forenza
@@TonyRule As a bean counter, I can assure you I smell just fine. I shower every day.
Only one part required…engine!😂
Yep..spot on. Minor problem.
In my experience working on these engines the metal you’re finding in the filter and the solenoid screens is part of the timing chain guides. The plastic breaks off then the chain eats into the metal part of the guides.
Hmmm, interesting.
@@46bovine VERY interesting!
That would be my guess too. The front oil galleys that supply pressure to the actuators and the timing chain tensioners does not get filtering. The chain starts slopping around and the guild retention bolt on the right side (intake side) tends to get hit by the chain and the head wears. That's most likely the shiny shavings in those screens. Those screens BTW, are the only filtering the phasers get other than the screen on the sump tube.
that was my first thought, with the noise and valve timing jumping around, with pump pressure going wonky. glitter of death and bad engine.
You ever get the plastic on the crank sprocket breaking off and causing the chain to be loose then tight again every 180* on the crank? I've seen that a few times
What was going through his mind when he thought flipping a Captiva was a good idea!!
One of the shittiest American vehicles... at least those practices never rubbed onto Cprvette motors.
🤔🤔
"Ain't NOBODY got time for research! This'll work!"
I had this exact same problem in my very first GDI engine ever worked on. All new timing components and high fuel pressure pump installed by the previous mechanic. Ended up being a junk cam actuator/phaser thanks to cheap junk ebay parts.. Needless to say I learned alot about these engines that month. Lol
Judging from the metal on those actuators, I would suggest the car has a timing chain tension issue too. Or it did at one time and they didn't change the oil or anything. Most likely still active.
Here is the problem with the 2.0- 2.4 ecotecs. The front oil galleys that feeds the actuators (which then feeds the phasers) also feeds the timing chain tensioners and chain lube nozzles but it does so unfiltered. The flow goes straight from the oil pump to those systems then right back into the pan down the front of the engine. The oil filter is located almost on the other end of the block and those galleys feed the crank and cam. That screen on the actuators is the only filtering mechanism for the cam phasers.
I can't remember if one or both tensioners rely on oil pressure to maintain tension but what happens is that when the tensioners start to fail, the chain guides on the front of the engine (intake side toward nose of the car) have a bolt holding them in really close to the chain travel path. As the chain loosens, it flops onto the retention bold and starts saving metal off it that then gets pushed unfiltered into the front oil gally that feeds the cam actuators and chain tensioners. It sort of feeds into itself so the worse it gets the faster it runs to a catastrophic failure.
The really bitch about it is that the bolt that gets damaged is behind the one part of the timing chain cover that is not removable from the block. There is an access hole you have to work through if the bolt head is damaged to the point you cannot remove it with a socket.
@@sumduma55 Thanks!
“This engine is about to die.” Timeless.
Great work Ivan.
When I run into this it's either been out of time or wrong camshaft. The dead giveaway is if you hear the high pressure pump squealing
I work on lots of auction cars. Always a mess, always lots of new ebay parts,
Great diagnosis!
Nice one Ivan. You’d think that pulling the oil filter would have been the first thing he did before installing the good deal motor. It was cheap for a reason. Hope he gets some form of compensation from whom ever he bought the motor from.
Highly doubt it..."That engine was perfectly good until you installed it incorrectly..."; Will be the logical response...Looks like the BANK wins this round...?
Great diagnostic, Ivan! Seems like a really complex pressure control scheme - changing the timing of the pulses to the pressure control solenoid when the cam timing already changes based on VVT solenoid drive - but the computer by way of the cam position sensor is following the cam position, regardless. I suppose the degrees reported on the pump solenoid are relative to the measured/calculated position of the cam. Sounds like something I got lucky and avoided when (in ignorance) I bought the car I have. At least I dodged that bullet. I realize when you're flipping a car, you hafta draw the line somewhere, but while the "new" engine was out, it sure would have been a good time to check the timing chain guides. Maybe the garage owner was misled about the mileage on the "new" engine.
I've been binge-watching your videos on a rainy Sunday morning I really like your in-depth diagnostics
They really earnt the CRAPTIVA badge over here in Australia, they're one big pile of you guessed it!
Very well done IVAN
Great video! Ended up being a symptom of another problem!
Dude you're on a whole different level of fact finding from the others. Awesome !
Thanks Ivan. I'm sure that GM and GM Korea meant well with this engine design and manufacture. Being fair, they'd only been producing the Captiva for 7 model years at that point. I'm sure they just needed a little more time to iron things out.
*Cough*
From what I understand the Captiva replaced the saturn vue. I think they Are just rebadged Vues. If that's the case they have been making them for a while longer than 7 model years
@Joby Fluorine Third stupidest thing after killing Oldsmobile and then Pontiac, but saving Buick. Okay, fourth stupidest thing.
@@joshdupont2209 I think the Captiva/Vue shared powertrains and possibly some other left over parts.
Not a good sign when I've never even heard of that model before watching this..."In 8 years, it will be like they never even existed...?" POS! Chevy/Ford should get back to basics, and name all of their models (Lemon #1, Lemon #2, 3, 4...); If a model is still working/driving correctly after 10 years, THEN and only THEN should they be allowed to change it...Who am I kidding...? I wouldn't go NEAR a POS American Lemon again; Even if you PAYED ME to drive it!!! "What's broken THIS WEEK...?"
@@joshdupont2209 The Captiva and the 2nd gen Vue are the same vehicle but the Captiva wasn't sold in the US until GM killed off the Saturn brand. Even then, the Captiva was sold as a fleet only vehicle.
Gotta love when customers give you a car to fix and it has an empty fuel tank.
That was fun...great content!
He replaced one bad engine with another. Two bad engines in a row might be an indicator of something more than random chance.
Yes, it's an indication of somebody else's used equipment. That engine- if the services are kept up is capable of well over 200,000 miles of service.
@@sumduma55 kept up how though? When GM, the dealership et al tell the customer that they only need to worry about changing the oil when the OLM tells them to, and those same intervals lead to failures like this, you can’t blame the customer for not knowing any better.
At the same token…those 2.4s are known for timing component wear due to the longer than optimal OCI…so why the replacement engine didn’t get a new timing set while it was on the ground is beyond me. I mean…I know why…but it still would have been the prudent thing to do.
@@DB-bw5fz I agree with the timing set. In my experience, metal shavings at the actuators is always from the timing set. The oil galleys feeding it is unfiltered.
However, I've had two of these engines (pre gdi) now that had over 230k- 280k before getting rid of the vehicles with no major engine issues. I did change the timing set at ever 125k (which I think is the stated interval). But outside of oil changes and an alternator, a couple o2 sensors and a cat on one, I haven't had any problems with either engine. One started leaking oil around the front main seal around the time the timing set needed changed but they aren't bad engines if you keep up with it.
I did mostly highway driving in those miles though. That might impact my personal experiences a bit. Around 500 miles a week just to and from work.
There had been other issues but not engine related.
@@DB-bw5fz Simple, it is an auction then FLIP car, they want a quick engine swap and sell, not worried about longevity...
Well that sucks.. Glad you found out!
The LEA is an E85 compatible variant of the LAF- wiki.
I guess it's not Dorman's fault today.
Got to do your due diligence. These engines are famous for this.
Or infamous. Glad I never owned one.
Yep I agree
Way to dig, sometimes thinking out loud is a great asset, the DTC and customer concern is just the symptom.
I know nothing about cars, let alone engines - I'm a software developer. I did come across your video by chance (blessed be the UA-cam algorithm), and watched the video from start to finish - it was very interesting! Best greetings from Germany!
Good day!
High pressure fuel pump seems to fail frequently per forums on ECOTEC LEA engines. One check is rising oil level and oil that smells like gasoline. Some LEA engines get clogged PCV holes that require cleaning or some way to improve performance / prevent blowing main seal from pressure. There were some piston ring recalls on these engines too. . .
A few years ago, I picked up a 07 pontiac G5 with a 2.2 eco-tec. When I was at the car dealer looking at vehicles, they allready had it running because I was distracted with another vehicle. Only after purchasing it did I notice the chatter at start up & the car needed a timing chain so, I did the timing chain then a few months later the transmission went out so, I picked up a 3k mile transmission from LKQ-250 & all has been good since. The trick is to get one without variable cam timing/oil solenoids. Mine runs great & has no problem getting up & going however the body is a different story. Luckily it runs good. I hope you had a good Thanksgiving Ivan! You would be the only technician I'd ever want working on any of my equipment!
Well Done
Great diagnostic, Ivan! I had no clue of what the problem was, until you started looking at valve timing. Good deal engine turns out to be a raw deal - metal shavings bonanza! Bring in next deal.
I had an equinox do the same thing to me. Switched some parts. Eventually did an oil pressure test. 70 psi cold (the engine would run fine) to 13 psi hot. Engine to worn to keep oil pressure
Solid diag Ivan!
Oo Ivan left us ona big cliffhanger.
Now waiting to see what happens.
Good morning Ivan.
I'm a DYI mechanic. I just swapped out a motor too. The PTU also. I did tear apart the old PTU. It's damaged.
Anyhow. I've got a loud roaring noise. I suspected a bad wheel bearing. Pulled bearing. Seems good. Bad CV axle??
I was not sure. I needed confirmation from a shop.
They are not sure. Bad trans or bad CV axle.
So going to pull CV axle today. See what I can find. I hate to guess. Anyhow. Cool diagnosis.
As soon as I saw the multitude of sparkley bit clogged up the solenoids. I was thinking the same way. Pull oil filter. Yup...more sparkley bit and a collapsed oil filter.
Swap motor again.
Ivan, great diag work! I have repaired about a hundred of these 2.4 ecotech motors ,here is a list of what goes wrong on these, vvt solenoids there is a update with tsb,timing chains ,there are 2 main chain and balance shift chains and parts will stretch and saw thru guides ,internal waterpump,direct injectors leaking,oil separator pcv in valvecover ,again tsb s oil pressure low due to oil pump pickup tube sucking air because they used rtv to seal it! Good luck to anyone who owns these junks,,.
You forgot high pressure fuel pump leaking into engine.😮
That's a real bummer when you install another engine and it's bad!
That's why you always to a partial teardown before install - at least remove the oil pan and valve cover....
Vvt solenoids are the new oil filters! Carnage at its best!
LOL METAL FLAKES BRO 🤣
Welcome back to the tiny engine oil control solenoid channel.
Amazing that it sets codes you might not expect that could lead you in the wrong direction. Every time I pull a solenoid out on a high mileage engine, there are metal flakes on the screens accompanying timing codes, rough idle all kinds of similar issues. Not sure what's worse nowadays, a reman or a used engine. New Crate motor might even be unreliable nowadays.
Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. It just means it's new.
Check the timing chain tensioner to see if it has been internally destroyed (i.e. take it apart); the resulting loose timing chain can cause all kinds of problems in these engines, including everything you found.
The Chevy Captiva was a using up of commuted vehicle production by GM for the model after discontinuance of the Saturn brand the model 'Vew'. It was mainly sold to rental vehicle company fleets as a low cost vehicle. I drove one once as a rental, it was ok but the engine and drivetrain was a bit rough for a vehicle of its time.
Saturn Vue
that engine is toast. I only see the forbidden glitter on an engine that was starved of oil.
0:48 "Swapped a few parts" hahahaha the look on Ivan's face says it all 🙂
Timing chain guide and timing chain. Just replace everything on an Equinox 2014. Balance shaft chain and everything. Clean pcv system as well causes the loss of oil and in return stretches the timing chain and gets into guide. Go ahead and drop oil pan and clean out pickup tube as well.
just had a equinox in the garage today with this same engine , found metal in the solenoids and metal in the filter, pulled the plug on any maintenance that was going to get done , that engine is toast.
Juuuunk lol
Good morning
Be great if we were in a platinum mine~ha Thanks Ivan enjoy the weekend
Good check on the oil filter 👍😎
Hi Ivan, love your videos. I am a somewhat advanced diyer. I am having this exact same problem with a 2011 GMC Terrain with a 2.4 ecotec. So the timing chain went and bent all the valves. I decided to do a rebuild since a different engine may have the same bad piston ring design. All new complete cylinder head, rings, pistons, complete timing chain components (all Cloyes), gm high pressure pump, throttle body, intake manifold. I originally used some Napa vvt solenoids but after watching your video I switched those to gm parts. It ran great for one day lol now it is back doing the same thing. I have an Autel mk808bt scanner so I can do live data. I am completely stumped at this point. The only other thing I can think of is the timing must be slightly off but I was under the impression that the engine would not run at all if the timing was off. I also have p300 misfire code
If timing was off you would have P00xx codes...
Sorry sounds like you did a lot of work. I hope you figured it out
I'd bring my ft's as well. Thinking when fault is present the ft's will adjust for excessively high fuel pressure.
@Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, hey Ivan, always enjoy your diagnostic videos! That engine really did sound "sick"... I'm not sure what they paid for the engine etc., but I wonder why more people swapping engines etc., don't remove things like oil pans, valve covers etc., to at least inspect things whilst it's out of the vehicle already. You finding those metal bits reminded me of the Mopar "Pentastar 3.6 notorious tick/tap sound". I inherited a van with that engine and at first didn't realize it was an issue as my old beater sounded like a sewing machine running and it was perfectly normal. In this case it was not, it started to get louder and I noticed engine performance issues despite the vehicle having ~115,000 miles and being ~5-6 yrs old then.
I went to change the oil the first time (they always had it changed at a shop - apparently the hourly employees there thought nothing of mentioning anything) and I saw metal bits, this wasn't "silver paste", it was actual bits/strings of metal on the filter so I did a little research and started disassembly and found several lobes across all 4 camshafts had scoring marks but the rear intake cam had more than one lobe which was shredded down to being ROUND instead of the usual "tear-drop" shape... This was due to the fact that their roller rockers had failed so the roller drops causing the frame to start shredding the cam lobes... There is actually very little clearance between the rocker frame and cam lobe to begin with... Just unbelievable.
So I ended up removing all 4 camshafts and replacing all 24 roller rockers and lifters (valve adjusters) and replacing that one intake camshaft which by itself normally retails over $500 but I bought it for less than half. I just can't believe that they design/build vehicles like this, sell them for $20,000-$40,000+ new and pass onto the customer the inherent problems of such poor designs/materials. These manufacturers should be held liable for it. I mean I still have push-rod engines running just fine more than 20 yrs later with 300,000 to 500,000 miles on them and this thing shreds itself at ~120,000 miles and 5-6 yrs old... Of course there have been other problems before and after. Definitely not a positive first experience with "Mopar".
I often wonder if inadequate oil use can cause the issue?
@@larrybe2900 , it is interesting that you mention that. After the MIL came on for the "35th time" in 6 months, it presented me with an oil pressure issue. This was after I had fixed the engine. It reported excessive pressure, like 96psi even at idle. Well it wasn't in fact high, it was just a bad oil pressure sensor, replacing it fixed the problem. But in the process I learned that supposedly these engines have a "dual stage" oil pump so that it can operate at dramatically different pressures. Some have had their suspicions that this design could have something to do with the upper valve train issue developing over time, Idk.
Personally, I keep oil and filters changed on a regular basis and as far as these engines, each roller rocker has a shaft in the center that the roller spins on and between the shafts and the rollers are needle bearings. In some instances I learned that the shaft began to "mushroom" a bit and the needle bearings even dislodged. Others have reported simply, "the rockers/valve adjusters" failed. I can't really say what caused the problems with this one, only that I didn't have any needle bearings missing and again for my peace of mind, I replaced all rockers/adjusters. After doing so, the engine sounded like a brand new one.
I'm certainly not an "automotive engineer" but to me, I'd rather have the old reliable push-rod engine or a better design where the rockers would be mounted onto steel shafts instead of having your rockers "float" on top of the valve and the valve adjuster with nothing but the camshaft lobes putting pressure on them to effectively hold them in place. That is just not a good design IMO, despite those engines being used in so many vehicles from the Dodge/Chrysler vans, to Jeeps, Chargers etc.
Zenith, at the end when you put "Mopar" in quotation marks, you do know that one word is short for "Mo parts please"...lolol.....
That sucks for whomever put that engine in. Wow.
Only one part need --- new engine.
Slime in the ice machine
With the glitter in the coil control solenoids and the clattering away, it smells like the timing chain is eating the chain guides
Just an fyi, if the engine has 80k miles or more on it the crank sprocket on the chain is probably broken and the chain slaps around. I've done dozens of chain sets on all years of ecotec 2.4's. car will have more issues
The old craptiva
Great I didn't know U had Chevy craptiva ours Holden still craptiva same as ford exploder
Oh the valve solenoids on these engines go bad with frequency per forums. Apparently the failure is internal coil wiring that is intermittent and sensitive to things like heat. On our ECOTEC, they bench tested fine but failed intermittently. New OEM solved the engine code. Replaced both intake & exhaust at same time as both subject to similar wear & tear.
Very annoying when BENCH TESTING fails to prove a part is failing. If the coil is failing, i wonder if, during bench testing, a series of high voltage pulses might reveal the fault when coil's nominal working voltage does not.
Sensitive to heat... mounted on a engine in an enclosed space good job gm.
@@frizzlefry1921: On the bench, a heat gun, freeze spray and some old fashioned tapping with a mallet might reproduce dynamic failures. I also have an oven in the lab to thoroughly dry boards after washing, and to uncover components that have become heat sensitive.
@@hightttech It might also destroy the coils. Could be fun to watch. 😀
@@jeffryblackmon4846: True. A little destructive testing is always fun. Would need a "known good" unit to get baselines and torture.
I'm 17 min through the video... I know timing chain can be worn and cause abnormal fuel pressure. Make sense because the pulse timing can be off with the solenoid.
Could be 2 bad pumps...
I say fully open the solenoid and see if it can bleed off???
Excellent diag again. I can only guess where all the metal in coming from. Oil pressure is probably an issue. Did I miss something, what was causing the fuel pressure to spike?
Ivan do you ever get a car to test drive with gas? Lol. The question is yes it will fit but that don’t mean much in todays world. The question is will it work. The most likely answer is no it will not. Back to the continuing saga. Ivan your the best. 👍
The next failure is 16 bent valves! Possibly more damage.
❤
Dead on arrival. Hate that you had to waste your time with this Ivan, but at least we got a tutorial on the GM GDI relationship with the VVI
Ivan, I wanted to point out something to you to consider in your troubleshooting of electronics and electronic components.
Voltage and Current behave very differently. It takes voltage to get current, but it does not take current to get voltage.
For example, in this case with the solenoid, you have a wire that provides an input voltage to the solenoid and a wire that provides a return to the circuit from the solenoid. If the wire is open on the return side, you will have voltage at the solenoid, but no current thru the solenoid. The voltage at the solenoid will remain throughout the circuit until the location where the wire is open.
@ 19:30, a measured show of voltage, does not mean a flow of current thru the solenoid at that test point.
Ivan. Not Ethan
@@sandybarnes887 Oh geeze... thanks!!
lots of parts required
Great video, but I hated the diag for the shop owner. Hopefully, he has some recourse.
Ah. The forbidden glitter.
Knock knock.
Whose there?.
Cam chain tensioner.
Cam chain tensioner wh....
BANG!!!!
After finding the aluminum shavings the diagnosis is replace the timing chain or the engine. Speaking from experience.
Talk about a parts canon! :O :P
No way, a GM 2.4l with timing issues, I don’t believe you 😂
Craptiva. You come up with some funny names
Back to the auction I guess
30:11 that is a oem solenoid. The AC Delco are 50 bucks from the dealership
Every time iv seenThe metal in the solenoid the guides are broken and the metal is coming from the bolts that hold the guides
I went through same thing with my 2014 terrain. It had skipped time and crashed valves. Put pistons rings timing everything kit solenoids phasers and 3500 miles it shit the bucket. Spun rod bearing. Brand New ac Delco hpfp was leaking fuel into crankcase. I bought a 500 2009 Malibu engine and used bottom end and swapped my direct injects head and it works like a charm and is not 3000 for an engine.
Ivan question for you. After viewing the PIDs for the exhaust camshaft I understand why you went after the exhaust VVT solenoid but what was going through your head that would tie erratic exhaust camshaft position to the fluctuations in the high pressure fuel rail? The high pressure fuel pump is driven off the intake camshaft so how were you tying the exhaust camshaft to the abnormally high fuel pressure? I can't tie them together.
Good question.
When you start going down too many rabbit holes 😅
Hi, Good Morning?! thanks for the video!! even opened the engine to see the origin of the metal? Did you solve the problem?
Another great video Ivan,I can't tell how many times I have begged customers not to go the used,junk yard part and got bitten in the ass.now if that's thier choice it's pay me up front no warranty on my labor.
P 228 D High fuel presturned out to be fuel rail pressure center
Sender
Have to feel bad for everyone involved.
that crap-tiva moment when you see metal shavings..
My experience is upper end oil pressure causes the phasers/timing to be off, and that timing being off throws the high pressure fuel pump solenoid pulse timing off thus creating stray pressure the pcm doesn't know what to do with. Of course a failed vvt solenoid can cause the same thing...
I mean low upper end oil pressure that is..
Hi, i am having the same issue with my Captiva 2.4l 2012, rough idle and high fuel pressure on idle too, changed fuel pump and VVT solenoids but no luck, please help
@samirlissasosa8234 I can't remember for sure, but I believe those have a live oil pressure sensor. Use live data on a scan tool to check base oil pressure. Make sure its in spec. Also see if scan data shows a vvt degree of error on that vehicle. This should rule out base engine problems. The 2.2 and 2.4s are notorious for timing chain issues.
hello ivan, did you ever figure out what caused the problem?
my 2012 chevy equinox is having the same problem.
Whenever I shop for a car, I look for a place that buys auction vehicles and then installs crap engines after they realize they got a crap auction deal, so they can flip that crap onto the next guy. Those places are the best. "Curbstoner Crap Vehicles R Us." We go the extra mile to spray Armor All on absolutely everything.
It looks like the owner of the vehicle needs to be replaced 😂
My guess is going to be a faulty high pressure fuel pressure control solenoid. Just off the first couple of minutes.
I wasn’t right, either
Hey Ivan what should the STFT be at cold start for an a part Toyota.
Most fuel trims should be within around plus or minus 5-7 percent on avg. with some fluctuation. Anything above that and something is inefficient in the engine systems controlling the fuel trim demands.
Ivan, those ecotec engines are junk. Trust me, they have ate camshafts and lobes. That's why you see the sparkly stuff. As they consume so much oil, people don't check them regularly. That's why i see them dead at junkyard, lol. Great video and diagnosis but i knew what happened when i heard the noise in the engine! I feel bad for the owner!
I have a 2018 escape 1.5L 29k on it came in Thursday to have a check engine light and traction control light looked at I didn’t get time to look at after I first brought it in no coolant in degas bottle cylinder 1 misfire put coolant in and put pressure tester on it let it sit overnight Friday they wanted it back and we’re going to bring it back Monday tried to start it and it kept dying cel light flashing yeah I’d say there is coolant on the pistons lost almost 10 psi on the pressure tester overnight too
Makuloko says they blow head gaskets cyls 2 or 3...borescope time
Seems like elementary pre-checks and pre-installation maintenance prior to installing the second-hand engine were not carried out. This does not instil confidence in buying that particular vehicle when it comes up for sale again. To quote the well known Forrest Gump "That's all I have to say about that"
So earlier in the video you had mentioned about being careful with the engine swap. Focus was on the compatibility of the replacement engine. I am assuming the replacement engine came from a salvage yard, not sure, but it was mentioned it came from a Buick Lacrosse. If it did come from a salvage yard, the oil would have been drained out but residual would have remained. Using the lid from a pickle jar or any lid with a white lining inside would have caught residual oil when removing the oil plug, even though it had been drained, and would have revealed metal flakes if metal in the engine existed. If this was not done, I would consider it a rookie mistake. NEVER buy an engine without checking the oil in the bottom of the pan.
Oil pan was actually removed... Maybe that wasn't a good idea 😅
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics those metal shaving come from thr timing set. As the chain stretches and the guilds wear out, there is a bolt holding the guides on the intake side mid way down the engine. The chains rub on that bolt. The front oil galleys feeding the cam actuators and the chain tensioners are not filtered so it just blows those shavings around that system. Those screens in the actuators are the only filtering the cam phasers see outside the screen on the oil sump.
But those bright shiny shavings should be magnetically reactive if you test with a magnet. No other metal other than bolts and the timing set on that engine will do that without an obvious spun bearing and corresponding sounds like a rod knocking or squeals.
Not here is the real bitch. If the timing set was replaced in the past but those galleys weren't cleaned out, you will continue to get metal shavings for some time. Especially with new oil that has a bit more viscosity.
Now we know why Chevy calls the same car model different names depending on the country. Their reputation is following them.
It's a never-seize factory
Metal shavings as big as that should never get past the oil filter, if they do, the oil filter is certainly clogged, and unfiltered oil is going through the filter bypass valve.
9 times out of 10 a junkyard engine is not good, even if they say it's good and runs, it needs at least something replaced, if not a full rebuild. I despise "flippers" that throw junk engines in cars, just to pass off the problem to the next owner.
Imagine owning one of those dumpster fire on wheels
The minute I saw that metal shavings I know it was done. Had the same engine on my daughter Equinox, that is done, engine guides are breaking up. Timing chain job or New engine
If I saw that metal on those solenoids I would have called it right there.... If the price of the engine seems to good to be true it probably is
That metal came from the timing chain rubbing on a bolt. It's common on those engines. The oil galleys feeding the actuators aren't filtered. Change the timing set, flush the galleys out, clean the oil pan and you are good to go.
@@sumduma55 yes i agree but with the amount of metal in that oil filter you can guarantee the oil pump, connecting rod, cam journals and main bearings are just about junk. Who's going to put a new timing set on a possible junk engine?
@@reweydewy oil pump maybe but it's on the lower timing cover and you should already get new seals for it with the timg set I think its part of the front main seal. The rod and cam bearings and everything else associated all get filtered oil so they wouldn't be harmed at all from this.
That metal and the oil that passes through the vvt actuators is oil straight out of the pan. The oil galleys branch into two separate feeds with one going to the filter and one to the front of the motor. The one for the actuators comes right off the pump, up to the vvt solenoids which will then determine if any goes through the phasers. It also loops down the back side to a chain tensioner. There is also a tap port you can access there but it is unfiltered oil. There are at least one if not two spray nozzles that lubricate the chains connected in that circuit too.
All the bearing journals and whatnot get filtered oil. It goes through the oil filter before entering the galleys that supply them. The filtered oil is sealed from the rest of the system until it exits the other end if thr system.
Bearings generally get only oil that was passed through the oil filter because the journals will use the size of the supply holes and bearing clearance to regulate pressure inside the bearing. Anything in those passages can damage the bearing or plug the oil ports. This is also why some engines can be damaged by the wrong oil weight.
GDI fuel system has two types of solenoids on high pressure fuel pumps, normally closed or normally open types, these two types are not compatible