I just had mine installed today. With these directions the heater/light are on the sane switch. Its best to have the light/fan on the same side. Will get that fixed. Thanks 🎸
*Works great with **Fastly.Cool** ! Love all the features offered! Multidirectional, temperature controlled and various speed settings! This is our third of this product!*
It's not as powerful as I thought it would be, but it works very well. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGjG43--gYqIoT4Xkur2PqCrtbKwTv2h There are three options to circulate air, and best of all a remote control for us lazy people. Installation was a breeze (no pun intended). It actually took longer to open the box then it did putting the side extenders on and sitting it in the window opening. It's a perfect alternative when you want airflow, but not the AC. Just might order another one for a different room. UPDATE: Bought another one like I said. They work great. Why not have two...
Nice tutorial! I prefer using a triple switch so that the fan/vent, light, and heater are controlled individually. No reason to have the light on if you only want the fan running.
I'm not electrician but I am an electrical engineer. If you are "upgrading" from a 250W (or 2) infrared lamp to a 1000W+ heater then I would suggest consulting an electrician. You are significantly increasing the load on that circuit which can be dangerous and even more so considering what else is on that circuit. Hopefully (and more likely) your worst case is that your breaker trips all time, but it may happen randomly when someone turn someone on in another room. Ideally the heater would be on a separate circuit and probably is if it the original heater was already a 1000W+ heater. Best case is there not much on the circuit and all will be fine. So it really boils down to "it depends" =P . Hope your wires don't melt.
Great input guys and I appreciate it. This puppy is still humming like it should with no issues a couple years after installation. Maybe just lucky for now:). Thanks contributing your valuable input though as it is very welcomed.
@@moorelife4449 You are correct. I have the manual for this exact model (Item 0498842, Model 7123-02-L) and it says make sure the electric supply voltage is AC 120 V, 60 Hz and provide a separate 15 AMP circuit on Page 5. I think some people are confusing the Utilitech with the Broan. I would also recommend the wall switch be changed out for the Broan-NuTone Wall Control 15-Amp Rocker Light Switch, White, Item #889199 Model #P3RW $24.98. Then you can operate the fan, heater and light all separately. For those installing a Broan model, they make a 20-Amp Rocker Switch as well.
Shoot man I wish I could have had attic access. This was in the ceiling between an upper floor. Had to cut out drywall to get to the brackets. Now I’m trying to figure out how to wire to a single switch. Sounds like that’s what you’re doing. Thanks for this video.
Can you do a video where you connect that same extractor with a three toggle switch pls. Me and my dad are trying to out one but cant seem to know where the wires go!!!
Very detailed video, Thank you….. I have Broan model BHFLED80 and I am looking for any installation video or written instructions, that is better than the manual……….
Recently had installed in another dwelling but the light & fan are on the same switch; heater on separate one. The (Heater, fan, light combo) in current home are all on separate switches. Be safe!
I just purchased 2 Broan (Light, Heater, Vent Fan) combos. My bathrooms each have 3 separate switches for light, heater, and vent fan so I will be replacing the same combination. They are already on their own 20amp breakers so I am hoping it won't be too hard to figure out. That blue wire I hope is on the old one so it is easy to figure out. If not I guess I will put it with the red wire as you did with my fingers crossed.
I always recommend consulting an electrician which that I am not. Good luck to you. For what it’s worth the one in the video is functioning perfectly still.
So i did exactly that oddly tho my blue wire was originally in with the black wires when i tried the way mine came out and your way my circuit pops wverytime o try turning the fan or anything on any help?
i currently just have a regular fan with a light as they both work with one switch, will i be able to use that same wiring for a fan with light and heater or do i have to run more wires to the switch?
My guy feeling is that it shouldn’t be a problem but can’t say 100% for sure. Would be good to consult an electrician if any questions, which I am not :) best of luck to you.
You connected the light (with) the heat together?? What if is summer time and you walk in the bathroom and turn on the light, wouldn't you fry inside that bathroom? Did you fix that after or did you leave the connection with the light and the heat on?
I actually have a three way (three switches on the wall) light switch. One for just the light, one for just the fan, and one for the heat/fan combo. Great question!!! Thanks for watching!!
Both fans come on same time for me. Got them hooked up to a double switch. Fan on one switch and heater on the other side. If I unplug the heater the fan ditch will kick on. But as soon as I plug heater back in the fan stops working by itself.
I seem to remember mine doing that at first then got better over time. That being said it makes sense that it should fire right up after you turn on the switch. Any issues with the wiring?
@@DIYTechnician I don’t think the wires are a issue because I had a heater vent there before and hooked up same way. I double checked wires tho. When I click the heater or vent button it starts slowly, like its building up to speed, just was worried if it supposed to or not. But after watching your video again, at the part were you click on vent, yours did it too, thanks
Do you know how to change the light bulb? The metal bar is stopping me from turning out the old one and putting a new one in and I can’t figure out how to remove it
Yes. I had to get a lower profile bulb to fit in there. Yeah they designed it crappy as far placement of that metal bar. The old one came out for me but it’s just a little tight.
It’s best to hire a certified electrician. If I had a white and black only coming out, that’s how I would do it. That’s just me. Consider hiring a professional as all wiring systems can differ. That’s my disclaimer.
Just a question…can the drywall support the weight of the fan while you are wiring/hooking up the duct work? Should it be braced between joists before this? I’m thinking this through before I make the trip up into the attic. Thanks so much for your video!
I have that exact combo. The directions say the elbow should be min. 18" from the unit. I can't get the holes in the unit to line up with the slots in the brackets. I watched your video with the hope that you would show that part. You didn't, so I wonder if you left out the screws?
I only got heater and air to work but not light . Broan 655 . I can't figure out the wiring diagram packaged with it because on it has red wire coing in from house supply . it's different from diagram only has bare , black and white wire . Three wires only .
Wondering what you did with the wires with the caps on them ? Do you leave them outside of the unit or tuck them inside the fan I feel like there isn’t enough space to push the wires inside the unit with the caps of them . I installed the fan and left the wire with the screws outside of the unit above the ceiling
I was able to get them into the box. I think you will be fine there however a real electrician may tell you different. I’m just a hack so take it with a grain.
Gosh so hard to say without looking at it. Seems I remember these wires coming out the back(top) and it may be hard to reroute. I have installed these without attic access before but the wiring configuration lent itself to a fairly easy swap. That being said I don't know how compatible this is going to be to a no attic access situation. If it were me I'd try to find an upgrade to what was in place with the same dimensions and configuration. It may involve removing the existing fan, evaluating and maybe even bringing it to the hardware store and matching it up, then installing a new one. Just my 2 cents.
I have the same issue... Might be just putting a wood board between the joists and screwing directly into the wood. I'm not about to rip out my ceiling to get those brackets in there.
I'm in the process of installing the same one but the old one I removed ran off of a 3 switch box. The 2 switch looks easy but how do I wire in using the 3 switch?
The light fixture part gets its power from a plug and that's the problem since I took it off and plugged it into another plug and light works . Wish I could just change the plug on the fixture . Thinking of replacing with Broan unit .But other function the heating part also not working . I havent taken that off and tested that . Just the air exhaust works . Don't know if anyone sells them and then I'd, just splice it in voila ( I think ) . OR since it's at least twenty years old just replace the whole thing ? Will at least look around my low attic check it out
I’m no electrician but I treat the red the same as black and have had good luck. I’ve read that it also depends on how the appliance or fixture is wired to the on/off switches. Red for me is the hot going to the switch. Black is also hot and white neutral.
I am replacing mine on my lower level I live in a split foyer there's only about 10 in in between the floors so unless I tear up the sheetrock this is going to be difficult lot different of a design over the 30 year old one that was in there but you can tell it was installed before the sheetrock
I’d say something is goofed up for sure. Did you buy it new? Was this a replacement for a prior one that worked. I’d truly recommend contracting this out to a pro if there is any shadow of a doubt.
Cool. How do you do it when your crawl space is like 18". The product designers of all of these things should try installing these on every type of house before floating their final product. They have no concept of a universal product.
I'm waiting for someone to put out the "real life" video where there is no attic access and you have to tear out 2" of your ceiling to get to the mounting brackets each time your heater/exhaust/light dies. I had 2 sets of 7 wires, including ground, 3 switches and spent a day with a hole in the bathroom ceiling studying wires. Shame on Utilitect for not supplying better wiring instructions for their product. It's quiet though!
I have no video, but I just replaced a 32 year old light/vent/heat unit with the Utilitech. The original units brackets were actually stapled to the bottom of the studs before sheetrock went up (what a pain). The new unit width is about 3 inches narrower so I have a large gap to repair. The wiring was scary and probably totally against code. Original installer used 3 conductor with ground (white, red, black) all 12AWG. They used the ground wire as the neutral, the white wire as a hot. Don't know if the ground wire is actually tied to house ground.
Lowes has them. I bet you can find one online too. It’s not bad and is still doing a good job. I ended up not using the heater function. Made the bathroom too hot:)
Do you have video of how you connected the wires to the switch(es)? You provided a great depiction of connection the wires to the unit (the only thing I did different was having the fan and light together and the heater separate); however, once I got down to the switch, I didn't know how to connect the white, blue, red, and ground to two different switches.
Hi Mr. Peterson. Thanks for stopping by my channel. The wires were already hooked up to the switches. I have a three switch system. The one on the left is for the light on the wall, middle for just fan, right for fanlight/heat/fan. Don’t know if this helps at all. The blue wire had me scratching my head at first too. I have the pictures how I did it on my website. Not sure if that will help either but maybe worth a look. I’m also not an electrician just a diy’r. Good luck to you:)
White is ground. If ground in switch box can be hooked up. If no neutral there maybe in a junction box near. Should have hot in switch box. Attach 2 wires using wirenuts. Now 2 hots one foe each switch
Yeah i felt like mine was kind of complicated at first given my wiring set up. Ended up being pretty easy. Im gonna post some step by step procedures on my website how I did it. I say hire an electrician if you are unsure. Not worth the worry if you’re not comfortable doing it. Just my 2 cents. Take care man and thanks for watching and chiming in.
@@DIYTechnician i just finished installing it. The heater and light use the same switch which I dont like. Will ask the dude to come back Friday and get the light/fan on same switch. Heater is not working properly. I think it may be the switch. I can't return it. Thats okay I dont really use the heater. Thank you.
@@davesaenz3732 awesome. I fully understand. Yeah the heater is sort of nice in the wintertime, but even then, it actually gets too hot it smaller bathrooms so you won’t be at a loss for it not working.
@@DIYTechnician It has 3 one for the restroom light, the fan and heater as the old unit didn't come with the light. I'm sure you can rearrange wires on switch to move light with fan
I just had mine installed today. With these directions the heater/light are on the sane switch. Its best to have the light/fan on the same side. Will get that fixed. Thanks 🎸
*Works great with **Fastly.Cool** ! Love all the features offered! Multidirectional, temperature controlled and various speed settings! This is our third of this product!*
Yeah mine is still running like a champ. Thanks for commenting
It's not as powerful as I thought it would be, but it works very well. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGjG43--gYqIoT4Xkur2PqCrtbKwTv2h There are three options to circulate air, and best of all a remote control for us lazy people. Installation was a breeze (no pun intended). It actually took longer to open the box then it did putting the side extenders on and sitting it in the window opening. It's a perfect alternative when you want airflow, but not the AC. Just might order another one for a different room. UPDATE: Bought another one like I said. They work great. Why not have two...
Hmm interesting
Nice tutorial! I prefer using a triple switch so that the fan/vent, light, and heater are controlled individually. No reason to have the light on if you only want the fan running.
Thank you!! :). I agree. I wound up leaving the heater unplugged because it would get really hot.
I'm not electrician but I am an electrical engineer. If you are "upgrading" from a 250W (or 2) infrared lamp to a 1000W+ heater then I would suggest consulting an electrician. You are significantly increasing the load on that circuit which can be dangerous and even more so considering what else is on that circuit. Hopefully (and more likely) your worst case is that your breaker trips all time, but it may happen randomly when someone turn someone on in another room. Ideally the heater would be on a separate circuit and probably is if it the original heater was already a 1000W+ heater. Best case is there not much on the circuit and all will be fine. So it really boils down to "it depends" =P . Hope your wires don't melt.
Me too. Still good to go.
Yea you definitely want to give supply it with its own dedicated circuit. Some require a 20 amp, some just ask for a 15.
Great input guys and I appreciate it. This puppy is still humming like it should with no issues a couple years after installation. Maybe just lucky for now:). Thanks contributing your valuable input though as it is very welcomed.
The very first page of the installation instructions says that a new 20a circuit is required for this fan/light/heater combo
@@moorelife4449 You are correct. I have the manual for this exact model (Item 0498842, Model 7123-02-L) and it says make sure the electric supply voltage is AC 120 V, 60 Hz and provide a separate 15 AMP circuit on Page 5.
I think some people are confusing the Utilitech with the Broan. I would also recommend the wall switch be changed out for the Broan-NuTone Wall Control 15-Amp Rocker Light Switch, White, Item #889199 Model #P3RW $24.98. Then you can operate the fan, heater and light all separately. For those installing a Broan model, they make a 20-Amp Rocker Switch as well.
Shoot man I wish I could have had attic access. This was in the ceiling between an upper floor. Had to cut out drywall to get to the brackets. Now I’m trying to figure out how to wire to a single switch. Sounds like that’s what you’re doing. Thanks for this video.
Yeah I know the feeling. Sometimes you gotta get creative when access is limited. Good luck with wiring!
Good job. I wonder if they have an led bulb I can use. I was more curious about the wiring. I have the same one but I may have to cut the Sheetrock.
Thanks Jose!! Not sure on the LED bulb but I bet they have one that will work. Good luck on the sheetrock, hopefully it goes smooth for you.✌️🤙
You can use any led under 60w. Also you probably will have to cut The drywall
Can you do a video where you connect that same extractor with a three toggle switch pls. Me and my dad are trying to out one but cant seem to know where the wires go!!!
If I ever get another one I will
Very detailed video, Thank you….. I have Broan model BHFLED80 and I am looking for any installation video or written instructions, that is better than the manual……….
Let me see what I can find. Thank you!
Recently had installed in another dwelling but the light & fan are on the same switch; heater on separate one. The (Heater, fan, light combo) in current home are all on separate switches. Be safe!
I ended up disconnecting the heater up inside the fan. Super easy to do. It just got too hot and didn’t need it.
Thanks for the feedback
I just purchased 2 Broan (Light, Heater, Vent Fan) combos. My bathrooms each have 3 separate switches for light, heater, and vent fan so I will be replacing the same combination. They are already on their own 20amp breakers so I am hoping it won't be too hard to figure out. That blue wire I hope is on the old one so it is easy to figure out. If not I guess I will put it with the red wire as you did with my fingers crossed.
I always recommend consulting an electrician which that I am not. Good luck to you. For what it’s worth the one in the video is functioning perfectly still.
Were you able to do it?
So i did exactly that oddly tho my blue wire was originally in with the black wires when i tried the way mine came out and your way my circuit pops wverytime o try turning the fan or anything on any help?
Not sure on this
i currently just have a regular fan with a light as they both work with one switch, will i be able to use that same wiring for a fan with light and heater or do i have to run more wires to the switch?
My guy feeling is that it shouldn’t be a problem but can’t say 100% for sure. Would be good to consult an electrician if any questions, which I am not :) best of luck to you.
You connected the light (with) the heat together?? What if is summer time and you walk in the bathroom and turn on the light, wouldn't you fry inside that bathroom? Did you fix that after or did you leave the connection with the light and the heat on?
I actually have a three way (three switches on the wall) light switch. One for just the light, one for just the fan, and one for the heat/fan combo. Great question!!! Thanks for watching!!
@@DIYTechnician Thanks for the quick reply, I just purchased a new unit and I'm not an electrician so hopefully things will turn out okay :-)
Both fans come on same time for me. Got them hooked up to a double switch. Fan on one switch and heater on the other side. If I unplug the heater the fan ditch will kick on. But as soon as I plug heater back in the fan stops working by itself.
Hmmm I’d consult an electrician as I’m not sure how to properly advise on this.
Question? I installed the same heater vent, my vent takes a couple seconds to start up after clicking switch. Is that normal?
I seem to remember mine doing that at first then got better over time. That being said it makes sense that it should fire right up after you turn on the switch. Any issues with the wiring?
@@DIYTechnician I don’t think the wires are a issue because I had a heater vent there before and hooked up same way. I double checked wires tho. When I click the heater or vent button it starts slowly, like its building up to speed, just was worried if it supposed to or not. But after watching your video again, at the part were you click on vent, yours did it too, thanks
Hi great video but I have a quest the Exausth is supposed to work with the Light, and the heather is independent .
Yes. That’s correct. This thing does put out some heat. So much so that I easily disconnected the heater connector.
Do you know how to change the light bulb? The metal bar is stopping me from turning out the old one and putting a new one in and I can’t figure out how to remove it
Yes. I had to get a lower profile bulb to fit in there. Yeah they designed it crappy as far placement of that metal bar. The old one came out for me but it’s just a little tight.
Hello there. I only have a white and black cable coming out from the ceiling. Should connect the whites together and the rest all together?
It’s best to hire a certified electrician. If I had a white and black only coming out, that’s how I would do it. That’s just me. Consider hiring a professional as all wiring systems can differ. That’s my disclaimer.
Did you leave the string inside the element coil?
Can you be more specific?
I have a string in my coil also. seems like a bad idea.
Just a question…can the drywall support the weight of the fan while you are wiring/hooking up the duct work? Should it be braced between joists before this? I’m thinking this through before I make the trip up into the attic. Thanks so much for your video!
I would say that it should probably be braced up and not rely solely on the drywall. Glad the video helped. Good luck to you.
I have that exact combo. The directions say the elbow should be min. 18" from the unit. I can't get the holes in the unit to line up with the slots in the brackets. I watched your video with the hope that you would show that part. You didn't, so I wonder if you left out the screws?
Hi Richard. Which elbow are you talking about? The vent? I’d like to help if I can.
I only got heater and air to work but not light . Broan 655 . I can't figure out the wiring diagram packaged with it because on it has red wire coing in from house supply . it's different from diagram only has bare , black and white wire . Three wires only .
Can this be installed in a mobile home?
I would think so but can’t say for certain without looking at the wiring etc.
Wondering what you did with the wires with the caps on them ? Do you leave them outside of the unit or tuck them inside the fan I feel like there isn’t enough space to push the wires inside the unit with the caps of them . I installed the fan and left the wire with the screws outside of the unit above the ceiling
I was able to get them into the box. I think you will be fine there however a real electrician may tell you different. I’m just a hack so take it with a grain.
@@DIYTechnician thanks man I appreciate the advice ! My middle name is hack
How do you install this without access to an attic? Mine is installed between two floors...
Gosh so hard to say without looking at it. Seems I remember these wires coming out the back(top) and it may be hard to reroute. I have installed these without attic access before but the wiring configuration lent itself to a fairly easy swap. That being said I don't know how compatible this is going to be to a no attic access situation. If it were me I'd try to find an upgrade to what was in place with the same dimensions and configuration. It may involve removing the existing fan, evaluating and maybe even bringing it to the hardware store and matching it up, then installing a new one. Just my 2 cents.
I have the same issue... Might be just putting a wood board between the joists and screwing directly into the wood. I'm not about to rip out my ceiling to get those brackets in there.
Great install, thanks for the video.
Thank you Philip
I'm in the process of installing the same one but the old one I removed ran off of a 3 switch box. The 2 switch looks easy but how do I wire in using the 3 switch?
This has three switches
Good job. This video help me in my proyect. Thanks, God bless you
Awesome! Glad this helped Tony:). Same to you.
I connected the blue with the red and it tripped my breaker. Where else would the blue go with ?
We’ll I think every house set up can be a little different depending on where you live. Did you ever figure this out?
The light fixture part gets its power from a plug and that's the problem since I took it off and plugged it into another plug and light works . Wish I could just change the plug on the fixture . Thinking of replacing with Broan unit .But other function the heating part also not working . I havent taken that off and tested that . Just the air exhaust works . Don't know if anyone sells them and then I'd, just splice it in voila ( I think ) . OR since it's at least twenty years old just replace the whole thing ? Will at least look around my low attic check it out
What if you don't have a red wire out of your house wire. Just black, white and a ground. Older house.??
I’m no electrician but I treat the red the same as black and have had good luck. I’ve read that it also depends on how the appliance or fixture is wired to the on/off switches. Red for me is the hot going to the switch. Black is also hot and white neutral.
Great video. Thanks man 👍
No problem 👍thanks for commenting
I was hoping to avoid going into the attic. Looks like it is necessary.
Yeah I don’t know how I would have done it if not accessible from the topside.
Good luck to ya
I did it with out securing it just in the drywall the fan and heater is not the heavy
I am replacing mine on my lower level I live in a split foyer there's only about 10 in in between the floors so unless I tear up the sheetrock this is going to be difficult lot different of a design over the 30 year old one that was in there but you can tell it was installed before the sheetrock
Do you know why the blue goes with the red?
I wish I could say I knew why.
What would you tell me I connect mine the same way and nothing runs
I’d say something is goofed up for sure. Did you buy it new? Was this a replacement for a prior one that worked. I’d truly recommend contracting this out to a pro if there is any shadow of a doubt.
This was perfect. Thank you sir!
Good to hear! Of course and glad it’s helped. Thanks for watching.
Thank you
Cool. How do you do it when your crawl space is like 18". The product designers of all of these things should try installing these on every type of house before floating their final product. They have no concept of a universal product.
I feel your pain😎
Is it possible to wire the heater to a thermostat?
Oh great question. I suppose it’s possible but that’s way out of my league. Thanks for asking though, maybe someone in the comments can answer.
Maybe a dimmer switch? question not suggestion
Thank you, you save my day!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the feedback too:)
What if I don’t have a red wire
I recommend a certified electrician but I usually treat the red wire as hot
So if you don’t have one than maybe the set up will be easier
I bought the same one you bought but it won’t work because of the vent on mine has to be to on the side 😠
Awe shoot. Hope you find the right vent fan for your configuration. That’s usually the luck I have too.
did u find 1 with side vent having same problem
I'm waiting for someone to put out the "real life" video where there is no attic access and you have to tear out 2" of your ceiling to get to the mounting brackets each time your heater/exhaust/light dies. I had 2 sets of 7 wires, including ground, 3 switches and spent a day with a hole in the bathroom ceiling studying wires. Shame on Utilitect for not supplying better wiring instructions for their product. It's quiet though!
Dang I know how those can go sometimes. I feel your pain.
I have no video, but I just replaced a 32 year old light/vent/heat unit with the Utilitech. The original units brackets were actually stapled to the bottom of the studs before sheetrock went up (what a pain). The new unit width is about 3 inches narrower so I have a large gap to repair. The wiring was scary and probably totally against code. Original installer used 3 conductor with ground (white, red, black) all 12AWG. They used the ground wire as the neutral, the white wire as a hot. Don't know if the ground wire is actually tied to house ground.
Where best to buy?
Lowes has them. I bet you can find one online too. It’s not bad and is still doing a good job. I ended up not using the heater function. Made the bathroom too hot:)
Do you have video of how you connected the wires to the switch(es)? You provided a great depiction of connection the wires to the unit (the only thing I did different was having the fan and light together and the heater separate); however, once I got down to the switch, I didn't know how to connect the white, blue, red, and ground to two different switches.
Hi Mr. Peterson. Thanks for stopping by my channel. The wires were already hooked up to the switches. I have a three switch system. The one on the left is for the light on the wall, middle for just fan, right for fanlight/heat/fan. Don’t know if this helps at all. The blue wire had me scratching my head at first too. I have the pictures how I did it on my website. Not sure if that will help either but maybe worth a look. I’m also not an electrician just a diy’r. Good luck to you:)
White is ground. If ground in switch box can be hooked up. If no neutral there maybe in a junction box near. Should have hot in switch box. Attach 2 wires using wirenuts. Now 2 hots one foe each switch
Yeah great idea to lay boards down to not fall thru
Thanks Frank!
Good video👍🏽
Thanks Jay!
Was there anyway to make the light work with the fan and not the heater?
Not sure. I think it could be possible though.
You got the wiring wrong the light and fan supposed to be together the heat should be by itself
Ok thanks. Works great for me.
Can u tell me about the wiring
Scared of the electrical part. Not sure i can do this.
Yeah i felt like mine was kind of complicated at first given my wiring set up. Ended up being pretty easy. Im gonna post some step by step procedures on my website how I did it. I say hire an electrician if you are unsure. Not worth the worry if you’re not comfortable doing it. Just my 2 cents. Take care man and thanks for watching and chiming in.
@@DIYTechnician i just finished installing it. The heater and light use the same switch which I dont like. Will ask the dude to come back Friday and get the light/fan on same switch. Heater is not working properly. I think it may be the switch. I can't return it. Thats okay I dont really use the heater. Thank you.
@@davesaenz3732 awesome. I fully understand. Yeah the heater is sort of nice in the wintertime, but even then, it actually gets too hot it smaller bathrooms so you won’t be at a loss for it not working.
@@davesaenz3732my wall switch has three different switches so it worked out. Does yours have two or three switches?
@@DIYTechnician It has 3 one for the restroom light, the fan and heater as the old unit didn't come with the light. I'm sure you can rearrange wires on switch to move light with fan
Shit I got 2 blacks and 2 whites coming out the house. Hope I don't fry this thing figuring it out
Did you have success?
I am in a same boat, with 3 switch, I should've taken pictures. Did you figured out?