Holy cow I never knew hp soap could be so fluid! Thanks for showing this amazing technique and for answering everyone's questions. I learned a lot of great stuff from the comments.
TorTeja Thank you! This soap was very fluid, but because of so much water it set up with a U shaped top, which I didn't like so much. Now I add sodium lactate and yogurt after the cook, and cover to keep warm while I'm mixing or pouring.
+Tiki Wil LOL, scary soap! Sorry I missed this earlier. You tube comments get buried so easily. Thank you for your kind words! I learned from other soapers, and anyone can learn this too.
Monique Brown Thanks for watching! Yes, there are new ideas being started all the time. :) I can't take credit for this one, but I'm happy to have found it!
+Soap Queen TV I don't know why I couldn't reply before. Thank you for the compliments! I had a lot of fun with this soap, from choosing the colors to seeing if it would stay fluid.
Thank you! Practically everything I have learned (and am still learning) is from youtube and Facebook groups. I feel fortunate to have had great inspirations there!
While you "can" I don't recommend it anymore. This soap set up with a U shape at the top that got deeper as it cured. While that's not the end of the world, it's also not a look I really enjoyed. I have found that using sodium lactate, yogurt, keeping the soap warm/covered, and most of all, not over cooking all can lead to a nicely fluid soap without going over a standard 36% amount of water. That being said, it's just water, and it will cure out eventually and no harm either way. My apologies for such a late reply!
I got it ! I have used sodium lactate added to the lye warwr after it cools. the salt added and completely dissolved in the water, before the lye is added probably does a similar thing. I am greatful for your responses
Hello ! I am new to soap making. Do you have the specific recipe and instructions to make this ? I want to give this a try. Best HP video I have seen so far.
Hi, I'm sorry I didn't see your comment before. Thank you for the kind words! I learned how to do this from Facebook groups, and this wasn't a complete tutorial, just to show how the colors and technique can look. For more detailed videos, I recommend my friend at Shalebrook Handcrafted Soap ua-cam.com/channels/LYte9VZzTnhDXkbFeY_RTg.htmlvideos
Sorry for the really late reply! Just following up on comments I didn't reply to, and saw this. I liked the comment but apparently that's not good enough for youtube, lol.
I love this video the only reason I've never tried Hot process is because of how rustic it looks afterwards without swirls or something to make it eye appealing. I never knew you could add that much water afterwards. Thank you, your soap is beautiful.
Glad it was helpful! I don't add this much water when I HP now, I focus on the recipe and the process more. If you'd like some better examples, you can see Shalebrook Handcrafted Soap for lots of more recent videos. I make a lot more CP now because I'm testing how the fragrances will behave, but HP will always be my favorite.
Lynda Bonner, I can't reply to your comment, but just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for your kind words! I can't take credit for this method, everything I learned was from the facebook group Hot Process Soapmakers. There are tons of wonderfully fluid swirls going on there! I think the difference is keeping it fluid, which could be done by adding water, or by keeping it warm and covered, which helps prevent it from losing water and starting to set up. I love HP!
HOLEEEE SMOKES, that's the prettiest hot process I think I've ever seen! I've done CP for going on 20 years, and have been looking into HP, but it never looks as pretty to me as CP does. I guess it's the chunkiness of most batters. Do you think it's your adding the water back in with the colorant that makes it so smooth?
+Lynda Bonner Thank you so much! I don't think I was able to reply previously. It is the extra water that makes this so fluid. However, it also caused this soap to set up with a U shaped top, and later it shrunk with somewhat warped sides to each bar. I now use 40%, and add sodium lactate, which gives great fluidity without so much extra water.
Thank you! This one just had lots of water, and while it was fluid, it ended up with a "swayback" or U shaped top as it set up, and got somewhat warped sides over time. I add sodium lactate now to get nice fluidity without the other problems.
Thank you for your videos, I really enjoy them. Do you have a video showing how to make hot process soap? I have been making cold process for two years and I now want to try hot process. Thank you
Pat Lantinga Thank you! I generally don’t do a full tutorial, but I’ll tell you who does. Valerie at Shalebrook Handcrafted Soaps generously shares several ways she makes HP along with recipes.
Wowwww! Ive been looking for a great swirl technique for hot process. I found my answer! This is beautiful. What is the purpose of the salt and sugar? Is that to make a smoother more manageable base that accepts swirls better? Would you mind sharing what % water of your oils you use or is it more of an eyeballed texture thing?
Thanks! I didn't make this up, I've learned so much on Facebook groups. The sugar is for more bubbles, and the sea salt helps harden up the bars faster because of the extra water. The sea salt also makes unmolding a breeze. :)
Carol Khoo, thank you! At this point in my soap making I wasn’t keeping the batter warm. I think I was just lucky that it didn’t set up, or I added so much water that it stayed fluid. When I make HP I cover it or place it in a warm bath. For more advice on techniques, I highly recommend Shalebrook Farms Handcrafted Soap. Valerie is so helpful and generous, and she makes HP much more often than I do.
love it! Can you please tell me, what is the effect of adding the extra liquid after the cook, aside from the obvious of it making the batter more fluid for swirls and such? Are there any other things to consider when making HP soap this way?
While I don't add this much liquid to my HP anymore, the whole point was to get more fluidity. If you are adding a superfat, or some delicate ingredient, after the cook would be the best time to add it. What ended up happening with this soap is that it had a sunken top, after it cured. I have learned more about getting a fluid HP since. It doesn't hurt to have extra water, it just takes longer to cure, and it may get the sunken in top look.
Thanks for asking, I'm sorry I missed this until now. That was a long time ago, but I believe what I did was use a 50% water amount, instead of the default of 38%. But I started with half of that amount, then added the other half after the cook. I wouldn't use that much now, I would just use 38% and add sodium lactate, yogurt, and most importantly, not over cook. I have learned a lot since then, lol. But also, I do CP now for testing fragrances and colors, and my HP skills are rusty. This was early on, when I tried more water to get more fluidity. It worked, but it set up wonky, with a U shaped top and eventually warped sides as the water cured out. I don't recommend that much water, but I learned the hard way.
Tammy Binning Thank you! I bought a thin steel rod and some tubing from a home improvement store, and bent the rod to fit my mold. It was actually overkill, but better than a plastic hanger. I use gear ties now, which may not be as stiff, but they are reposition-able.
I used 50% water as a percentage of oil weight, I didn't calculate the lye to water ratio (and I don't have that formula saved anymore). I don't suggest this much water anymore though, as it sets up with a deep U shape, and it takes longer to cure out. I'm sorry for such a late reply!
Melissa, I don't see a way for me to reply to your comment directly. I don't know why adding extra water wouldn't make it more fluid. How much water did you reserve for after the cook? I am currently doing 40% water, then I just save a few ounces for after the cook. I THEN add whatever amount of liquid (water or milk) to make it the fluidity that I want. Did you happen to take a picture of what it looked like? I"m sorry it didn't work out right, I hope you will keep trying! And thank you for your kind words, I'm glad you like the video. :)
Oh my Stephanie, I have been researching how to make fluid hp soap for a while. I have heard some who stick blend the whole way through, add SL and yogurt and or coconut milk to at the end. But I have never been able to put the whole thing together. Thanks for posting this video and explaining the water discount so well. But why the sugar and salt? Did you say the quantity is 1 tsp. per pound of oils? Thanks !
+Teal Allshouse, thank you, I'm glad to share what I do. I made this a while ago, and I am still experimenting. I always keep my soap warm now (in a little crock pot type water bath) while mixing the other colors. Adding SL, yogurt, and glycerine (and sugar) also help with fluidity. I would like to lower the water amount a bit, since it can make the soaps sink in the middle over time. There are so many things to try!
Cool, how much sugar per pound do you use. I also see some people use sea salt? Not sure when to add stuff in, also how much yogurt, etc and when ! Your vismds are worth their weight in Gold !
+Teal Allshouse LOL, oh, don't put me up there. I learned from Facebook soap groups, and sometimes trial and error. I'm still trying and have errors! I use between 5 to 10% PPO of sugar, added to the water that I reserve for after the cook (now that is, I used to put it in all of the water, but added after is supposed to help with fluidity). I also add sea salt, 1/2 to 1 teaspoon PPO added to the water BEFORE the lye is added to the water. That part is important or your lye might not dissolve all the way.
The water I added was in addition to what I started with, and I paid the price for using that much. As it set up the soap "sunk" in the middle. I was still learning how to make soap fluid without tons of water, and now I rely on sodium lactate, yogurt, keeping the soap warm, and mostly not over cooking it.
I love our videos! I wish you would make more of them :) I see that you do not have gloves after the soap has "cooked" At what point is of to handle and the lye is not dangerous? Thank you.
Thank you! I do plan to make more videos. Running the co-op group takes up a lot of time. Hopefully over my November and December break I will do that. The soap has gone through soponification once it has gelled, or passed the "zap" test (not zap if you touch a small amount to your tongue, cooled a bit of course). It is still hot, so be careful! There may be a small amount of oils that are not finished, but if you get some on your skin, if the temperature is cool enough, it won't hurt you. I take scrapings from the crock pot and test the soap right away each time.
Hi Steph. your swirls are beautiful. I am just learning HP and wonder if you can offer any tips on fluidity? Does it really matter how much H2O we use so long as fluidity is achieved? Also, besides the tongue test, what other ways can we test if the soap is cooked?
As far as the testing, I have only used the zap test. However, there is a chemical called Phenolphthalein that you can use to test as well. The zap test doesn't bother me, since usually when I check it it's nearly done, or done.
I've always been leery of making soap with this much color. No staining the washcloths? It sure is inspirational. Thanks for sharing your method. ( from BubbleBee Soapworks)
Thank you! I have no idea why I didn't see this 7 months ago. I go through my email but I think youtube hides things and randomly posts them, lol. Mica is a cosmetic pigment, and when added to soap you are not likely to get staining, though sometimes colored bubbles. If it is a very concentrated color, it can come off on the washcloth. I have only had a red that I couldn't get out just by hand washing.
Stephanie I have a question for you. I often see soapers adding reserved fluid after the cook for fluidity but how much of a water reduction do you use in what size batch.
+talwicca I'm sorry I didn't see this before. I start with 40% water, and hold back a few ounces. But really, I hate to say "it doesn't matter" but, well, it doesn't matter how much water you use. You add if it's too dry or too thick. It will not change the reaction of the lye with the oils, it will just make it more fluid.
Thanks Stephanie, Are you saying the salt is important ti add to the lye water because, when you discount the water to add back at the end, the salt helps that smaller amount of water dissolve?
+Teal Allshouse, I believe that the salt will help the soap get harder faster, though I don't know the exact chemical reason. However, please be sure that you know that if you try to add salt to lye water, the lye might not dissolve well. Then you have to throw out that batch of lye water and start over. Lye chunks should never go into your oils, a stick blender will likely not make it dissolve once it's in chunks. Either add the salt to the water first, or save until after the cook and you can add dissolved salt in the reserved water.
So do you use 38% water to cook the soap? And than add extra 50% after cook? Or what I’m a little lost I wanna try please this is by far the best Hp I’ve seen so far I love making hp soaps
You're so kind, thank you! I did not cook it with all of the water. I only used half for the cook, then added the rest after. I don't make HP as much (I test the micas and fragrances in CP), but for someone way better at HP, you can also watch Valerie Mosher's videos at Shalebrook Handcrafted Soaps: ua-cam.com/channels/LYte9VZzTnhDXkbFeY_RTg.htmlvideos
christine1962ful I don't remember the percentage of sugar, but I just use one tablespoon per pound of oils now. I dissolve it in all of the water, then I dissolve all of the sea salt in the water. I split that water in half, and set half aside. The other half is what I add the lye to.
Hi, I'm sorry I missed this from so long ago, my apologies. That is a hanger tool that I made from a piece of steel from a home improvement store. I covered it in plastic tubing (from the same store), and then bent it to fit the mold size. It was great at the time, but I didn't continue to use that mold, and the hanger tool only fit that mold. I prefer the gear ties that I carry in my store and that you see in other videos. They can be bent to fit a variety of molds.
+Sue Sue How did I miss all of these comment? My apologies! I reserve a few ounces out of an initial 40% water (just water, sea salt, and sugar, NOT the lye). I add extra water until it's fluid enough for swirling. Most of my HP done this way is nice and hard by 3 weeks. The sea salt will help with that, but so will sodium lactate if you prefer that.
May I ask how you keep your hot process soap so fluid? Everytime I do hot process it always turns out thick and clump. No way to get a swirl in it. I love these colors!!! Stunning
+czintx Thank you! I have learned from the groups I'm in to start with more water (I'm using 40% now), and I reserve a few ounces until after the cook. Also watch carefully that it doesn't get over cooked. Once it's done, I add back my reserved water, and basically add more to each colored part of soap before I mold it. I don't measure, it's just until I'm happy with it. Adding plain yogurt will help a lot too, because it has sodium lactate. You can buy SL too, both will help with fluidity.
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) Thank you so much for the quick response. I have added all your videos to my watch playlist and hope that you make some more. I am going to find a basic recipe and see if I can add more water to it and try it out. Thank you again!
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) When you say you're using 40%...what does that mean exactly? 40% concentration of lye? Or 40% of the water called for in your formulation?
+Craftlover 9 I'm sorry I missed this before. I usually cook on high, and if it starts to separate I use a whisk. If I am doing a milk soap with milk replacement for all of the water, I'll cook on low. I don't do that much anymore, I'll just add milk after the cook.
Love the finish product. What kind of hanger is that, was it made special for you or can it be purchased and bent to fit the need of the owner? Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! This was a lot of fun, but because of the extra water it cured out with a U shaped top. I've since found better ways to keep it fluid without just adding so much water. That hanger tool is a piece of steel rod I got from a home improvement store along with some clear tubing. Then I bent it to fit this mold, which I no longer use. So if you DIY one, be sure you really like the mold, lol. Now I use a gear tie that can be re-shaped for any size mold I have. If you look at my more recent videos you can see what I use now, but this one was one of a kind. It was an inexpensive project, but now I don't use it.
Stephanie Graham so could you put lessof the total amount to start and reserve a larger portion? For example, if using 40% h2O, could you use 20% in the cook and add the other 20 at the end?
christine1962ful Yes, that's what I do. I first check to make sure that the water that I'm putting the lye in is twice the weight of the lye. I want to be sure it dissolves well.
Hi! I'm new to your channel and I'm liking your vids! However, I'm new to HP soap making (all soap making, in general) and I notice how your soap is very fluid. You mentioned added 50% of water. I'm wondering if you needed to add any superfat on top of that? And how long, proximately, does your soap need to sit for dry? Also, with the coloring. If I'm to use mica, do I need to add normal color with the mica too? Thank you in advance. And also sorry for so many questions and my lack in Eng!
Hi, thanks for writing. I used 50% water for this soap, but I haven't used that much since, because it can cause the soap to set up with somewhat warped sides as it dries out. I use closer to 40% now, along with sodium lactate to help with fluidity during the pour. The superfat is completely separate from the water amount. I usually set my SF to 2%, cook as normal, then add 5% or so after the cook. This soap took at least a month to set up, though it varies, and I've had soap that is fairly hard by a week or two. Mica is a wonderful soap colorant all on it's own, as long as it is tested and shown to be soap stable. You are fine asking as many questions as you like, I'm glad to share. I did not have any difficulty understanding your questions here, so no troubles!
Stephanie Graham thank you so much! I tried your tips just now, also added yoghurt for more fluidity. The soap got more fluid and I was able to even out my soap before it dry out! Thanks
Hi Stephanie, could you explain a little more about water discounting? This is where I got confused, when you say use 40% to 50% of water do you mean split total water amount called for in the recipe in half and use one half for Lye sugar salt mix and the other half of water,sugar and salt mix for color adding? Or do you mean to use only half of the water called for in the recipe all together and then split that in half as well for lye and color solution? Thank you in advance you soap is Beautiful! :) Anastasia
+FlowerRemedy, thanks for asking. I use a 40% (not so much 50% anymore) water amount. That means if you take the number that is your oil amount (lets say 20 ounces) you multiply that number by 0.4, which equals 8. So for a batch of soap that calls for 20 ounces of oils, and you want to use 40% water, that means your total water amount is 8 ounces. For the total water amount, I add my sea salt and sugar first, and stir until it's dissolved. Then I will remove about half of that amount, and set it aside. I will add it after the cook. The remaining water is what I add my lye to, stir, and then add to the oils already melted in the pot. Once the soap is done cooking, I will then add the water that I set aside at the beginning. You need to be sure that you use at least as much water in weight as your lye weighs, and of course always adding the lye to the water, never the other way around. All I'm saying here is do not "reserve" so much water for after the cook that you are not using enough water to dissolve the lye. I make sure I am using twice the lye weight amount in water, just to be sure it dissolves properly. Once the soap is cooked, and I add my reserved water (warmed, so it doesn't make the soap seize up), then I color individual portions. If you keep the colored and "not yet colored" soap warm, it will likely not start to set up on you too much. I use little crock warmers for that. I used to add water willy-nilly, to make the soap as fluid as I want it, but that can lead to warping as the water cures out. It works to get great fluidity, but it doesn't look quite as nice later. There are some great tutorials out there as soapers continue to try new techniques. I'll be trying adding a higher percentage of sugar next. Thank you so much for your kind words. I really loved making this soap, and I'm really happy with the look. I hope I have helped you and not made it worse with my very wordy answer. ;)
Alina Voda, you can use any hot process soap as soon as you can handle it. I scrape out my mixing bowls and crock pot, and smash them together, while still warm, into soap balls, and test while the loaf is still setting up. The soap will last longer and some argue gets better over time. Once it is cut and the bars stop losing weight, that's when I consider them "ready."
+Karen Lemperle I'm sorry, soaping lingo, it's per pound of oils. I would weight out exact amounts for fragrance oil, but with colorant I usually measure by cups.
+Alvin Smith I'm so sorry I didn't see your question. I believe in this soap I used 50%, but I have since cut back, and I start with 40%. I set a few ounces of water aside that has the sea salt and sugar added (but NOT the lye), and add that after. Then I add water a little at a time right before putting each color in the mold. If it's too thick, I add more.
After I layered in the different colors of soap, I used a metal rod covered in plastic tubing, and bent in a "U" shape, to swirl the colors around. I hope that helps.
@@micasandmore No it didn't help.. In what shape swirls are done... Can you explain when you put the U shape rod inside the batter.. Then how you swirl is my query
Let me try again. I moved the hanger tool up and down, moving from one side to the other. Then I did some circles, the best I can tell from re-watching it.
Wow! It's so fluid. Can it sit and also be able to do piping? Or would you suggest piping with some of it before adding the remainder of the half of the 50%?
Holy cow I never knew hp soap could be so fluid! Thanks for showing this amazing technique and for answering everyone's questions. I learned a lot of great stuff from the comments.
TorTeja Thank you! This soap was very fluid, but because of so much water it set up with a U shaped top, which I didn't like so much. Now I add sodium lactate and yogurt after the cook, and cover to keep warm while I'm mixing or pouring.
looking good, girl. Most people who make HP the soap looks scary but you did a wonderful job.
+Tiki Wil LOL, scary soap! Sorry I missed this earlier. You tube comments get buried so easily. Thank you for your kind words! I learned from other soapers, and anyone can learn this too.
Stephanie, this is an excellent video! Thank you for showing us how you do your swirls!!!
Thank you!!! I'm glad to share. :)
wow i had no idea HP could be so fluid, this is cool! Thank You for sharing
Monique Brown Thanks for watching! Yes, there are new ideas being started all the time. :) I can't take credit for this one, but I'm happy to have found it!
That swirl is fantastic, and I love the colors. =)
+Soap Queen TV I don't know why I couldn't reply before. Thank you for the compliments! I had a lot of fun with this soap, from choosing the colors to seeing if it would stay fluid.
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) You're welcome! =)
and I love you my queen
I'M new to HP and you inspire me ! very beautiful colours !
Thank you! Practically everything I have learned (and am still learning) is from youtube and Facebook groups. I feel fortunate to have had great inspirations there!
I never knew that 50%water can be reserved and be added later..Thanks for the tips
While you "can" I don't recommend it anymore. This soap set up with a U shape at the top that got deeper as it cured. While that's not the end of the world, it's also not a look I really enjoyed. I have found that using sodium lactate, yogurt, keeping the soap warm/covered, and most of all, not over cooking all can lead to a nicely fluid soap without going over a standard 36% amount of water. That being said, it's just water, and it will cure out eventually and no harm either way. My apologies for such a late reply!
I got it ! I have used sodium lactate added to the lye warwr after it cools. the salt added and completely dissolved in the water, before the lye is added probably does a similar thing. I am greatful for your responses
+Teal Allshouse I like to share where I am, and the learning never ends.
Thumbs Up !
Hello ! I am new to soap making. Do you have the specific recipe and instructions to make this ? I want to give this a try. Best HP video I have seen so far.
Hi, I'm sorry I didn't see your comment before. Thank you for the kind words! I learned how to do this from Facebook groups, and this wasn't a complete tutorial, just to show how the colors and technique can look. For more detailed videos, I recommend my friend at Shalebrook Handcrafted Soap ua-cam.com/channels/LYte9VZzTnhDXkbFeY_RTg.htmlvideos
Very beautiful colors and swirl!!
+Melissa Reynolds Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for this, I just did a Georgia peach soap like this tonight! Will post pics of it tomorrow night in the hot process group on FB!
Sorry for the really late reply! Just following up on comments I didn't reply to, and saw this. I liked the comment but apparently that's not good enough for youtube, lol.
I love this video the only reason I've never tried Hot process is because of how rustic it looks afterwards without swirls or something to make it eye appealing. I never knew you could add that much water afterwards. Thank you, your soap is beautiful.
Glad it was helpful! I don't add this much water when I HP now, I focus on the recipe and the process more. If you'd like some better examples, you can see Shalebrook Handcrafted Soap for lots of more recent videos. I make a lot more CP now because I'm testing how the fragrances will behave, but HP will always be my favorite.
So informative! I am branch out to HP and was trying to figure out how to ass micas and various swirls for ot
Sassy Crafty Creations By: Deneice Herrera, thank you! While it’s not a complete tutorial, I’m happy to share what I did.
Very beautiful!
+Grape ! Thank you! I'm sorry I didn't see this before.
Lynda Bonner, I can't reply to your comment, but just wanted to say a big THANK YOU for your kind words! I can't take credit for this method, everything I learned was from the facebook group Hot Process Soapmakers. There are tons of wonderfully fluid swirls going on there! I think the difference is keeping it fluid, which could be done by adding water, or by keeping it warm and covered, which helps prevent it from losing water and starting to set up. I love HP!
Stephanie Graham Well, SIGN ME UP! LOL
Lynda Bonner lol, I'm not an admin there, but it's a great group. I can tell an admin you are here to learn (and not sell sunglasses, lol).
Beautiful! I've got to get my hands on some of that Golden Green.
What's funny is that is doesn't look that bright when it's dry, so that was a fun surprise for me.
Oh no!
lol, I was happy that it was brighter. But that's why I like to try them out, fewer surprises. :)
HOLEEEE SMOKES, that's the prettiest hot process I think I've ever seen! I've done CP for going on 20 years, and have been looking into HP, but it never looks as pretty to me as CP does. I guess it's the chunkiness of most batters. Do you think it's your adding the water back in with the colorant that makes it so smooth?
+Lynda Bonner Thank you so much! I don't think I was able to reply previously. It is the extra water that makes this so fluid. However, it also caused this soap to set up with a U shaped top, and later it shrunk with somewhat warped sides to each bar. I now use 40%, and add sodium lactate, which gives great fluidity without so much extra water.
just gorgeous I love how fluid your hot process soap is
Thank you! This one just had lots of water, and while it was fluid, it ended up with a "swayback" or U shaped top as it set up, and got somewhat warped sides over time. I add sodium lactate now to get nice fluidity without the other problems.
Oh how beautiful 🤩
Thank you! 😊
This is brilliant! Thank you!
+All InOne Thank you! So sorry I didn't see this previously.
Thank you for your videos, I really enjoy them. Do you have a video showing how to make hot process soap? I have been making cold process for two years and I now want to try hot process. Thank you
Pat Lantinga Thank you! I generally don’t do a full tutorial, but I’ll tell you who does. Valerie at Shalebrook Handcrafted Soaps generously shares several ways she makes HP along with recipes.
Wowwww! Ive been looking for a great swirl technique for hot process. I found my answer! This is beautiful. What is the purpose of the salt and sugar? Is that to make a smoother more manageable base that accepts swirls better? Would you mind sharing what % water of your oils you use or is it more of an eyeballed texture thing?
Thanks! I didn't make this up, I've learned so much on Facebook groups. The sugar is for more bubbles, and the sea salt helps harden up the bars faster because of the extra water. The sea salt also makes unmolding a breeze. :)
I love this! Thank you for sharing it!
Thank you!
Gorgeous!!
Thank you so much! I'm so sorry that I am just now replying to your comment, I had trouble seeing them, my apologies!
So glad I found this video! Truly an eye opener. May I ask if you had to keep the extra water to dilute the colored batter warm?
Carol Khoo, thank you! At this point in my soap making I wasn’t keeping the batter warm. I think I was just lucky that it didn’t set up, or I added so much water that it stayed fluid. When I make HP I cover it or place it in a warm bath. For more advice on techniques, I highly recommend Shalebrook Farms Handcrafted Soap. Valerie is so helpful and generous, and she makes HP much more often than I do.
love it! Can you please tell me, what is the effect of adding the extra liquid after the cook, aside from the obvious of it making the batter more fluid for swirls and such? Are there any other things to consider when making HP soap this way?
While I don't add this much liquid to my HP anymore, the whole point was to get more fluidity. If you are adding a superfat, or some delicate ingredient, after the cook would be the best time to add it. What ended up happening with this soap is that it had a sunken top, after it cured. I have learned more about getting a fluid HP since. It doesn't hurt to have extra water, it just takes longer to cure, and it may get the sunken in top look.
0:54 to clarify, you discounted half your water, cooked it and then added the missing water after the cook? Did you superfat?
Thanks for asking, I'm sorry I missed this until now. That was a long time ago, but I believe what I did was use a 50% water amount, instead of the default of 38%. But I started with half of that amount, then added the other half after the cook. I wouldn't use that much now, I would just use 38% and add sodium lactate, yogurt, and most importantly, not over cook. I have learned a lot since then, lol. But also, I do CP now for testing fragrances and colors, and my HP skills are rusty. This was early on, when I tried more water to get more fluidity. It worked, but it set up wonky, with a U shaped top and eventually warped sides as the water cured out. I don't recommend that much water, but I learned the hard way.
Hi again, love your videos. What do you mix your micas with? Thank you, Pat
Hi Pat! When I make hot process soap I mix the micas with water. If I’m making cold process I use a light oil or part of the melted oils for the soap.
Is this 40% or maybe more 3:41 water to be so fluid?
This is beautiful! What are you using for the hangar swirl tool?
Tammy Binning Thank you! I bought a thin steel rod and some tubing from a home improvement store, and bent the rod to fit my mold. It was actually overkill, but better than a plastic hanger. I use gear ties now, which may not be as stiff, but they are reposition-able.
Fantastic..What is the ratio between lye:water
Thankyou
I used 50% water as a percentage of oil weight, I didn't calculate the lye to water ratio (and I don't have that formula saved anymore). I don't suggest this much water anymore though, as it sets up with a deep U shape, and it takes longer to cure out. I'm sorry for such a late reply!
how long does it has to cure with that much of water? thank you soooooooooooooooooooo much
Nathalie Breault It is about a week longer than my HP without so much water. But I'm not usually in a hurry, except for seeing what's inside. ;)
and your other one is cured for how long?
Nathalie Breault I use it right away, but a week or two cure time is better if I want it to last longer.
Oh, Yes you make my day. Thank you
Melissa, I don't see a way for me to reply to your comment directly. I don't know why adding extra water wouldn't make it more fluid. How much water did you reserve for after the cook? I am currently doing 40% water, then I just save a few ounces for after the cook. I THEN add whatever amount of liquid (water or milk) to make it the fluidity that I want. Did you happen to take a picture of what it looked like? I"m sorry it didn't work out right, I hope you will keep trying! And thank you for your kind words, I'm glad you like the video. :)
Oh my Stephanie,
I have been researching how to make fluid hp soap for a while. I have heard some who stick blend the whole way through, add SL and yogurt and or coconut milk to at the end. But I have never been able to put the whole thing together. Thanks for posting this video and explaining the water discount so well. But why the sugar and salt? Did you say the quantity is 1 tsp. per pound of oils? Thanks !
+Teal Allshouse, thank you, I'm glad to share what I do. I made this a while ago, and I am still experimenting. I always keep my soap warm now (in a little crock pot type water bath) while mixing the other colors. Adding SL, yogurt, and glycerine (and sugar) also help with fluidity. I would like to lower the water amount a bit, since it can make the soaps sink in the middle over time. There are so many things to try!
Cool, how much sugar per pound do you use. I also see some people use sea salt? Not sure when to add stuff in, also how much yogurt, etc and when ! Your vismds are worth their weight in Gold !
+Teal Allshouse LOL, oh, don't put me up there. I learned from Facebook soap groups, and sometimes trial and error. I'm still trying and have errors! I use between 5 to 10% PPO of sugar, added to the water that I reserve for after the cook (now that is, I used to put it in all of the water, but added after is supposed to help with fluidity). I also add sea salt, 1/2 to 1 teaspoon PPO added to the water BEFORE the lye is added to the water. That part is important or your lye might not dissolve all the way.
Quantos dias esse sabonete leva para ficar durinho? 🇧🇷
I let this cure for the usual 6-8 weeks, but it's been a long time so I'm not sure when it stopped losing weight.
The extra water you added,is that part of 33% water and lye mix or is that on top of it. Thanks
The water I added was in addition to what I started with, and I paid the price for using that much. As it set up the soap "sunk" in the middle. I was still learning how to make soap fluid without tons of water, and now I rely on sodium lactate, yogurt, keeping the soap warm, and mostly not over cooking it.
I love our videos! I wish you would make more of them :) I see that you do not have gloves after the soap has "cooked" At what point is of to handle and the lye is not dangerous? Thank you.
Thank you! I do plan to make more videos. Running the co-op group takes up a lot of time. Hopefully over my November and December break I will do that. The soap has gone through soponification once it has gelled, or passed the "zap" test (not zap if you touch a small amount to your tongue, cooled a bit of course). It is still hot, so be careful! There may be a small amount of oils that are not finished, but if you get some on your skin, if the temperature is cool enough, it won't hurt you. I take scrapings from the crock pot and test the soap right away each time.
Hi Steph. your swirls are beautiful. I am just learning HP and wonder if you can offer any tips on fluidity? Does it really matter how much H2O we use so long as fluidity is achieved? Also, besides the tongue test, what other ways can we test if the soap is cooked?
As far as the testing, I have only used the zap test. However, there is a chemical called Phenolphthalein that you can use to test as well. The zap test doesn't bother me, since usually when I check it it's nearly done, or done.
I've always been leery of making soap with this much color. No staining the washcloths? It sure is inspirational. Thanks for sharing your method. ( from BubbleBee Soapworks)
Thank you! I have no idea why I didn't see this 7 months ago. I go through my email but I think youtube hides things and randomly posts them, lol. Mica is a cosmetic pigment, and when added to soap you are not likely to get staining, though sometimes colored bubbles. If it is a very concentrated color, it can come off on the washcloth. I have only had a red that I couldn't get out just by hand washing.
Stephanie I have a question for you. I often see soapers adding reserved fluid after the cook for fluidity but how much of a water reduction do you use in what size batch.
+talwicca I'm sorry I didn't see this before. I start with 40% water, and hold back a few ounces. But really, I hate to say "it doesn't matter" but, well, it doesn't matter how much water you use. You add if it's too dry or too thick. It will not change the reaction of the lye with the oils, it will just make it more fluid.
Thanks Stephanie, Are you saying the salt is important ti add to the lye water because, when you discount the water to add back at the end, the salt helps that smaller amount of water dissolve?
+Teal Allshouse, I believe that the salt will help the soap get harder faster, though I don't know the exact chemical reason. However, please be sure that you know that if you try to add salt to lye water, the lye might not dissolve well. Then you have to throw out that batch of lye water and start over. Lye chunks should never go into your oils, a stick blender will likely not make it dissolve once it's in chunks. Either add the salt to the water first, or save until after the cook and you can add dissolved salt in the reserved water.
In hp what you use to mix your color water or oil? Thank you 😊
For HP I usually use water. I haven't made any in a long time, but I haven't had any issue with water with mica.
So do you use 38% water to cook the soap? And than add extra 50% after cook? Or what I’m a little lost I wanna try please this is by far the best Hp I’ve seen so far I love making hp soaps
You're so kind, thank you! I did not cook it with all of the water. I only used half for the cook, then added the rest after. I don't make HP as much (I test the micas and fragrances in CP), but for someone way better at HP, you can also watch Valerie Mosher's videos at Shalebrook Handcrafted Soaps:
ua-cam.com/channels/LYte9VZzTnhDXkbFeY_RTg.htmlvideos
When you say you use 5 % sugar, is that 5% before and 5% after? Or is that 5% split overall?Might also post this question in the HP FB group
christine1962ful I don't remember the percentage of sugar, but I just use one tablespoon per pound of oils now. I dissolve it in all of the water, then I dissolve all of the sea salt in the water. I split that water in half, and set half aside. The other half is what I add the lye to.
hello where did you get your hanger from? if you made it where did you get the plastic straw from? Thanks
Hi, I'm sorry I missed this from so long ago, my apologies. That is a hanger tool that I made from a piece of steel from a home improvement store. I covered it in plastic tubing (from the same store), and then bent it to fit the mold size. It was great at the time, but I didn't continue to use that mold, and the hanger tool only fit that mold. I prefer the gear ties that I carry in my store and that you see in other videos. They can be bent to fit a variety of molds.
Hi Stephanie is the water you are thinning them out with minused from your lye water amount or extra? does it need to sit for weeks to dry out?
+Sue Sue How did I miss all of these comment? My apologies! I reserve a few ounces out of an initial 40% water (just water, sea salt, and sugar, NOT the lye). I add extra water until it's fluid enough for swirling. Most of my HP done this way is nice and hard by 3 weeks. The sea salt will help with that, but so will sodium lactate if you prefer that.
And now we know we don't want to try 7 colors in a 2 pound mold! Until we are as good as you ;)
LOL, that's a lot of colors! If it's fluid enough, it won't set up on you. :)
Does adding water after the saponification affect the hardness of the soap?
Once it has cured the bars are just as hard as the same recipe with less water. It just takes a little longer for the water to evaporate out.
Ist the extra water you are adding to the colored soap, cold, warm or hot?
Diana Cyrill I would only add warm water now, but at the time it may have been room temperature, I’m not certain anymore, I’m sorry.
May I ask how you keep your hot process soap so fluid? Everytime I do hot process it always turns out thick and clump. No way to get a swirl in it. I love these colors!!! Stunning
+czintx Thank you! I have learned from the groups I'm in to start with more water (I'm using 40% now), and I reserve a few ounces until after the cook. Also watch carefully that it doesn't get over cooked. Once it's done, I add back my reserved water, and basically add more to each colored part of soap before I mold it. I don't measure, it's just until I'm happy with it. Adding plain yogurt will help a lot too, because it has sodium lactate. You can buy SL too, both will help with fluidity.
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) Thank you so much for the quick response. I have added all your videos to my watch playlist and hope that you make some more. I am going to find a basic recipe and see if I can add more water to it and try it out. Thank you again!
+czintx That's exactly how I learned. :) Watch, try, repeat. Have fun!
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) When you say you're using 40%...what does that mean exactly? 40% concentration of lye? Or 40% of the water called for in your formulation?
What I mean is that I am using 40% of the weight of the oils. The default is usually 38%, but higher will give you more fluidity.
Are you cooking at high or low temp? Soap looks amazing!
+Craftlover 9 I'm sorry I missed this before. I usually cook on high, and if it starts to separate I use a whisk. If I am doing a milk soap with milk replacement for all of the water, I'll cook on low. I don't do that much anymore, I'll just add milk after the cook.
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) Thank you!
Love the finish product. What kind of hanger is that, was it made special for you or can it be purchased and bent to fit the need of the owner? Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! This was a lot of fun, but because of the extra water it cured out with a U shaped top. I've since found better ways to keep it fluid without just adding so much water. That hanger tool is a piece of steel rod I got from a home improvement store along with some clear tubing. Then I bent it to fit this mold, which I no longer use. So if you DIY one, be sure you really like the mold, lol. Now I use a gear tie that can be re-shaped for any size mold I have. If you look at my more recent videos you can see what I use now, but this one was one of a kind. It was an inexpensive project, but now I don't use it.
GOod job. So was that some of your reserve water that you were pouring into the colored soap at different times?
Yes, I reserved about half of my water and that's what I was using when I added a bit at a time. I needed a little more for the last color though.
Thank you!
Stephanie Graham so could you put lessof the total amount to start and reserve a larger portion? For example, if using 40% h2O, could you use 20% in the cook and add the other 20 at the end?
christine1962ful Yes, that's what I do. I first check to make sure that the water that I'm putting the lye in is twice the weight of the lye. I want to be sure it dissolves well.
Stephanie Graham Stephanie, this is so amazing! You're amazing, thank you so much!!!
Hi! I'm new to your channel and I'm liking your vids!
However, I'm new to HP soap making (all soap making, in general) and I notice how your soap is very fluid.
You mentioned added 50% of water. I'm wondering if you needed to add any superfat on top of that? And how long, proximately, does your soap need to sit for dry?
Also, with the coloring. If I'm to use mica, do I need to add normal color with the mica too?
Thank you in advance. And also sorry for so many questions and my lack in Eng!
Hi, thanks for writing. I used 50% water for this soap, but I haven't used that much since, because it can cause the soap to set up with somewhat warped sides as it dries out. I use closer to 40% now, along with sodium lactate to help with fluidity during the pour. The superfat is completely separate from the water amount. I usually set my SF to 2%, cook as normal, then add 5% or so after the cook. This soap took at least a month to set up, though it varies, and I've had soap that is fairly hard by a week or two. Mica is a wonderful soap colorant all on it's own, as long as it is tested and shown to be soap stable. You are fine asking as many questions as you like, I'm glad to share. I did not have any difficulty understanding your questions here, so no troubles!
Stephanie Graham thank you so much! I tried your tips just now, also added yoghurt for more fluidity. The soap got more fluid and I was able to even out my soap before it dry out! Thanks
Hi Stephanie, could you explain a little more about water discounting? This is where I got confused, when you say use 40% to 50% of water do you mean split total water amount called for in the recipe in half and use one half for Lye sugar salt mix and the other half of water,sugar and salt mix for color adding? Or do you mean to use only half of the water called for in the recipe all together and then split that in half as well for lye and color solution? Thank you in advance you soap is Beautiful! :) Anastasia
+FlowerRemedy, thanks for asking. I use a 40% (not so much 50% anymore) water amount. That means if you take the number that is your oil amount (lets say 20 ounces) you multiply that number by 0.4, which equals 8. So for a batch of soap that calls for 20 ounces of oils, and you want to use 40% water, that means your total water amount is 8 ounces. For the total water amount, I add my sea salt and sugar first, and stir until it's dissolved. Then I will remove about half of that amount, and set it aside. I will add it after the cook. The remaining water is what I add my lye to, stir, and then add to the oils already melted in the pot. Once the soap is done cooking, I will then add the water that I set aside at the beginning. You need to be sure that you use at least as much water in weight as your lye weighs, and of course always adding the lye to the water, never the other way around. All I'm saying here is do not "reserve" so much water for after the cook that you are not using enough water to dissolve the lye. I make sure I am using twice the lye weight amount in water, just to be sure it dissolves properly. Once the soap is cooked, and I add my reserved water (warmed, so it doesn't make the soap seize up), then I color individual portions. If you keep the colored and "not yet colored" soap warm, it will likely not start to set up on you too much. I use little crock warmers for that. I used to add water willy-nilly, to make the soap as fluid as I want it, but that can lead to warping as the water cures out. It works to get great fluidity, but it doesn't look quite as nice later. There are some great tutorials out there as soapers continue to try new techniques. I'll be trying adding a higher percentage of sugar next. Thank you so much for your kind words. I really loved making this soap, and I'm really happy with the look. I hope I have helped you and not made it worse with my very wordy answer. ;)
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) thank you Stephanie i Love your lengthy reply
LOL, that's awesome! I tend to do that. :) I'm glad it was helpful.
+Stephanie Graham (Micas and More) Excellent explanation! Thank you very much!
Hi! I wanna know after how many hours, days or weeks could I use the soap using FHPM? Thanks a lot!
Alina Voda, you can use any hot process soap as soon as you can handle it. I scrape out my mixing bowls and crock pot, and smash them together, while still warm, into soap balls, and test while the loaf is still setting up. The soap will last longer and some argue gets better over time. Once it is cut and the bars stop losing weight, that's when I consider them "ready."
Thank you and I want you to know that I appreciate your work!
Stephanie what does ppo mean?
+Karen Lemperle I'm sorry, soaping lingo, it's per pound of oils. I would weight out exact amounts for fragrance oil, but with colorant I usually measure by cups.
How much water did you use in this recipe?
+Alvin Smith I'm so sorry I didn't see your question. I believe in this soap I used 50%, but I have since cut back, and I start with 40%. I set a few ounces of water aside that has the sea salt and sugar added (but NOT the lye), and add that after. Then I add water a little at a time right before putting each color in the mold. If it's too thick, I add more.
thank you
You're welcome
Where u got your mold?
This one was made with corrugated plastic. I have a video tutorial on making a slab mold with the same method.
ua-cam.com/video/2QUuZz2bEsM/v-deo.htmlsi=1OtAAAOgmUMbqtPF
How do you the swirls.. Couldn't understand..
After I layered in the different colors of soap, I used a metal rod covered in plastic tubing, and bent in a "U" shape, to swirl the colors around. I hope that helps.
@@micasandmore No it didn't help..
In what shape swirls are done... Can you explain when you put the U shape rod inside the batter.. Then how you swirl is my query
Let me try again. I moved the hanger tool up and down, moving from one side to the other. Then I did some circles, the best I can tell from re-watching it.
Nice! Your water ratio was 50% instead of 38?
***** Yes, I start with 50%. But since some of it cooks out, it's not the same as doing CP with 50%.
Wow! It's so fluid. Can it sit and also be able to do piping? Or would you suggest piping with some of it before adding the remainder of the half of the 50%?
***** I have never tried piping, so I really couldn't say. Sorry I also realized I'm signed in as my husband, OOPS! This is Stephanie.
Ok thanks! Lol I saw that but I knew it was a mistake.
I must have used my husband's account to reply, sorry for any confusion. I was clearing out comments that I didn't reply to yet and saw that.
I could not hear this video and I had the volume on the video and on the computer turned up as high as it would go.
I'm sorry, there must be something wrong that I can't fix on my end. It is set so that at 50% volume it should be a comfortable listening level.
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