I use an angled flat metal tool to sneak underneath the cog. I but the end against the pivot post and using the raised side-plate center-mass as a lever point, pop the cog from it's mount. This works well on older models. But ABU seems to be using a more rigid plastic for the idle gear in newer models and these can be very hard to budge. Applying a stream hot air from a hair dryer for 30 -60 seconds will soften the plastic sufficiently to pop the cog without causing any damage. A drop of lube also helps to expedite removal.
Thanks for the video. I will be upgrading to the cog wheel with a bearing in my ambassaduer C4 very soon. Mine has a lot of play in it and also I can feel the gears when I reel it…😣 Hopefully that will help.
That is by far the best way to remove the cog I have seen other video of a guy using a string under the cog and popping it off the stud which is ok but once in a while that stud will pop out with the cog and that is not good about 1 out of 10 it seems are not fastened well enough to do that. But cutting and replacing with an e-clip or a removable cog is the best senecio by far.👍🏼
Saw another video where the reel mechanic looped a piece of 60 pound test line under the large cog. That let him get a straight up pull on the cog and it popped off without cutting the rim.
First rule, don't force it. If you cut the lip off slowly and gently then if you are going to re-use the cog using an 'e' clip to hold in place it will spin much freer, ie faster. NB, I tend to install a bearing in the cog before re-use so a mute point anyway!
Also a pair of bent snap ring pliers works well. Allows you to put an even amount of pressure on both sides. Better than a screwdriver. Love your vids and reels. Keep it up.
Scratching the inside of the side plate is the least of anyone's worries. Removing the idler gear with a screwdriver from underneath is just the beginning of ones problems. Doing it that way you risk loosening or worse completely removing the post which is only pressed in. Even the slightest bit of leverage by a screwdriver or even surgical clamps (as some shops use) will damage the gear axle or post (if you want to call it) permanently throws everything out of alignment which will create horrible noises between the worm shaft gear, the idler gear and spool gear, during the cast and retrieval Resulting and having to replace the entire side plate. Better to be safe than sorry so replace the idler gear as well. You got to remember the side plates are only made out of aluminum and are subject to bending very easily. I know this because I did it myself. Now I'm out $32 from Abu Garcia for a new side plate, idler gear, and the strip decal that goes around the side plate. Now that I know this, next time I will be cutting it off with a knife. All I can say is thank God that the parts that I had to replace are still available. Considering this Abu Garcia C4 is from 09.
doesn't it free that cogwheel up quite a bit just cutting the plastic off, putting a retaining clip there and then a drop of oil on that post?? and then obviously the next step would be buying a fancy part with bearings... just curious if that simple DIY would increase casting distance or at least make the reel feel smoother
nice smith intro., but the drag still sucks on my 5000c (vintage). It's just one drag. i fish salmon +15lbs...anyway to pimp the drag to the strength of the 3 drag newer reels?
Change the gears to modern version that take 4 drag washers or get some CarbonTex sheet and cut 2 drags and put a slim washer between. It will be the same thickness as the single washer you have installed but will give 50% more drag
What's so bad about scratching the side plate a bit? The seal won't ever be perfect considering it's metal to metal anyway? Also, upgrading the main drive cog you remove in this video with a version with bearing, does it really improve performace/casting distance that much? The other cog on the spool that connects to it is still nylon/plastic material
Why is it since I've removed the level wind from my abu 6500 beast I've got a high pitched ratchet sound when casting, it's as if the ratchet keeps coming on but it can't, is it something in the gear side that is affected since I've took the level wind off ????
Without seeing the reel I cannot be sure but it sounds like the spool levelwind drive cog is hitting something. Try taking the levelwind main drive cog out of the side plate. The trouble is this is not a good reel, its an Abu 6500S with a one piece cage. The spool and spindle are one piece like the 1970's Abu reels and the BST one piece cage is not made to have the levelwind removed. The bearings are in the float chambers, also similar to the 1970's Abu reels. The reason Abu have made this type of reel again after 30 years is it is much cheaper to manufacture than the Abu reels of recent years with separate spool and spindle design which have superior casting abilities.
This was a great help for me to remove the level wind from my 6500 c3 classic, thanks for posting.
I use an angled flat metal tool to sneak underneath the cog. I but the end against the pivot post and using the raised side-plate center-mass as a lever point, pop the cog from it's mount. This works well on older models.
But ABU seems to be using a more rigid plastic for the idle gear in newer models and these can be very hard to budge. Applying a stream hot air from a hair dryer for 30 -60 seconds will soften the plastic sufficiently to pop the cog without causing any damage.
A drop of lube also helps to expedite removal.
I like the hot air from a hair dryer idea, thank you for your input!!
I dip the cog in boiling water for a few seconds and pop it off with a butter knife. Easy, and it can be reused without having to use a c-clip.
Good idea!!
Cut it like in this video and use a standard 3mm C clip.
Thanks for the video. I will be upgrading to the cog wheel with a bearing in my ambassaduer C4 very soon. Mine has a lot of play in it and also I can feel the gears when I reel it…😣 Hopefully that will help.
That is by far the best way to remove the cog I have seen other video of a guy using a string under the cog and popping it off the stud which is ok but once in a while that stud will pop out with the cog and that is not good about 1 out of 10 it seems are not fastened well enough to do that. But cutting and replacing with an e-clip or a removable cog is the best senecio by far.👍🏼
I just purchased a 7000 pro rocket and would like to upgrade as much as possible. All I see is videos for the 6500.
Saw another video where the reel mechanic looped a piece of 60 pound test line under the large cog. That let him get a straight up pull on the cog and it popped off without cutting the rim.
First rule, don't force it. If you cut the lip off slowly and gently then if you are going to re-use the cog using an 'e' clip to hold in place it will spin much freer, ie faster. NB, I tend to install a bearing in the cog before re-use so a mute point anyway!
@@PimpMyReel , pardon me! You said you were open to suggestions. My mistake.
@@scottdeatherage1810 Was not criticizing just passing on information.....
Nicely done!
I take 2 foot or so of 30lb mono, run it underneath the cog around the outside edge. One swift pull up and it pops off fairly easy.
Thank you, I knew someone would have a better way 👍😊 I love the power of UA-cam
Also a pair of bent snap ring pliers works well. Allows you to put an even amount of pressure on both sides. Better than a screwdriver. Love your vids and reels. Keep it up.
Please can you make an info video to help folks with this, I would really appreciate it.
Thank you
I'll try to. Not all that great at making videos. Have to find some time as well.
Scratching the inside of the side plate is the least of anyone's worries.
Removing the idler gear with a screwdriver from underneath is just the beginning of ones problems.
Doing it that way you risk loosening or worse completely removing the post which is only pressed in. Even the slightest bit of leverage by a screwdriver or even surgical clamps (as some shops use) will damage the gear axle or post (if you want to call it) permanently throws everything out of alignment which will create horrible noises between the worm shaft gear, the idler gear and spool gear, during the cast and retrieval
Resulting and having to replace the entire side plate.
Better to be safe than sorry so replace the idler gear as well. You got to remember the side plates are only made out of aluminum and are subject to bending very easily.
I know this because I did it myself.
Now I'm out $32 from Abu Garcia for a new side plate, idler gear, and the strip decal that goes around the side plate.
Now that I know this, next time I will be cutting it off with a knife.
All I can say is thank God that the parts that I had to replace are still available. Considering this Abu Garcia C4 is from 09.
От души братан! Красава!
I have over forty Ambassadors and none have this cog retaining ridge. Is this only on older reels?
doesn't it free that cogwheel up quite a bit just cutting the plastic off, putting a retaining clip there and then a drop of oil on that post?? and then obviously the next step would be buying a fancy part with bearings... just curious if that simple DIY would increase casting distance or at least make the reel feel smoother
I wonder if you can get a heat gun on the plastic until its soft enough to slip over the lip.
Where do I get the upgraded cog wheel in USA.
nice smith intro., but the drag still sucks on my 5000c (vintage). It's just one drag. i fish salmon +15lbs...anyway to pimp the drag to the strength of the 3 drag newer reels?
Change the gears to modern version that take 4 drag washers or get some CarbonTex sheet and cut 2 drags and put a slim washer between. It will be the same thickness as the single washer you have installed but will give 50% more drag
What's so bad about scratching the side plate a bit? The seal won't ever be perfect considering it's metal to metal anyway? Also, upgrading the main drive cog you remove in this video with a version with bearing, does it really improve performace/casting distance that much? The other cog on the spool that connects to it is still nylon/plastic material
Tackle tarts worry about tiny scratches lol
Were can I get Abu Garcia Ambassador Lille 4601CU Cog Wheel upgrade were can I order one ?
Is the new black gear plastic too but with a ball bearing?
Video posted to my channel on the removal. Not the best but it's there
just use a bit of braid and it pops right off. no sharp knives needed.
Can I add on the level wind to my reel?
How much
Why is it since I've removed the level wind from my abu 6500 beast I've got a high pitched ratchet sound when casting, it's as if the ratchet keeps coming on but it can't, is it something in the gear side that is affected since I've took the level wind off ????
Without seeing the reel I cannot be sure but it sounds like the spool levelwind drive cog is hitting something. Try taking the levelwind main drive cog out of the side plate.
The trouble is this is not a good reel, its an Abu 6500S with a one piece cage. The spool and spindle are one piece like the 1970's Abu reels and the BST one piece cage is not made to have the levelwind removed. The bearings are in the float chambers, also similar to the 1970's Abu reels.
The reason Abu have made this type of reel again after 30 years is it is much cheaper to manufacture than the Abu reels of recent years with separate spool and spindle design which have superior casting abilities.
Yeah that one was made in China. You can tell it has plastic gears.