My dad worked for Boeing. He started in about 1947ish and began his career on the B-47 line. I acquired a B-47 a year or so back. I look forward to using your techniques to make the Stratojet look super! Thanks for posting this video!
As usual, another great video. Thanks for taking the time to share. I always find it interesting the number of people on UA-cam that don't know proper spray paint technique. They really should watch this video or stop trying to "teach" how to paint a model. When my dad got me started modeling at probably 6 or 7, that's how he thought me how to spray using long strokes, never stopping or starting on the piece and apply several thin coats to avoid ugly pooling. So I always do at least 4 coats rotating the piece 90 degrees between each coat so the paint is shot from each compass point, unless I trying to paint in a "shadow".
Great video Spencer, learned a lot from it. I have two big silver projects coming up so the techniques you shown in the video I will definitely be using. Let’s have more.
G'day Spencer, This is the first video of yours I've seen and on the strength of this alone, I've subscribed and 'rang the bell'. An outstandingly simple technique that really works! I'm involved in a multi-model build to celebrate the 100th birthday of the RAAF. Many of our significant aircraft types at the end of WW2 and into the 60s and 70s came to us with bare metal finish, like our C-130As and Es; our post-war P-51s, Vampires, CA-27 Avon Sabres etc. etc. Now, here's the twist. I was crestfallen when you said at the start of this video that your technique won't work with brushing. But I watched to the end and after a little thought I did as you did, using Tamiya AS-12 then decanting it, as you do. I then used Tamiya acrylic thinner with various Tamiya metal and silver paints, plus some of AK's brilliant range of intense metal paints. I made very thin batches of various metal shades and applied multiple coats with a synthetic, wide, flat brush. The first few coats look awful but as they build up one starts to see the end result that you achieved with an airbrush. Of course, my technique takes longer, although the drying time isn't too long. By adapting your technique with my brushing, I've achieved the best bare metal finish I've ever had in many years of modelling. (I'm too old now to learn airbrushing besides I'm on a pension and money is tight.) There were no airbrushes around when I started modelling and I just never got around to them when they became common. Thank you so much for your tips and advice. Cheers, BH, ex-RAAF
Hi Spencer, Nice simple technique that achieves brilliant results, never seen the dust coat technique used on metal finishes before. Does the colour used for the dust coat make a difference, I noticed you used the brightest colour for this.
Hi Spencer, Fantastic tutorial thank you so much for sharing, Just one quick question, i see you mixed acrylic paint to the Tamiya lacquer to create the shades. I guess this is ok to do then and does not react in any way. Thanks again.
Thank you for sharing, Spencer. After using your technique, what would you recommend for applying decals (i.e., setting solution and overcoat to hide decal lines after drying)?
Hi Spencer, can you spray the Tamiya paint over an acrylic primer? Most modeling videos about NMF I have watched recommend a gloss black primer. Is this necessary?
Hi Spencer, great tutorial. One question, I saw that you used a hairdryer to dry the paint, did you use it with a heat setting or just blowing room temperature air? Thanks indeed and you got a new subscriber. Cheers
Good video informative but it must agree with the other viewers. Always good to get to the point since us UA-camrs get impatient.😂😂😂 my question is you mentioned a silver paint in a jar and why did you not use that instead of taking it from an aerosol can? Tamaya also makes a more expensive paint called TS 83 with simulates an aluminum and have you seen that or tried it? I plan on painting my model and found your video. Very informative.
Really enjoyed the video. As a huge P-51 fan I am endeavoring to tackle one soon, but have always been intimidated about pulling off a realistic, scale bare aluminum scheme. I do have a question, however: Is the spray Tamiya paint an actual lacquer spray paint? Or is it a solvent-based acrylic, sometimes called 'lacquer'?
It is a lacquer in the sense that it cannot me thinned with either water or mineral spirits such as turpentine. Most modern lacquers have acrylic bases, so in that sense it is solvent based. To use this technique, the paint must be thinned with lacquer thinners, Mr Color Thinner and yellow-top Tamiya thinners being perfect... Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the reply, Spencer. I worked in the (full scale) aircraft industry for many years, and prior to seeing your video, I have often wondered if masking and using variations - not only of hue, but of texture - on panels at the primer level wouldn't provide an additional degree of realism for bare metal aircraft. Most removable panels or doors are heavier structural aluminum (as they cannot be part of the semi-monocoque structure) and therefore don't tend to utilize skin-quality (high gloss & luster) aluminum. Anyway, I have subscribed and enjoy your thoughtful videos very much. Having re-entered the hobby somewhat late in life I am always looking for great content. Do you have any modeler channels that you might suggest? It's rather hit-or-miss out there...
7 years on! Not sure if you're picking up comments but, do you find the Super Metallic paint durable for handling, masking etc? I'm trying to go water-based acrylic where possible to cut out the smell - have you used any water-based acrylic metallic paints that you can recommend?
Thanks so much for this tutorial but I’ve got a really basic question: I didn’t see you shake up the Tamiya spray can at all - did you do this before hand?
@@jose_s_bam7938 - he just said he's in Portugal. They use Centigrade, and it gets very warm there. If you need to convert to Fahrenheit then I suggest that you find a conversion calculator. Personally, being middle-aged and British, I understand both.
Less annoying way to decant aerosols. Place it upside down on the table and let sit for a while. Then drill a tiny hole in the bottom. Place a quarter over the hole and ignore it for a few hours. Pick it up, and shake after putting a bit of tape over the hole to mix well. Then open the bottom with a can opener and pour into your jar.
Very! I was wondering. I have a Tu-134 Zvezda model that I made custom flaps for so I could make it in landing config. I have not touched it since because painting scares the shit out of me. I need to do a few models before I ever finish her.
Video production tip. Don't waste the first 10 minutes jabbering about what you don't use and how you don't do it. Get to the meat or peop[le will click away.
Outstanding, So simple, with out all the hoopla we find all over the modeling sites and facebook.
That was the best tutorial I've seen on this subject. This will translate perfectly into a few sci-fi projects. Thank you.
Very helpful!! Painting natural metal finishes have always been something I have always found difficult to pull off convincingly! Thanks Spence!
Great tutorial, straightforward and thorough. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
My dad worked for Boeing. He started in about 1947ish and began his career on the B-47 line. I acquired a B-47 a year or so back. I look forward to using your techniques to make the Stratojet look super! Thanks for posting this video!
As usual, another great video. Thanks for taking the time to share. I always find it interesting the number of people on UA-cam that don't know proper spray paint technique. They really should watch this video or stop trying to "teach" how to paint a model. When my dad got me started modeling at probably 6 or 7, that's how he thought me how to spray using long strokes, never stopping or starting on the piece and apply several thin coats to avoid ugly pooling. So I always do at least 4 coats rotating the piece 90 degrees between each coat so the paint is shot from each compass point, unless I trying to paint in a "shadow".
Brilliant tutorial, thanks Spencer!
Great video Spencer, learned a lot from it. I have two big silver projects coming up so the techniques you shown in the video I will definitely be using. Let’s have more.
G'day Spencer, This is the first video of yours I've seen and on the strength of this alone, I've subscribed and 'rang the bell'. An outstandingly simple technique that really works!
I'm involved in a multi-model build to celebrate the 100th birthday of the RAAF. Many of our significant aircraft types at the end of WW2 and into the 60s and 70s came to us with bare metal finish, like our C-130As and Es; our post-war P-51s, Vampires, CA-27 Avon Sabres etc. etc.
Now, here's the twist. I was crestfallen when you said at the start of this video that your technique won't work with brushing. But I watched to the end and after a little thought I did as you did, using Tamiya AS-12 then decanting it, as you do. I then used Tamiya acrylic thinner with various Tamiya metal and silver paints, plus some of AK's brilliant range of intense metal paints. I made very thin batches of various metal shades and applied multiple coats with a synthetic, wide, flat brush. The first few coats look awful but as they build up one starts to see the end result that you achieved with an airbrush. Of course, my technique takes longer, although the drying time isn't too long.
By adapting your technique with my brushing, I've achieved the best bare metal finish I've ever had in many years of modelling. (I'm too old now to learn airbrushing besides I'm on a pension and money is tight.) There were no airbrushes around when I started modelling and I just never got around to them when they became common.
Thank you so much for your tips and advice. Cheers, BH, ex-RAAF
Hi Spencer, Nice simple technique that achieves brilliant results, never seen the dust coat technique used on metal finishes before. Does the colour used for the dust coat make a difference, I noticed you used the brightest colour for this.
Very cool. Thank you.
Hi Spencer, Fantastic tutorial thank you so much for sharing, Just one quick question, i see you mixed acrylic paint to the Tamiya lacquer to create the shades. I guess this is ok to do then and does not react in any way. Thanks again.
awesome work I will try this ty for sharing its awesome we can all learn form each other in this great hobby keep them coming
Thank you for sharing, Spencer. After using your technique, what would you recommend for applying decals (i.e., setting solution and overcoat to hide decal lines after drying)?
Just brilliant (pun intended) - can you list the paints that you used as I didn't quite catch all the brands and colours.
Tamiya Bare Metal Silver and Gunze Mr Hobby dark grey.
Hi Spencer, can you spray the Tamiya paint over an acrylic primer? Most modeling videos about NMF I have watched recommend a gloss black primer. Is this necessary?
Thanks for this Spencer, just subbed in mate
Hi Spencer, great tutorial. One question, I saw that you used a hairdryer to dry the paint, did you use it with a heat setting or just blowing room temperature air? Thanks indeed and you got a new subscriber. Cheers
Good video informative but it must agree with the other viewers. Always good to get to the point since us UA-camrs get impatient.😂😂😂 my question is you mentioned a silver paint in a jar and why did you not use that instead of taking it from an aerosol can? Tamaya also makes a more expensive paint called TS 83 with simulates an aluminum and have you seen that or tried it? I plan on painting my model and found your video. Very informative.
Really enjoyed the video. As a huge P-51 fan I am endeavoring to tackle one soon, but have always been intimidated about pulling off a realistic, scale bare aluminum scheme.
I do have a question, however: Is the spray Tamiya paint an actual lacquer spray paint? Or is it a solvent-based acrylic, sometimes called 'lacquer'?
It is a lacquer in the sense that it cannot me thinned with either water or mineral spirits such as turpentine. Most modern lacquers have acrylic bases, so in that sense it is solvent based. To use this technique, the paint must be thinned with lacquer thinners, Mr Color Thinner and yellow-top Tamiya thinners being perfect... Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the reply, Spencer.
I worked in the (full scale) aircraft industry for many years, and prior to seeing your video, I have often wondered if masking and using variations - not only of hue, but of texture - on panels at the primer level wouldn't provide an additional degree of realism for bare metal aircraft. Most removable panels or doors are heavier structural aluminum (as they cannot be part of the semi-monocoque structure) and therefore don't tend to utilize skin-quality (high gloss & luster) aluminum.
Anyway, I have subscribed and enjoy your thoughtful videos very much. Having re-entered the hobby somewhat late in life I am always looking for great content. Do you have any modeler channels that you might suggest? It's rather hit-or-miss out there...
How can you mix Tamiya AS-12 and acrylics?
Am I mistaken, or did you mix acrylic paint with the Tamiya AS-12? I always thought you couldn’t mix the two types.
Excelent, thanks
Hi, thanks a lot for sharing this. Question, after the decals and before the wheathering, do you spray any varnish coat ?
7 years on! Not sure if you're picking up comments but, do you find the Super Metallic paint durable for handling, masking etc? I'm trying to go water-based acrylic where possible to cut out the smell - have you used any water-based acrylic metallic paints that you can recommend?
Thanks so much for this tutorial but I’ve got a really basic question: I didn’t see you shake up the Tamiya spray can at all - did you do this before hand?
Hi Spencer, that means you do not apply a black gloss coat before like many others. Is this also your opinion six years later?
Before you "De-Can" the Tamiya Spray paint, are you shaking it up or just spraying into your mixing cup???
You certainly need to shake up/ mix the can prior to decanting.
@@thomasgardiner9811 "Thanks".
Where do you live, that gets so warm? I'm in Alentejo, Portugal, it gets over 40 Cº in summer...
Fahrenheit buddy.
@@jose_s_bam7938 - he just said he's in Portugal. They use Centigrade, and it gets very warm there. If you need to convert to Fahrenheit then I suggest that you find a conversion calculator. Personally, being middle-aged and British, I understand both.
What is the aircraft ?
Less annoying way to decant aerosols. Place it upside down on the table and let sit for a while. Then drill a tiny hole in the bottom. Place a quarter over the hole and ignore it for a few hours. Pick it up, and shake after putting a bit of tape over the hole to mix well. Then open the bottom with a can opener and pour into your jar.
AWWW So that's how you discolor panels!
Yep - simple, eh?
Very! I was wondering. I have a Tu-134 Zvezda model that I made custom flaps for so I could make it in landing config. I have not touched it since because painting scares the shit out of me. I need to do a few models before I ever finish her.
No matter what you paint it with it will never look like metal.The only way to achieve a natural metal finish is to use natural metal, ie foil.
8:59 Learning begins...
hi, I like your videos, please get focus on the videos and do not waste time speaking too long, otherwise you will loose subscribers.THANKS
Video production tip. Don't waste the first 10 minutes jabbering about what you don't use and how you don't do it. Get to the meat or peop[le will click away.
Miserable Audioqualität, dazu ein eher unverständliches Nuscheln. Für Menschen die Englisch nicht als Muttersprache haben leider kaum zu verstehen...
Rambling way too much!
Short attention span?
It's okay - next time I'll simply offer bullet points...