Great instructional video. I thought the work was pretty good. Those materials are hard to work with in that situation. Thank you for making this and posting it. Brother Ken below must be a competing operation! lol
No, they should have the proper skills to work with sheet metal and a working plan to seal the job from the elements, they are after all making this as a "how to" video, it should have been a how not to repair a roof! Seriously that roof is going to leak like a sieve, they even made a ripple in the corner reinforcement, the sealant tape has a gap in it and they applied the sealant caulk on top of the seam instead of under it, total hack job! The shop has all of the right equipment and the materials appear to be good quality, they even started to use the right rivets and then switched to pop rivets (blind rivet). would you want them working on your vehicle?
@@anthonyjohnson2570 if need be I can post a videos of riveting on both sides on a 28' pup trailer in a real shop and make you feel silly. These guys done a shit job on this repair and it's embarrassing to a real body man in the industry.
we dont know, but sika flex or dicor are made for rv roofs, dont use a standard home type sealant as these rv sealants are designed for movment, personallt id use dicor.
Ok this is so wrong LMAO... A roof section should be cut 6" before the roof bow. Then the new section should over lap it if coming from the nose and land 6" past the roof bow. This will give you roughly 16" of overlap. Apply sikaflex roof bow glue/sealent between the new and old overlap. Measure a rivet line 1/2" from each edge of your new and old roof. Mark each rivet at two inches. Then mark a second rivet line two inches from the first ones. Use the same two inch pattern but staggered from the first rows. This should give you four rows of rivets total. Two for each edge of the section. Then you glue any remaining roof bows and add weight across them if needed. Doing this will weigh the arch in your bows down (if a roof stretcher can't be used) (even then I use weight). Trim your edges lift them apply roof tape or sikaflex glue and then add J-STRIP (NOT J-STRAP) and fasten the roof down with rivets on the sides and nose if applicable. (In this case a 1/4 sealed monobolt across the nose due to it being a box van with a nose radius instead of a nose rail.) Side note a second row of rivets wouldn't have been necessary across the nose if you center punched the old monobolt pins with an air hammer and drilled just the heads off of them and not reaming the holes out. Then lastly use the same glue/sealent on all metal edges and then cover with either Manus bond roof sealant or seal gap sealent. At this point you remove the weight from your roof bows and your roof should spring back up and be the proper tighteness. Final note as a so called mechanic on this equipment you should know the roof is the key the most of the strength in box vans. A sub par repair done in this video is far from helping that strength.
👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 thank you
What type of sealant you use ?
Where do I buy the waterproof rivets and what size do I buy
Thank you for the video! I hit a low unmarked bridge on the 15 in CT need to get it repaired asap
Don't use this video as reference this was a garbage repair.
15 is no Trucks what did the repair cost
How much was that job?
Great instructional video. I thought the work was pretty good. Those materials are hard to work with in that situation. Thank you for making this and posting it. Brother Ken below must be a competing operation! lol
No, they should have the proper skills to work with sheet metal and a working plan to seal the job from the elements, they are after all making this as a "how to" video, it should have been a how not to repair a roof!
Seriously that roof is going to leak like a sieve, they even made a ripple in the corner reinforcement, the sealant tape has a gap in it and they applied the sealant caulk on top of the seam instead of under it, total hack job! The shop has all of the right equipment and the materials appear to be good quality, they even started to use the right rivets and then switched to pop rivets (blind rivet). would you want them working on your vehicle?
Ken u make a video on repairing a roof if not shut the f*** up.
@@anthonyjohnson2570 if need be I can post a videos of riveting on both sides on a 28' pup trailer in a real shop and make you feel silly. These guys done a shit job on this repair and it's embarrassing to a real body man in the industry.
@@papatwisted6481 where’s your vid? I want to fix mine right.
@@2hotscottpro if I were still in that business I would post one.
Hi guys what is the brand for that silicone
we dont know, but sika flex or dicor are made for rv roofs, dont use a standard home type sealant as these rv sealants are designed for movment, personallt id use dicor.
Sloppy sloppy work.
That is some of the sloppiest work I've seen in a long time! Does anyone even know the purpose for sealants?
I want to see one of Kens dogshit videos.
Ok this is so wrong LMAO...
A roof section should be cut 6" before the roof bow. Then the new section should over lap it if coming from the nose and land 6" past the roof bow. This will give you roughly 16" of overlap.
Apply sikaflex roof bow glue/sealent between the new and old overlap.
Measure a rivet line 1/2" from each edge of your new and old roof. Mark each rivet at two inches. Then mark a second rivet line two inches from the first ones. Use the same two inch pattern but staggered from the first rows. This should give you four rows of rivets total. Two for each edge of the section.
Then you glue any remaining roof bows and add weight across them if needed. Doing this will weigh the arch in your bows down (if a roof stretcher can't be used) (even then I use weight). Trim your edges lift them apply roof tape or sikaflex glue and then add J-STRIP (NOT J-STRAP) and fasten the roof down with rivets on the sides and nose if applicable. (In this case a 1/4 sealed monobolt across the nose due to it being a box van with a nose radius instead of a nose rail.)
Side note a second row of rivets wouldn't have been necessary across the nose if you center punched the old monobolt pins with an air hammer and drilled just the heads off of them and not reaming the holes out.
Then lastly use the same glue/sealent on all metal edges and then cover with either Manus bond roof sealant or seal gap sealent.
At this point you remove the weight from your roof bows and your roof should spring back up and be the proper tighteness.
Final note as a so called mechanic on this equipment you should know the roof is the key the most of the strength in box vans. A sub par repair done in this video is far from helping that strength.
Can you do a roof repair on my trailer, or know a good shop? There's too much water leaking
@@strubies I sure could where you located at?
@@papatwisted6481 okay I'm in NC, where you located?
@@strubies southern Indiana
Well said
Instead of contacting Larry, I'd contact someone else! Pop rivets on a roof???? Why even bother fixing the hole?
Those were closed-end mono-bolts common practice in the industry only better is hard rivets bucked and shot