Hi, you can bring the caster back to stop /help with over centring. Really, the key to Naoki’s set up (in my opinion) is managing trailing wheel grip. If you want a dramatic change, then add wheel spacers (try 30mm) and camber, upwards of 6/7° 🫡 to put that in perspective, I run between 8-10 on S chassis. Once you have that much camber, you can start adding significant toe out. Your wheel will hit stuff, so have a big hammer ready. Enjoy! 👏
Thanks heaps for commenting my guy! Next on the cards is some further extended LCAs to get some more camber in for sure ( I’m maxed out atm) Appreciate the advice ❤
Really awesome video. Can tell youve thought a lot about the setups and how you explain them. Probably the first time ever I've watched a suspension setup video with explanations that are engaging and not difficult to grasp through the entire length.
damn, thank you that means so much, always nerve racking trying to have an educational element so I'm really glad it was helpful and easy to understand
god it makes me so happy to see this thing getting the love it deserves, been a long time coming. ITB's and managing to run a map sensor instead of tuning with an alpha N setup through the TPS would make life so much easier too
This is so interesting to watch as I’m going through a mid life crisis and just bought mx83 to drift. Appreciate you taking the time to go through everything!!
I never thought of that snappy "impulse" of energy when yransitioning in terms of energy stored in the springs, but that makes so much sense! It's mad my understanding of what's going on when drifting and how to change it so much better!
this is fantastic. so much suspension tuning on the internet is glossed over, especially when done by "pros." having it explained easily and shown how to do it on a simple car with normal tools is brilliant, as opposed to all the D1 machines with infinite adjustment you see all over youtube.
I feel the same! so many videos that are just like "we're doing this setting and changing that because good" hard to find people who lay out how things actually translate to the real world and regular attainable cars and setups, that's kinda why i never do this style of video cause I still often feel very ill informed and want to only relay information from lived experience instead of just theory
Looks great, front Valance is coming together nicely 👍 good content to share trying new setups is always a journey. And regarding map on itbs id highly recommend looking at alpha N tuning, it's quite simple once you have a play with it, Andre at HP does a great video on that too
yesss okay awesome ill check out the HP academy vid, alpha N has always worried/ scared me and the thought of having small input and transient throttle response be really solid by using MAP has appealed to me but if it's easier than i think to just run Alpha N then I'm all ears. i've just been reading some of andre's comments on this debate in the HPA forums and he seems very convinced that what I'm aiming for should be no trouble so I'll keep researching, thanks heaps
what a high quality video u should def put the link in the bio i found it and im watching it now and god what another banger so stoked to see you posting regularly sending lots of love thank you so much for all u do and all u put out in the world music photography and videos you inspire people
thank you! forgot to whack the links in the bio but they're there now, definitely an interesting watch. and thank you so much for the kind words that means the world
Try using a chamber similar to the size of a large catch can with one hose from each runner into it and then to the map sensor, would be interesting to see if it balances out the map signal...
yesss, this is the theory but I'm hoping i can use my bigport to smallport adapter, weld on a balance chamber that's around 700ml-1l in volume and have a full bolt on affair that sandwiches between the itb manifold and the head that's large enough for a smooth MAP signal
I highly recommend Diff King in Dandenong. Those guys really know what they’re doing in there and their full diff builds with powdercoating is really cheap. Unless of course you’ll be doing an episode about it yourself which makes sense 😋
oh awesome thanks for the recommendation! still debating whether i attempt it myself for video or get it done right by a pro. i've heard it gets expensive quick so we'll see what's feasible in the coming months
Increased caster doesn't center the wheel more due to load jacking, it primarily centers the wheel more due to a higher mechanical trail, which gives more mechanical aligning torque. "Over-centering" is when the tie rod load path goes through the virtual steering axis, which in a rigidbody simulator would usually result in the wheel popping out of place, while IRL you tend to get binding from the joints. You can't fix it with caster, you need to either move the tie rod's outboard or inboard joint forward or backward. Outboard will change lock dramatically, so generally relocating the rack is preferred. You should check if your tie rod is pointing into the lower balljoint or not, and also account for compliance which will change the geometry. You're probably not getting" over-centering" when at slow speed pulling out of park, it's just because tire self aligning torque tends to reach negative values at high slip angles. If you steer most OEM cars to lock, they'll also get stuck if they don't have a lot of positive scrub radius.
thank you for the explanation, I definitely see where you're coming from, the words weren't really flowing out properly when i was filming the segment on the over centering but yes, that's what's happening is the tie rod is reaching an angle that is past the point of being able to control the steering arm and instead of pulling the knuckle sideways it's being pushed forward into the LCA, best practice here would, like you said, be putting the rack forward into the crossmember but it's of course a massive job and not one I'm looking to do at the moment. I was hoping that the slight change in the position of the steering knuckle with the forward movement of the lcas when adjusting castor would be enough to maintain a good angle on the tie rod but i had it backwards in my head and instead the only way that would work would be to remove castor. All's well that ends well however and i feel that i sacrificed only a small amount of lock and was able to keep the steering from binding at lock. for the purpose of a video like this I think it's important to maintain the use of language that's approachable for the audience. This is a channel for people with good knowledge of mechanics but not necessarily those who are looking at really diving into the engineering of it all in great depth, there's other channels for people either side of that out there, not to mention I'm not an engineer or an educator myself, im just a guy who loves driving and wants to share my thought process on the setup of my car, so while i understand that maybe the way i explain things might not be absolutely correct, i think for the purpose of balancing education with entertainment I need to try not to get too bogged down in the particulars. all this is to say please forgive the layman's terms and base level knowledge of the engineering and I hope you enjoy nonetheless
Been subbed for years now love the content youve helped me so much with my ke70 sedan, [id like to know what your wheel and tyre specs are all together]. Or do a specs video for the whole car keep it up its GO TIME 🎉🎉
Thanks so much! Cheers for sticking around My car currently has a 13x7 -1 up front with a 175 60 ns2r, a +15 lower control arm (XT130) and an 8mm slip on spacer. the rear is a 13x7.5 -6 with a 175 60 shitter
not usually, no, most of the time you'll only use throttle position and intake air temperature to tune with itbs, vacuum blocks are often used to feed the brake booster but they don't usually have the volume to provide a clean signal for MAP
this car has 13x7 -1 and 13x7.5 -6 with 175/60/13 all around, it's a great tyre setup for drifitng and aesthetics but can be a bit slippery for the street
Yep, the effect of changing the preload is essentially just that which I talked about - it just changes where in the total possible travel of the shock that the damper begins it’s stroke, in this case, because we’re just going up and not down it’s no worries as we’re at lower risk of hitting full compression and running into the bump stop as well as there’s no chance that the spring will become unseated at droop from having too little preload. The only concern here would be that in normal driving conditions on roads, going over bumps and divots, the front wheels might not have enough droop to keep the tyres on the ground and keep good traction in rough situations. But as I said; silly drift car
"to build a drift car sometimes you have to do some very unintelligent things" 🗣️🔥
a fine balance of stupidity and engineering hahah
Your latest style of videos are so much better. Give me real juicebox vibes lately. Looking forward to seeing everything come together
I feel his older videos were juicebox vibes these seem to have more production value
now we just need to convince Neil to come to halfway hangs and do a skid with me hahaha
thank you heaps
Hi, you can bring the caster back to stop /help with over centring. Really, the key to Naoki’s set up (in my opinion) is managing trailing wheel grip. If you want a dramatic change, then add wheel spacers (try 30mm) and camber, upwards of 6/7° 🫡 to put that in perspective, I run between 8-10 on S chassis. Once you have that much camber, you can start adding significant toe out. Your wheel will hit stuff, so have a big hammer ready. Enjoy! 👏
Thanks heaps for commenting my guy!
Next on the cards is some further extended LCAs to get some more camber in for sure ( I’m maxed out atm)
Appreciate the advice ❤
Really awesome video. Can tell youve thought a lot about the setups and how you explain them. Probably the first time ever I've watched a suspension setup video with explanations that are engaging and not difficult to grasp through the entire length.
damn, thank you that means so much, always nerve racking trying to have an educational element so I'm really glad it was helpful and easy to understand
god it makes me so happy to see this thing getting the love it deserves, been a long time coming. ITB's and managing to run a map sensor instead of tuning with an alpha N setup through the TPS would make life so much easier too
looooong overdue hey, this thing deserves to be a beast
This is so interesting to watch as I’m going through a mid life crisis and just bought mx83 to drift. Appreciate you taking the time to go through everything!!
hahahah get it son, x chassis such sick drift cars, very similar to the soarer too!
Good stuff man got plenty of knowledge to share mixed with good ideas need more of that. Keen to see it at halfway
thank you so much
I never thought of that snappy "impulse" of energy when yransitioning in terms of energy stored in the springs, but that makes so much sense! It's mad my understanding of what's going on when drifting and how to change it so much better!
Yeahhhh I’m super interested to see how it works out on track
Wow one of the best videos what i have lately see thank you for this ❤
More than excellent to have you back and releasing more episodes man. Content and music are so well put together!
thank you so much!
this is fantastic. so much suspension tuning on the internet is glossed over, especially when done by "pros."
having it explained easily and shown how to do it on a simple car with normal tools is brilliant, as opposed to all the D1 machines with infinite adjustment you see all over youtube.
I feel the same! so many videos that are just like "we're doing this setting and changing that because good" hard to find people who lay out how things actually translate to the real world and regular attainable cars and setups, that's kinda why i never do this style of video cause I still often feel very ill informed and want to only relay information from lived experience instead of just theory
Looks great, front Valance is coming together nicely 👍 good content to share trying new setups is always a journey. And regarding map on itbs id highly recommend looking at alpha N tuning, it's quite simple once you have a play with it, Andre at HP does a great video on that too
yesss okay awesome ill check out the HP academy vid, alpha N has always worried/ scared me and the thought of having small input and transient throttle response be really solid by using MAP has appealed to me but if it's easier than i think to just run Alpha N then I'm all ears.
i've just been reading some of andre's comments on this debate in the HPA forums and he seems very convinced that what I'm aiming for should be no trouble so I'll keep researching, thanks heaps
Love to see you guys back. it's giving Bob Ross or "This Old House" vibes lol
Thank you! Hahah
I like the content direction mate!
Thank you!
Loving the new space and the latest videos! Cheers from the US
thank you my guy!
Bro all of the gotime videos always drop at 1:00 for me.😂 but I love it, late night GO time.❤
hahaha damn, sorry my guy
what a high quality video u should def put the link in the bio i found it and im watching it now and god what another banger so stoked to see you posting regularly sending lots of love thank you so much for all u do and all u put out in the world music photography and videos you inspire people
thank you! forgot to whack the links in the bio but they're there now, definitely an interesting watch.
and thank you so much for the kind words that means the world
This is a s sick video dude. There’s a vibe the entire time it’s just a nice watch.
thanks heaps, glad you enjoyed
Loving the KE70 Dylan, well loving the z10 too, and a sprinkle of 60 series, really just all of it 😂
This is amazing. Super keen for the itbs!
Great video you explained everything in a way that was easy to understand
Can’t wait to see it move at half way hands we want to see an inside camera like the old footage from back in the day
that's the plan, stan, can't bloody wait
you´re a huge inspiration. Keep it up!
Thanks so much! We soldier on
proper informative, wanna experiment with all of this when i get my 36 setup and ready, cant wait to run my go time sticker at calder!
heck yeah, that'll be fun as, thanks for watching
Man i love ke70's. Many have met their fate here in ireland. Starting to catch a few pound too! a blacktop 4age one went up for sale for 15k euro
That’s insane hahah that’s like 30k aud for a ke!
I miss my ke70. Such sick little cars. Awesome vids bro
time for another?
@ maybe one day. I have a ae86 still. I also tried this technique in a game and it worked incredibly well 🙏🏼
Going so well maaaate!! Keep pushing
thank you my guy
Try using a chamber similar to the size of a large catch can with one hose from each runner into it and then to the map sensor, would be interesting to see if it balances out the map signal...
yesss, this is the theory but I'm hoping i can use my bigport to smallport adapter, weld on a balance chamber that's around 700ml-1l in volume and have a full bolt on affair that sandwiches between the itb manifold and the head that's large enough for a smooth MAP signal
love your content!
I highly recommend Diff King in Dandenong. Those guys really know what they’re doing in there and their full diff builds with powdercoating is really cheap. Unless of course you’ll be doing an episode about it yourself which makes sense 😋
oh awesome thanks for the recommendation! still debating whether i attempt it myself for video or get it done right by a pro.
i've heard it gets expensive quick so we'll see what's feasible in the coming months
Love the "yeah, shit..." in the middle lol
hahah thank you!
Increased caster doesn't center the wheel more due to load jacking, it primarily centers the wheel more due to a higher mechanical trail, which gives more mechanical aligning torque.
"Over-centering" is when the tie rod load path goes through the virtual steering axis, which in a rigidbody simulator would usually result in the wheel popping out of place, while IRL you tend to get binding from the joints.
You can't fix it with caster, you need to either move the tie rod's outboard or inboard joint forward or backward. Outboard will change lock dramatically, so generally relocating the rack is preferred. You should check if your tie rod is pointing into the lower balljoint or not, and also account for compliance which will change the geometry.
You're probably not getting" over-centering" when at slow speed pulling out of park, it's just because tire self aligning torque tends to reach negative values at high slip angles. If you steer most OEM cars to lock, they'll also get stuck if they don't have a lot of positive scrub radius.
thank you for the explanation, I definitely see where you're coming from, the words weren't really flowing out properly when i was filming the segment on the over centering but yes, that's what's happening is the tie rod is reaching an angle that is past the point of being able to control the steering arm and instead of pulling the knuckle sideways it's being pushed forward into the LCA, best practice here would, like you said, be putting the rack forward into the crossmember but it's of course a massive job and not one I'm looking to do at the moment.
I was hoping that the slight change in the position of the steering knuckle with the forward movement of the lcas when adjusting castor would be enough to maintain a good angle on the tie rod but i had it backwards in my head and instead the only way that would work would be to remove castor.
All's well that ends well however and i feel that i sacrificed only a small amount of lock and was able to keep the steering from binding at lock.
for the purpose of a video like this I think it's important to maintain the use of language that's approachable for the audience. This is a channel for people with good knowledge of mechanics but not necessarily those who are looking at really diving into the engineering of it all in great depth, there's other channels for people either side of that out there, not to mention I'm not an engineer or an educator myself, im just a guy who loves driving and wants to share my thought process on the setup of my car, so while i understand that maybe the way i explain things might not be absolutely correct, i think for the purpose of balancing education with entertainment I need to try not to get too bogged down in the particulars.
all this is to say please forgive the layman's terms and base level knowledge of the engineering and I hope you enjoy nonetheless
i love the style of this car. thanks for sharing!
I would be grateful if you could get some mic sound of the exhaust in the future.
yesss, gotta do some testing with these new mics to get good exhaust audio, thanks for watching
king
see you at halfway! ✌
Great video and Sweet car dude
Thank you!
Been subbed for years now love the content youve helped me so much with my ke70 sedan, [id like to know what your wheel and tyre specs are all together]. Or do a specs video for the whole car keep it up its GO TIME 🎉🎉
Thanks so much! Cheers for sticking around
My car currently has a 13x7 -1 up front with a 175 60 ns2r, a +15 lower control arm (XT130) and an 8mm slip on spacer.
the rear is a 13x7.5 -6 with a 175 60 shitter
@GOTIME-CO Legend man thank you, keep the great content up LOVING IT🔥🔥
excellent vibes man
here in Malaysia they use Schassis front suspension layout but some of them said its bit tacky
yeahhh, I've driven a few corollas with silvia stuff and i found that it took away from the desirable handling characteristics of the corolla
another quality upload
thank you
Hell yea dude this is sick
Don't those ITB's usually have individual ports per runner that are all connected to a common rail to get Map pressure?
not usually, no, most of the time you'll only use throttle position and intake air temperature to tune with itbs, vacuum blocks are often used to feed the brake booster but they don't usually have the volume to provide a clean signal for MAP
Great stuff, thanks
Hello, what steering wheel quick release are you using?
Love the videos!
hey hey, this is an NRG quick release i've had for many years
whats your rim/tire setup? tryna see what setup i should run on my ke
this car has 13x7 -1 and 13x7.5 -6 with 175/60/13 all around, it's a great tyre setup for drifitng and aesthetics but can be a bit slippery for the street
Alingement I think would be better if you do TOE IN a lot. Because as you steer you getting toe out.
Man I miss Mitto's content. Guy doesn't seem to post much any more even on insta.
me too man
wouldn't compressing the spring effect the preload?
Yep, the effect of changing the preload is essentially just that which I talked about - it just changes where in the total possible travel of the shock that the damper begins it’s stroke, in this case, because we’re just going up and not down it’s no worries as we’re at lower risk of hitting full compression and running into the bump stop as well as there’s no chance that the spring will become unseated at droop from having too little preload. The only concern here would be that in normal driving conditions on roads, going over bumps and divots, the front wheels might not have enough droop to keep the tyres on the ground and keep good traction in rough situations. But as I said; silly drift car
Dylo have you watched making for motorsports itb videos?
nah i haven't! ill check it out
PLEASE . where did you find that front FOHA style lip ?
Currently building this custom to get some manufactured 😊
Matt maltese drifts?
Link the drift crash videos please
Ooops, in the description now
love it
Loving that rim size I can tell if 14 or 15
I think they're 13s cobs
yeppp, 13s on this
What's the tyre size?... I need to know so I can get mine legal my tyres to stretched because I went doriftio style
nice
Glad I found your channel. You're sick.
I'm glad you did too! thanks for watching
Do this to my Porsche
1hz drift porsche when
Alpha N tuning isn't that hard.
I run Alpha N with a 4D table that uses MAP (that controls the idle and cruise). And it works perfectly.
Cool as, where do you pull map from, do you have a balance chamber?
Like your style and tats. Makes me miss my AE86&KE70.
Hope it sounds like this when you're done.
ua-cam.com/video/1rkgN_Isf3o/v-deo.html
Thanks heapssss, jeeze that thing sounds insane
sketchiest jack stand setup ever ... just casually talking while under a death trap SMH
They’re literally normal jackstands rated to 1200kgs each, seated firmly on the frame rails…? How do you suggest I do better?