Nice. I'm making a mirror frame out of old barnwood, so no staining required. Thanks for the pocket hole idea. I wasn't sure how to join and was just going to pin nail it all to the wall like my barnwood trim is. Now I just have to find someone with one that I can borrow. Cool that you are also in the Calgary area and like good music ;)
I would say a half lap joint would be far stronger and you get a huge gluing surface. Plus its an easy joint, you can make the rails fit between the stiles like a true shaker style and not worry about the router hitting a pocket screw.
You could take the bulk of the rabbets out with a circular saw and a straight edge, then use a chisel to take out the corners where the saw blade can't reach without overcutting!
i always use 1-1/4" screws on lumber that is 3/4" thick.... be sure the pocket hole drilling jig is adjusted for 3/4" thickness... pratice with some scrap pieces while adjusting & run a screw in and join a scrap piece. make sure a screw dont poke thru your project....n old saying was ; the proof is in the pudding. good luck
Hi Elizabeth! These are the ones I picked up locally here in Canada. Any big box store will be able to point you in the right direction. Or search "Glazier Points" on amazon! www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin-glazier-point/1000164657
Lots of good advice here, but I question that saw-tooth picture hanger gizmo that you're expecting to support the weight of the mirror and frame long term. It's extra problematic because if/when it fails, most likely the mirror breaks when it hits the floor.
Because I did the main build a town over from where the actual mirror was, and I didn't want to take the risk my putting the mirror in the back of my truck. And if I needed to make any adjustments with a chisel, I could do it whenever as my girlfriend was not too worried about what the back looked like.
So cool ! Thank you ! You make me wanna gear up in all that fine equipment !
Nice. I'm making a mirror frame out of old barnwood, so no staining required. Thanks for the pocket hole idea. I wasn't sure how to join and was just going to pin nail it all to the wall like my barnwood trim is. Now I just have to find someone with one that I can borrow. Cool that you are also in the Calgary area and like good music ;)
Thanks man. I’m gonna borrow ur idea and frame mine tomorrow exactly the same.
This is fantastic. Where did you order your mirror my good man?
If you used miters on the joints you could rabbit everything and no need for the router ?
What size screws are you using? ty
Hi! In the future, could you put a list of everything you use in your description? The mirror looks beautiful!! Thank you for the video.
How do you determine the measurements? I have two mirrors that are different sizes.
lol. He left out that part. SMH
great job
Looks great
Thank you!!
I like your electrician's torpedo level. I have one myself.
I would say a half lap joint would be far stronger and you get a huge gluing surface. Plus its an easy joint, you can make the rails fit between the stiles like a true shaker style and not worry about the router hitting a pocket screw.
Where do u get a mirror like that? One thats not the same price for a mirror already framed
Would dowels work for the joints, i don't have a kreg jig ?
Hell yeah! Dowel joinery would be great!
Thanks for the quick reply, looking to make this as a christmas gift.
@@jessicamorgan2928 YOU CAN DO IT JESSICA!! I have total faith in you
Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks my man
Is that a actual heavy mirror?? or one of those flexible hang on the door mirrors??
Thank you so much for inspiring me to build this.
I have a question, what can i do if i dont have a router?
You could take the bulk of the rabbets out with a circular saw and a straight edge, then use a chisel to take out the corners where the saw blade can't reach without overcutting!
What size mirror is this ?
Did you have to put that racking noise!
@WildRoseDIY What size length pocket screws did you end up using to join the 1x4's ?
i always use 1-1/4" screws on lumber that is 3/4" thick.... be sure the pocket hole drilling jig is adjusted for 3/4" thickness... pratice with some scrap pieces while adjusting & run a screw in and join a scrap piece. make sure a screw dont poke thru your project....n old saying was ; the proof is in the pudding. good luck
BROOOOOOOOOTHERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
quieter background music would be awesome.
What are the dimensions of this mirror?
can you put a link for the mirror clasps? brand and name etc?
Hi Elizabeth! These are the ones I picked up locally here in Canada. Any big box store will be able to point you in the right direction. Or search "Glazier Points" on amazon!
www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin-glazier-point/1000164657
Lots of good advice here, but I question that saw-tooth picture hanger gizmo that you're expecting to support the weight of the mirror and frame long term. It's extra problematic because if/when it fails, most likely the mirror breaks when it hits the floor.
I used screws instead of the included nails and so far its still hanging there!
I used a French cleat when I hung my bathroom mirror. About as sturdy as it gets!
Agreed, not worth the rsik of 7 yrs bad luck!
I SEE A Communication disk
3:55 lies an evil bug
8:28 why would you wait until its finish to see if it actually fits?
Because I did the main build a town over from where the actual mirror was, and I didn't want to take the risk my putting the mirror in the back of my truck. And if I needed to make any adjustments with a chisel, I could do it whenever as my girlfriend was not too worried about what the back looked like.
@@wildrosediy7058 makes since.
What an awful bodged-up, cheap-jack job. Is that what you call safe? Stevie Wonder could've done better.
Hey man, I hope that whatever is going on in your life gets better.
Weak