If you're considering a $400 part, WATCH THIS VIDEO! Hands down the best video on diagnosing Crown Vic fuel issues on UA-cam! If you're doing your homework and not replacing parts, this video will tell you all you need to check to properly diagnose the problem. He would have saved me 30 minutes of going over schematics and legends for fuses & relays up front. Don't be like me! Going in the archives! Great Job! Thanks!
This video helped immensely. I couldn't figure out why the fuel pump wasn't engaging at all and I'm glad I watched until the end to see about the switch in the trunk. Save me a lot of work as I was doing some body work on the car and accidentally triggered that switch. So it was nice to have an easy push this down and the car works just fine again. Can't thank you enough
Thanks! I always do a full diagnostic before I just change parts. As this had all the telling of a bad fuel pump. But it was a wired ripped out of the fuel pump driver module. I load my car like it's a truck. Even taking the back seats out. And that's where wire runs. So something shifted and tore out the wiring. It also set off the safety switch for some reason.
My car wouldn't start today after my rear left tire went flat on the road all because the inertia switch was triggered when the tire blew, I was able to fire the car straight up after pressing that button, but only after I had already got my car towed home. Anyway thanks for the video it was extremely helpful.
Thanks for the video. There is supposed to be a jumper on the Fuel Pump Module to activate the fuel pump in test mode. But I didn't see it in your video. PS. this module regulates the speed of the fuel pump through a PWM (pulsing voltage). It's because there is no fuel return line, so the pump has to be gradually controlled to establish a constant fuel rail pressure.
PS. I watched another great video, there isn't exactly a jumper, but you can jumper the connector to the fuel pump module. Check video ua-cam.com/video/njbDB3xlVo8/v-deo.html
Thanks for the information. I have a 1999 that the fuel pump intermittently worked. Sometimes, even though the safety was down, you could touch it an the car would start. Nit will not start at all. I will test everything in the morning.
What an incredible video. Im putting a like, subscribing, and commenting. Sadly none of my friends like my crown Vic so i have nobody to share this video with haha but great video
Very good run down on the electrical part of the fuel system, but I've got a pump making noise in a no-start condition. I think all my pre-pump electrical is good. So now I'll have to go downstream an find out what's stopping the flow. Thanks for a well-made and informative video.
Good info but that #24 10A fuse under dash also powers PATS and PCM. So if the security light goes out (IGN ON) you can rule that out instantly. The #4 20A fuse ONLY powers the fuel pump through the #206 relay but I've yet to ever see either of those fail. The FPDM will be the most common failure point among this gen Ford vehicles and newer so I'd start any diag in the trunk at the end of the tree and work backwards from there if necessary.
Hey i have a periodic engine stall while driving issue with my 06 P71, when it happens i throw car into neutral , key off while rolling , restart engine and keep going, if i dont key off it will turn over but not start, do you think my FPDM might be acting up ?
@@matthewkelley7420 I replaced the inertia switch that is in the drivers side truck with a used one from a 05 vic. haven't had the prob since , fingers crossed i fixed it. The other symptom that it had that i think was related is when i would take a sharp right turn the motor would momentarily lose speed and then recover and take off again, so both problems seem to be solved with that switch swap. Weird thing is i took the old switch apart and it appeared to be normal ??
@@matthewkelley7420 Yes to misfire but it was a COP moisture issue with coolient down in the spark plug hole. Make sure you don't have water down any of your spark plug holes. 4.6's are notorious for water leaks at 1 or more of the 4 corners of the intake manifold, i've used radiator stop leak as a fix. and i put extra o-rings on my spark plug boots to seal in the hole better. I also put some paper towel at the front of the intake in the groove so that if there ever is a leak again it wont run to the rear of the engine and get in the spark plug holes again. The Crown vic wont set a misfire code unless it is severe , misfires are sensed by the crank angle/position sensor and you pretty much need a coil failure before it will set a code. Ive had a number of coils fail , i put a set of cheap chinese coils in it at one point and 4 years later 4 of the coils had failed (some cracked on top) i think im running all ford coils now
I have a 2008 model interceptor and I noticed my underhood fuse box is slightly different than this one is there any way you can point out the differences so I can troubleshoot my fuel pump as well?
I recently had a no start issue on ford wasnt inertia switch wasn't relay or fuse or fuel pump also wasn't the fuel pump wasn't wire harness mounts not the fuel rail pressure sensor nor purge sensor thing i had no ground to back half of vehicle i ran a ground from front quarter panel to rear frame rail and seemed to fix every issue I had
So my car will only run the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and then die, might I be looking at a bad fuel pump control module because jumping the fuel pump relay does not do anything, or possibly a bad circuit to the ECM for controlling the module demand signal
With IGN ON, the pump should only energize for 2 sec to prime system which is normal. The PCM controls the PWM signal to the FPDM so jumping the relay will have no effect and w/o ECM signal would not prime at all. The output of the FPDM should send constant +12 to the pump and the ground will be PWM controlled. To diag best to use a test light at output of FPDM or can jumper ground output to chassis to force the pump at 100%. If car will not stay running after this I'd move the diag elsewhere. Maybe a bad MAF or ECT sensor, etc... An unplugged sensor can be better than faulty data, forcing ECM to use default values, so unplug things one at a time and see what changes.
My switch in trunk won't go down it pop back up I just changed my fuel pump cuz I didn't hear it no more when my car cut off after changing fuel pump it started up ran a little then cut off now won't start
I have an issue currently on a 2010 CVPI that has had me back to this 15 times and I can't figure it out. Without going thru the entire process, I don't have power to the relay under hood ignition side. Meaning the always hot power for the pump is hot but the voltage that initializes the relay is not when checked with key on? This power comes from under the dash fuse panel from the 10 amp fuse. Also to save typing for anyone interested all fuses and iso/relays associated and not associated have been checked or replaced. Please let me know if any ideas in addition to the presumed list to try. I'm usually pretty good at diagnostics but this has me bonkers!
I really appreciate your video bro! I have an issue with my wiring I believe. I recently installed a sound system and whenever I turn the bass up loud, I mean loud, my fuel pump fuel blows. It's only the fuel pump and my guess is it's grounding out somewhere in the fuel pump power wiring. Like maybe a open wire that's just touching the frame or something. I just don't know where all of the possibilities of the short could be.
Did you see how easy that switch tripped when he hit it with the handle of a screwdriver? I’ve seen people hit a pothole and trip them, so I would bet that if you just installed subwoofers back there, there’s a good chance the vibration is tripping the cutoff switch
Mine will start then die. Replaced fuel pump still does it. It's like the pump isn't keeping pressure. When we was trying to drain the tank with the fuel pump it would kick on for a second or two then shut off. it had no back pressure on it to make it shut off.
I have a periodic engine stall while driving issue with my 06 P71, when it happens i throw the car into neutral , key off while rolling , restart engine and keep going, if i dont key off it will turn over but not start, i wonder my FPDM might be acting up tripping out ? i wonder if the relay in the fuse box can start hiccuping ?
This car is newer than mine, on my 95 crown Victoria, is it very similar to this, as I cannot hear my fuel pump engage like I always do, it jus DONT work, I installed a new complete fuel pump/fuelfilter too, bout 2 months ago and I never ever had a problem, but I jus replaced the center link and I jus moved it out of my shop, then bout 1 hour later my car won't start it jus turns n turns, and I cannot hear my pump engage, I'll have to check these components tommorow n see if fuses are burned out, and interica switch and driver module as well. By the way how do you check if the drive module is bad???? I certainly hope it NOT A DEALERSHIP PART, OMG, THATS GONNA BE VERY VERY EXPENSIVE😭
Would I be able to power the fuel pump with connecting the 2 wires in the the trunk by the inertia switch if there's a short in the regular line powering the fuel pump?
You can just download the owner's manual from Ford if you lost the book. Recommend at least printing out the fuses section and keeping that in the glove box.
Is it shorting out without the relay in place, if it is then it's shorting out somewhere right there within the underhood fuse box, otherwise you can try and disconnect the inertia switch and if it's still shorting out then then it's a wire from the inertia switch to the fuel pump control module, But if it's only blowing the fuse with the fuel pump control module plugged in without the fuel pump plugged in under the car then you likely have a bad fuel pump control module.
Hey my crown Victoria engine running when key is off and removed, what is going on?? Please help.. drives an runs like nothing is wrong, jus can’t turn the car off?
So I have a 06 too. And my fuel pump relay has a jumper wire. To make it run now. Gas gauge doesn't work right and my fuel pump diode is melting. Never pops just melts. What would be the cause for that? Trying to keep my car from catching on fire.
I have 2011 and the inertia switch is newer and different. It doesn't push up. It only pushes down. I'm trying to kill the fuel to engine to replace my intake manifold so gas doesn't get everywhere when I disconnect the fuel line at the rail. Any advice?
What has happened if there is no power to that very first 10 amp fuse? The fuse is good there's just no power going to it. Also there is no power going to my inertia switch in the back of the trunk.
@@cookingwithkratos yes. That fuse has nothing to do with the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is a 20 amp in the box next to the battery. (Wrong internet info wasted me a lot of time) Make sure the tank is half full and then check the fuel pressure.
OKAY I HAVE THIS PROBLEM MY CAR JUST TURNS OFF WHILE DRIVING I HAVE TO GET OFF AND WIGGLE THE PCM power diode then it'll start then it'll turn off again it's driving me nuts I try to bypass it by putting a fuse on there instead of the diode but now the fuse doesn't start it the car just turns off anybody have any suggestions what do I have to replace??
With wiggling the diode, corrosion in the fuse box may be a possibility. Or time spent wiggling it just gave the module enough time to cool down. Otherwise the FPDM can crap out intermittently, outright stalling or just lack of power along with not working at all.
Checked both fuses jumpered the relay still got no power to inertia switch input wire to inertia switch is red with black trace do you know where it runs through the car by chance
I have a 2004 crown victoria it doesn't crank over at all I check the fused I found some burn but replaces all the fuse and still no power I put my code readers but there is no because nothing pop up I'm running out of things to do help?
I have a 2011 CVPI It randomly shuts off while driving. Many times simply turning the key off and restarting the car does the trick. BUT. Sometimes I have to disconnect the battery for just a second. Reconnect it and it will restart. I have done this enough times to realize that when the key turns on I hear a “Thunk”. If there is no Thunk. The car doesn’t start. Yesterday the car started. But today. No Thunk. No start. I’ve swapped out relays and diodes trying to get the Thunk back without doing the battery disconnect. I’m sure disconnecting the battery is resetting something. I just don’t know what. Any ideas? BTW I agree with @georgehumphrey1566 this is probably the best 5 minutes on this topic on the whole of UA-cam.
That was a ton of information about the whole fuel pump circuit, not many videos out there like this one, really appreciate it, thanks a lot 👋.
Will this also work on a 1996?
If you're considering a $400 part, WATCH THIS VIDEO! Hands down the best video on diagnosing Crown Vic fuel issues on UA-cam! If you're doing your homework and not replacing parts, this video will tell you all you need to check to properly diagnose the problem. He would have saved me 30 minutes of going over schematics and legends for fuses & relays up front. Don't be like me! Going in the archives! Great Job! Thanks!
Wow - a lot of useful info here. Best of all, presented in a clear and efficient manner. Thanks!
You are a great teacher.Very well presented and easy to understand
Awesome video. Straight-to-the-point and detailed
If half the repair/info content was this good things would be SO much simpler. I too appreciate top-notch content.
This video helped immensely. I couldn't figure out why the fuel pump wasn't engaging at all and I'm glad I watched until the end to see about the switch in the trunk. Save me a lot of work as I was doing some body work on the car and accidentally triggered that switch. So it was nice to have an easy push this down and the car works just fine again. Can't thank you enough
That was an excellent video I learned so much ,so fast .Thank you.
Thanks! I always do a full diagnostic before I just change parts. As this had all the telling of a bad fuel pump. But it was a wired ripped out of the fuel pump driver module. I load my car like it's a truck. Even taking the back seats out. And that's where wire runs. So something shifted and tore out the wiring. It also set off the safety switch for some reason.
My car wouldn't start today after my rear left tire went flat on the road all because the inertia switch was triggered when the tire blew, I was able to fire the car straight up after pressing that button, but only after I had already got my car towed home. Anyway thanks for the video it was extremely helpful.
Thank you so much for this video I was just about to spend $300 for a fuel pump Went into my trunk and pushed a button
Thanks for the video. There is supposed to be a jumper on the Fuel Pump Module to activate the fuel pump in test mode. But I didn't see it in your video. PS. this module regulates the speed of the fuel pump through a PWM (pulsing voltage). It's because there is no fuel return line, so the pump has to be gradually controlled to establish a constant fuel rail pressure.
PS. I watched another great video, there isn't exactly a jumper, but you can jumper the connector to the fuel pump module. Check video ua-cam.com/video/njbDB3xlVo8/v-deo.html
So do you know if the FPM can have a intermittent failure problem ?
Thanks for the information. I have a 1999 that the fuel pump intermittently worked. Sometimes, even though the safety was down, you could touch it an the car would start. Nit will not start at all. I will test everything in the morning.
What an incredible video. Im putting a like, subscribing, and commenting. Sadly none of my friends like my crown Vic so i have nobody to share this video with haha but great video
So this helped me out big time. Pointing out the inertia switch helped me figure out what I did.
Very good run down on the electrical part of the fuel system, but I've got a pump making noise in a no-start condition. I think all my pre-pump electrical is good. So now I'll have to go downstream an find out what's stopping the flow. Thanks for a well-made and informative video.
Just cuz the pump is making noise doesn't mean it's pumping
@@erichughes284 It wasn't pumping at ALL!
Some maroon had let the tank go dry. 😔
@@wadepatton2433 That wasn't very smart.
@@erichughes284 Things happen and if you had been there, you might not think the same as you do now. I made something positive of the experience.
@@wadepatton2433 fair enough
Great walk through and presentation!
Best video out there, short sweet and to the point!
GR8 video, pushed the little button in the truck and I was on my way 🏁👍🏿
Very informative thank you for posting. Added a like
Thank you for putting this video together I appreciate you taking your time
That was really good. Very helpful 👍👍
Equipped with this information And the power prob I’ll have no problems checking for these type of problems in any Vehicle, thank you
Bro this clean and unique info thanks for taking the time to do this video and sharing
Excellent presentation!!!
Thank you dude! The wire that’s in the truck was disconnected. I connected it and it turn on. I was thinking I had to replace the fuel pump!
Thanks for a fantastic video!
All hail the Algorithm!
Thank u very much!!! Easiest way to deter car from being stolen just pull that relay or the fuse that powers it😉
Very valuable video! Thanks for sharing this info!!
100000000 like man you are amazing that helped me how to deal with this issue happened to my car. Thanks again
Good info but that #24 10A fuse under dash also powers PATS and PCM. So if the security light goes out (IGN ON) you can rule that out instantly. The #4 20A fuse ONLY powers the fuel pump through the #206 relay but I've yet to ever see either of those fail. The FPDM will be the most common failure point among this gen Ford vehicles and newer so I'd start any diag in the trunk at the end of the tree and work backwards from there if necessary.
Hey i have a periodic engine stall while driving issue with my 06 P71, when it happens i throw car into neutral , key off while rolling , restart engine and keep going, if i dont key off it will turn over but not start, do you think my FPDM might be acting up ?
@@luckyPiston I have developed the same problem recently
@@luckyPiston Did you also notice the engine running roughly, felt like a misfire, but not giving a misfire code?
@@matthewkelley7420 I replaced the inertia switch that is in the drivers side truck with a used one from a 05 vic. haven't had the prob since , fingers crossed i fixed it. The other symptom that it had that i think was related is when i would take a sharp right turn the motor would momentarily lose speed and then recover and take off again, so both problems seem to be solved with that switch swap.
Weird thing is i took the old switch apart and it appeared to be normal ??
@@matthewkelley7420 Yes to misfire but it was a COP moisture issue with coolient down in the spark plug hole.
Make sure you don't have water down any of your spark plug holes.
4.6's are notorious for water leaks at 1 or more of the 4 corners of the intake manifold, i've used radiator stop leak as a fix. and i put extra o-rings on my spark plug boots to seal in the hole better.
I also put some paper towel at the front of the intake in the groove so that if there ever is a leak again it wont run to the rear of the engine and get in the spark plug holes again.
The Crown vic wont set a misfire code unless it is severe , misfires are sensed by the crank angle/position sensor and you pretty much need a coil failure before it will set a code.
Ive had a number of coils fail , i put a set of cheap chinese coils in it at one point and 4 years later 4 of the coils had failed (some cracked on top) i think im running all ford coils now
really really helpful
Great video. I just purchased a 2009 my guage is showing low fuel but tank is full. Any ideas? I believe the tank was replaced 2 years ago. Ty
I'm going to put a kill switch in the car. Thanks for the video
I have a 2008 model interceptor and I noticed my underhood fuse box is slightly different than this one is there any way you can point out the differences so I can troubleshoot my fuel pump as well?
Excellent video bro
I recently had a no start issue on ford wasnt inertia switch wasn't relay or fuse or fuel pump also wasn't the fuel pump wasn't wire harness mounts not the fuel rail pressure sensor nor purge sensor thing i had no ground to back half of vehicle i ran a ground from front quarter panel to rear frame rail and seemed to fix every issue I had
grounds are super importance and most vulnerable to corrosion
Correct me if I'm wrong,but I think that a bad cylinder head temperature sensor or crankshaft position sensor can cut power to the pump.
Thank you! 😀
Thank you sir
So my car will only run the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and then die, might I be looking at a bad fuel pump control module because jumping the fuel pump relay does not do anything, or possibly a bad circuit to the ECM for controlling the module demand signal
With IGN ON, the pump should only energize for 2 sec to prime system which is normal. The PCM controls the PWM signal to the FPDM so jumping the relay will have no effect and w/o ECM signal would not prime at all. The output of the FPDM should send constant +12 to the pump and the ground will be PWM controlled. To diag best to use a test light at output of FPDM or can jumper ground output to chassis to force the pump at 100%. If car will not stay running after this I'd move the diag elsewhere. Maybe a bad MAF or ECT sensor, etc... An unplugged sensor can be better than faulty data, forcing ECM to use default values, so unplug things one at a time and see what changes.
My switch in trunk won't go down it pop back up I just changed my fuel pump cuz I didn't hear it no more when my car cut off after changing fuel pump it started up ran a little then cut off now won't start
I have an issue currently on a 2010 CVPI that has had me back to this 15 times and I can't figure it out. Without going thru the entire process, I don't have power to the relay under hood ignition side. Meaning the always hot power for the pump is hot but the voltage that initializes the relay is not when checked with key on? This power comes from under the dash fuse panel from the 10 amp fuse. Also to save typing for anyone interested all fuses and iso/relays associated and not associated have been checked or replaced. Please let me know if any ideas in addition to the presumed list to try. I'm usually pretty good at diagnostics but this has me bonkers!
I have a 2008 crown vic incepter with the same fuse system under the hood
I'm looking for the abs module fuse
Could you please help me
Thank you for the great explanation.
I have a 93 grand marquis ad I'v check the wires from front to back ad all fuses and relays r good still not getting fire to my fuel pump
how can you bypass driver module for a engine swap to old car
What about power going to fuel pressure regulater?
I really appreciate your video bro! I have an issue with my wiring I believe. I recently installed a sound system and whenever I turn the bass up loud, I mean loud, my fuel pump fuel blows. It's only the fuel pump and my guess is it's grounding out somewhere in the fuel pump power wiring. Like maybe a open wire that's just touching the frame or something. I just don't know where all of the possibilities of the short could be.
Did you see how easy that switch tripped when he hit it with the handle of a screwdriver?
I’ve seen people hit a pothole and trip them, so I would bet that if you just installed subwoofers back there, there’s a good chance the vibration is tripping the cutoff switch
Thanks for this!!!
Great vid! Helped a lot!
Mine will start then die. Replaced fuel pump still does it. It's like the pump isn't keeping pressure. When we was trying to drain the tank with the fuel pump it would kick on for a second or two then shut off. it had no back pressure on it to make it shut off.
I have a periodic engine stall while driving issue with my 06 P71, when it happens i throw the car into neutral , key off while rolling , restart engine and keep going, if i dont key off it will turn over but not start, i wonder my FPDM might be acting up tripping out ? i wonder if the relay in the fuse box can start hiccuping ?
Update,; it been several months now and i hav (knock on wood) not had a stall after changing out the inertia switch in the trunk.....cheers !
This car is newer than mine, on my 95 crown Victoria, is it very similar to this, as I cannot hear my fuel pump engage like I always do, it jus DONT work, I installed a new complete fuel pump/fuelfilter too, bout 2 months ago and I never ever had a problem, but I jus replaced the center link and I jus moved it out of my shop, then bout 1 hour later my car won't start it jus turns n turns, and I cannot hear my pump engage, I'll have to check these components tommorow n see if fuses are burned out, and interica switch and driver module as well. By the way how do you check if the drive module is bad???? I certainly hope it NOT A DEALERSHIP PART, OMG, THATS GONNA BE VERY VERY EXPENSIVE😭
My fuses keep popping under my hood what does that mean
Would I be able to power the fuel pump with connecting the 2 wires in the the trunk by the inertia switch if there's a short in the regular line powering the fuel pump?
I HAVE A QUESTION I CAN HEAR LIKE ME FUEL PUMP STAYS ON WHEN I TURN OFF MY CAR CAN IT STAY ON AND WHAT CAN CAUSE IT TO STAY ON ITS A 93 GRAND MARQUIS
Awesome video thank you. How did you acquire the fuse labeling please and thank you
You can just download the owner's manual from Ford if you lost the book. Recommend at least printing out the fuses section and keeping that in the glove box.
Great video. Any ideas on why my fuse #4 is instamtly shorting out? Where to look on the wiring?
Is it shorting out without the relay in place, if it is then it's shorting out somewhere right there within the underhood fuse box, otherwise you can try and disconnect the inertia switch and if it's still shorting out then then it's a wire from the inertia switch to the fuel pump control module, But if it's only blowing the fuse with the fuel pump control module plugged in without the fuel pump plugged in under the car then you likely have a bad fuel pump control module.
Have a 08 cvpi pump primes constant with key on replaced ecm and fpdm any ideas
Hey my crown Victoria engine running when key is off and removed, what is going on?? Please help.. drives an runs like nothing is wrong, jus can’t turn the car off?
How can u tell when your fpdm is going bad in a 2003 crown Victoria..
Do you know where the ETCS is Located 2009 Crown Victoria
My 06cvpi old relay has 4 pins can I use 5 pins relay ?
So I have a 06 too. And my fuel pump relay has a jumper wire. To make it run now. Gas gauge doesn't work right and my fuel pump diode is melting. Never pops just melts. What would be the cause for that? Trying to keep my car from catching on fire.
super high resistance in the circuit
I have 2011 and the inertia switch is newer and different. It doesn't push up. It only pushes down. I'm trying to kill the fuel to engine to replace my intake manifold so gas doesn't get everywhere when I disconnect the fuel line at the rail. Any advice?
You have to smack the switch to get it to pop up, push dwn resets it
Do you know where the switch is on a 1998 crown Victoria XL
Hello, I'm having a issue with my crown vic. It's a 2010. It keeps blowing the 10amp fuse underneath the dash. You think my fuel pump going bad
Same issue... What was it?
Where’s the fuse for the buttons on steering wheel
2002 grand marquis which wire should I put a kill switch
Did you end up installing a kill switch?
What has happened if there is no power to that very first 10 amp fuse? The fuse is good there's just no power going to it. Also there is no power going to my inertia switch in the back of the trunk.
Same problem here. Did u fix yours yet?
@@cookingwithkratos yes. That fuse has nothing to do with the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is a 20 amp in the box next to the battery.
(Wrong internet info wasted me a lot of time) Make sure the tank is half full and then check the fuel pressure.
@@chopperrick The 10A fuse provides control for the FP relay, along with other systems. Info wasn't bad, just not complete.
OKAY I HAVE THIS PROBLEM MY CAR JUST TURNS OFF WHILE DRIVING I HAVE TO GET OFF AND WIGGLE THE PCM power diode then it'll start then it'll turn off again it's driving me nuts I try to bypass it by putting a fuse on there instead of the diode but now the fuse doesn't start it the car just turns off anybody have any suggestions what do I have to replace??
With wiggling the diode, corrosion in the fuse box may be a possibility. Or time spent wiggling it just gave the module enough time to cool down. Otherwise the FPDM can crap out intermittently, outright stalling or just lack of power along with not working at all.
Do this work for a 04 model
Dude help me solve my problem
Will this cover a 2004 Crown vic ?
If the fuse box looks the same then it should.
@@LehewTech Thank you....It does
How can I turn on the fuel pump from the relay. I need to pump the old fuel out of the gas tank.
Is not the same for 03/04 grand marquis
Checked both fuses jumpered the relay still got no power to inertia switch input wire to inertia switch is red with black trace do you know where it runs through the car by chance
I have a 2004 crown victoria it doesn't crank over at all I check the fused I found some burn but replaces all the fuse and still no power I put my code readers but there is no because nothing pop up I'm running out of things to do help?
I have a question. How many exwives fit in the trunk of a crown Vic? Asking for a friend!
depends if he likes the big girls or the petite ones, so 3 a the one an 6 a the other LOL
seems like a lot of $hit just to run the fuel pump
I have a 2011 CVPI
It randomly shuts off while driving.
Many times simply turning the key off and restarting the car does the trick.
BUT.
Sometimes I have to disconnect the battery for just a second. Reconnect it and it will restart.
I have done this enough times to realize that when the key turns on I hear a “Thunk”. If there is no Thunk. The car doesn’t start.
Yesterday the car started.
But today. No Thunk. No start.
I’ve swapped out relays and diodes trying to get the Thunk back without doing the battery disconnect.
I’m sure disconnecting the battery is resetting something.
I just don’t know what.
Any ideas?
BTW I agree with @georgehumphrey1566 this is probably the best 5 minutes on this topic on the whole of UA-cam.