Great info, thanks. I would like to plant dozens of trees and shrubs on my permaculture property. I think I am going to search the nearby forest for some cuttings.
Take a good sharp pair of cutting sheers to make a clean cut. Perhaps look up the type of trees too that you want, to make sure they lend themselves to propagating this way.
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture Thank you for your amazing and concise video. Do you know of any simple list that shows common tree types this will work with? I would like to plant a fruit orchard on my property in zone 5b (atlantic canada). Trees can be easily wiped out by winter temperatures here so this method of propagation seems ideal to quickly replicate trees that have withstood -35 degree temperatures.
I don't have a list, but what I can say is often commercial varieties of trees come grafted, so this wouldn't work. However, any fruiting tree that can grow in the wild, that is be self-seeded in your zone and grow, you should also be able to use this method. For sure, any native fruiting shrub, fruiting bramble or fruiting vine, you should be able to use this method. Shrubs, brambles (raspberry-rose family), and vines readily sprout roots alone the vine, cane or branch.
I've watched 8 videos on tree propagation they all tell you about rooting chemicals and soil types. Her comes this gentleman with his fine beard saying, "Don't worry about those things." Just cut in the right spots, plant it in the earth, and let nature do what it does. Sounds like a plan. Thanks 👍🏾
@@WillowsGreenPermacultureI would like to propagate root growth from a branch of a pink peppercorn tree . I cut it ,I’m keeping it in water ,it’s southern Spanish weather here ,should I keep it outside in water or in soil ,or maybe I could keep it in a car that I don’t use in my gardens sunny side ,so it keeps more humidity and warmth at night ? How long would it take ? I have them little green bits on the bottom of the branch . Thank you all help is appreciated !
If you have at least three cuttings, try all three ideas. If not, I would propagate them in the soil outdoors where I want them to grow. Because you are in an arid climate, I think, water it well, then puts lots of mulch to keep it moist. Water when dry. I’m assuming peppercorn is native. I grew some of that when I was living in Mexico. Don’t know if it’s the same kind. Anyway, if it’s native, there should be beneficial mycorrhizal fungus in the soil specifically symbiotic with the tree which will help it root and grow.
Hi I just found your channel through exploring alternatives! Your Farm is absolutely gorgeous would love to come visit I'm on the border of Quebec and Ontario in Hawkesbury I'm wondering where your farm is at? Would love to come visit
We're in Quinte West. We will be organizing visits through our page on Harvest Hastings. Stay tuned! I will make an announcent here on our Community Page when the time comes.
This is a great video! Very informative. I live on the edge of western Oklahoma, terrible dirt and hard to grow any trees. Except Cottonwoods, they grow like weeds along any water source. So maybe my confusion is due to my lack of familiarity with the tree species you were cutting at first. Like the sycamore when our trees go dormant the leaves buds are leaves. But I guess you cleared up my confusion with the sycamore, and trimming the leafed branch. But, is it those particular tree species that have leaf buds going into dormancy?
Thank you! The species I am propagating here are elderberry, nanny berry (this one is viburnum lentago if the common name is not familiar), basket willow and sycamore. Most shrubs native to your area and some trees, you should be able to do this. And yes, you can wait until the new leaf bud pushes the old leaf off in late fall before you do this. But you don’t have to, the bud is often there even before all the leaves fall off. You can do this anytime from late fall right through to late winter, so long as the ground isn’t frozen.
thanks for the video. does this work for ash tree as well? i had to trim some ash branches and i saw they seem to have these purpleish leaf buds? so i was thinking of planting them
Hi, I was wondering about distancing. Do you have an idea of how far each tree or bush needs to be from one another before you stick them in the ground?
Each tree and plant is different. However, in the wild, they can be extremely close together or far apart and be fine. Distancing is more for our own objectives of aesthetics or harvest and when it comes to that each plant is different so you’d have to specify the plant or the tree. For these cuttings, I am planting them very close together for two reasons. First, I want to create a privacy hedge with them. Second, because they are on the property line and I can’t control what goes on on the other side as far as soil health, they may not do as well as others elsewhere, so I plant extra. Even if only 1 in 5 survive I’ll be happy. And if they all survive, even better!
Yes you can, however they also grow fast from the walnut. It’s packed with nutrients for the tree. Squirrels bury walnuts all over the place here and I’m always pulling up walnut sprouts in the garden. They’re a foot high, and the wallnut is still mostly intact in the soil!
Great video. Fantastic advice about protecting pots from a harsh winter by surrounding them with organic material. I know it is said to be best to take cuttings when the plant is dormant but in your experience what is the earliest time that could be? Is it just when the leaves have fallen?
Thank you for watching and commenting! When the leaves have all fallen, the tree or shrub is dormant, yes. I have also done cuttings of shrubs when they’re not dormant and have leaves, however, if you do it that way, you have to keep the cutting shaded and watered, and the leaves will mostly eventually fall anyway.
I have put some in the ground and some in pots so that if they work I can give some away to others. I have had success with gooseberry cuttings like this but not tried elder before
I took branches of apple tree I want to take them in the house under grow lights during winter as I live cold Edmonton Canada and don't want to plant till summer
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture the tree is more than 50 years old and needed trimming as it was growing way to tall to pick apples. Is that okay and the branches are very large I would like them to stay that way so next year I could plant out at the land. Do you think it would work. Or I could pot them and put them into my greenhouse
@@amandam.139 I don’t know if large branches would root. It’s best to take young pencil thick branches, or double that width at most. You could pot them up, yes.
Yes. It should. If you have several cuttings of each, I suggest putting some in willow water first, if you have willows (young leaves and branches in water). This will stimulate root growth. Transplant when you see roots growing. The others, you could put directly in the soil, or in pots to keep a closer eye.
What about say … currant, blueberry, gooseberry etc. Actually I did by accident break a branch of my champagne currant, put it in water for a week or so, then stuck it in my greenhouse bed over winter. This spring it is growing like crazy! Quite cost effective. P.S. love your greenhouse … Brenda
Thank you Brenda! We have lots of wild gooseberry which is nice, and some cultivated. We also have a few currant bushes. I haven’t shown them before because they haven’t bloomed yet. We also have blueberry. However, I find it slow. I have to protect it too much - it’s too so small. I prefer shrubs that fend for themselves because the vegetables give me enough work. On the other hand we have something with a similar flavour and colour to blueberry. Haskaps! They’re great and are very independent!
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture You’re quickly becoming so popular I need to make my comments while there’s still time 😄. Haskap has quickly grown in popularity here in N.S., even haskap farms. I’ve been thinking of giving them a try. Haven’t been super successful with my blueberry bushes. Always amazed when I see fields upon fields of ripe luscious blueberries … and wonder where I’ve gone wrong. Must say I feel pretty much the same way about my carrot patch 😡
@@yvesberube6067 Thank you! I plan on being able to continue to respond to comments. It’s an essential part of why I do these videos. I feel the same way about blueberries. The reason why you see fields of lush blueberries is because the people who are growing them are likely 100% focused on blueberries and nothing else. Which I think is what they need. So it’s not you doing anything wrong. You are working on many things. I choose not to focus on the blueberries and I’ll see what eventually happens. For your carrots, try start them in cells. No need to do that indoors. I find them so much easier that way. I may include a short section of my next video on this.
Great info, thanks. I would like to plant dozens of trees and shrubs on my permaculture property. I think I am going to search the nearby forest for some cuttings.
Take a good sharp pair of cutting sheers to make a clean cut. Perhaps look up the type of trees too that you want, to make sure they lend themselves to propagating this way.
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture Will do, thanks for the tips! 👍
It’s a pleasure
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture Thank you for your amazing and concise video. Do you know of any simple list that shows common tree types this will work with? I would like to plant a fruit orchard on my property in zone 5b (atlantic canada). Trees can be easily wiped out by winter temperatures here so this method of propagation seems ideal to quickly replicate trees that have withstood -35 degree temperatures.
I don't have a list, but what I can say is often commercial varieties of trees come grafted, so this wouldn't work. However, any fruiting tree that can grow in the wild, that is be self-seeded in your zone and grow, you should also be able to use this method. For sure, any native fruiting shrub, fruiting bramble or fruiting vine, you should be able to use this method. Shrubs, brambles (raspberry-rose family), and vines readily sprout roots alone the vine, cane or branch.
Very informative, thank you , subscribed 😊
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I've watched 8 videos on tree propagation they all tell you about rooting chemicals and soil types. Her comes this gentleman with his fine beard saying, "Don't worry about those things." Just cut in the right spots, plant it in the earth, and let nature do what it does. Sounds like a plan. Thanks 👍🏾
Thank you!
@@WillowsGreenPermacultureI would like to propagate root growth from a branch of a pink peppercorn tree .
I cut it ,I’m keeping it in water ,it’s southern Spanish weather here ,should I keep it outside in water or in soil ,or maybe I could keep it in a car that I don’t use in my gardens sunny side ,so it keeps more humidity and warmth at night ? How long would it take ? I have them little green bits on the bottom of the branch .
Thank you all help is appreciated !
If you have at least three cuttings, try all three ideas. If not, I would propagate them in the soil outdoors where I want them to grow. Because you are in an arid climate, I think, water it well, then puts lots of mulch to keep it moist. Water when dry. I’m assuming peppercorn is native. I grew some of that when I was living in Mexico. Don’t know if it’s the same kind. Anyway, if it’s native, there should be beneficial mycorrhizal fungus in the soil specifically symbiotic with the tree which will help it root and grow.
Thank you
It's a pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Fascinating, and extremely helpful!
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found your channel from that tour you did a while back, love what you're doing!
exploring alternatives**
Thank you very much! And thank you for watching. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you'd like.
Hi I just found your channel through exploring alternatives! Your Farm is absolutely gorgeous would love to come visit I'm on the border of Quebec and Ontario in Hawkesbury I'm wondering where your farm is at? Would love to come visit
We're in Quinte West. We will be organizing visits through our page on Harvest Hastings. Stay tuned! I will make an announcent here on our Community Page when the time comes.
Awesome, thank you! 👍😎🇨🇦🌱
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Who knew it was so easy. Thank you!
Thank you for all your comments Barb! I will answer all your question over the next few days!
Great video! Thank you.
Thank you!
This is a great video! Very informative. I live on the edge of western Oklahoma, terrible dirt and hard to grow any trees. Except Cottonwoods, they grow like weeds along any water source.
So maybe my confusion is due to my lack of familiarity with the tree species you were cutting at first. Like the sycamore when our trees go dormant the leaves buds are leaves. But I guess you cleared up my confusion with the sycamore, and trimming the leafed branch. But, is it those particular tree species that have leaf buds going into dormancy?
Thank you! The species I am propagating here are elderberry, nanny berry (this one is viburnum lentago if the common name is not familiar), basket willow and sycamore. Most shrubs native to your area and some trees, you should be able to do this. And yes, you can wait until the new leaf bud pushes the old leaf off in late fall before you do this. But you don’t have to, the bud is often there even before all the leaves fall off. You can do this anytime from late fall right through to late winter, so long as the ground isn’t frozen.
thanks for the video. does this work for ash tree as well? i had to trim some ash branches and i saw they seem to have these purpleish leaf buds? so i was thinking of planting them
I’ve never tried. Ash grows everywhere here. You just look at the seeds and they sprout. They grow quickly too.
Hi, I was wondering about distancing. Do you have an idea of how far each tree or bush needs to be from one another before you stick them in the ground?
Each tree and plant is different. However, in the wild, they can be extremely close together or far apart and be fine. Distancing is more for our own objectives of aesthetics or harvest and when it comes to that each plant is different so you’d have to specify the plant or the tree. For these cuttings, I am planting them very close together for two reasons. First, I want to create a privacy hedge with them. Second, because they are on the property line and I can’t control what goes on on the other side as far as soil health, they may not do as well as others elsewhere, so I plant extra. Even if only 1 in 5 survive I’ll be happy. And if they all survive, even better!
Merci beaucoup pour le réponse détaillée! Ça va m’aider dans la future prochaine.
Ça fait plaisir!
Does this work with Walnut Trees as well please? TIA
Yes you can, however they also grow fast from the walnut. It’s packed with nutrients for the tree. Squirrels bury walnuts all over the place here and I’m always pulling up walnut sprouts in the garden. They’re a foot high, and the wallnut is still mostly intact in the soil!
Great video. Fantastic advice about protecting pots from a harsh winter by surrounding them with organic material. I know it is said to be best to take cuttings when the plant is dormant but in your experience what is the earliest time that could be? Is it just when the leaves have fallen?
Thank you for watching and commenting! When the leaves have all fallen, the tree or shrub is dormant, yes. I have also done cuttings of shrubs when they’re not dormant and have leaves, however, if you do it that way, you have to keep the cutting shaded and watered, and the leaves will mostly eventually fall anyway.
Thanks so much. Watching your video inspired me and I have taken some elder cuttings this morning. Have been meaning to do it for ages
Best of luck! You can put them right into the ground if it isn't frozen!@@drchrisharper4688
Let me know how they do next year!@@drchrisharper4688
I have put some in the ground and some in pots so that if they work I can give some away to others. I have had success with gooseberry cuttings like this but not tried elder before
I took branches of apple tree I want to take them in the house under grow lights during winter as I live cold Edmonton Canada and don't want to plant till summer
They would have to be wild apple trees. If they are from a purchased tree, it is most likely grafted and so won’t take in the soil.
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture the tree is more than 50 years old and needed trimming as it was growing way to tall to pick apples. Is that okay and the branches are very large I would like them to stay that way so next year I could plant out at the land. Do you think it would work. Or I could pot them and put them into my greenhouse
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. I don't know much. But I love your channel.
@@amandam.139 I don’t know if large branches would root. It’s best to take young pencil thick branches, or double that width at most. You could pot them up, yes.
@@amandam.139 thank you! It’s a pleasure.
Will this work with Honey Locust or flowering plum?
I meant Flowering Crab.
Yes. It should. If you have several cuttings of each, I suggest putting some in willow water first, if you have willows (young leaves and branches in water). This will stimulate root growth. Transplant when you see roots growing. The others, you could put directly in the soil, or in pots to keep a closer eye.
@@jbohio7821if the crabapple was originally grafted, then maybe not. It it’s wild, then yes.
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture this tree is about 40 years old. I thought I might try!
@@jbohio7821absolutely worth a try. You’ve got nothing to lose!
What about say … currant, blueberry, gooseberry etc. Actually I did by accident break a branch of my champagne currant, put it in water for a week or so, then stuck it in my greenhouse bed over winter. This spring it is growing like crazy! Quite cost effective. P.S. love your greenhouse … Brenda
Thank you Brenda! We have lots of wild gooseberry which is nice, and some cultivated. We also have a few currant bushes. I haven’t shown them before because they haven’t bloomed yet. We also have blueberry. However, I find it slow. I have to protect it too much - it’s too so small. I prefer shrubs that fend for themselves because the vegetables give me enough work. On the other hand we have something with a similar flavour and colour to blueberry. Haskaps! They’re great and are very independent!
@@WillowsGreenPermaculture You’re quickly becoming so popular I need to make my comments while there’s still time 😄. Haskap has quickly grown in popularity here in N.S., even haskap farms. I’ve been thinking of giving them a try. Haven’t been super successful with my blueberry bushes. Always amazed when I see fields upon fields of ripe luscious blueberries … and wonder where I’ve gone wrong. Must say I feel pretty much the same way about my carrot patch 😡
@@yvesberube6067 Thank you! I plan on being able to continue to respond to comments. It’s an essential part of why I do these videos. I feel the same way about blueberries. The reason why you see fields of lush blueberries is because the people who are growing them are likely 100% focused on blueberries and nothing else. Which I think is what they need. So it’s not you doing anything wrong. You are working on many things. I choose not to focus on the blueberries and I’ll see what eventually happens. For your carrots, try start them in cells. No need to do that indoors. I find them so much easier that way. I may include a short section of my next video on this.