I have a clone and was wondering how to get the top off. Perfect timing. Now I know it doesn’t come off. It is a Universal and says, super, zig zag, lol! Thank you
This is the closest to the machine I recently bought I have ever seen! The manual that same with mine says that it was purchased in August 1954 for the astonishingly high price of $199.50. Identical head but different control dial on the front. Not as pretty colors as yours. Green with chrome side cover. Not until now have I found one that had exaxtly the same head, even the little elevated detail on the top is the same. Same threading pattern, same retractable pin, same built in light, same plate and openings on the back. Even the manual looks really similar. Yours must be the model that came after mine. They used the same casting pattern. I wonder if the machine in this video has the name of the manufacturer cast in the bottom. I cannot quite make it out in the video. Mine says EAGLE. Thank you for posting this very helpful video!
Mine did not have the name on it, but that too is common. There were at least a dozen if not more makers of these machines in Japan at the end of WWII. The demand for machines was very high after the war and the N. American Economy was booming. A few of the makers from that time whose Japanese names were not always marketed for these private label machines they made included: Janome, Brother, Juki, and Toyota!!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage - What Singer model do you think is the closest equivalent? I have the feeling the tensioner is not quite right and the spring is bent. I wonder which Singer model might be a match regarding replacement parts.
Almost like my Grandma had! She passed in 1964. Says Deluxe Dressmaker on the nameplate badge with basically the same color scheme. The only real difference is that the tension adjustment is on the front instead of the side on mine, otherwise it looks like everything else is identical. I used it in high school (1970) to reupholster an entire car (Studebaker Sky Hawk) , including the door panels and headliner. It took awhile to figure it out but once I did even as many as 8 layers of naugahyde never seemed to bother it at all. It ‘got into trouble’ and couldn’t be used for a long, long time but since it could sew things regular machines struggled with without straining and I had sentimental attachment too I held onto it - for over 50 years! Here’s the story… A sewing machine ‘repair’ shop stripped the teeth off the large spiral bevel drive gear on the main shaft when I took it in for servicing in 1987 (they didn’t explain why or how and it was a messy story, lucky to have it at all now). I looked but couldn’t find replacements every now and then over the years but never was successful. Life happened and it’d get put in storage and forgotten for years at a stretch. When we moved this spring I decided it was time to fix it no matter what it took and I finally found gearing to replace the stripped ones. Had to get all the gears (upper and lower) to get the timing right because the sizes and gear ratios on the replacement gears had to be changed to get them to fit inside the machine. Took a bit of calculating (and perhaps some ‘words of persuasion’ now and then😇) and it’s little louder than it used to be because they’re straight teeth steel bevel gears instead of the spiral bevels it had originally, but they worked and it SEWS AGAIN after sleeping for almost 40 years! Still one problem though…. Wondering if you could tell me what the correct bobbin and case should be? I believe the ‘repair’ shop replaced my original assembly (everything on the L end of the shaft beyond the cast bearing area) which was wide with a narrow one of some sort. Even the narrowest regular Singer bobbins I have been able to find now have to be cut and narrowed to fit inside the ‘new’ bobbin case and there’s no guide pin on the outside to help the thread slide over the case & past the locking finger piece that holds the bobbin holder in correct position likecI remember there was. As the thread slips between the case and the locking arm it gets cut in two occasionally now, it never used to do that. There are about 10 old wide bobbins and a bobbin case they fit in the bottom of the machine’s carrying case under the machine. That case has the finger. If my memory is correct I believe they are the ones that I used when I did the upholstery job back in high school but the case diameter is just ever so slightly too big to go inside the receiver part that’s on the shaft now - and even if I could get it inside the stud it’s supposed to lock onto would be too short for it to catch. Hope that makes sense. Really appreciate any help anyone can offer!
Thank you for introducing me to that heat-shrink tubing product, which you mentioned in your video about tools and supplies. I have a machine, purchased used, has a frayed wire.
I acquired one of similar color. It came with its accessory box and original documentation. It turned out my husband knew the husband of the original owner. It is a beautiful machine in amazing shape.
Working on 'Brother' badged machine like this. It has a more traditional older-style Singer 15 body shape, but all the rest is like that one. Bobbin winder, feed dog knob, WindowMatic stitch length and the Precision Deluxe badge on the column. You didn't mention it (apologies if you already know) but those chrome 'dimples' on the top are oil ports. While mine is old style with simple holes, yours has been upgraded to those oil fittings. The ball in the center is spring loaded and you press the tip of your oil can on it to depress it and open the oil port. Good idea as I never liked having the open ones there that would let stuff fall in. Mine also has the light wire in a paint-matching blue. The whole factory-wired light is an assembly. My wire had cracked insulation so I rewired it. If you haven't done so already, be very careful removing the light assembly as there may be, as in mine, a lot of custom electrical parts in there. Mine sort of 'exploded' as it came out, making for an interesting puzzle going back together. Someone had been into mine before and I will have to machine a new contact for the bulb and make a new spring for it as well. All part of the fun!
Hi Keith and thank you for sharing. Yes, I was aware of the oiling 'sprung caps' but may have forgotten to mention in this video though I do mention them in others; especially the Necchi videos since they were the original user of this feature which was later copied by the Japanese for their clones such as this one.
Yes, I was thinking it might have been Brother since it shares some of the shape of the Brother and Atlas pink machines from the same era. I checked underneath the bed and it is stamped "Liberty". I also have a hunch that this machine (or those made by this producer) were sold through Montgomery Ward although there were very likely multiple private labels that this producer created machines for. Good call on the Brother resemblance Christopher!
Hi. Thanks for the interesting video. Funny that you reference both an Eton and a Windsor. The two towns in the UK called that are separated by only a narrow stretch of the River Thames. Interested that you point out the usage of the word 'De Luxe' they all seem to have that on them somewhere. UK and, I would have thought, North American consumers during the 1950s would have be familiar with the term in relation to the products of the motor industry if not from other household items. From the 1930s to the late 1960s buying a deluxe model generally got you leather seats and extra chrome trim maybe even a heater, radio and sliding roof. If you look at the likes of your Windsor with its dropping feed dogs, window-matic stitch length indicator, reverse feed and chrome trim I think it's fair to say it earns the Super Deluxe label. I'll bet it even has a quick release on the shuttle race for easy cleaning. Just imagine getting one of these for your 21st after learning to sew on Grandma's Singer 27. It would be like stepping out of a Tin Lizzie and into a T-Bird! Keep the content coming. We all love it out here in VSM land!
@gavinhenderson4522, Sorry it's four years late but I just came across this item. Just to let you know, and I hope you are well, but the "Eton" you thought he was referring to was in fact Eaton which was a surname from county Antrim, Ireland, which was the man who started the Eaton stores in Canada. They are --like many of the good family owned stores--now, sadly, defunct. Hope you have a happy Christmas...if it has any meaning now.
i would keep that old foot pedal and clean it up inside, good old metal food pedal is much better than the new plastic , right ! Thanks for all of your video, much appreciated.
Hello, I have written comments few times. It is the second time I watch this video and I realise I might be able to help you. You said that you had been waiting to find a Necchi piece... I live in Italy and my (National Treasure) Armando: sewing machine repairer for 51 years is still passionate about machines. I have sent 2 different times some pieces to a repairer in USA. Armando has so many pieces that he gave them to me and being on a military base it is very easy for me to send a little envelope.
Hello Sylvie and thank you. I actually believe I have solved the issue with the thread guide I was missing. The machine was working, but I prefer to have all the thread guides to insure it works perfectly. I was able to make a repair that I think will work without the part I was searching for. I plan on making some new videos starring this Necchi BCJ. You are so kind to offer and so I will keep this in mind in the future should I run into other parts shortages here for Necchis. I hope to travel to Italy some day and if so, I would like to visit Pavia along with many other cities there!
Hi Shawn. I'm going to share similar advice I gave to @my_dear_friend_ who asked a similar question: "The key to your getting a good belt for your machine is to measure for it. If you don't have the old original V belt, then you can take a thick yarn or cotton twine string and loop it round to connect the Hand wheel and motor pulley. Then, measure that and you should have an 'approximate' size to then order from. These generic belts are not costly. If you have any local access to a shop that sells them, you could always take in your machine and try belts out to get one that fits. But if not, they are available from many online sewing parts sellers; including those on Ebay!"
Have you ran across any Japanese clones that are made of cast aluminum instead of cast iron? Looking for an alternate for my wife's 221, and considering a 301? Anything else in that weight range with metal gears? Thanks
The only models I'm aware of that are not made from the 'heavy metals' are the Singer Featherweight and Singer 301 (Aluminum), The Kenmore 158.77 (Aluminum). NOTE: This machine has an identical model with a different model number which I don't recall that was made of iron). You would know immediately if you have the right one by just picking it up. Lastly, White produced some of its 77 Rotary machines for cases that had the letters 'MG" as part of the model number. This signified Magnesium which was almost as light as Aluminum and was also a non iron/lighter weight machine.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks. The wife bought a 221 on Monday for quilting classes, which got me "searching" for a back-up machine. I found the 301's and we bought a 301A yesterday, got it home timing was so far out it bent the needle. I've re-timed it and gave it a good cleaning. Working on bobbin tension now as the thread is bunching on the bottom, even at max tension on top. Thanks for the info on the White77 Rotary machines. I'll check them out.
Wizard was a "House Brand" for Western Auto stores. You can search for one online or seek out a PDF copy. You can also search for a PDF of machines that are shaped similar to your Wizard. Japanese made 'Clones' were often made with similar design features but with variable colors/knob decor so that the appeared to be different.
Hello Leif. Try applying a penetrant or sewing machine oil and let it sit for a few days. You can also try applying heat with a hairy dryer (carefully so as not to hurt any paint finishes). Then, you can wrap a cloth around the set screw for the feeddog control and gently turn it to the left with plyers. Don't force it but see if you sense it moving when you try these things.
I have an unusual favor to ask you. My ears are VERY sensitive. When you clear your throat, it is several decibels louder than your speaking voice and hurts my ears. Yea, I know this seems petty but I don't want to stop watching your videos for what seems a stupid reason for anyone that does not have my hearing affliction. lol I also don't know how to suggest a solution either as you have been doing it since the beginning of your youtube channel. (maybe turn away from the mic) Again...sorry for being so petty.
I have a clone and was wondering how to get the top off. Perfect timing. Now I know it doesn’t come off. It is a Universal and says, super, zig zag, lol! Thank you
This is the closest to the machine I recently bought I have ever seen! The manual that same with mine says that it was purchased in August 1954 for the astonishingly high price of $199.50. Identical head but different control dial on the front. Not as pretty colors as yours. Green with chrome side cover. Not until now have I found one that had exaxtly the same head, even the little elevated detail on the top is the same. Same threading pattern, same retractable pin, same built in light, same plate and openings on the back. Even the manual looks really similar. Yours must be the model that came after mine. They used the same casting pattern. I wonder if the machine in this video has the name of the manufacturer cast in the bottom. I cannot quite make it out in the video. Mine says EAGLE. Thank you for posting this very helpful video!
Mine did not have the name on it, but that too is common. There were at least a dozen if not more makers of these machines in Japan at the end of WWII. The demand for machines was very high after the war and the N. American Economy was booming. A few of the makers from that time whose Japanese names were not always marketed for these private label machines they made included: Janome, Brother, Juki, and Toyota!!
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage - What Singer model do you think is the closest equivalent? I have the feeling the tensioner is not quite right and the spring is bent. I wonder which Singer model might be a match regarding replacement parts.
Almost like my Grandma had! She passed in 1964. Says Deluxe Dressmaker on the nameplate badge with basically the same color scheme. The only real difference is that the tension adjustment is on the front instead of the side on mine, otherwise it looks like everything else is identical.
I used it in high school (1970) to reupholster an entire car (Studebaker Sky Hawk) , including the door panels and headliner. It took awhile to figure it out but once I did even as many as 8 layers of naugahyde never seemed to bother it at all.
It ‘got into trouble’ and couldn’t be used for a long, long time but since it could sew things regular machines struggled with without straining and I had sentimental attachment too I held onto it - for over 50 years! Here’s the story…
A sewing machine ‘repair’ shop stripped the teeth off the large spiral bevel drive gear on the main shaft when I took it in for servicing in 1987 (they didn’t explain why or how and it was a messy story, lucky to have it at all now). I looked but couldn’t find replacements every now and then over the years but never was successful. Life happened and it’d get put in storage and forgotten for years at a stretch. When we moved this spring I decided it was time to fix it no matter what it took and I finally found gearing to replace the stripped ones. Had to get all the gears (upper and lower) to get the timing right because the sizes and gear ratios on the replacement gears had to be changed to get them to fit inside the machine. Took a bit of calculating (and perhaps some ‘words of persuasion’ now and then😇) and it’s little louder than it used to be because they’re straight teeth steel bevel gears instead of the spiral bevels it had originally, but they worked and it SEWS AGAIN after sleeping for almost 40 years!
Still one problem though….
Wondering if you could tell me what the correct bobbin and case should be? I believe the ‘repair’ shop replaced my original assembly (everything on the L end of the shaft beyond the cast bearing area) which was wide with a narrow one of some sort. Even the narrowest regular Singer bobbins I have been able to find now have to be cut and narrowed to fit inside the ‘new’ bobbin case and there’s no guide pin on the outside to help the thread slide over the case & past the locking finger piece that holds the bobbin holder in correct position likecI remember there was. As the thread slips between the case and the locking arm it gets cut in two occasionally now, it never used to do that. There are about 10 old wide bobbins and a bobbin case they fit in the bottom of the machine’s carrying case under the machine. That case has the finger. If my memory is correct I believe they are the ones that I used when I did the upholstery job back in high school but the case diameter is just ever so slightly too big to go inside the receiver part that’s on the shaft now - and even if I could get it inside the stud it’s supposed to lock onto would be too short for it to catch.
Hope that makes sense.
Really appreciate any help anyone can offer!
Thank you for introducing me to that heat-shrink tubing product, which you mentioned in your video about tools and supplies. I have a machine, purchased used, has a frayed wire.
I acquired one of similar color. It came with its accessory box and original documentation. It turned out my husband knew the husband of the original owner. It is a beautiful machine in amazing shape.
Working on 'Brother' badged machine like this. It has a more traditional older-style Singer 15 body shape, but all the rest is like that one. Bobbin winder, feed dog knob, WindowMatic stitch length and the Precision Deluxe badge on the column.
You didn't mention it (apologies if you already know) but those chrome 'dimples' on the top are oil ports. While mine is old style with simple holes, yours has been upgraded to those oil fittings. The ball in the center is spring loaded and you press the tip of your oil can on it to depress it and open the oil port. Good idea as I never liked having the open ones there that would let stuff fall in.
Mine also has the light wire in a paint-matching blue. The whole factory-wired light is an assembly. My wire had cracked insulation so I rewired it. If you haven't done so already, be very careful removing the light assembly as there may be, as in mine, a lot of custom electrical parts in there. Mine sort of 'exploded' as it came out, making for an interesting puzzle going back together. Someone had been into mine before and I will have to machine a new contact for the bulb and make a new spring for it as well. All part of the fun!
Hi Keith and thank you for sharing. Yes, I was aware of the oiling 'sprung caps' but may have forgotten to mention in this video though I do mention them in others; especially the Necchi videos since they were the original user of this feature which was later copied by the Japanese for their clones such as this one.
Beautiful machine! I love the color.
Lovely. Looks Brother-y. Every lamp on vintage Japanese sewing machines is an Okusan. They really cornered that market.
Yes, I was thinking it might have been Brother since it shares some of the shape of the Brother and Atlas pink machines from the same era. I checked underneath the bed and it is stamped "Liberty". I also have a hunch that this machine (or those made by this producer) were sold through Montgomery Ward although there were very likely multiple private labels that this producer created machines for. Good call on the Brother resemblance Christopher!
Vintage Sewing Machine Garag
Hi. Thanks for the interesting video. Funny that you reference both an Eton and a Windsor. The two towns in the UK called that are separated by only a narrow stretch of the River Thames.
Interested that you point out the usage of the word 'De Luxe' they all seem to have that on them somewhere. UK and, I would have thought, North American consumers during the 1950s would have be familiar with the term in relation to the products of the motor industry if not from other household items. From the 1930s to the late 1960s buying a deluxe model generally got you leather seats and extra chrome trim maybe even a heater, radio and sliding roof. If you look at the likes of your Windsor with its dropping feed dogs, window-matic stitch length indicator, reverse feed and chrome trim I think it's fair to say it earns the Super Deluxe label. I'll bet it even has a quick release on the shuttle race for easy cleaning. Just imagine getting one of these for your 21st after learning to sew on Grandma's Singer 27. It would be like stepping out of a Tin Lizzie and into a T-Bird!
Keep the content coming. We all love it out here in VSM land!
@gavinhenderson4522, Sorry it's four years late but I just came across this item. Just to let you know, and I hope you are well, but the "Eton" you thought he was referring to was in fact Eaton which was a surname from county Antrim, Ireland, which was the man who started the Eaton stores in Canada. They are --like many of the good family owned stores--now, sadly, defunct. Hope you have a happy Christmas...if it has any meaning now.
That is a great little machine.
i would keep that old foot pedal and clean it up inside, good old metal food pedal is much better than the new plastic , right ! Thanks for all of your video, much appreciated.
Hello, I have written comments few times. It is the second time I watch this video and I realise I might be able to help you. You said that you had been waiting to find a Necchi piece... I live in Italy and my (National Treasure) Armando: sewing machine repairer for 51 years is still passionate about machines. I have sent 2 different times some pieces to a repairer in USA. Armando has so many pieces that he gave them to me and being on a military base it is very easy for me to send a little envelope.
Hello Sylvie and thank you. I actually believe I have solved the issue with the thread guide I was missing. The machine was working, but I prefer to have all the thread guides to insure it works perfectly. I was able to make a repair that I think will work without the part I was searching for. I plan on making some new videos starring this Necchi BCJ. You are so kind to offer and so I will keep this in mind in the future should I run into other parts shortages here for Necchis. I hope to travel to Italy some day and if so, I would like to visit Pavia along with many other cities there!
Do you know how or where I can look to purchase a replacement belt for a Morse MZZ ? I’m lost and need some direction. Thanks
Hi Shawn. I'm going to share similar advice I gave to @my_dear_friend_ who asked a similar question:
"The key to your getting a good belt for your machine is to measure for it. If you don't have the old original V belt, then you can take a thick yarn or cotton twine string and loop it round to connect the Hand wheel and motor pulley. Then, measure that and you should have an 'approximate' size to then order from. These generic belts are not costly. If you have any local access to a shop that sells them, you could always take in your machine and try belts out to get one that fits. But if not, they are available from many online sewing parts sellers; including those on Ebay!"
Have you ran across any Japanese clones that are made of cast aluminum instead of cast iron? Looking for an alternate for my wife's 221, and considering a 301? Anything else in that weight range with metal gears? Thanks
The only models I'm aware of that are not made from the 'heavy metals' are the Singer Featherweight and Singer 301 (Aluminum), The Kenmore 158.77 (Aluminum). NOTE: This machine has an identical model with a different model number which I don't recall that was made of iron). You would know immediately if you have the right one by just picking it up. Lastly, White produced some of its 77 Rotary machines for cases that had the letters 'MG" as part of the model number. This signified Magnesium which was almost as light as Aluminum and was also a non iron/lighter weight machine.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thanks. The wife bought a 221 on Monday for quilting classes, which got me "searching" for a back-up machine. I found the 301's and we bought a 301A yesterday, got it home timing was so far out it bent the needle. I've re-timed it and gave it a good cleaning. Working on bobbin tension now as the thread is bunching on the bottom, even at max tension on top. Thanks for the info on the White77 Rotary machines. I'll check them out.
I have a wizard 3kc 8844 made in Japan would like a book do not know how to get one
Wizard was a "House Brand" for Western Auto stores. You can search for one online or seek out a PDF copy. You can also search for a PDF of machines that are shaped similar to your Wizard. Japanese made 'Clones' were often made with similar design features but with variable colors/knob decor so that the appeared to be different.
Do you have experience it’s Morse? I have a 4500. She’s Pink. Made in Japan.
Looks similar to one I have but the name says ELECTRIC where the WINDSOR is.
How do you unstuck the feeddog control? My class 15 clone works perfectly, exept the feeddon control.
Hello Leif. Try applying a penetrant or sewing machine oil and let it sit for a few days. You can also try applying heat with a hairy dryer (carefully so as not to hurt any paint finishes). Then, you can wrap a cloth around the set screw for the feeddog control and gently turn it to the left with plyers. Don't force it but see if you sense it moving when you try these things.
I have an unusual favor to ask you.
My ears are VERY sensitive. When you clear your throat, it is several decibels louder
than your speaking voice and hurts my ears.
Yea, I know this seems petty but I don't want to stop watching your videos for what
seems a stupid reason for anyone that does not have my hearing affliction. lol
I also don't know how to suggest a solution either as you have been doing it since the beginning of your youtube channel. (maybe turn away from the mic)
Again...sorry for being so petty.