To everyone watching. I am now very much aware that this style of connector requires you to push down, not in, to unlock it. Thank you all so much who have made this abundantly clear to me. I feel foolish but hey, this is the way it goes, right? You get humbled and then you learn from it. And it really sticks when you have thousands of people to remind you of your mistake :) Thank you all for being here and making this such a great channel!
+ScannerDanner Rookie mistake lol Goe's for a lot of connectors. But then again : It's easy to criticize other people's work, when you're not the one doing it. Tight workspace, nice video again. Greetings from holland
+ScannerDanner Everybody that has worked on cars has come up on a connector or bolt that just KILLED them. Plus, it's a lot different when the car you're working on belongs to someone else.
Struggling with that connector is something I feel like we've all had to deal with but its seldom covered in youtube videos. Regardless if it was being done correctly. The video made me feel better :)
Man, we on the west coast really do have it made. Seeing that car and it pretty much falling apart sitting there, that's tough. And I thought my 89 mustang that has lived outside for 27 years was bad because of a few spots of rust. I could feel your pain when I kept seeing all the rust flakes falling off, probably right in your face. I knew it was an issue up there, but didn't know it would eat a car away in less than 10 years.
Thanks for this vid. Had exact same rotted in two cut valve solenoid on my sons 01 Xterra. Evap “large leak” for sure. All difficult to remove. Was a Pa vehicle so even some of the tubing clamps were rotten. Replaced all but the canister. PITA job. Nice vids!
Uggh - EVAP is my nemesis. I swear that system was designed solely to bilk as much money out of consumers as possible, and as an added "bonus", give backyard mechanics like myself an aneurism. So infuriating ... Wish I could afford that smoke machine! Puffing on a cigar and blowing into a hose until I'm purple ain't cuttin' it ... :D Thanks for all your vids Paul. BEST on the net, hands down. You have a rare talent that I appreciate. I've learned more in 4 hours of your vids than I have in fumbling with OBD-II since it reared it's ugly head in '96.
+Smitty Smithsonite You can make a smoke machine from a smoke machine sold during Halloween. I brought my Halloween smoke machine for 75% off a couple of days after Halloween.
Watching you struggle with that connector made me feel somewhat better lol because I had to replace that exact same valve on my 2000 Xterra for the same P0455 code and it was nasty. Nothing but rust falling on my face the whole time. Had a cracked hose also to replace. Oh, and the kicker is that, my Xterra came from PA and I live here in FL...:):)
Paul, not sure you can recollect me .. now you got many subscribers, let me try any case :).. when you do smoke testing on honda, toyota, hyundai, you need to activate two way valve, or bypass valve.. this is because the cars that i had mentioned seal canister from tank using two way valve and it is normally closed, if u dont see smoke doesnt mean that there is no leak, u need to activate the two way valve, so smoke can go from canister to tank.. just a little tip.. this is how it works, purge solenoid activates, send vaccum to canister, activate bypass or two way valve, send vaccum to tank and close the two way valve (deacgtivate), and look at FTP sensor signal. if vaccum holds good, then canister to tank is good, then it activate bypass and look at FTP sensor if vaccum doesnt hold good, then purge solenoid to canister there is a leak.. it took me a week to understand
.you show us how you are comfortable with your new toy .relay, it was very useful when you were working in the underneath area thanks Paul for your posting
I think manufactures are fighting to see which one can have the most rude connectors. I seem to struggle with a lot of them. That was a very well done video, Paul for content as well as cam work.
Good to see real life struggles I'm in Michigan so we see lots of rust and connectors can be a pain to disconnect at times that's where pocket screwdrivers save the day. Good video showing the system and really like your smoke machine
As always Paul thanks for your videos and your honesty in filming. Truly one learns from adversity and error and your "unedited" exploits often give lessons beyond the subject material. Being a good mechanic is some good percentage of conquering what the service manuals and standard hours ignore - via patience, persistence, innovation, scholarship, and in my case Italian cussing! Apropos to the PP. I LOVE my PowerProbe IV and find myself using it almost exclusively (not like the III and lower which left me cold). Yet on occasion I do pull out the LoadPro with a good DMM. E.g., when I really want to nail loaded resistance or safely test for shorts e.g. when I think water involved or safely turn on something delicate. The LoadPro applies a guaranteed 25 Ohm current to the circuit. I guess I trust it to keep me out of trouble. And when it comes to resistance I find it more accurate incrementally than the PP IV. Sometimes that accuracy counts for me. Yes one has to calculate from the voltage drop on the DMM but that's not a problem for me plus I have a cheat sheet if my brain is lazy or numbers not math friendly. BTW as an aside cheat sheets are a good item in any tool box and take up little space (tip to your students). They save time, help avoid faulty memory mistakes, and add authority sometimes when talking to customers. For example the one for resistance/voltage/amps referenced above. And those like for MAF values are handy when diagnosing. And those like for parasitic draw and its effects good for diagnosing AND making the sale. And the ones for like torque values and wire gauge requirements time saving. Along with rules of thumb there are more.. and they help. Hope you don't mind my unsolicited thoughts and thanks again.
Your videos are very well organized. Lots of information in the description box and I like that I can have the book open to the relative section so I can take notes.
+wyattoneable thanks man! I just started doing this. All of my new uploads will have this and so far I have started with my oldest videos. I have about 50 done. Only 500 more to go :( This is all part of a website redesign coming up very soon. We will be placing all of the videos in organized playlists right on the website and you'll be able to read these descriptions and watch the related videos right from there! I'm super excited about it. Again thanks so much for noticing, it means I'm doing the right thing
+ScannerDanner You definitely have my attention and the attention of some great channels out there. Eric at SMA and Ivan over at Pine hollow diagnostics to name a few.
Great patience and video. Picked up a power probe kit and a autool 206 smoke machine have not used either one yet still messing with that annoying po448 on my 06 suboe sti . May send out the pcm for inspection.
One of the best quality but OVERALL MOST DETAILED video I've seen yet. Just pure perfection for those like myself who's in need for information! Thanks @scannerdanner
I broke that plug on mine, sadly i found out later that you supposed to "press and slide down the light green tab on the connector", i made the same mistake and i was only pushing on it like you guys were doing it, i could never get it out till i broke it, for future reference and for other people remember "press and slide down " i was told that it was made like that so you could take it out with one single hand! hahahaha of course if we knew how to do it !
Hi Paul, good video! I usually spray WD40 on the connector before (5min) and that makes it so much easier! It cleans the dust in it!! And by the way on this type of connectors you have to push down on the tab not in, that would release it! cheers bro!
Hey Paul, just about every Nissan that comes into our shop has a KS code stored. For some reason, KS codes don't turn on the SES light on Nissans and won't fail you on an emissions test, at least here in TN. Most customers won't pay for diagnosis and repair of a code that doesn't keep them from passing and doesn't have any related drivability problems
I'm in Florida but we get our fair share of rust belt cars (winter Floridians). Whenever I get a connector that is that stuck, I try to use those circle tip needle nose pliers which are great at removing hoses. I grip the body of the connector with it, and use my free hand to depress the lock. Works most times, if space allows of course ;)
Now that I got farther into the vid I saw it was one of those lovely Nissan locking connectors! Those are a major PITA. You have to push the light green tab in and down. It will slide down into the connector and lock in place. Sometimes you have to bathe it in penetrating fluid so it can slide. Once you lock it in place, you can yank it off using the pliers method in my original post.
dammer teacher , his books there is a diagnostic version in Spanish , excuse my English ...... thanks for sharing your knowledge dese greetings peru , luck and blessings to his family
Thanks, I didn't even see it up there before but I think mine on a 2002 Nissan Xterra is leaking too. I've been chasing a small EVAP Leak P0442 code... My valve is rusty too and I can small gas when I'm right up close to the thing.
I'm going to have to unsubscribe, I can't believe you could not get that connector off. kidding, glad I get to learn from you. Love the channel, thanks.
You can find evap leaks with soapy water/childrens bubble formula in a spray bottle and shop air reduced to under 1psi... Just an FYI. In fact I often use soapy water in conjunction with the smoke machine for those really hard to find evap leaks. It's always rust with older Nissans.
+ScannerDanner I've never regulated 130psi down to less than 1 psi. I do have a smoke machine. I was in another shop programming a PCM, a guy that worked there said that's how he leak tests.. That's where I got the idea to use soapy water in conjunction with my smoke machine to find those really tough leaks. He was using some regulator he got online. Definitely plausible. You can probably do a bit more than 1psi but you can ruin pressure sensors on some vehicles if you do too much.
I hope this question doesn't sound dumb. But when you checked the driver circuit and had that 0.6 of a volt, I was thinking the ground voltage was high. My question is, whats to high of a voltage on a ground for these circuits? I say this cause I just worked on a 99 Toyota with a evap vent solenoid that was sticking so I replaced it confidently thinking i fixed it. Then a week later it came back with a circuit code. My feed was good (12+ volts) and the ground had a 0.7 when I energized it. Ended up being a lose computer connection, bring my ground to 0.03 after I fixed it.
Hi Paul I think a little PB BLASTER on that plug would have helped. can you do a quick vid. on the PP 4? that you used I did not follow the driver test Joe
To anyone working on the nissan connectors, You MUST clean with water soap and air pressure so that the tab he is pressing on actually slides fully down and back to release the pin, you cant just press the tab, the whole slider is spring loaded,
Hey Dude, I love your tutorial, and the reason for my visit is that I am having that similar code P0440 and P01448 on my 2000 Nissan Frontier 4 cyl. engine. How does a vc/v bypass valve or the vapor canister affect the performance of the car?
Depending on where your issue is, most likely no issues at all but could at times run rich and lean from say a stuck open purge valve. If it's the vacuum cut/bypass valve, no driveability issues at all
Yeah push it forward until it clicks and locks in place then push in and remove. Same connector on their crank sensor wich you can even see on the 4 cylinders. Love the book by the way!
when doing a go vent solenoid test,,,, I install a noid light and use that to show a on/off through the ecm. could you do the same with the nissan? and with knock sensor code..... isn't the knock code a non light setting codes (meaning that code won't turn on the MIL) I have done a few nissan V6's and that was the case. which might have been the reason why they didn't what you to deal with that. But I don't know of who through your emission checks are, and they may still require that to be cleared still. (in WA state the requirement is no MIL on)
Hey Paul, I feel your pain with the rust cancer haha! The Verus Edge is freakin' sweet too. Don't know about that fancy-pants power probe though...why not just connect a test light between the two terminals and watch it light up with the bidirectional test? :)
+motoYam82 that would work too as long as both circuits were good but if the light didn't light up I would have had to find a good ground under that rusty ass frame and that wasn't happening. But I agree, we didn't need the PP4 but it is handy in a case like this.
Oh yeah if it didn't light then the PP is a great time saver...definitely faster than stretching long jumper wires to the battery :) So what's the rule of thumb...if you can't find a good ground under a car then it's ready for the crusher, right?
Amp=Volt/Ohms 11.54/4.4 = 2.62 Amps Feed test seems to be calculating the voltage drop along the wire by comparing the Batt voltage from its clips on the battery and the current(amps) it's reading through the probed wire and displaying the resistance of the circuit. Notice the Batt Voltage and Tip voltage at the bottom of the probe. V= IR V = 2.622 * 4.4 = 11.536 (or 11.54 rounded up) Basically, it's an ohmmeter using Batt voltage as the reference and measuring current flow through the tip.
+CO Jones I'm following your math for sure but here is why I do not think the tool was putting a 2.62 amp load on the feed wire. 1. when i plugged my test lead back into the PP4, there was not arc. 2. you do not press the PP$ on/off button for this test, it is automatically done by entering the feed test mode 3. so with it being automatically done, i would definitely have seen an arc when connecting that test lead to a circuit being energized with 2.62 amps. Unless it delays the load? The owners manual says less than 30ma for the feed test.
+CO Jones Here's a handy little Ohm's Law chart for DC. hi-techcontrols.com/images/ohms_chart_big.jpg I made a similar one on an index card and put it in my wallet.
+ScannerDanner The current measurement through the tip would be through a known reference mega-ohm resistor back to Batt neg just like a regular DVOM, just instead of an internal 9V battery or whatever powering the meter it's using the vehicle battery for power and the reference test voltage. A way to test if that's what it is doing is to do the test with the tip straight on the Batt Pos (0 Ohms) and through several known resistors between the tip and Batt Pos to see if the readings match the values from a regular DVOM.
+ScannerDanner I found the manual for the PPIV. On page 10-11 it says the ohm reading is the total resistance of the probed circuit back to battery. It also says you can plug an optional test lead in the green aux ground and use it like a regular ohmmeter to test things that aren't connected to the vehicle. So, I guess it is just an ohmmeter using the Batt neg clip internally as one test lead. www.powerprobe.com/images/extraInfo/PP4_Manual.pdf
Not totally sure on the operation of this valve but in general, a restriction or stuck closed EVAP vent valve will give you issues when filling your tank as you are describing.
I have a 98 qx4 and it is throwing the P0440 evap code and the P01491 vc cut v bypass v code. It has a new charcoal canister and i unclogged the hose that goes to it. A bunch of mouse poop looking stuff came out the hose when i blew it out. Is there a chance that stupid little white vacum cut bypass valve thing is whats throwing both codes? Or am i probably looking at 2 diffierent issues? Also i have very very little rust, is that why yours was such a pain in the rear?
The mouse poop 😄 would have most likely been pieces of charcoal from your old canister and it is probably throughout your entire system. You're going to have to make sure each valve opens and closes and has flow (purge and vent solenoids and all the other stupidly named Nissan evap valves lol) and that all of the other lines are clear
Hello Paul At 22:58 You mention that the power probe is draining current from the feed. How do you know that? is my assumption that the power probe is just a volt meter and the tip is just sensing the difference of potential from the negative alligator connected to the battery and the current that is being used to power the tool and the led comes from the two alligators connected to the battery.
+ScannerDanner yep, just watched it again. It doesn't change anything ("feed test"). It just calculates the resistance and you are correct, it is using the draw of the LED light. It showed tip voltage of 11.5 before entering the feed test mode and showed 11.5 after. Only difference was the resistance measurement. Again, time will tell if I can trust this calculation
This is a great example of why we should be paid for diag. It really irritates me that some auto parts stores pull codes and then lead the customer to believe they have "diaged" the car. I guess it pays off for them in the sales of O2 sensors. Hopefully they haven't cleared the codes when it ends up at my shop.
You might like this camera setup. He uses a Noga magnetic dial indicator base for a camera mount. You can stick it to anything metal and the arm has a wide range of movement. The last couple of minutes is where he shows the completed mount, the first part is him building the holder to attach it. ua-cam.com/video/vHaGJpzq9XA/v-deo.html
There is an easier way to get the electrical connector off. If you push the green piece on the connector down toward the solenoid with a screwdriver it will come off easily.
+Jacksonkellyfreak You're using the wrong voltage. You want to use the voltage drop (difference between battery voltage and tip voltage). .05 V / 4.4 ohms = 11 mA
my service engine light came on and said i had a leak in purge valve on my 2009 nissan titan, i change the gas cap and purge valve and the light still come on. what is the next step. thank u u.s.m.c.
What is the code number and you have to use factory parts on these systems sometimes. I have a nice case study on a Hyundai where an aftermarket purge valve kicked my ass
Wow, that tool makes my little Innova OBD2 scanner look like that one ear headset that came with my xbox compared to my current turtle beach headset. I bet that thing is costy though..
Hello Guys I have Nissan Xterra 2004 after 3 years old after buying it, i have this error code P1490 (Evap vent control valve/bypass valve circuit) after testing the electrical connector on the VACUUM CUT VALVE BYPASS VALVE i got 11.9v i want to know if it's normal?
Not sure where that rig is...but it looks like it lives in the rust belt! Needs to replace (that is to be read as "buy a new one") the vehicle. In other words, jack up the radiator cap, roll in another vehicle, and lower down the radiator cap. :)
Not all evap systems use vent valves 2:00 . I had a hard time diagnosing vehicles that didnt have vent valves until i understood this. Some of Toyota, Honda's etc...
+Concerned Citizen every system will have some type of normally open vent otherwise you will not be able to fill the tank. And it is always after the charcoal canister. This way the fumes get absorbed in the charcoal before opening up to the atmosphere. So when you introduce smoke into an evap system you must close off the vent. Including Toyota and Honda.
+ScannerDanner By memory a 2001ish camry for instance does not use a vent solenoid. therefore there should always be a either a slight vacuum or slight pressure in the tank. if the tank is atmospheric pressure on that system, there is a leak in the system. I will take a picture of the canister tomorrow if you want.
+ScannerDanner the tank vents through valves on the top of the canister in extreme psi conditions for safety. The systems i mainly worked on before were domestic vent valve systems, pretty different.
+Concerned Citizen it's no problem my friend. I've just done hundreds of evap leaks on just about every manufacturer and every single one of them needed a vent line blocked off to do a proper smoke test. We can disagree on this one. It's really not a big deal. Thanks
im not trying to be a problem, just trying to correct a statement that can be tricky when working on one of these popular systems. i'll send you a really helpful link...chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/www.starenvirotech.com/teacher/Magazine%20Articles/Motor%20Toyota%2006/ToyotaEVAP5.pdf its a great series, im not sure which one this is. comes up easy in google search. the nice thing about this system is this, when first coming to the vehicle, before you start it scan your tank pressure (depending on system) if its not atmospheric pressure then there is no leak. if it is atmospheric pressure there is a leak to track down. this is because the tank is not vented, unless the calibrated pressure is exceeded.
if I had that much trouble with that connector and I was the mobile guy diagnosing id cut the wires strip the insulation hook test light up turn driver on with scanner and if it lights id say alright gota go.
wow, that connector was a bitch to get off, at least the weather packing was doing its job, i spray a little wd-40 on it to put it back together when that happens
YOU HAVE TO PUSH DOWN on clips until they lock not push in like normal connections. my wife and I worked on her Altima. I was trying for 30 minutes to get a plug off! She came out and found out how to get it off! Stupid Nissan. When on the same car they have normal connections!
Cars is the most crazy things i strugle with it spends all the money from one problem to another it keeps throwing ###s it makes me think someone has the Remote to mess with us like the people that shut your tv cable without coming to your house something like that how do we know what happens .
+Blazer02LS yeah I worked as CSMgr in a manufacturing facility that Manufactured their own airline truck equipment. Fortunately one of my best friends was the head engineer and he always asked me about serviceability of our products and incorporated a lot of my ideas because that was one of my main complaints, not getting to serviceable items. Too bad engineers don't consider a technicians point of view before implementing their engineering.I had it good I guess because I had to work on things he engineered!
+Blazer02LS , kind of was my idea, I think that the engineers need to take the previous classes engineering development system ( project) completely deconstructed it and find out how they can better the previous classes system before they get their engineering degree. this gives them not only practical experience on mechanical systems but also makes them use their brain to think as we do how to make the system better and more efficient.
+Stephen Smith it's not that easy. They have restrictions and constraints to work with, or better said, work against as well. If an engineer could have their way, manufacturers would go out of business.
if that is klib he trys very hard to do what you but he is learning from you . if he is smart he will be a photo jourlnist spelling is not my best feature
To everyone watching. I am now very much aware that this style of connector requires you to push down, not in, to unlock it. Thank you all so much who have made this abundantly clear to me. I feel foolish but hey, this is the way it goes, right? You get humbled and then you learn from it. And it really sticks when you have thousands of people to remind you of your mistake :)
Thank you all for being here and making this such a great channel!
+ScannerDanner Rookie mistake lol Goe's for a lot of connectors.
But then again : It's easy to criticize other people's work, when you're not the one doing it. Tight workspace, nice video again.
Greetings from holland
+ScannerDanner Everybody that has worked on cars has come up on a connector or bolt that just KILLED them. Plus, it's a lot different when the car you're working on belongs to someone else.
+CO Jones the rust also helps this fix :D Always a joy to have rusted parts
Try changing crank sensor on a 4 cylinder Altima 03 04 ish. Similar plug and its a MAJOR pita. That whole job just sucks.. Lol.
+Auto Fix Pal YA nissan connectors can be absolutely fricking ridiculous.
Struggling with that connector is something I feel like we've all had to deal with but its seldom covered in youtube videos. Regardless if it was being done correctly. The video made me feel better :)
Man, we on the west coast really do have it made. Seeing that car and it pretty much falling apart sitting there, that's tough. And I thought my 89 mustang that has lived outside for 27 years was bad because of a few spots of rust. I could feel your pain when I kept seeing all the rust flakes falling off, probably right in your face. I knew it was an issue up there, but didn't know it would eat a car away in less than 10 years.
Thanks for this vid. Had exact same rotted in two cut valve solenoid on my sons 01 Xterra. Evap “large leak” for sure. All difficult to remove. Was a Pa vehicle so even some of the tubing clamps were rotten. Replaced all but the canister. PITA job. Nice vids!
Uggh - EVAP is my nemesis. I swear that system was designed solely to bilk as much money out of consumers as possible, and as an added "bonus", give backyard mechanics like myself an aneurism. So infuriating ...
Wish I could afford that smoke machine! Puffing on a cigar and blowing into a hose until I'm purple ain't cuttin' it ... :D
Thanks for all your vids Paul. BEST on the net, hands down. You have a rare talent that I appreciate. I've learned more in 4 hours of your vids than I have in fumbling with OBD-II since it reared it's ugly head in '96.
+Smitty Smithsonite You can make a smoke machine from a smoke machine sold during Halloween. I brought my Halloween smoke machine for 75% off a couple of days after Halloween.
+Upallnight, Not a bad idea! That thought crossed my mind, but I never thought it would work. Thanks!
+Smitty Smithsonite I made one out of an e-cig, an aquarium air pump, and some hose.
Watching you struggle with that connector made me feel somewhat better lol because I had to replace that exact same valve on my 2000 Xterra for the same P0455 code and it was nasty. Nothing but rust falling on my face the whole time. Had a cracked hose also to replace. Oh, and the kicker is that, my Xterra came from PA and I live here in FL...:):)
Paul, not sure you can recollect me .. now you got many subscribers, let me try any case :).. when you do smoke testing on honda, toyota, hyundai, you need to activate two way valve, or bypass valve.. this is because the cars that i had mentioned seal canister from tank using two way valve and it is normally closed, if u dont see smoke doesnt mean that there is no leak, u need to activate the two way valve, so smoke can go from canister to tank.. just a little tip.. this is how it works, purge solenoid activates, send vaccum to canister, activate bypass or two way valve, send vaccum to tank and close the two way valve (deacgtivate), and look at FTP sensor signal. if vaccum holds good, then canister to tank is good, then it activate bypass and look at FTP sensor if vaccum doesnt hold good, then purge solenoid to canister there is a leak.. it took me a week to understand
So glad i live in Arkansas.Although I do manage 477 vehicles in Pennsylvania. So my hat is off to you guys that work on vehicles up there.
.you show us how you are comfortable with your new toy
.relay, it was very useful when you were working in the underneath area
thanks Paul for your posting
This was great! Thanks for posting. 2002 Xterra with same code. This video helped me decide what to do... bring it to my trusted mechanic :).
I think manufactures are fighting to see which one can have the most rude connectors. I seem to struggle with a lot of them. That was a very well done video, Paul for content as well as cam work.
I bought that powerprobe a couple weeks ago and I absolutely love it.great video Paul thanks
Good to see real life struggles I'm in Michigan so we see lots of rust and connectors can be a pain to disconnect at times that's where pocket screwdrivers save the day. Good video showing the system and really like your smoke machine
As always Paul thanks for your videos and your honesty in filming. Truly one learns from adversity and error and your "unedited" exploits often give lessons beyond the subject material. Being a good mechanic is some good percentage of conquering what the service manuals and standard hours ignore - via patience, persistence, innovation, scholarship, and in my case Italian cussing!
Apropos to the PP. I LOVE my PowerProbe IV and find myself using it almost exclusively (not like the III and lower which left me cold). Yet on occasion I do pull out the LoadPro with a good DMM. E.g., when I really want to nail loaded resistance or safely test for shorts e.g. when I think water involved or safely turn on something delicate.
The LoadPro applies a guaranteed 25 Ohm current to the circuit. I guess I trust it to keep me out of trouble. And when it comes to resistance I find it more accurate incrementally than the PP IV. Sometimes that accuracy counts for me.
Yes one has to calculate from the voltage drop on the DMM but that's not a problem for me plus I have a cheat sheet if my brain is lazy or numbers not math friendly.
BTW as an aside cheat sheets are a good item in any tool box and take up little space (tip to your students). They save time, help avoid faulty memory mistakes, and add authority sometimes when talking to customers.
For example the one for resistance/voltage/amps referenced above. And those like for MAF values are handy when diagnosing. And those like for parasitic draw and its effects good for diagnosing AND making the sale. And the ones for like torque values and wire gauge requirements time saving. Along with rules of thumb there are more.. and they help.
Hope you don't mind my unsolicited thoughts and thanks again.
+FriendsInNY not at all! Thanks brother
I would like to see a video of you explaining that power probe too. I was totally lost there and it looks like a helpful tool.
Your videos are very well organized. Lots of information in the description box and I like that I can have the book open to the relative section so I can take notes.
+wyattoneable thanks man! I just started doing this. All of my new uploads will have this and so far I have started with my oldest videos. I have about 50 done. Only 500 more to go :(
This is all part of a website redesign coming up very soon. We will be placing all of the videos in organized playlists right on the website and you'll be able to read these descriptions and watch the related videos right from there! I'm super excited about it. Again thanks so much for noticing, it means I'm doing the right thing
+ScannerDanner You definitely have my attention and the attention of some great channels out there. Eric at SMA and Ivan over at Pine hollow diagnostics to name a few.
Great patience and video. Picked up a power probe kit and a autool 206 smoke machine have not used either one yet still messing with that annoying po448 on my 06 suboe sti . May send out the pcm for inspection.
One of the best quality but OVERALL MOST DETAILED video I've seen yet. Just pure perfection for those like myself who's in need for information! Thanks @scannerdanner
I found the video to be helpful. Good job with the effects of the video and lighting.
Thanks!
I broke that plug on mine, sadly i found out later that you supposed to
"press and slide down the light green tab on the connector", i made the same mistake and i was only pushing on it like you guys were doing it, i could never get it out till i broke it, for future reference and for other people remember "press and slide down " i was told that it was made like that so you could take it out with one single hand! hahahaha of course if we knew how to do it !
Nice vid Paul. Awesome camera shots. Never seen or heard of this valve till now. 👍👍
Hi Paul, good video! I usually spray WD40 on the connector before (5min) and that makes it so much easier! It cleans the dust in it!! And by the way on this type of connectors you have to push down on the tab not in, that would release it! cheers bro!
+Maic Salazar lol I know that now. You're about the 5th person to tell me that
Hey Paul, just about every Nissan that comes into our shop has a KS code stored. For some reason, KS codes don't turn on the SES light on Nissans and won't fail you on an emissions test, at least here in TN. Most customers won't pay for diagnosis and repair of a code that doesn't keep them from passing and doesn't have any related drivability problems
I'am glad i live in florida i have 2 20 year old cars and they like new on the under side and nice to work on.
I'm in Florida but we get our fair share of rust belt cars (winter Floridians). Whenever I get a connector that is that stuck, I try to use those circle tip needle nose pliers which are great at removing hoses. I grip the body of the connector with it, and use my free hand to depress the lock. Works most times, if space allows of course ;)
Now that I got farther into the vid I saw it was one of those lovely Nissan locking connectors! Those are a major PITA. You have to push the light green tab in and down. It will slide down into the connector and lock in place. Sometimes you have to bathe it in penetrating fluid so it can slide. Once you lock it in place, you can yank it off using the pliers method in my original post.
+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) sigh, I know now. Everyone is calling me on it :)
dammer teacher , his books there is a diagnostic version in Spanish , excuse my English ......
thanks for sharing your knowledge dese greetings peru , luck and blessings to his family
Thumbs up for the connector difficulty. Why cant they make friendly connectors ? Thats crazy. Liked !
this is the most intense UA-cam job I've ever seen
This one was difficult but thank you!
It may have been a small part but a BIG pain to change out! Good vid
Thanks, I didn't even see it up there before but I think mine on a 2002 Nissan Xterra is leaking too. I've been chasing a small EVAP Leak P0442 code... My valve is rusty too and I can small gas when I'm right up close to the thing.
Good video thank you for taking time and recording it.
hey Paul,
Spec for the PFT power feed test (ohms) on the Power Probe iV is
I'm going to have to unsubscribe, I can't believe you could not get that connector off. kidding, glad I get to learn from you. Love the channel, thanks.
You are a great man and wish you sccess and a very good health state
Great video, now can you come to Arizona and fix mine.
😊 👍 ❤
I thumbs up'd the video -- it was good and I have experienced the connector issues many times!
thanks man!
Good job paul. you sound like eric at SMA ha ha with the rust.
Nice video Paul rust never helps the job very good quality shoots keep up the good work
You can find evap leaks with soapy water/childrens bubble formula in a spray bottle and shop air reduced to under 1psi... Just an FYI. In fact I often use soapy water in conjunction with the smoke machine for those really hard to find evap leaks. It's always rust with older Nissans.
+Auto Fix Pal nice! can you share what you use to regulate your shop air down to 1 psi for us? Maybe a link?
+ScannerDanner I've never regulated 130psi down to less than 1 psi. I do have a smoke machine. I was in another shop programming a PCM, a guy that worked there said that's how he leak tests.. That's where I got the idea to use soapy water in conjunction with my smoke machine to find those really tough leaks. He was using some regulator he got online. Definitely plausible. You can probably do a bit more than 1psi but you can ruin pressure sensors on some vehicles if you do too much.
it was fun watching you fight the connector
I hope this question doesn't sound dumb. But when you checked the driver circuit and had that 0.6 of a volt, I was thinking the ground voltage was high. My question is, whats to high of a voltage on a ground for these circuits? I say this cause I just worked on a 99 Toyota with a evap vent solenoid that was sticking so I replaced it confidently thinking i fixed it. Then a week later it came back with a circuit code. My feed was good (12+ volts) and the ground had a 0.7 when I energized it. Ended up being a lose computer connection, bring my ground to 0.03 after I fixed it.
Hi Paul I think a little PB BLASTER on that plug would have helped. can you do a quick vid. on the PP 4? that you used I did not follow the driver test Joe
I am so glade I live in a dry climate region =D,,,,,,,
Hi Paul, thanks for share this video. =P
To anyone working on the nissan connectors, You MUST clean with water soap and air pressure so that the tab he is pressing on actually slides fully down and back to release the pin, you cant just press the tab, the whole slider is spring loaded,
love the real world problems.....rust...thanks...bob
Hey Dude, I love your tutorial, and the reason for my visit is that I am having that similar code P0440 and P01448 on my 2000 Nissan Frontier 4 cyl. engine. How does a vc/v bypass valve or the vapor canister affect the performance of the car?
Depending on where your issue is, most likely no issues at all but could at times run rich and lean from say a stuck open purge valve. If it's the vacuum cut/bypass valve, no driveability issues at all
Yeah push it forward until it clicks and locks in place then push in and remove. Same connector on their crank sensor wich you can even see on the 4 cylinders. Love the book by the way!
when doing a go vent solenoid test,,,, I install a noid light and use that to show a on/off through the ecm. could you do the same with the nissan? and with knock sensor code..... isn't the knock code a non light setting codes (meaning that code won't turn on the MIL) I have done a few nissan V6's and that was the case. which might have been the reason why they didn't what you to deal with that. But I don't know of who through your emission checks are, and they may still require that to be cleared still. (in WA state the requirement is no MIL on)
Hey Paul, I feel your pain with the rust cancer haha! The Verus Edge is freakin' sweet too. Don't know about that fancy-pants power probe though...why not just connect a test light between the two terminals and watch it light up with the bidirectional test? :)
+motoYam82 that would work too as long as both circuits were good but if the light didn't light up I would have had to find a good ground under that rusty ass frame and that wasn't happening. But I agree, we didn't need the PP4 but it is handy in a case like this.
Oh yeah if it didn't light then the PP is a great time saver...definitely faster than stretching long jumper wires to the battery :)
So what's the rule of thumb...if you can't find a good ground under a car then it's ready for the crusher, right?
+motoYam82 Hey ivan!
You sound exactly like bradley nowell, lead singer of sublime when you talk lol.
🤣
Hey Paul those connectors can be a pain, Next time push the light green part of the connector in until it clicks then it should come off.
"OK, allright Keith" :) , continues to struggle :)
Amp=Volt/Ohms 11.54/4.4 = 2.62 Amps
Feed test seems to be calculating the voltage drop along the wire by comparing the Batt voltage from its clips on the battery and the current(amps) it's reading through the probed wire and displaying the resistance of the circuit. Notice the Batt Voltage and Tip voltage at the bottom of the probe.
V= IR
V = 2.622 * 4.4 = 11.536 (or 11.54 rounded up)
Basically, it's an ohmmeter using Batt voltage as the reference and measuring current flow through the tip.
+CO Jones I'm following your math for sure but here is why I do not think the tool was putting a 2.62 amp load on the feed wire.
1. when i plugged my test lead back into the PP4, there was not arc.
2. you do not press the PP$ on/off button for this test, it is automatically done by entering the feed test mode
3. so with it being automatically done, i would definitely have seen an arc when connecting that test lead to a circuit being energized with 2.62 amps. Unless it delays the load?
The owners manual says less than 30ma for the feed test.
+CO Jones Here's a handy little Ohm's Law chart for DC.
hi-techcontrols.com/images/ohms_chart_big.jpg
I made a similar one on an index card and put it in my wallet.
+ScannerDanner The current measurement through the tip would be through a known reference mega-ohm resistor back to Batt neg just like a regular DVOM, just instead of an internal 9V battery or whatever powering the meter it's using the vehicle battery for power and the reference test voltage.
A way to test if that's what it is doing is to do the test with the tip straight on the Batt Pos (0 Ohms) and through several known resistors between the tip and Batt Pos to see if the readings match the values from a regular DVOM.
+ScannerDanner I found the manual for the PPIV. On page 10-11 it says the ohm reading is the total resistance of the probed circuit back to battery.
It also says you can plug an optional test lead in the green aux ground and use it like a regular ohmmeter to test things that aren't connected to the vehicle. So, I guess it is just an ohmmeter using the Batt neg clip internally as one test lead.
www.powerprobe.com/images/extraInfo/PP4_Manual.pdf
mr scanner danner I like that verus edge thats my next one
Will these leaking cause the fuel to back out of the tank while fueling up? Trying to trouble shoot a couple problems.
Not totally sure on the operation of this valve but in general, a restriction or stuck closed EVAP vent valve will give you issues when filling your tank as you are describing.
I have a 98 qx4 and it is throwing the P0440 evap code and the P01491 vc cut v bypass v code. It has a new charcoal canister and i unclogged the hose that goes to it. A bunch of mouse poop looking stuff came out the hose when i blew it out. Is there a chance that stupid little white vacum cut bypass valve thing is whats throwing both codes? Or am i probably looking at 2 diffierent issues? Also i have very very little rust, is that why yours was such a pain in the rear?
The mouse poop 😄 would have most likely been pieces of charcoal from your old canister and it is probably throughout your entire system. You're going to have to make sure each valve opens and closes and has flow (purge and vent solenoids and all the other stupidly named Nissan evap valves lol) and that all of the other lines are clear
thanks Paul Danner
Hello Paul
At 22:58 You mention that the power probe is draining current from the feed. How do you know that? is my assumption that the power probe is just a volt meter and the tip is just sensing the difference of potential from the negative alligator connected to the battery and the current that is being used to power the tool and the led comes from the two alligators connected to the battery.
+Alta9610 The "Feed Test" puts
+ScannerDanner yep, just watched it again. It doesn't change anything ("feed test"). It just calculates the resistance and you are correct, it is using the draw of the LED light.
It showed tip voltage of 11.5 before entering the feed test mode and showed 11.5 after. Only difference was the resistance measurement.
Again, time will tell if I can trust this calculation
only wish there were more danners around to teach the facts
Seen alot of loose gas fill caps cause EVAP codes, from what I remember.
ive got a P0455 on my 2001 pathfinder how much did you charge to fix the leak?
If your truck is as rusty as this one, expect to pay a lot more for the repair.
This is a great example of why we should be paid for diag. It really irritates me that some auto parts stores pull codes and then lead the customer to believe they have "diaged" the car. I guess it pays off for them in the sales of O2 sensors. Hopefully they haven't cleared the codes when it ends up at my shop.
I have a 2000 nissan pathfinder do they have the sensor also?
where did you buy a replacement vacuum cut valve-bypass valve (solenoid)??
from Nissan? not sure, I just tell the garage what to do
1490
You might like this camera setup. He uses a Noga magnetic dial indicator base for a camera mount. You can stick it to anything metal and the arm has a wide range of movement. The last couple of minutes is where he shows the completed mount, the first part is him building the holder to attach it.
ua-cam.com/video/vHaGJpzq9XA/v-deo.html
Can this cause a constant missfire on cyl 6?
There is an easier way to get the electrical connector off. If you push the green piece on the connector down toward the solenoid with a screwdriver it will come off easily.
Using Ohm's law it's putting 2.61 amps of current on that circuit. E/R=I. So 11.49/4.4=2.61
+Jacksonkellyfreak You're using the wrong voltage. You want to use the voltage drop (difference between battery voltage and tip voltage).
.05 V / 4.4 ohms = 11 mA
Nick Johnson
Aw piss I knew that seemed way too high for that circuit. Sorry bout that.
+Jacksonkellyfreak your math is correct
Concerned Citizen
Math is correct, just used the wrong voltage lol. I hate electricity.
if i understand correctly .05 volts is the voltage drop not the souirce voltage of the load.
my service engine light came on and said i had a leak in purge valve on my 2009 nissan titan, i change the gas cap and purge valve and the light still come on. what is the next step. thank u u.s.m.c.
What is the code number and you have to use factory parts on these systems sometimes. I have a nice case study on a Hyundai where an aftermarket purge valve kicked my ass
Wow, that tool makes my little Innova OBD2 scanner look like that one ear headset that came with my xbox compared to my current turtle beach headset. I bet that thing is costy though..
It certainly is $10k for the Verus. But it's more than just a scan tool
Hello Guys
I have Nissan Xterra 2004 after 3 years old after buying it, i have this error code P1490 (Evap vent control valve/bypass valve circuit) after testing the electrical connector on the VACUUM CUT VALVE BYPASS VALVE i got 11.9v i want to know if it's normal?
You need to know if the circuit is power or ground side switched and whether the circuit was on or off during the test
what is that tool? at 17:52 to unscrew the valve
You know what's funny got an 04 xterra same problem with the same damn rust
same thing here in Minnesota everything rusted just like that
Not sure where that rig is...but it looks like it lives in the rust belt! Needs to replace (that is to be read as "buy a new one") the vehicle. In other words, jack up the radiator cap, roll in another vehicle, and lower down the radiator cap.
:)
Not all evap systems use vent valves 2:00 . I had a hard time diagnosing vehicles that didnt have vent valves until i understood this. Some of Toyota, Honda's etc...
+Concerned Citizen every system will have some type of normally open vent otherwise you will not be able to fill the tank. And it is always after the charcoal canister. This way the fumes get absorbed in the charcoal before opening up to the atmosphere. So when you introduce smoke into an evap system you must close off the vent. Including Toyota and Honda.
+ScannerDanner By memory a 2001ish camry for instance does not use a vent solenoid. therefore there should always be a either a slight vacuum or slight pressure in the tank. if the tank is atmospheric pressure on that system, there is a leak in the system. I will take a picture of the canister tomorrow if you want.
+ScannerDanner the tank vents through valves on the top of the canister in extreme psi conditions for safety. The systems i mainly worked on before were domestic vent valve systems, pretty different.
+Concerned Citizen it's no problem my friend. I've just done hundreds of evap leaks on just about every manufacturer and every single one of them needed a vent line blocked off to do a proper smoke test.
We can disagree on this one. It's really not a big deal. Thanks
im not trying to be a problem, just trying to correct a statement that can be tricky when working on one of these popular systems. i'll send you a really helpful link...chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/www.starenvirotech.com/teacher/Magazine%20Articles/Motor%20Toyota%2006/ToyotaEVAP5.pdf
its a great series, im not sure which one this is. comes up easy in google search. the nice thing about this system is this, when first coming to the vehicle, before you start it scan your tank pressure (depending on system) if its not atmospheric pressure then there is no leak. if it is atmospheric pressure there is a leak to track down. this is because the tank is not vented, unless the calibrated pressure is exceeded.
What is reverse thread? The core pin of the valve?
Clockwise loosens and counterclockwise tightens
Hey paul whats up with jimmy he is MIA???
if I had that much trouble with that connector and I was the mobile guy diagnosing id cut the wires strip the insulation hook test light up turn driver on with scanner and if it lights id say alright gota go.
smash it with a hammer lol another good video man.
For sure. Thanks man
What kinda car is this?
wow, that connector was a bitch to get off, at least the weather packing was doing its job, i spray a little wd-40 on it to put it back together when that happens
The school can afford a $3,000 scanner but can't afford a $5 can of penetrating oil?
Steve Warren 3000 try 10k
Exactly!
Having issue with p0448
evap leaks in a nutshell, find the the most rotten part, fix that and make sure the valves work and seal when they are closed.
The UK must be in the same rust belt
Next time bite that connector LOL
What are you doing dude there is a release clip access on the opposite side of the harness 🤣😂
Lol, where were you when I needed you 🙂
YOU HAVE TO PUSH DOWN on clips until they lock not push in like normal connections.
my wife and I worked on her Altima. I was trying for 30 minutes to get a plug off! She came out and found out how to get it off! Stupid Nissan. When on the same car they have normal connections!
Cars is the most crazy things i strugle with it spends all the money from one problem to another it keeps throwing ###s it makes me think someone has the Remote to mess with us like the people that shut your tv cable without coming to your house something like that how do we know what happens .
its all fun and games till someone losses an eye!
Where wouldn't a car rust besides inside a garage ??
What if you don't have one of those>
That is not an option. Some guys are using compressed air and soap and water but I am not suggesting you do that. It is super dangerous
Ridiculous, I'll bet the Nissan engineer never replaced one of these let alone a Rusty one, just getting to the connector, WOW!
+Stephen Smith Typical engineering for all makes these days. Design for speed of assembly, not repair.
+Blazer02LS yeah I worked as CSMgr in a manufacturing facility that Manufactured their own airline truck equipment. Fortunately one of my best friends was the head engineer and he always asked me about serviceability of our products and incorporated a lot of my ideas because that was one of my main complaints, not getting to serviceable items. Too bad engineers don't consider a technicians point of view before implementing their engineering.I had it good I guess because I had to work on things he engineered!
Stephen Smith My idea was to take the engineers and stick them in a service shop for 6 months before they can design a single item on a vehicle.
+Blazer02LS , kind of was my idea, I think that the engineers need to take the previous classes engineering development system ( project) completely deconstructed it and find out how they can better the previous classes system before they get their engineering degree. this gives them not only practical experience on mechanical systems but also makes them use their brain to think as we do how to make the system better and more efficient.
+Stephen Smith it's not that easy. They have restrictions and constraints to work with, or better said, work against as well.
If an engineer could have their way, manufacturers would go out of business.
rip lol coulda broke the lock on it by smacking up on the other screwdriver with a screwdriver lol #justkissthetips #PPL4L
And Jesus. Lol. I'm in south Louisiana and the salt water here just destroys everything. This vehicle is worse tho.
push down the grren connecto....r jeeeeee jeeeeee dont fight jeeeeeeee jeeeeeee
yes, I am aware of this now
if that is klib he trys very hard to do what you but he is learning from you . if he is smart he will be a photo jourlnist spelling is not my best feature