There's a lot of people out there that just over looks the maintenance of the vehicle. The engine air filter,cabin air filter,even like what you did about cleaning the mass air flow sensor. Just simple things,but sometimes when the small things are over looked it can add up to a big thing! Even something as easy as making sure the throttle body ain't gunked up. Enjoy your vids man,honest and to the point! That's a rare thing any more! 👍👍
They joke over here in the UK, that you've just done an Italian Tune Up. Otherwise known as "Ragging it", or "getting on it". I get reminded to do this as I am a naturally easy driver. And very rarely use full throttle.
Thanks for the video Kenny nicely done 👍❤❤. Take care of yourself and family and friends and be Blessed. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family ❤️.
What good will that do? STFT is real time so there's nothing to reset. If you wipe the kam, LTFT will just be on hold until the pcm has new data to replace the old. Even if you don't clear the kam, the same exact LTFT will replace the same exact data either way. If the trims are off, you have to find out what's causing them to be off. Just clearing the memory is not going to change anything.
Only good cold air intake is the Home Depot vacuum hose attached the the bottom of the air filter box with the snorkel where the fog light goes and a weep screen on filter. Check out focus fanatics. 😉
Merry Christmas Kenny. I work part time at a local AZ store. I give out those printed reports. I tell people that the codes shown MAY or MAY NOT be the issue. That paperwork provides the customer a starting point so they can have some knowledge when they take the vehicle to a mechanic. I also tell people to have their vehicle PROFESSIONALLY scanned. What we have is nothing more than a OBD2 reader that connects to a computer. The computer software then "recommends" a likely fix. It is nothing more than a way for AZ (and other parts stores) to sell parts. It's all about the money.
When they bring the car back, there are more things you can do to get a more accurate diag. If you plug your SnapOn scanner in and look through the menus, you should see an option that allows you to access Ford's evap test. All you have to do is run the test and follow the on screen instructions. Its a complete self diagnostic of the entire evap system. Ford's version of an evap test is very through. Its not always 100% conclusive, but it can be a big help. The scan tool does all the work, so there's no reason to not run the test. As far as fuel trims go, you shouldn't have to reset them. You can reset kam and you'll loose your ltft numbers, but you're just going to have to wait for new data. New data will replace the old even if you don't clear the memory. Also, when you're looking at stft's its OK to see big numbers as long as you see a correction. For example, if you see +20% followed by -20% (or something close), that's not a problem. It shows the system is working. When you're driving and have to do something abrupt, like heavy acceleration to merge in traffic, you can get extreme stft numbers and its perfectly fine, so long as you see the pcm try and compensate. A 171 is a fairly generic code. Instead of going by just DTC's, look at the data stream before you buy new O2 sensors. Navigate to the output voltage for the O2 sensors. Anything above 450mv is rich, and anything below it is lean. See if those numbers make sense when comparing them to whatever dtc's you have. You didn't mention this is the video, but if you have a drivability issue, and you think the problem may be O2 sensor related, here's a very useful trick. Create an open loop condition, like when the engine is cold from sitting overnight. Set your scanner up and navigate to the data stream before you start the engine. Watch the line on the scanner that says open/closed loop. If the motor is running OK in open loop and then starts to give issues when the pcm switches to closed loop, that tells you the problem is most likely O2 sensor related. If there's no change in how the vehicle runs when it makes the crossover to closed loop, look somewhere else. O2 sensors are not the problem. The reason for this is when your O2 sensors are cold, they give bad readings. They have to be at least 600 degrees to work. When the car is in open loop, your O2 sensors are bypassed. If the pcm takes the readings from cold O2 sensors, you would get a check engine light whenever you start the car when the motor is cold. You can use the bypassing of the O2 sensors as a diagnostic tool.
Our 2012 Toyota Rav4 with the 2.5 had the same thing. The down stream O2 sensor had a rich code. Looked up a TSB from Toyota and it said that the up stream O2 sensor or the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor was stuck lean to replace it. The Check engine light hasn't been on since I replaced the air fuel ratio sensor. Merry Christmas Kenny! 🎄❄⛄🎉
Hello Kenny, the budget scan tool recommended above is not available. Can you update that? I am ready to purchase one but am curious what you would recommend. Thanks
That air filter is filthy and not fitted properly. Best to include a filter clean and refit with whatever you do to that ST. K&N are fine but they aren't fit and forget.
A 136 is a fairly generic code. If you get one, you have to diagnose the vehicle to find out what's causing it. That's a bank one downstream code. What was the voltage reading on it? Is there a drivability issue? If you want to find out what the problem is, you have to do some work. You can guess and fire the parts canon, and you may get lucky. But if I had to guess, changing oil types wouldn't be the first on my list. Maybe, if you have a GDI system and the new oil washes off the cylinder wall easier than the correct oil, you can burn oil faster than normal, and as a result, possibly set a code. Odd things like that do happen sometimes, so its hard to rule out. Just do a standard diag on it first, and if that doesn't work out, then look at the long shots. However, there's 1 exception. Your first step in any diag is to check for any known recalls or TSB's. If there is one of those odd problems and Toyota knows about it, they'll issue a bulletin stating what the problem is and how to fix it. So, if there's a bulletin for your issue, just stop everything and do what it says.
@052RC ok I guess you didn't understand my msgs. The car has fixed itself with no parts reqd. Problem started 3 days after installing Edge oil and disappeared about 2-3 months after replacing it with another brand. So I won't be doing anything. Thanks.
I actually worked at Auto-something for a few years. Far too many of my coworkers treated our code reader as a diagnosis. It only spits out codes. Far too many uninformed customers would trust this as a diagnosis
I work at Auto Zone for 5 weeks in early 2024 and did a few "free diagnostics". Complete garbage. Same with Advance Auto and O'Reillys and NAPA. All junk. All push to their sales register to chase parts. Use a local, highly regarded, competent repair shop with a good reputation and yes, you will have to pay for a real scan and diagonistcs but in the long run, worth it. Here in Savannah GA its around $145.00 to $165.00 for a real one.
Little things like checking a battery,no big deal,but actually diagnosing an engine issue,no way! Thankfully though,in the town i live in,i know all the workers at our Autozone,and they are pretty honest. Thank God for small towns! Well,around where i'm from where i live now is a city. Population 16,000. I grew up in a town with Population 140 though! One of them towns where,if you do something wrong on the other side of town,by the time you get home,your parents already heard about,and they meet you at the door with a belt!😂
the auto parts store advice is what it is, looks like that one is pretty lame, I have a 2014 wrangler on my lift right now , I asked my customer to stop at a parts place and get a code when I got the first call so I would have some idea came up P06DD, most likely cause was an oil pump, this time Oriellys got it right but it also has a leaking oil cooler and the common pentaster tick looks like the rockers and cam were not getting oil I am hoping I can save it it does run ok but some of the cam lobes have rust on them!! really scary, no oil getting to the top
Should be within a few percent of 0 provided the engine is at operating temperature and the outside air is not at an extreme. And that's for both the short term and the long term readings.
What kind of problem are you having? That's where you need to start. Having fuel trims to be within a few percent of 0 is pure fantasy. STFT can vary greatly and its perfectly normal so long as the pcm compensates. If you see STFT at +20%, then see -20% (or close to it) on the data stream, its perfectly normal. If you see +20% with no sign of correction, then you have a problem. What's the car doing?
Parts stores want to sell parts. The trouble is not even the parts store people know enough or care enough to dig into a lengthy diagnosis. A $20 scanner won’t do much of anything, a $75 scanner is a little better but it’s far short of the $5000 dollar scanner which no parts store is likely to use or have employees that can help you enough to get an actual cause and effect scenario that would lead to placing trust in their diagnostic abilities. They are preying on your state of mind and they are taking advantage of your inability to comprehend the problem. Most people don’t know what a carburetor is or what a purge valve does. Car’s used to be simple but the average mechanic shop could resolve the problems with only minimal tools. Just remember that parts store’s are not mechanic’s shops and advice from them is not to be truthful but to steer you to buying parts.
If that's true then you should know cold O2 sensors and cats don't work properly, so the PCM runs in open loop until everything reaches a minimum operating temperature. When the PCM is in open loop data from the O2 sensors are ignored, and a special fuel mapping strategy is in place until the PCM crossed over into closed loop. If open loop operation didn't exist, you would get a check engine light every time you start your car when the motor is cold. That's also why modern O2 sensors are self heating.
Code diagnostic from parts store is nice you can get the codes and look into it yourself or give them to your mechanic but don't just buy a corresponding part an bolt it on. The Successful repair rate That is low it's a free Educated guess unless you get someone at the Parts store with some repair experience. Not to be down on anyone but pretty unlikely these days. If you like you're being saved money cause mechanic charges you an hour or 2 labor but this is the problem that our tool labor is to drive it and double check they're repair that's where the money is. Ideal with this on almost the daily basis customer says it's this the guide part store says it's this I don't have the tools can you just replace it and I say No I need to do the diagnostic myself to guarantee your repair. Honestly I wish part stores would stop doing that. Unless they have technicians on staff. But you can't have those guys do that for free so you figured out
The parts stores do that to say this is what wrong oh we have the part for that I'm here I know what the problem is so I will buy the parts and go home and put them in and it will be fixed and I don't have to worry about it but come to find out it didn't fix it and I now have to find out what is wrong with this thing I'm not going back to the parts store tomorrow I'll go to another one
Merry Christmas, Kenny. You don’t have to go bananas!
I hate those oily air filters that most always coats the hot wire in the MAF with goo.
Hey,Kenny wealth of knowledge from your vids,thanks,Merry Christmas
There's a lot of people out there that just over looks the maintenance of the vehicle. The engine air filter,cabin air filter,even like what you did about cleaning the mass air flow sensor. Just simple things,but sometimes when the small things are over looked it can add up to a big thing! Even something as easy as making sure the throttle body ain't gunked up. Enjoy your vids man,honest and to the point! That's a rare thing any more! 👍👍
They joke over here in the UK, that you've just done an Italian Tune Up.
Otherwise known as "Ragging it", or "getting on it".
I get reminded to do this as I am a naturally easy driver. And very rarely use full throttle.
Thanks for the video Kenny nicely done 👍❤❤. Take care of yourself and family and friends and be Blessed. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family ❤️.
Does it bring up Wrenching with Kenny videos?
Merry Christmas to you and Mrs wrenching 😊
I have the ArtiDiag 600S from Topdon and it works great. It looks similar to the one you show here.
You should have used the PCM reset option under Special Functions. That would clear the fuel trims.
What good will that do? STFT is real time so there's nothing to reset. If you wipe the kam, LTFT will just be on hold until the pcm has new data to replace the old. Even if you don't clear the kam, the same exact LTFT will replace the same exact data either way. If the trims are off, you have to find out what's causing them to be off. Just clearing the memory is not going to change anything.
Only good cold air intake is the Home Depot vacuum hose attached the the bottom of the air filter box with the snorkel where the fog light goes and a weep screen on filter.
Check out focus fanatics. 😉
I can't stand those air filters, to each it's own. I think you're right Kenny, keep us posted. Merry Christmas.
Thanks Kenny. I was getting tired of watching Christmas movies. Happy Holidays to You and yours.
Merry Christmas Kenny. I work part time at a local AZ store. I give out those printed reports. I tell people that the codes shown MAY or MAY NOT be the issue. That paperwork provides the customer a starting point so they can have some knowledge when they take the vehicle to a mechanic. I also tell people to have their vehicle PROFESSIONALLY scanned. What we have is nothing more than a OBD2 reader that connects to a computer. The computer software then "recommends" a likely fix. It is nothing more than a way for AZ (and other parts stores) to sell parts. It's all about the money.
merry christmas to you and mrs wrench
When they bring the car back, there are more things you can do to get a more accurate diag. If you plug your SnapOn scanner in and look through the menus, you should see an option that allows you to access Ford's evap test. All you have to do is run the test and follow the on screen instructions. Its a complete self diagnostic of the entire evap system. Ford's version of an evap test is very through. Its not always 100% conclusive, but it can be a big help. The scan tool does all the work, so there's no reason to not run the test.
As far as fuel trims go, you shouldn't have to reset them. You can reset kam and you'll loose your ltft numbers, but you're just going to have to wait for new data. New data will replace the old even if you don't clear the memory. Also, when you're looking at stft's its OK to see big numbers as long as you see a correction. For example, if you see +20% followed by -20% (or something close), that's not a problem. It shows the system is working. When you're driving and have to do something abrupt, like heavy acceleration to merge in traffic, you can get extreme stft numbers and its perfectly fine, so long as you see the pcm try and compensate.
A 171 is a fairly generic code. Instead of going by just DTC's, look at the data stream before you buy new O2 sensors. Navigate to the output voltage for the O2 sensors. Anything above 450mv is rich, and anything below it is lean. See if those numbers make sense when comparing them to whatever dtc's you have. You didn't mention this is the video, but if you have a drivability issue, and you think the problem may be O2 sensor related, here's a very useful trick. Create an open loop condition, like when the engine is cold from sitting overnight. Set your scanner up and navigate to the data stream before you start the engine. Watch the line on the scanner that says open/closed loop. If the motor is running OK in open loop and then starts to give issues when the pcm switches to closed loop, that tells you the problem is most likely O2 sensor related. If there's no change in how the vehicle runs when it makes the crossover to closed loop, look somewhere else. O2 sensors are not the problem. The reason for this is when your O2 sensors are cold, they give bad readings. They have to be at least 600 degrees to work. When the car is in open loop, your O2 sensors are bypassed. If the pcm takes the readings from cold O2 sensors, you would get a check engine light whenever you start the car when the motor is cold. You can use the bypassing of the O2 sensors as a diagnostic tool.
Merry Christmas Kenny. Blessings for your family.
Thanks Kenny and Merry Christmas and God bless y'all
Just saw Santa Claus fly over ❤🎉 Headed to your house Mr Kenny, hope he brings you and Mrs Meg all your wishes and joy. 😊🎉
Have to clear memory separately to clear fuel trim on Fords. Merry Christmas!
Good bit of fault finding Kenny.
Your the man Kenny good move when the owner brought it to you
Thank you for the video. Merry Christmas Kenny
Our 2012 Toyota Rav4 with the 2.5 had the same thing. The down stream O2 sensor had a rich code. Looked up a TSB from Toyota and it said that the up stream O2 sensor or the Air Fuel Ratio Sensor was stuck lean to replace it. The Check engine light hasn't been on since I replaced the air fuel ratio sensor. Merry Christmas Kenny! 🎄❄⛄🎉
Merry Christmas, Kenny.
Italian tune-up for the win
Vice Grip special?
The focus ST doesn't have a mass air meter. The sensor you see at the intake is just a temp sensor. The ST is a speed density engine.
75% tech 25% wrenching nowadays
Get rid of the K&N!
Get rid of the Ford
The modern k&n is shit, you can literally see through the fibers paper only for me.
Have very nice holidays and until next time.
Customer: My car is making a rattling sound from the engine.
Auto parts store: Definitely the muffler bearings.
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) maybe?
Like the clean shave look and goatee.
Looks like a 1 minute, oh shit I gotta go, out the door shave, by candle light! 😁
Merry Christmas Kenny
Italian tune up works 😂
Hello Kenny, the budget scan tool recommended above is not available. Can you update that? I am ready to purchase one but am curious what you would recommend. Thanks
Merry Christmas everyone 🎉
That air filter is filthy and not fitted properly. Best to include a filter clean and refit with whatever you do to that ST. K&N are fine but they aren't fit and forget.
They will just pull the codes which is a starting point ! Then try and sell you replacement parts related to that DTC !
The Italian Tune-Up 🙂
I don't trust the part store scanner...
Merry Christmas. Love to all.
K have you heard of a p0136 code being set by changing oil types in a Toyota? Downstream O2 sensor.
A 136 is a fairly generic code. If you get one, you have to diagnose the vehicle to find out what's causing it. That's a bank one downstream code. What was the voltage reading on it? Is there a drivability issue? If you want to find out what the problem is, you have to do some work. You can guess and fire the parts canon, and you may get lucky. But if I had to guess, changing oil types wouldn't be the first on my list. Maybe, if you have a GDI system and the new oil washes off the cylinder wall easier than the correct oil, you can burn oil faster than normal, and as a result, possibly set a code. Odd things like that do happen sometimes, so its hard to rule out. Just do a standard diag on it first, and if that doesn't work out, then look at the long shots. However, there's 1 exception. Your first step in any diag is to check for any known recalls or TSB's. If there is one of those odd problems and Toyota knows about it, they'll issue a bulletin stating what the problem is and how to fix it. So, if there's a bulletin for your issue, just stop everything and do what it says.
@052RC ok I guess you didn't understand my msgs. The car has fixed itself with no parts reqd. Problem started 3 days after installing Edge oil and disappeared about 2-3 months after replacing it with another brand. So I won't be doing anything. Thanks.
I actually worked at Auto-something for a few years. Far too many of my coworkers treated our code reader as a diagnosis. It only spits out codes. Far too many uninformed customers would trust this as a diagnosis
What was the O2 voltages?
No Interstate highway nearby to blow the cobwebs out of the Focus?
A nice 75 mph ten minute run should clean it up !
Most trouble codes are a result of a loose nut behind the wheel. Right Kenny?
Never would have autoparts store tell me what's wrong with my vehicles
I work at Auto Zone for 5 weeks in early 2024 and did a few "free diagnostics".
Complete garbage.
Same with Advance Auto and O'Reillys and NAPA.
All junk.
All push to their sales register to chase parts.
Use a local, highly regarded, competent repair shop with a good reputation and yes, you will have to pay for a real scan and diagonistcs but in the long run, worth it.
Here in Savannah GA its around $145.00 to $165.00 for a real one.
I run premium no ethanol i hate ethanol
Happy Christmas and blessings in Jesus Christ to you and your family
Really I would trust those guys at the auto parts store to diagnose my car. You would have to be an idiot. Thank you for the videos Merry Christmas.
Little things like checking a battery,no big deal,but actually diagnosing an engine issue,no way! Thankfully though,in the town i live in,i know all the workers at our Autozone,and they are pretty honest. Thank God for small towns! Well,around where i'm from where i live now is a city. Population 16,000. I grew up in a town with Population 140 though! One of them towns where,if you do something wrong on the other side of town,by the time you get home,your parents already heard about,and they meet you at the door with a belt!😂
the auto parts store advice is what it is, looks like that one is pretty lame, I have a 2014 wrangler on my lift right now , I asked my customer to stop at a parts place and get a code when I got the first call so I would have some idea came up P06DD, most likely cause was an oil pump, this time Oriellys got it right but it also has a leaking oil cooler and the common pentaster tick looks like the rockers and cam were not getting oil I am hoping I can save it it does run ok but some of the cam lobes have rust on them!! really scary, no oil getting to the top
what should the high and low fuel trim be to be normal I have a bluedriver scan system.
Should be within a few percent of 0 provided the engine is at operating temperature and the outside air is not at an extreme. And that's for both the short term and the long term readings.
What kind of problem are you having? That's where you need to start. Having fuel trims to be within a few percent of 0 is pure fantasy. STFT can vary greatly and its perfectly normal so long as the pcm compensates. If you see STFT at +20%, then see -20% (or close to it) on the data stream, its perfectly normal. If you see +20% with no sign of correction, then you have a problem. What's the car doing?
i dont have a problem just needed to know what the fuel trims should be is all.
MAF sensor dirty?
It doesn't have one.
The fact that it makes no sense makes sense.merry christmas!
Parts stores want to sell parts. The trouble is not even the parts store people know enough or care enough to dig into a lengthy diagnosis.
A $20 scanner won’t do much of anything, a $75 scanner is a little better but it’s far short of the $5000 dollar scanner which no parts store is likely to use or have employees that can help you enough to get an actual cause and effect scenario that would lead to placing trust in their diagnostic abilities.
They are preying on your state of mind and they are taking advantage of your inability to comprehend the problem.
Most people don’t know what a carburetor is or what a purge valve does. Car’s used to be simple but the average mechanic shop could resolve the problems with only minimal tools.
Just remember that parts store’s are not mechanic’s shops and advice from them is not to be truthful but to steer you to buying parts.
LAUNCH X431
Currently unavailable 😮
correct name is aftermarket hot air intake system factory is the only true cold air
folks stay away from k&n n use the oem paper filter
It sounds like he has a fart can on there for an exhaust. They can cause o2 issue coming to temp. More than likely the down stream.
If that's true then you should know cold O2 sensors and cats don't work properly, so the PCM runs in open loop until everything reaches a minimum operating temperature. When the PCM is in open loop data from the O2 sensors are ignored, and a special fuel mapping strategy is in place until the PCM crossed over into closed loop. If open loop operation didn't exist, you would get a check engine light every time you start your car when the motor is cold. That's also why modern O2 sensors are self heating.
low sound Kenny
Buying a ford focus st makes no sense. What, did the person not have Internet?
More like HOT AIR intake filters.
The description from auto parts store seemed very generic and even antiquated.
Code diagnostic from parts store is nice you can get the codes and look into it yourself or give them to your mechanic but don't just buy a corresponding part an bolt it on. The Successful repair rate That is low it's a free Educated guess unless you get someone at the Parts store with some repair experience. Not to be down on anyone but pretty unlikely these days. If you like you're being saved money cause mechanic charges you an hour or 2 labor but this is the problem that our tool labor is to drive it and double check they're repair that's where the money is. Ideal with this on almost the daily basis customer says it's this the guide part store says it's this I don't have the tools can you just replace it and I say No I need to do the diagnostic myself to guarantee your repair. Honestly I wish part stores would stop doing that. Unless they have technicians on staff. But you can't have those guys do that for free so you figured out
The parts stores do that to say this is what wrong oh we have the part for that I'm here I know what the problem is so I will buy the parts and go home and put them in and it will be fixed and I don't have to worry about it but come to find out it didn't fix it and I now have to find out what is wrong with this thing I'm not going back to the parts store tomorrow I'll go to another one
Vacuum leak .
👀
Autozone scans are a joke.
Merry Christmas Kenny. Blessings for your family.
Merry Christmas Kenny