2002 pj 40 ft trailer seal and bearing replacement on 10 k alko axle #howto #tandem #bearing #gooseneck #40fttrailer #hydraulic #axlebearing #axles #hub #trending #leaks
Thanks for the video.I never had the balls to do them myself.After watching you,and how you explained it like a regular person i feel pretty comfortable to do it myself.Thanks for taking the time out of your day to help others.
Make sure you get the torque specs on axle nut.. before your wheel fall off.. fyi.. be safe.. you can do it.. also your wheel seal may sit different from mine just make sure its flush and all the way in..
Hey Man, great video. Thanks for the info.. Just thought I'd add a little to it in case it may help anyone else checking your video out too.. I couldn't find a whole lot about the bearings on my particular setup on UA-cam.. I have a 2007 Take 3 Wedge Trailer Car Hauler with Dexter 10K axles and it has 2 outer nuts to lock the hub in place. In my downloaded manual it says to tighten the first nut to 100 Ft Lbs while spinning the hub so it will seat the seals and bearings. Then it says to loosen it, hand tighten it, then back it off 1/4-3/8 of a turn. Finally, it says to tighten the 2nd outer nut to 100-175 Ft Lbs making sure it doesn't move the 1st nut while you're doing it and that will keep it all in place.. Again, I appreciate your video! Stay safe out there!!
Thanks for posting. When I see a bearing in that shape I always replace the race. Manufacturers say always replace race with bearings. Also, usually there are torque specs for the castle nut. Usually tighten it way down the back off a quarter to half turn. Thanks for posting, wish I had this video before I dove into it the first time. I have a 20,000 lb big tex.
STOP,,,,,,Yall will need to remove that bearing Race, ( some call it the bearing Cup) . You can see a lip on the inside edge early in the video, (2:32) . That Race is easy to remove with a long punch, warn screwdriver, Etc. . New bearings on a used Race will not hold up. They must be replaced as set! That old bearing would last longer that a new one in a worn out Race or Cup. I appreciate Mr Ethelius taking the time to film and post a video but just be aware that $10 more bucks would have made it like new. PLUS, You don't want to be addressing this on the side of the highway with a heavy load and risk damaging the expensive hub when it happens. Been there, done that. DS
with the large nut in the center you should tighten with a large crescent wrench. while turning the hub until the hub is hard to turn, then back the nut off till both the hub is turning freely and the pin hole is visible. you might get away with doing it the way shown here but there is a chance you could have it a bit to lose and kill both your bearings and seals in short order.
10k miles is too often I suppose.. I would change every 100k but In the process of getting to 100k I stay on top of pretrip and post trip to Insure I don't have a leak.. keep in mind those are wear and tear items so alway check your equipment..
Electric only.. I did change my hydraulic over electric brakes and I will say its easlier buying the whole assembly and changing it that way and bleed the brakes when done not sure if it's a video on it or not but I dont mind walking you through it if you decide to do it yourself
Not bad,,,but (and plz correct me if I'm wrong) first of all,,is your race built in to the drum and when you put new bearings in are you not supposed to seat them in? I've always seated mine in and then I backed the castle nut off,,I'm also a hot shot owner operator
chris scott that trailer was a 10k alko . didn't have to seat the bearings. pretty much what you see in video is how i disassemble and reassemble the hub, bearing and so on. fixed my problem like that as shown in video.
like the video. do you have another video on how to check if the break away brakes working properly? i pull the e cable it doesn't seem to be working ...i replace battery too
Andres Hinojosa ok so I had an electric trailer and they are poor on brakes. the way to see if the brake work is to Jack trailer up, spin the wheels. and have someone press brake controller to see if it stops.. if it does not stop try adjusting the brakes and try again..
Thanks for the video.I never had the balls to do them myself.After watching you,and how you explained it like a regular person i feel pretty comfortable to do it myself.Thanks for taking the time out of your day to help others.
Make sure you get the torque specs on axle nut.. before your wheel fall off.. fyi.. be safe.. you can do it.. also your wheel seal may sit different from mine just make sure its flush and all the way in..
Thank you , God bless you and yours.
Hey Man, great video. Thanks for the info.. Just thought I'd add a little to it in case it may help anyone else checking your video out too.. I couldn't find a whole lot about the bearings on my particular setup on UA-cam.. I have a 2007 Take 3 Wedge Trailer Car Hauler with Dexter 10K axles and it has 2 outer nuts to lock the hub in place. In my downloaded manual it says to tighten the first nut to 100 Ft Lbs while spinning the hub so it will seat the seals and bearings. Then it says to loosen it, hand tighten it, then back it off 1/4-3/8 of a turn. Finally, it says to tighten the 2nd outer nut to 100-175 Ft Lbs making sure it doesn't move the 1st nut while you're doing it and that will keep it all in place.. Again, I appreciate your video! Stay safe out there!!
Thanks for posting. When I see a bearing in that shape I always replace the race. Manufacturers say always replace race with bearings.
Also, usually there are torque specs for the castle nut. Usually tighten it way down the back off a quarter to half turn.
Thanks for posting, wish I had this video before I dove into it the first time. I have a 20,000 lb big tex.
Thank you
THANK YOU. Great video, I've been searching for info on this and now I've got the confidence to tackle it.
Smoked the back bearing on a dextor. Thanks for the info getting both bearings tomorrow and going to put them in.
Thanks for the video
Always replace bearing race with new bearings. And there is a preload on the outer nut! Not a lot, but there is.
Nice job young man.thankyou for your video.❤
Great 👍 job keep up the good work. Nice video be safe out there and keep on rolling.
Thank you for the very helpful video .
STOP,,,,,,Yall will need to remove that bearing Race, ( some call it the bearing Cup) . You can see a lip on the inside edge early in the video, (2:32) . That Race is easy to remove with a long punch, warn screwdriver, Etc. . New bearings on a used Race will not hold up. They must be replaced as set! That old bearing would last longer that a new one in a worn out Race or Cup. I appreciate Mr Ethelius taking the time to film and post a video but just be aware that $10 more bucks would have made it like new. PLUS, You don't want to be addressing this on the side of the highway with a heavy load and risk damaging the expensive hub when it happens. Been there, done that. DS
with the large nut in the center you should tighten with a large crescent wrench. while turning the hub until the hub is hard to turn, then back the nut off till both the hub is turning freely and the pin hole is visible. you might get away with doing it the way shown here but there is a chance you could have it a bit to lose and kill both your bearings and seals in short order.
Thank you sir!!!!!
Thanks for the help.
So, how often or after how many miles do you replace bearing and race? I think my husband wait until the wheel is smoking. 😂
How often is this service required if nothing is leaking or causing any issues? We usually change the fluid every 10-12k miles.
10k miles is too often I suppose.. I would change every 100k but In the process of getting to 100k I stay on top of pretrip and post trip to Insure I don't have a leak.. keep in mind those are wear and tear items so alway check your equipment..
SMART👏
Great video! Approximately How many miles did the trailer have?
Great video. Is this trailer electric over hydraulic? It would be great to watching learn how you do a brake job on that trailer.
Electric only.. I did change my hydraulic over electric brakes and I will say its easlier buying the whole assembly and changing it that way and bleed the brakes when done not sure if it's a video on it or not but I dont mind walking you through it if you decide to do it yourself
Not bad,,,but (and plz correct me if I'm wrong) first of all,,is your race built in to the drum and when you put new bearings in are you not supposed to seat them in? I've always seated mine in and then I backed the castle nut off,,I'm also a hot shot owner operator
chris scott that trailer was a 10k alko . didn't have to seat the bearings. pretty much what you see in video is how i disassemble and reassemble the hub, bearing and so on. fixed my problem like that as shown in video.
like the video. do you have another video on how to check if the break away brakes working properly? i pull the e cable it doesn't seem to be working ...i replace battery too
Andres Hinojosa . is the trailer an electric trailer or hydrolic over electric?
Ethelius Robinson i think its just electric the brakes assembly look like yours
Andres Hinojosa ok so I had an electric trailer and they are poor on brakes. the way to see if the brake work is to Jack trailer up, spin the wheels. and have someone press brake controller to see if it stops.. if it does not stop try adjusting the brakes and try again..
Where you got the parts and you think the seal and bearings works for a big Tex 22gn 10k axle
You can go to any trailer parts store
How much gear oil do you have to put in it.
I put gear oil In them spin hub a few times then add more then spin hub.. then add till it start to come out and put cap on
@@MrEthelius thanks for replying my amigo. God bless you.
hello I have a question
what's your question.. hopefully I can give you info that will be helpful
Thank you