I'm just starting to read about hand planes and this is by far the best explanation, it's simple and understandable, it's great for someone who doesn't know anything yet like me. Thank you so much for this. It helps a lot!
Excellent presentation! I'm picking up woodworking again after a 27 year hiatus. I have been trying to figure out a few technical items, like what the difference between a high and low angle plane is. I'm also considering building my own plane(s). Best wishes!
This such an educational video. Thank you so much for takes time to explaining how it works and what is the difference between each plane. I just recently bought Stanley #63 LA plane, Stanley Block plane and Stanley #4 Jack plane. I am new to wood working and I can't wait to put them in use. I do have problem with #62 LA plane. My mother sent all these 3 planers to me for U.S. to Thailand and the #62 have 2 small dents on them at the tails end, my heart have a dents on them as well after I saw it. Please advise how can I get rid of those dents? I bought different grain of metal sand paper, but have NOT done anything with it yet. Thank you for your times and much appreciated. Have a wonderful day. Mai.
Carefully put fine grade paper on a flat piece of glass or granite and just polish scratches flat so not raised and leave it like that until your more confidant. It is very easy to introduce defects while lapping if your not 100% confidant. There's lots of videos on UA-cam about lapping planes
If these are the original models from the old Stanley, the low angle Jack in particular is of considerable value. A dent or two isn't a huge deal, you can do a lot more damage to the plane trying to take the dents out than anything. Lapping though is quite useful for flattening planes. If the dents you are talking about chip towards the bottom of the plane and scratch the wood when you plane, simply file them out. But if they are dents like pits on the sole, then plz smooth them a bit so no sharp edges show, but do not, do not, do notttt keep sanding until they are out, your planes will most likely be out of flat after that much sanding and you will have literally taken a whole layer off of the plane, potentially ruining it.
Vincent Tai First I just wanted to say thank you for information. The dents I have is at the bottom and it will make a marks on the wood. It is brand new Stanley No.62 low jack. I have it sent to me from USA to Thailand. Thank you for your suggestion. I'll give it a try. Have a wonderful day. Mai
Hi, I was told that low angled planes are good for soft woods (Pine, Spruce..) . High angled planes are designed for Hard woods (Maple, Oak, Cedar). Please comment if you have experience with hard woods. Thanks Andi
+Andre arco-strings I mostly use high angle planes, and only have a small low angle plane. Both types work equally well for all kinds of wood in my experience. The key with both is sharp blades and not to heavy of a cut, and they will do almost anything (I have even planed aluminium with both, it's hard work, but it works).
I pretty much only use a low angle plain, and have found it to work well in hard wood, soft wood, endgrain...pretty much everything I have thrown at it.
So, just to be sure, the bevel done blade is gonna cut at an angle of 45 nomatter how i sharpen it because of the 45 degree frog, correct? What about the bevel up plane? If its sharpend to a degree of 30. Does it then cut at an angle of 42 because of the (bladebed) is at an low angle of 12?
It's not really possible to use the plane properly of the chip breaker was set exactly flush to the edge of the blade, this would form a new "edge" if that makes since. Setting the chipbreaker very close to the edge prevents tear out and you can do this with a standard frog so you don't have to purchase a high angle frog. Playing with the chipbreaker can really change ones planing experience, using any plane, western, or Japanese, Stanley, or Nielsen. However you really only have to set it real close when you need to, if your planing a piece of wood nicely with the chip breakers within 3 mil of the blade edge, no need to chase it.
Jason Blanton a chip breaker Can be as far as 1/16 away from the edge. As the name suggests it should break the Chips( what malkes Them role) and malkes it possible to take very long shavings.
for example, i just bought a stanley 60 1/2 block plane. will i need one steep angle of 30 degrees or standard 25 degree primary and a 30 degree micro bevel? thanks!
the micro bevel , should you decide to use one IS the cutting angle. The rest of the blade is just out of the way. It has the advantage of only having to sharpen the very very edge when you fresh it up. If you don;lt use a micro bevel, then you have to remove material from the entire surface instead of just the very very edge.
Very informative, though it should be mentioned that not all bevel down planes adjusts the throat opening via the frog. Fixed frog bevel down planes such as Stanley Bailey's will have to adjust via the mouth like the bevel up planes. I believe it just depends on whether the frog is cast with the sole as a single piece or not, rather than whether it is bevel up or down.
Never heard of such a thing. Bailey planes adjust the frog like these bedrocks, but you have to remove the blade assembly to do so. Veritas bevel down planes planes have adjustable mouth like the bevel ups.
My thanks I've never heard anything more than "in a bevel-up plane the bevel is facing up and in a bevel-down plane it faces down" which doesn't give me much reason to run out and buy a low angle plane. I think I'll get a cheap one to play with and see if I want to invest in a good one.
English? Al parecer es mejor el low angle. Mas facil de ajustar, no se atoran las rebabas de madera entre la navaja y el soporte. Sólo que son más caritos...
Novice me, thinking about getting into wood working: "De de deleededede, better buy a hand plane I gue.....WTF THEY COST HOW MUCH!!??" *faints and is removed from store by security.
I'm just starting to read about hand planes and this is by far the best explanation, it's simple and understandable, it's great for someone who doesn't know anything yet like me. Thank you so much for this. It helps a lot!
My left ear enjoyed this video
+gmdille My right ear was surprised to hear the music at the end.
+gmdille And I enjoyed a great laugh, while reading this. Thank you.
I thought my headphones were not working. I moved all the cable between my fingers to find the broken part...
Put your phone to mono. Unless you have multiple "5" drivers, you're missing alot. Mono is king.
simply said THANK YOU for clear comparison
Excellent presentation! I'm picking up woodworking again after a 27 year hiatus. I have been trying to figure out a few technical items, like what the difference between a high and low angle plane is. I'm also considering building my own plane(s). Best wishes!
Excelent discription of the differences. Well done. Thank you
Thanks for educational video. I never knew that my high angle jack plane could be adjusted by purposely moving the frog. Cheers.
This such an educational video. Thank you so much for takes time to explaining how it works and what is the difference between each plane. I just recently bought Stanley #63 LA plane, Stanley Block plane and Stanley #4 Jack plane. I am new to wood working and I can't wait to put them in use. I do have problem with #62 LA plane. My mother sent all these 3 planers to me for U.S. to Thailand and the #62 have 2 small dents on them at the tails end, my heart have a dents on them as well after I saw it. Please advise how can I get rid of those dents? I bought different grain of metal sand paper, but have NOT done anything with it yet. Thank you for your times and much appreciated. Have a wonderful day. Mai.
Carefully put fine grade paper on a flat piece of glass or granite and just polish scratches flat so not raised and leave it like that until your more confidant. It is very easy to introduce defects while lapping if your not 100% confidant. There's lots of videos on UA-cam about lapping planes
Adam Lynch Thanks Adam. I will try that. Have a great day.
If these are the original models from the old Stanley, the low angle Jack in particular is of considerable value. A dent or two isn't a huge deal, you can do a lot more damage to the plane trying to take the dents out than anything. Lapping though is quite useful for flattening planes. If the dents you are talking about chip towards the bottom of the plane and scratch the wood when you plane, simply file them out. But if they are dents like pits on the sole, then plz smooth them a bit so no sharp edges show, but do not, do not, do notttt keep sanding until they are out, your planes will most likely be out of flat after that much sanding and you will have literally taken a whole layer off of the plane, potentially ruining it.
Vincent Tai First I just wanted to say thank you for information. The dents I have is at the bottom and it will make a marks on the wood. It is brand new Stanley No.62 low jack. I have it sent to me from USA to Thailand. Thank you for your suggestion. I'll give it a try. Have a wonderful day. Mai
Hi, I was told that low angled planes are good for soft woods (Pine, Spruce..) .
High angled planes are designed for Hard woods (Maple, Oak, Cedar). Please comment if you have experience with hard woods. Thanks Andi
+Andre arco-strings I mostly use high angle planes, and only have a small low angle plane. Both types work equally well for all kinds of wood in my experience. The key with both is sharp blades and not to heavy of a cut, and they will do almost anything (I have even planed aluminium with both, it's hard work, but it works).
I pretty much only use a low angle plain, and have found it to work well in hard wood, soft wood, endgrain...pretty much everything I have thrown at it.
So, just to be sure, the bevel done blade is gonna cut at an angle of 45 nomatter how i sharpen it because of the 45 degree frog, correct?
What about the bevel up plane? If its sharpend to a degree of 30. Does it then cut at an angle of 42 because of the (bladebed) is at an low angle of 12?
That cleared up a lot of questions for me. Thanks
Thank you, big help!
Nicely done video Really a big help to me
Excuse me, where did you buy the largest handplane, please?
+SYLVESTRIVS they are both lie nielsen hand planes, so the lie nielsen website
What is the 'rule' for setting the chip breaker. Does it sit flush to the edge of the blade or a little bit above the edge.
Jason Blanton the chip breaker should sit as close to the edge as possible, but not flush. Very close. 1/64" or even closer if you can reliably do so.
It's not really possible to use the plane properly of the chip breaker was set exactly flush to the edge of the blade, this would form a new "edge" if that makes since. Setting the chipbreaker very close to the edge prevents tear out and you can do this with a standard frog so you don't have to purchase a high angle frog. Playing with the chipbreaker can really change ones planing experience, using any plane, western, or Japanese, Stanley, or Nielsen. However you really only have to set it real close when you need to, if your planing a piece of wood nicely with the chip breakers within 3 mil of the blade edge, no need to chase it.
Jason Blanton a chip breaker Can be as far as 1/16 away from the edge. As the name suggests it should break the Chips( what malkes Them role) and malkes it possible to take very long shavings.
Excellent!
Excellent
for example, i just bought a stanley 60 1/2 block plane. will i need one steep angle of 30 degrees or standard 25 degree primary and a 30 degree micro bevel?
thanks!
the micro bevel , should you decide to use one IS the cutting angle. The rest of the blade is just out of the way. It has the advantage of only having to sharpen the very very edge when you fresh it up. If you don;lt use a micro bevel, then you have to remove material from the entire surface instead of just the very very edge.
michael barnes got it...thank you!
Thanks a lot. It really helped.
Very informative, though it should be mentioned that not all bevel down planes adjusts the throat opening via the frog. Fixed frog bevel down planes such as Stanley Bailey's will have to adjust via the mouth like the bevel up planes. I believe it just depends on whether the frog is cast with the sole as a single piece or not, rather than whether it is bevel up or down.
Never heard of such a thing. Bailey planes adjust the frog like these bedrocks, but you have to remove the blade assembly to do so. Veritas bevel down planes planes have adjustable mouth like the bevel ups.
My thanks I've never heard anything more than "in a bevel-up plane the bevel is facing up and in a bevel-down plane it faces down" which doesn't give me much reason to run out and buy a low angle plane. I think I'll get a cheap one to play with and see if I want to invest in a good one.
HI I DO NOT SPEAK SPANISH. I WANT TO KNOW WHAT IS BETTER, LOW ANGLE OR HIGH ANGLE, THANK YOU
English? Al parecer es mejor el low angle. Mas facil de ajustar, no se atoran las rebabas de madera entre la navaja y el soporte. Sólo que son más caritos...
Novice me, thinking about getting into wood working:
"De de deleededede, better buy a hand plane I gue.....WTF THEY COST HOW MUCH!!??"
*faints and is removed from store by security.
Running that finger along the blade edge made me cringe but otherwise this was a very helpful video.
6:42 High Angle to prevent tearout, Low Angle for softwood and endgrain.