Macro Photography Lighting - Flash Diffusor Test and Review 2022 - How Good is the "Pope Shield"?
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- Macro photography lighting. Wolf Amri tests the Pope Shield flash diffusor with image samples and light metering.
Have you ever thought about improving your macro shots with the help of a flash? If yes, you surely found out that it's not all that easy to get good photographs. The pope shield flash diffusor promises to change that. But how good is it really? In this test/review we take a very detailed look.
0:00 Intro
0:29 Why available light can be a problem in macro photography
0:46 Using a speed light for macro photography
1:11 The Pope Shield flash diffusor
2:32 available light macro images
3:02 The exposure triangle - flash helps raise scene brightness
4:15 Finding a subject for the macro diffusor test
5:19 Test setup
5:54 Result with the bare speed light
5:59 Adding the pope shield flash diffusor
6:20 Metering the macro flash diffusor and compare it to speed light only
6:57 Pope Shield example shots
7:05 Pope Shield flash diffusor options
9:35 Using the flash diffusor for flower photography
Links to products used in this video:
www.popeshield.com
Ringflash used: GODOX ML-150 (unfortunately not available at the moment)
Raynox DCR-250 Macro Lens: amzn.to/3EELlCJ
Nisi macro rail: amzn.to/3lA3Roi
Sony a7III: amzn.to/3Ii3N6f
Sony 90mm f/2.8 macro: amzn.to/3rBTGTF
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I’m glad you’re back! I recently discovered your channel and was impressed by your combination of technical knowledge, teaching skills and humour.
Awww, thanks. I‘m surprised that someone would call this humor 😉😂
@@wolfamri Hi Amri, can I ask you? is it possible and effective to use Raynox 250 to the lense tamron 18-300mm for sony apsc zv-e10? btw the reason I bought this lense because its minimum object distance is so close that has magnification ratio 1:2 in 18mm and 1:4 in 300mm. I hope Raynox can add magnification to my lense. I also plan to use one godox v860 iii for lighting.
@@smileofdean yes, the 67mm filter of the tamron is the largest diameter it would fit. You might get a bit of vignetting. And yes, it would definitely add a lot of magnification by letting you go closer. Most important imo when working with flash is a macro diffuser. It will lift the quality of your shots to the power of 3 😉. If you don’t know what diffusers are, check out my macro diffuser video 😉. Enjoy Macro. You’ll love it!
@@wolfamri Regarding the vignetting, can it be fixed in post editing? I usually use affinity photo for developing RAW. I’m gonna explore your videos as you said.
You would have to crop. But you may want t crop anyway, so it might not be an issue 😉
Glad to see you again Wolf! One of the most engaging photography teachers on UA-cam!
Thanks so much, Greg. I wish I would find even more time.
Glad you’re back with the videos, keep up the great work
Thanks so much, Mike 🤗🤗
As usual,so much fun to listen to your class ❤️👍👍
Thank you so much, Kesava! Good to read such feedback. 🙏🤗🙏
Glad to see you're back :)
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
And good to see you back 😊
Glad to see your back I miss your videos
Thank you, Chris 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for this. Ordered immediately!
Thanks for your feedback, Robert. You'll love it!
I had always passively wondered how photographers make their macro shots look so interesting but never took the steps to learn how they do it. This was very informative and I feel inspired to try out some macro photography next spring. Thank you for putting this video together!
Thanks for your feedback! It really makes a lot of difference and in fact makes macro photography easier too 😉
You can check out their website www.popeshield.com
Fiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnalllly a Video again 😍
Awwww, thanks, Dad 🤗
God! You just read my mind. I am currently struggling with that exact topic . Thanks alot 🤩
🤣 oh reading minds would make things much easier. Thanks, Sofiane. I hope it is helpful! Let me know if you have questions.
A comment just to repeat what others say: we missed you! 😊
Thanks so much, Paul 🤗🙏🤗
Respected Sir
Aa usual best tutorial..
Thank you, Dipak 🙏🙏
Really long time no see! Welcome back!
Thanks so much, Ihab. Great that you are still here 🤗
The difference on your "noise" example with/without flash is amazing.. so much more detail.
Thank you! Yes, flash lifts your macro shots a few levels😉
Great information. Liked, subbed, and added to my favs. 👍
Thank you, much appreciated 🙏🙏
Very good. Thanks :)👏👏👍
Thanks, Mehmet 🙏🙏
Awesome!!!
Thank you, Yanni! 🙏🤗
Wonderful videos
Thank you 🙏🙏
He is back!!! Looking for our macro battle
Hey Jens! Thanks, let's bring it on 😆.
I feel sold for this! Take my money!
😂 you’ll love it.
Great channel 👍 🔥 🔥 🔥
Thank you 🙏🙏
Buying one now.😍
You'll love it ;)
🙏🙏🙏 Subscribed (Colorado)
Thank you so much, Jules 🙏🤗. Focus stacking video coming up, so I hope you didn’t forget to set the notification bell 😉.
Thankyou
Thank YOU 😉
Just find your Chanel during my search about the popshield product.
Thanks for this great informative quality video!
I looking to add a Sony HVL-FR46RM with popshield configuration but I wandering what is more reliable options between standar popshield and Opal Foam composit version whit this speedlight...
Hey there. I’d get the Opal foam composite. Reliable are all of them, but this one gives the best light output vs softness imo 😉
Great 👍
Thank you 🙏🙏
@@wolfamri Your Welcome
Love it! How you put yourself in front of picture like that for video?
Thank you 🙏🙏. The technique is called green screen and my last four videos explain everything you need to know to get great results in this regard 😉
Wow! Great picture and video explication. Please one question, ho you buy your Flash diffusor?
Very interesting with magnet system I finding.. Many thanks.. and greetings..
Hi Cesare. Not sure if I understand your question. Yes, the magnetic version is very convenient to use. You can get it in the webshop on the popeshield website 😉.
Thank you so much for your information. Ive done some macro photography but I haven't done anything for over 3 years so I am very rusty. Getting back to it as we speak. Once again thank you. Cant find a link to purchase this diffuser set up. Ill keep looking for it. I like the magnet set up
Thank you for your feedback, Charlie. You’ll love it. Just go to popeshield.com 😉.
In my experimentation, I took a canon flash and connected it to hotshoe cable and camera for TTL. I put a Velcro on defuser on the front of the flash and hand had the camera and flash, though tiring, I found it easy for run and gun to get from place to place and set up quickly. Next I tried my Godox Ad200, connected the defuser to the flash head for wireless which was easier to position the flash around the front of the lens. I also tried a bulb head using a reflector with grid to darken background when side lighting. I have always been told that on camera flash is bad and produces paparazzi effect and that side light was better for detail. I have been using this for flowers. I have yet to shoot insects but was considering this combination. Have you ever shot with off camera flash with defuser/reflector-grid?
Thanks, Rich. I did use a similar thing before. An Elinchrom ELB400 handheld with the regular reflector and diffusor in front next to the camera. Worked OK, but as you say rather tiring. For subjects that don’t move I even used it with a small softbox. I’ll post a macro tools comparison video on Sunday, where I used that to photograph a crab spider. So yes, it works. The beauty of the pope shield really is, that it’s such a no-brainer. It just works without even caring for the flash settings if you set the speedlight to TTL. And it’s so convenient. It’s still very different to regular on camera flash because it distributes the light so well, a bit like a beauty dish.
Thank you for another great video, I love the name of this diffuser. Have you ever tried other types of diffusers, like the box ones that go over the flash itself? And on my travels I discovered some NSI Zoom lens attachments, similar to the Raynox conversion lens, do you have any experience with those? Onto the next video. :D
Hey Jon! Thanks again 🙏😉. I've worked with lots of different options. The pope shield really worked best in comparison. The box ones lack diffusion area and the distance isn't perfect either. Lately I'm using the pope shield with Godox MF-12s.
Jens from another perspective uses both the NISI and the raynox. I was initially torn, but the clip-on function made me decide on the Raynox over the NISI.
@@wolfamri Thank you once again for all of the replies lately, it is appreciated. I just picked up an AF-P 70-300 for my D7100, which works, just no turning VR off, and am now torn between the Raynox and the NISI as my next addition to the collection. The pope shield seems a no brainer though, mainly due to its name. I can't wait to be out and about using it and someone asks what it is...well it's my Pope Shield! :D Thank you once more!
😂👌👌 you‘ll love it. Be aware though, that they lately seem to have quite a delivery time.
Great helpful video. I just sub'd. What do you think of the MF12 set up v. using a speed light for outdoor macro stuff - insects and flowers mostly? My first impression is that the MF12 adds a lot of complex plastic parts to the situation and unless the results are superior to using a diffused speed light I'm not inclined to add the complexity. I have in mind that with either solution there will be times that I will likely use an off camera flash together with the speedlight/MF12. My closest magnification will likely be 2:1.
Thank you, Robert 🙏. I almost purchased the MF12. But then I saw a review that actually assured my doubts about the light characteristics. I prefer soft light and the MF12 without any additional diffusion won’t give me that. I’m waiting for someone to create a real macro flash solution. But for the time being, I‘ll stick to flash diffusers.
@@wolfamriThere are some folks on the tubes who have devised DIY diffusion for the MF12. Still - it all seems unduly fussy to me. I am just getting back into photography, and macro photography and about to retire. I'll want a speedlight anyway, so for the time being I think I'll just get a godox speedlight and a diffusor to stick on there - mabybe the pope. Keep it simple. If the MF12 turns out to be durable, and if the simple speedlight solution does not meet my needs, I might pick one up down the road. Again - thanks for your videos.
Insect macro is my main photography focus, and after watching Lighting 101 (etc) I bought a Godox speedflash and a mini-softbox style diffuser, and it has made a world of difference in my shots. I don't really like these ones that wrap around the lens, though. They leave black lens-shaped circles in the insect eyes. Sometimes that looks cute, but for the most part, seeing the equipment in the shot is undesirable to me. If they made one that sat on top of the lens I'd have bought it, because the rigid front would be better than what I'm using.
Thanks for your feedback. It really depends on your needs. For jumping spiders, you are surely right because they don't have the same kind of eyes like e.g. wasps or flies. Did you think about retouching the black hole of the lens?
Hello Wolf, I just discovered your channel and love your insect photos in this video.. I am not new to photography but very new to macro and I'm wondering what lens and Raynox lens are you using? I have an R5 and a 100mm F2.8 lens and want to challenge myself and start with insect and plant macro photography. Any tips would be gratefully appreciated. Cheers from Canada.
Hey Mike! Thank you. I use the Laowa 25mm 2.5-5x. Much more important though is the light. Better shoot 1x magnificent with fantastic light, than a bigger magnification and bad light. Either way, enjoy your new passion. It is so much fun 😉.
Thank you so much Wolf I really appreciate your answer and I very much look forward to this genre of photography...Subscribed :)
And I appreciate your subscription, Mike. Keep shooting ;).
Sir, do me a big favour ... Make a iris shoot with this opal diffuser! - I think it will going to be amazing beutiful.
And again, thank you for so great a value able videos! I have really learned a thing or two doing to your awesome way to teach us.
Thanks so much, Per. I‘m afraid that wouldn’t work because of the round shape of the eyeball. It catches so many reflections, that you have to light it from the side. Did you have a look at my iris video?
Nice diffusor. I have been using the Magmod diffuser for years with great results. It attaches to your flash.
Thanks for the tip! The Magmod is nice for regular use, but for Macro it doesn't increase the size of the light relative to the subjects size/distance - hence creates a much harder light than dedicated macro diffusors. But you can also create a DIY to test that out and include the Magmod.
@@wolfamri
It looks like the popeshield is not available for the US.
That’s weird. They must have changed that. It doesn’t say so in the shipping info. Perhaps drop them a note and ask.
@@wolfamri
My mistake, they do ship to the US.
@@wolfamri My only concern with this diffuser is that it will touch the foliage surrounding the subject, or even getting in the way of getting closer to the subject. I have tried numerous diffusers, and the magmod is the only one that does a great job without worrying about being able to get close to the subject or the diffuser hitting anything in the way between you and the subject "plus you can keep an eye on the subject without it being covered up by the diffuser", since it attaches to the camera flash via magnets, it spreads a nice soft light, which is what you want. The popeshield seems to be nice if you are doing studio macro photography.
Very interesting video. I have a question; for tamron 90 macro wich roof is good, normal or short? Thank you.
Hi Francesco. I'm afraid I don't quite know. I only have the normal roof and it works really well. Sometimes with my new Olympus 2x macro it does get in the way lately, but the tamron is 1:1, so it should be very fine. It of course always depends on what you are shooting. But the light diffusion is way worth it.
Just a note: be aware that they have some delivery time lately due to high demand. 😉
@@wolfamri thanks for your fast reply. I just solved the problem by looking closely at the pope shield site. I ordered the magnetic model and the regular roof. Thanks anyway.
Do you have an issue with the working distance when using the Sony 90mm macro & Raynox 250 while using the pope shield? I'm having quite a bit of trouble getting used to the limitations.
It always depends on the subject I'm shooting. With the Raynox, I do sometimes touch branches, etc.. But lighting is so important for my taste that I hardly ever shoot without the diffusion. I also regularly use the Godox MF-12. But that has a similar issue (and is not really compatible with the Raynox at all. So it's all relative 😬.
Great review. I purchased my Popeshield a few months ago and have used it with both my Canon 180mm macro and MP-E65 and it’s produced great results. I have the pro kit which includes the roof. My only negative is that the design of some lenses like the MP-E 65 have an extendable barrel and it makes using the diffuser a bit annoying if/when switching magnification. If you are shooting fixed it’s not that big of a deal as the adjustments for focus are much smaller. On average I think the build is more suited for a 100mm-ish macro as my 180mm is almost to long. Full transparency I am shooting with an R5 so these EF lenses are adapted and a bit longer because of the RF to EF converter.
Thanks for your feedback, Jeremy 🙏. Did you try other lighting options?
@@wolfamri I did try one of the off brand inexpensive Velcro soft boxes that affixes to the flash head - like you might see a wedding or event photographer use. It was OK-ish but did not achieve the same results/quality of the Popeshield. Recently bought the Godox MF-12 twin flash setup though and am struggling to get better diffusion with those. Unfortunately the Popeshield does not help with this but I might sacrifice one of the diffusers (I bought 3) to see if I can improve diffusion with them as well.
Thanks! Funnily I won an mf-12 on godox youtube channel giveaway. I assume it takes more than two of them to get great results and/or a solution to mount it further back which is quite challenging.
@@wolfamri they are not bad out of the box with the stock diffusers but there are some specular highlights seen in reflective surfaces. I saw someone use heavy tracing paper as a secondary diffusion layer. I just wanted something more durable since my preference is to shoot in the field. You’ll like the MF12’s as it’s fun to set them up remotely which give a different look to your subjects. I think the ideal number of MF-12’s is going to be 3-4 but I have not purchased an additional unit(s) yet.
There’s definitely some potential in macro lighting for the future. I could see a similar product like the pope shield, but with a wider area left and right of the lens and directing much of the light there.
Awesome. I just sent them an email. So many options…and I am still new to this. Confused me. :)
Sony A7IV, Sony 90mm, Godox V1. And, I also picked up the Godox Macro ring w/ 4 flashes. Sure I will use it for something. I am about to take a few days off work and crawl through the woods and backyard. Anything worth doing is worth overdoing. I will regret about 30% of my purchases…but, so much cool stuff to learn and test.
😂😂😂 @ overdoing. I’ve been thinking about the ring. I even won one of them on godox youtube channel. That was almost my setup with the exception that the IV didn’t exist when I did the shooting. You should get great results 😉
oh, and thanks 😉
I have the Godox twin flash for macro.. will the magnetic Pope work with that system?
Hi Laura! I’m afraid I don’t think it will work, there won’t be enough space. But you can ask pope shield a question, they reply pretty quick 😉.
In which conditions do you use the roof and in which you choose to do without?
I use the roof very often, because it reduces the amount of flash power that I have to use. That again reduces recycling time 😉. So unless I'm lazy, I use the roof 😂. Very rarely the roof gets in my way (e.g. when shooting under our fig tree).
Amazing video!!! not only did i end up knowing about these amazing diffusor but also you helped me make my mind and i have now decided to go for the V1 (i was thinking about the Godox V350)
Thank you! What camera/lens do you use? I’m planning a speedlight comparison for macro photography, having used the V1, TT685II, V860III, V350 and MF12 😉
@@wolfamri well, I'm totally a newbie here with my first camera ever so please keep that in mind. I have a Sony A7C and besides the kit lens I have a Sony 55mm 1.8 and a LAOWA 100mm F2.8 up to 2x magnification macro lens.
I had originally bought on Amazon a Sony 90mm 2.8 + Raynox to reach 2x totalling 1,450 CAD and ended up returning them to buy the 2nd hand Laowa lens 2x for 350 CAD.
Thnx for te reply
@chilodaone We’re all newbies 😉. I just started dabbling into deep sky astro photography, and I’m once again a total noob 😂.
I’d recommend going with the V860III in your case. Almost the same, but a bit more versatile IMO and slightly cheaper. A diffuser is a must have for beautiful macros. Pope shield has delivery issues. Consider the new version of the AK diffuser. That’s a bit more expensive, but smaller to collapse 😉.
hi thank, work with flash Godox tt685s you think? thank
Hi. Absolutely! I just got the II version to fo a test, so yes 😉.
How is the flash diffuser without the roof? And is the roof bought seperatly?
The diffuser is the same, William. The Flash is just one stop less powerful in my experience. That also means that you get faster recycle times in case you don’t use full power. And yes, you can buy it separately.
does the pope shield fit in front of the godox mf12 twin flash
Hi Stuart, they have a rather new version that does. I haven’t tried it yet though 😉.
I ordered a popeshield but 4 months later, I was still waiting for it. And there was no reaction from popeshield to my e-mails unfortunately.
Very sorry to hear that. I know they have waiting times due to high demand, but that shouldn’t happen. If you want I can ask. What name did you order with? If you want you can also send me your email you ordered with (not here, but perhaps on instagram if you use instagram).
Hello! Has your diffuser arrived since then?
having a 72 or 77mm lens, how can I adapt the raynox 250 to it?
You mean to the lens alone, or the lens with pope shield?
Ist der Verschreiber beabsichtig? Oder sollte es doch Popeshield - also ohne L - heißen?
Hi Thomas. Danke für's Feedback. Wo genau hast Du das gefunden? das "L" gehört natürlich dazu! 😬
How about getting diffuser on the flash itself?
What counts is the relative size of the light source. The closer that is to the subject, the bigger and therefore softer the light will be. A diffuser on the flash itself isn’t as big and also not as close 😉.
The popeshield employees are extremely busy, I suppose, because I ordered a diffusor last 27 july and I have not received anything yet and no answer to my mail sent 4 days ago!! Should I be worried?
Sorry to hear that, Francesco. I lately spoke to them. They have quite a backlog due to their success and since much of it is handcrafted, it is difficult to catch up. You don’t need to be worried, but it’s not nice from them to let you wait either 😢
Hello! Has your diffuser arrived since then?
Can you share the Diffuser link
Hi! Here is the link to their website popeshield.com
Depth of focus refers to sensor distance from rear element of your lens
That's theoretically correct, Mike. But depth of field is traditionally used totally wrong in photography. You can never change the depth of field. All you can change is the depth of focus.
So the correct term when talking about images and photography is depth of focus.
I don't know what the difference between a diffuser and a roof is, and I don't know which flash is on my 90D.
The diffusor is the white part in front and the roof goes on top to bounce the light back into the diffusor rather than let it “escape”.
Your 90D has a built-in flash that is quite a bit weaker, but you can always add a bigger one using your hot shoe.
i just use galvanized steel wire and printer paper to make a 25c flash diffuser I have compared images from several flash diffusers and find that this method is virtually indistinguishable from, and sometimes even better than, commercially available ones!! I also use a Pringles single serve container with my little Olympus FL-LM3, again hard to tell the difference!
Obviously there are advantages to commercially available ones like durability, but since it is so cheap to diy one why not give it a try if you are new to macro
Definitely worth a try. I have that pringles diffusor on my list. The can is already eaten 😂.
I have use a napkin or a white piece of paper to do a quick improvised diffuser when I need one XD
Where i can buy this diffuser?
you can get it at popeshield.com
Love macro, hate the fooling around with flash (and how dump it looks walking around with diffuser, flashes mounted on lens etc.).
Low key macro can be good, but zero wind and have to carry around a tripod.
We didn't pick the easiest genre of photography did we!?!?
Great vids.
😂 I’m the same except that I look dumb no matter if I carry a diffusor or not 😂. I’m currently in Croatia shooting landscapes with a kayak. And two days ago I saw a big jumping spider on one of the beaches we visited. We plan to go back with Macro lens and the pope shield today 😂
@@wolfamri Oooo, have fun in Croatia, you'll certainly have some great landscapes to choose from! Take care.
Your knowledge sharing gives you +1000 karma, you don't look dumb! ;-)
You can always try using the built in camera flash, have been working with it for years because of the lack of a better flash and has been fantastic
Andres, fantastic is always a question of taste. Personally I love the soft light that a diffuser gives me, much like a soft box does for a portrait. A small light source will give you a totally different look.
4:54 So we let them bee :p
😂👍
I think you meant to say ‘depth of field’ when you said depth of focus. There is an optical difference in practical applications, readers may like check this out to avoid any confusion re the terminology.
Thank you for the feedback, Shevill. But no, unless you are talking about measurements, depth of focus is just the result of depth of field and in photography, we are all about results. Beside that, I feel the term is much more logical because it describes what it is, the depth of focus. In most languages there is no such thing as depth of field. It‘s depth of focus in the field vs depth of focus on the sensor plane. Both are dependent on each other and since nobody would want to talk about the depth of focus on the sensor plane, it is clear that with depth of focus you just mean the depth of focus in the field 😉.
@@wolfamri Thanks for your comments. As I recall from my uni physics days, and optical imaging with macro equipment, and photomicrography using optical microscopes, below is a simple explanation, it is a question I have been so aften asked during my scientific photography days. I guess some confussion occurs because the abreviations are the same!
What is the difference between Depth of Focus (DoF and Depth of Field (DoF)
The key difference between Depth of Focus and Depth of Field is that the former refers to the range of focus behind the camera lens. Depth of Field refers to the range of focus in front of the camera lens. Lots of diagrams online to illustrate what is meant by the terms, will help if readers are confused. As an interesting point, just to add to the terminology, many folks often use the term micro-photography, when in fact it means making large objects smaller, i.e landscape photography, a huge landscape is condensed to the size of the film format, 35mm for example. Photographing an A4 page document and making it as small as a dot. is also micro-photography. Easy to see how terminology can be confusing or used incorrectly. Happy photography, whatever branch interests you, there is a fascinating miniature world out there.
Thanks for the additional info, Shevill. But isn't that exactly what I said in my reply, just with different words? Depth of focus is the depth of focus on the sensor plane (which is behind the lens). It's directly related to the depth of field. Change the depth of field, and the depth of focus will change relative to the changes you made in the field.
Photography is about the image that the light draws onto our sensor plane, so our goal is not the depth in the field, but the depth on our image taking plane - which is the sensor plane.
If I would give definitive measures like 1mm, I would indeed have to address the difference. But if I'm talking about the depth of the area that is in focus on my image, I'm talking about depth of focus. I hope that makes sense.
Since you have been into photography science, I'm always happy about a good discussion. If you find time and you would enjoy doing it, would you mind having a look at my new website exposure-triangle.com? I have tried to create a page with lots of info for everything related to exposure starting at beginner level and if you continue reading on every page, you will get to the more advanced areas. Since I want to make this the best possible source, I'd be happy to get some input from someone involved in photography science.
Thanks again!
Ok... I noticed that you "eliminate" ISO from the Exposure triangle. I have always argued that ISO has nothing to do with exposure in the sense that it has no effect on the amount of light the sensor is "exposed" to. The Exposure triangle should be more like an inverted "V" than a triangle with the ISO part deleted. I then took the next 45 minutes trying to explain it to my wife. I think she eventually gave up rather than understanding what I was saying (due to my inability to explain it -I am sure). Not sure if you agree with me the ISO is NOT part of the exposure but if you do can you do a video explaining it? If you think it is part of the exposure, then tell me to shut up LOL....
💯%, Pedro. I‘m planning videos in this regard for a very long time. I have just published a new website to explain that issue. Believe it or not, I called it exposure-triangle.com 😂 hoping that people who search for the triangle will find it and learn the truth 😬.
From my understanding, ISO is applied to the image during the conversion from an analog signal to a digital signal which takes place after the photo has been taken. I could be wrong on when it happens but I did know it happens after the photo is taken. Back in the film days the ISO was in the film you used. You had to plan ahead on what the lighting situation would be before you loaded the film. And since you couldn't change your ISO right in the middle of a roll if film, the exposure was left up to the shutter speed and aperture settings. That has not changed just because we're in the digital age. I set the shutter speed and aperture to what I need and then set the ISO I need.
Exactly. In digital age, ISO is nothing more than the gain.
@@wolfamri where can i buy a pope shield in the US? I've looked and can't find a store that has them.
I don’t think they have a vendor. But they ship worldwide from Europe. I think they have a bit of a wait at the moment though because of high demand.
It's depth of field,not depth of focus.Depth of focus is the distance from sensor to rear lens element
Mike, theoretically it’s the depth of the area in focus on the sensor plane. Since the sensor plane is our target and 100% related to the depth in the field that is directly accountable to the depth of focus, both are equally correct as long as you don’t talk about specific distances. However, since beginners understand depth of focus much better than depth of field because it is more logical, I tend to use that term instead 😉.
Simply put, depth of field, is the plane of in focus theoritaclly ,in front of the lens .Wheras depth of focus is behind the lens which is the axial point at which the image forming light is in focus at the plane of the sensor or film if you will .But lets keep this our secret .😉😉
So, where is the difference to my explanation? 😉
@@wolfamriNot to go on and on here ,If i am referenceing depth of field to my class this refers to the area of acceptable in focus area in front of a lens at a given apeture .and usually is calculated in meters ,cm and mm. ,wheras depth of focus is calculated in millimeters or micro mm. anyway i repair lenses and am a bit of a geek so lets wave a white flag on this one and enjoy the wonderful world of maco photography .
Let’s do that and let’s work together on making photography less complicated for beginners 😉. Particularly in the English language photography is made way more complicated than it has to be.
Why do macro photo on a wasp? Seriously, it had stung you after taking the picture. I've been stung by wasps 3 times (one in a corn maze by runing by it, I helped a wasp getting unstuck and one got stuck in my pant's fold and when I got it free, it stung me). Courageous of you to take wasps in macro photo.
Thank you 😅. We have a lot of wasp nests in our garden. Mostly it's the European Paper Wasp - a non-aggressive type of wasps. They would only stung you if you get very close to their nest in a hurry. It happened twice in 6 years because one of their nest is in an old shoe and I passed it running past, so I deserved it 🤣. They will eat mosquitos, won't get to your table to eat your food and even keep the other more aggressive type away, which is VERY convenient.
We try to educate all our neighbours in this regard because they are really useful.
It was super nice of you to free the wasp. It can happen, but as long as you are not allergic, it's not a big deal. It hurts more to pull out nose hair 🤣.
The one on the title image is one of the meaner wasps though. But still - if you don't move quick they won't hurt you.
Same with Hornets: I freaked out when I first saw them in our garden (no nest though). Then I did some reading and they are totally calm. I even touched one incidentally once when harvesting grapes and it didn't care at all.
@@wolfamri I'm not allergic to wasps but while running in the maze, a girl that was there was very allergic to wasps and didn't even have her epipen on her. I saved her life by being stung. I did notice a bunch if mud wasps in Canada for a couple of years now and I haven't been styng by them, but they look very scary. Mud wasps have a longer body type and I've seen a black and yellow one and the blue metallic one so far. I'm not willing to test their agressivity levels in anyway.
To me it's their habit of keeping the more aggressive type away that is the big plus. Many people in our surrounding can't even eat relaxed outside because they have the common wasp that will constantly try to eat their food and get into their drinks. We don't have that at all.
The only thing we need to do is share a few fruits from our trees and bushes with them. They are quite hungry in this regard 🤣.
I just two days ago had one sitting on my naked arm to warm her body in the sun. I have to admit it wasn't the greatest feeling and I didn't quite know what to do. But I thought if I'll go into the shade with her she might try to find another place. Did it and off she went.
@@wolfamri That's awesome. Though, people will mistake bees and wasps. Though, mud wasps haven't gotten into my food at all. Bees are my favorites since they don't bother you at all and prefer to not attack you for no reasons.
Depth of field not depth of focus
Please have a look at my previous reply, Mike. I'm working hard on eliminating that misconception in photography that is quite confusing, particularly for beginners.
7:32 EAR WARNING ⚠️!
Is it really that loud? I have that snippet code on almost all of my videos, but I never had any complaints in this regard. I had complaints on other things, so I wonder.
@@wolfamriYou should be able to see the differences of volume in the video editing software of your choice. Differences in volume are not that subjective😅
Old school. Get the flash off the camera or your subject looks flat....as proven here.
Each to their own, Bradd. I’ve used three studio flashes with large softboxes for bees in lavender and for a spider shot in the studio in one of my other videos. I’ve also used 3 Godox MF12 set to different ratios. Of course it gives you more options, but for regular macro photography, it’s not really practical, except for the Godox.