Budget Harley-Davidson Can Still Party (5 Ways to Stay under Budget)
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2024
- Budget Harley-Davidson performance does exist, it's not cheap but it's cheaper and there's 5 ways to stay on budget. The biggest bang for the buck in Harley-Davidson performance quickly becomes not budget Harley-Davidson when we get into the while we are here. It's always best to do everything up front but budgets these days just don't allow for it. What we can do is go without a lot of things that would be great to do while we are there and just go with what we need to do. Now while there are some budget Harley-Davidson savings, there are a few things we absolutely must do!
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Motorcycle: 2016 Harley-Davidson Sportster XL1200CP (Sportster 1200 Custom)
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What tricks have you done doing engine work and power upgrades on your Harley-Davidson? How did it go, was it great or a disaster?
That is one of my questions. Do you actually work on bikes? I have been a long time subscriber and haven’t seen you work on any bike. I’ve only seen photos.
Took care of the compensator, and I would really like your advice on stage 1 and 2 on my 2017 FLSTC,
I hav all S & S parts bhind cam cover along wit the woods tw555 cams and a Thundermax Autotuner and a baker compensator n manuel primary chain adjuster and rekluse torque drive clutchs.... my 2013 dyna fat bob 103 is a whole new and extremely fun fast animal. Most parts suggested by you gixxerfoo. Thx
I bought sport bikes so I didn't need to rebuild the entire bike to have any kind of performance. Harley's are slow trash bikes
I have done "engine work" on my 1984 Softail. I replaced the stock carburetor with an S&S Shorty E. I was actually shocked at the increase in performance with just that change. Once the electronic ignition failed in 1992, I converted to points ignition and again I was surprised at the increase in performance. Not in speed or power, but it ease of starting and the sound. An Evo with points will mimic the sound of a Shovelhead and that is a very good thing. I ran that same set of points and condenser for 11 years. (Blue Streak for the win!)
I replaced the lifters with Harley lifters and cam bearing at around 40,000 miles as that was the "common wisdom" at the time. While I was that deep, I installed a Crane "Fireball" cam and once again the gain in power was significant.
I don't know how much money, time, and effort I've saved over 5 decades of buying used Harleys, and not doing anything more to "hop them up" than changing exhaust pipes and air cleaners.
It's best not think about it and for sure don't total it all up lol.
@rarebreed9208 You and I think alike. Minimal mods are one thing and generally for me if it ain't broke don't fix it unless there is a known factory issue such as the cam tensioners.
@@GixxerFoo
Good video, as usual.👍
Best budget tips I have is to keep up on the maintenance and forget that hop up stuff.
That's honestly the best way to save your money. Exhaust, air cleaner and a tune, then call it a day.
Maintenance is one thing but rebuilding or upgrading is another. The one thing that saved me more money than anything was buying all the parts before I needed them. I buy parts that I know I will need to replace in the future. My ride ain't going anywhere, it's not being sold ever. So I bought gasket kits, loctite, tools, and parts a long time ago. The price for these items only goes up and parts become obsolete after 10 years. Now you may sell your ride or trade it in every few years. Buying parts to rebuild won't matter to you but having gaskets is always a must have. You never know when you'll need them...
That's a great idea honestly! You can't beat planning ahead and grabbing the parts now, they are only getting more expensive!
Parts only really become obsolete on the newer computerized bikes. My 1989 FXRS EVO is 35 years old, and I have no problems finding parts for it.
Just get a cam kit, replace everything in the cam box, you'll save money in the long run with the extra durability. You can go Screamin Eagle, Feuling, or S & S, take your pick, I'm kinda partial to S & S since they add an extra stage to their oil pump, every thing else being equal. As for cams, just don't go to race cams for the street, you'll never use the top end horsepower, just go for low to mid range power because that is something you'll use. Remember that high lift cams will require top end work to keep from destroy your engine in so many ways and quickly too. If you do your research, due diligence and advance planning you can make a 100k mile motor, and may get much more than that, thus saving you big $$$ in the long run...
The larger cost up front sucks but it is a game changer and life saver in the long run!
My 1999 FXDX was bought used, looked into the cam chest and found s&s gear drive, Feuling 7000 oil pump but stock cams and plate, so far its ran great with the addition of Daytona twintec ignition, Mikuni 45 jetted right and an old Supertrapp 2-1 exhaust I modified to fit, it runs great with strong oil pressure and quiet motor, I won't be changing anything until it needs to be.
That's a really nice surprise to find when you buy a used bike!!
The Screaming Eagle Kit was added and done by the Harley-Davidson Dealer on my 2003 Road King Classic after being purchased new, thus converting my 88 V-Twin to a 95.
My other performance upgrades include adding the Power Commander 6 Tuner and the Ultra Cool Oil Cooler which has made a tremendous difference in my bike's performance and operating engine temperatures.
I recently had my bike Dyno Tuned and my 2003 Road King Classic's horsepower rating is now at 88+ and my torque at 99+. I feel a real difference with improved throttle torque response and top end ride performance. Fun. Not too bad for an 03' Road King Classic.
In addition to my bike's elevated performance the bonus is my fuel mileage has greatly improved after I was shown my results by the shop after the Dyno Tune!
I never discount those 95's with the short stroke, they run really really hard!
Best tip I know is keeping it stock. 😂
There's always that and it's honestly the safe and reliable route.
Thanks again as usual, always good content. Personally I find in the long run it’s always better to replace it all or pay for it multiple times because I didn’t.
It really is much cheaper and more to your advantage to do it all at once. It's never cheaper or easier to do a little bit at a time.
I bought a camplate used and Feuling 525 conversion cams for my 2001 FLTRSE.Cost me 850 and couldn’t be happier!
Dang you got a good deal on that right there!
I have an aftermarket exhaust, but only for the sound. I have the stock air cleaner. I have a carbureted EVO , so it don't need no "tuner". Aside from a few accessories, and a bunch of added chrome, it is stock. The engine is 100% stock. I just pack a few things on it, and hit the road. Cross a couple of state lines. That's how to have fun on a Harley. You don't need performance. Just a comfortable seat from which to watch the miles roll by.
The beauty of those carbs is just needing a jet kit and you're good to go!
Yes all true. However the early m8's had a terrible oil pump. So definitely replace it when upgrading the cam.
Absolutely on the M8's, 2017, 18 and 19 before they went to the updated oil pump on the 2020's you will for sure want to put in a new updated Harley oil pump at the minimum.
Everyone told me to do the 1200 kit on my 883 . I said when it wears out.25 years later l am still waiting for her to wear out.
That 883 will outlive us all, you just gotta do it on those Sportsters rather than waiting for them to wear out.
@@GixxerFoo l paid for those parts and l won't waste money 💰 replacing parts that still work. If l wanted speed l would buy a rice rocket 🚀.
@@GixxerFoothe 883 is a Briggs and Stratton mower engine. It's so understressed it can't wear out. But performance is hardly it's selling point.
Upgrades are far from cheap when buying new the 1200 was actually a bargain.
Still a great bike when compared to a 1970s British bike. I have one in the shed that's a board track racer appreciation. Not sure I'll ever ride it but a fun build from scratch.
25 years of unrealized thrills.
Most important advice I can give is to match the components.
This is really important to get what you expect.
Bigbore blocks can't breath through badly shaped ports and valves without adequate valve lift or duration and overlap.
If you really want to enjoy the ride on the road be really cautious as it's so easy to get sidetracked by giant horsepower that you can rarely use.
117 M8 bottom end grunt is mediocre but I would rather keep that than have something that struggles to pull below 3 grand.
I agree, I really like matched components myself as well too. I am not a fan of mixing and matching parts.
I took my bone stock 2011 FLHX and totally went nuts this off season. I did all the work myself and my trusty service manual.
New updates
S&S 551C cams
S&S TC 3 camplate with high flow oil pump with S&S cam bearings
S&S precision lifters
S&S quickie adjust pushrods
Fuelmoto 2-1-2 headers
S&S Grand National Mufflers
JRI coil over rear shocks
Progressive Monotube front suspension
Arlen Ness air kit
KST 10” Mayhem bars
Darkhorse Comensator
Barnett Clutch w/ 6 spring pressure plate
Saddleman Step Up Seats
I did get the bike tuned and did it all for way less than buying a new bike
Your going to love that 551 S&S cam, 0-4000 is spectacular and above that it carries out very nicely , who needs a new bike you’ve got one!!!!
I couldn’t believe my crank runout was only .004 lol I got lucky with this 96” motor love your videos
That's a sweet setup!! That's gonna run hard!
I swapped the cam and cam bearings on my Evo at about 100 miles on bike. I ran the stock lifters for 70K miles. It had a little tick but ran great when I sold it. I did tell the new owner that they were the originals.
Dang that's impressive it went to 70K on original lifters!! Usually about 40K is the absolute max on those guys!
I do maintenance, don't do short cuts. Get a quote to do it right and not take short cuts and it's either I have the funds to it the right way and not skimp on anything or I wait and save up. Skimping or short cuts is a disaster waiting to happen.
Skipping over things to save a few bucks can cost you big time in the long run, it's really not worth it!
Another great show 👏 Well done brother 😊
Thank you! Really appreciate your support over here!
As an evo guy I will say cam bearing, lifter and quick adjust pushrods are a must
Those things are just too inexpensive to not have when compared to the cost of a motor!
My 2023 Street Glide is actually getting (Today) Zippers RD 468 Cam, cam bearing, Fueling Lifters, S&S Lifter Cuffs and adjustable pushrods. Bassani Cat-less head pipe. I chose to forgo The Cam Plate and Oil Pump as the bike is still in it's initial break in period......however, may upgrade those parts next winter....after my bank account has recovered.....before spring hit I already completed upgrades to seating, lighting, air cleaner, slip ons, bars, hand and foot controls and Ohlins front/ rear suspension. Oh and the Harley (Boat Anchor Tuner) that was an impulse buy at when I bought the SG .....was upgraded to a Dynojet Power Vision.......I pick up my bike tomorrow......Great Video.....and content as always Gixxer......Everything you stated is spot on...based on my bike at least.....
Thank you for the support! You're gonna love those upgrades on that bike! That PV is going to make a huge difference in the tuning on the bike!
I do everything at once. I think where the money really starts piling up is adding big bore kits. I did a cam chest upgrade with S&S 470 Gear Drive Kit and the Head Guardian kit on 114 M8 and it alone was a huge difference in performance under $2k. (Not including exhaust and tuner) The clutch has held up. (So far 😂)
I did the 88 to 95 upgrade 2002 FXDL in 2008 and it was $3k worth of parts back then. However it’s been rock solid reliable minus repairing leaks here and there over the years. I roasted a stator/regulator running a dead battery but that about the only real issue I’ve had.
Big bore kits and supporting parts really start to make it pile on, when you get that far you start looking at head work, springs, maybe new valves, rockers, it just starts hitting a point where it spirals lol.
@@GixxerFoo lol yep the proverbial rabbit hole 🕳️
The 30 - 40 k miles on an Evo sounds about right. Have a 96 s&s crate engine w/585 cam and almost grenaded one. Found the ticking and new set of lifters and quickie push rods. About 60k miles now runs like it was new.
I love to hear that! Lifters are always some you want to keep and eye on with your Evo when they some miles on them!
Don't need a cam plate or anything else for that matter, if original parts are good. But, New gaskets and and oil and filter is always a good idea!
Absolutely, it's a good day when you can reuse parts from stock and have it work well.
solid advice
Thank you! Trying to keep spreading the good word out there to everyone!
These days I'm more into reliability and comfort upgrades than horsepower upgrades. I did install a bolt-in cam and it was a good experience at the time. I don't regret it but the decrease in range and increased fuel consumption has me thinking that when I open it up to replace tensioners next time I might just stick the stock cams back in there.
Performance cams increase the power and put some more fuel in the bike and sometimes increase economy but the key is to stay out of throttle which defeats the whole purpose.
I don’t skip steps. Everything is new when doing cam or cams. If it’s not in my budget I wait till it is.
That's how to guarantee long term success without having to worry about it in the back of your mind!
Bro. I think im pretty knowledgeable on harleys, but i watch your videos and am amazed at how knowledgeable you are and how well you speak. Start to finish you put together fantastic videos. Like a well written college essay. Good for you!!!
I appreciate that! I just like to share my experiences with everyone and hopefully someone finds something they can use as well!
Great video! You are spot on with my thoughts.
Awesome, thank you! There's several ways to do it, it's all what your budget allows and your comfortable with.
Hi GixxerFoo, As per usual excellent content, on my 1200 sportster all I done was change exhaust and change carb , on FXR , Exhaust cam ignition carburettor! , on my DEUCE, EVERYTHING WAS DONE, 2-1 exhaust, cams, oil pump camp plate, lifter pushrods, 1550 kit,
Now starting all over again , I’m now back on the road, only this time I have a 2003 model DEUCE, NOT SURE ABOUT THE CRANK AND THE BEARING RUN OUT AND BEARING SET UP, just had the conformity done, hopefully it will go through, And now there is a control techniques to be done as it is in Europe, New registration plates, Two big issues with bike needs a new main drive belt to be fitted been quoted €1600 plus VAT from HD, To add salt into the wound, back in 2019 when I had to sell my original deuce that I had from brand-new, I got burgled later in the year and lost most of my tools that I had for servicing and rebuilding engines, So I’ve now got to purchase snoop talk kit, and I need a ride and lift, I think it’s still going to work out cheaper for me to do the main drive belt myself, even purchasing a bike lift, in with the cost, it’s still going to work out cheaper, As I do not work anymore as I am in my 70s, I have got to put some pennies aside each month, to save up for new components for bike, at least it will keep me out the mischief, 😂,
Keep up the great work, GixxerFoo, look forward to next weeks article, France
Thank you for the support!! Nothing I can't stand more in this world than thieves! Sounds like you've been having some fun with your bikes building them up to exactly what you want!!
@@GixxerFoo Hi 👋, GixxerFoo, I have been inside, 😱, my Deuce 2003 , I still have very big problems with the alarm system, I thought I had sorted it, but need to remove it,
But in side, it as been cam S&S gears ⚙️, drive, T510G , but it still has the HD plate , but not sure just if the oil pump is S&S , need to put some more light on it to see,
I have taken a compression test, It’s around about 122 compression in each cylinder, Considering the bike is done approximately 50,000 miles, I’ve now got a funny feeling, that it might have been changed from 1450 to a 1550, Don’t know how to check this without dismantling everything, what is your opinion please?.
And I have found out since that I have a very bad air leak on the inlet manifold to head gasket , whoever put the Mikuni HSR 42 , I think at The clamps have been tightened too much on one side, Not sure whether I had mentioned in the past, but I had a lot of popping banging on acceleration,
Going to wait until I finally get my paperwork through , then we’ll have to source a two into one exhaust system, as at the moment I put the original ones on, I must be going deaf I can’t hear it running, ha ha,
Hopefully, you’ll get this before Friday , if not, I’ll redo the message again on Friday so you can see it,
As you say, miss those cars , stay safe, From France.
You don’t need to pull the heads to remove the push rods. Just need to remove the rocker cover then the rockers. You’ll need to do this anyway to install the “rocker lockers” to quiet down that new Wood cam.
When I put in Woods 555 cams, I changed the bearings and cams, just did like you said and bulled the rocker boxes. Had the fuel tank off for repainting so it was no big deal. Just make sure the base dia of the new cams are the same as factory.
Yeah the wood cams really do increase that tick, but they really bump the valves so you do get some more mechanical noise with the wood.
I remember when I swapped the cam in my 86 FXR Evo you had to match the cam gear to the pinion gear!
You absolutely have to make sure to do that with the old Evo's. You gotta be careful what you buy for the Sportsters too since they changed the gear tooth patterns back in the 90's.
New cam chest and high volume oil pump a cam chain tensioners in 05 with new bearings. And as you once it's opened up mite just as well do a few other things. The budget was destroyed. Fresh paint new y pipe and rocker lockers an so on. But not cutting corners will save me dollars down the road. 🏍🏍
It's easy to blow the budget but well worth it when it's all done!
I still believe if your gonna go Cams on a Older Bike?....Gotta do a whole Camchest Change....I did and am very happy with it.....
I agree, that's the way to do it to be safe and guarantee it works out in the long run!
I did an Andrews kit with gear driven cams & 30 tooth trans pulley on my TC88. 90tq/86hp
Those are some really solid numbers on an 88, that's the sweet spot on those motors if you ask me.
I met a guy that worked on Harley’s out of his garage and made a deal with him to help him on other bikes , cleaning parts changing tires etc. Also did lawn maintenance for him etc. For him to direct me in rebuilding an 81 tour glide ! He let me do the work ! Also ended up rebuilding the transmission and clutch ! Then years later after my divorce I went to AMI and took a course in Harley mechanics .
That's awesome! That's the absolute best way to learn, that's kinda how I learned to work on bikes myself too!
Bought a 2006 road king flhpi "Sam"..he came with se203 cams, SE camplate , high volume oil pump, Se adjustable pushrods,lifters,and a K&N air cleaner element. I've added V&H slip ons,& Vented the crank case breather externally The bike runs great. I put 12,000 miles on him in first year. Then I had him apart to install some 12" handlebars also to perform some,chassis,and wheel maintenance for almost a year... (My fault not his) Got him back together good enough to ride Christmas Eve 23... 5400 miles or so in the few months of decent riding weather we've had ... No problems so far . Oh I forgot to mention he's got 92,578 on his engine transmission and primary.... If you want your sled to run good and have longevity don't screw around.. Mr. Foo nows what he's talking about ... upgrade, and replace anything that has been problematic. Get your parts pile together before you tear it down , then when you do you won't have it down for a year because you found shit you didn't want to think about... Realistically, it keeps you in the wind, and makes it straight forward when upgrading the chest... I removed mine during the maintenance debacle for inspection everything looked perfect. I reused everything but the cam cover gasket .... I love my big streetmower.❤ I mow the pavement at least once a day.. 😅😂
That's awesome! You got some killer parts in those bikes!
@@GixxerFoo yes sir I am a blessed individual. People ask me " Is that your bike?" Being that he paid his dues for 82,000 before I got him, my response is always, " Actually he's his own bike, im just the rider/ caretaker." People laugh, but he's got his own personality. He's like every other retired vet I know.... Not real pretty to look at, commands respect when he talks.. (88" sounds like a 110" 😂) and when challenged to rise to the occasion, will surprise the shit out of you. Gotta say Im proud to have him around. ❤️
Great video, I did the 255 cams and cam bearing's and S&S push rods and FP3 at 32K on the 09 flhtc. running strong at 78K.
Oh, I do change the oil and filter, (every 5-6k). I did lose the splines on the clutch basket at 70K and the compensator at 73K, replaced that with a dark horse unit. I call it a great success!
Sounds like you've got a nice setup there! I would say it's a success too!
I’ve heard rumor of twin cam guys that have spring tensioners, removing the spring tensioners and running nothing but the chains🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Some guys swear by that and that they don't have any issues. For the most part it does seem to work pretty well but I have heard of the chain jumping a tooth, I haven't seen myself though.
@@GixxerFoo if I can pick up an older twin cam with spring tensioners, I’m going to try it and set what happens. All my other bikes, I’ve done the hydro conversion with 07 and newer cam chest parts. I’ll be sure to let ya know when I make that venture
When doing a any upgrades I would suggjest spending a little extra money to avoid having to go back in and doing it again .
That's what I highly suggest is waiting to do it all at once when someone can afford it but some people just want to get rolling with what they can afford at the time.
You should do a video on adjustable pushrod brands. Apparently some fit better than others.
That's a good point! They do fit slightly different and some work better than others, that's a big reason why I like to match components with the same manufacturer.
🤘🏻Hell yeah🤘🏻My wife is looking to get her first Harley🤯
That's awesome! What is she interested in getting?
@@GixxerFoo Either a twin cam or an Evo Dyna model👊🏻
Both are great choices. 👍
@@dcccharles4569 I think so! She has always been a passenger on my bike but loves power, speed and being in control. I have been trying to get her to get a bike for a while so when she said she was looking at one, I about shit my pants and started doing backflips. It would be amazing to ride along side my wife
A buddy bought an 04 or so cvo glide with a 103 from a used dealer for 14k. Brought it home, fired it up this spring and the cam bearings unalived themselves immediately and trashed the engine.
Dealer offer him 2k of the 10k it will cost.
That sucks, when I test ride I test for destruction lol joking.
Oh my gosh that's horrible, I saw a video from SRK years ago where they sold a guy a touring bike with an 88 and the tensioners came apart almost immediately. He went to Harley dealer and wanted to charge him about 10 grand to put a new motor in. SRK swapped him for another Harley he liked and I believe ate the cost on the bike, I mean considering they likely got it for next to nothing at auction.
Good stuff as usual! Just put the Wood 22XE in my ‘22 M8. I went ahead and did the plate, oil pump, and did injectors and a ported manifold. Got about a 35 HP and 34 TQ gain. Out of the things you mentioned I would strongly suggest new lifters, for sure cam bearing. Replacing the bearing is a must. Adjustable pushrods will indeed also save you time which = money. Other stuff is helpful but optional! FuelMoto did say they have done hundreds of cam plate swaps, many on bikes with more than .005, and have not had one come back. So do with that as you wish!
That's awesome to hear with Feuling parts! S&S requires .005 or below on their cam plate, Feuling has their OE+ which is supposed to have looser tolerances to allow for crank run out. That's pretty cool if their race plates are taking more than .005 run out, it's pretty much accepted now that high run out is here to stay with stock cranks.
I need more of these!
Maybe you could just weld up the cam lobes and file the lift you want.
That's a lost art these days, there's not a lot of people out there with the skill these days to do that.
@@GixxerFoo I was just following your line of cheesy ness
2009 Super glide custom. just had an idea of what I wanted to do and slowly bought parts over a few months. I didn't buy the most expensive parts I could either. Got a dang good deal on the Woods tw222 cams. Bought S&S lifters, adjustable push rods and cam bearings. Bought feuling OE Plus cam plate and oil pump and tensioners. Already had the tuner.
That's awesome! You love that setup in the bike! It's gonna rip with that setup done!
@@GixxerFoo Oh yeah. She runs pretty good. I've been thinking of finding some 103 jugs and pistons. But for now she good.
I am one of the few people who prefer non adjustable pushrods (original) over adjustable ones. Just a personal preference. I've seen a few adjustable ones fail and it's not that big of a job to remove them, maybe an extra hour. Here's a fun fact, the original design of the Evo had 2 piece rocker covers identical to the Twinkie but they were unable to gain access into the top of the motor hence why they modified it to 3 pieces.
I personally like solid pushrods, they are stronger and there's no lock nut to back off. I'm sure you're well aware it does happen, not often but it only takes once and you're in for a big bill. Solid push rods with cam swaps and engine work, you've got to be exact and get it right or you're in for a real big bill before you even ride it.
Kept my 2001 sportster C chromed out and it gets all kinds of attention and I absolutely love it and enjoy working on it when needed. Don’t get me wrong I want something a little bigger and a faring but I’m Happy for now
Nothing wrong with a Sportster, those have always been my bike of choice. Once you get a good suspension on there it makes all the difference.
My 2002c has got ALL the catalog gee gaws. The ones the po happened to miss, I've added. It gleams! Just one way to do an XL.
If you have a CV40 or CV44 carburetor the addition of a Yost power tube is a must have. No more sneezing and you gives more adjustability on your needle as it comes with a pin that has 5 different grooves on it. You can also lean the piss out of it. Currently running a 42 pilot jet and 220 main on my CV44 and i have a 113 Ultima El Bruto. Its pretty fast
Those 113's are no joke, they will roast a tire in short order!
@@GixxerFoo every 2,000 miles needs a rear tire 😞
I've not been around d when a vid is uploaded. 3 min. on the tube. But importantly, I totally appreciate the info. Especially how there are sections for specific engines. I ended up on an 09 dyna fat bob with 7700 miles on it. I went stage one cuz I'm po', bit it now hits 74+horses and 88+ pound feet torque. I'm pretty happy when she's singing now!!
That's awesome! I love those Fat Bobs, best handling dyna ever made! We really appreciate your support on the channel!
I have no budget...
I had to sell my bike and will probably never have another because I'm too poor.
Damn I hate to hear that, hopefully you can get into another bike!
In the early 70's, we were all poor and had (mostly Panhead) Harley choppers. Different world.
Always a great video thank you
Thank you! I really appreciate the support!
great info. thanks 👍🏾
Anytime, we appreciate the support!
I’ve got a 2011 Ultra with the 96” with 88k miles on it. Bought it off my dad for $1 when he upgraded to a 2019. After all the research, the fuel moto 107 big bore kit with everything in it is $1400 and gives you everything you need and seems like the best value. I don’t think I’m going to swap the cam plate and pump. Save that money for swapping the crappy radio🤣
That's a good direction to right there, that's not a bad price at all on that kit either! Yeah those radios from back in the day left a lot to be desired.
I have always bought a bike got to know it and decide what I wanted to do to it. Winter projects up in yooper land are a lot of fun. I don't skimp on quality. I don't just throw money at motors either. That is way to expensive. What I do is take the time to purchase the parts I want as I go. If it is going to be an expensive build use time to buy parts when you can afford them and some times get lucky and hit a sale. Head work is well worth the time and money. Cams too. Used motors change sizes , IE lifter bores. Harley stock pumps gotta go so do cam bearings. Nope even if I am sitting on the money for a build I wouldn't buy every thing at once. Time and money. Regardless when it comes to engine building you have to have a plan and the time to execute it.
That's the way to do it! You can do it a little bit of time on everything else but for sure all at once on the motor!
Good advice!
Glad it was helpful!
😎👍
Big thumbs up for the channel...
Thank you!!!
@@GixxerFoo I gotta support your channel...
You're the most knowledgeable Harley guy I've ever seen...
Keep up the great work Brother...
😎👍
I just have an exhaust on my twin cam 88 Softail, and I'm not doing anything else, when I was in the go fast mode I rode a Turbo Hayabusa
Sound and looks are really what a Harley is all about, I honestly leave mine about like yours. I might do a cam now and again on one of my own just cause they are fun with a little added power.
Like your channel man. It’s not all about spending more but how can you get things done .
We appreciate the support! Some of the most bad ass engines and builds ever come from here and there, little bit at a time.
Any chance you can do another video on the blowby, is it really an issue and the solutions for it such as vented transmission covers, vented dipsticks and vented air cleaners.
I can do an updated video on that, it's more of an issue on the M8's is that they have high crank case pressure. The new updated oil pumps have sold a lot of that problem on the M8 but still isn't a bad idea to vent it as much as possible.
My Evo trashed the lifters at 20k. My TC 88 has spring tensioners with 25k on that have almost no wear. I have to replace all the chrome covers on my '99 FXDL. Only the primary drive isn't flaking. It's getting a full restore, my third Harley since 1988 and don't plan on needing another. Factory workshop manual has a typo that will cause issues for early TC. Says to tighten lower exhaust header nut to 10 ft lbs.
It is 100% 10 in/lbs followed by 60-80 in/lbs. If you go by metric given it's 1nm which is 10 in lbs. I replace the exhaust gaskets every time, they are made of space cheese but work great for the first install. Always chase the threads clean, it's ok to run a tap on the wire wheel to make it a bit blunt or use an old tap that won't bite the metal.
I saved £10k not buying a newer Harley so £2k on restoring a '99 is money well spent. Running Fueling 525 with a carb and Vance and Hines straight shots quite baffles,earplugs don't help much at all.
Wouldn't go back to an Evo.
The wild thing about 88's with springs is some will eat them early or they will last like yours has. Evo's are pretty consistent in their roaching of lifters on time every time lol.
That's because you needed to install the upgrade dash "B" ones (18523-86B). They're easily good for 40,000 miles without any issues if you stay on top of your oil changes. Don't blame the motor, it's the inferior junk parts that HD installed on these turds. Same thing with the charging system. They knowingly installed garbage charging systems and sent them out the door only to have you the consumer get "F _ _ ked". Same holds true with their cam bearings and a lot of other things. I have well over 500,000 miles on my Evo's combined and wouldn't trade any of them in for a brand new CVO bike of my choice. Once you learn the common failure points it will outlast anything out there even a Japanese bike.
Good video Brad,, should do one on M8s,,
Everything in this video applies to the M8, but the M8's do have some parts we could go over like the lifter guides. They went with plastic ones from the factory.
Evos definitely rule! I was going to go with a high lift Comp Cams VThunder cam, but after reading a lot of what others had done and the success they have had, I decided to just go with an Andrews EV-27. I bought a rocker box and cam swap gasket sets and a set of factory lifters from Cyco Gaskets. (Check them out, great prices on factory stuff.) Haven't installed yet, just painted the inner fairing on my '95 Electra Glide. Trying to finish my deep maintenance so I can ride again.
That's one thing I really like about Evo's is the parts are cheaper than any other Harley out there!
That's the best cam for an Evo in my opinion. I even installed that one on my 1998 Road Glide that has an Ultima 4-5/8" stroker flywheel assembly in it. It really comes alive on the highway when doing 70-80 mph
@@kennethwise7108 that’s awesome! I would have thought it would be too small for stroker applications considering all that is published from dyno sessions, but it is definitely a nice cam. You can use cheap factory lifters instead of having to buy performance grade, and you can use the stock pushrods.
@@xlr8r3VA yep, I'm EXTREMELY happy with my setup. I run stock pushrods and the upgraded genuine HD dash "B" lifters and I'm able to consistently get 50mpg depending on how twitchy your wrist is lol
Wouldn't trade that set up for anything. I have 90' lbs of torque and that's plenty enough for me. Believe it or not I'm running a factory airbox and mufflers too. The only thing big on the mill is the stroke and my main jet which is a 200. When it kicks in its almost like a 2 stroke dirt bike lol
He said "Milwaukee 8!" BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA.. He so funny 😂🤣😅😆
The M8's have had their issues but they are turning out to be really solid motors once you get the little things fixed.
@@GixxerFoo I'm just having a little fun man.😎
And also keep in mind what your end goal is for your bike! That should influence your decisions also!
Exactly! That's my first question to anyone is what are your goals with this before we go any further.
I just put new pipes, cams, & lifters I was thinking of doing new higher comp pistons & maybe taking my heads to stage 2 but time & money got in the way
Budgets are tough these days, everything is so high now. Twin Cam cam sets were like 300 bucks a few years ago now you're looking at 4 to 500 bucks.
@@GixxerFoo
I got the comp cams short travel lifters for 110$ got the comp tc 3103 cams for 220$ , got everything else on fuel moto sale👍
Take one for a test ride in the way you normally ride before you commit.
Big money these days if it turns out you actually hate it.
Any chance you could do a video on lighting upgrades? I'm looking into doing a full replacement of all stock lighting for my 2010 Roadking Classic and I'd love your expert opinion on what's out there these days.
There's some high dollar lighting out there, but if you're on a budget some of the mid level or are I say it Amazon products aren't bad at all!
Best lifters you like for an EVO replacement??? Thanks
Feuling and S&S makes some great performance lifters, check out Jims as well too!
Gonna get my '23 FXLRS "VIP"(a stupid thing to buy as you're only paying ahead of time for maintenance way beyond what you'll ever need[about $3K]) 1K service done Monday. On top of that, state inspection and Softail bolt recall. How much do you think the HD dealer bill will be? I think $60 max for state inspection(other stuff should be included as a "VIP" but I don't trust the scoundrels and bet they'll pile it on higher than that). We shall see After that is done, all bets are off and I'll do my own work and mods(cam, oil pump, exhaust, tuner etc.) to the engine. I know how to do it. I am looking forward to it. I own the machine outright and can take the risk of warranty rejection. It is just a motorcycle. But for the 1st service, I guess letting them check it for junk in any of the oils is worth it. I hope they're honest. I am surprised they scheduled me so quickly as NH motorcycle week is only 1 week away. P.S. I'll be super upset if runout is > 0.005"...would not be my fault but I am subject to whatever the OEM did and their specs. Makes me a bit nervous with the oil pump. We'll see on that too.
I'm not sure what they are charging in NH but I can say that here in Oklahoma I had my dealer do a first service which was about 160 bucks. That was high to me, but I have heard a first service running as much as 300 bucks at some dealers.
How to stay on budget with your Harleys is do your regular maintenance, keep your oil changed periodically. Stock power is more than enough for my 2004 Roadking. Why should I step up the performance while I'm still using stock brake? Even after I step it up with hi perf brake system, well that doesn't guaranteeing for safe stop from 160 km/h to zero. Well? Stay stock. Just my 2 cents
No one really is interested in brakes and suspension, they all want motor work. I personally will choose brakes and suspension over engine work in a lot of cases. I have never ever had anyone have regrets about brakes and suspension.
@@GixxerFoo in my country, they do really concern about comfortability and style, thus they changed their suspension with Öhlins. They spent thousand dollars just for suspension. Motorwork? Of course, they also bought crate engine just for going over 135 hp, but they don't really care about braking system. Such an irony
7:33 I've never done a cam swap! Why? Never had a problem with stock and rode many miles on my bikes!
Nothing wrong with exhaust, air cleaner and a tune only!
I kept stock cam bearing in my 2023 lowrider st i done stg 2 with 900 miles and it was already the upgraded bearing so i kept it...
I don't see an issue with that with that low of miles especially if it's already the upgraded version.
@@GixxerFoo yep already had the good bearing that looked exactly like the timken bearing I had bought to go in it.
My used oil goes in my oil can so I can squirt oil when I need it.. and they use it my old John Deere tractor.
Nothing wrong with that at all!
Moe can stretch a dollar better than most, I've seen his youtube channel and that's a fact. Even his tires make for great bird houses (except for the white walled ones) 😂
I know how to solve that problem, get an EVO haha
Lol Evo's really are how you solve the tensioner, cam plate and any other Harley related issue you can think of outside of getting a Honda.
To each their own, but in my opinion stock cam support plates are weak. They're cast aluminum so unless things like temperature and flow rate is perfect, you're going to end up with weird gain structure and porosity. I think that most people who are doing a cam swap are going to be a little more, if not a lot more aggressive in riding style. You're going to want that stronger forged plate in the long run.
I agree, I did an entire video on the cast cam plates versus the billet aluminum cam plates. The stock cam plates aren't 100% the best by any length of the means.
@GixxerFoo from my own experience, a cam swap is only the beginning. If you start adding more and building onto the cams, you're definitely going to want their foundation to be rock solid. I've been upgrading a 2000 88TC over the past few years, up to 105hp/108tq. The first thing I started with was actually the clutch.
That 2000 88TC is a beast. 👍
What’s up buddy!
Nope 525 fueling coverion kit the best all done for 88 😅
Those conversion kits with a new set of cams are an awesome setup for the 88's.
Harleys are best for converting gasoline to noise without the added benefit of horsepower.
The new M8's are making some really impressive numbers but it ain't cheap either.
Just buy a Boss Hog and have a lot of power.
Those are insane, lol basically an engine with wheels and not much room for much else!
My 09' fxd has 15k miles and i hate to open a perfectly good running motor...if it needed motor work yes, but for now ehhh
That's how I am a lot of times on my own stuff, I hate to get in there especially when it runs great the way it is.
@GixxerFoo even on my MX bikes they're too good to open em up
I have a $20K fxrs that blue books for $3800. 😂
You are not alone!
Lol at least you will admit it, I have had several in my riding career just like that.
Do you have a recommendation on adjustable pushrods that are not crazy expensive.. ones that you can you know you don't have to take the rockers off.. I think it's called like easy pushrods or something like that.. the S&S I don't know if that's the Pinnacle but there are very expensive.. this would be for my shovelhead or my evolution motor thank you
Well and I want to find one adjustable that are strong also I've heard they can bend.. I mean you're not as strong as the non-adjustable..
Solid pushrods are always going to be stronger, you might check out Feuling but S&S are really really hard to beat. FuelMoto has their house brand which are pretty good as well.
@@GixxerFoo yeah I just want something that's going to work that I don't have to take the heads off to take the pushrods out.. there was another manufacturer, someone mentioned to me but I don't remember the name but the whole thing yeah I just don't want to take the heads up each time especially in a Softail cuz it's such a Rubik's cube to get The rocker box off in the rear
@@GixxerFoo I'll look up the house brand add S&S I guess that's kind of like the house beer LOL
I have spent thousands on all my Harleys Building them for HP Love to get them up and running Trouble is EVO do not like to much HP 75 is fine 80-100 is pushing it over the top they don't hold up long 5000 miles . I just did lifters a cam, cam bearing and cam cover with cam shims 800 dollars . I have a S&S case and Mikuni 42 SE heads I built a rocket .
I will take a 75-80 horse Evo all day long, the numbers don't sound exciting but the pull and feel of the Evo can't be beat with a little bump in power.
How's that rocket holding up Jeff?
@@GixxerFoo Me 2 Foo , Unfortunately I have 1 bike and when its down Im out of luck . I did have 3 at one time them was the days .
@@kennethwise7108 Its doing fine right now , New cam Cam bearing Cam cover plus shims and I took the oil pan off and everything looks great . I caught it in time before major cortasterfy .
@@JCcanU SWEET!!!!
People say if don't have 2010 or newer that your not a real Harley Davidson owner. I say that is b.s. just a bunch of people who think that they are rich, just snobs with a little bit more money than others thinking they only deserve a Harley Davidson, I think that if you are regular person , do you need a 30 to 40,000 $ , to be a biker
I would say honestly that the reverse, the newer bikes just aren't what the older ones used to be. Too many gadgets and tech, I like them stripped down and you just ride.
a huge waste of money is buying an EFI tuner. Just buy the tune license and have the bike tuned..... skip the hardware (tuner)
The benefit of having the tuner is you own it and you can get updates and make changes as you please.
Just basic KNOWLEDGE about performance guys.... REMEMBER THE GOLDEN RULE......YES,more air+more fuel does=more power....BUT-- IT ALL MUST WORK TOGETHER IN HARMONY --more times than not,one swap out or upgrade NEEDS TO MOST LIKELY HAVE ANOTHER ONE ADDED TO GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR FIRST ONE... HARMONY, HARMONY & MORE HARMONY= HAPPY OWNER -- RIDE HARD-RIDE FAST- & ALWAYS RIDE SAFE !!!!🤔✌️🤜🤛
The basics are absolutely important! It's crazy how much some guys want to over look those basics and do the bare minimum on things.
If it ain't broke, leave it alone.
I have to admit it's hard to take apart a fully operational well running engine with good parts to put more new parts in it. But it sure is fun to make them fast!
It's an expensive hobby. Look for deals. Stay old school 😊
It really is, what's awesome is when you can find a deal with some motor work that's got the receipts.
@@GixxerFoo and from a reputable shop.
Just buy a fast bike first. Hot rods suck for actually using the bike, boat or car
If they are done right they aren't bad at all, you just have to keep it pretty mild. Bolt in cams for a Harley go a long way and don't sacrifice reliability.
If you can't even afford to put brand new oil and then don't even do the job
That's my thought as well, some people just absolutely want the bare minimum even presented with the absolute best options and possible consequences. It's like I am not trying to upsell you, just make your build successful.
😳Worst video ever worst advice ever there's so many things in here that absolutely need to be changed that need to be changed when you change out your cam like cam bearings and lifters 🤦🏾♂️
He did talk about replacing cam bearings and lifters. Did you listen to the entire video?
You must be a real goof ball or not know what fasicious is
We did talk about what you need to do and should do, honestly there are some other builders out there that will say you don't need new lifters as they are roller lifters.
I hav all S & S parts bhind cam cover along wit the woods tw555 cams and a Thundermax Autotuner and a baker compensator n manuel primary chain adjuster and rekluse torque drive clutchs.... my 2013 dyna fat bob 103 is a whole new and extremely fun fast animal. Most parts suggested by you gixxerfoo. Thx
That's awesome! I love to hear it's working out for you, I like to get the right parts in the right places and hear about successful builds!
I hav a 2013 dyna fat bob that i did do full bolt in cam swap and my crank run out is 4! Gess i got lukky
That's awesome! When you get a crank that's got lower run out especially when it's pressed you can't beat getting that lucky.