This series covers the basics of a typical day of Alpinsim and Mountaineering. In this video, Peter Mason explains how to short rope a climbing partner.
I have a bit of a problem with this video. The main thing to know about short roping that isn't mentioned at all here is that it's a quite dangerous technique really for use by very experienced guides in relatively safe terrain. For a non guide, an appropriate use for this is, for example, with your own much smaller and lighter child who is really nervous in terrain which is in fact completely safe. You use this to immediately stop a small slip before the person has really started moving. You don't use short roping to stop a "fall" because if you are in terrain where someone would take a real "fall" you should get some gear in and change techniques to either pitching it or properly moving together.
I was gonna ask this question. Like if the client falls wouldn’t it just drag the guide down with him? It seems pretty dangerous not having any gear between them.
@@erbium4308 Yes, that can happen, the "one off - all off" situation. A guide will normally not use short roping in terrain where that's a risk. Most importantly they practice lots and so they will react immediately and make sure that the client slips in a way so that they can stop themselves. There could be snowy terrain where, if you fell on your back you might keep sliding, but if you fall forward on your front with your boots down you will easily stop yourself. The client is inexperienced and might fall over backwards. The guide uses the short rope to keep them the right way up, even if they slip. That can be good terrain for short roping - *if you know what you are doing*. Alternatively they could use short roping for a safe section and then start to use gear where there's a risk of a group fall. Definitely short roping shouldn't normally be used in terrain where the guide can't stop themselves easily if their own foot slips, even if that happens at the same time as the client slips. This is a separate skill from "moving together" and "simul-climbing" where you use gear on the rope.
@@tupbup2666 if you need to ask then you shouldn't be the person deciding. If your father is the experienced person then he might set you up with a rope and you should trust him to judge. If neither of you is experienced then don't rope up together and do consider talking to a guide.
The rope is secured only by your hand's grip? With a long tail to build energy before catching on the rest of rope on your body. You can curl Mr. Peter? hmmm
Length would depend on a few factors like of you needed it for anything else i use a 40m dry treated rope usually one thats pretty hard wearing thats also dynamic as static ropes are not as versatile and about 10 mil think will do. Hope that helps
With so many people going up with video recorders there must be lots of footage of people saving their partners on short ropes like this if it's something that actually happens. Has anyone got footage of it happening?
I went out on the Arete a month later by myself down to the Cosmique hut for lunch and then back. The way down was sloppy and slushy, later on the way back the snow firmed up and was much easier to grip on. If the weather would have been worse, or the wind would have been buffeting me, I wouldn't have gone out by myself, but it was a gorgeous day and I am glad I went. I did have a French guide giving me sh!t for being out there on my own, as he was coming up with his clients and I was going down, he wanted to have a discussion with me and I really had to time to deal with him, nor the desire. Do what you gotta do and have fun experiences. I was no safer if I would have been roped up to someone else and most likely it would have been unsafer having to worry about someone else slipping and falling. I truly believe the French guide was in more peril than me with the three noob clients that he had in tow.
I have a bit of a problem with this video. The main thing to know about short roping that isn't mentioned at all here is that it's a quite dangerous technique really for use by very experienced guides in relatively safe terrain. For a non guide, an appropriate use for this is, for example, with your own much smaller and lighter child who is really nervous in terrain which is in fact completely safe. You use this to immediately stop a small slip before the person has really started moving. You don't use short roping to stop a "fall" because if you are in terrain where someone would take a real "fall" you should get some gear in and change techniques to either pitching it or properly moving together.
I was gonna ask this question. Like if the client falls wouldn’t it just drag the guide down with him? It seems pretty dangerous not having any gear between them.
@@erbium4308 Yes, that can happen, the "one off - all off" situation. A guide will normally not use short roping in terrain where that's a risk. Most importantly they practice lots and so they will react immediately and make sure that the client slips in a way so that they can stop themselves. There could be snowy terrain where, if you fell on your back you might keep sliding, but if you fall forward on your front with your boots down you will easily stop yourself. The client is inexperienced and might fall over backwards. The guide uses the short rope to keep them the right way up, even if they slip. That can be good terrain for short roping - *if you know what you are doing*. Alternatively they could use short roping for a safe section and then start to use gear where there's a risk of a group fall.
Definitely short roping shouldn't normally be used in terrain where the guide can't stop themselves easily if their own foot slips, even if that happens at the same time as the client slips.
This is a separate skill from "moving together" and "simul-climbing" where you use gear on the rope.
Michael De La Rue ah that makes much more sense thanks
hello im 13 years old and im doing matterhorn with my faher i am 120 pounds at 5 6 and my father is 200 pounds at 6 foot do i rope up at all or?
@@tupbup2666 if you need to ask then you shouldn't be the person deciding. If your father is the experienced person then he might set you up with a rope and you should trust him to judge. If neither of you is experienced then don't rope up together and do consider talking to a guide.
Top notch! Keep them coming please, and thanks!
Good stuff, please make more
Great - simple, clear and comprehensive. Thanks!
I echo the comments about the clarity and ease of understanding.
Excellent
The rope is secured only by your hand's grip? With a long tail to build energy before catching on the rest of rope on your body. You can curl Mr. Peter? hmmm
What meter rope are you using for this vid? diameter, static vs. dynamic as well; thanks
Length would depend on a few factors like of you needed it for anything else i use a 40m dry treated rope usually one thats pretty hard wearing thats also dynamic as static ropes are not as versatile and about 10 mil think will do. Hope that helps
With so many people going up with video recorders there must be lots of footage of people saving their partners on short ropes like this if it's something that actually happens. Has anyone got footage of it happening?
I know that I'm a bit late to the party but at minute 28:55 it shows a guide stopping a fall of his client ua-cam.com/video/4rfA9FppC1I/v-deo.html
partner isn't listening in the slightest lol he's just happy to be there
I went out on the Arete a month later by myself down to the Cosmique hut for lunch and then back. The way down was sloppy and slushy, later on the way back the snow firmed up and was much easier to grip on. If the weather would have been worse, or the wind would have been buffeting me, I wouldn't have gone out by myself, but it was a gorgeous day and I am glad I went. I did have a French guide giving me sh!t for being out there on my own, as he was coming up with his clients and I was going down, he wanted to have a discussion with me and I really had to time to deal with him, nor the desire. Do what you gotta do and have fun experiences. I was no safer if I would have been roped up to someone else and most likely it would have been unsafer having to worry about someone else slipping and falling. I truly believe the French guide was in more peril than me with the three noob clients that he had in tow.
What's the difference between an alpine guide and God? God doesn't think he is a guide.
Do you have one on what to do if the person on the other end of the rope does fall?
Hi Andrew, apologies for the slow response. Here's a link to a basic crevasse rescue: ua-cam.com/video/HS8fEyVcP1M/v-deo.html&feature=emb_title
where is that?
lewicypher chamiox, from cosmiquies station I think
How will your hand bi able to handle a fall of your partner 😅
Rifugio Torino maybe
Never mind blocking off the coils, that dunce is blocking off the gate when people are trying to walk through! Move off!!
for a gate that's been blocked there seems to be a lot of people passing through it...