Ice axe arrest / self arrest
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- Visit our website www.glenmorelod... or call us on 01479 861256
Glenmore Lodge instructor Mark Chaddwick runs through the important winter skill of self arrest, stopping a slide when in a variety of slide positions. Glenmore Lodge offer a range of winter skills courses from December to April, based in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, Aviemore.
The technique you taught saved me two years ago on Mt Shasta. And I was able to make summit. Thank you.
If you don't mind may I hear the story?
Let’s hear the story
@@Lo-wy2iw He slipped and self-arrested. There you go.
Wow it really is the most summitted mountain. Apparently even Jesus has been to the top.
I thought Jesus could walk on water or anything... so no need for ice axe...
The technique you taught saved me two years ago in the kitchen. And I was able to make it to the fridge. Thank you
lmao, shout out to that other guy for being able to summit though
Lmao I started reading your comment and thought "oh the devil's kitchen on Mt. Hood, bad place to fall" then I kept reading 😂
@@jarnold1789 same lol
Thank you for your service.
Ong
This video saved my life. I was skydiving with my friends and both of my parachutes failed, so I used this technique and eventually stopped on the ground.
Incredible. Very few people have been able to successfully pull off that maneuver
Just want to say a big thank you for this video. I watched it the week before I climbed great end via cust gully. I was 10 metres from the top then the snow gave way. And I fell two thirds of the way down. I thought I wasn't going to stop. Very scary. But believed in the technique. Thanks again. My climb was in Feb 2020.
Never been on a mountain outside of the Ozarks but planning my first trip now. Cut and clear videos of lifesaving skills like this are critical. Thanks for it.
Good skills! 0:48 I wish someone had told our Royal Marine Mountain Leader instructor that in 1987. There was a decidedly steep drop-off of a couple of hundred feet of you didn't get the ice axe arrest right first time. A hell of an incentive!
Ha... love it!
It doesn't even snow in my city but still it's 4 AM and I like to watch survival tip videos.
Thank you so much for these lessons...I am absolute mountaineering begginer and they are really really valuable for me...Keep up doing the great work.
how ya doing now?
@Blackie78kg Hey! How are you doing now? Did you become an expert mountaineer within the past decade?
@@lindsaybc2192 @mahma1067 Hey guys, noticed replies just now.Ast the matter of fact I have managed to achieve a lot of my personal goals. Mostly climbing mountains from 2-3000 meters high, in all seasons. Finished course for alpinism , both winter and summer climbing dry rock, but havent reached for some goals and routes. I hvae clomber more than 100 peaks, did few summer sky races (D +2200, 22.5km), seen some cool places in Alps Italian and Slovenian , Prokletije Mountains in Montenegro and Albania and other places alike on Balkans and Eastern Europe. .Mostly higher grade mountaineering, which was my aim. Thx again for asking and wish you all the health and luck!
GREAT video. Informative, to the point, and obviously a seasoned expert... This will be required viewing for my mountaineering wife who is to be receiving a Petzl Glacier 60 for Christmas. Thanks so much!
The theory is great and training is never wasted but... This has happened to me twice: 1. Disorientation traversing slope in a bad weather and white-out and 2. Avalanched from gully by a collapsed cornice (best part of 1000' in total including a 30 foot step out of the gully to the slope) - what a cruncher!.
Real situations are not much like braking on snow on nursery slopes and I must say that the acceleration and sheer speed are what you need to be prepared for. The first time braking helped but I was so disoriented - I stopped eventually and climbed back up to my traverse line. The second time I tried but the pick snatched out and it was really very hard to get my weight on the pick. In the end I ended up using the brim of my fibreglass helmet as the brake and that was suprisingly effective.
This video saved me after slipping down a very steep slope on Iztaccihuatl in Mexico. Thank you!!!!
Another +1 thanks for this video. It probably saved my life a few days ago climbing Middle Teton. I slipped coming down the couloir with my cramp-ons still on. Fell a long way and luckily missed all the rocks before I was eventually able to arrest.
I'm so grateful for this video. This just saved my girlfriend and me in Mount Fuji. Thank you so much!!
I've never hiked up a snowy mountain in my life and the closest is 17 hours drive.... but when I saw the video pop up I figured I shouldn't take any chances. I'm gonna have all the moves at the next slip-n-slide.
This video saved my life this past weekend at Mt Adams, thank you so much!
Great video instruction. The slow mo is very helpful!!
Best videos on the subject. Thank you and keep posting!
I feel like this is one of those videos that legitimately saved peoples lives.
Your videos are great. I will practice this until I can do it as smoothly as you.
Always worth practising until you have it nailed, you never know when it might save your life
Thank you thank you thank you! The slow motion was excellent! I have watched this a dozen times and your instruction is so wonderful! Now I know how to use my ax!
This is awesome. We just hiked to Everest Base Camp, and it peaked my interest in more technical climbing. Not sure where I can practice this in Pittsburgh PA (it rarely snows here anymore even in the winter), but I'm going to research! :)
Maine or Vermont maybe? I know there’s some stuff in Alaska and The northwest but that’s rather far
That's wild! Getting to Everest basecamp is a feat in and of itself, I'm already into mountaineering and that one seems far off to me.
I tried to climb a very popular mountain in my country called Chimborazo, we had a fell, the guide died, was a horrible experience than I'm getting better day by day, if I had saw this video a month ago, another will be the history, thank you !!
I'm picturing what you went through and I'm so sorry my friend.. I've been wanting so badly to come back to Ecuador to climb Chimborazo. I hope this hasn't discouraged you from climbing again.
As a jiu jitsu black belt who's never done any ice climbing this technique makes a lot of sense. It's very similar to getting power in a cross choke.
i am now immune to falling off damage when equipped with an axe, thanks
This dude has the best manner of speaking
I've never gone mountain climbing, nor do I intend to do so, but I still watched the whole video :D
It will come in handy if you read books on mountaineering
UA-cam: Wanna learn how to stop yourself from sliding on ice with an ice axe?
Me: I never hike on snow...
UA-cam: So you wanna?
Me: ok...
Great video! Very clear. Very good explanations too!
Just learned a valuable skill. Not sure when I'll get to use it since I don't have an ice axe. Also don't have ice.
The technique you taught saved me two years ago in the bathroom. And I was able to make it to the toilet again. Thank you.
This saved my life once, while climbing a Fourteener in Colorado (Wilson Peak, near Telluride). Without the ice axe I would've plummeted down a 1500 foot snowfield into a big pile of jagged rocks
highly appreciated and very valuable information. Thank you Glenmore Lodge!
It is alway appreciated this kind of information.
I don’t plan on mountaineering yet in my life, but while skiing I almost fell off the face of the mountain, from now on I plan to get an axe so I won’t have to worry about that so much
It's 3am, I've never ice climbed and never will - why am I here?
Watching this knowing im never going to use it but still loving every second
I'm 9 years late, I'm not an ice climber, but I still watched
Thanks now I finally know how to react to situations that could happen if I leave my room! The video was really good though!
Excellent presentation. So clear too!
Best demonstration I've seen. Thanks so much
Litterally never seen more than one inch of snow in my life and probably will never need to use this but this tutorial seemed great and I guess I know now!
I'm not an alpinist and will probably never need to use an ice axe but this is valuable knowledge to possess, thank you!
Nicely done, slow-motion is informative.
Excellent demonstration and presentation... I can't wait to practice this...
even though this is an informational video from nearly 10 years ago, that slope looks really fun to slide down on just by yourself with no sleds
Excellent demo
Fantastic video. Just what I needed thank you 😊👏🏻
Excellent. Intelligent and informative.
Dear instructor: please wear your backpack and crampons, then show what you have to show.
This is a real life saver!
Absolutely brilliant...
Great instructional video. Thorough and straight to the point.
Why do you have to remove the leash from your axe?
I nearly died this way on Elbrus, very bad memories....
I think I will leave it to more experienced ones....
Great instructions and video. Thank you
Very most people will do this based on instinct. Key is try not to panic and keep your thoughts together :)
I live in florida and I dont plan on doing any mountain climbing but I watched this whole video just in case
"don't run with scissors!"
yeah, but falling down a mountain with a large, metal spike is okay
Could you explain how to choose the right lenght of the axe for this purpose?
ah yes. midnight youtube content
very nice slow-mos
Good to know the mentioned techniques, however it's clearly visible that Mark also uses the spike for arresting (sometimes the pick doesn't even touch the ice) and he's also driving his elbow into the snow. It's not always possible to do those, but they seem useful for him in these clips.
Well I'm honestly not sure we're watching the same video, the spike may have contributed incidentally, but just from how much ice that pick is throwing it's clear he's using the pick, and his elbow is not doing the stopping, his elbow is a fulcrum to put as much force on that pick as possible. Are you talking about the part where he is spinning from headfirst? Because he explains how and why he picks up the pick during that section. Or maybe I've missed something, but I've looked a couple times now after seeing your comment, and I'm just not seeing it.
as a kid i loved doing this
Im not an ice climber nor am i planning on becoming one. But its 3 am so nothings out of question.
Great video
Mountaineering is the craziest shit ever. There is nothing harder that you can do.
excellent video, I find this very informative , thank you!
never been up a mountain and i hate the cold, i dont know why im watching this
Me living in Hawaii with 0% chance of snow: *interesting*
My dumbass thought he was gonna arrest someone with ice axe lol
strangely enough the axe spike, spade and the spike on the handle are not sharp at all on the two I have just bought, is that normal?
there is no way any of them would ever go through skin
Great explanation!
Wow, thank you!
Dont worry, this is instinctive. It happend to me, 1 st time on ice, on a very steep glacier. Without thinking and never be taught, that is exactly what you do. And honestly it is quite fun. I was afraid only later, when i was told there were big crevasse very close of where i stopped, after 200 meters of slide.
Excellent.
Maybe this is a dumb question: When you press down with your shoulder onto the axe why doesn't it... hurt?
This guy is awesome man
Great video !
This is great when I ever leave my bedroom
thanks for sharing
I’m never gonna do this, but now I know how.
Learning all this stuff yourself is more fun and fullfilling. Forget these do-good "guides" and "experts" at Glenmore , most are inexperienced Englishers barely in their 20s.
very helpful and eas to understand video
Awesome info Thank you
Gracias por compartir ¡¡
thanks for details and slow motion))
I will never need any of this information.
Thanks!
yeah, but if you dig your crampon points in hard enough, you can do some great somersaults.
thank for video.a lot.i just think hillay step or bottleneck.many climber are over,exausted.from 7/8000meter and 15/20kg rucksac,is hard to made this.but not all case.thank
We did this with crampons on at your winter skills course in 2010 with lots of emphasis on keeping your crampons up. IIRC keeping your crampons out of contact with the ground was one of the things we were trying to learn by practising with them on. It makes sense to me that you would want to find out that your feet need to come up during training on a modest slope rather than at that instant of entering a cartwheel when trying to employee these techniques for real for the first time.
Did you find that an unacceptable number of injuries were happening when you did the training with crampons on and were forced to switch?
Thanks
Nice video , thanks.
I think this is probably something you want to train into your muscle memory so there is no thinking involved when you need to do it.
How Mallory was killed (ice axe to forehead). Made me wonder if his leg was broken in a fall or because of not keeping his feet up during arrest
Great guide, but isnt it better to still train this with a leash and crampons as it will be the same in a real slide?
Not if you don't want to risk damaging your ankles putting you out of action for a good amount of time, and perhaps even causing long term damage, stopping you from achieving what you were training for in the first place
I just want to know where do the mountaineers take their training while coming to climb mountains in Pakistan? And what tools play the most important role beside oxygen erc,, Rope or crampons?
This is great. Thanks a ton!!
Really nice. Thanks for sharing that. Can you think of a good place to practice this technique in Brecon Beacons?
idk when ill need to know this but at least now i know