Oh, one last thing. Just took the KLR out for a run on the highway. Replacing the 15T for a 16T is like getting a sixth gear. I was going 120km/hr and I could see what was in my mirrors CLEARLY for the first time without all the vibration. Amazing. If you're reading this then don't walk but run and do this mod.
I took it for a first ride yesterday and it lowers the rpm by about 600rpm; which makes it a whole lot smoother and better for cruising longer distance. I think its one of the best mods I've done yet :D
I got a KLR-650 Gent 3 2023 2 months ago and was a little afraid of messing with it, but following your video I was able to exchange the sprockets from 15 to 16 tooth. What a difference! Now I cruise the freeway at lower RPM's. Even though the video is 11 years old, most of what you show still applies for Gen 3. Hardest part was releasing the nut, but watching how you did it I was able to release it. Thanks for the video.
Just a tip for anyone trying to flatten that washer. Once you use a screwdriver or something to get it started you can drive the 27mm socket on to the nut with a hammer and flatten it out the rest of the way.
Thank you Sir. Even though its been 4 years since you posted this, it totally helped me do my sprocket. Your video is the most concise, yet the most detailed and easy to understand.
Your explanation was detailed unlike other videos. Well done. Good tip. I measured the distance from the centre of the axle bolt to a common large nut towards the front of the bike (it's on both sides). It was the same distance. Then I measured the distance from the silver base plate (where the 2 nut tighteners are) out to the end of the bike frame. It was the same distance. So I know the tire is on level.
I've got about 12k miles on my 2011 KLR650 with the 16 tooth countershaft sprocket. On the highway 75MPH ~ 5000RPM in 5th gear. Its not sluggish off the line either, but yes I rev the engine and use the clutch a little more to get the thing rolling, (I weigh 220LBS, so I like to think it's not the bike's fault). I almost never ride on the dirt, its either city streets or highway and I am very happy with the 16 tooth gear. Thanks for the good video!
Why in the world would anybody stick with a KLR for strictly city and highway riding? What a shame. I hope he's swapped for a street bike since this comment. Better yet, started riding dirt.
Well-made video Kenny, nice work. I have done this mod on my 2010 and I agree it is very worthwhile for predominantly highway / freeway / commuting riders.
I just ordered a 16t for mine. This video is very helpful in knowing what to expect although I'm not as "dodgy" as you so I'll be using a small chisel instead of a 3/8th drive extension. :) Thanks for the help!
Great video Kenny. I did the OEM 15T countershaft replacement with the 16Ton my 2014 KLR 650 recently. The output torque degradation is minimum and the rpm drop was good enough to make the highway speeds riding more tolerable than before. Some of the readers concerned about clutch premature wear because of the change should not be concerned at all and as to low speed degradation is just a matter of upping the engine speed or shifting to a lower gear. I particularly experienced none of the above issues. Once again, great video!
nice video! love the time lapse; you show details without wasting time! Doing the 705 kit myself after a melt down on the way from New Mexico to Louisiana, and a 16T front sprocket. had to buy a new head off ebay and get my pants pulled down, oil ring issues; and starved my right side exhaust journal before I saw smoke and stopped. damn Kawasaki (mines an 08'--oil issues known of since day one,, died at 10,800 miles) for machining the head for the journal area! Nothing to replace there if you melt down metal. had 1.6 quarts still in it; so beware of running low on non 685 and 705 kits... I checked every 50 miles while resting ass on the voyage back and 37 miles into a run it went to seize up, pulled clutch and it locked hard. Fun tip, once you've ridden enough to toast that front sprocket, just pull the rear axle--and slide forward, no messing with balancing the adjustment nuts on same size front sprocket replacements! How do you keep that motor so clean? wonderful looking bike! -Chris
Thanks, Im glad that it helped and was somewhat coherent ;D Form a standstill acceleration does slow a bit, but not really make an overall difference. As for at speed acceleration is actually much the same. I think this mod is one of the best yet!
hey kenny just wanted to say thanks for the maintenance videos, just started to do work myself and have watched all of your videos on the shit i dont know how to do like adjusting valves and sprockets
Also you should always check the slack with and without passenger, or else it could be super tight when you sit on the bike, stressing the secondary driveshaft bearing :)
That's a great howto tutorial ;) The only thing I'd do differently, is the locking the rear wheel by engaging 1st gear instead of using rear brake. It is only a matter of ergonomics, I think this way there are less chances to heart your back!
I tried this. The friction on the sprocket nut is enough to turn the engine. The only time I didn't have to hold the brake was when doing the tire hub. I just finished this myself about 15 minutes ago. I regret not getting one of my kids to hop on and hold the brake for me.
Nicely done video. I will do mine as the same as yours with a 2014 Kawasaki 650 KLR. Maybe I will run a little less RPM's at highway speeds. Great video with great information!
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to get that washer smashed back down onto the nut. Just insert it into the shaft, and it'll allow you to pry down the washer MUCH cleaner/better than trying to hammer it down flat with a screw driver or ratchet extension.
I thought you might show the correct side of sprocket,which side goes out etc.The replacement is dramatically different than the stock one..how does one know which side goes out??
You forgot to show them the Timing marks, and how to line them up! LOL!!!! KLR's are some Hi-Tech Equipment!! And oh yeah Well done! I changed mine to the 16T at 2500 Miles!Fantastic Improvement!
the manual and the sticker on the swing arm specify adjusting whilst on the side stand, but a lot of other adventure bikes say to do it on the centre stand.
Great video. I was looking for a video on how to change the sprocket but couldn't find anything good until now. How is the acceleration from a standstill with the 16t compared with stock?
Hi, i have a KLR 2013 that need the sprocket to be exchanged, the question is 15T or 16T, and what brand should i get?, what brand is the one shown on video?, thank you
I just bought a used 2006 KLR 650, great bike enjoyed your video. I will have to buy all the tools to change mine from 13T to 16T before my 800 mile long ride :) Could you suggest a list of all the tools I should buy to carry on the bike on such a long trip? I don't want to buy a garage toolkit right now since I am moving cities.
Right,as long as your riding miles and miles a 16T is ok.But as soon as you get into stop and go,with steep hills,it starts affecting take off,I felt I had to slip the clutch to much on steep take offs.I went back to the 15T,the 16T did feel better at cruising.
I just put a lock that fits the holes on the rear rotor perfectly then gently roll the wheel around until the lock gently touches the caliper and gently start applying pressure on my breaker bar.havent ever hurt anything doing it that way.tighen the same way.then take my lock out of the rotor and go.
It lowers the RPM by about 500-600 rpm over all, however after changing back to 15t after it wore out I can say that 16t isn't the greatest for use under 55km/h (35mp/h)
Gavin Massong thanks for watching! I would probably recommend running the stock chain slack, however I have heard of people running slightly more slack than usual, due to bigger carrying loads. Personally I run about 45mm slack with a 16t.
Thanks for the video. Question: the factory sprocket had rubber on it. when i put on the new sprocket there seems to be play 1/16 (1mm) in and out on the shaft. no matter how much i tighten it. I noticed ur new sprocket had a bit of a lip on the outside... any suggestions. Thanks!
Make sure you have both washers on either side of the sprocket, if I remember correctly it should have them. Check your old sprocket, the washer may be stuck to it. Otherwise you may have the wrong sprocket, a lot of them look the same, but are slightly different. Usually the rubber won't come on after market sprockets, it's just for sound deadening. All the best man!
HI mate, here are a short list of tool you should take on tour, If you are interested in a general touring list that I use just PM me. Spanner Set 8,10,13,14,15mm Allen Key Set 2-10mm Puncture Kit (tyre levers, pump/co2 canisters & Spare tubes) Small Torch Magnet Small Socket Set w/ extension 8-15mm Pliers/Cutters Screw Drivers - Small flat, Phillips & flat Wire Small tube of Grease
I'm guessing you were using a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar on the sprocket nut? I bought both 3/4 inch and inch drives. A 27 mm socket on the inch drive loosens the bigger nuts without having to throw your weight at them. Like I've seen many guys do using smaller drive bars, which results in the bike rocking, or the sockets slipping off. The weight of the big drive ratchet does much of the loosening work for you. Like twisting butter.
Stock sprocket is 15 teeth. You can go up to 16 like in this video and you will notice that you bike will have lower rpms on the highway. That will allow you to cruise at highway speeds with less vibration. You can also drop down to a 14t sprocket which will give you better acceleration down low, but will cost you at higher speeds.
Strath09 thanks one more question tho. Let's say u had a 450 quad. Would u add more or less teeth for the front and the rear. I just don't really know if I wanna hit higher speeds or faster acceleration.
You still seem to be on the learning phase :) Is this your first big bike that you've done the sprocket change to? I just noticed the sprocket removal part where you said that after trying to get the sprocket off you realized that it's easier to roll the chain off the rear first. Anyway good tutorial :)
Iv been running a 16T Front Sproket on my KLR for 4 years now, great mod, 110km/h all day without issue for 4 years now.
Oh, one last thing. Just took the KLR out for a run on the highway. Replacing the 15T for a 16T is like getting a sixth gear. I was going 120km/hr and I could see what was in my mirrors CLEARLY for the first time without all the vibration. Amazing. If you're reading this then don't walk but run and do this mod.
I took it for a first ride yesterday and it lowers the rpm by about 600rpm; which makes it a whole lot smoother and better for cruising longer distance. I think its one of the best mods I've done yet :D
I got a KLR-650 Gent 3 2023 2 months ago and was a little afraid of messing with it, but following your video I was able to exchange the sprockets from 15 to 16 tooth. What a difference! Now I cruise the freeway at lower RPM's. Even though the video is 11 years old, most of what you show still applies for Gen 3. Hardest part was releasing the nut, but watching how you did it I was able to release it. Thanks for the video.
Hey Kenny... Thanks for all the KLR650 videos. So far, you have the most comprehensive videos
Just a tip for anyone trying to flatten that washer. Once you use a screwdriver or something to get it started you can drive the 27mm socket on to the nut with a hammer and flatten it out the rest of the way.
Thank you Sir. Even though its been 4 years since you posted this, it totally helped me do my sprocket. Your video is the most concise, yet the most detailed and easy to understand.
I did this mod, and love it. At low speeds it is barely noticeable but on the highway it is a lot less vibration.
How slow does the 16 tooth sprocket allow you to go in first before you have to feather the clutch?
Your explanation was detailed unlike other videos. Well done. Good tip. I measured the distance from the centre of the axle bolt to a common large nut towards the front of the bike (it's on both sides). It was the same distance. Then I measured the distance from the silver base plate (where the 2 nut tighteners are) out to the end of the bike frame. It was the same distance. So I know the tire is on level.
61 years old Just got my KLR Thanks for the videos!!!
One up ya mate. Just got a 2016 in digital camo. I just retired because I didn’t want to put up with Covid at 64 yo. Great bikes they are.
I've got about 12k miles on my 2011 KLR650 with the 16 tooth countershaft sprocket. On the highway 75MPH ~ 5000RPM in 5th gear. Its not sluggish off the line either, but yes I rev the engine and use the clutch a little more to get the thing rolling, (I weigh 220LBS, so I like to think it's not the bike's fault). I almost never ride on the dirt, its either city streets or highway and I am very happy with the 16 tooth gear. Thanks for the good video!
Why in the world would anybody stick with a KLR for strictly city and highway riding? What a shame. I hope he's swapped for a street bike since this comment. Better yet, started riding dirt.
Buying a Klr for highway is a whacky thing.
Well-made video Kenny, nice work. I have done this mod on my 2010 and I agree it is very worthwhile for predominantly highway / freeway / commuting riders.
I saw several videos and this covers all details. Thanks
I just ordered a 16t for mine. This video is very helpful in knowing what to expect although I'm not as "dodgy" as you so I'll be using a small chisel instead of a 3/8th drive extension. :) Thanks for the help!
Nice work. No bike stand or fancy tools, just what your average bro has in his garage.
Huge help when I was doing my own and wasn't sure I was going about it right. Thanks!
Just did my sprocket upgrade after viewing your video... Best mod I've made to the KLR so far. Thanks!
Great video Kenny. I did the OEM 15T countershaft replacement with the 16Ton my 2014 KLR 650 recently. The output torque degradation is minimum and the rpm drop was good enough to make the highway speeds riding more tolerable than before. Some of the readers concerned about clutch premature wear because of the change should not be concerned at all and as to low speed degradation is just a matter of upping the engine speed or shifting to a lower gear. I particularly experienced none of the above issues. Once again, great video!
Great to hear! It really is a great mod, and I've never had any issues with my setup either. Thanks for watching!
nice video! love the time lapse; you show details without wasting time! Doing the 705 kit myself after a melt down on the way from New Mexico to Louisiana, and a 16T front sprocket. had to buy a new head off ebay and get my pants pulled down, oil ring issues; and starved my right side exhaust journal before I saw smoke and stopped. damn Kawasaki (mines an 08'--oil issues known of since day one,, died at 10,800 miles) for machining the head for the journal area! Nothing to replace there if you melt down metal. had 1.6 quarts still in it; so beware of running low on non 685 and 705 kits... I checked every 50 miles while resting ass on the voyage back and 37 miles into a run it went to seize up, pulled clutch and it locked hard. Fun tip, once you've ridden enough to toast that front sprocket, just pull the rear axle--and slide forward, no messing with balancing the adjustment nuts on same size front sprocket replacements! How do you keep that motor so clean? wonderful looking bike!
-Chris
Just did this, cheers for the video, original sprocket was a pain to get off, had to soak it in wd40 and use a claw hammer to tap it from behind
Thanks, Im glad that it helped and was somewhat coherent ;D
Form a standstill acceleration does slow a bit, but not really make an overall difference.
As for at speed acceleration is actually much the same.
I think this mod is one of the best yet!
hey kenny just wanted to say thanks for the maintenance videos, just started to do work myself and have watched all of your videos on the shit i dont know how to do like adjusting valves and sprockets
This is actually a well done step by step....well done.
Great Video, very informative. I just replaced my chain and both sprockets after viewing your vid. Went with the 16T front. Thanks!
Very concise I appreciate you and feel confident doing this on my own
Also you should always check the slack with and without passenger, or else it could be super tight when you sit on the bike, stressing the secondary driveshaft bearing :)
That's a great howto tutorial ;)
The only thing I'd do differently, is the locking the rear wheel by engaging 1st gear instead of using rear brake.
It is only a matter of ergonomics, I think this way there are less chances to heart your back!
I tried this. The friction on the sprocket nut is enough to turn the engine. The only time I didn't have to hold the brake was when doing the tire hub. I just finished this myself about 15 minutes ago. I regret not getting one of my kids to hop on and hold the brake for me.
gr8 video thanks for all the small details
Nicely done video. I will do mine as the same as yours with a 2014 Kawasaki 650 KLR. Maybe I will run a little less RPM's at highway speeds. Great video with great information!
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to get that washer smashed back down onto the nut. Just insert it into the shaft, and it'll allow you to pry down the washer MUCH cleaner/better than trying to hammer it down flat with a screw driver or ratchet extension.
I thought you might show the correct side of sprocket,which side goes out etc.The replacement is dramatically different than the stock one..how does one know which side goes out??
Alan, I have done this mod and can confirm it will improve your mileage a little - maybe 5% improvement.
You forgot to show them the Timing marks, and how to line them up! LOL!!!! KLR's are some Hi-Tech Equipment!! And oh yeah Well done! I changed mine to the 16T at 2500 Miles!Fantastic Improvement!
Excellent step by step.
Wow, sorry to hear of your mishap, good thing nothing was damaged including yourself!
Very well made video. You "How To" videos make your channel a must-subscribe to.
Nice video, and good job mate.
Very helpful and great video!! Thank you
the manual and the sticker on the swing arm specify adjusting whilst on the side stand, but a lot of other adventure bikes say to do it on the centre stand.
You will need a larger socket for this to work. I've used this technique on other "washers" but on the KLR that part of the nut is either 28 or 29 mm.
Awesome, glad to hear that it all went well. And yeah by far the best, cheap mod out there :D
Hahaha, precision piece of technology indeed!
But yeah i'm really enjoying the extra tooth, greg for longer distance cruising.
When changing teeth do you have to change pinion #? Ordered a stock chain (525x120) and 16t-38t ratio and stock ratio was 15t-42t.
Great video. I was looking for a video on how to change the sprocket but couldn't find anything good until now. How is the acceleration from a standstill with the 16t compared with stock?
Hi, i have a KLR 2013 that need the sprocket to be exchanged, the question is 15T or 16T, and what brand should i get?, what brand is the one shown on video?, thank you
I just bought a used 2006 KLR 650, great bike enjoyed your video. I will have to buy all the tools to change mine from 13T to 16T before my 800 mile long ride :) Could you suggest a list of all the tools I should buy to carry on the bike on such a long trip? I don't want to buy a garage toolkit right now since I am moving cities.
Good job. That bolt is a huge pain in the ass.
Right,as long as your riding miles and miles a 16T is ok.But as soon as you get into stop and go,with steep hills,it starts affecting take off,I felt I had to slip the clutch to much on steep take offs.I went back to the 15T,the 16T did feel better at cruising.
Jefar, stock gearing you will be doing 4200rpm in 5th gear at 100kmh. After doing this mod you will be doing ~4000rpm at 100kmh.
Hey bro, my sprocket came with a thick washer, am I supposed to use that? I have noticed that the oem has a thick rubber and the aftermarket does not
I just put a lock that fits the holes on the rear rotor perfectly then gently roll the wheel around until the lock gently touches the caliper and gently start applying pressure on my breaker bar.havent ever hurt anything doing it that way.tighen the same way.then take my lock out of the rotor and go.
It lowers the RPM by about 500-600 rpm over all, however after changing back to 15t after it wore out I can say that 16t isn't the greatest for use under 55km/h (35mp/h)
We love it.
Thanks for the video. What chain slack measurement would you recommend with this set-up?
Gavin Massong thanks for watching! I would probably recommend running the stock chain slack, however I have heard of people running slightly more slack than usual, due to bigger carrying loads. Personally I run about 45mm slack with a 16t.
I fit a 16T and now it seems the chain is rubbing on the sprocket cover, is this normal?
Did you changed the sprocket more BIG .I will hope your answer
Thanks for the video. Question: the factory sprocket had rubber on it. when i put on the new sprocket there seems to be play 1/16 (1mm) in and out on the shaft. no matter how much i tighten it. I noticed ur new sprocket had a bit of a lip on the outside... any suggestions.
Thanks!
Make sure you have both washers on either side of the sprocket, if I remember correctly it should have them. Check your old sprocket, the washer may be stuck to it. Otherwise you may have the wrong sprocket, a lot of them look the same, but are slightly different. Usually the rubber won't come on after market sprockets, it's just for sound deadening.
All the best man!
good video
Greath vid!
HI mate, here are a short list of tool you should take on tour, If you are interested in a general touring list that I use just PM me.
Spanner Set 8,10,13,14,15mm
Allen Key Set 2-10mm
Puncture Kit (tyre levers, pump/co2 canisters & Spare tubes)
Small Torch
Magnet
Small Socket Set w/ extension 8-15mm
Pliers/Cutters
Screw Drivers - Small flat, Phillips & flat
Wire
Small tube of Grease
Love it.
LOL, oh don't worry there was quite a bit of swearing off camera and clever editing to conceal my obscenities :P Thanks for watching!
I'm guessing you were using a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar on the sprocket nut? I bought both 3/4 inch and inch drives. A 27 mm socket on the inch drive loosens the bigger nuts without having to throw your weight at them. Like I've seen many guys do using smaller drive bars, which results in the bike rocking, or the sockets slipping off. The weight of the big drive ratchet does much of the loosening work for you. Like twisting butter.
What did this bring your RPMs down to on the highway at 100kph? Thanks for the video.
at 100 km/hr, I was under 4000 rpm.
thanks!!
So to get more speed and less tourqe i wanna change the drive gear(and chain) on my 1980 GS550 L?
What's everyone running size wise? I'm curious. I have a 16 and 45 tooth. Should I change the 45 to a 43 to run at highway? Or keep the 45 on??
whats the rpm at riding at 90mph or 140kph
I can tell you that 120 km/hr was under 4500 rpm.
so how is the 16t off road? does it burn your clutch
Will this mod result in better mileage?
Im not trying to be mean in any kind of way. I was just curious . Did you put that sprocket on backwards?
Yes he did!
No he didn't
Awesome job!
No he didn't the writing on sprockets ALWAYS face out! Dah.
Yes he did
Better for highway bring rpm down less stress on the donk I love tall gearing can take of in second gear ⚙️
Do you need more teeth or less teeth for speed. Got a yfz just asking for more power
Jake Villa more teeth will give more speed. But less torque
Stock sprocket is 15 teeth. You can go up to 16 like in this video and you will notice that you bike will have lower rpms on the highway. That will allow you to cruise at highway speeds with less vibration. You can also drop down to a 14t sprocket which will give you better acceleration down low, but will cost you at higher speeds.
Strath09 thanks one more question tho. Let's say u had a 450 quad. Would u add more or less teeth for the front and the rear. I just don't really know if I wanna hit higher speeds or faster acceleration.
You still seem to be on the learning phase :) Is this your first big bike that you've done the sprocket change to?
I just noticed the sprocket removal part where you said that after trying to get the sprocket off you realized that it's easier to roll the chain off the rear first.
Anyway good tutorial :)
You're supposed to tighten the chain to specs with the bike elevated.
I have a 1995 KLR 650...does anybody know if I can put a 16T on it?
Yeah it should work just the same, I have seen it done before on a pre 2008 before.
Awesome. I did however order the stock 15t just because I was a little unsure. My KLR is my first bike and only vehicle cant have anything go wrong!
BTW Tq setting for the plastic chain/sprocket cover is 9in/lbs
Hi, have anyone used a 17t on a klr 650? if any, please let me know if it is possible and results, thanks a lot in advanced.
Its certainly doable, but I would imagine that it might make the bike a little slow of the line. 16t should be plenty enough for highway use.
kennyraceboy Thanks a lot.
I didn't even think they made a 13t. I've only heard of 14,15,16 and 17
Nice vid man but that bike is WAY too clean!
Should have prevent the washer in a new place just a bit to get the screwdriver under.
i've done something similar but with a cbr. It happens every now and again.
That's not a spanner wrench, that is a regular open face wrench.
Yeah right. My sprocket won't budge to save my life. Fuck
Get rid of that pin and replace it with a hitch pin of similar size. That cotter pin is a pain and its technically not re usable
What sort of difference does the 16 t make in reality?
aaaarrrrgghh!"