Thanks for the video. This is a great series. What do you know about whether a 2-by needs to be installed on the flat either above or below a header? I believe it's sometimes called a head jamb when installed beneath. I'm a little confused by the portal frame drawings I've seen.
I'd have to check the portal frame diagrams in the IRC again but on the bottom it's only to facilitate trim installation but not necessary structurally. For the top you want at least a single top plate (like my 8ft door is) to hold the header in the same plane as the wall.
Thank you for this video. I'm in the process of enclosing my carport and this was helpful. I did have a few questions though. The 16ft garage opening, those 2x that you used are 1.5" thick right? So 3 of them gets you to 4.5" inches thick so what did you use for the final inch? Did you just slap 1/2" plywood on either side or did you double stack them on the inside? Also, what wireless microphone did you use? It sounds nice and crisp. Thanks again for the video, i appreciate it.
16' opening is (3) 16"x1-3/4" LVLs. By the time you stack them together, the inconsistencies builds them up to 5.5" or the same width as the 2x6 wall. For a 2x header, it is recommended you laminate the header and place at the outside of the wall, then fur in with whatever you need on the inside. I sandwiched my 8' header but read this isn't best practice after the fact, since the boards don't act as a single beam. Mine is in a gable wall which is less critical than the eave walls so I'm not worried. Mic is a DJI Mic
@@MasonDixonAcres Thank for you this explanation. So the beam itself is exactly 16' long or is the beam longer than that? Because I thought the opening itself had to be 16' so the beam would be longer to sit on the jack studs right? Or am I misunderstanding that part? Then, I'll need 3 jack studs on each side plus the king stud or is it 2 Jack's and 1 king for a total or 3? Sorry for so many questions, but this is the part that's been confusing the heck outta me. I'm able to do everything else, but can't figure out the double garage door part. Thanks for the mic info too. It sounds really crisp even at a distance.
Appreciate you showing how it really is. DIY is always a learning experience and you’re doing a great job!
Yes! There are always things to be learned along the way. Thanks for watching!
I’m learning a lot from you. I like that when you mess up you don’t edit them out. Very nice job!
Glad the videos are helpful. Thank you for following along!
My house has a bedroom above a 4 car garage. Does this mean that the headers have to be even thicker to support the extra weight?
Won’t the nails you used to install the insulation keep you from sandwiching the 2 headers together, because they may be protruding the insulation?
Nope. The simpson screws pull everything together
Thanks for the video. This is a great series. What do you know about whether a 2-by needs to be installed on the flat either above or below a header? I believe it's sometimes called a head jamb when installed beneath. I'm a little confused by the portal frame drawings I've seen.
I'd have to check the portal frame diagrams in the IRC again but on the bottom it's only to facilitate trim installation but not necessary structurally. For the top you want at least a single top plate (like my 8ft door is) to hold the header in the same plane as the wall.
Thank you for this video. I'm in the process of enclosing my carport and this was helpful. I did have a few questions though. The 16ft garage opening, those 2x that you used are 1.5" thick right? So 3 of them gets you to 4.5" inches thick so what did you use for the final inch? Did you just slap 1/2" plywood on either side or did you double stack them on the inside?
Also, what wireless microphone did you use? It sounds nice and crisp. Thanks again for the video, i appreciate it.
16' opening is (3) 16"x1-3/4" LVLs. By the time you stack them together, the inconsistencies builds them up to 5.5" or the same width as the 2x6 wall. For a 2x header, it is recommended you laminate the header and place at the outside of the wall, then fur in with whatever you need on the inside. I sandwiched my 8' header but read this isn't best practice after the fact, since the boards don't act as a single beam. Mine is in a gable wall which is less critical than the eave walls so I'm not worried. Mic is a DJI Mic
@@MasonDixonAcres Thank for you this explanation. So the beam itself is exactly 16' long or is the beam longer than that? Because I thought the opening itself had to be 16' so the beam would be longer to sit on the jack studs right? Or am I misunderstanding that part? Then, I'll need 3 jack studs on each side plus the king stud or is it 2 Jack's and 1 king for a total or 3? Sorry for so many questions, but this is the part that's been confusing the heck outta me. I'm able to do everything else, but can't figure out the double garage door part.
Thanks for the mic info too. It sounds really crisp even at a distance.
Board looked like a goat head but then when ya said tounge saw that to
goat head 😂
Spray tacky glue might work
for what?
@@MasonDixonAcres when you were trying to put Styrofoam could of glued in place and then put up outer board
Ours is 18ft
Mine are all termite eaten, nobody will install a new garage door until I replace the header, jack and king studs.
Yikes, well first things first solve that termite issue and they are usually caused by water intrusion
Have a magnet
Would have been handy for picking up those nails..
-Alex
horrible place for that creepy face knott. Those things crumble right out and degrade strength.