Thank you for watching our channel! Sorry for the late response. 2x4 studs - 2 nails 2x6 - 3 nails 2x8 - 4 and so on Short cripple studs only need two, but often just get matched to regular studs. Nailing trusses is only temporary and not structural. You either need hurricane screws, h2.5, or some other hardware to provide adequate hold down requirements. Nailing trusses is temporary, we do 2-3 on each side (trying to enter through the metal plate). The more nails you put in, the weaker the truss heal (which is not good). Stay tuned to the channel, we will be going over these things in depth.
Hi, Jaden. I recently discovered your videos and I enjoy watching them. I've never done any framing with trusses. Everything I've done has used dimensional lumber, but it looks like the process is very similar. I have a question in regard to getting the trusses plumb before fastening them. Would it work as well to use a torpedo level to check each one for plumb rather than measuring them? Also, do the trusses require some type of cross-bracing or blocking at regular intervals between the spans? If they do, what do you use? Thanks for the good videos!
Hello Rodger! Thank you for the support, we are glad to be useful! A level would work as well, although I recommend a level long enough to go from the bottom to top of each truss. Sometimes the heels are pretty jacked up. Measuring is the quicker method and it achieves the same result. In these videos I am going very slow in order to educate people, it is normally much faster. For example: when using the measuring method, you can mark your rim boards out on the ground (with proper length and spacing). Then all you have to do is follow the lines when you are nailing them on. Also as far as cross bracing - please see our strong back video for the floor trusses. In our area this is the only bracing required (other than any engineering).
Jaden -- Has your engineered FLOOR Truss Designer ever specified an O.C. layout different than the 19.2 O.C.? Just curious -- Thanks! Richard aka Retired Person
Yes. I have seen 16/19.2/24. Depending on the project. 24” usually requires 1 1/8” subfloor. Occasionally 12” O/C in certain areas of the house in order to support excessive weight like wood stoves, granite accents, and rock features above.
@@LevelUpFraming Jaden -- Thanks once again! Well of course, my home will be designed and approved by a structural engineer -- and the Floor and Roof Trusses throughout will be designed by a certified truss firm. I will demand the highest quality materials and the loads will be overrated to exceed the minimum calculated design. As for spacing, that too will be left to the determination of the engineers. This will be a unique build. The floor system will be a hydronic heated subfloor from Warmboard® which is an 1-1/8" plywood subfloor -- and the foundation is a Pre-Cast Basement from Envirocast®. I have a detailed drawing showing the section of the foundation and the floor truss -- I would love to share it with you -- I could email you the drawing if you wish -- just give me an email. Richard (Note: I have a different design for the RIM Board location you may want to comment on?)
Right! I wondered that as well when I was learning how to do it. In combination with the bottom plate, the 3/4 subfloor, and the exterior sheeting nailed into the rim board; it works out to have the same or greater strength as the double top plate. That being said, if you do have point loads coming down through the wall, they need to be directly blocked under to transfer the load down through the floor trusses. We always make sure those blocks fit tight to the bottom of the subfloor and the bottom of the rim board.
Thankyou ,great stuff.👍👍
I would like to see you nailing protocols. EX. how many for each stud, cripple, truss, ect. Thanks!
Thank you for watching our channel! Sorry for the late response.
2x4 studs - 2 nails
2x6 - 3 nails
2x8 - 4 and so on
Short cripple studs only need two, but often just get matched to regular studs.
Nailing trusses is only temporary and not structural. You either need hurricane screws, h2.5, or some other hardware to provide adequate hold down requirements.
Nailing trusses is temporary, we do 2-3 on each side (trying to enter through the metal plate). The more nails you put in, the weaker the truss heal (which is not good).
Stay tuned to the channel, we will be going over these things in depth.
Code states how many and also size
Most people over do it.
Hi, Jaden. I recently discovered your videos and I enjoy watching them. I've never done any framing with trusses. Everything I've done has used dimensional lumber, but it looks like the process is very similar. I have a question in regard to getting the trusses plumb before fastening them. Would it work as well to use a torpedo level to check each one for plumb rather than measuring them? Also, do the trusses require some type of cross-bracing or blocking at regular intervals between the spans? If they do, what do you use? Thanks for the good videos!
Hello Rodger! Thank you for the support, we are glad to be useful!
A level would work as well, although I recommend a level long enough to go from the bottom to top of each truss. Sometimes the heels are pretty jacked up.
Measuring is the quicker method and it achieves the same result. In these videos I am going very slow in order to educate people, it is normally much faster.
For example: when using the measuring method, you can mark your rim boards out on the ground (with proper length and spacing). Then all you have to do is follow the lines when you are nailing them on.
Also as far as cross bracing - please see our strong back video for the floor trusses. In our area this is the only bracing required (other than any engineering).
@@LevelUpFraming I like it! Thank you for replying. I watched the strong back video. That looks very straight-forward.
Jaden -- Has your engineered FLOOR Truss Designer ever specified an O.C. layout different than the 19.2 O.C.? Just curious -- Thanks! Richard aka Retired Person
Yes. I have seen 16/19.2/24. Depending on the project. 24” usually requires 1 1/8” subfloor. Occasionally 12” O/C in certain areas of the house in order to support excessive weight like wood stoves, granite accents, and rock features above.
@@LevelUpFraming Jaden -- Thanks once again! Well of course, my home will be designed and approved by a structural engineer -- and the Floor and Roof Trusses throughout will be designed by a certified truss firm. I will demand the highest quality materials and the loads will be overrated to exceed the minimum calculated design. As for spacing, that too will be left to the determination of the engineers. This will be a unique build. The floor system will be a hydronic heated subfloor from Warmboard® which is an 1-1/8" plywood subfloor -- and the foundation is a Pre-Cast Basement from Envirocast®. I have a detailed drawing showing the section of the foundation and the floor truss -- I would love to share it with you -- I could email you the drawing if you wish -- just give me an email. Richard (Note: I have a different design for the RIM Board location you may want to comment on?)
Maybe its just me but there's a whole lot of gaps I see where the load is obviously going to be supported by nails, not the 2x4.
Right! I wondered that as well when I was learning how to do it.
In combination with the bottom plate, the 3/4 subfloor, and the exterior sheeting nailed into the rim board; it works out to have the same or greater strength as the double top plate.
That being said, if you do have point loads coming down through the wall, they need to be directly blocked under to transfer the load down through the floor trusses. We always make sure those blocks fit tight to the bottom of the subfloor and the bottom of the rim board.