Great video! Thank you so much! I did this a couple of years ago but I did not know that you could utilize the engine cradle to brace the bar for the special tool.
Excellent vid, thank you for the calm narrative, somehow it makes it all seem easier ) I did this b4 on a m103, have to do it on the m112 now, but dont have the tool, may have to weld one together lol
@@masood-tv Quick question. The part behind the fan with the four bolts what is that called? I have a 2002 E430Benz and that part is loose when you move the fan which caused it to hit into my raditor. But noone knows what the name of that part is. I ordered a Fan clutcth but that's the part on the front. Whats the part on the back? Really need to know thanks so much.
@masood-tv Thanks wish I had got this answer earlier. I wasted money on a fan clutch that I don't need. Yeah I had a few people look at it and though some bands had went bad. For the whole time it was the water pump. Prayfuly next week I can get that. I think I will also need a radiator.
In your "short" presentation you say that an harmonic balancer going bad could have catastrophic consequences. I guess that its function is to reduce vibrations generated by pulleys and strap that it drives. What is the symptom of it going bad, does it go bad through rubber delamination and what would be the consequences?
Hi Michel, it could cause damage to the belt and then other pulleys...worst case break the belt and therefore cause auto steering failure and accidents....
The outer ring can fly off and break the fan and coolant hoses causing engine to overheat. It's just not worth the risk. If it's old then change it. I'm making a video about this. Masood your videos are amazing and inspired me to create a channel on UA-cam also
Masood what size attachment did you use inside the square hole in the CTA balancer holder. I cannot find one that fits perfectly like yours . Please assist if you can . Thanks
@@masood-tv hi thanks for the response. Is there a specific brand you used that has the exact square fitment of that square hole on the holder?. I ask because I have a half inch attachment however it is loose when inserting into the square hole which prevents me from obtaining a proper fit for my bar
My first attempt to remove the bolt has failed. I've used the CTA Mercedes lock tool, a 30 in 1/2 breaker bar with a 24 in steel tube extension and my 5' 8" x 145 lbs couldn't do it - and it would be useless to do with more leverage, because of my height. Some use impact wrenches on crankshaft bolts and CTA even offers special heavy sockets for that purpose. I've never used an impact wrench on a spinning shaft. Does one need to lock the pulley in this case? And could this damage the engine? Your opinion , thoughts and experience on this.
Hi Michel, you can absolutely use an impact gun, but you would have to remove the fan first to make room for the gun. I have a video on that also. Spray it with some penetrating fluid, leave it overnight or for a time and try again. I am not sure how your height will impede utilizing more leverage. Use as much leverage as possible. Look at my video again. I think I had over 5 feet of leverage easily...
@@masood-tv Thanks for your hints. Is a lock tool necessary with an impact wrench? Some say no, but the bolt being at the end of a spinning shaft, I can't see the difference than using a breaker bar...
Hi nashiniki - autohausaz.com has the vibration damper, the bolt, and the front main seal in inventory today....just checked. Go there, add your car, and search...
Thanks a lot. I followed your step but I was not sure if the depression present in crankshaft was perfectly fitted on the harmonic balancer mark or not. But I tight the 27mm bold and the harmonic balancer went all the way to its position and Serpentine belt was perfectly fitted. Even if the car running fine without any noise, I am still not sure if the depression of crankshaft matched with balancer or not. So I have a question here, if the depression doesn't match, still the harmonic balancer will fit in?
Hi, the indentation or depression in the pulley must perfectly fit the tab or the protrusion on the crankshaft, or you won't be able to torque the bolt.and the pulley won't turn. So, in other words, you have done it correctly.
@masood-tv thank you for reply. For cross confirmation, I opened everything again and this time the crank pully was very hard to pull. I didn't had a puller so couldn't pull it. But what I observed is, the crank pully 0.25 inch outside Crankshaft rod end position. In your case does the crankshaft pully and crankshaft rod exactly end at same point or the crank pully a little bit outside of crankshaft rod?
@torontoonline if you torqued it to spec, that is how far it goes. Alignment of the belt is another indicator of correct positioning. Also, remember the indentation goes all the way thru. I don't have the car with me to check for you, but the pulley should abut the seal.
@Robert Robbins yes، it doesn't matter, the crankshaft remains timed to the rest of the engine and is engaged by the timing belt when you remove the pulley.
Hello Masood, how's the steering column on your Mercedes? Have you noticed any clucking noise when you turn the wheel from very left to very right while parked? I have changed over a year ago all the front arms, even bolts and wheel hubs based on your videos, and it seems that it is a time to replace the column and I can't wait for your next video 😅would you mind to describe what you're going to address on your Mercedes this year?
Thanks, Igor. The car is 23 years old, so I would make videos if I can on whatever that needs fixing. I know I have to replace the upper control arms at some point. Also, the shifter was stuck at park the other day and am waiting for a part to fix that...I intend to keep it riding as smooth as the first day and so we will see what happens. My steering column is still ok though. Thanks again.
if you feel free play at rest when turning the steering wheel back and forth, it might be good to check your inner & outer tie rod ends for play, also the 4 conical rubber bushing inserts in the steering rack. can also check the adjustment between the pinion gear & rack. all good places to look before replacing the steering column.
Hello @LuckiiChris , it may seem that way. First torque it to spec. Did you? Then turn 180deg. This is the hard part. You will need leverage. See the beginning of the video for what I used as leverage. If you cannot go much beyond120degrees, don't sweat it.
@@masood-tv okay because I have it lined up and twisted the bolt all the way with my hands but now it’s veryyy difficult to tighten it the rest of the way to make the balancer flush did you have this issue? The key way is lined up properly as well
@@masood-tv okay so I added lube but am still experiencing a hard time to get the balancer flush. Is it supposed to sit flush with the seal right? Or is there supposed to be a gap between?
Hello, Im from over seas, but just find you channel. I have a m112 engine (clk 320) and the pulley at the left (looking in front of the car) the one with 4 bolts, how is it called?. I'm having a hard time to find it as it is getting loose in my car
@@masood-tv Indeed, I realized about that later. I'm no mechanic, how ever it was loose (my bad). Thanks any way. I'm loosing water but allready requested the spare. Do you happen to have the video to replace the water pump ?!?!
I suggest spraying this parts in cosmoline before installing (after taping the belt and crankshaft side of course). I personally use CRC SP400, but any brand works. I also use it on bolts under the car and other parts that can be affected by corrosion and they don't really get a nice coating from the factory. You'd be surprised how much that thing helps even 10 years down the line. Corrosion, rubber denaturation etc.
Warning to all: DO NOT use the suggested tool. It may work or it may break (twist and elongate the square hole). Also, even if it doesn't break, it may hold the pulley or it may not. It is too light duty for this application. Mr. Masood had success but you may not and it's not worth the risk.
Actually, the Ford tool is made of very hard steal. I know because it took quite a bit of grinding to make it fit the new pulley. The wrench may break first before the tool does. It saves a lot of money over the Benz tool. It works on some Ford trucks, so I doubt very much it would break at these torque values. I have since replaced 2 more crank pulleys with same tool, BTW.
@@masood-tv I am glad for your success but mine which is the same exact tool failed on the first use. The Taiwan made copies of the actual Mercedes tool cost 100.00 vs. the 30.00 your tool cost but it is well worth it. My wife's car will be immobile for several days so the extra money will be well worth it. I am not criticizing you or your method, just warning others of the possible failure of that particular tool.
Where did you purchase it from, and did it say anywhere where it was made? Also, was the bolt very rusty? I am asking so we can pinpoint any variances for other viewers. I am sorry you had a bad experience with yours. I am also curious how is the car immobile if it didn't crack it open?
@@masood-tv It did allow me to remove the bolt but was so damaged as to prevent reuse to install the new bolt. Further, it does not hold firmly in place vs. the method of the actual tool, which is a much better design. It was the exact same tool as you have.
can't say how much I appreciate you posting w210 content LUV IT!!
Thank you for the very nice feedback.
Cool thanks alot
You are very welcome.
Great video! Thank you so much! I did this a couple of years ago but I did not know that you could utilize the engine cradle to brace the bar for the special tool.
Thanks a lot.
Thanks man!! All your videos are “tremendously” helpful.
Thanks, Alejandro.
Excellent vid, thank you for the calm narrative, somehow it makes it all seem easier ) I did this b4 on a m103, have to do it on the m112 now, but dont have the tool, may have to weld one together lol
Thanks a lot. Yes, that would have been my next option, were it not for the Ford tool.
Thanks for this great video, it was very helpful, better than the mercedes WIS software for the visualization. Thanks buddy 👍👍👍😉
@KingNCA Thank you, my friend.
In fact, I learned a lot from you. I have the same car and my own workshop. Thank you very much
Thanks very much.
@@masood-tv Quick question. The part behind the fan with the four bolts what is that called? I have a 2002 E430Benz and that part is loose when you move the fan which caused it to hit into my raditor. But noone knows what the name of that part is. I ordered a Fan clutcth but that's the part on the front. Whats the part on the back? Really need to know thanks so much.
@@kenshinro7 do you mean the water pump?
@masood-tv Thanks wish I had got this answer earlier. I wasted money on a fan clutch that I don't need. Yeah I had a few people look at it and though some bands had went bad. For the whole time it was the water pump. Prayfuly next week I can get that. I think I will also need a radiator.
@@kenshinro7 no problem.
In your "short" presentation you say that an harmonic balancer going bad could have catastrophic consequences. I guess that its function is to reduce vibrations generated by pulleys and strap that it drives. What is the symptom of it going bad, does it go bad through rubber delamination and what would be the consequences?
Hi Michel, it could cause damage to the belt and then other pulleys...worst case break the belt and therefore cause auto steering failure and accidents....
The outer ring can fly off and break the fan and coolant hoses causing engine to overheat. It's just not worth the risk. If it's old then change it. I'm making a video about this. Masood your videos are amazing and inspired me to create a channel on UA-cam also
@@CL500MBZ Thank you. I will be sure to visit your channel.
Need to do this.on my.M275 in order to replace the water pump.
That gives me an idea of what im.getting.into.
Thanks.
Great, thanks.
I did it , I used the specific counterhold tool and a 3/4 inch breaker bar.
Fantastic. Thanks for the update.
can this washer be cause of the leak from the front main seal ?
Yes, it is not a washer. It is the front engine seal.
Any chance you could post the link to the crankshaft oil seal? The part number doesn't produce any results for me. Thank you
Hi Vincent - of course. www.autohausaz.com/pn/0239978447. It is avaiable today for around $10.
@@masood-tv thank you!
@@vincentsolito8234 my pleasure.
Very good video, I also have to change the sealant in the M112. 😊
Thanks, Luki Ami, with the right tools, it is not a difficult job.
Did mines last year great vid exactly how did it works great
Great video very understanding
@@D1RTBIK3R , thanks.
Has anyone replaced the same seal for OM 642. W211 Bluetec 3.0 Diesel? Thank you!
Excellent video. Would this also apply to the 112 in the w163 chassis? That would be a ML 320 and ML 350. I think it would.
Hi istvan, thanks. I believe so. Please read the description and match your engine to all the models I have listed.
Masood what size attachment did you use inside the square hole in the CTA balancer holder. I cannot find one that fits perfectly like yours . Please assist if you can . Thanks
@@Delly-qr6dn hi, 1/2 inch.
@@masood-tv hi thanks for the response. Is there a specific brand you used that has the exact square fitment of that square hole on the holder?. I ask because I have a half inch attachment however it is loose when inserting into the square hole which prevents me from obtaining a proper fit for my bar
@@Delly-qr6dn mine is from harbor freight...it is the smaller of their impact socket extensions in black...
@@masood-tv thank you. Greatly Appreciate you
@@Delly-qr6dn thanks.
What do the harmonic balancer have to be set to
My first attempt to remove the bolt has failed. I've used the CTA Mercedes lock tool, a 30 in 1/2 breaker bar with a 24 in steel tube extension and my 5' 8" x 145 lbs couldn't do it - and it would be useless to do with more leverage, because of my height. Some use impact wrenches on crankshaft bolts and CTA even offers special heavy sockets for that purpose. I've never used an impact wrench on a spinning shaft. Does one need to lock the pulley in this case? And could this damage the engine? Your opinion , thoughts and experience on this.
Hi Michel, you can absolutely use an impact gun, but you would have to remove the fan first to make room for the gun. I have a video on that also.
Spray it with some penetrating fluid, leave it overnight or for a time and try again. I am not sure how your height will impede utilizing more leverage. Use as much leverage as possible. Look at my video again. I think I had over 5 feet of leverage easily...
@@masood-tv Thanks for your hints. Is a lock tool necessary with an impact wrench? Some say no, but the bolt being at the end of a spinning shaft, I can't see the difference than using a breaker bar...
@@michelcroteau538 Np. No. You can leave the belt on.
@@masood-tv are you sure an impact is safe for this bolt?
@CL500MBZ absolutely.
Will the harmonic balancer holder work for 2010 Mercedes glk350 4matic ?
Hi @kristay - no, it won't.
@@masood-tv ok thank you 😊 any chance you know one that will any helpful information will be appreciated
Your best bet is to remove the bolt with a half inch impact gun.
Great video can you please provide the link I'm not getting any results thanks
Hi nashiniki - autohausaz.com has the vibration damper, the bolt, and the front main seal in inventory today....just checked. Go there, add your car, and search...
Do you have the link and part number for the seal? I have 1999 ML430 that needs a front crankshaft seal change.
Yes, I have it in 00:23 second of the video.
Thanks a lot. I followed your step but I was not sure if the depression present in crankshaft was perfectly fitted on the harmonic balancer mark or not. But I tight the 27mm bold and the harmonic balancer went all the way to its position and Serpentine belt was perfectly fitted.
Even if the car running fine without any noise, I am still not sure if the depression of crankshaft matched with balancer or not. So I have a question here, if the depression doesn't match, still the harmonic balancer will fit in?
Hi, the indentation or depression in the pulley must perfectly fit the tab or the protrusion on the crankshaft, or you won't be able to torque the bolt.and the pulley won't turn. So, in other words, you have done it correctly.
@masood-tv thank you for reply. For cross confirmation, I opened everything again and this time the crank pully was very hard to pull. I didn't had a puller so couldn't pull it. But what I observed is, the crank pully 0.25 inch outside Crankshaft rod end position. In your case does the crankshaft pully and crankshaft rod exactly end at same point or the crank pully a little bit outside of crankshaft rod?
@torontoonline if you torqued it to spec, that is how far it goes. Alignment of the belt is another indicator of correct positioning. Also, remember the indentation goes all the way thru. I don't have the car with me to check for you, but the pulley should abut the seal.
Do I have to be set to 40 degrees
Hi Robert - no.
@@masood-tv I have a 03 cl500
@Robert Robbins yes، it doesn't matter, the crankshaft remains timed to the rest of the engine and is engaged by the timing belt when you remove the pulley.
Hello Masood, how's the steering column on your Mercedes? Have you noticed any clucking noise when you turn the wheel from very left to very right while parked? I have changed over a year ago all the front arms, even bolts and wheel hubs based on your videos, and it seems that it is a time to replace the column and I can't wait for your next video 😅would you mind to describe what you're going to address on your Mercedes this year?
Thanks, Igor. The car is 23 years old, so I would make videos if I can on whatever that needs fixing. I know I have to replace the upper control arms at some point. Also, the shifter was stuck at park the other day and am waiting for a part to fix that...I intend to keep it riding as smooth as the first day and so we will see what happens. My steering column is still ok though. Thanks again.
if you feel free play at rest when turning the steering wheel back and forth, it might be good to check your inner & outer tie rod ends for play, also the 4 conical rubber bushing inserts in the steering rack. can also check the adjustment between the pinion gear & rack. all good places to look before replacing the steering column.
Hey I’m doing this job but the bolt is very tough to tighten while reinstalling the balancer did you run into this issue?
Hello @LuckiiChris , it may seem that way. First torque it to spec. Did you? Then turn 180deg. This is the hard part. You will need leverage. See the beginning of the video for what I used as leverage. If you cannot go much beyond120degrees, don't sweat it.
@@masood-tv okay because I have it lined up and twisted the bolt all the way with my hands but now it’s veryyy difficult to tighten it the rest of the way to make the balancer flush did you have this issue? The key way is lined up properly as well
@@LuckiiChris no, I didn't. Take it out all the way and reinstall but key it in first. Add some lubricant if you have to.
@@masood-tv okay so I added lube but am still experiencing a hard time to get the balancer flush. Is it supposed to sit flush with the seal right? Or is there supposed to be a gap between?
Were you able to torque it to spec first and then turn 180?
Hello, Im from over seas, but just find you channel. I have a m112 engine (clk 320) and the pulley at the left (looking in front of the car) the one with 4 bolts, how is it called?. I'm having a hard time to find it as it is getting loose in my car
Sorry for the late reply. I was traveling. I think you are referring to the water pump pulley.
@@masood-tv Indeed, I realized about that later. I'm no mechanic, how ever it was loose (my bad). Thanks any way. I'm loosing water but allready requested the spare. Do you happen to have the video to replace the water pump ?!?!
@@MatiasFFernandezJ Hi - yes, I do. It is for an M113 but very similar to your M112 at ua-cam.com/video/fSfg5fpCiSk/v-deo.html.
@@masood-tv Thanx, you are the best !!!!
@@MatiasFFernandezJ Thanks. My pleasure.
I suggest spraying this parts in cosmoline before installing (after taping the belt and crankshaft side of course). I personally use CRC SP400, but any brand works. I also use it on bolts under the car and other parts that can be affected by corrosion and they don't really get a nice coating from the factory. You'd be surprised how much that thing helps even 10 years down the line. Corrosion, rubber denaturation etc.
Good suggestion, especially for those in colder climates. Thx
Hello, do you install the same screw or do you put a new one? thank you
Hi Dante, a new one.
@@masood-tv 🙏 thank you
@@Dvdloco1 you're welcome.
These are indeed serious consequences! Also, had the engine a smoother idle after the balancer replacement?
Absolutely!
@@masood-tv Well, this improvement alone would justify the replacement. Thanks again for your support! My restoration project already owes you a lot.
Thank you,once again.
You are most welcome.
Good video and tips..thanks.
Thanks a lot.
The tool you used What is the name
I listed all the parts and tools in the beginning of the video...
thank you, sir !
You are very welcome.
Thank you
My pleasure, Hans. Danke.
Warning to all: DO NOT use the suggested tool. It may work or it may break (twist and elongate the square hole). Also, even if it doesn't break, it may hold the pulley or it may not. It is too light duty for this application. Mr. Masood had success but you may not and it's not worth the risk.
Actually, the Ford tool is made of very hard steal. I know because it took quite a bit of grinding to make it fit the new pulley. The wrench may break first before the tool does. It saves a lot of money over the Benz tool. It works on some Ford trucks, so I doubt very much it would break at these torque values. I have since replaced 2 more crank pulleys with same tool, BTW.
@@masood-tv I am glad for your success but mine which is the same exact tool failed on the first use. The Taiwan made copies of the actual Mercedes tool cost 100.00 vs. the 30.00 your tool cost but it is well worth it. My wife's car will be immobile for several days so the extra money will be well worth it. I am not criticizing you or your method, just warning others of the possible failure of that particular tool.
Where did you purchase it from, and did it say anywhere where it was made? Also, was the bolt very rusty? I am asking so we can pinpoint any variances for other viewers. I am sorry you had a bad experience with yours. I am also curious how is the car immobile if it didn't crack it open?
@@masood-tv It did allow me to remove the bolt but was so damaged as to prevent reuse to install the new bolt. Further, it does not hold firmly in place vs. the method of the actual tool, which is a much better design. It was the exact same tool as you have.
@istvanmeissler2238 thanks.