I have this same unit. You can note that if you are off grid like me, you can connect your generator as your AC in. So on a cloudy day you can just turn your generator on and get the same charge/use benefit.
Hey, I have a 10k system but the AC in isn’t working for some reason. When I plug the generator in it reads on the inverter screen at 120v. But it doesn’t show a line going to the inverter and the batteries do not charge. I have it set to CUB but that didn’t do it either. Would appreciate any advice you have. Thanks.
I have 2 of the same units I just finished installing with 3000w of solar for each unit I installed a separate panel next to my main panel I removed all the circuit's out my main panel except the double pole breakers and put them in the new panel total of 24 breakers 12 breakers on each leg 12 on inverter 1and 12 on inverter 2 total of 24 breakers 15 and 20 amp breakers running 8# wire from inverter to second panel and same for utility input been running now for 3 weeks no problems at all I'm using 24v 600ah lifepo batteries on each inverter each inverter has it's own set of batteries of 24v 600ah each inverter in the panel the inverter is hooked up to a double pole 40 amp breaker as a main breaker disconnect I'm going to post video in the next few days so right now I'm 80% off grid only thing hooked up still to grid is my a.c. unit and heat unit everything else is off grid from 11am to 6pm running off solar only after 6pm when sun goes down batteries kick on running off batteries at night and only use about 20% of batteries at night till the morning then solar charge back to full then once full then house runs off solar
Have a quick question. I'm currently running the POWmr 24v 3.2k inverter. I love it except for the low Voc and solar input limits. Tried the 24v 3.6k inverter but it went into an over voltage situation one night and something popped inside. So a little wary of trying another 3.6k. The inverter in this video checks all the boxes except for one thing. Everything I'm reading on this inverter, says it has a solar Isc limit of 13 amps. Doesn't make sense with an 80 amp MPPT charge controller. Best answer I could get from POWmr was basically use a crap load of smaller panels. So I've been wanting to ask someone that's actually using the 3k inverter. What panel array do you have connected to yours ?? Specifically the Isc rating on the panels and what are you seeing the inverter handle current wise ?
I'm all up in your grill, because this is a jam up video. You answered all the questions I had..I have had one of these units for over 2 years and never got the balls to install it..But Now I can. Thanks a Bunch !!!!!
Thanks for sharing - great info! What is the minimal PV-input voltage the MPPT-charger can work at? And what is the MPPT-range for input from PV? Did you measure the stand-by consumption with inverter on/off? From the batt. it is probably about 20...40W but from mains input it often takes much more - don't know why? With inverter off it should be less.
I would refer to the product manual of the inverter on PowMR's website to insure you have all the information you are looking for. Thanks for watching and commenting
Great video! You touched on something I could use a little help with. Bonding. I am in an RV. I have a 3000W unit like this. When I connect me unit to the RV I'm using a 50 Amp (NEMA 14-50) on the RV and the same on my solar shed. I wired the connections with a jumper for the 2 live legs. I have an 8 foot grounding rod. Should I be providing a ground to the unit to the grounding rod? Or to the distribution box? And should I leave the green screw in to bond the ground and the neutral? I would really appreciate the help. Greg
Hi Greg, I would definitely run that by an electrician. There should only be one ground neutral bond and that would be at the first point of service. If it's a subpanel, you should remove the green screw. You would not want another bond after the main service panel. Hope that was helpful.
And for the record, i am an ex-electrician telling you this. and i cannot believe no one else has. Now the only reason i see doing this is to stop the possibility of load bouncing which would never happen unless that was a series of inter-connections preventing the path to ground. So do not take any advice except from an electrician.
Idle Power consumption from the batteries would be very useful. Many of these units eat 50Watt when sitting around during night time, draining the battery. Espacially during winter they eat more than PV produces. Victron Multiplus 2 only needs 8 Watts during idle, they are much more expensive though
Johguide5045. Oh yes, yes, yes i read that. Alot of powmr inverters are power zombies to extreme. They drain anywhere between 35 watts and 50 watts from battery bank, just sitting, with no load. Thats alot, people. Customers need to know that. That alone made me want to shop around and keep looking.
nice, informative video. I have a SPF 3000TL LVM-24P PowMR, that I'd like to connect to two CHINS 12.8 LiFePO4 batteries (in series) that do not have an RJ45 comm protocol wire. Am I missing anything critical if I don't connect the batteries to the growatt through the comm protocol? thanks bunches
Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍 The RJ45 comm usually acts an a communicate wire between the devices. Hard to say without being on site and seeing the whole setup.
It really depends on the size of the panels. Just check your panel voltage output and the voltage input range of the MPPT and there is your answer. Good luck!
@@lucienrobinson685 For just a test they all function as they should. but if a test means having it for your personal use, then how long they last is a real question. thanks a lot for your review.
got this system put together .. now taking it down to the RV.. do i need to worry about backfeeding the grid? i assumed the AC input was to charge batteries and / or bypass to run the load.
@@JustinsProject question on the ground.. i am not using a distro panel.. literally just pushing the AC - OUT to a dual 110v outlet.. so the ground and neutral can connect to the same AC OUT neutral?
do you know if this unit will accept changes in setting immediately, or does the thing have to be completely powered off and back on to absorb the new settings?
I have not. I bought a much larger inverter and installed it. I have a video on that if you are interested. EG4 6000XP - ua-cam.com/video/K-mXmVMyFxQ/v-deo.html
Do you know anything about the PowMr 12v 1600watt AIO? as far as i can tell it only puts out 220v @ 50hz. It would be perfect for my use if it were 120v @ 60hz. Im curious if there is a setting that changes the hz from 50 to 60 on your model.
Hi mate. I have powmr 3.2 24v hybrid inverter and my question is in the Philippines we have 220v on our socket via grid. and Do I need a 12v converter if I will use gadgets with only 12v and below? or It is safe to use the 24v powmr system to 12v gadgets without 12v converters?
@@tracydjenkins I just got the powmr yesterday and set it up in a test bench.. works GREAT.. i run 2x 200ah lifep04 in series with a 60amp breaker to it.. AC power in with a 20amp 3 prong cord, put the 20amp outlets on it.. my only concern is its charging the batteries at 40amps.. and the grid power cable is getting slightly warm, wonder if there is a way to lower the amp charge to 20?
About three years ago, I purchased six 24V 200W solar panels (before I knew what I was doing...thinking bigger was better). I have several other 12V 200W which are perfect for my 150VOC charge congrollers. But I still have those six pigeons...24V, each with 45.4 VOC. My battery banks are 24V. All of the panels are ground deployed/moveable...so with those six panels I'm stuck with a 2S3P setup (sucks). I've been looking for a 450VOC charge controller but they are pretty much geared for 48V battery banks. Then I found this unit online. I'm really interested to know about your real life experience with this unit...reliability, etc. It's really inexpensive (IMO) so I'm wondering about quality. What do you think about using it as a solar charger only? (backup inverter) Thanks for your video!
i have been running a 24v 3kw unit for almost a year now , i have 5 505w panels in series connected to it ,,spring summer fall its a powerhouse , altough a bit noisey. in the winter here in skandinavia i find that its hunting a bit to much for the powerpoint charging stopping charging stopping (it could be that i just have to few panels in series 250v )and they like to stabilize around 220-190v under load and it dip under that when it start charging ,,all in all i am very impressed with this unit and the funtions it have for the very low prize gen or grid input bypass powering e,c,t as it cont the same as a decent inverter alone ,,i can recommend..
@@kimmogensen5390What's the Isc on your panels ?? What solar amperage ( current ) are you seeing going in ?? The POWmr ad for this Inverter says the solar input limit is 13 amps. Doesn't make sense with an 80 amp MPPT charge controller built into it
This is the exact battery I was using: amzn.to/3NR3eot - I also have a review on that battery that can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/3rVQQvVdfD8/v-deo.html - Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
Just to confirm your setup, check out PowMR website and locate the product manual to insure it will do everything you need. Thanks for watching and commenting
It really depends on the design, whether you need an earth ground rod or not. For example, my 10kw system only needed an equipment ground ran from the racking to the combiner box. Then, I ran directly to the main service panel. In some cases, if you ground to the earth, you could create a ground loop. You don't want that. In other designs, you would be required to earth ground the racking system. I know that doesn't help much, but without physically reviewing the electrical system, I don't know. Maybe post your question over on the diysolarbuilds.com forum. As we grow, maybe an electrical engineer will see it and answer.
@DIYSolarBuilds the solar panels should be fine on ground that's for static and electric strikes. I suppose if I plugged the ac in it would cause ground loop if I kept it off then no. It's just the issue is there's no sub box near by and main botlx is in seperate house
@DIYSolarBuilds ok did more research I'm going to ground the panels to combiner for electrical and staic. On the inverter would I be fine with ground from an outlet. But do you know if the ground on ac out is combined internally with ac in or should I bus bar those 2 ? I'm trying to do the same thing you did but that model doesn't have the ac out ground so ig that ones internal
How do you work out if your battery can handle 80amps of charging? I am off grid (PV run only) and have 2 x 12V/250 amp gel batteries (set up in series)
What would happen if I plugged a 1000 W generator into the system? Would it overload the generator or are there settings to limit the power that it pulls from the generator?
Hola una cónsulta en la etiqueta dice que la entrada de voltaje mppt es de 120 a 400v. Eso quiere decir que si solo tengo 2 paneles solares de 24voltios que en serie entregan 62 voltios el cargador solar no me funcionara por el poco voltaje?
There are many versions of this inverter on the market. What I couldn't find out is if it could bypass straight from the grid to the appliance. Dose this mean you don't actually need a battery? I want to set this up for my 2kwh hottie heater and make it as cheap as possible. My hot tub cost £1k a year to run and adding a 3kwh solar array will definitely take that price down. In the uk I can build this for £700 including the pannals. But if I can save money by not buying battery it would save me £1.3k. Please advise me.
I have inherited a POWMR 2000 w 12v inverter charger. It looks to be almost brand new but when I hook my battery to it instantly shows fault 02 (over temperature). It’s not hot at all and I’m totally lost. Any thoughts? Thanks for any help!
Could be something internally wrong there. It could look brand new and still have something wrong internal if someone hooked it up wrong. Hard to know for certain.
How is this inverter doing from a "long term ownership" perspective? I've seen this unit on Amazon, just wasn't sure about long term or should I look more at Growatt or MPP brands?
I have PowMr3000 connected through a connecticut electric transfer switch, I am unsure how to earth this unit. your instructions appear to be a separate earth, the Pow Mr video says ground as close as possible to the unit.Can you advise please
It is new and they refuse to help get it worked on. PowMr tech is no good. They will never recognize a claim. They deny all responsibility and even claim there is no problem and told me they were done with it.@@JustinsProject
so I don't understand.........why is there ac from the house coming into the solar inverter? wouldn't you want SOLAR coming into the solar inverter? im very confused and new so trying to understand LOl
The AC coming in can help charge the batteries if that is needed. Typically, you would let the PV array charge the batteries. However, it is useful to have an alternative charging option. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
hey thanks for the clarification. OK so it's just a backup charging setup while you have power and when you don't it switches back to solar. Makes sense now. Thank you for your video and quick response.@@JustinsProject
Dude, checking how electricity travel is important knowledge. How are you separating the neutral and the ground wire from your concept when they are one in the same. As electricity goes to ground. So you decided to attach a separate ground bar that connects to the box. How is your neutral bar attached to the box? I want you to think about that.
Did you ever wonder why there was not a separate bar in the panel in the first place. You made a change without asking the "Why" of the design. Indicating that something is missing in your logic and as i am taking the time to mention this, which i do not have that time. This is why masters teach. If your neutral bar is connected to the box via a metal screw, you have done nothing of separation and the so called "BOND" as you define it still remains, which it should, there is a reason why the neutral and ground are on the same bus, because your neutral is the ground and vice versa
You have put people's lives at risk, giving them the idea of separation and you should take that very seriously and edit that out or remove this video. You should not be teaching electricity and it is clear that your knowledge is lacking at best. fix it before you get people killed. Real Talk!
It is clear that you have a metal screw into the metal box of the neutral lug. which is the zero-resistant path to your ground bar. you nothing with that movement. Just stop and remove this video before someone tries to do this for real and ends up not having a ground in their panel cause the flow of electrons to be NULL and power flowing through items that is should not cause there is no path to ground. This will cause death to people who should not be dealing with electricity in the place and you have a obligation to stop teaching this concept to everyone and just stop it. As a ex-electrician, it is my duty to inform you that your actions is not how it is done, and there is reason why your ground and neutral are zero resistance in the panel. Next time ask the question why and 5 minutes of your time on a electrician forum would have given you the reason why if you were successful, that you put you and your entire family in danger and all those who watched this video
now to end this, neutral will carry the load back to the ground, so how can that happen if you separate the two? this is so bad on so many levels. Do not get it twisted, electrical theory will tell you there are different, and in theory they are. but you should be smart enough to ask, why did they connect the neutral to the ground, and that is because they are one in the same. They also say that you cannot be shocked by the neutral, and i wonder what happens when the neutral is no longer connected to ground, well we will see then, if you get a shock on the neutral side. There is theory and there is physics, and you cannot devalue the existence of physics and will give you bad days many times over when you try. I can eliminate the neutral wire and use the naked ground wire to complete my circuit and power my light bulb, i wonder why. Well, i already told you
40amp charging the batteries but the amp wiring and ac receptacle is 20amps. Hmm sounds like going to pop that breaker. Don’t you need to lower the ac charge input to under 20amps?
?Ok so it's an all in one inverter, but what about 12 volt power? What if it's a 48 volt system and you need to power your air conditioner? How about power for USB ports? I'm new to this but I don't understand how you can say it's all in one system when you need the other power sources?
All in one, meaning you don't need to purchase multiple components. Like a solar charge controller and inverter. It is a combo unit. Depending on your system, 12v, 24v, 36v, or 48v, you need to purchase the right one. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Unfortuneatly no All-in-one manufacturer allows for 12vdc accessories. As 12v usually applies to Automotive/RV/ marine/applications. You can however buy a transformer 24vdc to 12vdc that you can connect to your batteries (24vdc in this case)and to the 12v fuse block on your vehicle. Or you can purchase a 12vdc fuse block and install all your own accessories. Match the ampacity of your transformer ie. 24vdc-12dc @100amps to a fuse block rated at 100 amps. Than you are ready to access all your 12v accessories.
If this was a permanent setup then, yes I would have. Thanks for pointing that out, though. I should have mentioned that. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I agree with 24v at 40 amp (max ac charge current rating)at 24 v. But what I DON’T get is 40 Volt Max AC bypass current (120v?)…. Not with 12AWG !… and certainly not with a 20 amp outlet. What am I missing?
@ if you convert it to watts it makes sense. Watts are universal and make simple. 120v ac x 20amp = 2,400 watts 2,400 watts / 120v = 20 amps. 2,400 watts / 24v = 100 amps 80 amps x 24v = 1,920 watts 1,920 watts / 120v = 16 amps
Not sure the bonding setup is correct. Unlike a true sub-panel the source is the inverter, not your main AC panel. Electricity wants to get back to the source. If a hot wire suppled by the inverter touched the metal box it could not get back to the source through the breaker the way you have it. The AC IN is grounded to the inverter so if the black wire touched the inverter case it would trip the breaker that supplies the input. But then again I could be wrong. I think the load center supplied by the inverter should be bonded.,
@@WillyBegee From what I can tell, you do NOT bond the load center. When connected to grid power the inverter is bypassed and the main panel ground is primary as in any other sub panel. You do connect the green grounding wire to the inverter ground/green terminal providing the ground when the inverter is in use. Still not entirely clear to me how bonding is achieved if “grid power” is coming from a generator rather than the main power utility.
@@WillyBegee Also, when I say ground I really mean “alternate return path” since it really has nothing to do with the ground we walk on. The green wires are an alternate return path to trip the breaker if the hot wire touches something metal that doesn’t have a white wire. Whatever.
Everyone, leave the design of your electrical panels and sub panels alone. do not put your lives and family in danger. what is being said in this video is hurtful and life threatening and never in my 5 decades on this earth have i ever been this upset watching a video. This guy is providing an illusion that he knows what he is talking about and just think logically for a 2nd. If the ground and neutral bars in the main panel is tied together with zero resistance, then the neutral and the ground will always be the same no matter how many sub panels you install. all you are doing is creating two ground and neutral locations only if you use plastic screws to attach it to a metal box. you are screwing in a metal bar into a metal box with a metal screw, there is no separation. If you correctly separate these two successfully as this guy is telling you that you should, then that is where the real shit hits the fan and you will find out the hard way when the power comes in and has no why to get out. I want everyone to realize that with everything with power, once you do not respect it, it will claim you. And the worst will be claiming your son or daughter. Look at how many post just me. Why? So i can stop others from making a dangerous mistake that they can never take back. This is why their are electricians and plumbers and mechanics and pilots and train conductors. Respect electricity and do not play with toys you do not understand
I don’t mind having a discussion or at least trying to. It’s true, if you're not familiar with how electricity works or how components are built, hire a seasoned professional to do the work. I don’t disagree with you at all on that. Let’s try taking this one question at a time. Are you suggesting there is no reason to separate the neutral and ground (bond) in a sub-panel?
@@JustinsProject ok, was not expecting this response, so that is egg on my face and well deserved based on your response. So i cannot ignore this without a response. My verbiage needs to clear so let me try. Ok, the power company sends you a hot wire that is jacketed. They also send you a neutral wire to carry the load given to you back to their source to send it to ground. Now if your panel has combined the neutral and the ground, it will never travel back to the source since your ground for your building is created by just pounded a steal rod 8ft at least into the earth and attaching a wire to it. So, if you seperate the 2 bars, then the load will be carried back to the source and not the ground right there that your building is sitting on. Now think about what you are doing with this. You are completing the circuit being fed to your house with your leg from the transformer and the ground. not the neutral from the transformer. This is because the ground rod is a shorter path to ground. That is a gurantee grounding to complete your circuit. You have 240 volt circuit that you divide into other circuits in your panel. Your circuit coming to your house goes into the main breaker of the panel. A lighten rod purpose is to attract the lighten bolt since the lighten rod is the shortest path to ground. Lighten never hits the same place twice? that is a lie in a half.
World trade center building, one of them, was hit close to 200 times over a 5 year span. so, it will be hit the same place more than once, these are statements that are full of false physics
now, you combined the neutral and the ground together in the main panel. Every wire in your building is just one big loop. all hot wires are connected to the neutral wire and the ground at the same time. so why would if matter if you separate the Gound and the neutral on sub-panels when they are already in zero continuity to the ground regardless. As a electrician in the union you use to have two programs. The C mechanic and the A mechanic. A mechanics were always high in demand because their knowledge from 5 years of union school only about electricity made the difference in the world. If you separate, you are relying on the power company to provide you with the return path. If this was reliable and trusted, we would not have a ground-rod install as standard code. Physics is Physic and anyone can say anything but we must always question what we are told with the question "Why?". I do not even need the neutral and can just use the ground wire to complete my circuit. I was taught as a helper electrician at the time, that i can never be shocked by a neutral wire, and even today master electricians will say the same thing and i have been proven that wrong. not by a theory, document, or experiment to prove my case. I proved it by always using naked finger on the neutral and getting shock the hell out of me and they beat me down that it was impossible. Even though i had the meter hooked up to the neutral wire by mistake and read voltage for a split second as being shocked. Never have i ever touched a neutral wire by naked fingers ever again. there were wrong and i paid the price. the bad part was it was 277 volts and that crap hurts and affects your nerves for day and your thought process and heart rhythms. So there is no inspector going to fail you for not separating the two bars and in fact have a high chance of failing if he notices it.
@@JustinsProject also you separating the bars on the sub panel does not separate, the ground and the neutral will always be one in that building no matter what you do unless you separate and isolate the two from the beginning. remember that the power that comes into your home are all connected in a loop. To truly do this, that means your power will leave your house on the neutral all the way back to the power company and the ground would only be use to short the circuit to spike the amps to trip the breaker. there is a reason why those bus are together and that is to make sure the circuit is completed by finishing its journey to ground.
Poor choice for the inverter. You would have been far better off installing a low frequency, transformer based inverter charger. Low frequency inverters offer a far longer life expectancy, a much higher surge capacity, and they offer galvanic isolation between their DC boost stage and their AC output for far safer operation. A high frequency, transformerless inverter like this can not only damage your AC appliances, they can even set your AC appliances on fire.
This may be a wrong ground wiring. Why don’t you use your multimeter to check the voltage between neutral and ground. Let’s see what voltage is there? If it’s correct then Neutral and ground should be 0-5 volts. The reason it’s wrong is where did you get your ground that is going to the ac outlet. This maybe dangerous please test with your multimeter
You are correct. When measuring between the ground and L, and Ground and N at the controller, it is 60 VAC from Ground to L and to N. Both the L and N are floating from ground. They are taking the 24 VDC from the batteries and creating 2 out of phase 60 volt waveforms.
If you are in the market for this inverter you can buy it on Amazon: amzn.to/3ZAFzNJ
I have this same unit. You can note that if you are off grid like me, you can connect your generator as your AC in. So on a cloudy day you can just turn your generator on and get the same charge/use benefit.
Thanks for sharing!
Does it has an ats for generators?
Doing that way, is the ground from generator still hooked up to AC in? Or is it the ground from house?
Hey, I have a 10k system but the AC in isn’t working for some reason. When I plug the generator in it reads on the inverter screen at 120v. But it doesn’t show a line going to the inverter and the batteries do not charge. I have it set to CUB but that didn’t do it either. Would appreciate any advice you have. Thanks.
I enjoy your reviews, I hope your channel takes off.
Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I have 2 of the same units I just finished installing with 3000w of solar for each unit I installed a separate panel next to my main panel I removed all the circuit's out my main panel except the double pole breakers and put them in the new panel total of 24 breakers 12 breakers on each leg 12 on inverter 1and 12 on inverter 2 total of 24 breakers 15 and 20 amp breakers running 8# wire from inverter to second panel and same for utility input been running now for 3 weeks no problems at all I'm using 24v 600ah lifepo batteries on each inverter each inverter has it's own set of batteries of 24v 600ah each inverter in the panel the inverter is hooked up to a double pole 40 amp breaker as a main breaker disconnect I'm going to post video in the next few days so right now I'm 80% off grid only thing hooked up still to grid is my a.c. unit and heat unit everything else is off grid from 11am to 6pm running off solar only after 6pm when sun goes down batteries kick on running off batteries at night and only use about 20% of batteries at night till the morning then solar charge back to full then once full then house runs off solar
Awesome! Love hearing things like that. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience 👍🏻
Sounds like a nice system.
Post that video soon please.
Have a quick question. I'm currently running the POWmr 24v 3.2k inverter. I love it except for the low Voc and solar input limits. Tried the 24v 3.6k inverter but it went into an over voltage situation one night and something popped inside. So a little wary of trying another 3.6k. The inverter in this video checks all the boxes except for one thing. Everything I'm reading on this inverter, says it has a solar Isc limit of 13 amps. Doesn't make sense with an 80 amp MPPT charge controller. Best answer I could get from POWmr was basically use a crap load of smaller panels. So I've been wanting to ask someone that's actually using the 3k inverter. What panel array do you have connected to yours ?? Specifically the Isc rating on the panels and what are you seeing the inverter handle current wise ?
I'm all up in your grill, because this is a jam up video. You answered all the questions I had..I have had one of these units for over 2 years and never got the balls to install it..But Now I can. Thanks a Bunch !!!!!
Glad I could help
Keep this type of content comin’! 👍🏼
Stay tuned, I have tons more coming. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Cool looking forward to it!
thank you so much, sir...now I understand the meaning of the GRID.
You are most welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
This is enlightening explanation.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing - great info! What is the minimal PV-input voltage the MPPT-charger can work at? And what is the MPPT-range for input from PV? Did you measure the stand-by consumption with inverter on/off? From the batt. it is probably about 20...40W but from mains input it often takes much more - don't know why? With inverter off it should be less.
I would refer to the product manual of the inverter on PowMR's website to insure you have all the information you are looking for. Thanks for watching and commenting
Great video! You touched on something I could use a little help with. Bonding. I am in an RV. I have a 3000W unit like this. When I connect me unit to the RV I'm using a 50 Amp (NEMA 14-50) on the RV and the same on my solar shed. I wired the connections with a jumper for the 2 live legs. I have an 8 foot grounding rod. Should I be providing a ground to the unit to the grounding rod? Or to the distribution box? And should I leave the green screw in to bond the ground and the neutral? I would really appreciate the help. Greg
Hi Greg, I would definitely run that by an electrician. There should only be one ground neutral bond and that would be at the first point of service. If it's a subpanel, you should remove the green screw. You would not want another bond after the main service panel. Hope that was helpful.
Yo, who ever told this guy there should only be one bound, is so wrong. Please call an electrician so he can explain to you why not to do this
And for the record, i am an ex-electrician telling you this. and i cannot believe no one else has. Now the only reason i see doing this is to stop the possibility of load bouncing which would never happen unless that was a series of inter-connections preventing the path to ground. So do not take any advice except from an electrician.
Nice and in-depth.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Idle Power consumption from the batteries would be very useful. Many of these units eat 50Watt when sitting around during night time, draining the battery. Espacially during winter they eat more than PV produces. Victron Multiplus 2 only needs 8 Watts during idle, they are much more expensive though
You are right, I should have provided that. Next time, I have it wired up I will add that info to the comments. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Johguide5045. Oh yes, yes, yes i read that. Alot of powmr inverters are power zombies to extreme. They drain anywhere between 35 watts and 50 watts from battery bank, just sitting, with no load. Thats alot, people. Customers need to know that. That alone made me want to shop around and keep looking.
@@jab376 you get a multiplus 2 3000 for 500 bucks nowadays. 2 years ago it was over 1000
@@johgude5045where? I’m seeing $1350’ish for Victron
@@2hotscottpro here in Germany it is 530€ ATM. I would recommend Panda Solar even if it is a bit more expensive there
Have you been using this over the last year? Any follow-up? Thanks for doing the noise level.
I upgraded to the EG4 6000XP. I have a full install video on that if you're interested.
nice, informative video. I have a SPF 3000TL LVM-24P PowMR, that I'd like to connect to two CHINS 12.8 LiFePO4 batteries (in series) that do not have an RJ45 comm protocol wire. Am I missing anything critical if I don't connect the batteries to the growatt through the comm protocol? thanks bunches
Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍 The RJ45 comm usually acts an a communicate wire between the devices. Hard to say without being on site and seeing the whole setup.
Nice watching. Regards
Many thanks
Excellent video thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thx
I have the 3000V 24 V Power Mr. With a CHINS 24V 200AH LiFePO4 Lithium Battery. How can I double the time I can run my unit during a power failure?
2 options: Reduce usage or increase battery capacity
newbi question: what is the advantage of a 24v inverter over a 45v inverter?
Can the input and the output 240v be paralleled if you intend to feed the power from thr inverter back into thr main distribution panel?
This model is designed for Off-Grid use.
Thank you so much!
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
How many panels do you need to get the system started up,,
It really depends on the size of the panels. Just check your panel voltage output and the voltage input range of the MPPT and there is your answer. Good luck!
Thanks for this explanation. I need to know the quality and durability of this powmr before buying this. Can you help me with this?
From the test I conducted, it functions as it should.
I had the 2.4 kW version it didn't last long and had no built-in fuse
@@lucienrobinson685 For just a test they all function as they should. but if a test means having it for your personal use, then how long they last is a real question. thanks a lot for your review.
@@lucienrobinson685 thank you so much for sharing your experience.
got this system put together .. now taking it down to the RV.. do i need to worry about backfeeding the grid? i assumed the AC input was to charge batteries and / or bypass to run the load.
It is not a grid feeding system. You assume correctly. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
@@JustinsProject question on the ground.. i am not using a distro panel.. literally just pushing the AC - OUT to a dual 110v outlet.. so the ground and neutral can connect to the same AC OUT neutral?
Please my inverter flashes code 01 with continuous bleeping indicating a fan fault.
What could go wrong with the fan?
do you know if this unit will accept changes in setting immediately, or does the thing have to be completely powered off and back on to absorb the new settings?
I am not sure, I have upgraded to the EG4 6000XP
Justin, Have you connected solar to this inverter yet ? If so, what's the Isc on the panels you're running ?
I have not. I bought a much larger inverter and installed it. I have a video on that if you are interested. EG4 6000XP - ua-cam.com/video/K-mXmVMyFxQ/v-deo.html
Do you know anything about the PowMr 12v 1600watt AIO? as far as i can tell it only puts out 220v @ 50hz. It would be perfect for my use if it were 120v @ 60hz.
Im curious if there is a setting that changes the hz from 50 to 60 on your model.
I don't. It might be on their website though. If you find it, let us know.
Hi mate. I have powmr 3.2 24v hybrid inverter and my question is in the Philippines we have 220v on our socket via grid. and Do I need a 12v converter if I will use gadgets with only 12v and below? or It is safe to use the 24v powmr system to 12v gadgets without 12v converters?
Do not try to power 12v appliances with 24v outputs. It will cause damage to the appliances.
Hey Justin do you have a link or model number for the load center I can't seam to find it on the internet. Thanks
It's an Eaton load center. I picked it up at Menards.
hello, the inverter 10.2kw pow mr stil work without battery and without ac in? (only pv powered)?
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
No
i just sent back my chin's 3000w as the AC did NOT charge the battery.. remained 0a .. so will probably be buying powMR after i return the chins.
Hopefully, you get that all worked out. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I'm going through that now it's doing the same thing I luckily bought insurance on it .
@@tracydjenkins I just got the powmr yesterday and set it up in a test bench.. works GREAT.. i run 2x 200ah lifep04 in series with a 60amp breaker to it.. AC power in with a 20amp 3 prong cord, put the 20amp outlets on it.. my only concern is its charging the batteries at 40amps.. and the grid power cable is getting slightly warm, wonder if there is a way to lower the amp charge to 20?
Thank you! The information you provided was beneficial and insightful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
you can control at what voltage it should switch from the battery to the power grid and at what voltage it should switch back to the batteries
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
About three years ago, I purchased six 24V 200W solar panels (before I knew what I was doing...thinking bigger was better). I have several other 12V 200W which are perfect for my 150VOC charge congrollers. But I still have those six pigeons...24V, each with 45.4 VOC. My battery banks are 24V. All of the panels are ground deployed/moveable...so with those six panels I'm stuck with a 2S3P setup (sucks). I've been looking for a 450VOC charge controller but they are pretty much geared for 48V battery banks. Then I found this unit online. I'm really interested to know about your real life experience with this unit...reliability, etc. It's really inexpensive (IMO) so I'm wondering about quality. What do you think about using it as a solar charger only? (backup inverter) Thanks for your video!
I think it would be great as a solar charger only! That is what I will do with it once I get my mini splits in. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
i have been running a 24v 3kw unit for almost a year now , i have 5 505w panels in series connected to it ,,spring summer fall its a powerhouse , altough a bit noisey. in the winter here in skandinavia i find that its hunting a bit to much for the powerpoint charging stopping charging stopping (it could be that i just have to few panels in series 250v )and they like to stabilize around 220-190v under load and it dip under that when it start charging ,,all in all i am very impressed with this unit and the funtions it have for the very low prize gen or grid input bypass powering e,c,t as it cont the same as a decent inverter alone ,,i can recommend..
@@kimmogensen5390What's the Isc on your panels ?? What solar amperage ( current ) are you seeing going in ?? The POWmr ad for this Inverter says the solar input limit is 13 amps. Doesn't make sense with an 80 amp MPPT charge controller built into it
Thanks
Thank you for watching and commenting 👍🏻
What is the rs 232 port, on the left hand side, for?
Communications port. Thanks for watching and commenting.
A step drill bit will fix that knockout not fitting
Good tip. I have one and didn't even think about trying that. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Good job 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
what type of battery did you used sir
This is the exact battery I was using: amzn.to/3NR3eot - I also have a review on that battery that can be found here: ua-cam.com/video/3rVQQvVdfD8/v-deo.html - Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
Can I connect 2 inverters? I need more power than 3000W. Thank you
Just to confirm your setup, check out PowMR website and locate the product manual to insure it will do everything you need. Thanks for watching and commenting
So the ground to the sub box comes from the ac in right? If thats so am i ok just grounding the solar panels to earth ground? 8ft rod
As I hit send you answered it in vid lol but would solar panel cases be ok on own ground
It really depends on the design, whether you need an earth ground rod or not. For example, my 10kw system only needed an equipment ground ran from the racking to the combiner box. Then, I ran directly to the main service panel. In some cases, if you ground to the earth, you could create a ground loop. You don't want that. In other designs, you would be required to earth ground the racking system. I know that doesn't help much, but without physically reviewing the electrical system, I don't know. Maybe post your question over on the diysolarbuilds.com forum. As we grow, maybe an electrical engineer will see it and answer.
@DIYSolarBuilds the solar panels should be fine on ground that's for static and electric strikes. I suppose if I plugged the ac in it would cause ground loop if I kept it off then no. It's just the issue is there's no sub box near by and main botlx is in seperate house
@DIYSolarBuilds ok did more research I'm going to ground the panels to combiner for electrical and staic. On the inverter would I be fine with ground from an outlet. But do you know if the ground on ac out is combined internally with ac in or should I bus bar those 2 ? I'm trying to do the same thing you did but that model doesn't have the ac out ground so ig that ones internal
Does this all-in-one have the generator hook up to run a generator say for an ac window unit on a small off grid solar system setup?
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Yes it does
Hi bro I do not want to use mains. How can I know if the panels are charging the batteries ? it seems to be stuck at 25%
I guess 25% is the load
Be sure your battery can handle 80 amps of charging, it's adjustable in the settings.
True. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
How do you work out if your battery can handle 80amps of charging? I am off grid (PV run only) and have 2 x 12V/250 amp gel batteries (set up in series)
@@sandrapetretich7045 There should be a recommended charge current in your battery specifications / owners manual or search for AGM charge current.
What would happen if you plugged a micro inverter into a power station 120ac output to power it?
I haven't tried it, but it might be something I will experiment with in the future. 😉 Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can two solar panal start the system??
Hola yo tengo la misma duda si solo tengo 2 paneles que en total entregan 62 voltios esto iniciará la carga porque la etiqueta dice de 120 a 400v ???
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
What would happen if I plugged a 1000 W generator into the system? Would it overload the generator or are there settings to limit the power that it pulls from the generator?
I haven't tried that personally. You might check the user manual online to find out for sure.
whats the standby draw tho?
I will need to test again to confirm. Thanks for watching and commenting
do you know if all the powmr inverters do NOT have a ground-neutral bond? (like the 48V 230V 6000W ones)?
I would reach out to them directly because some are and some are not. Or that was true some time ago.
Does the PowMr have an internally bonded neutral?
Some units do
@@JustinsProject POW-LVM5K-48V-N is the one I'm installing. The provided documentation seems to be silent on the matter.
Hola una cónsulta en la etiqueta dice que la entrada de voltaje mppt es de 120 a 400v. Eso quiere decir que si solo tengo 2 paneles solares de 24voltios que en serie entregan 62 voltios el cargador solar no me funcionara por el poco voltaje?
You will need enough voltage to wake up the MPPT.
Is it reliable?
There are many versions of this inverter on the market.
What I couldn't find out is if it could bypass straight from the grid to the appliance. Dose this mean you don't actually need a battery?
I want to set this up for my 2kwh hottie heater and make it as cheap as possible.
My hot tub cost £1k a year to run and adding a 3kwh solar array will definitely take that price down.
In the uk I can build this for £700 including the pannals.
But if I can save money by not buying battery it would save me £1.3k.
Please advise me.
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
how is your PowMr working today?
I use it from time to time. It is still working fine. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I have inherited a POWMR 2000 w 12v inverter charger. It looks to be almost brand new but when I hook my battery to it instantly shows fault 02 (over temperature). It’s not hot at all and I’m totally lost. Any thoughts? Thanks for any help!
Could be something internally wrong there. It could look brand new and still have something wrong internal if someone hooked it up wrong. Hard to know for certain.
@ thanks Justin. If that’s the case I’d it fixable or no? Thanks!
How is this inverter doing from a "long term ownership" perspective? I've seen this unit on Amazon, just wasn't sure about long term or should I look more at Growatt or MPP brands?
Depending on your budget and overall build, I was recommended to look into EG4.
@@JustinsProject problem is I can't find a 3000w 24v EG4... Not really wanting to go to 48v just yet...
@@logun1970 Ahhh, I see. I don't use the PowMR that often but it definitely does the job.
Is it still working?
I have upgraded to a much larger inverter: The EG4 6000XP - I did a full install video if you are interested. ua-cam.com/video/K-mXmVMyFxQ/v-deo.html
I have PowMr3000 connected through a connecticut electric transfer switch, I am unsure how to earth this unit. your instructions appear to be a separate earth, the Pow Mr video says ground as close as possible to the unit.Can you advise please
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Can anybody tell me of an electronics shop that can fix hybrid inverters like the PowMr 10.2?
Depending on how old your unit is, you might check the manufactures warranty. Might be covered.
It is new and they refuse to help get it worked on. PowMr tech is no good. They will never recognize a claim. They deny all responsibility and even claim there is no problem and told me they were done with it.@@JustinsProject
so is the powmr still going? Im thinking of purchasing one
Yes. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
I install this inverter but when i connect the pv don't charge the battery
It should. I would contact support and have them walk you through the setup for your configuration. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
How does one turn off PowMr inverter on the mobile app?
I have upgraded to a larger inverter, or I would have looked into this for you
so I don't understand.........why is there ac from the house coming into the solar inverter? wouldn't you want SOLAR coming into the solar inverter? im very confused and new so trying to understand LOl
The AC coming in can help charge the batteries if that is needed. Typically, you would let the PV array charge the batteries. However, it is useful to have an alternative charging option. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
hey thanks for the clarification. OK so it's just a backup charging setup while you have power and when you don't it switches back to solar. Makes sense now. Thank you for your video and quick response.@@JustinsProject
Dude, checking how electricity travel is important knowledge. How are you separating the neutral and the ground wire from your concept when they are one in the same. As electricity goes to ground. So you decided to attach a separate ground bar that connects to the box. How is your neutral bar attached to the box? I want you to think about that.
Did you ever wonder why there was not a separate bar in the panel in the first place. You made a change without asking the "Why" of the design. Indicating that something is missing in your logic and as i am taking the time to mention this, which i do not have that time. This is why masters teach. If your neutral bar is connected to the box via a metal screw, you have done nothing of separation and the so called "BOND" as you define it still remains, which it should, there is a reason why the neutral and ground are on the same bus, because your neutral is the ground and vice versa
You have put people's lives at risk, giving them the idea of separation and you should take that very seriously and edit that out or remove this video. You should not be teaching electricity and it is clear that your knowledge is lacking at best. fix it before you get people killed. Real Talk!
It is clear that you have a metal screw into the metal box of the neutral lug. which is the zero-resistant path to your ground bar. you nothing with that movement. Just stop and remove this video before someone tries to do this for real and ends up not having a ground in their panel cause the flow of electrons to be NULL and power flowing through items that is should not cause there is no path to ground. This will cause death to people who should not be dealing with electricity in the place and you have a obligation to stop teaching this concept to everyone and just stop it. As a ex-electrician, it is my duty to inform you that your actions is not how it is done, and there is reason why your ground and neutral are zero resistance in the panel. Next time ask the question why and 5 minutes of your time on a electrician forum would have given you the reason why if you were successful, that you put you and your entire family in danger and all those who watched this video
now to end this, neutral will carry the load back to the ground, so how can that happen if you separate the two? this is so bad on so many levels. Do not get it twisted, electrical theory will tell you there are different, and in theory they are. but you should be smart enough to ask, why did they connect the neutral to the ground, and that is because they are one in the same. They also say that you cannot be shocked by the neutral, and i wonder what happens when the neutral is no longer connected to ground, well we will see then, if you get a shock on the neutral side. There is theory and there is physics, and you cannot devalue the existence of physics and will give you bad days many times over when you try. I can eliminate the neutral wire and use the naked ground wire to complete my circuit and power my light bulb, i wonder why. Well, i already told you
I replied this thread already
40amp charging the batteries but the amp wiring and ac receptacle is 20amps. Hmm sounds like going to pop that breaker. Don’t you need to lower the ac charge input to under 20amps?
That's charging at 40amps DC. That's only taking about 8 amps of the ac input. I have the same unit
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
?Ok so it's an all in one inverter, but what about 12 volt power? What if it's a 48 volt system and you need to power your air conditioner? How about power for USB ports? I'm new to this but I don't understand how you can say it's all in one system when you need the other power sources?
All in one, meaning you don't need to purchase multiple components. Like a solar charge controller and inverter. It is a combo unit. Depending on your system, 12v, 24v, 36v, or 48v, you need to purchase the right one. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Unfortuneatly no All-in-one manufacturer allows for 12vdc accessories. As 12v usually applies to Automotive/RV/ marine/applications.
You can however buy a transformer 24vdc to 12vdc that you can connect to your batteries (24vdc in this case)and to the 12v fuse block on your vehicle. Or you can purchase a 12vdc fuse block and install all your own accessories. Match the ampacity of your transformer ie. 24vdc-12dc @100amps to a fuse block rated at 100 amps. Than you are ready to access all your 12v accessories.
@@rollinronin8125 Thank you. That makes sense. I can probably do that.
To get 240 V doesn’t the phases have to be separate 180°
120V on each phase. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Also wouldnt you put 200a fuse to batteries?
If this was a permanent setup then, yes I would have. Thanks for pointing that out, though. I should have mentioned that. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
My anti reverse protection failed would external diode work? It's weird tho because power seems to come out the pv negative at night
The 40 amp charging from a 20amp ac socket (2,400watts) must be in reality 40amp at 24v (960watts).
It is capable of 40amps, I had it set to 20amps for this demo.
I agree with 24v at 40 amp (max ac charge current rating)at 24 v.
But what I DON’T get is 40 Volt Max AC bypass current (120v?)…. Not with 12AWG !… and certainly not with a 20 amp outlet. What am I missing?
@ if you convert it to watts it makes sense. Watts are universal and make simple.
120v ac x 20amp = 2,400 watts
2,400 watts / 120v = 20 amps.
2,400 watts / 24v = 100 amps
80 amps x 24v = 1,920 watts
1,920 watts / 120v = 16 amps
Not sure the bonding setup is correct. Unlike a true sub-panel the source is the inverter, not your main AC panel. Electricity wants to get back to the source. If a hot wire suppled by the inverter touched the metal box it could not get back to the source through the breaker the way you have it. The AC IN is grounded to the inverter so if the black wire touched the inverter case it would trip the breaker that supplies the input. But then again I could be wrong. I think the load center supplied by the inverter should be bonded.,
Something I will research a further. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Did you ever get to determine if the neutral bond from your main grid panel is sufficient, or do you need to bond the panel connected to the inverter?
@@WillyBegee From what I can tell, you do NOT bond the load center. When connected to grid power the inverter is bypassed and the main panel ground is primary as in any other sub panel. You do connect the green grounding wire to the inverter ground/green terminal providing the ground when the inverter is in use. Still not entirely clear to me how bonding is achieved if “grid power” is coming from a generator rather than the main power utility.
@@WillyBegee Also, when I say ground I really mean “alternate return path” since it really has nothing to do with the ground we walk on. The green wires are an alternate return path to trip the breaker if the hot wire touches something metal that doesn’t have a white wire. Whatever.
Ebay has these for 300 bucks.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
They used metric measurements for the knockouts, hence, inches don’t work…. Yeah, been there
Everyone, leave the design of your electrical panels and sub panels alone. do not put your lives and family in danger. what is being said in this video is hurtful and life threatening and never in my 5 decades on this earth have i ever been this upset watching a video. This guy is providing an illusion that he knows what he is talking about and just think logically for a 2nd. If the ground and neutral bars in the main panel is tied together with zero resistance, then the neutral and the ground will always be the same no matter how many sub panels you install. all you are doing is creating two ground and neutral locations only if you use plastic screws to attach it to a metal box. you are screwing in a metal bar into a metal box with a metal screw, there is no separation. If you correctly separate these two successfully as this guy is telling you that you should, then that is where the real shit hits the fan and you will find out the hard way when the power comes in and has no why to get out. I want everyone to realize that with everything with power, once you do not respect it, it will claim you. And the worst will be claiming your son or daughter. Look at how many post just me. Why? So i can stop others from making a dangerous mistake that they can never take back. This is why their are electricians and plumbers and mechanics and pilots and train conductors. Respect electricity and do not play with toys you do not understand
I don’t mind having a discussion or at least trying to. It’s true, if you're not familiar with how electricity works or how components are built, hire a seasoned professional to do the work. I don’t disagree with you at all on that.
Let’s try taking this one question at a time.
Are you suggesting there is no reason to separate the neutral and ground (bond) in a sub-panel?
@@JustinsProject ok, was not expecting this response, so that is egg on my face and well deserved based on your response. So i cannot ignore this without a response. My verbiage needs to clear so let me try. Ok, the power company sends you a hot wire that is jacketed. They also send you a neutral wire to carry the load given to you back to their source to send it to ground. Now if your panel has combined the neutral and the ground, it will never travel back to the source since your ground for your building is created by just pounded a steal rod 8ft at least into the earth and attaching a wire to it. So, if you seperate the 2 bars, then the load will be carried back to the source and not the ground right there that your building is sitting on. Now think about what you are doing with this. You are completing the circuit being fed to your house with your leg from the transformer and the ground. not the neutral from the transformer. This is because the ground rod is a shorter path to ground. That is a gurantee grounding to complete your circuit. You have 240 volt circuit that you divide into other circuits in your panel. Your circuit coming to your house goes into the main breaker of the panel. A lighten rod purpose is to attract the lighten bolt since the lighten rod is the shortest path to ground. Lighten never hits the same place twice? that is a lie in a half.
World trade center building, one of them, was hit close to 200 times over a 5 year span. so, it will be hit the same place more than once, these are statements that are full of false physics
now, you combined the neutral and the ground together in the main panel. Every wire in your building is just one big loop. all hot wires are connected to the neutral wire and the ground at the same time. so why would if matter if you separate the Gound and the neutral on sub-panels when they are already in zero continuity to the ground regardless. As a electrician in the union you use to have two programs. The C mechanic and the A mechanic. A mechanics were always high in demand because their knowledge from 5 years of union school only about electricity made the difference in the world. If you separate, you are relying on the power company to provide you with the return path. If this was reliable and trusted, we would not have a ground-rod install as standard code. Physics is Physic and anyone can say anything but we must always question what we are told with the question "Why?". I do not even need the neutral and can just use the ground wire to complete my circuit. I was taught as a helper electrician at the time, that i can never be shocked by a neutral wire, and even today master electricians will say the same thing and i have been proven that wrong. not by a theory, document, or experiment to prove my case. I proved it by always using naked finger on the neutral and getting shock the hell out of me and they beat me down that it was impossible. Even though i had the meter hooked up to the neutral wire by mistake and read voltage for a split second as being shocked. Never have i ever touched a neutral wire by naked fingers ever again. there were wrong and i paid the price. the bad part was it was 277 volts and that crap hurts and affects your nerves for day and your thought process and heart rhythms. So there is no inspector going to fail you for not separating the two bars and in fact have a high chance of failing if he notices it.
@@JustinsProject also you separating the bars on the sub panel does not separate, the ground and the neutral will always be one in that building no matter what you do unless you separate and isolate the two from the beginning. remember that the power that comes into your home are all connected in a loop. To truly do this, that means your power will leave your house on the neutral all the way back to the power company and the ground would only be use to short the circuit to spike the amps to trip the breaker. there is a reason why those bus are together and that is to make sure the circuit is completed by finishing its journey to ground.
Poor choice for the inverter. You would have been far better off installing a low frequency, transformer based inverter charger. Low frequency inverters offer a far longer life expectancy, a much higher surge capacity, and they offer galvanic isolation between their DC boost stage and their AC output for far safer operation. A high frequency, transformerless inverter like this can not only damage your AC appliances, they can even set your AC appliances on fire.
Thanks for watching and commenting
This may be a wrong ground wiring. Why don’t you use your multimeter to check the voltage between neutral and ground. Let’s see what voltage is there? If it’s correct then Neutral and ground should be 0-5 volts. The reason it’s wrong is where did you get your ground that is going to the ac outlet. This maybe dangerous please test with your multimeter
I'll check it the next time I have this configuration installed. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
You are correct. When measuring between the ground and L, and Ground and N at the controller, it is 60 VAC from Ground to L and to N. Both the L and N are floating from ground. They are taking the 24 VDC from the batteries and creating 2 out of phase 60 volt waveforms.