As a 34 year retired auto mechanic, shop foreman, etc, If i lived close to Eric, I don t about 700 miles away, I would love to volunteer to help him do these tear downs. I will be there one day cause visiting Eric s shop is on my bucket list. I never miss a video
yes,,but it was driven like a horse & cart,,not a fkn race engine, like it should of been, direct injection is the problem.. carbon.. de carbon that engine, last forever.. there basically bullitt proof if DRIVEN.
I'm going to say it's the carboned up vales.. it probably was causing a misfire, as well as the staining you see from it possibly being lean.. great video as always!
Yep you beat me to it! I guarantee you that's all that was wrong with this engine probably cylinder two and three weren't making good compression due to carbon and somebody just said the hell with it swap the whole engine instead of fixing it
Yep I have one of these in a 22 Maverick. They are known to carbon up the seats of the valves, been told it's the number one problem. I installed two oil catch cans on the PVC system to help with this issue. I know when he looked in the ports it did not look good, should have removed the valves.
@@richs7362 You also have to consider that its direct infection, and what kind of codes that will bring up while in a starting sequence. Couldn't be good .
I think I see what was going on here. The yard sold the customer a perfectly good engine, but customer had driveability issues that they falsely attributed to engine mechanical problems, so they returned it. I'll bet the customer bought another engine after that, and had the same issues.
He mentioned a tight spot when 2 and 3 were at the tops of their bores...maybe that was the issue? Mechanical binding can trick the car into throwing a misfire code
these do not have hydraulic lifters, the buckets come in several sizes and are matched for a fixed gap. This is fine for 50-60k miles, then it needs adjustment. To do so, the shop has to remove the head, measure the gap, order specific buckets, remove the camshafts, swap the buckets, put the head back together, check the gap (and prey they got it right...), bolt the engine back together. This costs over $1k to do, takes about 3 days (waiting on parts) during which the shop has a non-driveable car taking up space, so it's rarely done when it's supposed to and the valves and seats get beat to death from the excessive gap, causing compression loss. All because Ford was a cheap c*nt.
@@AKAtheA Jaguar got away with this scheme for 40 years on the XK engine. But it was not meant to be a mass-market engine for the riff-raff who couldn't afford the shop charge and a back-up vehicle. In the design phase some boy wonder must have convinced somebody that through a miraculous new process, wear in the camshaft, bucket, valve, and seat would be eliminated. It is sad to see so many of the new engines, with so many wonderfully designed and built aspects, have one or two fatal flaws. This is the nature of piling-on so many innovations into one new product: all it takes is one mistake and all that good work goes for nothing. EV buyers should take note and tread cautiously.
@@tomscott1159 Honda (bikes) and Toyota (the legendary 2JZ) use this successfully for years, but in applications where it makes sense - like revving the engine to the moon and back. It's kinda' retarded on an econobox that redlines before 7k RPM, the customer literally gets no benefit here. Whatever was saved on a set of rocker arms and lifters (heck, ditch the lifters if you must, but give it adjustment screws) is eaten by the adjustment procedure...
That engine has the coveted "Whack-A-Mole" option! Seriously, I'm with you on that keyless crankshaft - I think they're saving a dollar by eliminating the keying operation - and gaining several dollars by selling those magic washers. That little pep talk at the end reminded me of a painful lesson I learned as young man : I bought a rim from my local salvage yard, and took it to a tire shop to have a tire mounted on it. The tire shop had the foresight to check the rim, instead of just putting the tire on and sending me on my way - and the rim was warped. So I took the rim back to the salvage yard and they gave me another. This time, I mounted the rim on my Jeep and checked it before going to the tire shop with it - and it was also warped! I went back to the salvage yard for another, and asked them if they had a way of checking them. The gentleman said "We sure do - we sell them to someone like you, and if they bring it back, we know it's bad". Ouch! So glad to know you don't do business like that - and I really enjoy the videos!
I think Eric is wrong in his statement about yards caring about what they sell. The mantra in that biz seems to be "you pays yer munnys and it's yours".
It's called having integrity, or pride in your work. Sadly it is not the norm today. Find the good guys out there and stick with them! Also spread the word about them!
I rented a 2018 Focus ST in Germany and drove several Alpine passes with it, 2 laps on the Nurburgring, and cruised at 140+ mph on the Autobahn. Great car and great engine/trans combo. Even the Recaro seats were excellent (if you're under 200 lbs).
They are good cars but the engine does have its limits. They can't be pushed too much as the pistons and rods are only safe for around 300-310hp (at least for uk build focus st250). However, the block is pretty strong.
20 years as an OEM Ford tech here, and I enjoy all of your video's, and have even learned a few things off of a few of them! Spot on with the outro about the industry, I see so many mis-diagnosed things come in for repair with sometimes a few thousand dollars of parts store coils/PCM's/ect hung on them over what usually turns out to be a few hundred dollar fix, it's sometimes unbelievable. Proper diagnosis is the most critical part of any repair as you have stated, especially with the complexity of modern vehicles.
The key thing is just them saving money by not machining the cranks and the pulleys for a key. I've been a machinist for many years and key ways usually have a .001 tolerance on the width and key and the location is also usually a plus or minus 1 degree tolerance. The current machining rate (my shop) is about $145 an hour so if they can save that for the millions of cranks they produce, that;s a huge amount saved.
I worked for a car manufacturer as a trainer and field support. When theb keyways went away in the early 90s the info was that tolerance drift and market emissions adaptability were why gears quit being keyed. The cam setup and crank positioning was blueprinted like hotrodders have done for ages. If deck height or cylinder deck to cam centers varied then it was handled. If turbo and non-turbo engines had two ideal cam setups then the robots and the dealer service tools handled it.
Isn't slotting one of the more expensive processes? Like, the joke I picked up is that the best way to make money with a slotting machine is to not buy one.
Will leak-downs make their way into teardown videos before they come apart after this experience? Might add a few minutes to each video, but it would definitely help explain the situation too.
@@I_Do_Cars the fact that 2 and 3 were not making enough compression to pop the coils out was concerning. wonder if the customer did a compression test and found that 2 and 3 were low. if the rods are compressed even just a bit, or even a bit bent, it would lead to poor running because of lower compression.
@@chubbysumo2230- yep. Could have idled just a tiny bit rough due to even the carbon build up on the valves and was declared as “not good enough” and pulled back out. 🤷🏻♂️
@@I_Do_Cars As others have said, the coils not popping on some cylinders could be due to low compression, but could just be you didn't crank it at the same speed on those cylinders. Stuck rings looks to be the most likely cause. The engine otherwise looked barely bed in. Bearings initially look bad then improve in the first 100 hours.
@@I_Do_Cars old bikes, 1930,s had cone clamping.& machines,, easier manufacturing, never had any probs with them. &, id say harleys still use it, cos there pre historic relics of bikes.. i have a focus, tdi. 2.0. goes like a cut cat..5 lt 100. 08..ausie..
My expectations of Ford are very low and then to have a seemingly good engine torn apart was rather shocking. Nice to see someone actually did oil changes. The engine was super clean.
Oh yeah an engine in that condition could most definitely be rebuilt. I was not expecting a teardown like this. What also made my day was the high pitched voice. Not making fun but the editing with that was great. Great job as always Eric.
18:10 was waiting for u to tap the tops of the pistons w ur mallet like u usually do before proceding especially since u noted #2 and 3 seemed tight at the top of the stroke.
I have a Duratech 2.0 in a 2005 Ford Focus and I have 138,000 miles on it. I have changed the valve cover and gasket, plugs, and coils. I noticed, when I was in there, that I will have to change the timing chain in the next 40-50,000 miles and it seems to be a pretty simple job. It uses the same "diamond" washer on the crank so you have to have a tool to keep the crank in the correct position and a bar on the head to keep the cams in place. Other than it being a tight fit, doing it in the car, it is really a simple job. I have no complaints with this engine. It is much better than the new "wet belt" system Ford is using now.
Dude you're my favorite person who takes engine's apart just to find out why it's there, I'm sure other people do it but they are not as entertaining, I'll say I have a 2.3 version of that engine and I'm glad to hear all of it's shortcomings and why it's bad, I'm glad to know What to look for, you tearing down engine's shows us what to look for and how to fix it before it blows up
I appreciate this video, even though the engine wasn't broken. I own a 2014 Focus ST, and this video was really helpful for me. The internals look far more stout than I was expecting, so I guess I can feel good about leaning on mine a little harder in future. I do wish that they had port injection to limit in the inlet valve fouling, aside from that I'm really pleased wit mine, it does everything advertised on the outside of the tin.
Channel is very informative and entertaining. You seem like one of those rare business owners who actually give a shit about its customers, very refreshing to see.
Awesome video, very detailed, however what you referred to as the Cruise Control System (hose assembly) is actually the Vapor Canister Purge Valve Assembly, which when fail will push a P1450 Code
Exactly my thoughts after seeing that demonstration at the beginning (and then the lack of obvious damage otherwise later on to offer an alternative cause of loss of compression on 2+3) The only other option I see is incorrect clamping force on the head in those areas with the less tight head bolts (located around the area between 2 and 3), assuming the mating surfaces and gaskets were all in spec.
i have a 2014 fusion with the vel 2.0 engine... 173000 miles on it.. change the oil with full syn every 6-7000 miles..put in 6 quarts and get back almost all of it. .minus a oz or two.. has a tune on it est power it about 280-285.. very quick and in cruise at 70 mph..i get 34/35 mpg.. here in the flat road os sacrament.. but can easily crest donner summit at 90 mph.. to go fly fishing.. the car and this engine is great.. never o issue from new
when you took out them 2 bolts from head that seemed loose... you think someone opened then closed them back or they were poor tight from factory ? gasket looked ok-ish but could have been a week spot on 2-3 ... specially when they bang same time ...
Iv owed a Mazda 6i with the 2.3 auto for over 6yrs with roughly 185k. It’s a great work car. Zero driveline issues. Just bought a 13 ST with 70k. These two motor blocks being so similar gives me a lot of confidence. Thank you for the info.
Have a 2013 Escape with the 2.0 and still running great after 150k miles. Oil changed every 5k full synthetic. Only issue now is an engine light for over boost. Trying to diagnose it at the moment.
I very much like that this is a family friendly channel. I can refer kids to this channel without hesitation. Thanks for leaving the machismo behind. Your channel is great! Thank you very much - it takes a lot to make a good video, let alone a great one!
Stopped the video at 20:30 to post this and will finish it in a minute but I have to say that from what I've seen so far is that there was probably a fuel delivery problem causing the carbon build up around the ring lands which if true, it was probably smoking through the exhaust system making the vehicle owner think that the motor was bad. Unfortunate to see a good $3,000+ used motor go to waste but then again, you could freshen it up with new rings, bearings and polishing and maybe get $4k out of it. Outstanding videos BTW. Thank you! 😎
I love that you commented on the non keyed crank. My opinion…. Anyone who has worked on a fusion, or any other modern car without the use of a two post lift will often pull the crank pulley to make room to pull the engine away from the transmission and out the top. I would assume that that was done on this engine. So, the timing was enough off that the engine ran poorly, or not at all, but not far enough off that pistons dusted the valves. It happens on these engines. I would encourage any backyard mechanic to purchase a book or subscription to a reputable repair site before attacking a project of this scope. Unfortunately, if this is the case, the seller ended up taking the financial hit for a beginners’ mistake.
Engine looked great. Just short of 250k miles on mine. If you are having misfire and stalling issues at idle, check the fuel tank purge solenoid; they fail open and allow fuel vapors to be sucked into the engine at idle which is overwhelming. Not an issue under boost, but a big issue at idle. Dirty intake valves don't help. I have had two solenoids fail in 11 years so far on the same vehicle (ford parts, not aftermarket).
Hey, it's worth mentioning that from 2017 to 2019 a different block was used in fusion, escape and edge. 2.0 in the ST was always closed deck, while from 2017 in the models mentioned, Ford used open deck design and instead of improving cooling, they caused problems with head gasket failures (mostly between cyl 1 and 2) and mentioned cracking of the block.
12:22 I think it’s the 2.3L Ecoboost like in the Focus RS and Mustang that’ll crack at the cylinder walls. They have thinner cylinder walls because they carved out bigger area for antifreeze to flow through to cool the engine better (open deck). Trade off is once you started adding more boost to those blocks or anything weird happens….crack.
in 2017 (I think), they cut or drilled a passage between 1,2 and 3,4 for cooling, but it caused head gasket problems, overheating, and cracked blocks. This 2015 did not have that cut. If you go back and look, there is very little room to begin with.
@@ifixthings86 Damn I really hope not lol. I have a 17 Focus ST over a year ago now, I plan to start adding some power to it soon. When I bought it I did a lot of research and figured I would be safe with the ST's 2.0L. I hope they didn't build some 2.0 Ecoboost's with passages and some without in 2017. If that's the case, hopefully I get lucky or something lol.
@@Yoshimatsu414if I recall correctly, ST’s do not have the issue as they used the same engine/head design throughout their production run. Other 2017+ Fords with the 2.0 Ecoboost got the “updated” head and gasket configuration.
@@ALMX5DP OK cool that's the conclusion I came to before I bought the ST. Was thinking about the RS but it was like $15K more and prone to the cracking blocks. I don't think it's worth the price different if I'd have to also change the block to start adding more power and not worry too much.
Car is meticulously taken care of and infrequently driven, then gets plowed from behind and totaled. Yard sells the engine as used good. New owner does a compression and/or leak down test and #2 and #3 fail, and so returns the engine. All that was wrong with it was the carbon on the rings and valves. Sounds plausible at least. I'd like to give a trophy to the original owner, that engine was f'n GORGEOUS inside. Well, except those intake valves...
I think you might have my old motor. About a year ago I bought a 14 focus st. Next day started a straight up misfire on cylinder 1. I figured that it was just a dead plug/ignition coil but rather than trying to fix it I brought it back to the Ford dealership and they ended up just replacing the engine. The day I got the car I put fresh oil in it as well as a motorcraft oil filter. I know you said the date code was 2015 but I have to wonder if this was that engine. It's not unheard of for STs to get new motors after a previous owner blew the stock one up with either poor driving or bad tune.
Been working on fords 10 years master tech. Replaced many 1.5 ecoboost for a design flaw in the engine block. Coolant would go into the cylinder(s). Most of the time it would set a check engine misfire code and the degas bottle will be low to empty. Replace a few 2.0 ecoboost but mainly the 1.5 had the most problems.
Would you recommend a first time car buyer to purchase a 2016 ST with 90000 miles? Really love this car and if it will never leave me stranded at the road side, I would love buying it.
Say Eric… Anyone ever suggest attatching a piece of 5 or 7 ply plywood to the tops of the stand legs (with appropriate holes cut out) so that your drain pan sits above the legs and not between ‘em. Might make your job a lil easier and keep your floor a lil cleaner.
I don't know what it is, but there's something really therapeutic about sitting on your couch and watching somebody else turn wrenches after battling with it yourself all day.
Those engines had a problem with the block casting being to porous. Coolant would leak through the cylinder walls into the combustion chamber and be burned. The official Ford solution was to replace the engine. They had a recall to add a low coolant switch to the system to alert the driver of coolant loss. We had one in our 2017 escape. The problem showed up on ours with just over 30K miles. We kept a close eye on it since the engine ran fine otherwise and we would have to top off the coolant once or twice a year. We put just under 100K miles on it before trading it in. There were no external coolant leaks. Ford did replace some engines under warranty.
I used to work at a place that rebuilt parts and engines and I can tell you that we got a lot of returns of parts that tested good on the test stands. Maybe incompetence or maybe a little bit of fraud going on? We got a lot of good alternators back as defective. We also bought cores that were almost new and we loved those. Just about all the parts we good and reusable, though we put new brushes and bearings in everything.
12:30 The 'first gen' 2.0L EcoBoost was partially mentioned in the TSB Ford put out for coolant intrusion (15-16 Fusions and Escapes) when it was originally issued, but the TSB (19-2172) was revised ~2 weeks after initial issue to remove those applications. The Focus ST never got the 2nd gen engine (at least not for NADM production); why that is the case is unknown. The TSB doesn't say WHY the 2nd gen engines have coolant intrusion problems, but the general consensus is that the block and head castings have porosity issues.
@@12345....... it helps that I've got a 2015 Fusion with this engine, so I made a point of learning a few things about them (and buying a subscription to AlldataDIY). I will say that I have heard of coolant intrusion issues on 1st gen 2.0Ls, but there doesn't seem to be much, if any, rhyme or reason to it. A coworker of mine had a 2014 FoST (and the car was modded, though it was all bolt-ons IIRC) that started misfiring out of nowhere, and when he pulled the plugs, they were wet with coolant; he got rid of the car. One guy in the Fusion group I'm in on Facebook went through 2-3 engines on his car; conversely, another guy in the same group has over 200k on his and its the original engine; both cars are modded IIRC. Mine has been fine despite a minor overheat scare on Tail of the Dragon 2 years ago that I still haven't conclusively identified a cause for.
I have a 1.6 eco boost in my fiesta, I recently upgraded the turbo and about a month ago I started to get misfires at idle, they were pretty noticeable and car ran rough at times but never illuminated a CEL. After new plugs and coils and doing a misfire profile correction with no help I decided to clean the valves. The valves looked like the ones here. I manually cleaned them and the misfires were completely gone
Im gonna go with low compression, hence the difference in tightness of the head bolts which probably caused vibration issues. I notice a bit of skirt wear on a few of the pistons as you were examining them which would explain the minor wear in the crank journals. I would say who ever put this engine back together did a great job except they probably forgot or didn't do a great job of calibrating their torque wrench when tightening the head bolts. It's the minor details that make engine building so difficult to reproduce the same reliability of the oems. Probably ran amazing for the first 20 or 30k. Love the channel! It's greatly appreciated
That was interesting. Doesn't really teach me much because the most "up to date" engine I have ever owned is the 400,000 mile Red Block 2.3 litre SOHC in my 1990 Volvo 240. Doesn't even leak or use oil to any noticeable degree. 4 litres in, 3.9 litres comes out. Since Arthur is a one family car the entire history is known. First car I have seen with 33 years and 400,000 miles on the steering rack, inner tie rod ends, antisway bar bushings, Panhard Rod bushings, and even one ball joint. Factory springs, although the front struts were done about 25 years ago. Rear shocks have been done 3 times. The car is eternal
Nothing that stands out, but I wonder if it was junked for TSB 19-2346, which is what killed my ST's engine that had otherwise been basically maintenance free for 180k miles and, no, I never had a single issue with performance, mileage, or drivability and I never installed any catch cans or used any valve cleaning snake oil. Whatever carbon build up was there was not an issue or maybe it's just that frequent Italian tune ups really do work. In my case, the engine ended up blowing massive clouds of white smoke, but otherwise ran perfectly (including coolant temp and loss rate was slow, plus no CELs). Thought it was turbo coolant leak, but it wasn't. Discovered the TSB that lists the fix for that symptom and similar to be replacing the long block. According to what I could find on a class action suit write up, it seems there's some kind of design or manufacturing defect that allows coolant to get into cylinders 2 and/or 3. It is not the head gasket and will not exhibit signs of such beyond burning coolant, but I don't know if it's a block or head related issue. I would imagine block, but perhaps the risk of more extensive damage remaining after head replacement plus the labor involved with that makes long block replacement a safer bet. Pretty much all the closed deck Ecoboost 4s of all displacements are listed in the TSB (except, strangely, the Focus ST specifically seems to have been left out, though I imagine due to limited production and typical usage of either low mileage babying that haven't encountered the problem yet or abuse that blows them up sooner limits the reports of failure). Supposedly, the issue was rectified in a 2018 redesign of some sort according to something I read, but I don't know how accurate that is.
They redesigned the block around 2016 when they moved to a twin scroll turbo and added a water passage too close to the cylinder resulting in a cylinder wall that's too thin and can crack. The pre 2016 2Ls don't seem to suffer from this (or at least not very often). I think the 1.5Ls and 1.6Ls all similarly have weak cylinder walls. If you want more details, Samcrac did a video or two on it since he had a Lincoln with this failure.
These engines tuned with no key can usual withstand up to 500whp before the timing can slip. Those friction washers put in some crazy work. It seems some auto manufacturers believe keyed cranks can lead to being a weak or stress point of failure for the crank there. That's what I've heard but not sure its true for the keyed crank.
I had an fiesta st engine replaced after a blown head gasket, thankfully they did it for free under a recall. this video made me wonder what they did with my old engine because I’m guessing it was still in pretty good shape
Eric I might be a bit new to this channel. I am from South Africa an my name is Jan. It is fun to watch and very interesting. It makes you feel that you can fix anything yourself, you make it look so easy. I most recently watch your video on the Volvo 70 R. What a SCORE! The reason I am writing you back on this video is once again, you show the carbon buildup in the intake port of a direct injection engine. Why does that happen? Most diesel engines are direct injection and why would the carbon bild up in the intake port so much? What causes it to do that and obviously you don't approve and neither do I. Fortunately I drive an ordinary single cab Isuzu pick up KB250 2016 with the Gen 6, 4J engine in it. It seems that I am lucky enough to have port injection as the injectors are to one side outside the valve cover on the intake manifold side. Best Pick up ever. No fuss, relaible and hard working. If you have done an explanation on one of your videos I missed, please send me the link below. Jan
In the Mazdaspeed community I've seen a lot of situations when people replaced all timing parts and even rebuilt engines because of accessories side poor maintenance, AC compressor pulleys and so on. It may be one of those cases with this engine as well.
On keyless sprockets. Cam timing is set by the phasers and cam position sensors. As long as the cams are close enough, the phasers take it from there. Base cam settings are only used at startup when there is no oil pressure. On the engine, plugs were out, seems a compression or leakdown test was done. Maybe it was carbon holding a valve or two open.
Your other 2.0 was what introduced me to your channel. I had just bought a fiesta st and my pops sent me the 2.0 teardown thinking it was what's in the fiesta. Still waiting for that 1.6l ecoboost teardown. I just got a big turbo for mine so if/when it blows up, I think I'd like to send it your way haha.
It's looks like a good one. My thoughts are it was put into an uninsured car that got recked. They pulled the engine out to return for some money back.
There’s a 2.0 ecoboost in Omaha Nebraska U-pull it south lot right now. Last week I scoped the cylinders and pulled the plugs the engine is VERY CLEAN on the inside. And the engine is already out someone took the transmission.
You can't do a Induction Service to the EcoBoost line. At least not with BG products that I know of. The cleaner will eat the seals in the turbo. I have seen the rings get carboned up bad enough that it drops compression and misfires a lot. I have also seen misdiagnosed blown head gaskets or "Bad rings" cause they smoke, when it turns out the seals in the turbo are blown and is dumping either coolant or oil right in to the exhaust.
this is the pre-open-deck design. the more desirable one. no head gasket leak issues, and a bit stronger. Glad to see it healthy, as i have a 2014 ST myself. planning on getting 200k miles or more out of it.
@@thandomthembu4913The first Ford to use the open deck was the 2015 Edge. Most other Ford's started using the 2nd generation, open deck engine from 2017 to 2019. After 2019, revisions were made to correct the coolant issue.
Honestly this goes back to what I’ve said before. I don’t know how much time you have to play around, but in this case if I were you, I’d pay the fee to get the block checked and honed, I’d get a ring, bearing, and gasket kit for it. Put it back together, and sell it as a reman long block.
Anticlimactic but equally entertaining. I second the motion for pre-tear down leak testing. It would also be neat to see the build and use a run test stand. Old school wasn't challenging before ecu but Im sure there's something semi universal that is out there, yeah I don't ask for much.....
Holy shit, my faith in humanity is slightly restored! There is someone out there who does change their oil regularly. That engine looked super clean inside, how they should all look when maintained correctly. But, not getting my hopes up over one engine.
I sold my 2013 fusion with a 2L Ecoboost after a brake line exploded on me, which turned out to be a recall item as of this year, and every oil change it had consumed about 2 quarts of coolant. I liked my fusion, but I figured it was a ticking time bomb.
Good morning as always, thank you for sharing this with us as always Eric. I will have to look at the website to see if you have any of the stuff that I need. Great Sunday morning and enjoy your day today. Thank you for your time, help, and work.
The engine slipped timing from the compression clutch on the shaft. It happens sometimes. The staining is likely from the incorrect timing, fueling has washed the bearings on outside inside. Thats what im gonna go with. The N54/N55/S55 do the same.
I have a NA 2012 2.0, my valve train looked very similar to this. For some reason you do regular oil changes and those valve trains look almost new even after 90K miles.
Should check inside the exhaust port; sometimes the 2.0 ecoboost head cracks inside the port if the engine has run low on coolant and overheated. The port is water jacketed and coolant will leak into the turbo.
I picked up a 5.7 hemi engine with eagle heads for only $200. During my tear down, the only thing I found wrong was wear on the connecting rod caps themselves. The bearings and crank look new. Very odd, never seen it before
Well, I have the non-turbo version of the same thing (even the same year) sitting out in the garage. So, I guess I am encouraged? The transmission is not all that we might hope for, but it has warranty out to something like 150,000 miles. I think I'll keep driving it the 3,000 miles a year that I do now until...
I have been trying to find a 2.3 crank for my 2.0 focus st but they are damn near impossible to find here in Australia, I have always loved the Ecoboost engines but it's a shame they have now made the later ones with a full open deck. The Best combination is the earlier 2.0 block with the closed deck fitted with the 2.3 crank and rods which one day I'm hoping to convert mine to a 2.3. Edit - another reason for the non keyed crank is they can be stronger as well, usually when a crank fails through the nose it usually fails at the key way location however that's usually only an issue on cranks with skinny long noses or when they are subjected to high loads such as driving a supercharger or extremely high rpm where harmonics try and rattle everything to pieces.
The spark plug wires bouncing up from pressure was inexplicably funny to me
Same here. rofl
I thought it was time to play Whack-a-Mole.
Coils, no spark plug wires on these. They are coil on plug.
@@D41Michigan right. My bad. Just the first thing that came to mind LoL.
@@xxprouxx lol your good 👍
As a 34 year retired auto mechanic, shop foreman, etc, If i lived close to Eric, I don t about 700 miles away, I would love to volunteer to help him do these tear downs. I will be there one day cause visiting Eric s shop is on my bucket list. I never miss a video
Yeah, me too. I'd sweep the floors and make great food and get the beers.
Same
A Live Show.... 😮
I'm all in !
Thanks, but that gets creepy when strangers want to show up and be pals
@@mitchhedberg4415
We’re all car lovers, aren’t we?
@@Conservator.without a doubt
Very educational, shows what happens when an engine gets frequent oil changes, man was that engine was very clean! Thanks for sharing Eric!
And regular BK engine flushes would result in much cleaner rings and lands.
yes,,but it was driven like a horse & cart,,not a fkn race engine, like it should of been, direct injection is the problem.. carbon.. de carbon that engine, last forever.. there basically bullitt proof if DRIVEN.
I'm going to say it's the carboned up vales.. it probably was causing a misfire, as well as the staining you see from it possibly being lean.. great video as always!
Yep you beat me to it! I guarantee you that's all that was wrong with this engine probably cylinder two and three weren't making good compression due to carbon and somebody just said the hell with it swap the whole engine instead of fixing it
Yep I have one of these in a 22 Maverick. They are known to carbon up the seats of the valves, been told it's the number one problem. I installed two oil catch cans on the PVC system to help with this issue. I know when he looked in the ports it did not look good, should have removed the valves.
@@richs7362 You also have to consider that its direct infection, and what kind of codes that will bring up while in a starting sequence. Couldn't be good .
Ford, circled the problem
Mine were worse on my 2L EB and I had no misfires. It is possible though.
I think I see what was going on here. The yard sold the customer a perfectly good engine, but customer had driveability issues that they falsely attributed to engine mechanical problems, so they returned it. I'll bet the customer bought another engine after that, and had the same issues.
May missdiagnosed..Turbo failure?
Maybe electronic issues?
@keenanmolver9689 Maybe it was the turbo. Customers are quick to replace things instead of performing accurate troubleshooting techniques
Seen it before, dude replaced an engine and had exact same issue. Catalytic converter was plugged lol
He mentioned a tight spot when 2 and 3 were at the tops of their bores...maybe that was the issue? Mechanical binding can trick the car into throwing a misfire code
Gummed up valves caused low compression and/or leak down. That is why the plugs were out.
thats what I think
valves looked horrid
these do not have hydraulic lifters, the buckets come in several sizes and are matched for a fixed gap. This is fine for 50-60k miles, then it needs adjustment. To do so, the shop has to remove the head, measure the gap, order specific buckets, remove the camshafts, swap the buckets, put the head back together, check the gap (and prey they got it right...), bolt the engine back together.
This costs over $1k to do, takes about 3 days (waiting on parts) during which the shop has a non-driveable car taking up space, so it's rarely done when it's supposed to and the valves and seats get beat to death from the excessive gap, causing compression loss. All because Ford was a cheap c*nt.
@@AKAtheA Jaguar got away with this scheme for 40 years on the XK engine. But it was not meant to be a mass-market engine for the riff-raff who couldn't afford the shop charge and a back-up vehicle. In the design phase some boy wonder must have convinced somebody that through a miraculous new process, wear in the camshaft, bucket, valve, and seat would be eliminated.
It is sad to see so many of the new engines, with so many wonderfully designed and built aspects, have one or two fatal flaws. This is the nature of piling-on so many innovations into one new product: all it takes is one mistake and all that good work goes for nothing. EV buyers should take note and tread cautiously.
@@tomscott1159 Honda (bikes) and Toyota (the legendary 2JZ) use this successfully for years, but in applications where it makes sense - like revving the engine to the moon and back. It's kinda' retarded on an econobox that redlines before 7k RPM, the customer literally gets no benefit here. Whatever was saved on a set of rocker arms and lifters (heck, ditch the lifters if you must, but give it adjustment screws) is eaten by the adjustment procedure...
That engine has the coveted "Whack-A-Mole" option! Seriously, I'm with you on that keyless crankshaft - I think they're saving a dollar by eliminating the keying operation - and gaining several dollars by selling those magic washers. That little pep talk at the end reminded me of a painful lesson I learned as young man : I bought a rim from my local salvage yard, and took it to a tire shop to have a tire mounted on it. The tire shop had the foresight to check the rim, instead of just putting the tire on and sending me on my way - and the rim was warped. So I took the rim back to the salvage yard and they gave me another. This time, I mounted the rim on my Jeep and checked it before going to the tire shop with it - and it was also warped! I went back to the salvage yard for another, and asked them if they had a way of checking them. The gentleman said "We sure do - we sell them to someone like you, and if they bring it back, we know it's bad". Ouch! So glad to know you don't do business like that - and I really enjoy the videos!
Whew! Good to know I'm not the only one with the Whack-a-Mole thought...
I think Eric is wrong in his statement about yards caring about what they sell. The mantra in that biz seems to be "you pays yer munnys and it's yours".
Great story, a little bit sad but it made me smile nonetheless. Tx!
It's called having integrity, or pride in your work. Sadly it is not the norm today. Find the good guys out there and stick with them! Also spread the word about them!
@@damienvillano4044
💯
I rented a 2018 Focus ST in Germany and drove several Alpine passes with it, 2 laps on the Nurburgring, and cruised at 140+ mph on the Autobahn. Great car and great engine/trans combo. Even the Recaro seats were excellent (if you're under 200 lbs).
They are good cars but the engine does have its limits. They can't be pushed too much as the pistons and rods are only safe for around 300-310hp (at least for uk build focus st250). However, the block is pretty strong.
I weigh 240 an the seats are fine for me mine was great for 5 years I gave it to my son for his 16th bday an bought a type r
20 years as an OEM Ford tech here, and I enjoy all of your video's, and have even learned a few things off of a few of them! Spot on with the outro about the industry, I see so many mis-diagnosed things come in for repair with sometimes a few thousand dollars of parts store coils/PCM's/ect hung on them over what usually turns out to be a few hundred dollar fix, it's sometimes unbelievable. Proper diagnosis is the most critical part of any repair as you have stated, especially with the complexity of modern vehicles.
The key thing is just them saving money by not machining the cranks and the pulleys for a key. I've been a machinist for many years and key ways usually have a .001 tolerance on the width and key and the location is also usually a plus or minus 1 degree tolerance. The current machining rate (my shop) is about $145 an hour so if they can save that for the millions of cranks they produce, that;s a huge amount saved.
I worked for a car manufacturer as a trainer and field support. When theb keyways went away in the early 90s the info was that tolerance drift and market emissions adaptability were why gears quit being keyed. The cam setup and crank positioning was blueprinted like hotrodders have done for ages. If deck height or cylinder deck to cam centers varied then it was handled. If turbo and non-turbo engines had two ideal cam setups then the robots and the dealer service tools handled it.
Your hitting the sweet spot.
Isn't slotting one of the more expensive processes? Like, the joke I picked up is that the best way to make money with a slotting machine is to not buy one.
Will leak-downs make their way into teardown videos before they come apart after this experience? Might add a few minutes to each video, but it would definitely help explain the situation too.
I suppose it may on engines with no obvious problems
@@I_Do_Cars the fact that 2 and 3 were not making enough compression to pop the coils out was concerning. wonder if the customer did a compression test and found that 2 and 3 were low. if the rods are compressed even just a bit, or even a bit bent, it would lead to poor running because of lower compression.
@@chubbysumo2230- yep. Could have idled just a tiny bit rough due to even the carbon build up on the valves and was declared as “not good enough” and pulled back out. 🤷🏻♂️
@@I_Do_Cars As others have said, the coils not popping on some cylinders could be due to low compression, but could just be you didn't crank it at the same speed on those cylinders. Stuck rings looks to be the most likely cause. The engine otherwise looked barely bed in. Bearings initially look bad then improve in the first 100 hours.
@@I_Do_Cars old bikes, 1930,s had cone clamping.& machines,, easier manufacturing, never had any probs with them. &, id say harleys still use it, cos there pre historic relics of bikes.. i have a focus, tdi. 2.0. goes like a cut cat..5 lt 100. 08..ausie..
I in no way feel shorted if your teardown reveals an operable engine. It was an interesting video, Eric.
Wow 2 years since the last 2.0? Feels like 10 months ago. Time sure flies when you work hard! Keep it up.
I could care less if the engine being torn down is bad or good. A good engine is better for Eric, so as long as I get to watch a teardown I'm happy.
Big turbo on my ST pushing 70k miles now 👍🏻 love this car so easy to work on!!
My expectations of Ford are very low and then to have a seemingly good engine torn apart was rather shocking. Nice to see someone actually did oil changes. The engine was super clean.
These are great little engines. Very reliable for the power output.
Ford makes some of the most durable engines around…
@@newfie-dean5803just if you neglect the transmission in the slightest bit. Or look at if funny. Sad things happen
Mad respect Eric. I've worked at yards that sold engines that we were never able to test. You have integrity and standards. Please keep being you
2014 ST owner! Saw your last video about this engine, one of the most clean tear downs on the channel
Oh yeah an engine in that condition could most definitely be rebuilt. I was not expecting a teardown like this. What also made my day was the high pitched voice. Not making fun but the editing with that was great. Great job as always Eric.
18:10 was waiting for u to tap the tops of the pistons w ur mallet like u usually do before proceding especially since u noted #2 and 3 seemed tight at the top of the stroke.
I have a Duratech 2.0 in a 2005 Ford Focus and I have 138,000 miles on it. I have changed the valve cover and gasket, plugs, and coils. I noticed, when I was in there, that I will have to change the timing chain in the next 40-50,000 miles and it seems to be a pretty simple job. It uses the same "diamond" washer on the crank so you have to have a tool to keep the crank in the correct position and a bar on the head to keep the cams in place. Other than it being a tight fit, doing it in the car, it is really a simple job. I have no complaints with this engine. It is much better than the new "wet belt" system Ford is using now.
Dude you're my favorite person who takes engine's apart just to find out why it's there, I'm sure other people do it but they are not as entertaining, I'll say I have a 2.3 version of that engine and I'm glad to hear all of it's shortcomings and why it's bad, I'm glad to know What to look for, you tearing down engine's shows us what to look for and how to fix it before it blows up
I appreciate this video, even though the engine wasn't broken. I own a 2014 Focus ST, and this video was really helpful for me. The internals look far more stout than I was expecting, so I guess I can feel good about leaning on mine a little harder in future. I do wish that they had port injection to limit in the inlet valve fouling, aside from that I'm really pleased wit mine, it does everything advertised on the outside of the tin.
Spray some Seafoam past the air filter and it'll help clean that stuff off
@@Ar0d The ideal thing is to get it into port if possible. 69000 km on mine, no stutter yet, but it must be coming 🤔
The engine looked well engineered and maintained.
Listening to your last comments on this video is exactly why i like watching your channel..and i like Listening to you
I got up and poured a glass of Bourbon while i let a 2:00 ad for Pillow Cube play in its entirety.
Showing love, friend!
Eric, I think you forgot to check for disconnecting rods. I always look forward for that test.
I was thinking the same thing,
He did manually try to move the big end of the rods though. 18:00
Channel is very informative and entertaining. You seem like one of those rare business owners who actually give a shit about its customers, very refreshing to see.
This is same engine with my 2015 Ford Explorer ecoboost. With regular change oil and ATF. So far no issues and drives like a dream.
Awesome video, very detailed, however what you referred to as the Cruise Control System (hose assembly) is actually the Vapor Canister Purge Valve Assembly, which when fail will push a P1450 Code
I think the first clue was when the coils on cyl 2 and 3 didn't pop up like 1 and 4 did.... maybe valves not seating properly as others have stated...
Exactly my thoughts after seeing that demonstration at the beginning (and then the lack of obvious damage otherwise later on to offer an alternative cause of loss of compression on 2+3)
The only other option I see is incorrect clamping force on the head in those areas with the less tight head bolts (located around the area between 2 and 3), assuming the mating surfaces and gaskets were all in spec.
i have a 2014 fusion with the vel 2.0 engine... 173000 miles on it.. change the oil with full syn every 6-7000 miles..put in 6 quarts and get back almost all of it. .minus a oz or two.. has a tune on it est power it about 280-285.. very quick and in cruise at 70 mph..i get 34/35 mpg.. here in the flat road os sacrament.. but can easily crest donner summit at 90 mph.. to go fly fishing.. the car and this engine is great.. never o issue from new
194000 ish miles now
when you took out them 2 bolts from head that seemed loose... you think someone opened then closed them back or they were poor tight from factory ? gasket looked ok-ish but could have been a week spot on 2-3 ... specially when they bang same time ...
Iv owed a Mazda 6i with the 2.3 auto for over 6yrs with roughly 185k. It’s a great work car. Zero driveline issues. Just bought a 13 ST with 70k. These two motor blocks being so similar gives me a lot of confidence. Thank you for the info.
Have a 2013 Escape with the 2.0 and still running great after 150k miles. Oil changed every 5k full synthetic. Only issue now is an engine light for over boost. Trying to diagnose it at the moment.
I very much like that this is a family friendly channel. I can refer kids to this channel without hesitation. Thanks for leaving the machismo behind. Your channel is great! Thank you very much - it takes a lot to make a good video, let alone a great one!
Stopped the video at 20:30 to post this and will finish it in a minute but I have to say that from what I've seen so far is that there was probably a fuel delivery problem causing the carbon build up around the ring lands which if true, it was probably smoking through the exhaust system making the vehicle owner think that the motor was bad.
Unfortunate to see a good $3,000+ used motor go to waste but then again, you could freshen it up with new rings, bearings and polishing and maybe get $4k out of it.
Outstanding videos BTW. Thank you! 😎
Great to see a 2.0 teardown. I'm hoping for a 2.0 Ecotec Turbo Chevrolet teardown. I always look forward to your Saturday night videos!
I love that you commented on the non keyed crank. My opinion…. Anyone who has worked on a fusion, or any other modern car without the use of a two post lift will often pull the crank pulley to make room to pull the engine away from the transmission and out the top. I would assume that that was done on this engine. So, the timing was enough off that the engine ran poorly, or not at all, but not far enough off that pistons dusted the valves. It happens on these engines. I would encourage any backyard mechanic to purchase a book or subscription to a reputable repair site before attacking a project of this scope. Unfortunately, if this is the case, the seller ended up taking the financial hit for a beginners’ mistake.
Engine looked great.
Just short of 250k miles on mine.
If you are having misfire and stalling issues at idle, check the fuel tank purge solenoid; they fail open and allow fuel vapors to be sucked into the engine at idle which is overwhelming. Not an issue under boost, but a big issue at idle. Dirty intake valves don't help. I have had two solenoids fail in 11 years so far on the same vehicle (ford parts, not aftermarket).
Hey, it's worth mentioning that from 2017 to 2019 a different block was used in fusion, escape and edge. 2.0 in the ST was always closed deck, while from 2017 in the models mentioned, Ford used open deck design and instead of improving cooling, they caused problems with head gasket failures (mostly between cyl 1 and 2) and mentioned cracking of the block.
when guys do big power rs builds they use this block for the strength. mine is stroked to 2.3 and forged…
The 2015 Edge was the first to use the 2nd generation, open deck design.
12:22 I think it’s the 2.3L Ecoboost like in the Focus RS and Mustang that’ll crack at the cylinder walls. They have thinner cylinder walls because they carved out bigger area for antifreeze to flow through to cool the engine better (open deck). Trade off is once you started adding more boost to those blocks or anything weird happens….crack.
in 2017 (I think), they cut or drilled a passage between 1,2 and 3,4 for cooling, but it caused head gasket problems, overheating, and cracked blocks. This 2015 did not have that cut. If you go back and look, there is very little room to begin with.
@@ifixthings86 Damn I really hope not lol. I have a 17 Focus ST over a year ago now, I plan to start adding some power to it soon. When I bought it I did a lot of research and figured I would be safe with the ST's 2.0L. I hope they didn't build some 2.0 Ecoboost's with passages and some without in 2017. If that's the case, hopefully I get lucky or something lol.
@@Yoshimatsu414if I recall correctly, ST’s do not have the issue as they used the same engine/head design throughout their production run. Other 2017+ Fords with the 2.0 Ecoboost got the “updated” head and gasket configuration.
@@ALMX5DP OK cool that's the conclusion I came to before I bought the ST. Was thinking about the RS but it was like $15K more and prone to the cracking blocks. I don't think it's worth the price different if I'd have to also change the block to start adding more power and not worry too much.
Car is meticulously taken care of and infrequently driven, then gets plowed from behind and totaled. Yard sells the engine as used good. New owner does a compression and/or leak down test and #2 and #3 fail, and so returns the engine. All that was wrong with it was the carbon on the rings and valves. Sounds plausible at least.
I'd like to give a trophy to the original owner, that engine was f'n GORGEOUS inside. Well, except those intake valves...
I think you might have my old motor.
About a year ago I bought a 14 focus st. Next day started a straight up misfire on cylinder 1. I figured that it was just a dead plug/ignition coil but rather than trying to fix it I brought it back to the Ford dealership and they ended up just replacing the engine. The day I got the car I put fresh oil in it as well as a motorcraft oil filter.
I know you said the date code was 2015 but I have to wonder if this was that engine. It's not unheard of for STs to get new motors after a previous owner blew the stock one up with either poor driving or bad tune.
Been working on fords 10 years master tech. Replaced many 1.5 ecoboost for a design flaw in the engine block. Coolant would go into the cylinder(s). Most of the time it would set a check engine misfire code and the degas bottle will be low to empty. Replace a few 2.0 ecoboost but mainly the 1.5 had the most problems.
Thanks for the video.
WOW that van, really need a video about how it got that way.
It never sucks! Your videos are always good.
Video is good product is the problem
I've had a few of these. Ran them way past 200,000 miles. My only problem is people crashing into me.
Would you recommend a first time car buyer to purchase a 2016 ST with 90000 miles? Really love this car and if it will never leave me stranded at the road side, I would love buying it.
@@thandomthembu4913 Did you get it? Those ST had a strong, reliable powertrain
Valve timing with vvt engines is generally "close enough" as it floats around. So long as its in a safe range
Say Eric… Anyone ever suggest attatching a piece of 5 or 7 ply plywood to the tops of the stand legs (with appropriate holes cut out) so that your drain pan sits above the legs and not between ‘em. Might make your job a lil easier and keep your floor a lil cleaner.
I don't know what it is, but there's something really therapeutic about sitting on your couch and watching somebody else turn wrenches after battling with it yourself all day.
Those engines had a problem with the block casting being to porous. Coolant would leak through the cylinder walls into the combustion chamber and be burned. The official Ford solution was to replace the engine. They had a recall to add a low coolant switch to the system to alert the driver of coolant loss. We had one in our 2017 escape. The problem showed up on ours with just over 30K miles. We kept a close eye on it since the engine ran fine otherwise and we would have to top off the coolant once or twice a year. We put just under 100K miles on it before trading it in. There were no external coolant leaks. Ford did replace some engines under warranty.
I don't think that affected this generation of 2L engine, it was the 1.5/1.6L ones and the later 2Ls with the twin scroll turbo (from about 2016).
I used to work at a place that rebuilt parts and engines and I can tell you that we got a lot of returns of parts that tested good on the test stands. Maybe incompetence or maybe a little bit of fraud going on? We got a lot of good alternators back as defective. We also bought cores that were almost new and we loved those. Just about all the parts we good and reusable, though we put new brushes and bearings in everything.
12:30 The 'first gen' 2.0L EcoBoost was partially mentioned in the TSB Ford put out for coolant intrusion (15-16 Fusions and Escapes) when it was originally issued, but the TSB (19-2172) was revised ~2 weeks after initial issue to remove those applications. The Focus ST never got the 2nd gen engine (at least not for NADM production); why that is the case is unknown.
The TSB doesn't say WHY the 2nd gen engines have coolant intrusion problems, but the general consensus is that the block and head castings have porosity issues.
You know your Fords
@@12345....... it helps that I've got a 2015 Fusion with this engine, so I made a point of learning a few things about them (and buying a subscription to AlldataDIY).
I will say that I have heard of coolant intrusion issues on 1st gen 2.0Ls, but there doesn't seem to be much, if any, rhyme or reason to it. A coworker of mine had a 2014 FoST (and the car was modded, though it was all bolt-ons IIRC) that started misfiring out of nowhere, and when he pulled the plugs, they were wet with coolant; he got rid of the car. One guy in the Fusion group I'm in on Facebook went through 2-3 engines on his car; conversely, another guy in the same group has over 200k on his and its the original engine; both cars are modded IIRC. Mine has been fine despite a minor overheat scare on Tail of the Dragon 2 years ago that I still haven't conclusively identified a cause for.
Aside from the keyless crank, this seems like a well designed little engine that's easy to work on.
I have a 1.6 eco boost in my fiesta, I recently upgraded the turbo and about a month ago I started to get misfires at idle, they were pretty noticeable and car ran rough at times but never illuminated a CEL. After new plugs and coils and doing a misfire profile correction with no help I decided to clean the valves. The valves looked like the ones here. I manually cleaned them and the misfires were completely gone
the industry you are in looks like fun, that eco boost motor looked ok, thanks for the vid sir
Im gonna go with low compression, hence the difference in tightness of the head bolts which probably caused vibration issues. I notice a bit of skirt wear on a few of the pistons as you were examining them which would explain the minor wear in the crank journals. I would say who ever put this engine back together did a great job except they probably forgot or didn't do a great job of calibrating their torque wrench when tightening the head bolts. It's the minor details that make engine building so difficult to reproduce the same reliability of the oems. Probably ran amazing for the first 20 or 30k.
Love the channel! It's greatly appreciated
I love your videos they are relaxing and informational keep em coming bud love all that you do
Thanks for another great video Eric! Could we get a VW 2.0 CR TDI on the engine stand? Particularly engine code CJAA if you come across one.
That was interesting. Doesn't really teach me much because the most "up to date" engine I have ever owned is the 400,000 mile Red Block 2.3 litre SOHC in my 1990 Volvo 240. Doesn't even leak or use oil to any noticeable degree. 4 litres in, 3.9 litres comes out. Since Arthur is a one family car the entire history is known. First car I have seen with 33 years and 400,000 miles on the steering rack, inner tie rod ends, antisway bar bushings, Panhard Rod bushings, and even one ball joint. Factory springs, although the front struts were done about 25 years ago. Rear shocks have been done 3 times. The car is eternal
" Don't worry, I'm a professional ."
" Where is Blue & Hammer ? "
" That was violent ! "
I love ya man 😊
Wow, great way to check relative compression, take the plugs out, stick the coils back in and spin it see how high they jump! Great!
Nothing that stands out, but I wonder if it was junked for TSB 19-2346, which is what killed my ST's engine that had otherwise been basically maintenance free for 180k miles and, no, I never had a single issue with performance, mileage, or drivability and I never installed any catch cans or used any valve cleaning snake oil. Whatever carbon build up was there was not an issue or maybe it's just that frequent Italian tune ups really do work. In my case, the engine ended up blowing massive clouds of white smoke, but otherwise ran perfectly (including coolant temp and loss rate was slow, plus no CELs). Thought it was turbo coolant leak, but it wasn't. Discovered the TSB that lists the fix for that symptom and similar to be replacing the long block. According to what I could find on a class action suit write up, it seems there's some kind of design or manufacturing defect that allows coolant to get into cylinders 2 and/or 3. It is not the head gasket and will not exhibit signs of such beyond burning coolant, but I don't know if it's a block or head related issue. I would imagine block, but perhaps the risk of more extensive damage remaining after head replacement plus the labor involved with that makes long block replacement a safer bet. Pretty much all the closed deck Ecoboost 4s of all displacements are listed in the TSB (except, strangely, the Focus ST specifically seems to have been left out, though I imagine due to limited production and typical usage of either low mileage babying that haven't encountered the problem yet or abuse that blows them up sooner limits the reports of failure). Supposedly, the issue was rectified in a 2018 redesign of some sort according to something I read, but I don't know how accurate that is.
They redesigned the block around 2016 when they moved to a twin scroll turbo and added a water passage too close to the cylinder resulting in a cylinder wall that's too thin and can crack. The pre 2016 2Ls don't seem to suffer from this (or at least not very often). I think the 1.5Ls and 1.6Ls all similarly have weak cylinder walls.
If you want more details, Samcrac did a video or two on it since he had a Lincoln with this failure.
@@nicholasvinen Thanks, though mine was a 2015. Maybe there was some overlap with production changeover.
These engines tuned with no key can usual withstand up to 500whp before the timing can slip. Those friction washers put in some crazy work. It seems some auto manufacturers believe keyed cranks can lead to being a weak or stress point of failure for the crank there. That's what I've heard but not sure its true for the keyed crank.
I had an fiesta st engine replaced after a blown head gasket, thankfully they did it for free under a recall. this video made me wonder what they did with my old engine because I’m guessing it was still in pretty good shape
Eric
I might be a bit new to this channel. I am from South Africa an my name is Jan. It is fun to watch and very interesting. It makes you feel that you can fix anything yourself, you make it look so easy. I most recently watch your video on the Volvo 70 R. What a SCORE!
The reason I am writing you back on this video is once again, you show the carbon buildup in the intake port of a direct injection engine. Why does that happen? Most diesel engines are direct injection and why would the carbon bild up in the intake port so much? What causes it to do that and obviously you don't approve and neither do I.
Fortunately I drive an ordinary single cab Isuzu pick up KB250 2016 with the Gen 6, 4J engine in it. It seems that I am lucky enough to have port injection as the injectors are to one side outside the valve cover on the intake manifold side. Best Pick up ever. No fuss, relaible and hard working.
If you have done an explanation on one of your videos I missed, please send me the link below.
Jan
In the Mazdaspeed community I've seen a lot of situations when people replaced all timing parts and even rebuilt engines because of accessories side poor maintenance, AC compressor pulleys and so on. It may be one of those cases with this engine as well.
On keyless sprockets. Cam timing is set by the phasers and cam position sensors. As long as the cams are close enough, the phasers take it from there. Base cam settings are only used at startup when there is no oil pressure. On the engine, plugs were out, seems a compression or leakdown test was done. Maybe it was carbon holding a valve or two open.
I like Eric holding the chain saying "Yes Yes" and you can almost hear the dollar signs
I would love to see if you could get ahold of a 2.0 ecotec. Either an LNF or LSJ. They do differ a bit from each other.
Still absolutely loving your tear down videos and your often successful attempts to get those lost cause engines to run. Thank you.
As demonstrated in the closing scene, with the proper amount of force; everything comes apart.
Your other 2.0 was what introduced me to your channel. I had just bought a fiesta st and my pops sent me the 2.0 teardown thinking it was what's in the fiesta. Still waiting for that 1.6l ecoboost teardown. I just got a big turbo for mine so if/when it blows up, I think I'd like to send it your way haha.
It's looks like a good one. My thoughts are it was put into an uninsured car that got recked. They pulled the engine out to return for some money back.
This is the second perfectly good ST motor. Does that speak well for this engine? My son just bought one so we'll see!
Best looking engine on this channel so far. It seemed fine.
There’s a 2.0 ecoboost in Omaha Nebraska U-pull it south lot right now. Last week I scoped the cylinders and pulled the plugs the engine is VERY CLEAN on the inside. And the engine is already out someone took the transmission.
You can't do a Induction Service to the EcoBoost line. At least not with BG products that I know of. The cleaner will eat the seals in the turbo. I have seen the rings get carboned up bad enough that it drops compression and misfires a lot. I have also seen misdiagnosed blown head gaskets or "Bad rings" cause they smoke, when it turns out the seals in the turbo are blown and is dumping either coolant or oil right in to the exhaust.
this is the pre-open-deck design. the more desirable one. no head gasket leak issues, and a bit stronger. Glad to see it healthy, as i have a 2014 ST myself. planning on getting 200k miles or more out of it.
Which year did they stop producing the pre-open deck design?
@@thandomthembu4913The first Ford to use the open deck was the 2015 Edge. Most other Ford's started using the 2nd generation, open deck engine from 2017 to 2019. After 2019, revisions were made to correct the coolant issue.
You always provide good info on engines that have not much feedback.
Honestly this goes back to what I’ve said before. I don’t know how much time you have to play around, but in this case if I were you, I’d pay the fee to get the block checked and honed, I’d get a ring, bearing, and gasket kit for it. Put it back together, and sell it as a reman long block.
Anticlimactic but equally entertaining. I second the motion for pre-tear down leak testing. It would also be neat to see the build and use a run test stand. Old school wasn't challenging before ecu but Im sure there's something semi universal that is out there, yeah I don't ask for much.....
Holy shit, my faith in humanity is slightly restored! There is someone out there who does change their oil regularly. That engine looked super clean inside, how they should all look when maintained correctly. But, not getting my hopes up over one engine.
Do any holes in the oil pump pulley line up with a dimple/hole on the pump for a pin to hold it?
I sold my 2013 fusion with a 2L Ecoboost after a brake line exploded on me, which turned out to be a recall item as of this year, and every oil change it had consumed about 2 quarts of coolant. I liked my fusion, but I figured it was a ticking time bomb.
Good morning as always, thank you for sharing this with us as always Eric. I will have to look at the website to see if you have any of the stuff that I need. Great Sunday morning and enjoy your day today. Thank you for your time, help, and work.
Dam! That van had a bad day, I hope no one was in it when the side was removed.
Great video as usual, thanks for sharing with us!
@ 22:34 Alright! We get to see your actual office!
The engine slipped timing from the compression clutch on the shaft. It happens sometimes. The staining is likely from the incorrect timing, fueling has washed the bearings on outside inside. Thats what im gonna go with. The N54/N55/S55 do the same.
I have a NA 2012 2.0, my valve train looked very similar to this. For some reason you do regular oil changes and those valve trains look almost new even after 90K miles.
The service manual actually says you can reuse the diamond friction washer for the crank as long as it appears to be in good condition.
I owed one of these, biggest issues were boost leaks and pistons 1 and 4 like to eat piston rings when tuned
There are some people who take very good care of their engines and some who don't..The basic maintenance on your motor is very,very,important..
Should check inside the exhaust port; sometimes the 2.0 ecoboost head cracks inside the port if the engine has run low on coolant and overheated. The port is water jacketed and coolant will leak into the turbo.
I picked up a 5.7 hemi engine with eagle heads for only $200. During my tear down, the only thing I found wrong was wear on the connecting rod caps themselves. The bearings and crank look new. Very odd, never seen it before
Well, I have the non-turbo version of the same thing (even the same year) sitting out in the garage. So, I guess I am encouraged? The transmission is not all that we might hope for, but it has warranty out to something like 150,000 miles. I think I'll keep driving it the 3,000 miles a year that I do now until...
I have been trying to find a 2.3 crank for my 2.0 focus st but they are damn near impossible to find here in Australia, I have always loved the Ecoboost engines but it's a shame they have now made the later ones with a full open deck.
The Best combination is the earlier 2.0 block with the closed deck fitted with the 2.3 crank and rods which one day I'm hoping to convert mine to a 2.3.
Edit - another reason for the non keyed crank is they can be stronger as well, usually when a crank fails through the nose it usually fails at the key way location however that's usually only an issue on cranks with skinny long noses or when they are subjected to high loads such as driving a supercharger or extremely high rpm where harmonics try and rattle everything to pieces.
No worries, the mystery of this engine makes it entertaining. The range of comments on its engineering, possible failure, and return is a good read.
Dangerously close to the 2.3 ecoboost from the s550 teardown I’ll keep beggin for it lol. Love the content bro