I just came across your video. Nicely done! Next time you need to bend thick material, just take a cut-off wheel and cut down until there's about 1/16" left. Then you can bend it by hand, fill in the gap with weld and grind it down smooth. Doing it like this is easy, gives you a nice crisp bend line and it's easy to get both sides exactly the same.
RE:. No cutting torch you can make a forge quite easily. use a shopvac that has a reverse function as your blower. a piece of pipe attached to the end of the hose, and make the air blow up into a pile of charcoal. you can just bury the pipe in the ground and make a bowl shaped depression over the pipe. fill it with charcoal (the lump kind, not briquettes), and you can melt steel for the price of a bag of charcoal and a 20 dollar shopvac. You really don' t even need charcoal. You can use regular coal by slowly working it from the outside to the middle. it cokes itself on the way into the middle, and you don't want to actually melt the steel anyway.
Shop vac blows way too much air, you need to throttle it down thru a real small orifice or just use a smaller blower. I used a fan from a pellet stove. Works great but even that needs to be turned down a bit to work
Not that it matters much now, but I made a forge with an old Mack brake drum my buddy gave me. Put some sheet metal in the bottom(metal is hard to find where I am), and ran some pipe into that for a blower. We always used charcoal because we are cheap. The forge cost probably 90 bucks, which sucks, but like I said we didn't have anything laying around to use.
You did very well with your build, the only thing I might be concerned with is your hydraulic press, when you can see the channel iron bending that much things can slip and be very dangerous. Try doing what the Mo-ron suggests and it will be a lot safer. Just Sayin,....
You can still get the 27 inches you want, just bend it again 3 inches aft. The limit is only the curvature of your bends, not the total angle over the length.
One of the joints did "tighten" up. I think the socket shrunk oddly as it cooled down. They make them with a stub shaft, which would be easier to weld I would think.
Sparta the table is made out of old bed frames. The top is a random piece of scrap. Throw on some casters and a $4 vice from and auction and there you go.
Your material is not even close to hot enough. Always heat the out side of a bend because that is stretching. If you have a blacksmith shop near you they can bend these bars very easily to your exact specifications.
I just came across your video. Nicely done! Next time you need to bend thick material, just take a cut-off wheel and cut down until there's about 1/16" left. Then you can bend it by hand, fill in the gap with weld and grind it down smooth. Doing it like this is easy, gives you a nice crisp bend line and it's easy to get both sides exactly the same.
Great work my friend. 😀 l have to hone my welding skill, best tool in a shop.
RE:. No cutting torch
you can make a forge quite easily. use a shopvac that has a reverse function as your blower. a piece of pipe attached to the end of the hose, and make the air blow up into a pile of charcoal. you can just bury the pipe in the ground and make a bowl shaped depression over the pipe. fill it with charcoal (the lump kind, not briquettes), and you can melt steel for the price of a bag of charcoal and a 20 dollar shopvac.
You really don' t even need charcoal. You can use regular coal by slowly working it from the outside to the middle. it cokes itself on the way into the middle, and you don't want to actually melt the steel anyway.
Shop vac blows way too much air, you need to throttle it down thru a real small orifice or just use a smaller blower. I used a fan from a pellet stove. Works great but even that needs to be turned down a bit to work
Not that it matters much now, but I made a forge with an old Mack brake drum my buddy gave me. Put some sheet metal in the bottom(metal is hard to find where I am), and ran some pipe into that for a blower. We always used charcoal because we are cheap. The forge cost probably 90 bucks, which sucks, but like I said we didn't have anything laying around to use.
You did very well with your build, the only thing I might be concerned with is your hydraulic press, when you can see the channel iron bending that much things can slip and be very dangerous. Try doing what the Mo-ron suggests and it will be a lot safer. Just Sayin,....
Nice work, another option would be to buy a more generic 3 point hitch kit (maybe a Kubota etc.) And modify it to suit the John Deere.
Rugg makes one for Deere and it's pretty reasonable! I just had to be difficult and see if I could make it myself.
That should work for the JD 316 / 318 too.
Yes it will. You can purchase aftermarket 3 points for these tractors. I'm just too cheap so built my own!!
Just a question. 1:40 Would it be worth a try to unchuck the hole saw and rotate it 180 degrees in the chuck?
I suppose I could have tried that
You can still get the 27 inches you want, just bend it again 3 inches aft. The limit is only the curvature of your bends, not the total angle over the length.
Nice build, did the heat from welding mess up the bearings at all??
One of the joints did "tighten" up. I think the socket shrunk oddly as it cooled down. They make them with a stub shaft, which would be easier to weld I would think.
I want to make one of these now Don't know what to get
That would depend on what size implements you're wanting to use and what size 3 point ball swivels your tractor is set up for.
Can you tell us about your welding cart/table?
Sparta the table is made out of old bed frames. The top is a random piece of scrap. Throw on some casters and a $4 vice from and auction and there you go.
@@SkylarHillShop Thank you!
Your material is not even close to hot enough. Always heat the out side of a bend because that is stretching. If you have a blacksmith shop near you they can bend these bars very easily to your exact specifications.
good to know.