If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
my friend, did you ever do the transmission clutch on the black mini? after doing both jobs, would you recommend me removing the engine and transmission for a tranny rebuild, or just the trans? Thanks.
Just want to say a huge thank you for the videos, Im 23 female with only a small amount of car knowledge and i was able to remove & replace my mini engine on my own! Huge thanks as you saved me a small fortune
Thanks for the video. It’s such a lovely simple car to work on. I’m pulling the engine out of mine to do the clutch and timing chain. Also gonna change all the leaky gaskets. Thanks for all the info and tips. Great video
@@CoatsandGaiters I am currently working on my R50 (2005 model) and I would be happy to share with you some pictures of my project! Should I do it on insta?
Thank you. I was surprised as I think MINI use anti seize on them according to the manual but when I had a Suzuki They apparently were coated in a special paste that locks them in permanently for some reason. That was a Vitara and to buy a new DPF meant another £400 on 2 oxygen sensors which meant it would be over £3,000 !!!!! car was only worth £2,000. Tried an after market one first but the sensors didn't want to thread in properly so fear of damaging a £200 oxygen sensor I called it a day on it.
Mark- where does the ABS harness go to? I can see it tucks up behind a plastic shield behind the hydraulic pipes? I want to check continuity of the wires to the ABS plug.
Hi Patrick your ahead on me on that one but looking at the manual there is a fuse box behind the left panel in the passenger foot well and the BCM (body control module) is in the footwell behind the trim by the bottom corner of the door on the drivers side. Hope this helps. The brake system has a few devices inside the car including a motion sensor behind the handbrake lever.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks, Yes I know these2 points- I was noticing how you unpluggesd and gathered up the wiring and was looking to see if I could see a loom feeding the ABS as I know it has some connection to the engine compartment fuse-box.
@@patrickjmorgan Just tried to have a look under the plastic panel on the bulkhead and it possibly ties into the main wiring loom from the engine fuse box to inside the car cabin. Sorry I cannot be much more help at the moment.
Thank you for the comment. Sorry I probably didn't explain very well. In my last few videos I removed the ABS module and soldered it but it's still faulty. In the mean time my OBD scanner packed up and I don't have the funds to buy a replacement ABS module or a new scan tool so effectively the car is now off the road. So to make use of the car I have decided to remove the engine as I haven't removed a MINI one before. I'm doing it just to learn and to help others if they need to remove their engine. Better than the MINI just sitting in the barn.
@@CoatsandGaiters £25 worth of ABS module turned up via hermes this am. If you use a small ratchet spanner and a t20, you can remove the ABS part/board and not break into the hydraulic circuit . Car now fixed, and ill drop a note on the mini forum as it took inside an hour and no bleeding. Many poor souls will have been ripped off when its only the electronic that fails. I knew it had to be, as the light came on the dash after POS (power on self test) Thanks for your interst and good to have confirmed you can replace the board as i followed your articles/film which were so helpful- thanks Mark.
@@patrickjmorgan That's great news Patrick. Well done. So did you just buy a new board off ebay? was it a matching model number etc? as I read some need to be recoded if they are slightly different in programming. I expect the MINI can be quite hard on them with vibration as the suspension is pretty stiff on a MINI for hadling.
@@CoatsandGaiters No, it wasnt thr same number . My old one was a 6757062 and what i bought was a 6760265- so, not a million miles away and someone on the coast near here (Herne Bay- a Dealer) was selling a '265' stating it was compatable- so i opted for the cheapest one i could find, given that I could bet mine rebuilt by the specialists for 150. The car now does what its supposed to do- lights on the dash all on at ignition 2 and go off when started. handbrake light come on when called for. I cut the cover off to see if there was any obvious blown chips , but there isnt. The sensor might be duff- but as you know, its on the other side of the board and i didnt try to force my board out.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
my friend, did you ever do the transmission clutch on the black mini? after doing both jobs, would you recommend me removing the engine and transmission for a tranny rebuild, or just the trans? Thanks.
Just want to say a huge thank you for the videos, Im 23 female with only a small amount of car knowledge and i was able to remove & replace my mini engine on my own! Huge thanks as you saved me a small fortune
That's great news and very well done to you.
Magnificent work mate. Very well explained. Thank you
Thank you
Thanks for the heads up,I’m changing my manifold and exhaust soon,I’m sure I’ll be back for references along the way 👍🏻
Thank you for the comment. I might be doing an exhaust back pressure test video soon as well to check the cat isn't hindering performance.
Thanks for the video. It’s such a lovely simple car to work on. I’m pulling the engine out of mine to do the clutch and timing chain. Also gonna change all the leaky gaskets. Thanks for all the info and tips. Great video
Thank you for the comment. I like them. They seem quite fun to work on. Hope all goes well for you.
the best mechanic
I wouldn't go that far but thank you.
Anazing video! Loved it
Thank you for that Iron Vet
@@CoatsandGaiters I am currently working on my R50 (2005 model) and I would be happy to share with you some pictures of my project! Should I do it on insta?
Those lambda sensors came so easily! Sometime it's a destructive way. Good luck signs for the rest :D
Thank you. I was surprised as I think MINI use anti seize on them according to the manual but when I had a Suzuki They apparently were coated in a special paste that locks them in permanently for some reason. That was a Vitara and to buy a new DPF meant another £400 on 2 oxygen sensors which meant it would be over £3,000 !!!!! car was only worth £2,000. Tried an after market one first but the sensors didn't want to thread in properly so fear of damaging a £200 oxygen sensor I called it a day on it.
very good job
Thank you
Mark- where does the ABS harness go to? I can see it tucks up behind a plastic shield behind the hydraulic pipes? I want to check continuity of the wires to the ABS plug.
Hi Patrick your ahead on me on that one but looking at the manual there is a fuse box behind the left panel in the passenger foot well and the BCM (body control module) is in the footwell behind the trim by the bottom corner of the door on the drivers side. Hope this helps. The brake system has a few devices inside the car including a motion sensor behind the handbrake lever.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks, Yes I know these2 points- I was noticing how you unpluggesd and gathered up the wiring and was looking to see if I could see a loom feeding the ABS as I know it has some connection to the engine compartment fuse-box.
@@patrickjmorgan Just tried to have a look under the plastic panel on the bulkhead and it possibly ties into the main wiring loom from the engine fuse box to inside the car cabin. Sorry I cannot be much more help at the moment.
I dont quite get why you're removing the engine to get at the abs module??
Thank you for the comment. Sorry I probably didn't explain very well. In my last few videos I removed the ABS module and soldered it but it's still faulty. In the mean time my OBD scanner packed up and I don't have the funds to buy a replacement ABS module or a new scan tool so effectively the car is now off the road. So to make use of the car I have decided to remove the engine as I haven't removed a MINI one before. I'm doing it just to learn and to help others if they need to remove their engine. Better than the MINI just sitting in the barn.
@@CoatsandGaiters £25 worth of ABS module turned up via hermes this am. If you use a small ratchet spanner and a t20, you can remove the ABS part/board and not break into the hydraulic circuit . Car now fixed, and ill drop a note on the mini forum as it took inside an hour and no bleeding. Many poor souls will have been ripped off when its only the electronic that fails. I knew it had to be, as the light came on the dash after POS (power on self test)
Thanks for your interst and good to have confirmed you can replace the board as i followed your articles/film which were so helpful- thanks Mark.
@@patrickjmorgan That's great news Patrick. Well done. So did you just buy a new board off ebay? was it a matching model number etc? as I read some need to be recoded if they are slightly different in programming. I expect the MINI can be quite hard on them with vibration as the suspension is pretty stiff on a MINI for hadling.
@@CoatsandGaiters No, it wasnt thr same number . My old one was a 6757062 and what i bought was a 6760265- so, not a million miles away and someone on the coast near here (Herne Bay- a Dealer) was selling a '265' stating it was compatable- so i opted for the cheapest one i could find, given that I could bet mine rebuilt by the specialists for 150. The car now does what its supposed to do- lights on the dash all on at ignition 2 and go off when started. handbrake light come on when called for. I cut the cover off to see if there was any obvious blown chips , but there isnt. The sensor might be duff- but as you know, its on the other side of the board and i didnt try to force my board out.