Awesome video, I am in Northern Finland (a little way north of Rovaniemi) so very interesting to see a video of some old Puukos. I did a video about Marttiini in Rovaniemi a whike back. Never managed to get my hands on an old vintage one though. Thank you very much for showing us these wonderful old knives.
Very jealous of you, that's exactly where I would like to move to! If you know anyone north of Rovaniemi that wants to hire a random guy from the Finnish diaspora that doesn't speak Finnish, let me know. :p On a more serious note, these vintage ones are great. I've also got an Iisakki Järvenpää that is amazing. Would love to find a few more of them! Plus there's two things that I am dying to get, a Roselli UHC hunter knife, and at least one Billnäs axe head (12:2 ideally).
@@practicalknifereviews1600 have a look on Huuto. net, the Finnish version of Ebay. Lots of Billnäs and Kellokoski as well as many old knives. Where I work they would probably hire you but not pay you. We take on volunteers from all over the world. I came here to volunteer for 6 weeks and got offered a job. That was 11 years ago now.
I also have a mineral oil beeswax blend, and in addition to all the things you mentioned, I also rub it onto my carbon steel blades and it keeps them from rusting. It's good stuff and food safe so no worries about using it on blades you use for food prep.
You can take something like a thin flat screwdriver and slide it between those two rivets on the back of the ripped off belt loop, and open that up just enough to slide a thin leather strap in there and twist the two ends in separate directions, then cut a slit in one, slide the other side through and tie it off like a traditional Saami twisted belt loop. Otherwise you can take a split ring and work it in that space between the rivets, then sew a belt loop onto the ring,wgich looks better. These are tge easiest and fastest ways to repair the belt loop, without totally replacing the rivets and riveting on a new belt loop. I’ve done a few repairs of these puukko knives. The Marttiini tend to have softer blades that bend occasionally, so usually that requires me to take tge knife apart, but it’s actually pretty easy. The Jarvenpaa are harder and they hold a nice edge.
Just an idea, have you seen the Hultafors OK4? It has an elastic and webbing thing so you can attach the plastic sheath to your belt. Maybe you could improvise one for the sheaths with the broken loops? It could be at least partially leather and avoid damaging the vintage sheaths. Worth a look!
Nice looking blades especially for their age. Usually those knives are convexed because its really hard to sharpen that wide bevel if the stone is not even. Circular motion rocks the blade ever so slightly. Doesn't really hurt the cutting abilities tho. Usually they would be set back to "skandi" on the side of water grinding wheel. There is a guy called Anssi Ruusuvuori who wrote the "puukko bible". He examined hundreds of knives from museum and private collections and took measurements of each knife. He set out to define how puukko should be defined. The most interesting difference between Scandinavian knives and Finnish puukkos is the edge angle. On average puukkos have about 20 degrees. Swedish knives are around 25 and Norwegian knives are on average about 30 degrees. So the further west you go the higher the edge angle gets for some reason. This correlation could be found from the knives from western Finnish swedish speaking archipelago which tended to have more obtuse edge angles.
It looks very different from the modern one. Can you share the numbers? Blade thickness and the bevel angle. If you can’t measure the angle the height of the bevel will be suitable to calculate the angle. Thanks
They do still have the carbon steel (at least some do), but I agree entirely that the ferrule could/should be larger and the grind higher on the modern carbon steel ones!
@@practicalknifereviews1600the carbon steel used to be of a much higher quality. I like the old ones much more. Btw, I have the twin of your Ilves with the least amount of curly birch in the handle.
Those scandi grinds on those Marttiinis, are designed for general use and better slicing, they don't perform as good for feathersticks, as a lower edge bevel would. Scandi grinds are the worse slicers because of the nature of their geometry, having the same blade thickness, all the way until the edge. That's why many of them ,come with those high scandi grinds, to make the knife slice better. For the so called bushcraft tasks, (that UA-cam and it's marketing, made people thing are the most important use for a knife,) you need a low edge bevel and slightly convexed, scandi geometry. Rob Evans, is one of those makers, who really know about these kind of knives and has perfected the scandi edge geometry. on his Mors Kochanski Tribute knife that he makes. That's also one of the reasons, that Morakniv has so much success on selling "Bushcraft" knives. Their geometries, aren't designed for better slicing, but for decent edge stability that scandis also lack. Another important factor ,is the blade thickness, where Scandi grinds, work way better, until 3mm blade thickness. More than that, no matter how much you raise the edge bevel and what angle you put on the edge of the blade, the knife won't perform those "Bushcraft" tasks, as good and as easy, as the designs on Mora knives, or on Rob's knife do.
Scandi grinds work way better with Carbon steels. and such occasions, are the only ones one should look for the type of steel. I mean, all this Super steel madness, after all that UA-cam marketing, that has brainwashed everybody, has turned people to believe ,that steel is the most important factor on a knife, when in reality, it's one of the last factors, you should care about. It's how the knife was made (blade, bevels, edge geometries, heat treatment, handle design and ergos, sheath) all these, are far more important, on a knife that is going to be a user knife and not a safe queen, sitting on a drawer eating dust. In those occasions, the only thing that really matters, is the looks of the knife and the buyers personal taste. Marttiinis are great knives, and as with all tools, the older, the better!!!
Awesome video, I am in Northern Finland (a little way north of Rovaniemi) so very interesting to see a video of some old Puukos. I did a video about Marttiini in Rovaniemi a whike back. Never managed to get my hands on an old vintage one though.
Thank you very much for showing us these wonderful old knives.
Very jealous of you, that's exactly where I would like to move to! If you know anyone north of Rovaniemi that wants to hire a random guy from the Finnish diaspora that doesn't speak Finnish, let me know. :p
On a more serious note, these vintage ones are great. I've also got an Iisakki Järvenpää that is amazing. Would love to find a few more of them! Plus there's two things that I am dying to get, a Roselli UHC hunter knife, and at least one Billnäs axe head (12:2 ideally).
@@practicalknifereviews1600 have a look on Huuto. net, the Finnish version of Ebay. Lots of Billnäs and Kellokoski as well as many old knives. Where I work they would probably hire you but not pay you. We take on volunteers from all over the world. I came here to volunteer for 6 weeks and got offered a job. That was 11 years ago now.
@@KuukkeliBushcraft Haha that sounds great! Unfortunately I'm flat broke, so I can't really "volunteer" at the moment. :P
I also have a mineral oil beeswax blend, and in addition to all the things you mentioned, I also rub it onto my carbon steel blades and it keeps them from rusting. It's good stuff and food safe so no worries about using it on blades you use for food prep.
Agree entirely! That was what I had on the blade of the modern Ilves!
Those are some great looking vintage Martiinis!! Thanks for sharing!!
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed them, and thank you so much for tuning in!
Great knives! I love Marttiini. :) 🌲🌲🌲
Same here! I think that's the brand that makes the majority of my fixed blades, if I count them up!
Greta review !!
You can take something like a thin flat screwdriver and slide it between those two rivets on the back of the ripped off belt loop, and open that up just enough to slide a thin leather strap in there and twist the two ends in separate directions, then cut a slit in one, slide the other side through and tie it off like a traditional Saami twisted belt loop. Otherwise you can take a split ring and work it in that space between the rivets, then sew a belt loop onto the ring,wgich looks better. These are tge easiest and fastest ways to repair the belt loop, without totally replacing the rivets and riveting on a new belt loop. I’ve done a few repairs of these puukko knives. The Marttiini tend to have softer blades that bend occasionally, so usually that requires me to take tge knife apart, but it’s actually pretty easy. The Jarvenpaa are harder and they hold a nice edge.
Just an idea, have you seen the Hultafors OK4? It has an elastic and webbing thing so you can attach the plastic sheath to your belt. Maybe you could improvise one for the sheaths with the broken loops? It could be at least partially leather and avoid damaging the vintage sheaths. Worth a look!
I will certainly look into it, thanks for the suggestion!
Nice looking blades especially for their age. Usually those knives are convexed because its really hard to sharpen that wide bevel if the stone is not even. Circular motion rocks the blade ever so slightly. Doesn't really hurt the cutting abilities tho. Usually they would be set back to "skandi" on the side of water grinding wheel.
There is a guy called Anssi Ruusuvuori who wrote the "puukko bible". He examined hundreds of knives from museum and private collections and took measurements of each knife. He set out to define how puukko should be defined. The most interesting difference between Scandinavian knives and Finnish puukkos is the edge angle. On average puukkos have about 20 degrees. Swedish knives are around 25 and Norwegian knives are on average about 30 degrees. So the further west you go the higher the edge angle gets for some reason. This correlation could be found from the knives from western Finnish swedish speaking archipelago which tended to have more obtuse edge angles.
It looks very different from the modern one. Can you share the numbers? Blade thickness and the bevel angle. If you can’t measure the angle the height of the bevel will be suitable to calculate the angle. Thanks
They should make them like they use to. High grind, carbon steel, large ferrule. Id pay extra
They do still have the carbon steel (at least some do), but I agree entirely that the ferrule could/should be larger and the grind higher on the modern carbon steel ones!
@@practicalknifereviews1600the carbon steel used to be of a much higher quality.
I like the old ones much more.
Btw, I have the twin of your Ilves with the least amount of curly birch in the handle.
Those scandi grinds on those Marttiinis, are designed for general use and better slicing, they don't perform as good for feathersticks, as a lower edge bevel would. Scandi grinds are the worse slicers because of the nature of their geometry, having the same blade thickness, all the way until the edge. That's why many of them ,come with those high scandi grinds, to make the knife slice better. For the so called bushcraft tasks, (that UA-cam and it's marketing, made people thing are the most important use for a knife,) you need a low edge bevel and slightly convexed, scandi geometry. Rob Evans, is one of those makers, who really know about these kind of knives and has perfected the scandi edge geometry. on his Mors Kochanski Tribute knife that he makes. That's also one of the reasons, that Morakniv has so much success on selling "Bushcraft" knives. Their geometries, aren't designed for better slicing, but for decent edge stability that scandis also lack. Another important factor ,is the blade thickness, where Scandi grinds, work way better, until 3mm blade thickness. More than that, no matter how much you raise the edge bevel and what angle you put on the edge of the blade, the knife won't perform those "Bushcraft" tasks, as good and as easy, as the designs on Mora knives, or on Rob's knife do.
Окей.
Scandi grinds work way better with Carbon steels. and such occasions, are the only ones one should look for the type of steel. I mean, all this Super steel madness, after all that UA-cam marketing, that has brainwashed everybody, has turned people to believe ,that steel is the most important factor on a knife, when in reality, it's one of the last factors, you should care about. It's how the knife was made (blade, bevels, edge geometries, heat treatment, handle design and ergos, sheath) all these, are far more important, on a knife that is going to be a user knife and not a safe queen, sitting on a drawer eating dust. In those occasions, the only thing that really matters, is the looks of the knife and the buyers personal taste.
Marttiinis are great knives, and as with all tools, the older, the better!!!