I haven't read through the comments but I have a suggestion or two... flip the jaws around and you can hold closer to the end. That will reduce the jerky cuts you get because you're holding on to such a long piece. Shorter is better. Hold on to ONLY what you need. Also, start further away so you don't accidentally cut into the ferrule like you did on the first cut.
You just made me realize that I could flip the jaws around. I've always hated how much they stick out on this chuck. I'm an amateur machinist as you probably noticed. 😆 Thanks for the advice 🙏
I don't have the exact physical specs of G10 at hand, but, considering the length he used (pretty close to the diameter of the ferrule), I doubt it will perceptively flex during a 30 MPH impact with a relatively light round object (cue ball) that will easily displace on a very slick surface
@@arsbilliards When I saw the cap I knew what it was immediately lol. Just so you know. about 1/2 as much as you used would get the job done. A little goes quite a long way with their conditioner. I have even reused the same amount that has soaked into the rag on another shaft. That said, those were G core shafts and and it may require more for carbon.
Obviously that's a nice job. But the question is still : why on earth would you replace the original ferrule by an heavier one 😲? If you want to add deflection to your cue, just buy a first price maple shaft 😅
Changing the ferrule to a harder material isn't going to make it hit like a maple cue 😆 it's still a carbon shaft . It will hit more like a Revo now. They use phenolic for there ferrules.
@@arsbilliards I kinda disagree. The Revo is furrelless in designed using their description. They needed to patent the Vault plate for the money. It's a sneaky new wording for "ferrule". I'm not sure what it's made of cause there's no description other then it "The tip insert can be machine from a single piece of material comprising glass fiber-reinforced epoxy laminate sheets". That's from the Patent description. Really that just states it's function and what it 'can' be made of. So just looking at it I would think it's made of carbon fiber. That way the carbon fiber doesn't destroy anything softer than carbon fiber. I could me wrong but I can't find any videos cutting into one. Carbon fiber doesn't machine easily so you could tell right away if it's carbon fiber. I do know in the past their ferrules were really soft. They would melt if machined to hard. It was a hard lesson I learned starting out. It was my cue so I will never do that again.
@@MrADVANCEDTEK I faced one to install a new "tip silencer" it cuts like phenolic. Im sure I'll replace a ferrule (Vault plate) on one eventually. We work on alot of cues.
Interesting. I do have a question though. If I want to further reduce mass at the tip end, can I simply achieve that by shortening the original ferrule?
Hi, Im wondering about the Cynergy's ferrule ? is it kinda "hollow" ? Could it resist hard massés ? Im asking because Im looking for a range of carbon low deflection shaft that would allow me to play both pool and balkine. Problem is : low deflection cues often have ferrules that should not be used to do hardcore massés like those we do in carom/balkline billiards. Revo could be the solution but the smallest cue they have are 11.8mm, it's quite big for carom.
All carbon fiber cues are thin and hollow, that's what it is a carbon fiber tube but filled with a foam that hardens of various density depending on the cue maker.
I would assume it gives the cue a harder hit feel. I personally don't think it affects the hit much. Mostly cosmetic and G10 is much more durable than the PVC it comes with.
@@arsbilliards thx for the quick response! I know the second and thought that it is it. Yes, the first would important for me and I'm curious about. Thx again!
Nice job there man. Hey i bought a chinese lathe and looking for the way to put the second chuck on the back if you can help would appreciate it thanks
Why did you sand the tip? The whole point of the Kamui Clear series is to NOT sand it first. You're introducing pockets for air to get trapped in, which is what causes tips to come off in the first place. You obviously know what you're doing, so I can't understand why you'd do that to a $30 tip
You shoulda always sand the tip and Ferrell for a better connection I’ve never had a tip replaced an they didn’t sand them an I’ve never had one fall off
Nice job im a machinist and getting the scrap off while the turret is turning is very dangerous will wrap around ur finger before u know and u will have 1 less finger
Derilin is so soft it just breaks, and it's not sharp. I remove it while the lathe is running. But I totally agree with you on with metal. Loose a finger, hand, arm. From a hobby gunsmith pov.
I have seen a guy completely loose a finger nail when emory cloth sand paper wrapped around itself and slapped the back of his finger. Material doesn't have to be what we perceive to be hard to do damage. Stay safe.
This will hit harder now with a better feedback 4 sure.. People think it is just a piece of plastic and they are lost searching lower deflection properties, while a hard & sharper hit IMO is much more important for serious players. Great job.
@@arsbilliards I was impressed by you near zero runout with the four jaw chuck. I assume you dialed it in with independent jaws, correct? if so, what brand chuck is it and did you have any trouble adapting it to your metal mini-lathe? Also, where did you get the orange G10 rod??!! I can't find one anywhere. Thank you in advance for your reply
@@poolsicario5882 I'm sure the small weight change won't effect it much. But I see what your saying. I'll probably drill out the center of the tenon next time to reduce the weight. Predator revos and many other carbon shafts use heavy, hard ferrules. Some players prefer that hit.
So i have 2 questions. 1 where are you located? 2. I bought the cynergy 10.5 mm tip (plays like snooker tip) but the ferrule it comes with mushrooms a lot. Is there any way you can change the ferrule of it to a stronger one? Is this the whole point for the video?
But i don't get why still they don't use better tech to replace stupid ferule. You paying 500-600 usd for shaft and it's easy to ruin shaft if you do mistake while replacement. If ferule goes that long into shaft they could've made like a screw ferule.
@@arsbilliards doesn't matter still not original. You left at least a little bit part of previous ferrule. Point is why still they don't use screw style ferrule for high end shafts.
@@vio3667 You can't cut a thread in carbon fiber, even if the wall was much thicker that the average 1mm thickness used for cue shafts. Carbon fiber does not machine well at all; even cutting a straight and flush edge is not very precise. The fibers tend to come apart when you use a parting tool on a lathe, etc etc. One interesting question is, why not build the shaft with a carbon fiber plug already in place from birth, so all you would have to do is stick a G10 plate to absorb the impact and stick your leather tip on top of the plate. Then you would have a near zero mass at the tip end and it would be easy to change the plate if it ever cracked, right? The answer is.................I don't know, but if I had the ability to roll carbon fiber tubes with precision I sure as hell would try it. Don't be surprised if one day the Predators or Cutecs of the world come up with something like that and take credit for the idea.
I haven't read through the comments but I have a suggestion or two... flip the jaws around and you can hold closer to the end. That will reduce the jerky cuts you get because you're holding on to such a long piece. Shorter is better. Hold on to ONLY what you need. Also, start further away so you don't accidentally cut into the ferrule like you did on the first cut.
You just made me realize that I could flip the jaws around. I've always hated how much they stick out on this chuck. I'm an amateur machinist as you probably noticed. 😆 Thanks for the advice 🙏
You're welcome. Been machining for over half a century. It's the little things that make life easy. @@arsbilliards
How much do you charge for this work?
What liquid did you put on shaft after cleaning with alcohol from bottle with green top?
Wondering the same thin here
Jesus, I can see the shaft flexing off-axis! Way too much stick out!
I don't have the exact physical specs of G10 at hand, but, considering the length he used (pretty close to the diameter of the ferrule), I doubt it will perceptively flex during a 30 MPH impact with a relatively light round object (cue ball) that will easily displace on a very slick surface
Which kind of blade holder u use to round the tip? I have a lathe machine but i cannot find that blade holder
What’s that little bottle with the green top do for the shaft ?
It’s called cue silk. I sell it on my store if you’d want to get some. 👍🏼
You used alcohol to clean the shaft what was in the small green bottle
It's a secret 🤫
Joking, it's McDermott ultra glide shaft conditioner
@@arsbilliards When I saw the cap I knew what it was immediately lol. Just so you know. about 1/2 as much as you used would get the job done. A little goes quite a long way with their conditioner. I have even reused the same amount that has soaked into the rag on another shaft. That said, those were G core shafts and and it may require more for carbon.
How can i do that without that equipment?
You don't
Tips can be changed by hand but ferrules are a whole nother thing
Depends how many weeks do you have to spend on it?
Good afternoon. What is the price of that job?
Deping on the type of tip $100-120
Obviously that's a nice job. But the question is still : why on earth would you replace the original ferrule by an heavier one 😲?
If you want to add deflection to your cue, just buy a first price maple shaft 😅
Changing the ferrule to a harder material isn't going to make it hit like a maple cue 😆 it's still a carbon shaft . It will hit more like a Revo now. They use phenolic for there ferrules.
@@arsbilliards I kinda disagree. The Revo is furrelless in designed using their description. They needed to patent the Vault plate for the money. It's a sneaky new wording for "ferrule". I'm not sure what it's made of cause there's no description other then it "The tip insert can be machine from a single piece of material comprising glass fiber-reinforced epoxy laminate sheets". That's from the Patent description. Really that just states it's function and what it 'can' be made of. So just looking at it I would think it's made of carbon fiber. That way the carbon fiber doesn't destroy anything softer than carbon fiber. I could me wrong but I can't find any videos cutting into one. Carbon fiber doesn't machine easily so you could tell right away if it's carbon fiber. I do know in the past their ferrules were really soft. They would melt if machined to hard. It was a hard lesson I learned starting out. It was my cue so I will never do that again.
@@MrADVANCEDTEK I faced one to install a new "tip silencer" it cuts like phenolic. Im sure I'll replace a ferrule (Vault plate) on one eventually. We work on alot of cues.
@@arsbilliards video'd it?
@@MrADVANCEDTEK yeah, I just have it on my PC. Haven't gotten around to editing it. I'll upload it here soon.
Interesting. I do have a question though. If I want to further reduce mass at the tip end, can I simply achieve that by shortening the original ferrule?
sure, I don't see why not
Brilliant! It was so satisfying to watch the art!
Thanks
Is the carbon shaft transparent? I feel i can see the inner color of the inlet shining thrue? or is it a light reflection only
id be so afarid to mess up that carbon shaft and have to pay fo it
yo, have you got the space to spin butts on that?
Hi, Im wondering about the Cynergy's ferrule ? is it kinda "hollow" ? Could it resist hard massés ?
Im asking because Im looking for a range of carbon low deflection shaft that would allow me to play both pool and balkine.
Problem is : low deflection cues often have ferrules that should not be used to do hardcore massés like those we do in carom/balkline billiards. Revo could be the solution but the smallest cue they have are 11.8mm, it's quite big for carom.
All carbon fiber cues are thin and hollow, that's what it is a carbon fiber tube but filled with a foam that hardens of various density depending on the cue maker.
Does anyone have an second hand cue lathe selling?
What king of lathe do used
Ngọn cơ này tên là gì vậy anh
Wow!! I want that!! 😊
sooooo how does it play? G10 is super hard... and the old ferrule is a lot softer i think....
I would assume it gives the cue a harder hit feel. I personally don't think it affects the hit much. Mostly cosmetic and G10 is much more durable than the PVC it comes with.
Can you show how you did your dust collection on this Lathe ?
Maybe, I'll do a shop tour later on
Is the G10 the same ferrule that Tiger uses on their Fortis CF shaft?
no that's a different material, same color though. Tiger uses a very hard material like G10 on the Fortis shafts.
This shit just keeps getting more and more fire like DAM
😂
これこそが選手と共に戦ってくれる職人だ
Please, which lathe you are using at first and after? thx a lot...
The first one is a china metal lathe. I don't know the name 😆
The second one is a deluxe cue smith.
@@arsbilliards thx for the quick response! I know the second and thought that it is it. Yes, the first would important for me and I'm curious about. Thx again!
Where can I get that orange rod?
We sale it for $20 a foot
It is custom G10
no actual threading?
Nope, that's how carbon shafts are done
Nice job there man. Hey i bought a chinese lathe and looking for the way to put the second chuck on the back if you can help would appreciate it thanks
The Chinese lathe that I found had the lathe on the back
Ok thanks
hello mate, i also want to try this idea, have you try it man? so I can set my heart to do it if you succeed to do that 😅
Why did you sand the tip? The whole point of the Kamui Clear series is to NOT sand it first. You're introducing pockets for air to get trapped in, which is what causes tips to come off in the first place. You obviously know what you're doing, so I can't understand why you'd do that to a $30 tip
That's the way I do it. I haven't had a Kamui pop off in years
I also sand every time clear (800) , never fall off and never got cracking sounds. Feel free to do it. I changed at least 25-30 kamui clear tips.
You shoulda always sand the tip and Ferrell for a better connection I’ve never had a tip replaced an they didn’t sand them an I’ve never had one fall off
That would be if you sand it with 80 grit sandpaper. Or, if you did not burnish it at the end. He didn't do any of that.
Where did you get that orange g10 for ferrule i want it on mine
I can sell you some, it's custom
@@arsbilliards give me your email
Nice job im a machinist and getting the scrap off while the turret is turning is very dangerous will wrap around ur finger before u know and u will have 1 less finger
Derilin is so soft it just breaks, and it's not sharp. I remove it while the lathe is running. But I totally agree with you on with metal. Loose a finger, hand, arm. From a hobby gunsmith pov.
I have seen a guy completely loose a finger nail when emory cloth sand paper wrapped around itself and slapped the back of his finger. Material doesn't have to be what we perceive to be hard to do damage. Stay safe.
I'll be more mindful of that, thanks 😁
Masterpiece ❤
Appreciate the kind words
Beautiful work !!
Thanks 😁
Where did you get the g10 from?
This will hit harder now with a better feedback 4 sure..
People think it is just a piece of plastic and they are lost searching lower deflection properties, while a hard & sharper hit IMO is much more important for serious players.
Great job.
Thank you
Appreciate your input 😁
Harder hit is only necessary for a break cue
What did you use to glue the ferrule into the shaft?
It's a flex epoxy from total boat
location?
Were in Riverside California
Tape the cue then the glue wont get on the shaft
Nice job. Do u support the end of the shaft? Or does it fly without support?
Could u send me a link of this lathe?
This Lathe has a rear chuck. Its well supported
@@arsbilliards ok and where i can find this lathe?
@@tkreiner1902 The simple metal lathe I got from Alibaba and the cue lathe is from Cue Smith
@@arsbilliards I was impressed by you near zero runout with the four jaw chuck. I assume you dialed it in with independent jaws, correct? if so, what brand chuck is it and did you have any trouble adapting it to your metal mini-lathe? Also, where did you get the orange G10 rod??!! I can't find one anywhere. Thank you in advance for your reply
Its a generic 4 jaw independent chuck that I got from the same supplier that made the mini metal lathe. The orange G10 was custom made.
How the deflection on that one?
The CueTec Cynergy is a very low deflection shaft. The G-10 I installed is much harder than the original PVC that comes with it.
Yes but I think the g10 is a heavy ferrule
@ARS Billiards the deflection question was not answered.. 😁
@@poolsicario5882 I'm sure the small weight change won't effect it much. But I see what your saying. I'll probably drill out the center of the tenon next time to reduce the weight. Predator revos and many other carbon shafts use heavy, hard ferrules. Some players prefer that hit.
@@arsbilliards i see
Yes hard ferrules are better
So i have 2 questions. 1 where are you located? 2. I bought the cynergy 10.5 mm tip (plays like snooker tip) but the ferrule it comes with mushrooms a lot. Is there any way you can change the ferrule of it to a stronger one? Is this the whole point for the video?
Our store is in Riverside California. yes I can change the ferrule to a harder material. That's why this customer had me install G10
@ARS Billiards does this affect spin on the ball? Since it's a harder ferrule?
But i don't get why still they don't use better tech to replace stupid ferule. You paying 500-600 usd for shaft and it's easy to ruin shaft if you do mistake while replacement. If ferule goes that long into shaft they could've made like a screw ferule.
The Cynergy shaft is $399. I have done many Ferrule replacements on carbon / Fiberglass shafts with great results. 😁
@@arsbilliards doesn't matter still not original. You left at least a little bit part of previous ferrule. Point is why still they don't use screw style ferrule for high end shafts.
No one uses a screw type ferrule for carbon shafts. There all just plugs, epoxied in.
@@arsbilliards once you do that no more warranty either
@@vio3667 You can't cut a thread in carbon fiber, even if the wall was much thicker that the average 1mm thickness used for cue shafts. Carbon fiber does not machine well at all; even cutting a straight and flush edge is not very precise. The fibers tend to come apart when you use a parting tool on a lathe, etc etc. One interesting question is, why not build the shaft with a carbon fiber plug already in place from birth, so all you would have to do is stick a G10 plate to absorb the impact and stick your leather tip on top of the plate. Then you would have a near zero mass at the tip end and it would be easy to change the plate if it ever cracked, right? The answer is.................I don't know, but if I had the ability to roll carbon fiber tubes with precision I sure as hell would try it. Don't be surprised if one day the Predators or Cutecs of the world come up with something like that and take credit for the idea.
What did were the last two liquids that you put in on the carbon fiber?
First I cleaned it with alcohol. Then I used McDermott's ultra glide shaft conditioner
@@arsbilliards thank you
@@fahdfahkri9251 no problem, thanks for watching 😁