Yes, you are right. Had that argument with my wife years ago, and she was right. However, I use discretion. If I think it needs a different psi I go with my gut. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated.
I’ve been searching the web for info about the inner wheels and you mentioned the name, “dowel pin” .? So im finally getting closer... i need to know if i should have two spare wheels/tires 1 with the dowel pin. Any ideas?
@@roadsideguy5902 ok or I can dig a hole to put bottle back in to get it low enough lol Hope I never have to do this. Bringing a big heavy floor jack nust seemed to be a pain although a flat tire is more of a pain but I’ll leave floor jack at home
Oct. 25, 2020----Thanks for the video as I didn't know a spare would be carried under the frame. Is this common on class C's? From what I've seen on class A's, their either in storage bin or on the back part of it. Comments welcomed about this as I'm looking at buy a USED class A. No plans of rv'ing full time, mainly for staying with family north of Tampa, Florida up to 4 weeks at a time and several times a year. Or going fishing to Marysville/Yuba City or east of Reno where I live Drove truck for 15 years (now retired), but before that, worked as yard dog for a produce company cleaning out trailers, refueling the reefers, etc. This also included changing tires on the trucks & trailers. You don't need to use a hydraulic jack to lift an axle when the outside tire is the one needing changing. That's if you have 4 tires on the back end like yours. Get a 6x6 or a 12x12 inch board 3 long, then if you want, make an angled cut on one end. Put it in front of the inside front tire and slowly pull forward, then stop. This way you'll have a few inches of ground clearance for the outside tire to be removed/replaced. Yeah, brute strength will raise your tire to install it, but I used 2, four foot long pry bars which made life a lot easier. Especially when I'd have to do up to 4 tires on a trailer. Imagine having to screw with a jack when you're in snow for example. Also, anyone out there ever have to chain up because you had no choice? What voltage is your impact drill? This is something I NEVER thought would be useful because it was battery operated. I'd been using air driven ones during my time. Checked Harbor Freight and their off brand ones are going for $300, including tax. But Evilbay has the 18 volt Milwaukee ones going for $170 w/free shipping. I can already see this is a hell of a lot better than using a lug nut wrench on my personal vehicles.
Yes a lot of class C motor homes have it bolted underneath with a chain or a cage. Class A motor homes usually don't carry a spare. Those are the tour bus type motor homes. If I owned an RV I would mount the spare on the back. I would also mount two spares. You sometimes need two spares. I would rather carry two and need one than carry one and need two. Also the ramp idea to lift the outside tire. Yes, that is a great one. I usually have a Trailer Aid Ramp with me. That's the little yellow ramps on Amazon. They work great. As you mentioned you can make them also out of wood. The problem for me is I only have so much room in my work car that I often don't carry the ramp. That impact is a Milwaukee 18 volt. You can buy that from Home Depot online for $250. It is the best impact on the market. I had a Snap On before this and the Milwaukee out performs that Snap On by a huge margin. It has 1400 pounds of torque. You can change a semi wheel with this impact. Harbor Frieght is great for tools. All except electronics. Never buy a drill from them. That's wasting money and causing aggravation. Anyhow, hope you get an RV and come down. I live near Tampa so we can be neighbors. Thanks for watching. Take care friend.
Wish I had watched this before ordering a rear spare mount. Didn't realize I should have been looking underneath for a spot to put the extra that was just rolling around in the rig I got.
I upgraded to the Milwaukee inflator. Sold at Home Depot also. The Ryobi kept breaking. I kept returning them under warranty until they stopped making them. The Milwaukee is way better. Thanks for watching.
Remove the outer wheel and then the inner wheel will come off. Sometimes they have dowel pens with a certain whole next to the lugnat hole on the rim. Make sure to align this dowel hole with the double pin.
It would be impossible for anything to happen so yeah with two wheels bolted on why wouldn't I? What's so funny? How else you gunna let the jack down? You got Go Go Gadget arms?
Absolutely Mr. Butler however the correct torque specs on an RV are nowhere near 450. You are thinking of a semi truck. An RV usually requires somewhere around 75 - 150 lbs depending on what class. A person could actually change most c class motor home wheels by hand. Nothing to it. That Milwaukee 1/2 Is capable of 1400 pounds of torque. It's the strongest impact on the market. The only cordless impact that I know of capable of changing a semi wheel. It comes with 4 settings. When I am installing a wheel I use setting number 2 which gives it enough torque without over torquing it. If I use setting number 3 I would over torque the lug nuts. But let's say you have a log not that will not come off setting number 3 is sure to get it off. I've never had a log not not come off. This impact is twice as strong as my last snap on half inch impact.
@@roadsideguy5902 The difference is between 19.5" wheels and 22'5" wheels. The torque is 150 for the 19s, but it jumps to 450 for the 22s. My point was, that you didn't mention torque and did show using a torque wrench. Unfortunately, my RV has the larger wheels and requires the higher torque.
My E450 requires 140 foot pounds, for lug nuts with washers, and I always torque properly. I'm always surprised by people, even in the repair business, that don't know how to use a torque wrench.
Worst spare tire storage method I've ever seen. I guess that's why you didn't show putting the tire back in there. The spare was also upside down so it couldn't have the pressure checked. You didn't align the tire valve stems at 180 degrees.
Thanks Bro I don't know how I'm going to get that spare tire down I don't have the strength to hold it up while I'm doing the bolt stupid design stupid design
You never mentioned safety. No safety glasses. Those cute little latex gloves might keep you from getting dirty, but not from getting injured. I keep 2 reflective high vis vests in every vehicle. You didn't chock the other tires. You put the tire on with your legs under the motor home. If a semi comes by and blows it off the small area on top of that bottle jack, especially with NO chocks and NO safety blocks, you'll be a paraplegic. (Neighbor "Hey RG. Hows it going?" You, " Oh, I can't kick.") You didn't torque the nuts. I don't care what a tool manuf. says.Most people don't know how to use a torque wrench correctly, not even in tire shops. In reality, you have no idea how tight they are. Also, I put anti seize on the hub where the wheels ride and on the mating surfaces between the wheels and on the hub or you may find you can't get the wheels off when they're rusted to the hub and each other. (NEVER lubricate the nuts or studs) Check the torque after driving 50 or 100 miles, especially if you have alloy wheels. You also did this under ideal conditions. It's likely that in real life the motor home will be sitting significant lower to the ground. This may make getting the spare out much more difficult,if not impossible and the jack may not fit under the axle. I think I'll stick with my methods.
@@Eec2023 Ok, genius, when should someone decide to do things safely if not while INSTRUCTING? And where do you think 99.9% of spare tires are installed? Flat and level driveways? This guy has no business teaching how to install a spare tire. Furthermore, OSHA does not regulate private individuals and apparently neither does common sense. Jeez
Thank you for making this video. I just bought a bottle jack and impact driver. I now have the knowledge and confidence to replace my RV tires.
Hell yeah! Great stuff.
Good video. I would recommend getting your tire pressure needed from the door stickers.
Yes, you are right. Had that argument with my wife years ago, and she was right. However, I use discretion. If I think it needs a different psi I go with my gut. Thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated.
That hand held inflator is pretty awesome. On my way to home depot to get one now.
Very helpful. Thanks. American conservative University podcast.
Do you have a video showing a tire replacement for the front on a Class C RV? I mainly want to see where the proper lift point is for the front.
I think I do. But the lower control arms. The a arms. Are good.
Thanks for your video big help for me to make a decision’s.
Can’t thank you enough, Sir❣️
thank you so much! this inspired me to change the rv tire...!! thanks!!
Thanks Dude! We owe you a beer!!
Awesome glad I could help.
I really appreciate you making this video, thank you!
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
what about changing the inner tire (both tires), any special technique or things to line up? Valve extenders? etc.
great video thanks, what kinda bottle jack you recommend?
20 ton
I’ve been searching the web for info about the inner wheels and you mentioned the name, “dowel pin” .? So im finally getting closer... i need to know if i should have two spare wheels/tires 1 with the dowel pin. Any ideas?
Inner wheel and outer wheel (and front wheel) are all the same - inner wheels just turned other side out when mounted.
so what if the tire is blown out and the sidewall is collapsed and now the axle is too low to get the bottle jack under it?
Build a ramp out of wood concrete or a dirt mound and drive up on it. Then jack it up from there.
@@roadsideguy5902 ok or I can dig a hole to put bottle back in to get it low enough lol
Hope I never have to do this.
Bringing a big heavy floor jack nust seemed to be a pain although a flat tire is more of a pain but I’ll leave floor jack at home
Thats why you relocate the spare to the back of the rv. Mines on the back of the platform which is convenient. Just put a tire cover on it😁
Awesome video great 😎 work man
Thank you
Thank u so much
Glad I could help.
Oct. 25, 2020----Thanks for the video as I didn't know a spare would be carried under the frame. Is this common on class C's? From what I've seen on class A's, their either in storage bin or on the back part of it.
Comments welcomed about this as I'm looking at buy a USED class A. No plans of rv'ing full time, mainly for staying with family north of Tampa, Florida up to 4 weeks at a time and several times a year. Or going fishing to Marysville/Yuba City or east of Reno where I live
Drove truck for 15 years (now retired), but before that, worked as yard dog for a produce company cleaning out trailers, refueling the reefers, etc. This also included changing tires on the trucks & trailers. You don't need to use a hydraulic jack to lift an axle when the outside tire is the one needing changing. That's if you have 4 tires on the back end like yours. Get a 6x6 or a 12x12 inch board 3 long, then if you want, make an angled cut on one end. Put it in front of the inside front tire and slowly pull forward, then stop. This way you'll have a few inches of ground clearance for the outside tire to be removed/replaced. Yeah, brute strength will raise your tire to install it, but I used 2, four foot long pry bars which made life a lot easier. Especially when I'd have to do up to 4 tires on a trailer. Imagine having to screw with a jack when you're in snow for example. Also, anyone out there ever have to chain up because you had no choice?
What voltage is your impact drill? This is something I NEVER thought would be useful because it was battery operated. I'd been using air driven ones during my time. Checked Harbor Freight and their off brand ones are going for $300, including tax. But Evilbay has the 18 volt Milwaukee ones going for $170 w/free shipping. I can already see this is a hell of a lot better than using a lug nut wrench on my personal vehicles.
Yes a lot of class C motor homes have it bolted underneath with a chain or a cage. Class A motor homes usually don't carry a spare. Those are the tour bus type motor homes. If I owned an RV I would mount the spare on the back. I would also mount two spares. You sometimes need two spares. I would rather carry two and need one than carry one and need two.
Also the ramp idea to lift the outside tire.
Yes, that is a great one. I usually have a Trailer Aid Ramp with me. That's the little yellow ramps on Amazon. They work great. As you mentioned you can make them also out of wood. The problem for me is I only have so much room in my work car that I often don't carry the ramp.
That impact is a Milwaukee 18 volt. You can buy that from Home Depot online for $250. It is the best impact on the market. I had a Snap On before this and the Milwaukee out performs that Snap On by a huge margin. It has 1400 pounds of torque. You can change a semi wheel with this impact. Harbor Frieght is great for tools. All except electronics. Never buy a drill from them. That's wasting money and causing aggravation.
Anyhow, hope you get an RV and come down. I live near Tampa so we can be neighbors. Thanks for watching. Take care friend.
class a rv, might have a spare. some don't, but find where one can fit. look for a wheel & put a tire on it. just check when you looking at it.
Wish I had watched this before ordering a rear spare mount. Didn't realize I should have been looking underneath for a spot to put the extra that was just rolling around in the rig I got.
What size bottle jack for a 31 foot Minnie Winnie?
Can use 5 ton or bigger. Thanks for watching.
What air compressor tool are you using?
i just carry a 10 gallon air tank. that hand held inflator is cool. might get one
I upgraded to the Milwaukee inflator. Sold at Home Depot also. The Ryobi kept breaking. I kept returning them under warranty until they stopped making them. The Milwaukee is way better. Thanks for watching.
Very informative vid, Roadside Guy, thanks for posting! What model Milwaukee impact is that you're using?
Thanks. Yes that's a Milwaukee from Home Depot. Cheaper online than in store.
Could we see how to on the inside rear is done. Liked you last video. Thanks
Remove the outer wheel and then the inner wheel will come off. Sometimes they have dowel pens with a certain whole next to the lugnat hole on the rim. Make sure to align this dowel hole with the double pin.
How many tons bottle lift do you have
20 ton
Where can we get the hand held air compressor?
Home Depot
Those dualies are just two wheels stacked!
You know he trusts his work when he lets the jack down while under the vehicle 💀🤣
It would be impossible for anything to happen so yeah with two wheels bolted on why wouldn't I? What's so funny? How else you gunna let the jack down? You got Go Go Gadget arms?
What about the torque on those lug nuts? 450 ft lbs?
Absolutely Mr. Butler however the correct torque specs on an RV are nowhere near 450. You are thinking of a semi truck. An RV usually requires somewhere around 75 - 150 lbs depending on what class. A person could actually change most c class motor home wheels by hand. Nothing to it.
That Milwaukee 1/2 Is capable of 1400 pounds of torque. It's the strongest impact on the market. The only cordless impact that I know of capable of changing a semi wheel. It comes with 4 settings. When I am installing a wheel I use setting number 2 which gives it enough torque without over torquing it. If I use setting number 3 I would over torque the lug nuts. But let's say you have a log not that will not come off setting number 3 is sure to get it off. I've never had a log not not come off. This impact is twice as strong as my last snap on half inch impact.
@@roadsideguy5902 The difference is between 19.5" wheels and 22'5" wheels. The torque is 150 for the 19s, but it jumps to 450 for the 22s. My point was, that you didn't mention torque and did show using a torque wrench. Unfortunately, my RV has the larger wheels and requires the higher torque.
@@waynebutler7813 I don't buy that at all.
My E450 requires 140 foot pounds, for lug nuts with washers, and I always torque properly.
I'm always surprised by people, even in the repair business, that don't know how to use a torque wrench.
Watching you remove the spare all I could think of was traffic zooming by on the side of the highway if that's where you had to change it
I have many many times with worse situations than this. Thanks for watching.
the selfie cam messed with my head. evert bolt you turned the wrong way until I noticed the phone number on the back of your shirt.
Hahahah hilarious! Yeah that always gets me too. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, Sounds stupid but, I didn't know my spare would work for the back wheels........
Yuuuup
Thanks for watching
Funny my class c don’t have spare tire holder need ideas 💡.
Bike rack on the back is best.
It's always something!
Worst spare tire storage method I've ever seen. I guess that's why you didn't show putting the tire back in there.
The spare was also upside down so it couldn't have the pressure checked.
You didn't align the tire valve stems at 180 degrees.
Thanks for watching commenting and making me money
Disappointed he didn’t mention the load range of the jack used.
20 ton from Harbor Freight. Pittsburgh brand. Thanks for watching.
Half the video spent getting the spare out Really?
Takes that long and that's knowing how to do it. Imagine not knowing that would take the entire video.
Thanks Bro I don't know how I'm going to get that spare tire down I don't have the strength to hold it up while I'm doing the bolt stupid design stupid design
Stupid ass design!!!!
you could pull up the tire with the chain and the do the nut. Just sayin.
Remove and replace the axle 2004 h,urricane motor homes
Looks like a tough job for a 73 year old.
Not impossible,but probably worth paying someone younger. Thanks for watching.
This was painful to watch 😬
Then watch it twice hahahahahhahahahahha
You never mentioned safety.
No safety glasses.
Those cute little latex gloves might keep you from getting dirty, but not from getting injured.
I keep 2 reflective high vis vests in every vehicle.
You didn't chock the other tires.
You put the tire on with your legs under the motor home. If a semi comes by and blows it off the small area on top of that bottle jack, especially with NO chocks and NO safety blocks, you'll be a paraplegic.
(Neighbor "Hey RG. Hows it going?" You, " Oh, I can't kick.")
You didn't torque the nuts. I don't care what a tool manuf. says.Most people don't know how to use a torque wrench correctly, not even in tire shops. In reality, you have no idea how tight they are.
Also, I put anti seize on the hub where the wheels ride and on the mating surfaces between the wheels and on the hub or you may find you can't get the wheels off when they're rusted to the hub and each other. (NEVER lubricate the nuts or studs)
Check the torque after driving 50 or 100 miles, especially if you have alloy wheels.
You also did this under ideal conditions. It's likely that in real life the motor home will be sitting significant lower to the ground. This may make getting the spare out much more difficult,if not impossible and the jack may not fit under the axle.
I think I'll stick with my methods.
Thanks for watching Daren.
The guys breaking his ass to help someone out. Save the OHSA safety bullshit for another time. He's not out the the fucking highway. Jeez
@@Eec2023 Ok, genius, when should someone decide to do things safely if not while INSTRUCTING?
And where do you think 99.9% of spare tires are installed? Flat and level driveways?
This guy has no business teaching how to install a spare tire.
Furthermore, OSHA does not regulate private individuals and apparently neither does common sense.
Jeez