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Creality Ender 3 V3 SE Ceramic Hot End Install
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- Опубліковано 17 січ 2024
- Even though there is a hold up on the FULL UPGRADE Install on the Ender 3 V3 SE. We have the Full Install Instruction and SIMPLE CR Touch Reposition Instructions
#3dprinting
#creality3d
#ender3v3
#ender3v3se
#ender3v3ke
Parts list with links?
Cheers. I just opened the ke hot end I got in the mail not 30 minutes ago and I’m casually printing a 6mm car touch spacer as I saw you uploaded this. Thank you.
I’m still waiting on 2 remaining additions to come.
Be interesting to see how your linear rail project is doing.
Nightmarish but it is moving along.
I am stuck trying to remove the tension screw. I can see the hole but not a head of a screw. The image of the tension screw on screen was not high enough resolution to me to make out. Is there a video that shows this more clearly?
THANK YOU!
You're welcome!
Whelp. I did something wrong 😂I put the two nuts in and thought the BL-Touch looked a BIT too close... Should have trusted my instinct 😅punched a hole through my build plate.
Didn't follow the directions exactly so I don't blame you lol
Sorry to hear. Hope you got it situated after that happened.
@@3DandTeePrinting I got it sorted! I didn't think about my hardware being slightly less thick. Added a few washers in there and we're good!
Did you see a drastic speed increase while keeping prints clean?
I pushed things to the full 250mm/s on a print with plenty of small details and it still came out REALLY nice!
Also my print bed survived with only a tiny poke haha
awsome upgrade, nice video! but with the ptfe tube we can still only reach like 240-250ºC even puting capricorn instead we could gain just a couple degrees, what u think?
The Cermaic one has a Bi-Metal heatbreak already installed. Which SHOULD allow for 300c temps without issues with that PTFE tube in there. My Upgraded Sprite PRO kit on my Neo also came with a PTFE tube in it and I print 270c ASA/ABS on it with now issues after 2 months. I did ended up changing out the PTFE to a Capricorn on the SE when I had to take it BACK apart to install the linear rail bracket. Just for peace of mind.
The reason you can't do the full 260 . Is because there is a piece of ptfe tubing in the heatbreak. Simply swapping for a all metal heatbreak will solve the issue. The piece of ptfe tubing on the top that goes into the extruder. It never gets hot it's just to help guide the filament.
I came across this video and ordered the parts right away. My old hotend got swallowed up by a big glob of filament. I've since done the upgrade but sometimes get adhesion issues, first layer or a few layers in it will start to either lift a little or leave raised filament which gets caught by the nozzle later on and knocks the print loose. Any ideas? I've used cr touch to level the bed a few times and the issue doesn't happen on every print e.g benchy prints just fine. My next step is going to be a brand new spool of filament just to rule out that being the problem.
Could be a bunch of possible culprits.
1) Z Offset is a little high
2) Flow Rates is to low
3) First Layer Not Thick Enough
4) Unleveled /Warped BED
5) Unclean Build Sheet
6) Filament or Environmental Moisture
There is no one right answer. Try lowing your z offset by .02mm to .04mm Lower. Then if that's not the fix work through the list above.
Sorry I can't give you a definite answer. Each case is different.
Did you buy and plug it without problem or did you soldering it to be longer?
Exact fit. No sodering needed.
Wow really amazing how we can just upgrade it like that. Might look into this vid in the future once I learn more on 3D printing. One question is. How do we now get cooling to the new hotend. Do we need to create and design a new fan shroud and duct?
Currently have the Ender 3 V3 SE too and learning how to print PETG and TPU next. Tuning the profile on Cura slicer
@@aimanramizu6901It's been Great for both TPU and PETG. Hope the the same for you.
I did NOT make a shroud. BUT..... Some else has a design I am working on REMIXING to fit the new distances.
Any luck on a new fan/shroud that works with this?
Do i need to do that to the cr touch or can it go back on the way it was?
@Productreviewing538 You will have to reposition the CR touch or else the Nozzle will be too close to the bed for it to probe and it will dig into the bed and not allow you to be able to level.
@@3DandTeePrinting alright then i will just get the all metal hot end from creality for my printer
1:35 Is it mandatory to apply this and what are the issues with not using it? I am currently preparing to upgrade to the CHC PRO hotend.
It's is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for better heat dispersion but not mandatory. I have ALWAYS used it so I can't tell you what would happen if you don't. If your splurging for the CHC I would get a tube. It last a LONG time. I have had a 5cc tube for past year and half still got half a tube left.
www.amazon.com/dp/B088CHBZQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's the heat transfer goop like you would use on a computer between the CPU and Heatsink. Yes, use it. Not using it will cause irregular temps at the nozzle, thus causing sh!77ty prints.
Hey man i had justvordered fans for a dual fan setbup but seeing as how this lowers the nozzle 5mmish will i have to fond a way to lower the fan ducts or should still cool good with it?
My parts come friday and i want to be ready
You can modify the STL and add holes in the slicer. I physically Added Holes AFTER the fact. Heated up my soldering tip and added new hole just above by the originals (about 3-4mm) and it is now the correct height from the bed and just about the tip of the nozzle.
Thank you very much for the tutorial, I was successful in my hotend swap because of it.
Glad it helped
The 2 screws connecting the heating element and heatsink can it function properly without those?
@punkreeperful No. That holds them together. Kind of important. WOW your right I never put it back in. I may need to add a pop up on the video. Good Catch. Thank you.
I switched out the hotend to a microswiss flowtech shortly after but it was printing fine before I did.
🤷♂️
@@3DandTeePrinting you're welcome. Unfortunately microswiss isnt available in my country, i will just have to settle with the K1 upgrade or maybe if the SE/KE ceramic upgrade has better reviews I will go with that. Fingers crossed with the blob of death 😂☠
Is that hotend come with the BiMetal heatbreak
Bimetal. It's a Chrome-Copper+Titanium setup with a .4mm Brass Nozzle ONLY.
is there a another name for Boron Nitrate I can not find in ion amazon in Canada is it the same a cpu thermal paste I'm buildi9ng a com,puter in a couple weeks?
No do not use Computer Thermal Paste. CPU Paste is not for the extremely high temps on a 3d printer. Boron NITRIDE can work all the way up to 1000c vs CPU Thermal Paste maxing out around 100c.
Here is a link to the one I use.
a.co/d/e6GLBI6
hi are you able to put up the whole 300C heat without modding the os or firmware ?
@geromemercs3207 No you will have to change it in the firmware. I am running Klipper on the SE sonI can just change it in the Printer.cfg file. I did not attempt to change the Marlin Firmware but I am sure someone by now has made an aftermarket Firmware for it if the source code has been released l.
@@3DandTeePrintinghay how did u get klipper to connect do u use a raspberry pi I just ordered a pi zero 2 to set up to connect should be here tomorrow is that pi workable without a camera connected to use for this I just installed the ceramic hotend on my 3 v3 se and need to get the nuts for the prtouch sensor how many mm thick do I need for spacers
@peggyelrod2535 I went the plug and play route with a Sonic Pad. I didn't use a PI. I am sure it's simple setup if you're used to adding a PI. I already had a Sonic Pad running 3 other printers so it was just an easier option for me. There is also the Nebula plug and play option.
I'm having trouble removing the two tiny bolts or scres holder the SE hot end on IK tried like 29 allen keys non e of them seem to fit or work? Does the K1 hot end need those 2 little screw ort bolts OI was thinking about cutting mine off with mydremel?
Yes it does need them. It keeps the throat pressed against the heatbreak. If you cut them off you will still need to remove the remaining cut screws from the thread and put in new ones. If you don't you may end up with the Blob/Glob of DEATH from the filament creeping AROUND the throat and oozing out AROUND the nozzle and heater block. I HIGHLY recommend against leaving them off. I am NOT opposed to dremeling them off you just have to replace them.
It's either a 1 or 1.5 M Allen wrench. I can't remember off hand. They DO cause the Allen wrench or screw head to strip from time to time. I have cut them off with bolt cutters and replaced them before. Just took a pair of plyers and screwed them out that way. After I cut them they was the rest to grab onto so I could remove them then. Another trick is to heat up the hotend. Sometimes the thermal expansion will allow you to Loosen them.
I stripped mine, cut the screws and undone the bolts with needle nosed pliers then replaced with new screws
I did some thinking (and looking) and saw that the hotend design for the SE is nearly identical to the Ender 5 S1 (barring the different shape in the heat sink). By extension, could this mod be possible on the S1?
Yes it fits on the 5 S1 But it's not a simple switch. I have already switched my 5 S1 to the SPIDER 3.0 so No need for the Cermaic Hotend for me but yes it can be fitted but needs some altering of your fan, cr-touch, and a few other things.
I Installed the ceramic hot end, and also installed klipper using the sonic pad. I am unable to increase temps above 260 even after modifying the max temps in the printer.cfg. Any suggestions?
Interesting. I changed mine on both the SONIC Pad under extruder and in Klipper on the Printer.cfg to 305c and it's been getting to 300c with No issues. Not sure why your didn't stick. Let me see if I can find an answer for you.
@@3DandTeePrinting Thanks, much appreciated. Anything over 265c fails with a USB1 Ender-3 V3 SE abnormal heating error. But it will run at 263c all day.
@@RESTIVOX12 Howdy, did you ever figure this issue out?
@fireballsflight Sadly no. I have not messed with it in a while. I am able to print pa6-cf at 263c with no issues, so I don't necessarily need to increase temps at the moment. Although I am still curious about why I can't increase temps.
What kind of Fan Mount are you using for this hotend?
I had to "manually" remix this STL (drilled 3 new hole placements in already printed parts 5mm higher to compensate for new nozzle location). I am sure there are other designs out there that work better with this setup but I didn't go looking to hard after I hard already had my heart set on using the single 5015 blower.
www.printables.com/model/697788-ender-3-v3-se-single-5015-fan
will the printer recognize that the temp can go up to 300 or do you have to modify it?
You can change the max temp in your printer.cfg file. I am running the SE off a Sonic pad so there is an option through that interface to do it right on the screen. If your not running klipper on it you will need to hook it up to a computer to access the internal files.
K thank you
What is klipper
It's a User Interface that allows you to have more control over your printer. Think of your 3d printer as a new kids bike. It comes with training wheels on it so you don't fall over (break the printer). Klipper Takes those training wheels OFF. If your taking off the training wheels you can now get the bike (printer) to do cool tricks and stunts you couldn't do with the training wheels on. BUT you got to know how to ride (use) the bike (printer) first before you do or you could end up injured (breaking your machine).
Is it possible to change the .cfg file myself? And if so, what kind of software do I need to do that?
Do we have to put the thermal paste, I have brand new printer would it be fine with out it
Recommended not required
@@3DandTeePrinting thanks man I needed to know, I ordered some anyways it comes Wednesday, also btw on printables Arthur Grigoryan has a spacer model for the cr touch, also could you explain how to calibrate the pid
@@Marc_Figueroa I found it after the fact. I switched to the Microswiss Flowtech Today and should have a few videos in it upcoming once I tune the flow rates.
@@3DandTeePrinting so turns out there is two k1 cermaic heater blocks, i bought the k1 max ceramic heater, and it works
@Marc_Figueroa K1 max has abrasive resistance nozzle tip. K1 doesn't.
YT apparently deleted my previous (long) post, so trying again. The big 'A' lists a 300 degree hotend/bimetal heatbreak that's rectangular and *appears* to be a direct replacement for the stock 260 hotend. Any thoughts on that version vs the longer ceramic?
Not to familar with the "A" List. The Longer Cermaic version gives you a larger melt zone and quick heating with the longer nozzle.
@@3DandTeePrinting Well, YT has done it again. Is it not possible to insert a link to a commercial vendor like the Big 'A'? If you search that site for "Creality Official Sprite Extruder Upgrade Heater Block Kit High Temperature Pro 300℃ Titanium Heatbreak" the 1st hit should show the one I was talking about, at 26.99, and clicking on it will show 3 other options, as well. If I do the 300 degree hotend change, will I need to move from Marlin to Klipper/etc to use the higher temps (260-300)? Thanks for your time and knowledge!
@rv7builder397 oh you mean the SPRITE CERAMIC. I have a video on that too (see below). The Sprire Cermaic has different Jst connectors than the SE or KE. It is Smaller and you can't change the nozzle out. It's all one part. I have one on my Neo currently. Nice kit but limiting in nozzle size to .4mm. Hopefully they will come out with a .2mm or .6mm version. The K1 hotend upgrade is better in my opinion. BUT to be completely honest. I moved past the K1 nozzle and went with a flowtech. Currently working on a video of its installation an performance. I know it's OVERKILL and expensive but if your modding price shouldn't be the issue. Quality is.
ua-cam.com/video/xqaQsN4CEe8/v-deo.htmlsi=hL6D8IzyZ6DjPVHF
@@3DandTeePrinting That page shows a ceramic, and also a regular looking rectangular that claims to be 300 degree. Having said that, it sounds like the K1 is going to be the ticket. Am I going to need Klipper or something else to use the higher temps?
@rv7builder397 I threw klipper on mine so fast I didn't get a good thorough look at the Marlin firmware. I would highly recommend grabbing a Nebula kit (pad and camera). You can be on Klipper real fast without rewriting your firmware to get to 300c AND you get HD timelapses. I had a Sonic Pad already with one port left out of the 4 and Never looked back. I might need to step back and do some research on the Marlin side of it just for my own knowledge.
How much stronger is petg over pla
There is a lot of confusion on "STRENGTH". Each material has its "pluses and minuses". For.example PLA doesn't hold up well against constant tension on the part but can hold more weigh then PETG or ABS. Think of thick sheet of GLASS. Strong yet if impacted will shatter or crack. Whereas PETG will SLIGHTLY flex to absorb some of that strain. Usually resulting in a bend before failing. PLA doesn't do well will higher ambient temperature and will start to warp and bow. PETG has a higher resistance to heat and is more UV resistant. So it all depends on what your using the part for.
I just swapped to a all metal heatbreak which now allows me to do the full 260c. Did you figure out a way to change the firmware to 300c?
Yes. The heatbreak is great at preventing PTFE deterioration from excess heat BUT.....
1) You have to have a THERMISTOR installed that can reach 300. The Upgraded add on Cermaic Hotends by Creality are rate at 300c But have a litte extra that allows them to go over up to 320c but I highly recommending sticking to 300c max setting.
2) You have to modify your PRINTER.CFG file to 300c under Max Temp. I am using a Sonic Pad with my SE to get Klipper on it so there is options to modify it on the Sonic Pad for you. If you have Klipper but no sonic pad just edit it manually under the CONFIGURATIONS tab of your Fluidd or Mainsail UI. Then select your most recent PRINTER.CFG file. Scroll Down to: "View 'extruder' documentation" under that section there should be "max_temp" and it should be set to either 260 or 265. CHANGE that to 300 or 305. The extra 5 is to prevent the Thermal runaway protection from kicking in if the temps get over 300 when heating up. Then SAVE and RESTART. Go back in and check and make sure the changes saved. Then your good.
*if you don't have Klipper you will have to access your Printer.cfg by hooking your printer to your computer and modifying the Printer.cfg file in WORD or NOTEPAD. Then saving it back onto the printer AFTER you saved the changes to the Printer.cfg. The Printer.cfg is on the MAINBOARD of the printer.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO CHANGE ANYTHING ELSE IN THE PRINTER.CFG file that you don't know what you doing. You can brick your printer.
@@3DandTeePrintingender 3 V3 se runs marlin, there is no printer.cfg for marlin, you would need to recompile marlin, alas creality has not released their marlin source. However there is already an option to get klipper onto an se with a rpi, which is what I have done, works great.
@pellcorp Thanks. Been running Klipper on the SE so long I Forgot it was Marlin based out the box. My bad.
@@3DandTeePrinting yeah I'm familiar with how to change temp in klipper. I have done it on a s1 with a sonic pad. But still running stock Marlin on my SE.
Did you use the Ceramic for K1 ? Why not for KE ? Is the KE fitr better ?
KE already comes with the Cermaic Hotend that is offered on the K1. The SE I just chose the abrasion resistant K1 hotend for better long-term use on the machine.
Would a ke sprite be a drop in for the se @@3DandTeePrinting
@Kami3Kaze The SPRITE is the EXTRUDER System and the Same on both printers. The HOTEND is what is swappable on the SE. Keep in mind there is a different setup for Cr Touch and Linear Rails carriage on the KE that is not on the SE.
I put a Spider speedy hot end on my Ender 3 pro with a CR touch. The spacer idea is great. Mine seems to be right at a 0 nozzle offset but a little play would be nice. Thx for the video.
Hopefully the 3.0 and not the 4.0 Ceramic one. I have BOTH. The 4.0 was so bad creality pulled it from their stores and people are now buying up the left overs through 3rd parties (Amazon, Temu, and Aliexpress). If you have the 4.0 PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE send it back immediately before you have to deal with the nightmare that is the SPEEDY SPIDER. The 3.0 that's an awesome hotend. Currently running that on my Ender 5 S1 and had it on my V2 for a while as well. The 4.0 I didn't return it in time and I have been trying to get it to work on 6 different printers with nothing but heating failures or it shuts off your printer mid print with an error code for irregular heating. This is a known issue with it.
@3DandTeePrinting thanks for the heads up. Nothing specifies which version it is. It seems great so far tho. Is there an easy way to tell which version it is?
The 4.0 is Ceramic and looks like a rectangle that is all Red with a TINY silcone sock over the tip of the nozzle and a V on the face. The 3.0 is NOT ceramic and has a BIG black silicone sock that says "SPIDER" on it.
@3DandTeePrinting Hmmm that's not good. I have the 4.0 then. Might explain why my prints have been stringy and can't get the thing to work properly.
@3DandTeePrinting i haven't had any heating error issues but I don't think it's reading the proper temp either. Maybe the heating error you're having is a firmware issue? I had that issue with one firmware with my old print head. Prints have been super stringy even after I dried the filament good.
Quick question, how’d you get the entire head off of the gantry?
Hard way: Unscrew the POM wheel with the eccentric nut then pry it over the lip of the 20x20 extrusion. LOOSEN and Remove Belt attached to the carriage.
Easy (LONGER/correct) Way: Take off fan shroud, remove extruder motor, Loosen and remove belt from carriage, unscrew POM wheel and screw with the eccentric nut from backplate, once POM and Screw are off the toolhead pulls right up and off.
@@3DandTeePrinting I see. It really doesn’t matter if I have to remove the belt because I’m looking to add a linear rail to the gantry anyways. Did you use a 300mm rail for yours?
@Daizlol 300mn MGN9C for the STL and it fits perfectly. I was worried about the lip on the left side behind the x axis near the gantry but with the brace it lifts it just over it.
@@3DandTeePrintingdo I need to do any estep recalibration when I swap this hotend?
hi, can I get a link to where you got the hotend?
It's just a K1/K1 Max Ceramic Hotend. I recommend the K1 MAX or Hardened Steel tipped version as it is abrasion resistant for CF, glitter, GF, and glow in the dark filaments. You can get them any where. Aliexpress, Amazon, or Creality store. Usually $20-$30.
Would the ender 3 s1 hot end fit the v3 se?
I would ASSUME So but you would have to change the JST connectors to match. They have a similar Heat sink. BUT the K1 hotend is better than the CERAMIC S1 Upgraded hotend. I got them mixed ip originally and order a S1 ceramic hotend and found the JST connectors didn't match. I also had a S1. So I just put it on the S1 instead and then ordered the K1 MAX hotend (abrasion resistant vs. regular K1 hotend) and put it on the SE (shown in the video).
Couldn’t find the tiny screw on the silver cover could you tell me where to look on the printer?
It's called a set SCREW. It should be located directly above the heatbeak (metal tube) in the actual heatsink (silver aluminum part with lines all along it horizontally. NOT THE PART WITH THE NOZZLE ATTACHED TO IT). It's VERY SMALL and USUALLY black but could be silver.
@@3DandTeePrinting Thank you 🙏
Great Video... What is the benefit of going with a Ceramic Hot End? And can you provide the link where you order it from? Thx
The capability of higher printing temperatures. The stock hotend on the SE is only rated at 260C, and the K1 hotend is either 300C or 330C I believe. Though you will have to install new firmware to be able to run this printer up to that temp, you’ll still be able to print more reliably at 260C.
You have quicker heat up and cool down times. More Stable temps. Better PID tune. 300c temp printablity. You have to update the max temp in your printer.cfg from 260c to 300c to reach though temps. But that is a quick change. If you are running a Sonic pad/ BTT Pad you can change it through there as well. Basically the Flagship Nozzle. Also with THIS version (hardened tip) you can also print Carbon Fiber High Temp Material's (in theroy but I plan on testing that).
Did you had to run a pid tune after upgrading the hotend?
Yes. 100% recommended or your temps will fluctuate.
@@3DandTeePrinting I also have an Ender 3 V3 SE and I bought the same hotend, but I can't find the thermal paste that you showed in the video. Would it be a problem to install the hotend without thermal paste? I live in Brazil and I can't find anything of quality in national stores, I also couldn't find it on AliExpress.
@ronaldogomes5335 You CAN but the thermal paste helps with keeping a good thermal connection. I have done it in the past without it and had little to no issues.
@@3DandTeePrinting Thank you very much, i’ll try it without the thermal paste.
@ronaldogomes5335 it's also called BORON NITRIDE. Not sure if you have Amazon in Brazil. That's where I get mine from. I use one from SLICE ENGINEERING they may ship to Brazil. One tube last a while.
www.sliceengineering.com/products/boron-nitride-paste?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiArLyuBhA7EiwA-qo80JmNxq1YV9EBEqctF4YM8Gsdm_-Mujqd7xV35LON-N6lnMMkdc2pOhoChEsQAvD_BwE
Hey, a friend of mine gave this hotend to me but i have the ender 3v2 and i was wondering if i can put this o the v2, i tried to search but didn't found anyone who tried this before, do you have any sugestions?
Do you mean V3?
@@3DandTeePrinting no, i wanted to know if i can put this ceramic hotend on a ender 3v2