MAGNET POLARITY. By the way, just in case I am not the only guy who did not know that the magnets glued to the wheel for the speedometer are polarity sensitive.......they are and naturally, I got one wrong. I was getting MPH readings that felt like half the speed I was actually going. I took the pickup off my bracket and ran it over each magnet and one did not pickup. Reprogrammed speedo to 1 magnet then tested. Speed went up as expected. Removed incorrectly installed magnet and flipped it over. Success. In addition and unrelated, I added a headlight on/off switch to my project rather than running the headlight at all times. As a result of how I wired it, I was getting voltage bleed when in headlight low beam mode that was lighting up the (although dimmer) the blue bright light indicator light. Added a diode and rectified that.
You are the hero. I've been juggling into these modes and messing with the numbers, trying to understand and to fit it with my bike. And then you give me full explanations about it.
Excellent job presenting this in such a clear and simple way! Your two videos totally helped me install mine! I was fortunate to get a set of instructions with mine that matched what you did, wire colors and all, but the chinglish was so bad I had no clue what it was trying to tell me. You rock!!!
Sir, you are my HERO! I had this meter for a while, but no idea how to set it up. Numerous manuals instructed a different menu to setup the circumference etc but I got this mode 1, mode 2 like in the video, for which I was unable to find a manual how to set it up and what it meant. Thanks to you I am now finally able to see my actual speed! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
hi my fuel gauge light keeps flashing i have tried earthing the wire but that did not work do i need to use a 30 ohm resister thanks for all this information great video
This video has helped me and many others, thank you for taking the time to make this. Unfortunately on my techo, mode 2 is the number of cylinders of the motor, fortunately my techo was only $20. Again, thank you for making this video. Keep up the great work.
Thanks a tonne for these bids mate, wouldn't have managed to wire it up without them. Got it all working, option three...the cylinder option on mine was already set to 2 on my single cylinder. In case anyone has the same problem I just said there were two magnets and only attached one. Tested it with GPS Speedo and it's spot on. Cheers again
Great. to clarify the magnets relate to the travelling speed and not the engine speed. The settings for the cylinders that are 1, 2 or 4 relate to the actual engine speed. Hope that makes sense. For travelling speed the more magnets you use the more accurate the low speed readings will be. It wont make much difference at higher speeds
I thought so too, but the rpm reads correctly set at 2 instead of 1 but it did double the kph, hence the reduction to one magnet. Maybe something got lost in the wiring, or it's a slightly different version (or I'm missing something stupid)...it's working fine, so thanks again.
Thank you so much for this. It seems that there are at least 2 different versions of this out there. The older ones have you enter a code of either 123 or 888 when the display shows CCC---, however if you get no CCC--- it does not need a code and it will work as you show. The older ones the menu is very different. Mine is the newer one and had no instructions. I was mostly there, but this helped in the few things I had not confirmed.
Thanks man. The settings part was all I was missing. BTW... I have seeing 2 different type of settings in models that look alike.. I wonder about color schematics..., but the pinning in the sockets matches the description
FUEL GAUGE Some of the posts on this and other videos state that grounding the fuel gauge wire (blue and white) will cause the fuel gauge to stop flashing. With my ones (3 of them) this was not the case. I have found that you need to ground it via a resistance of between 30 to 500 ohm. Anything more or less wont have any effect. 500ohm displays 1 bar (of 8) i.e. almost empty. 30ohm displays 8 bars (full). (about 330ohm is half full etc.) So if grounding the fuel wire doesn't work for you, try grounding it through a resistor between 30 and 500 ohms.
Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..THANK YOU!!!! BEST REGARDS FROM THESSALONIKI GREECE
This is the most helpful video out there thank you... I have a question tho ... How do you reset the odometer (menu 5) ? You explained what mode 5 does but not how to actually reset the odometer. I know you will probably not see this after all this time but I would like to thank you anyways. Cheers.
Hi Angelus, not 100% sure. But when on mode 5 try press and hold the button and if that doesn't work, when in 5 mode, press button and don't hold and see what happens. I'm not sure if it fully resets or if it takes off X km's each time you select that mode. Good thing is that its definitely mode 5, you just need to test these options to figure out how to reset. Good luck...
@@Mezzmoengineering Hello there,I tried both options before I comment but they didn't work that's why I asked for your help. I think the instructions state that you can delete 200km at a time for 3 times and then you can enter the mode again to clear more. The thing is that I have 200km and I want to clear exactly 200 km but it won't let me. If I figure it out I will reply here. Thank you for investing the time to reply to my comment.
@@PureVenomthe1 Hi mate. OK, might be a long shot but perhaps try again once the distance goes over 201km, maybe it needs to be higher than 200km before it will reset.
@Classic Celicas and more :Is it advisable to put a fuse in between red wire which is connected directly to battery postive used for continuous power supply? How did you fixed yours ? With or without fuse?
Hi Maddy, yes I forgot to mention this. You're right there should be a fuse. I did this on mine, all power cables on my build go through a fuse except for the main cable going to the starter motor.
Classic Celicas and more Thanks for your reply and your detailed videos on wiring .i just installed this digital speedo in to my Royal Enfield 350 cc cast iron type engine . I ll start testing this speedo on road in one or two days. Will seek your help again just in case ;) . Once again thanks for your time and help. Cheers
Is there any way to double the rpm signal as my meter is only showing half of the bike rpm coz my cylinder setting was already 2 instead of 1 in Speedometer settings?
Classic Celicas and more : my bike is single cylinder single coil so which mode will be accurate as per your opinion ? Speedometer in option 3 just showing either 2 cylinder or 4 cylinder.
Mine has strange speed readings. I used all 3 magnets, equally spaced, on the brake rotor. The sensor needs to be very close (within 1 mm) to sense the magnets. When I start driving it all goes pretty well untill approx 30km/h and then it starts going crazy. Jumps from 30 to 50 or even more, not steady readings and while I am driving around 40-50 it shows 120 and goes up and down between 25 and 120.
Hello, FYI; It is working okay now. What have I done? First I rotated the magnets, because of their polarity. Now the sensor does not have to be within 1 mm of the magnets. 2-3mm works ok. But I still had no good solid readings with 3 magnets or with 2. With just 1 magnet I seem to get the best solid number in the display. And I think it is pretty accurate. Thanks for the info and video.
Stupid question .as far as the mph reading goes does it matter where the magnet is placed .as in does it matter if the magnet isn't rotating the same circumference as the wheel .hope that makes sense
Its doesn't matter if the magnet runs at a different circumference as the wheel. Reason is it will still do the same amount of revolutions as the wheel no matter where it is....More magnets per rev will give a more accurate speed at low revs....
Thank you, thank you, thank you. The 1 - 12 option on setting #2 had been driving me insane trying to work out what it is for. Have you been able to figure out a way to reintroduce the "1" option back into setting #3? I have a Kawasaki S2 (350 two stroke triple with aftermarket electronic ignition) and it reads way too high, switching from 4 to 2 helped but it still reads 8,000 at idle (it was 11,500 on setting 4!)
Great Video as always. I asked a question about how to stop the blinking and I tried connected it to the ground, but now the blinking of the fuel tank is back on. It's so weird. Any ideas? I already by passed the wire straight to ground on the battery.
Check you are earthing the correct wire. It should be a blue wire with a white strip for the fuel level. Once earthed it will stop blinking and show full. You can see the wire in this video, there is only one wire to earth.
finally managed to solve it. For some reason it wont stop blinking when i try to earthing it. So i tried to connected it to the battery and it works. once again great tutorial
Leave it connected to the power AFTER ignition switch is on...., otherwise it will be always powered up, or just bridge it to the POWER input signal in the gauge, that it is power ON after switch is ON (Memory should be ALWAYS POWERED.. A small inline fuse wont hurt...)
Hello everybody, Installed same tachimeter and It works great but I don't understand how to fix wheel diameter setting, which percentile value XXXX I have to put for Honda Hornet 600 I think front wheel Is 16" or 17" ...need to check tomorrow! Thank you everyone could reply and help me
I NEED HELP ! I saw part 1 but i didn't see anything like my problem... First i had connected both [+]wires (red and black) at the key of my moto so when i turn it on it should move the needle up and down and at the same time the light turnes on, but the settings on the speedo's menu resets every time i turn off the key... 2 days ago I changed it, the red wire is always attached to the battery [+]pole and only the the black wire is on the key so the speedo is always powered on and displaying all gears, speed and gas level but with no backround light (the backround light is the black wire which is powered only if the key is on) Everything was running perfectly but the other day the battery was dead meaning that the speedo shouldn't be always attached on the [+] pole but if it is not always attached the speedo menu settings resets! Did i do something wrong ?? Please I need your help [my English is not perfect, if you don't understand anything let me know]
Hi mate, if your wiring is like mine you need to have the solid red wire from the tacho connected directly to the battery so it has power all of the time. The solid green wire goes to earth and the solid black wire is power whenever your ignition is on. The solid red wire uses extremely low power and won’t drain the battery. Hope this helps
@Mezzmoengineering The way you just said is exactly the same as mine now, but this way, any time i turn off the ignition, the speedo keeps a green neutral indication and if I can see well, the tahometer is also working with the ignition off When I turn on the ignition, the only thing that changes is the background light That's may why it is killing the battery
@@aggelosprintezis1808 There must be a problem with the speedo if you have the solid red wire on the battery feed. Maybe just check that you don't have power feeding any other cables when the ignition is off other than the solid red,.
@@aggelosprintezis1808 Something not right. Chinese can sometimes mess the wiring colors up, maybe see if the ignition power is actually the mains power. Otherwise, its probably faulty. Its a cheap tacho, I did another video on the XJ650 build showing a high quality tacho that works perfectly....
Great video. I got zero instructions with my order so this was a great help. Thanks for taking the time. I installed mine on a LIFAN 125CC powered '71 Honda CT70, therefore, no fuel level signals available. I grounded (earthed) the blue/white wire as you suggested and nothing happened. The fuel indicator continued to flash. Any suggestions on how to make it either look full or empty and stop flashing? Thanks
Hi, earthing should work. You could try adding a resistor between the wire and earth so it earths through a resistor. The resistor should be about 8 to 10 ohms, that should work...Some one else fixed it by putting power to that wire but I would try the resistor first as it should be set up to earth
Hi mate, if you use more than 1 magnet you need to ensure they are equally spaced to get an accurate reading. First magnet pulses at whole revolution and second pulses at half a rev. If you use 3 then space them so they are 1/3 of the circumference. One magent works fine, just 2 is better at slower speeds
any help about speedometer/ speed sensor? mine is not working by hand. i get some metering when i dont click the 2 parts (speed sensorto 3 wholes). its a problem from the sensor ? the magnets? or just the speedometer has problem? i cannot find anything. everything else is working
Hi i watch the setup video about the cylinders So ir saying when u change it from 1 cylinder to 2 or 4 u can not go back to cylinder 1 or 2 let me know thanks
Hi mate, unless they have changed the design, once you change from 1 to 2,3 or 4 you cannot go back to 1. Once changed it will only have options of 2, 3 or 4.
@@Mezzmoengineering ok so 1 is default as one cylinder right if it os then i dont care because my bike is V2 Cylinders with 4 strokes and 2 coils on each cylinder
I also have one mechanical woth all digital and it let me switch from 1 2 and 3 over and over for the cylinders im not sure why they dont they make all like that if someone buy it and have 2 cylinder then sell it and the person have one cylinder his scrued As ot wont go on cylinder 1 in the settings anymore...
@@myhoyoki At the end of the day, this is just a cheap chinese tacho. It works well but not the best option in terms of quality. For my bike build I used an Acewell speedo which is an excellent speedo with a lot of flexibility. Check it out if you want, ua-cam.com/video/hQOvKcha4Ms/v-deo.html
trying to wire mine up. When I turn on ignition, everything works fine, but when I start the bike everything on the lcd display lights up, that is for the gear I get 8, fuel tank full, battery light on, etc. etc. Any chance anyone has faced a similar issue?
Thank you very much, your videos have been very helpfull!!! Any ideas on how to reset that thing or how to set it for 1 cylinder? I have a yamaha xtz750 (dual cylinder 360degree, single coil). Initially I set it for 2 cylinders but it reads x4 the rpm and x2 the rpm when set for 4 cylinders. By the way on the xtz750 the tacho won't work neither conected to the original tacho signal cable nor the ignition coil low side (with or without the capacitor/resistor mod). It only works conected to the pick up coil pos side and it would probably be the same for the tdm850 3vd (identical motor). Just my 2 cents...
The rpm signal seems to have a few variables. On my engine it didn't work from either side of the coil. If it worked for you then that's awesome, I have just heard for a few people it damages the tacho. Maybe the voltage is lower on some coils, not sure. As log as it works that's the main thing. Once the setting for the cylinders is changed I don't know how to get it back to one cylinder.
I connected it to the Pick up sensor of the Magnet, the same signal that goes to the CDI to give a signal that is in top position. Seems to me that is only a ground signal that gives the pulse either to the CDI or the Tacho. Saw it in another video, together with other ways of connecting it, and it seemed to me the least risky. I had no problems and works fine for me. Good luck
Great video !! So much help with the settings. But my question Is I installed this on my bike and I'm having difficulty with the speedo magnets hall sensor set up. I've mounted to my rear wheel and placed magnets on the heads of the bolts of the rim I have 5 so I used 5 magnets. When I drive my speedo is very jumpy and will not read over 29km/h. Once the speed increases past 29 it drops to 11km/h and just stays at that till my speed drops back down. I believe I have all my setting right. Any ideas what could be wrong is it better to only use 2 sensors. And also money came with 2 thick magnets that are grey in colour and the 5 or 6 regular shiny magnets that are not as thick what is the purpose of them?? Please help!!
Hi mate, I think two magnets are enough, more magnets are better for slow speeds. So unless you ride around at 10km/hr or less then 5 is not required. Also, make sure the magnets are approx 2mm from the sensor and they are spaced at 180 degree from each other on the wheel. Finally magnets are polarity sensitive so try installing them the other way around, eg turn them over.
Excellent video, thanks. Anybody has a problem with revolution when switching the key??? Mine sometimes stops at la 12k rpm and need reswitch to 0 rpm. I've changed 1 Cylinder to 2 by error 🥺🥺🥺
Hi . Really useful video. But can you tell me if it will make any difference to which cylinder setting if i am putting this on a Harley which has got twin plug head conversion using a pair of twin coils?( i.e four plugs ).
I just picked up this speedometer. A couple questions...First on the setup there was a setting for the fuel level it had two settings. If you changed that to the other setting would it have reversed the settings so you wouldn't have had to bend the float the other way? Also my speedo came with 6 magnets. Is it better to use more magnets or less? I thought of using 3, keeping 3 in case they fall off. Also someone said the sensor is polarity sensitive. The magnets are market with red on side and blank on the other. What should be facing out? TIA
... I would assume the blank side should face out. Others don't even have such marks. Chinese are so prone to leave you wondering how to with their usually bad english guidelines... That's if they provide with any at all!
@@MFP2241 Thanks for that info. BTW do you know how far away the pick can be before it can't read the magnet? I'm having an issue with trying to figure out where to mount it. Thanks.
Forgive me if I missed it, but have you wired the tachometer wire to the coil directly? Other reviews are going on about needing to wire in capacitors and resistors to get the rpm working lol. Thanks buddy.
Doh I see you used the pulse generator now from other comments. My bike already has a tach output so I may try that first. I've yet to order the gauge, just trying to make the right decision for which gauge and this has helped a lot. Thanks.
Hi, I haven't tried and mine worked connecting to the pick up signal from the crank. Direct to coil might work but others say the voltage is too high. Perhaps confirm what you find....MY advice would be to try to avoid connecting directly to the coil unless nothing else has worked
Okay thanks buddy. Pretty sure I will go with the same gauge, though there are quite a few different styles out there. I've previously used Acewell and Koso and they are very good gauges but I just don't have the money for that expense these days. Thanks again.
hey, great video! do you know how to dissassembly the speedo? Because I tried loosening the 3 screws that it has on the back, but it seems to only loose the pcb, not the plastic in the front (I need to clean the glass from the inside :/ ) thanks!
Hey sir, my speedometer won't work properly. When i turn the ignition off the speedometer will quickly cut-off as well and the hand of the tachometer will remain where it stay before i cut off the engine the tachometer hand will not go back to zero rpm. Btw we have a same speedometer. I hope you'll help me.
Hi Dave, checked your power wiring. Sounds like you might not have the constant power connected properly. this causes your problem. To fix this you need to be sure you have power from the battery connected as per my video.
Hi, great video . I got few questions about this if you don't mind? Does this come with 1-TRIP functionality? 2- how is the visibility of the display in sun daylight? 3-Does the the odometer mileage can be adjusted to match the old motorbike odometer mileage? 4-any issues about water ingressing inside the unit or housing? 5-how is the build quality in general ? many thanks
Thanks mate. Doesn't have a trip meter. Visibility is fine in dark and light. Mileage cannot be matched that I know of. Never had water on it, I suspect it would be fine as its sealed fairly well. Quality is great for the price, at the end of the day you get what you pay for. It was perfect for my mower project, I would buy something better if I needed one for a custom bike but would buy another for a daily bike anytime. Specially now that I've figured out the wiring.
@@Mezzmoengineering thanks a lot mate. Unfortunatly no trip meter for me is a deal breaker without this i will run out of petrol as i got no fuel gauge sensor in my bike. Are you absolutly sure this is not so sort of hidden functionality somehwere? Cheers
@@fixall336 Not hidden function. It has an odometer that can be reset via the mode settings, but no trip meter. Resetting odometer is via the rear button, whilst you could use that it would be a hassle and ultimately you won't know total distance traveled over time. Maybe you could add a level sensor to your tank and use the fuel gauge instead....
@@Mezzmoengineering I like your idea of adding a fuel gauge sensor in my tank. i would like to find a video tutorial on that as I guess I would need to cut my fuel tank.
@@fixall336 Yeah, thats what I did. Maybe look for a sender unit from a tank of similar size. You just need a hole in the tank with a flange to bolt to. Also check ebay for tanks that have senders or pics online so you can see how its set up....
The gear signal of the tacho works by earthing each of the signal cables. There's a sensor in the engine gearbox, for each gear this sensor takes the specific gear to earth. All gears including neutral are from the gearbox sensor and go to the tacho
HI thanks for great set up video part 1 & 2 i have a Yamaha FZR 1000 4 cylinder 2 coils i have a problem with the Taco i have set it up on mode 3 & set to 2 coils with the yellow /black wire connected on to the grey wire from the crank pick up but it reads 8,000 rpm at idle . when i connect it to the black wire it reads 1,000 rpm at idle great but when i bring it up to 3,000 rpm it is very erratic and if i rev it to about 4,000 rpm it reads 12,000 rpm any help would be appreciated cheers
Hi Rick, you might need to try installing a resistor in that line as it might be getting some interference from the system. Google speedo idle pick ups as there's info around and ideas that have worked for others.
@@Mezzmoengineering Hi thanks for your reply. my Original taco wire went to the grey wire out of the ECU . at the moment i have only tried the taco yellow / black wire on to the crank pick up grey wire then taco reads 8,000 rpm at idle . i have tried google but not found any information i think your right a resistor might be the answer but not sure which one thanks
Great video!! most usefull video i found! just one question i have, red cable goes directly to battery and black cable goes to +12v to key switch?so it knows when you turn it on?what if i put both cables to key switch so i dont run a cable from battery at the rear end to the speedometer that it is at the front?you think this could work?
Hi, sure that will work too. The only issue is that you will most likely find that the tacho needle will get stuck at whatever rpm its doing when power goes off. The background power ensures that it always goes back to zero
since you are familiar,i have only one issue left,i connected everything and it works great apart RPM...i own a xv250 that is 2 cylinder...i tried to take signal from the wires that go to ignition coil but it is not working at all,it does work if it takes signal from pickup coil but if i choose 2 cylinder in the menu it shows x4 what it should....if i choose 4 cylinder it shows x2 what it should.....any ideas?isnt it a little weird?if in 2 cylinder shows x4 logic would be in 4 cylinder to show x8 i suppose...
That is odd, sounds like you have the correct signal. Mine is set to 2 cylinder even though its 4 cylinder. Its because I have two coils instead of 4. Do you have one twin post coil? Did you try the other cables from the pick up point from the crank?
Ok, but how do you wire this? What is the "red" wire for explain as "memory"? Memory of what? And connect to "who"? Positive? Also I have 1 cylinder (wire as 1 cylinder) but I can't set that mode 3 in 1 cylinder. Only shows 2 or 4 options for cylinder. I personally take this speedometer as shitty one. Not recommend for shitty manual installation.
Hi, check part 1. I show exactly how its wired. Once you move mode 3 out of option 1 it cannot go back, you only then have 2 or 4. I dont know of any way to get it back to 1 cylinder hence why I suggest not changing it if you have a 1 cylinder. Sure, its not the best tacho around, I guess you just get what you pay for....
Classic Celicas and more. Ok, I have watched part 1 and I understand why my speedo running "funny" up to 4t rpm. That solid "red" I didn't connect to power In directly to "all the time". I try to do it and I see what happens. Thank you for explaining. PS. Chinese should pay you for this video :)
Hi, No you just get the tacho, you usually don't get anything else, not even a wiring diagram. You need to use an existing sender unit or buy one separately.
Installed this on my Suzuki vz400. can't get to the menu. pressing button for 3 seconds does nothing. power on holding the button also does nothing. Shows gear, neutral, revs all ok. but can't set perimeter of wheel cause can't enter the settings. any help pls?
@@Mezzmoengineering I bought my Suzuki used so I don't know what the previous owner did. from what I see, behind my speedometer there is the 25? pin adaptor but also there is a speedometer cable going down to the wheel. There aren't any magnets. I don't know how they did that but the speed displayed on my speedometer is almost half the real.
I don't know of a way to get back to option 1 once its changed. Someone may have a solution but at this point I don't know of any way of going back....
Really glad you posted this instruction video. Unfortunately I pushed a lot of buttons before I found this vid and now my option 3 is on 2-4 cilinder mode while I have a single. So strange that there is no way to get it back!. I've just send a message to my seller but wonder if they know how and to what extend I'll be able to understand the chinglish reply.
I accidentally clicked on to two cylinders and I only have 1 and I shit out of luck? Is there no factory reset or if I leave it un plugged for awhile will it reset to default
Hi Carlos, I don't know your specific bike but check my video and try get the pick up signal from the crank. Not the positive of the coils. It should work....
Iv just bought one of these and mine is not picking up any mph iv both magnets glued to the disk . Does anyone no if the magnets have to be a certain way round
Check your wiring and video 1 for this. The solid red wire must have power all the time. Having said that I can completely unplug my tacho and back in again without losing any settings.
Your fuel sender might not have the right resistance. check the empty and full resistance, from memory mine was 8ohms to around 90ohms. This gauge cannot deal with all resistances but it has a couple of options. You might want to try installing a resistor on the cable feeding the speedo to change the input signal, try different resistors.
@@tomasignaciomatamalabaez8527 First you need to measure the empty and full resistance of your sender unit. In option 4, if you pick mode 2 it matches a resistance range of 10 -90ohms from memory. If you sender is higher then first try mode 3 and if that fails you need to add resistors to get the right range. for example, say your sender read 40ohms but you need it to be 90ohms then you add a 50 ohm resistor in series, you then need to minus that amount for the low reading too. Hope that makes sense.
Hi, did you check the wiring based on my video in part 1 and also the instructions are on the link above on my facebook page. You must have connected something wrong
hey man, I can't get the tacho to work. I've got a 95 cbr900rr, 4 cylinder, two coils. I've attached the tacho wire to the pulse generator like you have, but just before the cdi box instead the back of the pickup. It is idling at 6,000rpm and doesn't behave appropriately when revved :-( HELP ME!
Hmmm, check you have mode 3 set to 2. Also, perhaps you connected to the wrong cable. I don't know your engine but there is most likely 4 wires from the pulse generator, try changing the cable and see if it works properly. If you have 4 cylinders with 2 coils and mode 3 set to 2 then the problem must be that you connected to the wrong cable....
So, I've checked everything, there's only two wires from the pulse generator, one works, one doesn't. However it is shit. It jumps around like mad, I've set it to 2 cylinders from 4 and it now idles at 10k and still bounces around erratically :(. The original tacho wire (for the original gauge) doesn't give a signal at all either. I think maybe I got a broken gauge!
I think your bike has an ignition control box which should already have a wire to feed the tacho. Have you connected to that wire? www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/cbr900rr-ignition-system-circuit.png
Hi, Neutral is just earth via your gear selector. First just earth the neutral cable from the tacho so you know which wire it is and then connect it to the neutral signal from your gear selector. Very easy as long as you have a neutral signal from your engine
Instructive video, congrats .. But... My STUPID repairman put the 2 magnets ON to the OTHER TOP and PASTED it.. Mileage counter measures 1/2 speed.. When i'm 50 km. it reading 25 km. is the magnets be the cause of this?? i choose 1 magnets but it not solve.. if i do in the first part of menu my tire size x2, is it solve ?? Also my bike 1 cylinder but they choose 2.. Can i reset this ?? or what is the effect of it ?? And I don't have gasoline buoy on my bike.. Does the fuel gauge works even so ??
Hi, I think you should fit the 2 magnets separately and 180 degrees from each other to fix the fault. Otherwise you could double the circumference if its still less than 2999mm. As I mention in the video, if you have 1 cylinder you do not mess with mode 3, once it goes out of 1 cylinder then it cannot go back.... If you dont have a fuel gauge just earth the sensor cable and the gauge will show full.
En el seting 1 se pone la circunferencia de la CUBIERTA del eje en que esta puesto el sensor de velocidad. En El setting 2, se pone la cantidad de IMANES que activan el sensor de velocidad por vuelta, El seting 3 Se supone que es el numero de DISPAROS de corriente por ciclo de 360 grados (la mitad para motores de 4 tiempos...). Dicen que si lo moves del numero 1, no podes volver a 1, asi que dejalo en 1, y si la cantidad de RPM es la mitad de lo que en realidad es, lo podes subir a 2, y asi, en caso que tengas 4 cilindros . El setting 4 son posibles valores de resistencias de distintos modelos de medidor de COMBUSTIBLE. Llena el tanque, y cambia numeros hasta que te marque lleno (cuidado que la senal del medidor puede estar invertida.. y tendras que hacer algo al respecto). El setting 5 es para hacer reseteo al instrumento, y muestra la cantidad de veces que se ha hecho. Suerte
just did mine, no matter what I do, the rpm just won't work, I tested the rpm signal with a LED light, it blinks right, the fuel gauge also wont work no matter what. all others lights work. I guess I got a bad unit.
Check you have selected the current resistance range for your fuel tank. I took the pick up signal for the tacho from the crank trigger. Don't connect direct to the coil as its likely to damage the unit.
@@Mezzmoengineering Yes I've used the pickup signal too, the old speedo on the bike also used that signal. I shorted the fuel signal to ground, tried mode 2 and 3, no bar displayed. pretty sure this one I got is bad, or not sure how I damaged it? I just bought another unit
@@Mezzmoengineering I was gonna ask you some information about the motorcycle gauge' I'm linking it to my Celica. I think I figured it out only thing left is to figure out the gas level and calibrate the system from the button in the back.
@@Sargon77757 It could work. Just follow the video instructions. I don't know the resistance of the celicas fuel sender but if its wrong you could mess with other resistors to get it to the right range. Don't know anyone thats done it though
Chinglishhhh haahaahaahahaaaaaaaaaa, I need it in spanish right now, my sportster speedometer decided not to work anymore. I got mine yesterday. Plugs are the same but the wires color code changed...
MAGNET POLARITY. By the way, just in case I am not the only guy who did not know that the magnets glued to the wheel for the speedometer are polarity sensitive.......they are and naturally, I got one wrong. I was getting MPH readings that felt like half the speed I was actually going. I took the pickup off my bracket and ran it over each magnet and one did not pickup. Reprogrammed speedo to 1 magnet then tested. Speed went up as expected. Removed incorrectly installed magnet and flipped it over. Success. In addition and unrelated, I added a headlight on/off switch to my project rather than running the headlight at all times. As a result of how I wired it, I was getting voltage bleed when in headlight low beam mode that was lighting up the (although dimmer) the blue bright light indicator light. Added a diode and rectified that.
was it working before drilling and gluing? i mean by hand. i dont get any speed with mine. only if i just touch the cables by hand (no magnets)
You are the hero. I've been juggling into these modes and messing with the numbers, trying to understand and to fit it with my bike. And then you give me full explanations about it.
Glad to have helped
Excellent job presenting this in such a clear and simple way! Your two videos totally helped me install mine! I was fortunate to get a set of instructions with mine that matched what you did, wire colors and all, but the chinglish was so bad I had no clue what it was trying to tell me. You rock!!!
Thanks David, glad it helped
Sir, you are my HERO!
I had this meter for a while, but no idea how to set it up.
Numerous manuals instructed a different menu to setup the circumference etc but I got this mode 1, mode 2 like in the video, for which I was unable to find a manual how to set it up and what it meant.
Thanks to you I am now finally able to see my actual speed!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Glad it helped
They have mechanical input on these now, but still the most relivent info on this gauge. Thanks.
Thanks for showing how to enter the settings. I had not been able to figure that out!
Glad I could help!
Very well explained. I needed this as my unit came without instructions. I earthed the fuel gauge via a 30 ohm resister. Thanks a lot.
Great, glad it worked for you
hi my fuel gauge light keeps flashing i have tried earthing the wire but that did not work do i need to use a 30 ohm resister
thanks for all this information great video
This video has helped me and many others, thank you for taking the time to make this. Unfortunately on my techo, mode 2 is the number of cylinders of the motor, fortunately my techo was only $20.
Again, thank you for making this video. Keep up the great work.
Thanks a tonne for these bids mate, wouldn't have managed to wire it up without them. Got it all working, option three...the cylinder option on mine was already set to 2 on my single cylinder. In case anyone has the same problem I just said there were two magnets and only attached one. Tested it with GPS Speedo and it's spot on. Cheers again
Great. to clarify the magnets relate to the travelling speed and not the engine speed. The settings for the cylinders that are 1, 2 or 4 relate to the actual engine speed. Hope that makes sense. For travelling speed the more magnets you use the more accurate the low speed readings will be. It wont make much difference at higher speeds
I thought so too, but the rpm reads correctly set at 2 instead of 1 but it did double the kph, hence the reduction to one magnet. Maybe something got lost in the wiring, or it's a slightly different version (or I'm missing something stupid)...it's working fine, so thanks again.
Maybe, anyway it works. That's the main thing, good work!
Thanks for the video! its very clear and concise, without it id be buggered! Well done fella wish you and your family well!
Thanks Christian
Thx mate, great help!
Greetings from the Netherlands
Erwin
Thanks Erwin, glad it helped you
Thank you so much for this. It seems that there are at least 2 different versions of this out there. The older ones have you enter a code of either 123 or 888 when the display shows CCC---, however if you get no CCC--- it does not need a code and it will work as you show. The older ones the menu is very different. Mine is the newer one and had no instructions. I was mostly there, but this helped in the few things I had not confirmed.
Same, mine came with the old instructions that were of no use. Lots of trial and error but I eventually got it right.
Thanks man. The settings part was all I was missing. BTW... I have seeing 2 different type of settings in models that look alike.. I wonder about color schematics..., but the pinning in the sockets matches the description
FUEL GAUGE
Some of the posts on this and other videos state that grounding the fuel gauge wire (blue and white) will cause the fuel gauge to stop flashing. With my ones (3 of them) this was not the case. I have found that you need to ground it via a resistance of between 30 to 500 ohm. Anything more or less wont have any effect. 500ohm displays 1 bar (of 8) i.e. almost empty. 30ohm displays 8 bars (full). (about 330ohm is half full etc.) So if grounding the fuel wire doesn't work for you, try grounding it through a resistor between 30 and 500 ohms.
thats my problem also sir the fuel gauge
ua-cam.com/video/cgX4zpjx0us/v-deo.html
I happened to randomly choose 330 ohms and can confirm it's about half full. I can't believe how much money I'll save on fuel now!
Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..Thank You ..THANK YOU!!!! BEST REGARDS FROM THESSALONIKI GREECE
Thanks Mike, glad it helped you out
Thank You very mmuch for this Part 2 and Part 1 !!!!
brilliant video. will definitely be using when i set up mine
Amazing stuff. Very helpful, thank you!
The savior! Thank you
You're welcome!
Wicked video thanks for the help and upload
Very educational great job
Great video! thanks for the help
Glad it helped!
Perfect video. Thanks you
Really helpful, thanks. My rev counter won’t work. At least I know that I’ve wired all up right😃
This is the most helpful video out there thank you... I have a question tho ... How do you reset the odometer (menu 5) ? You explained what mode 5 does but not how to actually reset the odometer. I know you will probably not see this after all this time but I would like to thank you anyways. Cheers.
Hi Angelus, not 100% sure. But when on mode 5 try press and hold the button and if that doesn't work, when in 5 mode, press button and don't hold and see what happens. I'm not sure if it fully resets or if it takes off X km's each time you select that mode. Good thing is that its definitely mode 5, you just need to test these options to figure out how to reset. Good luck...
@@Mezzmoengineering Hello there,I tried both options before I comment but they didn't work that's why I asked for your help.
I think the instructions state that you can delete 200km at a time for 3 times and then you can enter the mode again to clear more.
The thing is that I have 200km and I want to clear exactly 200 km but it won't let me.
If I figure it out I will reply here.
Thank you for investing the time to reply to my comment.
@@PureVenomthe1 Hi mate. OK, might be a long shot but perhaps try again once the distance goes over 201km, maybe it needs to be higher than 200km before it will reset.
@@Mezzmoengineering Thanks I will try later . Have a great holiday.
Great help thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thanks a lot mate.You save my day.
really appreciate the well done video... thanks
@Classic Celicas and more :Is it advisable to put a fuse in between red wire which is connected directly to battery postive used for continuous power supply? How did you fixed yours ? With or without fuse?
Hi Maddy, yes I forgot to mention this. You're right there should be a fuse. I did this on mine, all power cables on my build go through a fuse except for the main cable going to the starter motor.
Classic Celicas and more Thanks for your reply and your detailed videos on wiring .i just installed this digital speedo in to my Royal Enfield 350 cc cast iron type engine . I ll start testing this speedo on road in one or two days. Will seek your help again just in case ;) . Once again thanks for your time and help. Cheers
Is there any way to double the rpm signal as my meter is only showing half of the bike rpm coz my cylinder setting was already 2 instead of 1 in Speedometer settings?
@@mandymoni Yes, you need to change the mode as per video. I had that problem and changed from 4 to 2 because I had dual coils.
Classic Celicas and more : my bike is single cylinder single coil so which mode will be accurate as per your opinion ? Speedometer in option 3 just showing either 2 cylinder or 4 cylinder.
Hello-great video and nice instructions! Thanks for that!
Thanks for your instructions, everything works just perfect. I'm just a little bit curious, how to mount it? There was no mounting bracket included :/
Hi Mate, there are two bolt holes in the back you can utilise to mount to a custom bracket. Thats how I did it...
Thank you for this information!!!
Thanks mate this help a lot👍
No problem 👍
Mine has strange speed readings. I used all 3 magnets, equally spaced, on the brake rotor. The sensor needs to be very close (within 1 mm) to sense the magnets. When I start driving it all goes pretty well untill approx 30km/h and then it starts going crazy. Jumps from 30 to 50 or even more, not steady readings and while I am driving around 40-50 it shows 120 and goes up and down between 25 and 120.
Seems odd, maybe try using just one or two magnets
@@Mezzmoengineering I will try that
Hello, FYI; It is working okay now. What have I done? First I rotated the magnets, because of their polarity. Now the sensor does not have to be within 1 mm of the magnets. 2-3mm works ok. But I still had no good solid readings with 3 magnets or with 2. With just 1 magnet I seem to get the best solid number in the display. And I think it is pretty accurate. Thanks for the info and video.
great instruction!
I have installed two of these on BMW k75s. They power up ok but they don’t have lights coming on the screens. Any idea . Thanks Tim
Hi Tim, hard to say other than check all the wiring. These are cheap tachos so it could also be faulty.
Stupid question .as far as the mph reading goes does it matter where the magnet is placed .as in does it matter if the magnet isn't rotating the same circumference as the wheel .hope that makes sense
Its doesn't matter if the magnet runs at a different circumference as the wheel. Reason is it will still do the same amount of revolutions as the wheel no matter where it is....More magnets per rev will give a more accurate speed at low revs....
thanks for that mate
I’ve been wondering this also. Cuz I don’t know how it matters what the tire size is if the magnets are in a totally different spot. Good question.
does the diameter x pie work for a bike wheel to ?
LOL, Pie X D works for any circle circumference
Thank you, thank you, thank you. The 1 - 12 option on setting #2 had been driving me insane trying to work out what it is for. Have you been able to figure out a way to reintroduce the "1" option back into setting #3? I have a Kawasaki S2 (350 two stroke triple with aftermarket electronic ignition) and it reads way too high, switching from 4 to 2 helped but it still reads 8,000 at idle (it was 11,500 on setting 4!)
Hi mate, I don't know of any way to get option 1 back.
@@Mezzmoengineering Thanks anyway, stay well & stay safe
Great Video as always. I asked a question about how to stop the blinking and I tried connected it to the ground, but now the blinking of the fuel tank is back on. It's so weird. Any ideas? I already by passed the wire straight to ground on the battery.
Check you are earthing the correct wire. It should be a blue wire with a white strip for the fuel level. Once earthed it will stop blinking and show full. You can see the wire in this video, there is only one wire to earth.
finally managed to solve it. For some reason it wont stop blinking when i try to earthing it.
So i tried to connected it to the battery and it works.
once again great tutorial
Leave it connected to the power AFTER ignition switch is on...., otherwise it will be always powered up, or just bridge it to the POWER input signal in the gauge, that it is power ON after switch is ON (Memory should be ALWAYS POWERED.. A small inline fuse wont hurt...)
If my stock speedo doesnt have gear indicator is there a way to put gear undicator on my motorcycle?
Hello everybody,
Installed same tachimeter and It works great but I don't understand how to fix wheel diameter setting, which percentile value XXXX I have to put for Honda Hornet 600 I think front wheel Is 16" or 17" ...need to check tomorrow!
Thank you everyone could reply and help me
Hi mate, I explain how to do that in the video. Check at 3:15
I NEED HELP !
I saw part 1 but i didn't see anything like my problem... First i had connected both [+]wires (red and black) at the key of my moto so when i turn it on it should move the needle up and down and at the same time the light turnes on, but the settings on the speedo's menu resets every time i turn off the key... 2 days ago I changed it, the red wire is always attached to the battery [+]pole and only the the black wire is on the key so the speedo is always powered on and displaying all gears, speed and gas level but with no backround light (the backround light is the black wire which is powered only if the key is on) Everything was running perfectly but the other day the battery was dead meaning that the speedo shouldn't be always attached on the [+] pole but if it is not always attached the speedo menu settings resets!
Did i do something wrong ?? Please I need your help
[my English is not perfect, if you don't understand anything let me know]
Hi mate, if your wiring is like mine you need to have the solid red wire from the tacho connected directly to the battery so it has power all of the time. The solid green wire goes to earth and the solid black wire is power whenever your ignition is on. The solid red wire uses extremely low power and won’t drain the battery. Hope this helps
@Mezzmoengineering that's what I thought. Thanks for your time, but my red wire kills the battery after 5-6 hours.
It may be broken 😔
@Mezzmoengineering The way you just said is exactly the same as mine now, but this way, any time i turn off the ignition, the speedo keeps a green neutral indication and if I can see well, the tahometer is also working with the ignition off
When I turn on the ignition, the only thing that changes is the background light
That's may why it is killing the battery
@@aggelosprintezis1808 There must be a problem with the speedo if you have the solid red wire on the battery feed. Maybe just check that you don't have power feeding any other cables when the ignition is off other than the solid red,.
@@aggelosprintezis1808 Something not right. Chinese can sometimes mess the wiring colors up, maybe see if the ignition power is actually the mains power. Otherwise, its probably faulty. Its a cheap tacho, I did another video on the XJ650 build showing a high quality tacho that works perfectly....
Thanks for a great instruction! You say that it is only for 1, 2, or 4 cylinder engines? So it will not work on a triple?
I've never had a triple cylinder, what engine do you have....There might be a way but the tacho is for 1, 2 and 4 cylinders.
Hi there this video helped me a Lot 1 question though have you find a way to go back to 1 cylinder at all yet
Hi Dave, I'm not aware of any way to get back to 1 cylinder.
Great video. I got zero instructions with my order so this was a great help. Thanks for taking the time. I installed mine on a LIFAN 125CC powered '71 Honda CT70, therefore, no fuel level signals available. I grounded (earthed) the blue/white wire as you suggested and nothing happened. The fuel indicator continued to flash. Any suggestions on how to make it either look full or empty and stop flashing? Thanks
Hi, earthing should work. You could try adding a resistor between the wire and earth so it earths through a resistor. The resistor should be about 8 to 10 ohms, that should work...Some one else fixed it by putting power to that wire but I would try the resistor first as it should be set up to earth
Did you put the 2 magnets far from each other?
Hi mate, if you use more than 1 magnet you need to ensure they are equally spaced to get an accurate reading. First magnet pulses at whole revolution and second pulses at half a rev. If you use 3 then space them so they are 1/3 of the circumference. One magent works fine, just 2 is better at slower speeds
How do I reset it when I turn it on while holding the button I only get one option I don’t get any other modes
Once you have mode one, leave power on and hold button down again to toggle to next mode
any help about speedometer/ speed sensor? mine is not working by hand. i get some metering when i dont click the 2 parts (speed sensorto 3 wholes). its a problem from the sensor ? the magnets? or just the speedometer has problem? i cannot find anything. everything else is working
Hi mate, check the magnet rotation. They are directional, so turn them over the other way and see if it works
@@Mezzmoengineering yes but did yours worked first by hand? or you had to put it at ur wheel?
@@lices It should work by hand
Hi i watch the setup video about the cylinders
So ir saying when u change it from 1 cylinder to 2 or 4 u can not go back to cylinder 1 or 2 let me know thanks
Hi mate, unless they have changed the design, once you change from 1 to 2,3 or 4 you cannot go back to 1. Once changed it will only have options of 2, 3 or 4.
@@Mezzmoengineering ok so 1 is default as one cylinder right if it os then i dont care because my bike is V2 Cylinders with 4 strokes and 2 coils on each cylinder
I also have one mechanical woth all digital and it let me switch from 1 2 and 3 over and over for the cylinders im not sure why they dont they make all like that if someone buy it and have 2 cylinder then sell it and the person have one cylinder his scrued
As ot wont go on cylinder 1 in the settings anymore...
@@myhoyoki At the end of the day, this is just a cheap chinese tacho. It works well but not the best option in terms of quality. For my bike build I used an Acewell speedo which is an excellent speedo with a lot of flexibility. Check it out if you want, ua-cam.com/video/hQOvKcha4Ms/v-deo.html
Think of buying a new one because on mine settings dont work. Do the cable back come off so I dont have to do all the wiring?
trying to wire mine up. When I turn on ignition, everything works fine, but when I start the bike everything on the lcd display lights up, that is for the gear I get 8, fuel tank full, battery light on, etc. etc. Any chance anyone has faced a similar issue?
Thank you very much, your videos have been very helpfull!!!
Any ideas on how to reset that thing or how to set it for 1 cylinder? I have a yamaha xtz750 (dual cylinder 360degree, single coil). Initially I set it for 2 cylinders but it reads x4 the rpm and x2 the rpm when set for 4 cylinders.
By the way on the xtz750 the tacho won't work neither conected to the original tacho signal cable nor the ignition coil low side (with or without the capacitor/resistor mod). It only works conected to the pick up coil pos side and it would probably be the same for the tdm850 3vd (identical motor). Just my 2 cents...
The rpm signal seems to have a few variables. On my engine it didn't work from either side of the coil. If it worked for you then that's awesome, I have just heard for a few people it damages the tacho. Maybe the voltage is lower on some coils, not sure. As log as it works that's the main thing. Once the setting for the cylinders is changed I don't know how to get it back to one cylinder.
Classic Celicas and more thanks for the instant reply!
I connected it to the Pick up sensor of the Magnet, the same signal that goes to the CDI to give a signal that is in top position. Seems to me that is only a ground signal that gives the pulse either to the CDI or the Tacho. Saw it in another video, together with other ways of connecting it, and it seemed to me the least risky. I had no problems and works fine for me. Good luck
Juan Gil cdi work top it there
Great video !! So much help with the settings. But my question Is I installed this on my bike and I'm having difficulty with the speedo magnets hall sensor set up. I've mounted to my rear wheel and placed magnets on the heads of the bolts of the rim I have 5 so I used 5 magnets. When I drive my speedo is very jumpy and will not read over 29km/h. Once the speed increases past 29 it drops to 11km/h and just stays at that till my speed drops back down. I believe I have all my setting right. Any ideas what could be wrong is it better to only use 2 sensors. And also money came with 2 thick magnets that are grey in colour and the 5 or 6 regular shiny magnets that are not as thick what is the purpose of them?? Please help!!
Hi mate, I think two magnets are enough, more magnets are better for slow speeds. So unless you ride around at 10km/hr or less then 5 is not required. Also, make sure the magnets are approx 2mm from the sensor and they are spaced at 180 degree from each other on the wheel. Finally magnets are polarity sensitive so try installing them the other way around, eg turn them over.
I have a 90/90R18 tire. What is the perfect code i should use?
You need to use a circumference of 1945mm
Thank you very much
i have a freewind 650. I connect the cable that was in the old one, in the new rpm. and does not work.What should I do? thank you very much..
Excellent video, thanks. Anybody has a problem with revolution when switching the key??? Mine sometimes stops at la 12k rpm and need reswitch to 0 rpm.
I've changed 1 Cylinder to 2 by error 🥺🥺🥺
I don't think its possible to get option 1 back again
Hi . Really useful video. But can you tell me if it will make any difference to which cylinder setting if i am putting this on a Harley which has got twin plug head conversion using a pair of twin coils?( i.e four plugs ).
You need to try test it out but I think it needs to set to 2 cylinders
Ok mate.Thanks for getting back to me. I'll try it on two cylinders then.
@@Mezzmoengineering
I just picked up this speedometer. A couple questions...First on the setup there was a setting for the fuel level it had two settings. If you changed that to the other setting would it have reversed the settings so you wouldn't have had to bend the float the other way? Also my speedo came with 6 magnets. Is it better to use more magnets or less? I thought of using 3, keeping 3 in case they fall off. Also someone said the sensor is polarity sensitive. The magnets are market with red on side and blank on the other. What should be facing out? TIA
... I would assume the blank side should face out. Others don't even have such marks. Chinese are so prone to leave you wondering how to with their usually bad english guidelines... That's if they provide with any at all!
@@MFP2241 Thanks for that info. BTW do you know how far away the pick can be before it can't read the magnet? I'm having an issue with trying to figure out where to mount it. Thanks.
In chinglish I'm gone 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Forgive me if I missed it, but have you wired the tachometer wire to the coil directly? Other reviews are going on about needing to wire in capacitors and resistors to get the rpm working lol. Thanks buddy.
Doh I see you used the pulse generator now from other comments. My bike already has a tach output so I may try that first. I've yet to order the gauge, just trying to make the right decision for which gauge and this has helped a lot. Thanks.
Hi, I haven't tried and mine worked connecting to the pick up signal from the crank. Direct to coil might work but others say the voltage is too high. Perhaps confirm what you find....MY advice would be to try to avoid connecting directly to the coil unless nothing else has worked
Okay thanks buddy. Pretty sure I will go with the same gauge, though there are quite a few different styles out there. I've previously used Acewell and Koso and they are very good gauges but I just don't have the money for that expense these days. Thanks again.
Yep, know what you mean, if you persist with this one it does work really well and is great value too
BTW very cool project mate. I didn't even realise what you were building at first as I just clicked on the vid because I saw the gauge.
is that right - if you change the cylinder from '1' it won't go back? any idea how to reset it? thanks.
Hi Steve, unless they have changed the design there is no going back to 1.
hey, great video! do you know how to dissassembly the speedo? Because I tried loosening the 3 screws that it has on the back, but it seems to only loose the pcb, not the plastic in the front (I need to clean the glass from the inside :/ ) thanks!
Thanks. I haven't tried to pull it apart so I'm not sure. Its probably just as easy to buy another one given they are so cheap
Mine just keep reset to 2871 on the first menu when I turn off...
Hey sir, my speedometer won't work properly. When i turn the ignition off the speedometer will quickly cut-off as well and the hand of the tachometer will remain where it stay before i cut off the engine the tachometer hand will not go back to zero rpm.
Btw we have a same speedometer.
I hope you'll help me.
Hi Dave, checked your power wiring. Sounds like you might not have the constant power connected properly. this causes your problem. To fix this you need to be sure you have power from the battery connected as per my video.
Hi, great video . I got few questions about this if you don't mind? Does this come with 1-TRIP functionality? 2- how is the visibility of the display in sun daylight? 3-Does the the odometer mileage can be adjusted to match the old motorbike odometer mileage? 4-any issues about water ingressing inside the unit or housing? 5-how is the build quality in general ? many thanks
Thanks mate. Doesn't have a trip meter. Visibility is fine in dark and light. Mileage cannot be matched that I know of. Never had water on it, I suspect it would be fine as its sealed fairly well. Quality is great for the price, at the end of the day you get what you pay for. It was perfect for my mower project, I would buy something better if I needed one for a custom bike but would buy another for a daily bike anytime. Specially now that I've figured out the wiring.
@@Mezzmoengineering thanks a lot mate. Unfortunatly no trip meter for me is a deal breaker without this i will run out of petrol as i got no fuel gauge sensor in my bike. Are you absolutly sure this is not so sort of hidden functionality somehwere? Cheers
@@fixall336 Not hidden function. It has an odometer that can be reset via the mode settings, but no trip meter. Resetting odometer is via the rear button, whilst you could use that it would be a hassle and ultimately you won't know total distance traveled over time. Maybe you could add a level sensor to your tank and use the fuel gauge instead....
@@Mezzmoengineering I like your idea of adding a fuel gauge sensor in my tank. i would like to find a video tutorial on that as I guess I would need to cut my fuel tank.
@@fixall336 Yeah, thats what I did. Maybe look for a sender unit from a tank of similar size. You just need a hole in the tank with a flange to bolt to. Also check ebay for tanks that have senders or pics online so you can see how its set up....
How does the gear indicator work from 1 to 5, is it just grounding after neuteral, or is there something special in the gear box?
The gear signal of the tacho works by earthing each of the signal cables. There's a sensor in the engine gearbox, for each gear this sensor takes the specific gear to earth. All gears including neutral are from the gearbox sensor and go to the tacho
Thank you. But I'm not giving you any points for that, because nobody likes a clever Dick.
I only have a Neutral no gears but cant seem to get the Neutral to work. Am I missing something?
HI thanks for great set up video part 1 & 2 i have a Yamaha FZR 1000 4 cylinder 2 coils i have a problem with the Taco i have set it up on mode 3 & set to 2 coils with the yellow /black wire connected on to the grey wire from the crank pick up but it reads 8,000 rpm at idle . when i connect it to the black wire it reads 1,000 rpm at idle great but when i bring it up to 3,000 rpm it is very erratic and if i rev it to about 4,000 rpm it reads 12,000 rpm any help would be appreciated cheers
Hi Rick, you might need to try installing a resistor in that line as it might be getting some interference from the system. Google speedo idle pick ups as there's info around and ideas that have worked for others.
@@Mezzmoengineering Hi thanks for your reply. my Original taco wire went to the grey wire out of the ECU . at the moment i have only tried the taco yellow / black wire on to the crank pick up grey wire then taco reads 8,000 rpm at idle .
i have tried google but not found any information
i think your right a resistor might be the answer but not sure which one
thanks
Great video!! most usefull video i found! just one question i have, red cable goes directly to battery and black cable goes to +12v to key switch?so it knows when you turn it on?what if i put both cables to key switch so i dont run a cable from battery at the rear end to the speedometer that it is at the front?you think this could work?
Hi, sure that will work too. The only issue is that you will most likely find that the tacho needle will get stuck at whatever rpm its doing when power goes off. The background power ensures that it always goes back to zero
Classic Celicas and more i didnt thought of that...thank you man 💪
since you are familiar,i have only one issue left,i connected everything and it works great apart RPM...i own a xv250 that is 2 cylinder...i tried to take signal from the wires that go to ignition coil but it is not working at all,it does work if it takes signal from pickup coil but if i choose 2 cylinder in the menu it shows x4 what it should....if i choose 4 cylinder it shows x2 what it should.....any ideas?isnt it a little weird?if in 2 cylinder shows x4 logic would be in 4 cylinder to show x8 i suppose...
That is odd, sounds like you have the correct signal. Mine is set to 2 cylinder even though its 4 cylinder. Its because I have two coils instead of 4. Do you have one twin post coil? Did you try the other cables from the pick up point from the crank?
Classic Celicas and more i used the ground cable of the ignition coil but it couldnt work on its own...so i put a capacitor 100 nf and it worked
Isn't there a way to set the actual mileage of the vehicle on the odometer? You know, some people install these after some distance traveled...
Hmmm, good question. I know you can reset to zero but don't think you can select a figure
Ok, but how do you wire this? What is the "red" wire for explain as "memory"? Memory of what? And connect to "who"? Positive? Also I have 1 cylinder (wire as 1 cylinder) but I can't set that mode 3 in 1 cylinder. Only shows 2 or 4 options for cylinder. I personally take this speedometer as shitty one. Not recommend for shitty manual installation.
Hi, check part 1. I show exactly how its wired. Once you move mode 3 out of option 1 it cannot go back, you only then have 2 or 4. I dont know of any way to get it back to 1 cylinder hence why I suggest not changing it if you have a 1 cylinder. Sure, its not the best tacho around, I guess you just get what you pay for....
Classic Celicas and more. Ok, I have watched part 1 and I understand why my speedo running "funny" up to 4t rpm. That solid "red" I didn't connect to power In directly to "all the time". I try to do it and I see what happens. Thank you for explaining. PS. Chinese should pay you for this video :)
Thanks, yes I agree the Chinese owe me one for this video. They can send me a couple of spare tacho's if they see this...
how do you get the gear indicator working
Hey, could you please tell me that is the fuel sender unit is included in the box with this tachometer?
Hi, No you just get the tacho, you usually don't get anything else, not even a wiring diagram. You need to use an existing sender unit or buy one separately.
Not included, have to buy one
Installed this on my Suzuki vz400. can't get to the menu. pressing button for 3 seconds does nothing. power on holding the button also does nothing. Shows gear, neutral, revs all ok. but can't set perimeter of wheel cause can't enter the settings.
any help pls?
You need to have the button held on before turning the power on
@@Mezzmoengineering I bought my Suzuki used so I don't know what the previous owner did. from what I see, behind my speedometer there is the 25? pin adaptor but also there is a speedometer cable going down to the wheel. There aren't any magnets. I don't know how they did that but the speed displayed on my speedometer is almost half the real.
I want to buy this meter...please tell me from where can i buy this.?
or can you deliver this to me,???
... eBay, Amazon
Are you certain on option 3 there is no way back to 1 cylinder?
I don't know of a way to get back to option 1 once its changed. Someone may have a solution but at this point I don't know of any way of going back....
Really glad you posted this instruction video. Unfortunately I pushed a lot of buttons before I found this vid and now my option 3 is on 2-4 cilinder mode while I have a single. So strange that there is no way to get it back!.
I've just send a message to my seller but wonder if they know how and to what extend I'll be able to understand the chinglish reply.
Mine it only shows "CCC - - - " and nothing else, any help out there?
Mine also, and it only has three digits to adjust.could this be n inches rather than mm?
I accidentally clicked on to two cylinders and I only have 1 and I shit out of luck? Is there no factory reset or if I leave it un plugged for awhile will it reset to default
I think ur out of luck....I don't know of any way to get back to 1 cylinder
Damn that sucks I suppose I’m going to unhook the battery’ completely for a good amount of time and see if it resets
Its worth a try, please let me know if you get it back as others seem too have this issue as well
Will this work on my 2001 vulcan 1500?
hello, help I can't run the rpm counter, my motorcycle is a yamaha virago 750 83
Hi Carlos, I don't know your specific bike but check my video and try get the pick up signal from the crank. Not the positive of the coils. It should work....
Iv just bought one of these and mine is not picking up any mph iv both magnets glued to the disk . Does anyone no if the magnets have to be a certain way round
Yep they are polarity sensitive. Turn them around and try again
@@Mezzmoengineering thank u for the replie . I'll give that a go
Does it have an internal power supply to save the milage of the bikes battery is Disconnected?
Hi, there is no internal battery but milage does save when power is removed
Classic Celicas and more i don't know if you see this but mine every time i turn off my bike my miles reset to zero any idea why?
Check your wiring and video 1 for this. The solid red wire must have power all the time. Having said that I can completely unplug my tacho and back in again without losing any settings.
Classic Celicas and more ok thanks a lot. But still it's a shame that this product is your typical Chinese quality..
True, I guess you just get what you pay for....
it does not mark the fuel level, configure the dash and check the cable connections and it still does not mark me, could you guide me?
Your fuel sender might not have the right resistance. check the empty and full resistance, from memory mine was 8ohms to around 90ohms. This gauge cannot deal with all resistances but it has a couple of options. You might want to try installing a resistor on the cable feeding the speedo to change the input signal, try different resistors.
Do you remember what resistance you put and how many watts?
@@tomasignaciomatamalabaez8527 First you need to measure the empty and full resistance of your sender unit. In option 4, if you pick mode 2 it matches a resistance range of 10 -90ohms from memory. If you sender is higher then first try mode 3 and if that fails you need to add resistors to get the right range. for example, say your sender read 40ohms but you need it to be 90ohms then you add a 50 ohm resistor in series, you then need to minus that amount for the low reading too. Hope that makes sense.
Mezzmo Engineering really thanks im gonna do it
When I put my bike into gear the speedo turns off, please help me :\
Hi, did you check the wiring based on my video in part 1 and also the instructions are on the link above on my facebook page. You must have connected something wrong
hey man,
I can't get the tacho to work. I've got a 95 cbr900rr, 4 cylinder, two coils. I've attached the tacho wire to the pulse generator like you have, but just before the cdi box instead the back of the pickup. It is idling at 6,000rpm and doesn't behave appropriately when revved :-(
HELP ME!
Hmmm, check you have mode 3 set to 2. Also, perhaps you connected to the wrong cable. I don't know your engine but there is most likely 4 wires from the pulse generator, try changing the cable and see if it works properly. If you have 4 cylinders with 2 coils and mode 3 set to 2 then the problem must be that you connected to the wrong cable....
Sweet as, I'll give it a go. Thanks mate
OK, good luck with it
So, I've checked everything, there's only two wires from the pulse generator, one works, one doesn't. However it is shit. It jumps around like mad, I've set it to 2 cylinders from 4 and it now idles at 10k and still bounces around erratically :(. The original tacho wire (for the original gauge) doesn't give a signal at all either. I think maybe I got a broken gauge!
I think your bike has an ignition control box which should already have a wire to feed the tacho. Have you connected to that wire?
www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/cbr900rr-ignition-system-circuit.png
Hi, are you still using this tachometer?
Sure, still working great
Do you know how to set up my old mileage?
Sorry, not sure if you can do that
and where does the RPM wire connect?
Hi, Check the part 1 video. It connects to the signal from the crank. Not from the coils directly.
Can't seem to get neutral to work, anyone have a solution?
Hi, Neutral is just earth via your gear selector. First just earth the neutral cable from the tacho so you know which wire it is and then connect it to the neutral signal from your gear selector. Very easy as long as you have a neutral signal from your engine
Thanks for the help, any chance you can put those instructions back up? They are no longer on Facebook
I'll have to find the info again, not sure why face book would have removed them
Instructive video, congrats ..
But...
My STUPID repairman put the 2 magnets ON to the OTHER TOP and PASTED it..
Mileage counter measures 1/2 speed.. When i'm 50 km. it reading 25 km.
is the magnets be the cause of this?? i choose 1 magnets but it not solve..
if i do in the first part of menu my tire size x2, is it solve ??
Also my bike 1 cylinder but they choose 2..
Can i reset this ?? or what is the effect of it ??
And I don't have gasoline buoy on my bike.. Does the fuel gauge works even so ??
Hi, I think you should fit the 2 magnets separately and 180 degrees from each other to fix the fault. Otherwise you could double the circumference if its still less than 2999mm.
As I mention in the video, if you have 1 cylinder you do not mess with mode 3, once it goes out of 1 cylinder then it cannot go back....
If you dont have a fuel gauge just earth the sensor cable and the gauge will show full.
I think you can use option 1 with 1 cylinder.. 2 strokes.... For 4 strokes 1 cylinder, you may need option 2
Alguien me lo explica en español
En el seting 1 se pone la circunferencia de la CUBIERTA del eje en que esta puesto el sensor de velocidad. En El setting 2, se pone la cantidad de IMANES que activan el sensor de velocidad por vuelta, El seting 3 Se supone que es el numero de DISPAROS de corriente por ciclo de 360 grados (la mitad para motores de 4 tiempos...). Dicen que si lo moves del numero 1, no podes volver a 1, asi que dejalo en 1, y si la cantidad de RPM es la mitad de lo que en realidad es, lo podes subir a 2, y asi, en caso que tengas 4 cilindros . El setting 4 son posibles valores de resistencias de distintos modelos de medidor de COMBUSTIBLE. Llena el tanque, y cambia numeros hasta que te marque lleno (cuidado que la senal del medidor puede estar invertida.. y tendras que hacer algo al respecto). El setting 5 es para hacer reseteo al instrumento, y muestra la cantidad de veces que se ha hecho. Suerte
just did mine, no matter what I do, the rpm just won't work, I tested the rpm signal with a LED light, it blinks right, the fuel gauge also wont work no matter what. all others lights work. I guess I got a bad unit.
Check you have selected the current resistance range for your fuel tank. I took the pick up signal for the tacho from the crank trigger. Don't connect direct to the coil as its likely to damage the unit.
@@Mezzmoengineering Yes I've used the pickup signal too, the old speedo on the bike also used that signal. I shorted the fuel signal to ground, tried mode 2 and 3, no bar displayed. pretty sure this one I got is bad, or not sure how I damaged it? I just bought another unit
@@rc3443 OK, its not expensive so you might have got a bad one as you say
Do you have Facebook or instagram? I need some help with this motorcycle gauge
Hi Chris, I have face book. Dont use it much but its Classic Celicas and more. Or just ask here or on my email.
@@Mezzmoengineering I found you on Facebook and left you a message. Should we use that for contact or just use youtube?
Hi mate, probably best to just ask on youtube or my email mezzmo@iinet.net.au
@@Mezzmoengineering I was gonna ask you some information about the motorcycle gauge' I'm linking it to my Celica. I think I figured it out only thing left is to figure out the gas level and calibrate the system from the button in the back.
@@Sargon77757 It could work. Just follow the video instructions. I don't know the resistance of the celicas fuel sender but if its wrong you could mess with other resistors to get it to the right range. Don't know anyone thats done it though
Chinglishhhh haahaahaahahaaaaaaaaaa, I need it in spanish right now, my sportster speedometer decided not to work anymore. I got mine yesterday. Plugs are the same but the wires color code changed...
that sounds typical of the chinese. I think they just copy things without really knowing how it works...