That's an actual failure by the route setters. As in - they failed their job. Hard routes that few manage to top or even get a zone are fine (not too often) but a route than NO ONE even manages to get a zone? That shouldn't have happened.
I appreciate the editing. Also, the thing about bouldering that makes it fun to watch is that when a climber succeeds in making what seems to be a difficult transition; and because of this, I enjoyed watching Ritsu more.
they swap to that zoomed in face/hand cam way too much, that should be used sparingly i wanna see the whole body position and legs. rarely is only just one part important
@@gezzapk im fine with that but it need to be done in a replay or another smaller frame. The whole climber and wall should be in view during an attempt, no exceptions. After they fall do whatever editing tricks you want on the replay
Yeah, such a shame for him. First boulder he was doing really well and just barely fell short. Third boulder was a huge display of why height matters in climbing and why being short makes it completely unfair. He made a terrific job overcoming the first difficulty that others had no issue with because they were taller only to come short (literally) at the top hold. Two other climbers after him did top exactly the same way with the sole difference being them being slightly taller. Ai Mori has the same problem - she's often doing really well but gets completely hindered by her height. :(
What is so good about this sport is that you cannot hear any boos in the crowd. They just support everyone and happy for the competitors. Unlike other sports where it has to be political, or they have to talk down the opposing sides.
Hi there! The IFSC retransmit them, but they are georestricted. I always try my best to bring this versions as soon as possible to the climbing community 😁
Hey there! I manage to get the semifinal from the Olympics website. Thanks to @felixfelixis2213 Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/PkK4Ppgvj2k/v-deo.htmlsi=zEzzadrn0VQGxELw Enjoy :))
Setters and judges all really failed on this one. Boulder 2 in particular. But the number of climbers that had to be stopped on Boulder 4, even though the announcers had seen the 'starting position' multiple times and were still confused on what everyone was doing wrong makes me wonder what the idea was there too.
@@thepersonaltvMagnus and Emil have videos on their mental pertaining to their own weight when competing, and how it wasn't healthy. It's a sport where body weight matters a ton so hopefully people don't go too far and hurt themselves.
The setting of the second boulder was just atrocious. And what the hell is the judges problem on the fourth one? This event just seemed very poorly run. And please for the love of god don't show a replay when an athlete is on their last top attempt with 20 seconds remaining, what the hell.
what a shit set on the 2nd boulder.. did anyone even try that thing like I feel the setter or someone working with them should at least be able to link between zone segments of a climb to consider it fit for the comp. If you just did move to move i'm sure it's fine but that campus crimp takes a huge toll on your ability to make the subsequent moves to the point it was clearly impossible unless you got lucky on the opening and then flashed it.. and were toby or sorato
Not only do the cameramen/coverage often show us useless close ups while missing the action but now they also started showing replays... while we're missing more action! Terrible.
I'm not a climber, but it seems like the M2 and M4 boulders are poorly designed? No one even got a zone on M2, and M4 relies on the gotcha in the starting hold position to artificially increase the athletes' attempt number.
I mean, if the rules are clear about volumes not being "part of the wall" in that you can't use them unless they are themselves the starting holds while establishing, then it's up to the climber to know these specific rules and follow them to the letter. This is part of the competition imo and a skill in of itself, which you can see experienced competition climbers usually do much better at. So I don't really agree on M4 being poorly designed, you can see that once the climbers are notified about it they have no problem starting it correctly, so they really were using the volumes as aid to get established on the start before that.
The last movement of the last boulder penalized the shortest climbers. As a result, Sorato didn't make it, in spite of being clearly the best climber, just because he was not tall enough.😢 Not a good job by the route setters.
Nah. Sorato clearly could have done that move. He could almost reach it statically. For some reason he just got stuck with some bad beta. It's happens!
I think it was more of a coincidence that the shorter guys didn't get it. If Sorato did what Sohta or Meichi did for the final move he would gotten it, he's capable of getting that little bit more dynamicness compared to them. He just didn't commit to the right beta in the moment.
Clearly Sorato could have done that. He's got more than enough power and skill for that. I bet the 2nd last hold was just not bad enough for him to give up the idea of doing it statically. That's so unfortunate. Like fallen into a trap.
So, they set this move (bit easier tho, less overhanging and a juggy final hold instead of crimp) in my gym last week and I was trying to do the boulder and noticed how easy it was for climbers above 1.80m to do it statically, but for me this was impossible so I had to jump into the shoulder press into human flag. The community graded the boulder a full grade below the actual difficulty (imo) because the only people completing it were super tall climbers who could cheat this crux move entirely. A lot of smaller climbers just gave up on the boulder assuming "it's just for tall climbers". This is just wrong as I could do it but the crux move was forced for me, similar to how M4 here is fine for small climbers, they're just forced into jumping into the human flag move to get it. I bet this move was actually objectively harder for Meichi due to him being tall and that final move being set for a smaller box than his.
Setters definitely overcooked the second boulder
fr, i dont know what the fuck they were thinking. like come on guys get back to reality
Setters need to upload a video of them sending that one
Love the edited format! No wasted time watching them scrub the holds, or look at their fingers. Thank you!
Man my palms are extremely sweaty by just watching this
Crazy that no one was able to zone the second one!
Yea, such a shame. They should have move the zone to the big hold in the middle
That's an actual failure by the route setters. As in - they failed their job. Hard routes that few manage to top or even get a zone are fine (not too often) but a route than NO ONE even manages to get a zone? That shouldn't have happened.
@@nps1024 yeah i would love to know who/why it was set this way, sad route to see when no one gets a zone
@@spacevadr10 last hold (before zone) was impossible to hold, i wonder what they thought the beta was
why are u giving spoilers 😢
I enjoy these edited cups. Its way easier to watch with my kids
Innsbruck audience is awesome!😃
I am floored by the strength and endurance of these young climbers. Incredible to watch
30:15 wtf
Even though it’s 3 in the morning and I’m screaming at a pre recorded video
Craaaaazy
Heartiest Congratulations Sorata!❤
Thanks for the uploads Donkey, really appreciate them ❤
Feel so bad for Toby on the last climb as he was the closest on boulder 2 and flashed boulder 3. Would have loved to see him podium.
sorato was closest on boulder 2
He's also the only one who couldn't get a zone on the last one, so seems fair to me
well he won the olympics lol
watching these is really helping my bouldering technique!
The editing here was great, it made for a wonderful watching experience.
Crazy choke by sorato
"finger-ly, simpy bad" lmaooo
bruh xd
My hands got sweaty from watching this. Insane skills!
Thanks for putting these videos out, you're the best!
These were some of the coolest boulders I’ve seen in a comp. Wish the second had been a bit easier so we could’ve seen the top
I appreciate the editing. Also, the thing about bouldering that makes it fun to watch is that when a climber succeeds in making what seems to be a difficult transition; and because of this, I enjoyed watching Ritsu more.
Wow the last boulder changed everything, I am so sad for Toby and Sorato.
meichi with the john cena walkout
So nice to have these Videos thanks a los donky
I was so excited
4/6 Japanese is kinda crazy
Not exactly unusual, they're very strong in Bouldering
Theryre the best
sağol bro, güzel yayın
Japan team are too strong. I admire you.
they swap to that zoomed in face/hand cam way too much, that should be used sparingly i wanna see the whole body position and legs. rarely is only just one part important
They want the audience to grimace when they close up on them grabbing the small crimps
@@gezzapk im fine with that but it need to be done in a replay or another smaller frame. The whole climber and wall should be in view during an attempt, no exceptions. After they fall do whatever editing tricks you want on the replay
Yeah that facecam is a crime. Image in football doing the same facecam while shooting the ball 😂
3 Japaneses on the podium!
Thanks for video
Wow 😮
Watching these guys climb then going to my local gym and failing on my V6 projects over and over hurts 😭😂
I haven't seen a better video
Feels bad for ritsu, reached the top on 3 boulders
Yeah, such a shame for him. First boulder he was doing really well and just barely fell short. Third boulder was a huge display of why height matters in climbing and why being short makes it completely unfair. He made a terrific job overcoming the first difficulty that others had no issue with because they were taller only to come short (literally) at the top hold. Two other climbers after him did top exactly the same way with the sole difference being them being slightly taller. Ai Mori has the same problem - she's often doing really well but gets completely hindered by her height. :(
Nihonjin podium!
buena compe
Ritsu's falls are so entertaining 😂
What is so good about this sport is that you cannot hear any boos in the crowd. They just support everyone and happy for the competitors. Unlike other sports where it has to be political, or they have to talk down the opposing sides.
out of curiosity, where can i watch these live? Is there a website or something?
Hi there! The IFSC retransmit them, but they are georestricted. I always try my best to bring this versions as soon as possible to the climbing community 😁
Men's finals! Thank you for this video Donkey!
Who is the co-host on this one?
Benjamin Vargas, a Chilean climber
we love you Donkey 💕 thanks for this and aguante Pichón ctm
Any chaance for boulder semis?
28:30 that is wuthering waves music
Think the title is wrong on this one Donkey ❤
Thanks so much! I just changed it 😁😁
@@DonkeyClimbMedia Thanks for what you do!😊
When youre not considering the channels name this sounds kinda funny haha
gracias 🐖🐖🐖
hey donkey love the videos! I was wondering if you were able to get the lead semifinals before they took them down?
I can try to get the semifinals for you. As soon as I get it, I will send you the link 😁
I think they already took it down, unfortunately. I will bring you the Lead Finals tonight :))
@@DonkeyClimbMediareplays are available on the olympics website😁
Hey there! I manage to get the semifinal from the Olympics website. Thanks to @felixfelixis2213
Here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/PkK4Ppgvj2k/v-deo.htmlsi=zEzzadrn0VQGxELw
Enjoy :))
I forgot to say that as usual, you can find the timestamps in the description box :D
🗽 Boulder 2 ???? 🤔🤨
.
Was second boulder even tested first?
Does anyonr know why Schalck hasn't been on stage for quite some time
Was trying to qualify for Olympics but didn’t make it
Daija Fort
Who is the commentator on this one? I can't find the info anywhere
Co-commentator is Benjamin Vargas, a climber from Chile.
@@edgykay Thank you so much!
Setters and judges all really failed on this one. Boulder 2 in particular. But the number of climbers that had to be stopped on Boulder 4, even though the announcers had seen the 'starting position' multiple times and were still confused on what everyone was doing wrong makes me wonder what the idea was there too.
A triple Japanese podium WTF!
Ma allo start dell'M4 i giudici cosa stavano guardando? Hanno sbagliato molte volte...
Idella Trace
john cena walkout is supreme
Emmerich Oval
Aguante pichón comentarista
Japan wow
grande pichón
Dude toby is skinnier and sknnier from comp to comp lol
I know!! I'm worried about it. Atlethes are getting super skinny
@@thepersonaltvMagnus and Emil have videos on their mental pertaining to their own weight when competing, and how it wasn't healthy.
It's a sport where body weight matters a ton so hopefully people don't go too far and hurt themselves.
my fingers hurt
Rempel Hollow
Kris Roads
Ernser Garden
Jones Michelle Jackson Paul Perez Richard
Franco Trace
why are the Japanese so dominant?
The setting of the second boulder was just atrocious. And what the hell is the judges problem on the fourth one? This event just seemed very poorly run. And please for the love of god don't show a replay when an athlete is on their last top attempt with 20 seconds remaining, what the hell.
what a shit set on the 2nd boulder.. did anyone even try that thing like I feel the setter or someone working with them should at least be able to link between zone segments of a climb to consider it fit for the comp. If you just did move to move i'm sure it's fine but that campus crimp takes a huge toll on your ability to make the subsequent moves to the point it was clearly impossible unless you got lucky on the opening and then flashed it.. and were toby or sorato
Just out of curiosity. Is it allowed to edit ifsc worldcup and re upload? I am very grateful for your video but I wonder if it is allowed.
Not only do the cameramen/coverage often show us useless close ups while missing the action but now they also started showing replays... while we're missing more action! Terrible.
2nd climb is def set for taller people and even then it looks like hell, bad set
HEY! Do it correctly, please stop mispronouncing it: it's "Kah-WOOTZ-kah", not Kah-LOOCH-kah :)
I'm not a climber, but it seems like the M2 and M4 boulders are poorly designed? No one even got a zone on M2, and M4 relies on the gotcha in the starting hold position to artificially increase the athletes' attempt number.
M4 is imo good, M2 is indeed overcooked
I mean, if the rules are clear about volumes not being "part of the wall" in that you can't use them unless they are themselves the starting holds while establishing, then it's up to the climber to know these specific rules and follow them to the letter. This is part of the competition imo and a skill in of itself, which you can see experienced competition climbers usually do much better at. So I don't really agree on M4 being poorly designed, you can see that once the climbers are notified about it they have no problem starting it correctly, so they really were using the volumes as aid to get established on the start before that.
The last movement of the last boulder penalized the shortest climbers. As a result, Sorato didn't make it, in spite of being clearly the best climber, just because he was not tall enough.😢 Not a good job by the route setters.
Nah. Sorato clearly could have done that move. He could almost reach it statically. For some reason he just got stuck with some bad beta. It's happens!
I think it was more of a coincidence that the shorter guys didn't get it. If Sorato did what Sohta or Meichi did for the final move he would gotten it, he's capable of getting that little bit more dynamicness compared to them. He just didn't commit to the right beta in the moment.
Clearly Sorato could have done that. He's got more than enough power and skill for that. I bet the 2nd last hold was just not bad enough for him to give up the idea of doing it statically. That's so unfortunate. Like fallen into a trap.
So, they set this move (bit easier tho, less overhanging and a juggy final hold instead of crimp) in my gym last week and I was trying to do the boulder and noticed how easy it was for climbers above 1.80m to do it statically, but for me this was impossible so I had to jump into the shoulder press into human flag. The community graded the boulder a full grade below the actual difficulty (imo) because the only people completing it were super tall climbers who could cheat this crux move entirely. A lot of smaller climbers just gave up on the boulder assuming "it's just for tall climbers". This is just wrong as I could do it but the crux move was forced for me, similar to how M4 here is fine for small climbers, they're just forced into jumping into the human flag move to get it. I bet this move was actually objectively harder for Meichi due to him being tall and that final move being set for a smaller box than his.
I know it is pride month but why “women”😂?
Hahahaha! Sorry, it slipped my mind 🤪
Drecksmusik