As a new 500c/m owner, I very much need to explore the lenses most useful and available for the system. This is a great start! I'll look for you online - thank you!
HI Jonathan, I need some help. I recently got the Hasselblad 500 CM with A12 Back. I have advanced the body and lens and clocked * it too. The back has the film inserted, however, the half moon on the left side of the back still shows 70% RED 30% orange, despite the film in it. On the right of the back, it shows WHITE (even on the body) and it shows (FRAME (1) )..and it won't let me wound further, since it's already frame (1) and hasn't been shot. I take off the dark slide and click the shutter, and nothing happens. the shutter's button goes in all the way and doesn't affect the mirror or the shutter. However if I take the back off and then try clicking the shutter button it works perfectly fine and then I can clock the body and reshoot. no problem, But, when the back is attached, nothing works. WAtched all videos possible, doing everything right but no luck, tried google too and still no luck. I have tried taking the back off, and then the shutter fires and it's all good. Until I put the A12 back on. It just won't fire, (yes I did advance the body ). I can see through the focusing screen, can see what's in front of the lens and the film back has a solid white matching the body too.I tried to remove the back and when I fire, yes I see that metal arm coming out, (which ideally goes into the back ) so that is working fine. and the back, I see when I remove the slide, the metal piece in that hole. moves back to ideally let the metal piece from the body come through. So I can confirm nothing is blocking or stuck but still trying to figure out why it is not shooting. Please help.
Jonathan, this video is very informational and helpful. I really can't thank you enough for putting out consistently informative and great video content, especially in regard to the Hasselblad family. Much love from Singapore, subbed! Please keep up the great work!!
I have a 80mm CB lens that came with a 2003 500 cm camera. Where does that fit in? The aperture and focus rings appear to be rubberized and it is a T* lens that uses 60mm bayonet filters. Thanks Herb
The CB and later C lenses, both with bay 60 fronts, are stripped down versions of the CF/CFE lenses. They're not designated 'F' as they don't have the ability to lock open the shutter when using with 2000 series cameras. Not a big issue for the vast majority of users.
Thank you for a comprehensive review. Just as a matter of fact - I've never had a problem with any CF lens. However, I am currently having to pay for a CLA on a fairly newish Planar 100/3.5 CFi with a very stiff focusing ring.
Hasselblad lenses are as reliable as you’ll get, especially if regularly serviced. If you speak to experienced Hasselblad repairers they’ll tell you the earlier lenses are better made than the later lenses. But it’s important to remember there are many other factors, such as level of use and handing in use, that impact reliability to a few greater extent. Good luck with your 100mm CFi - I suspect it’ll be as good as new after a service.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you for your response. I was informed that Hasselblad in the US only has one technician! So, adding insult to injury, so to speak, it may be summer before I see my lens again! As far as photography goes, I am an "enthusiast." I take the utmost care of my gear, and do treat it properly. I am also a retiree, so fortunately, I do have a certain amount of "disposable" income to finance my enthusiasm! PS - Always a pleasure watching your very informative videos.
@mhc2b The best and most experienced Hasselblad repairers are often those who’ve left Hasselblad and set up on their own. We have a few in the UK so I expect there are many more in the US. It’s worth asking around.
Can I ask if these lenses have different focus throws? One thing I wished for when I had my CT* lenses was a shorter focus throw. Are these any different in the newer lenses?
Hi Jonathan, thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge about Hasselblad, I learned so much from you, I would like to ask you which is the differences between Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 50mm F/4 Cfi VS Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 50mm F/4 CF FLE?
Hi Jonathan, If only I had watched your videos before buying........... I am an experienced 35mm photographer and decided to get into medium format by buying a second hand Hasselblad 500c/m and 80mm f2.8 lens. Camera and lens have arrived and are in first class condition as described by the seller. I have done a bit of research and it looks like I have been sent a Carl Zeiss T* Planar 80mm f 2.8 FE model. It says F on the lens barrel and has four gold contacts inside and two blue lines on the barrel. I now know (after much googling) this won't work with my 500 C/M and is suitable for the 200 (and 2000 ?) cameras. Clearly the seller had no idea as he recommended this as the best choice of lens. Question - is this lens worth more than an 80mm CF lens ? I could sell this and buy a CF or just return it to the seller.
Hello Jonathan, I am looking for a 503 CW with a few lenses. I was hoping to go searching around Tokyo this coming November, when I get to Japan. Can we make special requests for you to try and source something like this for me? Thanks
The C lenses have a self timer as well as the clever dof indicators and are all metal. They have a superior build quality with etched numbers and surface treatment along with the same optical quality. The newer lenses are cheaper but more expensive to buy- versions of the c- lenses
Thanks for your input. Yes, the older lenses were engineered to a higher standard and I'd never recommend swapping a good C lens for a later CF. That said, the CF lenses are generally more dependable but only because they are newer. Some spares for C lenses are hard to find so repair can be difficult.
Great video. Do the CFE, CFI lenses have better optics than the CF lens? Or is it bout the same. Is the 60mm lens equivalent to a 35mm lens in the 35 world?
Generally speaking they're optically the same (some later lenses have floating element systems). And yes the 60mm is a moderate wide-angle, similar to the 35mm although a direct comparison is difficult.
Yes, that rumour was bouncing around when the newer Hasselblad lenses were introduced. We tested back in the 90s and could see no difference whatsoever. It’s always worth doing some tests yourself though.
It’s understandably confusing but the ZV lenses were not made or sold by Hasselblad. They were made and marketed directly by Zeiss in a Hasselblad mount (in the same way Zeiss makes Nikon/Sony/Fuji-fit lenses today). They are excellent - the 120mm in particular has a fantastic reputation.
The newer style C and CB lenses are a stripped down version of the CF lens. Hasselblad only manufactured for a few years and they weren’t popular but definitely worth buying if you can find one in decent condition.
You are wrong !!! The shutter in the 200/2000-series Haseblad Cameras are VERY reliable, it was some stupid photographers thumbs that destroyed the shutter, because they was used to the 500-series shutter. I had a Hasselblad 2000 FC for any years, no troubles what so ever ! I started with the 500 C/M, but for macro and long tele Lens work the upper of the images was always darken because of the short mirror. The biggest benefit with the 200/2000-series Hasselblad Cameras are that you both can use Lenses with or without built-in shutter, I can recommend the Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8, the Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, the Zeiss Tele-Tessar 350mm 4.0, the Zeiss Mutar 2x and the Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0 C Lenses started in 1957 along the 500C ! YOU really NEED to know a LOT more about Hasselblad !!! At 2:01 I cannot watch any more of this, get educated man. www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HS/HSTable.aspx www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWLds.aspx
So your experience v-a-v reliability is based on a sample size of one? I have been buying and selling these cameras for decades. That represents a sample size of thousands so I’m qualified to make a judgement about reliability. The 200 series cameras are better than the 2000 series cameras. The 500 series cameras are better still by quite a margin. 500 series cameras can usually be fixed. Many spares for 200 and 2000 series cameras are no longer available. Unless you want the faster F lenses I’d recommend the 500 series cameras all day long. Happy for you to disagree but let’s keep things civilised. Is that really too much to ask?
@@WorldwideCameraExchange I have been a long time Hasselblad user and know many Hasselblad user, I also know a qualified guy who repairs Hasselblad, he was educated at the old Hasselblad factory in Göteborg, Sweden. I have also had a long time direct contact to the Hasselblad factory in Göteborg, Sweden in the 1980´s and the 1990´s where I arranged guided tours for photographers at the Hasselblad factory, so I know something about Hasselblad ! In the video, you do not sound as you know a lot about Hasselblad.
As a new 500c/m owner, I very much need to explore the lenses most useful and available for the system. This is a great start! I'll look for you online - thank you!
Thanks - glad it was useful.
HI Jonathan, I need some help.
I recently got the Hasselblad 500 CM with A12 Back.
I have advanced the body and lens and clocked * it too.
The back has the film inserted, however, the half moon on the left side of the back still shows 70% RED 30% orange, despite the film in it.
On the right of the back, it shows WHITE (even on the body) and it shows (FRAME (1) )..and it won't let me wound further, since it's already frame (1) and hasn't been shot.
I take off the dark slide and click the shutter, and nothing happens. the shutter's button goes in all the way and doesn't affect the mirror or the shutter.
However if I take the back off and then try clicking the shutter button it works perfectly fine and then I can clock the body and reshoot. no problem,
But, when the back is attached, nothing works.
WAtched all videos possible, doing everything right but no luck, tried google too and still no luck.
I have tried taking the back off, and then the shutter fires and it's all good.
Until I put the A12 back on. It just won't fire, (yes I did advance the body ).
I can see through the focusing screen, can see what's in front of the lens and the film back has a solid white matching the body too.I tried to remove the back and when I fire, yes I see that metal arm coming out, (which ideally goes into the back ) so that is working fine.
and the back, I see when I remove the slide, the metal piece in that hole. moves back to ideally let the metal piece from the body come through.
So I can confirm nothing is blocking or stuck but still trying to figure out why it is not shooting.
Please help.
It sounds like the back interlock is sticking. The back probably needs servicing.
Jonathan, this video is very informational and helpful. I really can't thank you enough for putting out consistently informative and great video content, especially in regard to the Hasselblad family. Much love from Singapore, subbed! Please keep up the great work!!
Thank you. Glad it’s useful.
Thank you Jonathan. Very useful and informative. Cheers.
Thanks. Glad it was useful.
I have a 80mm CB lens that came with a 2003 500 cm camera. Where does that fit in? The aperture and focus rings appear to be rubberized and it is a T* lens that uses 60mm bayonet filters.
Thanks
Herb
The CB and later C lenses, both with bay 60 fronts, are stripped down versions of the CF/CFE lenses. They're not designated 'F' as they don't have the ability to lock open the shutter when using with 2000 series cameras. Not a big issue for the vast majority of users.
Thank you for a comprehensive review. Just as a matter of fact - I've never had a problem with any CF lens. However, I am currently having to pay for a CLA on a fairly newish Planar 100/3.5 CFi with a very stiff focusing ring.
Hasselblad lenses are as reliable as you’ll get, especially if regularly serviced. If you speak to experienced Hasselblad repairers they’ll tell you the earlier lenses are better made than the later lenses. But it’s important to remember there are many other factors, such as level of use and handing in use, that impact reliability to a few greater extent. Good luck with your 100mm CFi - I suspect it’ll be as good as new after a service.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thank you for your response. I was informed that Hasselblad in the US only has one technician! So, adding insult to injury, so to speak, it may be summer before I see my lens again!
As far as photography goes, I am an "enthusiast." I take the utmost care of my gear, and do treat it properly. I am also a retiree, so fortunately, I do have a certain amount of "disposable" income to finance my enthusiasm!
PS - Always a pleasure watching your very informative videos.
@mhc2b The best and most experienced Hasselblad repairers are often those who’ve left Hasselblad and set up on their own. We have a few in the UK so I expect there are many more in the US. It’s worth asking around.
Can I ask if these lenses have different focus throws? One thing I wished for when I had my CT* lenses was a shorter focus throw. Are these any different in the newer lenses?
It varies from lens to lens. None have short throws.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Ah ok, good to know, thanks!
Hi Jonathan, thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge about Hasselblad, I learned so much from you, I would like to ask you which is the differences between Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 50mm F/4 Cfi VS Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 50mm F/4 CF FLE?
The CFi is the newer restyled version. There’s no difference in optical performance.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thank you so much...
Happy to help
Great video, subscribed!
Thanks - appreciated
Hi Jonathan,
If only I had watched your videos before buying...........
I am an experienced 35mm photographer and decided to get into medium format by buying a second hand Hasselblad 500c/m and 80mm f2.8 lens.
Camera and lens have arrived and are in first class condition as described by the seller.
I have done a bit of research and it looks like I have been sent a Carl Zeiss T* Planar 80mm f 2.8 FE model. It says F on the lens barrel and has four gold contacts inside and two blue lines on the barrel.
I now know (after much googling) this won't work with my 500 C/M and is suitable for the 200 (and 2000 ?) cameras.
Clearly the seller had no idea as he recommended this as the best choice of lens.
Question - is this lens worth more than an 80mm CF lens ? I could sell this and buy a CF or just return it to the seller.
The F type lenses are generally worth less than the CF lenses. I’d return the lens for a refund and find a CF instead.
Hi dear Jinathan
many thanks for your explanations.
how can I use a V mount zeiss 150mm f4 on H3D body? what lens adapter can I use?
Yes, no issues with the CF adaptor.
Hello Jonathan,
I am looking for a 503 CW with a few lenses. I was hoping to go searching around Tokyo this coming November, when I get to Japan.
Can we make special requests for you to try and source something like this for me?
Thanks
Let us have a list of what you need and we can contact you when it becomes available.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Seeking 50mm & 80mm for 503CX
The C lenses have a self timer as well as the clever dof indicators and are all metal. They have a superior build quality with etched numbers and surface treatment along with the same optical quality. The newer lenses are cheaper but more expensive to buy- versions of the c- lenses
Thanks for your input. Yes, the older lenses were engineered to a higher standard and I'd never recommend swapping a good C lens for a later CF. That said, the CF lenses are generally more dependable but only because they are newer. Some spares for C lenses are hard to find so repair can be difficult.
Great video. Do the CFE, CFI lenses have better optics than the CF lens? Or is it bout the same. Is the 60mm lens equivalent to a 35mm lens in the 35 world?
Generally speaking they're optically the same (some later lenses have floating element systems). And yes the 60mm is a moderate wide-angle, similar to the 35mm although a direct comparison is difficult.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks! That clears up a lot. Great informative videos. Just bought a 501cm.
So your videos are awesome
I heard CFI/CFE has better contrast and color rendering when shooting color film?
Yes, that rumour was bouncing around when the newer Hasselblad lenses were introduced. We tested back in the 90s and could see no difference whatsoever. It’s always worth doing some tests yourself though.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks sir
Hasselblad Carl Zeiss Makro-Planar T* 120mm F/4 ZV Lens can you explain this zv designation, I didn't hear you mention it in your excellent video
It’s understandably confusing but the ZV lenses were not made or sold by Hasselblad. They were made and marketed directly by Zeiss in a Hasselblad mount (in the same way Zeiss makes Nikon/Sony/Fuji-fit lenses today). They are excellent - the 120mm in particular has a fantastic reputation.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange it’s very kind to reply! Thank yoi
Always happy to help
What about the Planar 80 mm CB?
The newer style C and CB lenses are a stripped down version of the CF lens. Hasselblad only manufactured for a few years and they weren’t popular but definitely worth buying if you can find one in decent condition.
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Thanks. I've just bought one so hope it's all right. :-)
Grazie!
Glad it was useful
hot
You are wrong !!! The shutter in the 200/2000-series Haseblad Cameras are VERY reliable, it was some stupid photographers thumbs that destroyed the shutter, because they was used to the 500-series shutter. I had a Hasselblad 2000 FC for any years, no troubles what so ever ! I started with the 500 C/M, but for macro and long tele Lens work the upper of the images was always darken because of the short mirror. The biggest benefit with the 200/2000-series Hasselblad Cameras are that you both can use Lenses with or without built-in shutter, I can recommend the Zeiss Distagon 50mm 2.8, the Zeiss Planar 110mm 2.0, the Zeiss Tele-Tessar 350mm 4.0, the Zeiss Mutar 2x and the Zeiss Macro Planar 120mm 4.0
C Lenses started in 1957 along the 500C ! YOU really NEED to know a LOT more about Hasselblad !!! At 2:01 I cannot watch any more of this, get educated man.
www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HS/HSTable.aspx
www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWLds.aspx
So your experience v-a-v reliability is based on a sample size of one? I have been buying and selling these cameras for decades. That represents a sample size of thousands so I’m qualified to make a judgement about reliability. The 200 series cameras are better than the 2000 series cameras. The 500 series cameras are better still by quite a margin. 500 series cameras can usually be fixed. Many spares for 200 and 2000 series cameras are no longer available. Unless you want the faster F lenses I’d recommend the 500 series cameras all day long. Happy for you to disagree but let’s keep things civilised. Is that really too much to ask?
@@WorldwideCameraExchange I have been a long time Hasselblad user and know many Hasselblad user, I also know a qualified guy who repairs Hasselblad, he was educated at the old Hasselblad factory in Göteborg, Sweden. I have also had a long time direct contact to the Hasselblad factory in Göteborg, Sweden in the 1980´s and the 1990´s where I arranged guided tours for photographers at the Hasselblad factory, so I know something about Hasselblad ! In the video, you do not sound as you know a lot about Hasselblad.
Very happy to let my subscribers make that judgement. Thank you for commenting.