Tips & Tricks for Oil Washes - HC 447
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 тра 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through multiple ways to use Oil washes (both how to make them and tips for how to get them right for different effects). Hope you enjoy!
#warhammer #miniaturepainting
Game Envy Lucent Light: gameenvy.net/?ref=vinceventur...
COUPON CODE: vinceventurella (10% off)
Hobby Supplies
Gamsol White Spirits (Amazon): amzn.to/4a0UVOW
Makeup Sponges (Larger): amzn.to/4dj29R6
Makeup Sponges (Detail): amzn.to/49UzPlk
Winton Oil Paints: amzn.to/3wb4UDv
Winsor & Newton Brush (Amazon): amzn.to/495WKel
Synthetic Brush Set (Amazon): amzn.to/3Q4np2u
Plastic Well Palette (Amazon): amzn.to/491FOFA
Multi-Pack Well Palette (Amazon): amzn.to/40cD04z
Exacto Blade Pack (Amazon): amzn.to/3Qduk9x
Rubber Cutting Mat (Amazon): amzn.to/47blpMP
My Games (w/Uncle Adam)
Snarl Zine: www.snarlingbadger.com/snarl
Majestic 13 Game: tinyurl.com/3yx5bbp2
Space Station Zero Game: tinyurl.com/54jbx5vr
Reign in Hell Game: tinyurl.com/nhdwp8tv
Support us on Patreon: / vincentrventurella
Merch Store: vince-venturella-shop.fourthw...
Monument Hobbies Pro Acryl: (paint, primer, basing paste, etc.):
monumenthobbies.com/?ref=VinceV
10% off your total order! Enter COUPON CODE: VinceV
Element Games - (ALL your hobby needs, UK based, ships WORLDWIDE):
elementgames.co.uk/?d=10829
Use Referral Code: VIN0010 for DOUBLE STORE CREDIT CRYSTALS on your first purchase!
Social Media
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Instagram: VincentVenturella
Email: WarhammerWeeklyQuestions@gmail.com
RPG Podcast: podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast...
0:00 Intro
1:13 Basics
4:08 Applying the Wash
7:15 Streaking
10:10 Rust Tones
14:18 Outro - Ігри
03:58 oh to the contrary - my Warhammer Minis do in fact owe me money. A LOT.
"A Venturella always paints his debts."
“It doesn’t owe you any money”
LOL
Hahaha my initial reaction too! XD
Vince, you're the man! A true Bob Ross of miniature painting.
I've watched alot of channels and tutorials but it's got to be said; your videos are calming, easy to follow and i feel that i really absorb the information and techniques you put across easiest! Thankyou
Awesome, thank you!
Vincey V is the best dude ever.
Thanks for showing us the way, straight to the point, no fluff.
Oil washes have been the single thing that transformed my painting the most. Its just a great tool to have
James Wappel would be proud. Great tutorial and explanation.
I've used oils to do horses. For bays and chestnuts paint an acrylic undercoat of tan. Then brush on a very thick wash (much thicker than you have used here) of burnt umber or Van dyke brown and let stand for an hour or so. Then wipe with foam. Depending on the breed I might apply black or white to the lower legs. For White and gray horses undercoat in gray white and apply oil wash using Payne's Gray. This technique will also let you create dappled grays where you stipple on gray and white washes on hind quarters and shoulders. Oil washes on horses can look rather glossy which can reproduce the effect of sweaty hair. I've had less success doing black horses with this method.
Dude this sounds awesome I need some pics!!
You mentioned having trouble using this technique to get good looking black horses... I'm curious to know what that process was, specifically, to maybe see what can be done to accomplish it. I've got a few older kits with horses that I'm looking to paint, and black could look pretty baller there...
I just got into mini painting after getting a used 3D printer to toy around with out of interest a few weeks ago. You sir hands down deliver the most valuable educational videos imo. not only are they incredibly detailed, you also never fail to provide the reason for why you are doing something a certain way, not only showing how to do it! thank you so much for your effort!
Glad I could help :)
Oil paints are so much fun to experiment with. I appreciate your hobby videos, great for inspiration as I work on my various projects.
Minor note, curing isn't a reaction with light, it's oxidation, so it's a chemical reaction, not evaporation.
Not for the thinners. Often they burn off faster in the heat
@@criticalcommenterheat tends to accelerate chemical reactions
@@criticalcommenter The thinners can and do evaporate. Just in the video, Vince was looking for the right term on this and said it was a reaction with light, and it's mostly a reaction with oxygen. That being said, absolutely the hydrocarbon volatiles do evaporate
I love all Vince Ventrilla videos 👏👍🤙
And professor DM!
Venturella
I've started using oils over acrylic base layers to paint flowing cloaks. Super long working time and insane blending ability means that with a basic blue and a white I can just get amazing results.
I was there for HC 89 and I am here for HC 447 as well. Happy to see that you're still going strong 💪 Vince!
Awesome! Thank you!
I tried oil paints last week. I had three problems. And you adressed all three of them. Thank you very much.
Great video! One little tip i got was that when you mix your wash, it will go faster to achieve a smooth blend if you mix the paint with a small part of the thinner first. That helps break up the lumps. Then you add more thinner to get the consistency you want.
Its like making pancake batter. If you mix the flour with all the liquid right away there will be lumps. If you add part of the liquid and mix, you will get a smooth blend much quicker 👍
I just tried oil washes for the first time last week. Easy and great results! No fighting tide marks/coffee stains.
"It doesn't owe you any money" hahaha :D great vid as always Vince - Mike
There is also "oil dot filter" technique used by scale modelers and applicable to big miniatures. It is used to break the uniform look of plain areas. Basically you place a whole bunch the dots of different colors oil paint or wash on the model and then depending using dabbing or streaking movements of the brush you blend them in across the whole model. This gives a model more worn look and makes it look quite a bit interesting.
Thank you sir, I didn’t know I can use oil over acrylic, more videos like these please.🙏🏼
Will do!
Oils made the painting process more relaxing, and now I enjoy myself more after incorporating them. So many fun and intresting usages such as wet on wet overbrush can work easy.
Simple techniques, shown clearly and carefully explained, there's a lot more you can do with oils but if you only used them this way then you'd create marvellous effects that the eye loves
For me, the biggest barrier to oils is disposal. In my area (not sure how much it varies across states) acrylics can go in the trash, while oils/mineral spirits have to go to hazmat disposal which is a pain and sometimes has disposal fees.
Great video for those who are so inclined though.
Love the oil videos. I'm just starting out with them, and compared to acrylics, there aren't many videos about the process out there. I don't enjoy 2hr videos packed with non sequiturs, so this is perfect 🤘
great and simple..amazing..thank you! :)
This is awesome because it just expands on a video that I still use to this day for all my knights.
You gave me the courage to try it out with that first video you released. Once you get the hang of it, you will never go back to regular washes. Thank you Vince!
Great as ever cheers Vince.
To speed up drying time, just add to your wash Cobalt drier (see product for proportions).
I wonder if Vince uses it and his thoughts about that stuff. It works fine for me, tho you have to keep in mind oils always take long time time to FULLY cure.
There's also oil brands (think Abteilung) formulated for model painting which also slightly cut the curing time over cheaper options.
WinTon has always been my go to brand tbh but Abteilung are good too.
Just got a small tube of brown and black to experiment with and this video drops!
I had previously done a little bit of panel lining with oil paints and it was amazing. I had a rocky base on a model last night and I tried going over the whole base with brown to get dirt between the rocks. It wiped off amazingly but left "dirt" between the rocks and made them nice and dirty without making them look like brown rocks. This hobby never ceases to find new ways to amaze me.
Nice work!
10:10 I have multiple pure PR101 oil/acrylic paints, but this Winton one remains my favorite hue wise. Very full on orange rust brown.
Inspiring as always Vince.
I finally did an oil wash for the first time, on my Ironclad Drake just a few days ago. Your vid gave me the push needed and i really enjoyed the process, and it looks good too
Glad I could help
thanks Mister, it is always a joy to watch your videos :)
My pleasure!
Thank you vince v. I had been looking forward to start with oils
I would love to see your approach to using these techniques when it comes to 'speed painting' an army. I'm currently experimenting with oil washes on my Kruleboyz!
Go vince…Hobbycheating best show on youtube🤙🏻
One of these weeks, I'd love to see you do a product review on the Villainy Ink line (of enamels). I got mine recently and I've been excited about the different ways I can play with it, but it'd be awesome to see what you think!
Thank you for this information! I will be applying it soon.
"It doesn't owe you any money" made me laugh out loud :) Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great for grimdark effects on minis, buildings and terrain. Regards Lexi
Love it when you explain to wipe down and on the video you are going up :D you made my day :)
AK has a nice set of brushes for weathering
literally just got an adeptus titanicus starter box and some oil paint supplies and planned to figure it out over this weekend. fortuna favet! the timing could not be more perfect, thank you vince!
Thank you sir. Your videos are the best!
Glad you like them!
Be Sir-Mix-A-Lot? That's a tall task. "I like thick paints and I cannot like, you other painters can't deny, when a tube of paint with that artist grade get squeezed I get sprung..."
This is great timing! Im literally JUST getting into oil washes, got the paints, the spirit, and some varnish. Can't wait to begin experimenting!
One new workfllw I hsve for army painting is
1zenithal
2 contrast
3 airbrush highlights
Oils wash
Makes amazing models
I like big blends and I cannot lie
I was heavily referring to your past oil guides as i finished my SmashBash submission this week, glad I'll have a new one to reference for next time!
Thanks for the video! I will definitely try some oil paints on my iron warriors.
Great video Vince, thanks!
Great video vince as always. I need some advice here: I recently started a custom Mark 2 Horus Heresy White Scars army and I applied all the base colors and nice transitions (white armour, red shoulderpads) with an airbrush. Then, I applied decals with microset and microsol, sealed with varnish through airbrush, all nice and good. Next step is to get all the little recesses, bolts, etc. shaded so oil wash time, the plan after that is easy going again. I tried a dark grey and different black and brown mixes from Winsor & Newton, Abteilung 502 and already finished ones from AK such as starship wash. No matter how thin or thick I mix it and no matter if I apply no varnish, matte varnish or gloss varnish before the oilwash, it ALWAYS stains the white too much even after really removing all of it on the surfaces as good as I can (no matter if I let it dry first or not, also tried all kinds of mineral spirits and solvents) with q-tips and brushes. I just can't make it work to just get the recesses nice and dark and the surface as close to the original cold white as I can. I also tried just pinwash but it was basically the same result. I applied the same process with a 30k Death Guard army with awesome results so I am very surprised that cold white in contrast to bone color causes such an issue. Any ideas?
So cold whites like that use a large titanium pigment likely, so they are very matte and can trap pigment from the wash really easy, making it difficult to get completely clean. In effect, they are always going to be stained to some degree. You can minimize it some with a heavy gloss varnish, but there is always going to be some residual staining.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince, I will give it one more try with a bit more gloss varnish before! Since decals are already on and sealed and preassembly with red is already glued on that's gonna be it I guess 😀
How much you thin it depends on your way of working with them.
I like to panel line things with them, so I want the wash thin enough to do the capillary action better, but still strong enough to show.
I don’t know about white spirits interacting with acrylics, but I found out turpentine sure does! Make sure your brushes are completely dry after a turpentine cleaning.
Yeah. Turpentine removes paint and varnish. Not good for an oil wash
Perfect timing thanks
Perfect!
Thanks Vince!
Great video and awesome tips, slowly getting the courage up to use oil wash Instead of the ready made washes. Thanks for posting.
You can do it!
Excellent tutorial on oil washes…haven’t use oil in quite while but you’ve give me some great ideas to work with. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks again for another wonderful video. You delivered one of the best oil tutorial yet. Really eased some fears I had to try them. Thanks again !
Glad it was helpful!
Great as always
I always hated the lengthy drying/curing time. I’m talking DAYS for a piece of terrain. However, you can pick up Liquin Impasto (gloss finish) or Oleo impasto to mix with the oils and cut down on their drying time and influence their finish.
Thank you for another hobby cheating video!) Very like it)
Remember that colors other than black or brown can be employed to achieve various effects. Adding a bit of blue can make recesses colder. Green can give a mossy or verdigris effect. Purple on pale flesh can make it look more sickly.
“Be Sir Mix A lot”. Finally my dreams are realized.
Artists' oil paints on the basis of natural and synthetic fatty oils *cure through oxidization and polymerization - which totally depends on the absorption of oxygen from air.* UV light only plays a role in making a precursor substance from linseed oil, typically used in traditional painting mediums (siccative de haarlem). Accelerator substances for oil paints are therefore catalysts speeding up the oxidation process, usually cerium or manganese based (in the past, lead-based). Painting mediums of the "quick-drying" type (also) contain a resin solution where a solvent evaporates, leaving behind a resin "matrix" (dammar or a synthetic resin) that traps the fatty oils until the oxidation / curing process is complete. Those "physical" drying mediums should only be used on lower layers.
Then there are of course oil/wax mixtures that can be UV-activated, but those are not oil paints - but that could, in theory, be mixed with artist's oil paints. This does work but the results are typically not very lively and work best for absorbing materials like in terrain building. Also, those substances can overheat and combust under certain circumstances.
(me: professional toy developer & human factors dude, teaching materials & surface treatment tech.)
13:54 - Battletech: A Game of ARMORED Combat!?
15:05 Vince prayed for us
I really like to paint things like skin or NMM by oil paints. It takes time to learn how to mix your own colors but it definitely worth it. Even if curing time sometimes is insanely long.
I totally agree!
I've been having issues pinwashing armour panels. I'll drop it in watch it fill in all the lines, very satisfying. I'll go away and come back and the lines are all broken up. What was once a solid filled panelline is now looking like a squashed dalmatian with the white base coat showing through
The oil wash is too thin and breaking up.
Thanks 🙂
Welcome 😊
When I paint my Night Lords, I bring my blue a bit lighter than I want. When I oil wash with Pjthalo blue mixed with black, I go all over. Even after wiping it away, the blue underneath has been darkened down and is more 'blue' than before. It was a happy accident on a test figure when figuring out a scheme I liked, but I've kept doing it because filtering with oils like that is so straightforward.
I love Payne's Grey for filtering blue. It's a dark blue-grey.
You 100% need to varnish. I often do oil washes over a zenith highlight with white ink. It’s very fragile. If in doubt, varnish.
Yes, the more bright or fragile the undercoat, the more likely you need to varnish, with something glossy like these metals, you're good without varnish. :)
The video I needed, my experience with oils is them flowing out of recess to a lower point in the model - I'm now thinking this may be due to diluting the oil too much.
Yeah, with oils you can even make what some call a “gunk wash” where you’re just slathering oil paint all over the model and then just use a brush dampened with mineral spirits to remove most of it. It blends beautifully as well.
Thumbs up! I just dont paint enough mechs, space marines or armored vehicles to take advantage of the oils I have. hmmm.. It occurs to me that you didnt mention panel lining with oils tho...
Oil washes are great for any surface you would use acrylic washes: fur, hair, flesh, panel lines (Tau and Aeldari are great for panel lining)
Thanks for the great insight. Oil washes are fantastic. They do some amazing things to terrain too. I've got two questions from the boring side of the hobby. Do you have any tips on cleaning brushes after using an oil wash and what do you do with the used mineral spirits when you are done?
I use so little, there isn't usually much left, but I just soak it up with a paper towel and throw it away.
Hey Vince! LOVE your videos as they really have made getting into this hobby more accessible. This really makes me want to jump into oil washes. Quick Q: if doing the simple wash with these, should this be done after the miniature is pretty much complete (base, layers, highlights) AND/OR can it be done after base coats and before layering/highlights? Just trying to better understand what step would yield the best results.
Generally, after base coats, then let is cure and back to acryllics for highlights and such.
'Slop' is possibly the most fun English language word to say
One thing no one ever talks about is cleanup. How do you clean your cups/palette/etc after your done?
I use so little, there isn't usually much left, but I just soak it up with a paper towel and throw it away.
Thanks as always Vince! How do you recommend cleaning brushes when using oils and mineral spirits?
Use mineral spirits like water whilst you're actually working, clean thoroughly with some brush soap when your session is done.
They say you shouldn't use the same brushes for your oils and acrylics, but, honestly, as long as I'm diligent about thoroughly cleaning them, I've never had problems using them at cross purposes. Just make sure you're cleaning them thoroughly before going from one to the other.
Yep, exactly as above.
Is a roe-bit the distant cousin of a deckle? Just curious ;)... Love the channel.
Great video Vince loved it, just one question mate, advantages or disadvantages of enamel washes & do you use them, thanks
That's likely a whole video in itself, but the key is you can mix to taste and have more versatility with oils.
I love oil washes. Tried Monument Hobbies Newsh recently. It's a pretty good acrylic approximation, but I actually lifted paint when I was wiping it off, particularly on certain edges. Maybe varnishing first in that case might be a good idea since it's acrylic medium?
Varnishing can stop that, less liquid can stop that, softer brushes or lighter touch can help.
👍👍
Hey Vince love the video, very informative. The only thing I would ask about is clean up brushes and metal mixing cups since it is probably not good to wash with water. So if you are using spirits to clean brushes and mixing cups, what do you do with the dirty or used spirits to dispose of them properly?
I just wipe them out and put them away. With brushes, normal brush soap or alcohol, since you are using synthetics.
@@VinceVenturella thank you
Great and helpful video! Will we get an oil paint Video list? You have so many videos so going through them and group them thematically would be super helpful... but also a lot of videos to go through 😅
Great idea!
Hey vince how would u show gold weathering on big vehicles? Maybe some verdigris to make it contrast?
Yep, you can also stipple dark brown or black as well lightly to create some pitting.
I'm curious about the light makes oil paints cure faster thing. I think that may be an old myth which keeps being repeated. Oil paint cures via oxidation, and while light can speed up some chemical reactions and make oxidation occur more quickly in some cases, I don't think this is the case for oil paints. Heat can make oil paint cure slightly quicker as it slightly speeds up the oxidation process. I wonder if the idea that light speeds up curing time stems from when the lights used for that purpose produced a lot more heat than the LED lights of today, and the light was confused with the heat as the source of the improved curing time?
Yes, it's oxidation and light creates heat which speeds up the effect I should have been more clear there.
What care do you need to have to paint with oils? I know I have to have good ventilation, but for example how long does the fume stay in the air and such? I have a little kid and I worry it might be bad for her if the thing stays up on the air for a very long time
Great video! First (and only) time I tried an oil wash, I probably rubbed too hard with the sponge, so some of the original paint came off. Therefore, I want to use a coat of varnish the next time. Now I wonder which varnish to take. Glossy will probably give the best result concerning the oil wash, but I'm worried that the areas where I wipe away the wash will then turn out too glossy. Could this happen?
You will matte everythign back down after you are done if you use a gloss varnish.
Have you used pre-mixed oils like tamiya panel liner? Same white spirits from an art store works with them right? I'm going to be using gloss varnish to avoid as much staining during the panel lining process as possible because I want to weather the armor separately. Thanks for having the dark yellow green in the pro acryl range btw, it made me love my paint scheme
Those are enamels
Those are enamels, but yes, I have used them a lot, quite good, especially over a satin or gloss varnish surface.
I've been reluctant to try oil washes because of the clean-up. I haven’t found a good tutorial about that yet. What's the proper/safe/ environmentally responsible way to clean up your spirits, washes, and used sponges?
I use so little, there isn't usually much left, but I just soak it up with a paper towel and throw it away.
If I want to paint acrylics over the oil, how long do I need to wait? should I use a crap brush or safe to use sables?
I give it at least a day or two, then you're good to go. The wash will cure usually faster than that, but that is to be as safe as possible.
When I started out with oil washes, and their close friends the enamels, I tried the flood-then-remove technique, I never really got on with it. I much prefer the targeted pin wash technique. It probably takes just as long, but being mostly additive rather than subtractive seems to suit me better.
I still enjoy that original knight video. If I remember right, that was your Sister Repentant on her giant rowbit that won a Golden Demon?
Hey Vince, great video as always, your videos are helping me to improve a lot and I am so thankful. I have heard from some people using oil paints on canvas that you need to wear specific masks when using oil paints and solvents, as their fumes can be toxic to inhale especially when used indoor. What's your take on this? Any suggestion safety-wise?
Not really something you have to worry about too much with the amounts we use, this is just a little bit in a tiny cup, so its not generally an issue.
You used Gamblin oil paints in the video. Does oil paint quality make as much difference in oil paints as they do in acrylic paints? Should I pick up a couple of tubes of artist grade paint or a more introductory grade to start with? Or if I buy a few more, for what quality should I be looking?
I used Winton (from Winsor and Newton), these are the student stuff, artist grade can make it easier to wash and certainly can be more valuable if you're doing actual painting with oils. Abtelung also makes things good for washes.
😊
Love the video, I've been trying my hand at doing this for some necrons, but im likely mixing it wrong. If the oil wash dries quite blotchy then what is likely the cause?
Some of my oil wash never really dries in my case (Weeks of drying).
COuld be too thin, that can cause an issue, could be the paint itself, some lower quality paints will really have a challenge when thinned like this.
Don't overdilute and don't buy cheap paint. A little bit goes a long way. Windsor and Newton oils are great without requiring a 2nd mortgage on your house.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks so much!
I like big washes and I cannot lie.....
Hi Vince, Thanks for the videos. I gave this a go on a few test models using Windsor Newton oils thinned (Bob Ross Oderless Thinner) over ArmyPainter Fanatic acrylics without varnish (given what you'd said). The layer of paint appeared to swell up and wrinkle and easily came off when I gently wiped with a soft make up sponge.
Did the same with ArmyPainter speedpaints with no issues. Would you have any thoughts/advice on this? Is it down to the fanatic range?
Thanks
COuld have been not cured, might have been too much liquid for it. Not sure, was this the first generation of AP, never seen that happen.
No, this was the latest AP Fanatic paint, 2 to 3 thin coats, left to dry for at least a couple of days.
Tried to keep the oil wash relatively thick as per your recommendation (definitely liquid, but like paint rather than a wash). Applied it and came back 20-30 mins later to see the wrinkling.
I'd tried over a couple of bases previously, but had wiped off the oil much quicker, and had used a thinner wash (prior to your video coming out), why no ill effect. AP paint had probably been thinner though (stippled metallic onto an industrial looking base).
Would like to give it another go, just trying to work out if it was user error 🫠 or the paint or indeed thinner 🤷
Thanks for your help