Another great video Vince! You forgot to mention that it's doubly important to prep your minis when using washes/drybrushing. Those mold lines and bad joints stick out like a sore thumb once the wash has done exactly what it's supposed to do.
I see more and more examples of painters using washes right over the primer layer and then doing the actual painting with layer type paints over that. Back in the dark ages, we always just used an ink wash over the finished model, which is what I still do. I wouldn’t mind seeing an “advanced technique” video on using washes and inks, as well as any tips for using wash type paints for doing blending and transitions. Like shading from red, through purple and into blue. Or shading from brown bark into green branches and stems.
Same, I basically do every mid tone color on a model, wash it all over, then comeback with mids and highlights. I have also heard of doing highlights before the wash but have never tried.
I feel like this one was more "Washes: Core Skills", because when you move into more advanced application, things like that KoS can take washes just fine but it requires a more considered approach and using them more like glazes or regular paints but taking advantage of some of their wash properties to make the work a little easier for army painting.
Thank you so, so much for this. I'm painting an Ork army - my first army - that involves a lot of metallics and intense colors that need to be properly aged and darkened down. In addition, it's a Dread Mob, focused on larger models (akin to Dreadnoughts, with a lot of mid to large-mid size mechs), so there are plenty of larger surfaces to worry about. Needless to say, washes are an essential part of that process, and there are a lot of nooks and crannies to take care of. The techniques and tips you provided in this video were really helpful, from explanations of how washes work and their composition to the brushes to use to the overall application techniques. I really appreciate how thorough you are, and how much knowledge you share (I'm also really, really envious of your wall of paints).
Thanks for the explanation of how to formulate your own washes! I always wondered what the "secret sauce" was for this, as I never seem able to produce something with the same characteristics (I inevitably end up creating some variation of a glaze that won't pool into recesses). Also appreciate the discussion of how and why a wash can destroy a brush.
the cheapest way to fix it is to add a tiny bit of dish soap. This will break up the water surface tension and cause the homemade acrylic wash to flow into the recesses.
@@boardwithpaintyes. Both are surfactants (reduce surface tension). Just remember with most artists flow improvers it's like, 1 drop per liter, or something ridiculous. They will all have instructions on preferred dilution. It doesn't take much! And they can only reduce the tension so much! Have fun!
I literally woke up this morning to head down to start painting and I’m at the stage where I want to start applying washes. I stopped to see what you posted this morning…..fortuitous! Great video as always.
Hey Vince great as always. Just wanted to let you know I’ve watched a bunch of your videos on how to highlight colors with ice blue and yellow. I’m big into painting armies so I gotta paint fast. My new method is priming warm or cold (something you taught me as well), air brushing my favorite base color (usually ninjons dark plum) then dry brushing your white blue or ice yellow. Then block out my colors with inks or contrast. Then as time goes on and I want to upgrade the paint job I go in and paint over those blocked in colors to finer quality and detail. It’s been great and is quickly rewarding visually
Thank you Vince. Going to try a "White Prime" followed by a "Dark/Black Wash" followed by a "White Dry Brush" to essentially create a "Contrast Basecoat" which may then have Contrast/Speedpaint/Glazes applied over.
I’ve found that when painting smaller scale miniatures (6mm and 10mm), Newton and Windsor Inks e.g. ‘nut brown’ seem to be better than the regular GW and Army Painter products. The Newton and Windsor Inks have much less surface tension and so you don’t get the ‘pooling’ or ‘glazing’ effect.
This video came out just a few days too late. I used washes with my nice brushes just recently. They are currently soaking in a solvent you recommended for brush care in one of your earlier videos. I am sure you mentioned not using them with sable brushes earlier, but I did not have sable brushes until just recently, so probably just ignored it. Thanks for the great video and continuing to teach!
Great video!! I love these topics when you take them on. I get reminded of the fundamentals and always find a rid bit to make my journey better. Thanks😊
I recently used a wash on a space marine terminator. I stopped using washes because of false perception of "liquid skill" and I wanted to push miniatures with layering instead. I wish I watched this video prior doing that, it would've made clean up quicker. What I learnt for sure out of this is the amount of paint used, 2 brushfuls or 3 for something like a marine is probably a third of what I used and the pooling has been a big issue. Thank you for yet another great tip video Vince!
Vince could you maybe as an addon to this video about acrylic washes do a product recommendation? Like you have done with Vallejo metal color for silver metallics and gsw gold pigment powder for gold, but for must have best washes (perhaps a black wash, a flesh wash, something for shading gold etc..)?
Nowadays I usually just use washes for glazing some colours in after enamel washes, that are integral for my painting. As always an extremely informative video Vince.
Amusingly, I just tried to paint Shalaxi yesterday while primarily using contrast paints. I was experiencing really bad coffee staining and streaks, despite using two coats of the relevant colors thinned down with some contrast medium. I attempted to re-layer over the streaky areas but wasn't happy with the result, and I concluded I was probably using the wrong tools for the job. Then I saw this video and your example of "bad for washes" model. :) I'm currently stripping Shalaxi and will reattempt painting with more care in mind, and perhaps using more traditional paints instead.
So if I add some flow improver to the wash I'm panel lining with it would work even better? Maybe even worth changing the shade formula to be a bit less medium bit more flow improver for lining shade purposes? Sweet.
Get a black(dark) oil paint and some odourless thinner for panel lining 😉🥰 so good for it! I think there are some enamel options available at most hobby stores also (not GW tho) 👊🍻
@@JakeDogg-RIP I got an oil pin wash setup but I much prefer working with acrylics. Oil paint and its (odourless) thinners are quite unpleasant chemicals and hazardous to pets (my parrot likes to watch me paint)
@@Lilybun ah, yeah I understand that. I just prefer the oils coz it’s so much faster and better results too for the time spent, but it can be a mess sometimes too. Hope u got some good tips from vincey! 🥰🍻
Yes, if you're sticking with acryllics, then something like upping the flow improver will step it up a notch. You could also check out the recent Tron Tau video I did for more tips on how to cheat with panel lining.
Great tips! My tip if the day is dont be afraid to layer over a wash! So airbrush is what I use but lets say i havy wash ghouls or something and its too red or purple? Well build up a layer from the outside in. Thisnwill leavr some in the recesses and cover the tide marks or patches that are sitting on the flat surface. I kove washes,only gw paint product i use.
I’ve never encountered a more effective acrylic paint solvent than an acrylic wash when I am applying it. I may have misunderstood Pro Acryl’s intended use-case for their washes but the bottle I have ONLY removes paint, regardless of drying time.
Thanks for the video. I use washes frequently, but the one crux is on flesh, specifically muscles. When I apply it, the end result is floating muscles.
What you see here, keep it thin, keep the brush moving avoid any kind of pooling. You will always get a little but if you keep the brush swishing and moving and work thin, you should have minimal tide marks.
It took using Pro-Acryl primer for me to realise why my washes had stopped working how they used to. As I gained more experience I started buying different brands of paints rather than G.W./Citadel and Vallejo. I started using Pro-Acryl and AK Interactive 3rd gen, the washes acted more as a stain. P-A Primer is absorbet (because it is matte) just like the paint, but because it was white primer, rather than coloured paint, I could see the colour change due to the absorption. Light bulb moment followed swiftly with feeling like an idiot because I didn't spot the issue earlier. Great video once again, Vince. Thank you. Edit* I see you playing with fire there, Vince; a wash bottle not in a holder while youre working around your camera set-up? You're either brave or wreckless 😂
Thank you for posting this, Vince! This was my first of your videos. Heading over to hit Subscribe in a moment. One quick question… given that washes settle into the wells and crevices of the model, wouldn’t it matter how you hold the model while painting? If gravity is part of the process, and pooling is to be avoided, is this something to be concerned about?
It's a good point, it can be a little, though really, you should be applying and swishing the brush and it should be having very little effect because you shouldn't be leaving an amount that can pool or really run too much. (Also, welcome, glad to have you on the hobby journey!)
I'd love a video on which washes are worth their salt. I've been using Vallejo washes but as far as I can tell people online seem to rank those very much at the bottom end of the scale of washes
The Vallejo washes have a very different use, they're great as filters and streaking, not so good for panel lining and 'all over washes' that we army painters tend to use them for. They were designed for scale model tanks and stuff.
What do you think about putting wash into panel lines and deep recesses? Space marines will often have deep grooves and notches in their armor/helmet. Is it a good idea to just put some drops of nuln oil/wash in there to make it stand out or is there a better way? Thank you for all you do Vince!
It can help it run and prevent staining to some degree, but it can also enhance some of the brush stroke streaking since there is nothing for the wash to grab onto. It makes it a challenge, but can be great for things like oil washes.
Hey Vince, I know this is an older video so i hope you see this, but I was wondering if you have ever tried thinning the army painter washes (which obviously come from the bottle with a much stronger and seemingly higher amount of pigment to them) with isopropyl alcohol? maybe a low concentration like in the 70%ish range? I was thinking that while it isn't necessarily thinner than water it does seem to have innately lower surface tension and that using a bit of it might help them act more like an oil wash without having to mess around with oil washes? Or would the wash just get broken down too much by the alcohol? I know that Tamiya's Panel Liner product acts a lot like an oil wash while being mostly an acrylic product (I think i really don't know) but i do know that they use a mostly alcohol base mixture in their acrylic paints to make them act more like enamel paints. Am I correct in this or am i way off base? Thanks in advance and keep it up man, love the videos!
@@VinceVenturella i was thinking of trying it but i don't know if the wash would just break down. what are the odds you think that it would just break it down entirely
Are you sure flow improver has much/any surfactants in there? I thought it's called "airbrush flow improver" because they add retarder to prevent tip dry. Golden sells a separate product (which they now call wetting agent) that's basically surfactants. In the past people used gloss varnish or quickshine in their homemade washes because they contain surfactants that are designed to level the polish when drying. The fact that commercial shades/washes seem to dry a bit glossy make me think something similar is being used there. In any case it doesn't change the tips since there is definitely something there to break up the water surface tension.
Hey Vince, I'm brand new to the hobby (I've painted literally 5 miniatures so far) and I have something that I'm really struggling with so I figured I'd put it in the comments of your most recent video because maybe you'd see it. Basically, I'm having a lot of issues with removing those leftover sprue bits that are left when you cut the mini from the sprue. I've actually been very pleased with my painting progress thanks in no small part to you but I keep messing up and either over-scraping / sanding it or under. I event watched Ninjon's video and I just can't replicate his ability to sand down the nubs with sanding sticks without obscuring the tiny details to the left/right of it. Particularly edges, I have a really bad time of not rounding off edges that should be sharp. Any help you could offer would be enormously helpful.
So part of it is just practice. i have a beginner playlist - so definitely go check out that playlist, it has everything you need for your first 6 months in the hobby. Now, some options. 1) You can get a finer set of nippers. You don't need to go crazy, but a solid, flush sharp set of nippers from Tamiya will be able to get you a nice flush cut that you may not even have to sand. 2) Use a lower grit sanding stick, you want something like 200 or 400 so you can work it away very slowly (you can also cut them down to work smaller). 3) your exacto knife is your friend. Soft gentle scracthing with either side of the blade (the sharp side or the back) can help you work that down more carefully. Hopefully that all helps.
Vince, I’ve noticed you use the Huge Miniatures additives a fair amount. I’m about to order their Slow Dry. Just wondering if you recommend their paint thinning medium and their flow improver as well because I’ll switch to them for all my needs if their good. Is the flow improver also a good flow improver for airbrushing as well? If you see this thanks Vince!
Thanks for the video. Until recently I thought I was just one of the few old farts that still used washes. It seemed that the process was hardly ever mentioned. I find it an essential step for painting an army rather than individual display pieces.
When I do a zenithal, the upward facing recesses will often be white as well. The solution I've read for this is to apply a wash after zenithal, but as you said, you end up with unnaturally dark recesses. Is there a solution or is it just a limitation of the zenithal plus contrast paint technique?
A very soft thin wash can help, those upward facing recesses will still have some slight shadow to them (basically the mid-tone), but yes, it's one of the challenges of the technique, so you just have to balance it out.
I always find, to me, they dry rather fast and I think I may overwork them as almost without fail they seem to get almost 'tarry' thick and gel like and seem to rarely move to recesses and just kinda blob mostly where they are put. Should I just slop them on all over and just leave it? Am I working it too much because they seem to be already drying and not going where it is supposed to? I have used them both on things like space marines and battletech mechs. Mec hs tend to have flat plates but deep recesses between them, would I be better off trying to only pin wash them?
Yeah, the key is the larger brush and working quickly. Once they are getting gummy at all, you have to stop, you want to spread it really thin across the model.
So the challenge here is it won't work. I had a very early video about this, but inner glow actually glows, so it needs to travel out. Inner glow isn't a quick effect sadly. Now, that all being said, if you are going for a bright in the recesses, you want someting like a white ink thinned down and then tone the color over the top.
I have a silly question how do I wash and color to like a tank like a tiger tank in 15 mm or in 28 mm for like bolt action would it be better to use army painter like a black and brown wash mixed together and just keep it moving and then just clean it with dry brushing and layering or would it be better to do a pin wash
It's not a silly question, tanks and similar items with large flat surfaces just aren't made for washes, they don't work, it's a worst case scenario. You want to go to something like an oil wash (which I have previous videos on) or a panel liner and do a more pin washing technique in the panel recesses.
Maybe you can just apply a light poke of the wash directly to the panel crevice and let the capillary action pull it along the edge? Then you could clean up the pigments that lapped over onto the top surface very easily afterward. (I don't do models so I'm just guessing here).
Army Painter has washes. Speed Paints are something different, those are meant to compete with contrast paints, they have much mroe pigment and can be used in similar ways (similar rules apply), but will have a stronger effect.
Do you mean glossy? That generally happens because it wasn’t shaken well enough. You want to always give washes and such a strong shake or they will come out glossy.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you! I figured out that when I also mix it with a bit of water it comes off better. It's rather hard to get the proper shade on Yellow marines. but I'm getting there. :)
Speed Paints are more like contrast paints, they are more pigment rich and meant to fully tone the model to that color. Washes have very little pigment and are basically meant to not change the flats and only gather in the recesses (ideally).
@@VinceVenturella I see your point, but I've used a very thinned down enamel desert yellow as a dust wash on tank tracks and lower hull with good results.
@@davidschneider5462 THat would be an enamel wash, not an acryllic wash. That is a horse of a different color due to it's workability time, same would be true for oil washes.
The answer, like all things in painting, varies with your goals. If you're just starting or early in your journey, then yes, effectively after your base colors/tones are in place. Then you highlight and clean-up. If you're using them in a more advanced way, they can be applied later in the process, but that is a whole different video. :)
Mentioned this in your other comment, but - Absolutely, washes are simply a tool to darken recesses, they have alow pigment count and flow improvers, they are meant to put over the whole figure, or an area of the figure, and flow and gather into the recesses, lightly staining the flat areas, but significantly darkening the recessed areas of a miniature to create more definition.
By making your own wash or referring to the future floor wax and black ink trick which was magic and for those of you don't know what that is and want to make a really really simple wash for miniatures that don't have a lot of detail and you don't have a lot of time to paint you take one bottle of Vallejo black ink and a bottle of Future floor wax and it's probably called something different you put that bottle ink in the future floor wax and then you either dip the miniature in it or you apply it and you have magic it's an old historical trick
Ahhh future/pledge dipping. That takes me back. I feel like the army painters cans (not bottles) of dipping 'stufd' are the closest there is to that premade.
Absolutely, washes are simply a tool to darken recesses, they have alow pigment count and flow improvers, they are meant to put over the whole figure, or an area of the figure, and flow and gather into the recesses, lightly staining the flat areas, but significantly darkening the recessed areas of a miniature to create more definition.
Any way around glossy finish? It really puts me away from washes. Matt varnish? If so is rattle can Matt varnish any good? I don't own an air brush yet. I probably will get one eventually but not at this point in time
So you don’t recommend GW’s technique of “put brushfulls of wash on a palette so it dries out quickly, slather tons on the model so you have to touch up 90% of the model with more layer paint, and leave the pot open so it dries out quicker too” method? 😂
Love this dude's videos but his demeanor is like a professor who's delivered this lecture 100 times already and you know you better not ask any questions
11:48 and that's my f*cking problem with the newer Citadel shades. They're so WEAK! I want them to tint and darken the area I've shaded! I WANT that high contrast in my miniature. The newer shades aren't doing that, and I have to rely on their contrast paints!
SO here is the problem. I love (LOVE) battletech. I've loved battletech for 30 years. I hate battletech minis. I have no desire to paint that scale and the minis are generally bad. It's a problem.
In the words of Miniac "Washes are for bitches" 😂 which I had actually kind of come to live by but my question to the God that is Vincey-V is. Do you use washes in your competition pieces? And what if you struggle no matter what you do too make it not look like you used a wash all over but it just ruins your model?
I don't all over wash anything really anymore, but I use washes quite frequently, even if only in basing or similar rough textures. I often use them as thin filters or to add tones or something similar.
Now I always thought Wash was the thing 40k players forgot to do before a tournament... you learn something every day.
😂 Spot on!
Have only been to one 40k tournament yet can confirm.
I took one look at this guy and thought, "This is the guy I want my hobby advice from.".
Another great video Vince! You forgot to mention that it's doubly important to prep your minis when using washes/drybrushing. Those mold lines and bad joints stick out like a sore thumb once the wash has done exactly what it's supposed to do.
Great point!
The big dog never lets us down! Thanks Vince
Indeed!
BIG Dogg TECHNOMANCER!! 😉🔥🔥🔥🍻😂
Honestly after I started using varnishes I finally am happy with how my washes are, gloss for the smooth flow and matt over to look nice.
Can't have a Saturday without Vince helping us get better, thank you sir.
My pleasure!
I see more and more examples of painters using washes right over the primer layer and then doing the actual painting with layer type paints over that. Back in the dark ages, we always just used an ink wash over the finished model, which is what I still do. I wouldn’t mind seeing an “advanced technique” video on using washes and inks, as well as any tips for using wash type paints for doing blending and transitions. Like shading from red, through purple and into blue. Or shading from brown bark into green branches and stems.
Same, I basically do every mid tone color on a model, wash it all over, then comeback with mids and highlights. I have also heard of doing highlights before the wash but have never tried.
I feel like this one was more "Washes: Core Skills", because when you move into more advanced application, things like that KoS can take washes just fine but it requires a more considered approach and using them more like glazes or regular paints but taking advantage of some of their wash properties to make the work a little easier for army painting.
All hail the Paintfather! Thanks once again for the breakdown! Always helpful if new or just needing a refresher!
Thank you so, so much for this.
I'm painting an Ork army - my first army - that involves a lot of metallics and intense colors that need to be properly aged and darkened down. In addition, it's a Dread Mob, focused on larger models (akin to Dreadnoughts, with a lot of mid to large-mid size mechs), so there are plenty of larger surfaces to worry about.
Needless to say, washes are an essential part of that process, and there are a lot of nooks and crannies to take care of. The techniques and tips you provided in this video were really helpful, from explanations of how washes work and their composition to the brushes to use to the overall application techniques.
I really appreciate how thorough you are, and how much knowledge you share (I'm also really, really envious of your wall of paints).
Thanks for the explanation of how to formulate your own washes! I always wondered what the "secret sauce" was for this, as I never seem able to produce something with the same characteristics (I inevitably end up creating some variation of a glaze that won't pool into recesses). Also appreciate the discussion of how and why a wash can destroy a brush.
the cheapest way to fix it is to add a tiny bit of dish soap. This will break up the water surface tension and cause the homemade acrylic wash to flow into the recesses.
@@tychayI assume flow improver would do the same thing?
@@boardwithpaintyes. Both are surfactants (reduce surface tension).
Just remember with most artists flow improvers it's like, 1 drop per liter, or something ridiculous. They will all have instructions on preferred dilution. It doesn't take much! And they can only reduce the tension so much!
Have fun!
I literally woke up this morning to head down to start painting and I’m at the stage where I want to start applying washes. I stopped to see what you posted this morning…..fortuitous! Great video as always.
You got this!
Hey Vince great as always. Just wanted to let you know I’ve watched a bunch of your videos on how to highlight colors with ice blue and yellow. I’m big into painting armies so I gotta paint fast. My new method is priming warm or cold (something you taught me as well), air brushing my favorite base color (usually ninjons dark plum) then dry brushing your white blue or ice yellow. Then block out my colors with inks or contrast. Then as time goes on and I want to upgrade the paint job I go in and paint over those blocked in colors to finer quality and detail. It’s been great and is quickly rewarding visually
Love it!
Great tip about brush choice. Capillary action works both ways, makes perfect sense
Thank you Vince. Going to try a "White Prime" followed by a "Dark/Black Wash" followed by a "White Dry Brush" to essentially create a "Contrast Basecoat" which may then have Contrast/Speedpaint/Glazes applied over.
I’ve found that when painting smaller scale miniatures (6mm and 10mm), Newton and Windsor Inks e.g. ‘nut brown’ seem to be better than the regular GW and Army Painter products. The Newton and Windsor Inks have much less surface tension and so you don’t get the ‘pooling’ or ‘glazing’ effect.
This video came out just a few days too late. I used washes with my nice brushes just recently. They are currently soaking in a solvent you recommended for brush care in one of your earlier videos. I am sure you mentioned not using them with sable brushes earlier, but I did not have sable brushes until just recently, so probably just ignored it. Thanks for the great video and continuing to teach!
Great video!! I love these topics when you take them on. I get reminded of the fundamentals and always find a rid bit to make my journey better. Thanks😊
Glad you like them!
I always feel like you are reading my mind with the timing of your tutorials. Bless you
Do not forget to shake the devil out of your bottle of wash to make sure it is properly mixed and happy painting!
I recently used a wash on a space marine terminator. I stopped using washes because of false perception of "liquid skill" and I wanted to push miniatures with layering instead.
I wish I watched this video prior doing that, it would've made clean up quicker. What I learnt for sure out of this is the amount of paint used, 2 brushfuls or 3 for something like a marine is probably a third of what I used and the pooling has been a big issue. Thank you for yet another great tip video Vince!
Vince could you maybe as an addon to this video about acrylic washes do a product recommendation? Like you have done with Vallejo metal color for silver metallics and gsw gold pigment powder for gold, but for must have best washes (perhaps a black wash, a flesh wash, something for shading gold etc..)?
Nowadays I usually just use washes for glazing some colours in after enamel washes, that are integral for my painting. As always an extremely informative video Vince.
Excellent Video, thank you. The part about the brushes alone is worth the watch.
Glad it was helpful!
Amusingly, I just tried to paint Shalaxi yesterday while primarily using contrast paints. I was experiencing really bad coffee staining and streaks, despite using two coats of the relevant colors thinned down with some contrast medium. I attempted to re-layer over the streaky areas but wasn't happy with the result, and I concluded I was probably using the wrong tools for the job.
Then I saw this video and your example of "bad for washes" model. :)
I'm currently stripping Shalaxi and will reattempt painting with more care in mind, and perhaps using more traditional paints instead.
Great vid man, really appreciate your thorough approach to things like this. I grow every video I watch
Awesome! Thank you!
You can also mix your own washes by thinning down paint with water and mixing in some dish soap as surfactant. Nice for terrain and basing.
So if I add some flow improver to the wash I'm panel lining with it would work even better? Maybe even worth changing the shade formula to be a bit less medium bit more flow improver for lining shade purposes? Sweet.
Get a black(dark) oil paint and some odourless thinner for panel lining 😉🥰 so good for it! I think there are some enamel options available at most hobby stores also (not GW tho) 👊🍻
@@JakeDogg-RIP I got an oil pin wash setup but I much prefer working with acrylics. Oil paint and its (odourless) thinners are quite unpleasant chemicals and hazardous to pets (my parrot likes to watch me paint)
@@Lilybun ah, yeah I understand that. I just prefer the oils coz it’s so much faster and better results too for the time spent, but it can be a mess sometimes too. Hope u got some good tips from vincey! 🥰🍻
Yes, if you're sticking with acryllics, then something like upping the flow improver will step it up a notch. You could also check out the recent Tron Tau video I did for more tips on how to cheat with panel lining.
just as i was about to apply washes to my screaming bell, absolutely perfect timing toupload
Great tips! My tip if the day is dont be afraid to layer over a wash! So airbrush is what I use but lets say i havy wash ghouls or something and its too red or purple? Well build up a layer from the outside in. Thisnwill leavr some in the recesses and cover the tide marks or patches that are sitting on the flat surface.
I kove washes,only gw paint product i use.
I’ve never encountered a more effective acrylic paint solvent than an acrylic wash when I am applying it. I may have misunderstood Pro Acryl’s intended use-case for their washes but the bottle I have ONLY removes paint, regardless of drying time.
Thanks for the video. I use washes frequently, but the one crux is on flesh, specifically muscles. When I apply it, the end result is floating muscles.
Yep, it's fine for tabletop, but it's a challenge when you are doing something higher.
Hey Vince, you have a better way to deal with the inevitable tide marks?
What you see here, keep it thin, keep the brush moving avoid any kind of pooling. You will always get a little but if you keep the brush swishing and moving and work thin, you should have minimal tide marks.
It took using Pro-Acryl primer for me to realise why my washes had stopped working how they used to. As I gained more experience I started buying different brands of paints rather than G.W./Citadel and Vallejo. I started using Pro-Acryl and AK Interactive 3rd gen, the washes acted more as a stain. P-A Primer is absorbet (because it is matte) just like the paint, but because it was white primer, rather than coloured paint, I could see the colour change due to the absorption. Light bulb moment followed swiftly with feeling like an idiot because I didn't spot the issue earlier.
Great video once again, Vince. Thank you.
Edit* I see you playing with fire there, Vince; a wash bottle not in a holder while youre working around your camera set-up? You're either brave or wreckless 😂
Thank you for posting this, Vince! This was my first of your videos. Heading over to hit Subscribe in a moment.
One quick question… given that washes settle into the wells and crevices of the model, wouldn’t it matter how you hold the model while painting? If gravity is part of the process, and pooling is to be avoided, is this something to be concerned about?
It's a good point, it can be a little, though really, you should be applying and swishing the brush and it should be having very little effect because you shouldn't be leaving an amount that can pool or really run too much. (Also, welcome, glad to have you on the hobby journey!)
I'd love a video on which washes are worth their salt. I've been using Vallejo washes but as far as I can tell people online seem to rank those very much at the bottom end of the scale of washes
The Vallejo washes have a very different use, they're great as filters and streaking, not so good for panel lining and 'all over washes' that we army painters tend to use them for. They were designed for scale model tanks and stuff.
And if you're talking about the Vallejo game washes, yeah, I never had much luck with those. :-/
@@christopherheintz2634 I see, thanks for clarifying, I had no idea they were for big stuff!
Yep, in general, Citadel (GW) or Army Painter are really my go-tos for this category.
@@VinceVenturella much obliged!
Just what i needed! Thank you vince!
Happy to help!
What do you think about putting wash into panel lines and deep recesses?
Space marines will often have deep grooves and notches in their armor/helmet. Is it a good idea to just put some drops of nuln oil/wash in there to make it stand out or is there a better way?
Thank you for all you do Vince!
In general, something like enamel panel liner is the best option, or an ink with flow improver, something like that.
Thanks Vince! i didn't realize I've been using too much wash
Happy to help!
Hey Vince. I hope you don't mind the query on an old video. Can Army Painter washes be applied successfully with an airbrush? Thanks.
Yes, but they won't have the standard effect, they will just filter the color.
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the response
When are we getting your intro on spotify?
Would applying a gloss varnish to a model before using a wash enhance its effect of pooling into recesses?
It can help it run and prevent staining to some degree, but it can also enhance some of the brush stroke streaking since there is nothing for the wash to grab onto. It makes it a challenge, but can be great for things like oil washes.
Hey Vince, I know this is an older video so i hope you see this, but I was wondering if you have ever tried thinning the army painter washes (which obviously come from the bottle with a much stronger and seemingly higher amount of pigment to them) with isopropyl alcohol? maybe a low concentration like in the 70%ish range? I was thinking that while it isn't necessarily thinner than water it does seem to have innately lower surface tension and that using a bit of it might help them act more like an oil wash without having to mess around with oil washes? Or would the wash just get broken down too much by the alcohol? I know that Tamiya's Panel Liner product acts a lot like an oil wash while being mostly an acrylic product (I think i really don't know) but i do know that they use a mostly alcohol base mixture in their acrylic paints to make them act more like enamel paints. Am I correct in this or am i way off base? Thanks in advance and keep it up man, love the videos!
I haven't tried thinning them with alcohol, just water, but I can give that a try sometime. :)
@@VinceVenturella i was thinking of trying it but i don't know if the wash would just break down. what are the odds you think that it would just break it down entirely
@@callsignbeaver6355 I think it could work
Are you sure flow improver has much/any surfactants in there? I thought it's called "airbrush flow improver" because they add retarder to prevent tip dry.
Golden sells a separate product (which they now call wetting agent) that's basically surfactants. In the past people used gloss varnish or quickshine in their homemade washes because they contain surfactants that are designed to level the polish when drying. The fact that commercial shades/washes seem to dry a bit glossy make me think something similar is being used there.
In any case it doesn't change the tips since there is definitely something there to break up the water surface tension.
The straight technomancer vincy v
Hey Vince,
I'm brand new to the hobby (I've painted literally 5 miniatures so far) and I have something that I'm really struggling with so I figured I'd put it in the comments of your most recent video because maybe you'd see it.
Basically, I'm having a lot of issues with removing those leftover sprue bits that are left when you cut the mini from the sprue. I've actually been very pleased with my painting progress thanks in no small part to you but I keep messing up and either over-scraping / sanding it or under.
I event watched Ninjon's video and I just can't replicate his ability to sand down the nubs with sanding sticks without obscuring the tiny details to the left/right of it. Particularly edges, I have a really bad time of not rounding off edges that should be sharp.
Any help you could offer would be enormously helpful.
So part of it is just practice. i have a beginner playlist - so definitely go check out that playlist, it has everything you need for your first 6 months in the hobby. Now, some options. 1) You can get a finer set of nippers. You don't need to go crazy, but a solid, flush sharp set of nippers from Tamiya will be able to get you a nice flush cut that you may not even have to sand. 2) Use a lower grit sanding stick, you want something like 200 or 400 so you can work it away very slowly (you can also cut them down to work smaller). 3) your exacto knife is your friend. Soft gentle scracthing with either side of the blade (the sharp side or the back) can help you work that down more carefully. Hopefully that all helps.
Vince, I’ve noticed you use the Huge Miniatures additives a fair amount. I’m about to order their Slow Dry. Just wondering if you recommend their paint thinning medium and their flow improver as well because I’ll switch to them for all my needs if their good.
Is the flow improver also a good flow improver for airbrushing as well?
If you see this thanks Vince!
Yep, great stuff all across the line.
@@VinceVenturella cheers! Keen to try em out
Thanks for the video. Until recently I thought I was just one of the few old farts that still used washes. It seemed that the process was hardly ever mentioned. I find it an essential step for painting an army rather than individual display pieces.
Is wash gonna destroy acrilic underneath when aplied?
It shouldn't. Getting something wet can always pull paint if you're not careful, but if you apply gently, you should be fine.
When I do a zenithal, the upward facing recesses will often be white as well. The solution I've read for this is to apply a wash after zenithal, but as you said, you end up with unnaturally dark recesses. Is there a solution or is it just a limitation of the zenithal plus contrast paint technique?
A very soft thin wash can help, those upward facing recesses will still have some slight shadow to them (basically the mid-tone), but yes, it's one of the challenges of the technique, so you just have to balance it out.
I always find, to me, they dry rather fast and I think I may overwork them as almost without fail they seem to get almost 'tarry' thick and gel like and seem to rarely move to recesses and just kinda blob mostly where they are put. Should I just slop them on all over and just leave it? Am I working it too much because they seem to be already drying and not going where it is supposed to? I have used them both on things like space marines and battletech mechs. Mec hs tend to have flat plates but deep recesses between them, would I be better off trying to only pin wash them?
Yeah, the key is the larger brush and working quickly. Once they are getting gummy at all, you have to stop, you want to spread it really thin across the model.
Are you aware of any washes for lightening recesses? For a quick internal glow effect?
So the challenge here is it won't work. I had a very early video about this, but inner glow actually glows, so it needs to travel out. Inner glow isn't a quick effect sadly. Now, that all being said, if you are going for a bright in the recesses, you want someting like a white ink thinned down and then tone the color over the top.
Super random noob painter question, but are using Army Painter dips just the same as brushing their wash all over the model?
To some degree, but a lot less control, they often also are other materials that aren't just acrylics.
King is back
Thank's, always much appreciated !
You used p3 inks? Only p3 paint I use but they’ve been great for me.
Never really used their inks, they have very nice paints.
I have a silly question how do I wash and color to like a tank like a tiger tank in 15 mm or in 28 mm for like bolt action would it be better to use army painter like a black and brown wash mixed together and just keep it moving and then just clean it with dry brushing and layering or would it be better to do a pin wash
It's not a silly question, tanks and similar items with large flat surfaces just aren't made for washes, they don't work, it's a worst case scenario. You want to go to something like an oil wash (which I have previous videos on) or a panel liner and do a more pin washing technique in the panel recesses.
Maybe you can just apply a light poke of the wash directly to the panel crevice and let the capillary action pull it along the edge? Then you could clean up the pigments that lapped over onto the top surface very easily afterward. (I don't do models so I'm just guessing here).
Are washes and products like Army Painters SpeedPaints the same but just different branding by companies?
Army Painter has washes. Speed Paints are something different, those are meant to compete with contrast paints, they have much mroe pigment and can be used in similar ways (similar rules apply), but will have a stronger effect.
found you on Ninjon's channel subbed and so far like your content
Thank you, glad to have you along on the hobby journey!
Thank you so much! You are truly a rockstar!!
Great video!
Very nice video as always. But your keyboard, man... 💀 I can't unsee it
I recently bought vallejo brown wash, and models after applying it got the glowing effect, is that normal? I don't like it being glowy. Any help :)
Do you mean glossy? That generally happens because it wasn’t shaken well enough. You want to always give washes and such a strong shake or they will come out glossy.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you! I figured out that when I also mix it with a bit of water it comes off better. It's rather hard to get the proper shade on Yellow marines. but I'm getting there. :)
@@markomaksimovic1846 I have several videos of painting yellow figures, especially yellow marines, so check those out. :)
Hey Vince, are you using a heat gun in place of a hair dryer???
Yes, just way down on like heat 1
@@VinceVenturella thank you Vince, I appreciate you always finding the time to answer everyone, appreciated.
Hey Vince can you recommend a good airbrush varnish? I had ak interactive but they have some horrific controversies
Ammo by Mig makes a good replacement.
You're a G. great advice thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Vince, what wet palette are you using these days?
Game Envy, I need to do a full review, I love it, especially the new sponge and paper.
Thanks Vince.
does anyone know what he say in the intro about the technomancer and technique?
It's ninjon doing a funny little rap from their podcast. :)
What is the difference between speed paint and washes?
Speed Paints are more like contrast paints, they are more pigment rich and meant to fully tone the model to that color. Washes have very little pigment and are basically meant to not change the flats and only gather in the recesses (ideally).
Thanks Vince!
So washes are a no no for tanks like the Tau Hammerhead?
Correct, worst case scenario.
Get yourself a panel liner
Thx!
@@VinceVenturella I see your point, but I've used a very thinned down enamel desert yellow as a dust wash on tank tracks and lower hull with good results.
@@davidschneider5462 THat would be an enamel wash, not an acryllic wash. That is a horse of a different color due to it's workability time, same would be true for oil washes.
I think the word you’re looking for throughout this video is “relief”: characterized by surface inequalities.
Is it just me, or are the new GW shades much more glossy?
Haven't noticed it, but you have to really shake them, that will reduce the chance of gloss.
Whenever I watch Vince, the legend of the inter webs, I need to WASH myself off cause he’s the best looking host on the web. ❤
(Great video again)
Is it better to use washes at the beginning or the end of painting?
Generally you want to do it after your base colors but before doing highlights
The answer, like all things in painting, varies with your goals. If you're just starting or early in your journey, then yes, effectively after your base colors/tones are in place. Then you highlight and clean-up. If you're using them in a more advanced way, they can be applied later in the process, but that is a whole different video. :)
I still dont understand what there supposed to do washes i have lots them barely used them I would like to use them for warhammer.
Mentioned this in your other comment, but - Absolutely, washes are simply a tool to darken recesses, they have alow pigment count and flow improvers, they are meant to put over the whole figure, or an area of the figure, and flow and gather into the recesses, lightly staining the flat areas, but significantly darkening the recessed areas of a miniature to create more definition.
By making your own wash or referring to the future floor wax and black ink trick which was magic and for those of you don't know what that is and want to make a really really simple wash for miniatures that don't have a lot of detail and you don't have a lot of time to paint you take one bottle of Vallejo black ink and a bottle of Future floor wax and it's probably called something different you put that bottle ink in the future floor wax and then you either dip the miniature in it or you apply it and you have magic it's an old historical trick
Ahhh future/pledge dipping. That takes me back. I feel like the army painters cans (not bottles) of dipping 'stufd' are the closest there is to that premade.
I’m quickly noticing the rotating wallpapers having a large amount of MtG angels 😂
This came out just after Sonic Sledgehammer’s video comparing dark brown washes - such a funny coincidence.
Could washes be good on bolt action mini warlords games ww2 solders etc oh and space marines just learning about this stuff.
Absolutely, washes are simply a tool to darken recesses, they have alow pigment count and flow improvers, they are meant to put over the whole figure, or an area of the figure, and flow and gather into the recesses, lightly staining the flat areas, but significantly darkening the recessed areas of a miniature to create more definition.
I find acrylic washes are easy to get a good result, but difficult to get a REALLY good result. It's why I've shied away from Contrast style paints.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Any way around glossy finish? It really puts me away from washes. Matt varnish? If so is rattle can Matt varnish any good? I don't own an air brush yet. I probably will get one eventually but not at this point in time
Good shake and mix before application will reduce it. You can also ultra matte it down at the end.
@@VinceVenturella thank you, gonna try today 🫡
So you don’t recommend GW’s technique of “put brushfulls of wash on a palette so it dries out quickly, slather tons on the model so you have to touch up 90% of the model with more layer paint, and leave the pot open so it dries out quicker too” method? 😂
Love this dude's videos but his demeanor is like a professor who's delivered this lecture 100 times already and you know you better not ask any questions
I try to bring the real assistant professor at the local community college energy to the videos. ;)
11:48 and that's my f*cking problem with the newer Citadel shades. They're so WEAK! I want them to tint and darken the area I've shaded! I WANT that high contrast in my miniature.
The newer shades aren't doing that, and I have to rely on their contrast paints!
They are much weaker, which can cut both ways as you mention.
I would love to see you put some time on a battletech model or 2... ***Thumper eyes***
SO here is the problem. I love (LOVE) battletech. I've loved battletech for 30 years. I hate battletech minis. I have no desire to paint that scale and the minis are generally bad. It's a problem.
Wadup Vince!
If you close your eyes michael scott is teaching you to use contrast paint
👍👍
❤
Merci pour la vidéo
In all prepare
All those make-up brushes, as nice as they can be for painting soak like nobody's business and are a real bear to get clean.
In the words of Miniac "Washes are for bitches" 😂 which I had actually kind of come to live by but my question to the God that is Vincey-V is. Do you use washes in your competition pieces? And what if you struggle no matter what you do too make it not look like you used a wash all over but it just ruins your model?
I don't all over wash anything really anymore, but I use washes quite frequently, even if only in basing or similar rough textures. I often use them as thin filters or to add tones or something similar.
My problem is I tend to swoop when I think I actually need to swoosh, and swoosh when I probably need to swoop.
All about how to wash your stinky miniatures