I love the fact that Dan has that can do attitude and nothing is too difficult. He is not building show cars, but he is enjoying what he does, and I enjoy watching him and getting inspiration for whatever I'm doing to my old cars and truck.
Great job Dan, I am rebuilding the same truck, got a 5.3 to go into it. I put a Camaro 10" in the rear with 307 gears, I elected to put a triangulated 4 link, removes all that bullshit you're dealing with there. Best decision I made it. C-notched it as well, built my own out of a chunk of 5" round drill pipe. Installed a tank behind the diff and grafted a Camaor clip to the front. Just dealing with that now, Lots of work!
The F Body front frame is so versatile. I've used them in many different cars and trucks. And there are loads of aftermarket performance parts available for them. Pretty cheap too. Almost like companies are trying to unload all their old stock. Just watching Dan weld up that back I was thinking, Why not just use a piece of pipe or a chunk of square tube. But hey, to each their own.
I worked on used commercial trucks doing frame extensions and yes you can weld on a truck frame. I also installed highway snowplow hitches on dump trucks. Yes you can weld on truck frames.AL B.
Here is where Dan realizes that it’s not only the height of the leaf spring but also the height of the axle also flipping the axle will lower the truck
Hey Daniel please note put a magnet on the torch cart Get a key ring (like in your keys) get a long thin chain from the hardware store The magnet will hold 2 strikers the primary has a chain connected to it So he never losses it
great show today enjoyed it, I did a 58 small window short box solid except for cab corners…, I did a frame rail swap cut them and rewelded them side to side put the leafs on the inside put massive tires on 69 camaro front clip…used the rear end in my 57 black widow clone… loved that truck sold it like an idiot..
It’s gonna be sick looking sitting that low!! I’m diggin’ it!! It will still have a rake once the motor is in, and you can still use the bed for truck stuff. Good C-notch job!
Fiberglass is how I fixed the rotted out eyebrows on my '56 Chevy truck in 1985. I used expanding spray foam in the holes. I cut off the excess that was poking through the holes on top and sculped it to match the fender contour. Then I laid fiberglass mat over the eyebrow. Then bondo, sand, and paint.
My inner engineer always cringes at the loss of frame rail stiffness when those c-notches are installed. It is not quite so bad when coil springs and 4-links or long trailing arms are used because the back of the frame past the notch does not see driving loads, only cargo weight. C-notches destroy towing capacity regardless of the suspension used. Frame rail stiffness is calculated from BH^3/12 where B is the width and H is the cross section height. An under axle "bridge" made from tubing would restore the "section property" but I have yet to see any hot rodder make the effort. Oval track race cars use what is in effect a bridge structure around the rear axle for the same reason.
@@my31and37 No. The thickness is the "B" and it is only involved to the single power. Think about a 2x8 rather in a garage roof. If you cut a portion down to 3 inches wide, the roof sags. Bracing it with 2x4s only helps a little bit. You can drill a big hole thru the 2x8 and hardly effect the roof at all because the "H" is still there. This is why frame rails are shaped the way they are. BTW, boxing a frame doubles "H" and that is why the frame is so much stiffer.
I have to agree. I would never do that to a frame. He has created the worst possible situation here. The notch is halfway in between the front spring mount and the rear spring mount, and the axle and wheel/tire are right in the middle. Every time it hits a bump, both the front and rear of the spring are going to push upward on the frame, concentrating stress right in the middle, which is the weakest point, right where that notch is. Over time, fatigue will weaken it even further, and it will start to develop cracks. I used to know someone that actually happened to, only it was a motorcycle, not a car/truck. He built a "bobber" out of his motorcycle, and wanted to lower the rear. He eliminated the shocks and replaced them with shorter struts. Some motorcycles have the bottom of the shock mounted right at the rear of the swing arm, creating a triangulated structure. But this one had the lower shock mount right in the middle of the swing arm, halfway between the rear axle and the front swing arm pivot. So every time the rear wheel hit a bump, all the force was directed into the center of the swing arm, just below the strut. The shocks had enough give to absorb a lot of that stress, but the solid strut didn't. It basically created a fulcrum point right below the lower shock mount, and sure enough, the swing arm buckled right at that point. Only one side actually broke, causing him to crash. The other side was bent and cracked at the same place. Fortunately he was not seriously injured. On this truck, most of the force is going to come from the rear spring mount, and is going to push up on the rear of the frame, slowly weakening it where that notch is, until it finally breaks.
Nah...can't agree...It's been done for decades now, and literally thousands of C-notched hotrods and trucks running around...If you box the frame in the area of the C notch with thicker steel plate, and you are a competent welder, you will not have issues.
All these people complaining about it being lowered…it’s just metal! Can always be put back if the next owner doesn’t like it. Personally, if it doesn’t spark going down the street it needs to go lower!
He explained how the old shop would be utilized vs the new. The Chevelle is a much bigger project so it will be moved to the new shop at some point since he has the benefit of space, the lift, tools, etc.
Nice work. I started with the stock springs and then found that TCI made a set that moved the perches closer to the frame and also had a more modern type of leaf spring. Gave me more clearance for the wheel/tire. Just a thought.
Put a tri-five rear end and leaf springs under the truck mounted to the bottom side of the fraim like a tri-five, and it'll give you the drop and you won't need the C notch...
Dan, If you were to draw it on a chart, you would find that the axle relocation that you did lowered it by the thickness of the spring plus a full axle housing diameter plus two perch thicknesses. As soon as you said "by a spring thickness", I knew you'd be surprised. Oh well, coil-overs will pick it back up a little if you want it. Nice job so far!
Also on the welding cart should have a spot to store welding gloves or high temp gloves watch UA-cam videos order him real welding gloves those are for construction or gardening. Let’s keep him safe, both welding carts need to have them Also at the welding supply store there are plastic shut off valve that confirms if the tank is off for safety and doesn’t leak all night
Great work Dan.. I have been a first Gen Raptor owner for 12 years, There is nothing better.. some things that might help. A. install a pedal commander, that will remove all lag B. install a set of helper springs on the front side of the rear springs.. gets rid of the nasty wheel hop. C. I had to get my rockers replaced because of those AMP research running boards.. they hold onto the snow/ice/salt and grind it in every time you open the door. D. The 5 lights on the front and back are because the truck is so wide it is classified as commercial and requires them to be sold. ( that's why Raptor guys are pissed when other trucks put them on) E. And I can only get about 40,000 miles before the front shocks start leaking.
Dan, order a new cylinder for the engine hoist. They're less than the seal kit for the cylinders off of Amazon. Makes no sense, but that's just how it is. Love the builds and you guys!!
I wasf able to take my spring mounts apart easily. Both front and rear, 1 small pin in front and the spring pin slid out. The rear was 1 shackle bolt and it fell apart. They had been well greased tho and were not worn.
Was smearing some Bondo on my Camaro replacement panel , my dad walks up and says thats the ticket , smear it with mud and spray it with tractor paint LOL , Keep the vids coming Dan
I had to flip my rear shackles also to have enough clearance for rearend movement. If you flip the rear shackles you have to grind out the inside of the rear spring mount.
Another front susp.that werks great is 73 to 87 gm pu .its almost a bolt in system ,ifs, disc brakes ps, and drop spindles and springs are easily aquired.
Putting the axle on top of the springs will drop the rear 5 or 6 inches,the spring pak thickness and diameter of axle tube..i have built 5 of these trucks.3 of them i used camaro subframes on.they werk great as it gives you motor and trans mount which you can buy headers for.
Wow! Wax and polish on a previous video, and now body work and no gorilla glob welds! Dan admitted he is getting a little older when he picked up the Monte Carlo, and now he is channeling his inner Mur! 😂👍👍
I'm sure you're already past this point but I'm going to say it anyway. If the frame isn't broke don't fix it. Those notches have screwed up more trucks than they have ever helped. If you don't believe me. Ask your criminal friend Mortske. About that striker, My X-ray vision only works on the things I'm looking for, too.😊😊😊
You should have put the notch in from the backside and you would have had the plating done on the frame you should move the springs inside the frame so you could fit some big meaty tires on the back
Dan i would box atleast 1 foot of the frame in atleast the front of your notch on the inside of the frame rails. Behind the notch would be a good idea also, atleast 6". You're gonna wind up putting alteast 2-3 motors/transmissions back there at a time, lets be real here.
День тому
That Monte is a great car like those we used to work om
Dan if you cut a cross in the top of the rivets with a zip disk then you can use an air chisel to pop the hesd pieces off the a punch die on your rivet gun and pop the the bodies through. Check out Mike Bellos at Bello's Kustoms it work slick...
One step at a time. If I had the choice, I'd get most of the green off to expose more yellow uniformally. More distressed yellow with patches of green. I'm sure what you do will be an eye catcher.
Have you considered an s10 chassis swap? Better brakes, steering, and ride quality. It would give you that lower stance. Plus, parts are more plentiful and can be bought at any auto store when replacement is needed. Just a thought.
Ok dan, you have now painted 1/4th of the frame, might as well finish painting it. I do have a idea. Your gonna be away on bissiness. Have dani bring over a few girlfriends and have them knock the rust off and paint the frame . Looks better, protects it way longer and more content for the channel. Still like dani after dark as a thumb nail. She is the schmoo queen. Go dani go! ( Dan I know you live in Canada. If your gonna poke the bear , make sure you can outrun it and you got a cot pillow and sleeping bag in the shop. May have to spend the night there. Mini fridge and microwave will help also.😂)
Young man, it’s your shit! Do whatever makes y’all happy!
I love the fact that Dan has that can do attitude and nothing is too difficult. He is not building show cars, but he is enjoying what he does, and I enjoy watching him and getting inspiration for whatever I'm doing to my old cars and truck.
@@elijah2078 he builds it to drive it.. No complaints here.
Great job Dan, I am rebuilding the same truck, got a 5.3 to go into it. I put a Camaro 10" in the rear with 307 gears, I elected to put a triangulated 4 link, removes all that bullshit you're dealing with there. Best decision I made it. C-notched it as well, built my own out of a chunk of 5" round drill pipe. Installed a tank behind the diff and grafted a Camaor clip to the front. Just dealing with that now, Lots of work!
The F Body front frame is so versatile. I've used them in many different cars and trucks. And there are loads of aftermarket performance parts available for them. Pretty cheap too. Almost like companies are trying to unload all their old stock. Just watching Dan weld up that back I was thinking, Why not just use a piece of pipe or a chunk of square tube. But hey, to each their own.
I worked on used commercial trucks doing frame extensions and yes you can weld on a truck frame. I also installed highway snowplow hitches on dump trucks. Yes you can weld on truck frames.AL B.
We can count on Dan to make even the sketchiest job turn out really well. 🙂
Nice work, Dan!! If only Dani hadn’t misplaced the sander, think how much more you could’ve done 😂😂😂
Here is where Dan realizes that it’s not only the height of the leaf spring but also the height of the axle also flipping the axle will lower the truck
Yea that’s a 6” drop
my aunt and uncle had a brand new 70 Monte Carlo back in the 70s Man it was nice.
That was really something to watch. DD Speed Shop at its finest. Looks great. Cheers!! 😊
Not only is your shop much cleaner but so is your work! 👍😎
😂😂
I having a hard time watching Dan in such a clean environment. It just seems like he's working in someone else's shop.
It's coming together great Dan. Loving this build so far 👍
Hey Daniel please note put a magnet on the torch cart Get a key ring (like in your keys) get a long thin chain from the hardware store
The magnet will hold 2 strikers the primary has a chain connected to it
So he never losses it
great show today enjoyed it, I did a 58 small window short box solid except for cab corners…, I did a frame rail swap cut them and rewelded them side to side put the leafs on the inside put massive tires on 69 camaro front clip…used the rear end in my 57 black widow clone… loved that truck sold it like an idiot..
The truck is looking good, bodywork is impressive.
Keep the good guys,
❄️
🌱
It’s gonna be sick looking sitting that low!! I’m diggin’ it!! It will still have a rake once the motor is in, and you can still use the bed for truck stuff. Good C-notch job!
Fiberglass is how I fixed the rotted out eyebrows on my '56 Chevy truck in 1985. I used expanding spray foam in the holes. I cut off the excess that was poking through the holes on top and sculped it to match the fender contour. Then I laid fiberglass mat over the eyebrow. Then bondo, sand, and paint.
Much better low 👍 she’s looking good now brother !
Amazon has spray on Frame notch in 24 oz cans.
You tell him ...Mike's are very much appreciated ....Thank you
When the torch comes out, sh!t is about to go down.
My inner engineer always cringes at the loss of frame rail stiffness when those c-notches are installed. It is not quite so bad when coil springs and 4-links or long trailing arms are used because the back of the frame past the notch does not see driving loads, only cargo weight. C-notches destroy towing capacity regardless of the suspension used. Frame rail stiffness is calculated from BH^3/12 where B is the width and H is the cross section height. An under axle "bridge" made from tubing would restore the "section property" but I have yet to see any hot rodder make the effort. Oval track race cars use what is in effect a bridge structure around the rear axle for the same reason.
Well put , and I agree
Can't that be addressed by using thicker steel for the C notch?
@@my31and37 No. The thickness is the "B" and it is only involved to the single power. Think about a 2x8 rather in a garage roof. If you cut a portion down to 3 inches wide, the roof sags. Bracing it with 2x4s only helps a little bit. You can drill a big hole thru the 2x8 and hardly effect the roof at all because the "H" is still there. This is why frame rails are shaped the way they are. BTW, boxing a frame doubles "H" and that is why the frame is so much stiffer.
I have to agree. I would never do that to a frame. He has created the worst possible situation here. The notch is halfway in between the front spring mount and the rear spring mount, and the axle and wheel/tire are right in the middle. Every time it hits a bump, both the front and rear of the spring are going to push upward on the frame, concentrating stress right in the middle, which is the weakest point, right where that notch is. Over time, fatigue will weaken it even further, and it will start to develop cracks. I used to know someone that actually happened to, only it was a motorcycle, not a car/truck. He built a "bobber" out of his motorcycle, and wanted to lower the rear. He eliminated the shocks and replaced them with shorter struts. Some motorcycles have the bottom of the shock mounted right at the rear of the swing arm, creating a triangulated structure. But this one had the lower shock mount right in the middle of the swing arm, halfway between the rear axle and the front swing arm pivot. So every time the rear wheel hit a bump, all the force was directed into the center of the swing arm, just below the strut. The shocks had enough give to absorb a lot of that stress, but the solid strut didn't. It basically created a fulcrum point right below the lower shock mount, and sure enough, the swing arm buckled right at that point. Only one side actually broke, causing him to crash. The other side was bent and cracked at the same place. Fortunately he was not seriously injured. On this truck, most of the force is going to come from the rear spring mount, and is going to push up on the rear of the frame, slowly weakening it where that notch is, until it finally breaks.
Nah...can't agree...It's been done for decades now, and literally thousands of C-notched hotrods and trucks running around...If you box the frame in the area of the C notch with thicker steel plate, and you are a competent welder, you will not have issues.
I'm glad your lowering it I'm trying to figure out how to do my 55 panel and this is a big help
All these people complaining about it being lowered…it’s just metal! Can always be put back if the next owner doesn’t like it. Personally, if it doesn’t spark going down the street it needs to go lower!
Cant wait to see you build that chevelle. At your old shop
He explained how the old shop would be utilized vs the new. The Chevelle is a much bigger project so it will be moved to the new shop at some point since he has the benefit of space, the lift, tools, etc.
"All my friends know the low rider" "The low rider is a little higher" "Take a little trip, take a little trip,
Take a little trip and see".
Nice work. I started with the stock springs and then found that TCI made a set that moved the perches closer to the frame and also had a more modern type of leaf spring. Gave me more clearance for the wheel/tire. Just a thought.
Put a tri-five rear end and leaf springs under the truck mounted to the bottom side of the fraim like a tri-five, and it'll give you the drop and you won't need the C notch...
Dan, If you were to draw it on a chart, you would find that the axle relocation that you did lowered it by the thickness of the spring plus a full axle housing diameter plus two perch thicknesses. As soon as you said "by a spring thickness", I knew you'd be surprised. Oh well, coil-overs will pick it back up a little if you want it. Nice job so far!
Also on the welding cart should have a spot to store welding gloves or high temp gloves watch UA-cam videos order him real welding gloves those are for construction or gardening. Let’s keep him safe, both welding carts need to have them
Also at the welding supply store there are plastic shut off valve that confirms if the tank is off for safety and doesn’t leak all night
Great work Dan.. I have been a first Gen Raptor owner for 12 years, There is nothing better.. some things that might help.
A. install a pedal commander, that will remove all lag
B. install a set of helper springs on the front side of the rear springs.. gets rid of the nasty wheel hop.
C. I had to get my rockers replaced because of those AMP research running boards.. they hold onto the snow/ice/salt and grind it in every time you open the door.
D. The 5 lights on the front and back are because the truck is so wide it is classified as commercial and requires them to be sold.
( that's why Raptor guys are pissed when other trucks put them on)
E. And I can only get about 40,000 miles before the front shocks start leaking.
So Dan . Looks like 5 projects going on ? Don't think you have time to get Bored? Just keep your nuts & bolts together 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎
Hey Dan&Dannie
Looking good😎
Take care😊
Thanks for another , Brother !
Awesome job. On your Chevy truck. Your getting the hang of it. Keep up the great work.
i got new pins and bushings from Scott"s. the bushings are supposed to be greased every thousand miles according to the manual.
Flipping out on the ‘56! Love it!!
DD Hack Shop. Make it the way you want it to be. 🇨🇦
Digging this old truck
Now we know who notched Mortske's whistle pig.
Hi Dan and Daniel hope you are having a great day keep up the good work and make sure it's done right. God bless and have a blessed evening and night
Dan, order a new cylinder for the engine hoist. They're less than the seal kit for the cylinders off of Amazon. Makes no sense, but that's just how it is. Love the builds and you guys!!
On the fender cut out for a spare, if it were cut out and flipped would it fill in the gap?
Coming along great dan, its going to look rade.
I wasf able to take my spring mounts apart easily. Both front and rear, 1 small pin in front and the spring pin slid out. The rear was 1 shackle bolt and it fell apart. They had been well greased tho and were not worn.
Dano you need to clean the paint off before applying bondo if you want it ti stick
Was smearing some Bondo on my Camaro replacement panel , my dad walks up and says thats the ticket , smear it with mud and spray it with tractor paint LOL , Keep the vids coming Dan
I had to flip my rear shackles also to have enough clearance for rearend movement. If you flip the rear shackles you have to grind out the inside of the rear spring mount.
Another front susp.that werks great is 73 to 87 gm pu .its almost a bolt in system ,ifs, disc brakes ps, and drop spindles and springs are easily aquired.
Hey Dan nice job on the frame
Putting the axle on top of the springs will drop the rear 5 or 6 inches,the spring pak thickness and diameter of axle tube..i have built 5 of these trucks.3 of them i used camaro subframes on.they werk great as it gives you motor and trans mount which you can buy headers for.
Dan if you had a longer 2x4 to lay across your air jack on the lift you could have still used it to lift the frame ahead of the leaf mounts
Should be able to get new bushings for the spring eyes.
Dan, please show us how to set the pinion angle when you reassemble the rear suspension.
Keep up the cool builds!
put an angle finder on the driveshaft mount,2 degrees down or so is decent.......
Wow! Wax and polish on a previous video, and now body work and no gorilla glob welds! Dan admitted he is getting a little older when he picked up the Monte Carlo, and now he is channeling his inner Mur! 😂👍👍
I'm sure you're already past this point but I'm going to say it anyway. If the frame isn't broke don't fix it. Those notches have screwed up more trucks than they have ever helped. If you don't believe me. Ask your criminal friend Mortske. About that striker, My X-ray vision only works on the things I'm looking for, too.😊😊😊
Over Sized Tip always warms them up Faster ?
You should have put the notch in from the backside and you would have had the plating done on the frame you should move the springs inside the frame so you could fit some big meaty tires on the back
Dan i would box atleast 1 foot of the frame in atleast the front of your notch on the inside of the frame rails. Behind the notch would be a good idea also, atleast 6". You're gonna wind up putting alteast 2-3 motors/transmissions back there at a time, lets be real here.
That Monte is a great car like those we used to work om
Dan if you cut a cross in the top of the rivets with a zip disk then you can use an air chisel to pop the hesd pieces off the a punch die on your rivet gun and pop the the bodies through. Check out Mike Bellos at Bello's Kustoms it work slick...
Hey I like that Tri five truck you need do more of them fits in with your cars
Looks good Dan and Dani very nice work
Hey Dan , if you change the shackles , upgrade to the 58,59, they are much safer
30:03 I’m telling you firsthand I had a static drop S 10 she was a sweet little unit but static drop and these Alberta roads do not mix
Why not use the cutting head part of the torch? Just asking....
Hay can you take the front part of the sam year of car finder and grafted it on the truck finders
Great video guys. Any chance you can add an "In my defense" shirt or hoodie to your merch? Also, Dan, I love the Monte Carlo.
Looks good. I like original, but the low look is cool. keep it up I can hardly wait to see it done.
Looks good ...a lot brighter in the shop now eh?
Truck looks much better and I wouldn't worry about the height the motor and trans should bring it down 👍
One step at a time. If I had the choice, I'd get most of the green off to expose more yellow uniformally. More distressed yellow with patches of green. I'm sure what you do will be an eye catcher.
Dan, I got a quick question for you. Why did you take the shackle off of the frame rather than take the leaf spring loose from the shackle?
Have you considered an s10 chassis swap? Better brakes, steering, and ride quality. It would give you that lower stance. Plus, parts are more plentiful and can be bought at any auto store when replacement is needed. Just a thought.
Hell yaaaaaaaaaa brotha, looking Awesome, gona be bad ass ,version kool ride 😎
LOOSEY GOOSEY is an understatement your bee a smile a minute
You know you are in trouble, Dan, when you hear your full name spoken. Better apologize.
And I thought Dannie didn’t want to lower it🤔
Speedway sells individual link bars at a decent price.
It’s a wonder the cab didn’t have a matching dent from the bed ?
Dan you be the cameraman and let Ms Dani do the body work it's her truck🤙🏻
Come on Dan a junk yard has to have many Camaro Rear end . Do it Right make Mur Proud
You could cut a half coil out of the front once you set the motor and tranny in. Be nice to Danielle,she is a sweet woman with a big heart.
The front is a straight axle, not coil spring but it is a trick drop spindle setup.
According to Dan everything's a hot rod
Hot rod is also a verb
Hey dani how bout a vid of you singing and playing the guitar for a change be awesome
Are those rear shackles supposed to be that way up? It looks like they'll bind
Dave here, the wife and I get a kick out of the comments section 😂😂
Drift punch Dan drift punches!!
My cleaning lady doesn't clean my garage either. 😂
Man up !! You owe Danielle an apology !
Its yours to do with as you PLEASE 😊
I love this channel but being rude to Dani (you’re in my way) is really off putting.
Be cool bro!
❄️
🌱
Don't believe in lowering anything. But to each his own!
Why didn't you remove the rear shackle it looks less complicated
The Wandering Tool Cart ?
Wait. Are we lowering this truck now? I thought this was discussed.
Do you bend at the waist anymore since you got the lift😅
Ok dan, you have now painted 1/4th of the frame, might as well finish painting it. I do have a idea. Your gonna be away on bissiness. Have dani bring over a few girlfriends and have them knock the rust off and paint the frame . Looks better, protects it way longer and more content for the channel. Still like dani after dark as a thumb nail. She is the schmoo queen. Go dani go! ( Dan I know you live in Canada. If your gonna poke the bear , make sure you can outrun it and you got a cot pillow and sleeping bag in the shop. May have to spend the night there. Mini fridge and microwave will help also.😂)
Very kool ride 😎
And away we goooo!😂
You need to loose a few of the leafs looks like heavy duty
Good job looking good