Rancher 350 Engine Rebuild
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- Опубліковано 19 вер 2024
- This is the engine assembly video on a 2003 Honda Rancher 350. This is a 2 wheel drive es model. This procedure is the same as the manual shift model as well as the four wheel drive model with exception to the front output shaft. This is the same engine that was used in all of the 350 models, even the newer body style 350 ranchers. I'm sorry for the deleted section of the video showing the cylinder and piston installation. I just realized it wasn't in there so next time I have another 350 in the shop, I will make a complete video. Links to the parts used below. #ad
Engine Removal Video
• Rancher 350 engine rem...
Engine disassembly Video
• Honda Rancher 350 Engi...
Links to the parts used
Crankshaft
alnk.to/cHJvdpj
Gray RTV
amzn.to/3GsrFFK
Stator Cover Gasket
alnk.to/fwnCUEv
Oil pump (4 separate rotors)
alnk.to/fSd8Slx
alnk.to/7BbwM0W
alnk.to/caZeheU
alnk.to/6bRsVwi
Clutch and one way bearing
ebay.us/PSExa1
Valve Spring Compressor
amzn.to/3GqHOeS
Valve Seals
alnk.to/7fm0OEK
Cylinder and piston Kit
ebay.us/1Tjs2g
Really appreciate the opportunity to watch and remember a lot of things I'd forgotten.
You are the absolute best on UA-cam. Straight to the point, no editing even when there's a problem, and very detailed. You are more valuable than you realize. Thank you so much for all of your videos!!!!!
Thanks and thanks for watching. I try to show it as I find it.
Good easy to learn video some people can't teach you can lol
@@Troy-f2h thanks and glad I could help
Good video, just got my new shift drum in, probably do piston since its all apart
Awesome video, plenty of top end videos but it’s hard to come by a video including the bottom end for the 350. Kudos
Thanks and thanks for watching
Thank you sir for the video. Finally finished my 350 rancher today
Good deal. I hope everything went good.
@@FourwheelerDoctor everything went perfect. I bought this rancher with a bad motor and rebuilt it with help from your videos. I do have a question though. The previous owner grounded the temp sensor wire to the motor to make the fan stay on constantly. Will that make the oil temp light on the dash stay on constantly as well? Or do I have a different problem?
@@dustinyeager9016 yes it will make the oil light stay on all the time if it's grounded out.
I have a 2000 foreman 450. Do you know where I can find a bottom end kit for it. I can't seem to find a crank anywhere
@@dustinyeager9016 those are getting harder and harder to find. The last one I ordered was a while ago and it took forever to come in. Check out Mrcrankshaft.com. I've had him rebuild some for me before and they work out perfect had a pretty good price.
Been watching alot of these, havent figured it out yet but ive learned alot from you! Appreciate you taking the time to post these!
Thankyou for your time Sir, this is an awesome tutorial
Thanks and thanks for watching
So I was tearing down 2 motors, the other one had a bearing on the shift drum, like the one that butts up to the neutral switch sensor. the two were diffrent crank case. so I knocked the bearing out to put in the shift drum. and the concerns me.
Well, add me to the list of people who didn't get the sensor aligned properly. I watched this video first, carefully pointed the long side towards the N, confirmed the gearshift was in neutral. FmL.
Symptoms are no neutral light on when in neutral, gear display is all over the place and inconsistent with actual gear it's in.
That stinks. I can't say I have gotten it right every time myself.
I need to replace my shifter spindle (it’s stripped, and the seal is leaking). Do you have any info on how to do that?
Should it be in gear after putting everything back together made sure I put trans back together and aligned the flat head piece on the shifter drum
I can't get my front cover back on all the way.. tried everything.. it's only about an 1/8 on an inch..so close but will not go back on!
About to do a bottom end rebuild on my 01 350 rancher should I stay away from aftermarket kits such as hot rods or wrench rabbit ?
Yesss I was wondering when u would do the rancher
Thanks for watching!!
When u put the motor all back together are tou able to put it back inside the frame of the rancher 350
Man I don't have the brains to do this stuff, but I'm starting to realize why my mechanic is charging me so much. So difficult
There are a bunch of steps and I make it look easy because I have done a few but but still nothing a diyer with a few tools can accomplish.
Ever use one of the wrench rabbit kits on these? Got a noise coming from bottom end. Pretty sure it's from the bottom end. I've adjusted valves multiple times. The clatter comes and goes through the rpm range.
Comes with a hot Rods crank
Great video, I have a question about the change clutch, I bought a 2006 honda 350 4x4 FM with only 2700 km on it mint condition but it sat in a non heated building for about two years. The change clutches were stuck so I was told to put it in high gear, lift up on the shifter and rev the engine to break them clear after they broke clear I was told to lift the shifter until it slipped a bit to clean the plates. That worked, but every time it sat it would stick again. So I pulled the clutches and they had a bit of rust on them , so I cleaned them off with a really fine paper, put it back together it worked fine , but if it sits for a couple days it still sticks a bit, once it breaks free you can ride it all day without an issue. Something is just nor right, I should have put new plates and friction discs when I had it apart but guy at Honda said nah they look ok. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks Barry
Brilliant video and commentary.
I have a 2004 Rancher 350FM with the motor still in the frame. I as replacing the swingers bearings and noticed the output shaft in the rear crankcase cover offset from centre and has torn the oil seal apart so oil has been leaking into the rear driveshaft boot. I find I can move the output shaft to centre it but I would have thought it should always be centred. I prised out the oil seal and expected there to be a bearing behind it in the rear crankcase cover and thought it might be damaged. Is there a bearing there? I can't make out if there is supposed to be one there or not from the parts diagram. Have you experienced this problem and if it is a bearing issue can it be replaced with the motor still in the frame?
I have a 350 rancher es 4x4 i have took apart 8 times and ever time green light is on but its in first gear thats all it has please help me
Can someone tell me what im doing wrong
Dude, thank you!
Thanks for watching
Subscribed, thank you for these videos!
Awesome video, I’m about to rebuild a 2006 that still runs decent but was ran low on oil so now it knocks. Is there any wear i should look out for since it was run low?
Most of these that were run low have a damaged piston pin. Make sure you check it.
Subscribed my 350 was supposed to be rebuild and started blowing white smoke don't know why but can't change oil have to tilt bike because it will break if bolt takes out. Any advice on white smoke.
Are you getting oil in the airbox?
hey man, enjoy your stuff. thanks for sharing. One question, Have you replaced the shift plate in a 350 Rancher ES without pulling the engine? I hear you can do this in frame but I would think it would be a lot more of a headache. Do you have to pull both clutches or can you sneak in out and back in without too much of a PITA?
Thanks again
Cheers from Louisiana.
If by the shift plate you talking about that plate behind the front cover that often breaks on them, yes you can replace it without pulling the engine. It's not very hard to do but you do have to pull the clutches.
Hi doc got a good deal on 01 350rancher Es it was stored inside, only 1200 miles on it pretty will mint but it wouldn’t shift, replaced angle sensor and broken gears for shift motor. I also replaced star piece on shift drum and shift plate. It changes gears now perfect 98% of the time,but sometimes it won’t shift at all. I’m sure it must be the change Clutch have tried to adjust many times but just can’t seem to get it perfect. Did have it apart when I changed the shift plate and never noticed anything abnormal. I’ll take it out to my trapline in northern Canada and use it the way it is but it just bugs me that I can’t get it right. Any thoughts or seen any similar symptoms. Great videos thanks
Thanks for the great video, question on the centrifugal clutch and drum the clutch lining measure out good but the drum is grooved what do you recommend thanks
I have a clutch nut with out the tab does it make a difference with or without it
I have a 2003 honda rancher 350 when it in Neutral it going in Reverse when I gave it the gas to my at. Any Answers thank
4x2?
I think this was a two-wheel drive bike but the two and four wheel drive are ompletely identical with exception of a small short shaft that comes out the front of the motor to drive the front differential and a hole in the front cover for that shaft to go through. The 2 and 4 wheel drive bikes are basically interchangeable with exception of that shaft and that hole in the front cover.
Just too hard for me I'm not smart enough. I'm going to forget where to put things back and lose half the parts. This is not for noobs. I might risk the top end rebuild and pray I don't need to do this bottom end. Hope I don't have a bent rod because I heard an awful noise but the engine kept running and oil was very low.
How much does something like that cost to get done
Man thank you for your Videos!!! I need to replace the Centrifugal Clutch one way bearing but my clutch pads are pretty worn like the one in your video. Which aftermarket clutch do you buy for these?
I have had good luck with the caltrec brand off eBay
Subscribed! 😂
Do you have to separate the stator and it’s cover from the case cover or can you just remove the entire cover to access the engine? I believe I just need to get to the timing chain and it’s tensioner…. Don’t need to replace the stator it’s working perfectly.
You have to take the stator cover off first. There's a couple bolts on that cover that also hold the next cover on
@@FourwheelerDoctor Thank you sir! And I rewatched your video and you covered that I just missed it... I will order the gasket along with the fly wheel puller and whatever else I need once I get everything down. Valves are adjusted per your videos and it got quieter but still making noise. No loss of power, starts easy, no smoke, oil looks fine etc. Should just be the chain or the tensioner I hope.
@@1972bcain the tensioners are pretty tough and very seldom give trouble on these bikes so more than likely it's the chain
Update- it was not the timing chain, sigh. Connecting rod eye is wollered out and wrist pin has a lot of play causing all the noise as the piston slips around…. Cylinder wall and piston are showing wear. Ordered new crankshaft, rod, piston, cylinder, gaskets etc…. Big thank you for your 350 Rancher playlist Sir! Taking the edge of being nervous about this big of a rebuild.
Is it hard to replace a one-way bearing on one
Not too hard. Just have to pull the front cover and clutch off.
need to pick your brain again , I have a 02 350 rancher ES with a meter that you cant read to get codes, Problem is every time you shift to a gear its a second or so delay before it shifts and it jerks every shift because of it , I adjusted the clutch got that out of it now it will only shift neutral to 1st and back i cant get the fine line in between , havent pull it apart yet , but thinking it might be the shift return spring weak , any thoughts or ideas from past repairs? Its also has one of those aftermarket sensor bypass kits on it for shifting not sure if that comes into play or not , Appreciate any help you could pass along Thanks , using the Manuel shifter it feels mushy like it doesn't want to return to catch the next gear
Sound like it's probably either a weak shift motor or that shift return spring like you said. The aftermarket relays that makes them shift bypassing all the sensors so the only leaves the shift motor and the buttons. I've also taken apart and cleaned the grease out of the shift gears behind the shift motor because sometimes that old grease will get hard and real sticky and will make them bind up too.
@@FourwheelerDoctor Thanks for your reply your channel has really helped out , I keep 5 hondas for the kids to ride , So something is always broke down , They ride them hard ,I finally had time when i got in last night to stand it on end and pull it apart , The spring loaded arm on the star was bent down under it somehow so the roller wasnt making contact with the star , that was the only thing i found , i'll stick it back together today hopefully that was it, everything else looked fine , i did stick a new shift motor on it i had on the shelf as well , was hoping to find something broken or worn out , I just picked it up cheap for my grandson , with the front axels worn out ball joints shot and boots torn, so have all that to replace , Again Thank you very much
@@jasonhorton4798 glad I could help. Make sure that 10 mm bolt in the center of the star piece is tight. I've had them back out before. It doesn't hurt to put some lock tight on it before you put it back together.
🤣🤣🤣 I love your shirt
Thanks man. I have some good ones.
Do you exclusively only work on Honda?
Not really. I really work on anything but it just seems like most folks around here have Honda's so that's what I end up working on. I also have done a bunch of motors in them so I can about do them with my eyes closed.
@@FourwheelerDoctor Where are you located and what do you charge to rebuild a motor? My '02 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4X4 that I got in March, slips out of gears sometimes and I bought the transmission gears off of Ebay a couple of months ago
@@rickfink464 I'm located in south Carolina
@@FourwheelerDoctor I live in West Virginia, but my dad lives in Cheraw, SC and I lived in NC for 12 years near the border of SC, so I'm pretty familiar with the area
I have the Yamaha factory service manual for my 4 wheeler by the way
Mine is manual shift and all the same in the flywheel side infact all the same baring the stupid electric shift motor, some good tips for noobs here like but why buy a whole crank wen a rod is 1/120 and 30 min work probs a 1/4 of price of crank should have left oil pump alone used the time on crank and save probs half your bill can only guess u dont mind spending customer money or lack the skill n tools to do rod alone
Really like your videos! BUT……..Dude….. You left some stuff out! I had to pull my shit back apart to put the parts back in just like you did when you shut the camera off and came back on for the next step…… Figure out how to edit the missed parts in.
If you don't mind me asking which part did I skip? I don't even remember me doing it. I'll see if I can edit it in or put text in to explain. That's the thing that stinks about UA-cam videos is you can't add sections to them once they are uploaded without uploading an entire new video. Which I may do that if I need to.