Wonderfully easy. as an ambidextrous knitter (Continental/English) I appreciate both tension abilities placing the new yarn and working through those stitches.
Thank you so much for showing both methods. I knit the English method and it is so frustrating that most videos I find only show the continental method, and I am not able to switch hands after all these years so I appreciate it very much.
I have come back to this video often, it is so good. I would love to see the weaving in of the tail in the opposite direction after crossing the first and weaving to the right. It is so plain how that is done, and less so in the opposite direction, which feels more awkward to me. I have practiced and can do it, but would love to see your expert technique. Thanks for all you do.
I’ve been struggling with this on a project of mine where I’m using up a bunch of yarn from frogged projects. This is the best, cleanest, most effective method I’ve come across. Thank you. I tried it in English method and it works like a charm!
such a good video, I've never done this before but many a time I've run out of yarn in the middle of a row....and felt like screaming, now I can try this. Thank you Roxanne so much
Thanks for this video. When I join a new ball of the same color, I overlap for 5 sts or so as you demonstrated. But then I always weave in the ends, as well. I am so happy to hear that I can just trim them instead!!! You have saved me a lot of time.
I really appreciated the two-color-join method. I'd seen something on one of your other videos that made me think there was such a thing. When I was a new knitter, they told me not to do this. I'm taking my advice from you now.
Great lesson. It was very nice to meet you on Saturday at Shepard's Harvest. I am still working on getting the ribbon for the button band on my sweater and will send you a picture when I get it done. Did you decided if you are going to give spinning a try. I think you will love it. I sure do. Look forward to meeting you again someday. Love your videos thank you for taking the time to make them.
It was great to meet you, too! I am all signed up for Beginning SPinning at the Textile Center, in June! (the Weavers Guild runs those classes), and I have been watching videos to learn how it works. I have spent so much time avoiding it that I have a lot to catch up on! Meanwhile, I'm trying to figure out which LYS might carry a drop spindle, so I can get the hang of what drafting wool feels like. I knew this would happen...
I got my drop spindle from the woolery. I wanted to try that before I spent big money on a wheel. I made a woven scarf from the yarn and I just love it still. Good luck with the spinning lessons.
I stopped by StevenBe last night and bought a drop spindle and some roving. Still haven't tried it out yet, but hope to this evening. The Weavers Guild has a spinning studio with lots of spinning wheels, so I will be able to check one out during the class, in order to practice at home. I hope to have a clearer idea of what sort of wheel I will want to buy once the class is over.
Thanks for the video Roxanne! Would you be willing to share more about the woven join? I’m not finding anything on it either online or in my knitting books. Does it go by another name perhaps?
Is there something specific that you would like to know that wasn't explained? The technique is often used to trap floats in stranded colorwork every other st or two (rather than only trapping if the float is spanning more than an inch of sts across the back) and is referred to as weaving the floats in that situation. Here's a video using the technique in that scenario: ua-cam.com/video/HIsOFIe415k/v-deo.html
This tutorial is so clear and helpful as always. The needles you are working with are beautiful May I ask if you have an interchangeable set you would recommend? having a horrid time deciding on one. Thank you for any advice
The best way to decide on an interchangeable set is to buy some tips and cords from a couple of different brands and try them out. You often don't have to buy a complete set. Think about the material you like to knit with (metal vs bamboo vs laminated wood, for example), and the type of taper you prefer (long, short, blunt, pointy), as well as the length of the tips, themselves. The needles I was using in that video were 32'' fixed-length circs from Signature Needle Arts. They don't make those anymore, they make interchangeable tips that work with specific cables. For each tip size, you buy a different set of cables. Since I use 32'' circs for knitting everything, and swap out the technique I use, rather than change the cord length, I actually prefer fixed length circs, but I do have some interchangeable sets. I almost always have them on cords that produce a 32'' circ. I prefer 5'' metal tips with long, pointy tapers. These will produce a circular needle 24'' in length on up (they're the standard tip size), but some people like 4'' tips because they can then make a 16'' circular out of them. I don't use/like 16'' circs, mostly because my knitting style needs at least a 5'' tip. So there are lots of things to think about, which is why it's a good idea to try before you buy. Having said that, I really like my Chiaogoo interchangeable set. They offer a variety of tip lengths and materials, and their cords are great.
I used this method while knitting a stockinette body with Cloud Highland wool worsted yarn with firm stitching. When I finished another row the right side showed a dip where the hidden strand was located. I tried stretching to see if it would look even on the front but it continued looking like a groove. How can this be fixed?
Good tips. You may want to check out VeryPinks tutorial 'weaving in ends'. She has a method that does not add bulk to the front of the work. I like your tips as well, might just depend on the project, to decide how to do it.
I took a look at her method, and as I suspected, she is demonstrating a method for trapping the tails that is sometimes used in stranded colorwork to weave/trap the carried/trailing yarn. It works in garter stitch because of the ridges. The row of sts where the tails are woven in is in a garter stitch valley. In stockinette stitch, which is flat, the contrast yarn tail would peek through a bit on the RS, and the alternating knit, trap, knit sts would vary in size. There are lots of ways to deal with yarn tails because there are so many combinations of stitch patterns, fiber, and project construction methods. No one method is likely to work well in all situations, which is why it's a good idea to know several methods, so you can pick the one best suited to the project at hand.
What about joining a new ball of yarn in the same colour, that is bulky/#5? I am knitting a stocking stitch sweater in the round; English knitting. Would I still knit the two strands together? Or would that make a stitch that is way too bulky. The yarn is a 50% nylon, 50% acrylic... :-)
I would use reverse duplicate stitch, instead, and would probably split the plies, as well, in order to avoid the bulk. I have several videos on weaving in yarn tails, including one on reverse duplicate stitch.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you Roxanne! I just watched your video & it's exactly what I want & need. Question, if I am splitting the plies, both sides will have two ends. As in the hole in your example--the white one--I will end up with four ends. Would I just use weave one side up & another down on one side of the hole & do the same thing on the second side of the hole? I have a hole from two different balls as in your example. :-)
Yep, you'll have more ends to weave in, but that's the price you pay when working with bulky yarns. Try weaving in one of the tails without splitting the plies, to see if it will work without being too obvious. If it doesn't work, then you will know to split the plies.
No idea. When I was in the program, they recommended reverse duplicate stitch, so that's what I used in most cases. For stranded colorwork, I used another method. Not all knitters strive for the results required in the MHK program, and prefer a process that deals with ends as they go. You might try asking in the TKGA forum on Ravelry.
If you're going to be seaming the edge, I'd leave them hanging and weave them into the seam. If the edge is going to remain exposed, I'd change a few sts away from the edge, so that you don't interrupt the flow of the selvedge.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you. I've watched several of your videos and I'm amazed how talented you are. Pretty incredible. I just started knitting a couple of week ago and so far have knitted 4 scarves. Next is a cowl after my circular needles arrive. I bought ChiaoGoo Red Lace Circular because they're supposed to not have curve memory. I bought Clover Takumi at my local Joanne's Fabrics but fighting the cord was a bit much and I didn't feel like doing the boiling cord "fix".
Thank you, Roxanne for sharing your techniques, us!! ❤
Wonderfully easy. as an ambidextrous knitter (Continental/English) I appreciate both tension abilities placing the new yarn and working through those stitches.
Thank you so much for showing both methods. I knit the English method and it is so frustrating that most videos I find only show the continental method, and I am not able to switch hands after all these years so I appreciate it very much.
For most techniques, the hand the yarn is held in makes no difference in how the technique is worked, but this is one of the exceptions!
Thank you so much for your tutorials.
You're an incredible teacher. I love learning from you, and I appreciate your time
You are so welcome!
I can second this! Thank you so much Roxanne for your wonderful work
I'm working with a worsted yarn, and I just tried this technique. It worked beautifully. One has to look very closely to "see" the join.
I have come back to this video often, it is so good. I would love to see the weaving in of the tail in the opposite direction after crossing the first and weaving to the right. It is so plain how that is done, and less so in the opposite direction, which feels more awkward to me. I have practiced and can do it, but would love to see your expert technique. Thanks for all you do.
I’ve been struggling with this on a project of mine where I’m using up a bunch of yarn from frogged projects. This is the best, cleanest, most effective method I’ve come across. Thank you. I tried it in English method and it works like a charm!
such a good video, I've never done this before but many a time I've run out of yarn in the middle of a row....and felt like screaming, now I can try this. Thank you Roxanne so much
Been searching for this video, overlap join, for hours. It's required for a project that I'll be doing. Thank You, God (& Roxanne). :))
Love 'Technique Tuesday' brilliant idea. Always helpful.
Thank you so much! This is invaluable knowledge. I'm a beginner and really needed this.
This was explained and demonstrated very well, thank you!
You're very welcome!
Thanks for this video. When I join a new ball of the same color, I overlap for 5 sts or so as you demonstrated. But then I always weave in the ends, as well. I am so happy to hear that I can just trim them instead!!! You have saved me a lot of time.
Jerry Dathe I was just going to write the same thing!
Where has this been all my life!? Thank you!
I really appreciated the two-color-join method. I'd seen something on one of your other videos that made me think there was such a thing. When I was a new knitter, they told me not to do this. I'm taking my advice from you now.
Thank you, this was very easy to follow with you clear explanation and video.
Dear Roxanne, could you please make a video showing how to join yarn if the purl side is our right side?
Great technique! Thanks for sharing!
Jus SUPERB. Thank you
Just what I need right now, thanks again Roxanne :-)
Thank you so much love this technique
Every REAL knitter has THE PRINCIPLES OF KNITTING...LOL. And "Knitting with no tears" .....I love er library. thank you.
I'll try this with Portuguese style knitting but I would need a much longer yarn tail 🥰
Thank you so much!
Great lesson. It was very nice to meet you on Saturday at Shepard's Harvest. I am still working on getting the ribbon for the button band on my sweater and will send you a picture when I get it done. Did you decided if you are going to give spinning a try. I think you will love it. I sure do. Look forward to meeting you again someday. Love your videos thank you for taking the time to make them.
It was great to meet you, too! I am all signed up for Beginning SPinning at the Textile Center, in June! (the Weavers Guild runs those classes), and I have been watching videos to learn how it works. I have spent so much time avoiding it that I have a lot to catch up on! Meanwhile, I'm trying to figure out which LYS might carry a drop spindle, so I can get the hang of what drafting wool feels like. I knew this would happen...
Roxanne Richardson oh no. Another craft! I have been avoiding spinning too.
I got my drop spindle from the woolery. I wanted to try that before I spent big money on a wheel. I made a woven scarf from the yarn and I just love it still. Good luck with the spinning lessons.
I stopped by StevenBe last night and bought a drop spindle and some roving. Still haven't tried it out yet, but hope to this evening. The Weavers Guild has a spinning studio with lots of spinning wheels, so I will be able to check one out during the class, in order to practice at home. I hope to have a clearer idea of what sort of wheel I will want to buy once the class is over.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to go off the deep end...
Good information..💜💜
Awesome..thank you..
I will stick to joining a new skein at an end of a row and weave the ends into the seam after seaming the piece. Far neater.
Have you tried using the Russian join method? That works great as well.
Thank you for the excellent video! Do you mind sharing where I might find a cool t-shirt like yours?
Good technique...however tried it with lightweight yarns like a summer shawl and you could really see the darker, heavier area???
You can always split the plies an weave each one along a different path to reduce the bulk.
Thanks for the video Roxanne! Would you be willing to share more about the woven join? I’m not finding anything on it either online or in my knitting books. Does it go by another name perhaps?
Is there something specific that you would like to know that wasn't explained? The technique is often used to trap floats in stranded colorwork every other st or two (rather than only trapping if the float is spanning more than an inch of sts across the back) and is referred to as weaving the floats in that situation. Here's a video using the technique in that scenario: ua-cam.com/video/HIsOFIe415k/v-deo.html
That answers my question, thanks so much! 🙏🏼
I am knitting a baby blanket in garter stitch so I do not have a right or wrong side. Will this technique work for my project
Sandy
Typically, you'll just have to choose a side that will serve as the WS, for the purposes of weaving in yarn tails.
Wonderful video as always. Now I'm wondering, what is the Russian join you mention near the end?
ua-cam.com/video/qWrh8VmTJug/v-deo.html This is my go to tutorial by Very Pink Knits.
This tutorial is so clear and helpful as always. The needles you are working with are beautiful
May I ask if you have an interchangeable set you would recommend? having a horrid time
deciding on one. Thank you for any advice
The best way to decide on an interchangeable set is to buy some tips and cords from a couple of different brands and try them out. You often don't have to buy a complete set. Think about the material you like to knit with (metal vs bamboo vs laminated wood, for example), and the type of taper you prefer (long, short, blunt, pointy), as well as the length of the tips, themselves. The needles I was using in that video were 32'' fixed-length circs from Signature Needle Arts. They don't make those anymore, they make interchangeable tips that work with specific cables. For each tip size, you buy a different set of cables. Since I use 32'' circs for knitting everything, and swap out the technique I use, rather than change the cord length, I actually prefer fixed length circs, but I do have some interchangeable sets. I almost always have them on cords that produce a 32'' circ. I prefer 5'' metal tips with long, pointy tapers. These will produce a circular needle 24'' in length on up (they're the standard tip size), but some people like 4'' tips because they can then make a 16'' circular out of them. I don't use/like 16'' circs, mostly because my knitting style needs at least a 5'' tip. So there are lots of things to think about, which is why it's a good idea to try before you buy. Having said that, I really like my Chiaogoo interchangeable set. They offer a variety of tip lengths and materials, and their cords are great.
Thank you for a very thoughtful and thorough reply.You have helped a great deal !!!!
Happiest of New years to you
Lisa M@@RoxanneRichardson
I used this method while knitting a stockinette body with Cloud Highland wool worsted yarn with firm stitching. When I finished another row the right side showed a dip where the hidden strand was located. I tried stretching to see if it would look even on the front but it continued looking like a groove. How can this be fixed?
Roxanne, is it possible to knit in tails as you go....in ribbing?
Good tips. You may want to check out VeryPinks tutorial 'weaving in ends'. She has a method that does not add bulk to the front of the work. I like your tips as well, might just depend on the project, to decide how to do it.
I took a look at her method, and as I suspected, she is demonstrating a method for trapping the tails that is sometimes used in stranded colorwork to weave/trap the carried/trailing yarn. It works in garter stitch because of the ridges. The row of sts where the tails are woven in is in a garter stitch valley. In stockinette stitch, which is flat, the contrast yarn tail would peek through a bit on the RS, and the alternating knit, trap, knit sts would vary in size. There are lots of ways to deal with yarn tails because there are so many combinations of stitch patterns, fiber, and project construction methods. No one method is likely to work well in all situations, which is why it's a good idea to know several methods, so you can pick the one best suited to the project at hand.
Roxanne Richardson agreed, thank you for the reply!
How about just start the new ball of yarn at the beginning of a new row?
That's not always possible (if, say, you're working in the round), and it's not always desirable (if the edges will remain exposed).
What about joining a new ball of yarn in the same colour, that is bulky/#5? I am knitting a stocking stitch sweater in the round; English knitting. Would I still knit the two strands together? Or would that make a stitch that is way too bulky. The yarn is a 50% nylon, 50% acrylic... :-)
I would use reverse duplicate stitch, instead, and would probably split the plies, as well, in order to avoid the bulk. I have several videos on weaving in yarn tails, including one on reverse duplicate stitch.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you Roxanne! I just watched your video & it's exactly what I want & need. Question, if I am splitting the plies, both sides will have two ends. As in the hole in your example--the white one--I will end up with four ends. Would I just use weave one side up & another down on one side of the hole & do the same thing on the second side of the hole? I have a hole from two different balls as in your example. :-)
Yep, you'll have more ends to weave in, but that's the price you pay when working with bulky yarns. Try weaving in one of the tails without splitting the plies, to see if it will work without being too obvious. If it doesn't work, then you will know to split the plies.
Rox. I am in the master hand knitting program. Is this method acceptable to use?
No idea. When I was in the program, they recommended reverse duplicate stitch, so that's what I used in most cases. For stranded colorwork, I used another method. Not all knitters strive for the results required in the MHK program, and prefer a process that deals with ends as they go. You might try asking in the TKGA forum on Ravelry.
Roxanne Richardson okay. I will. I like this method and I think it looks better. Thanks so much!
Would this also work if making the change at the beginning of the row?
If you're going to be seaming the edge, I'd leave them hanging and weave them into the seam. If the edge is going to remain exposed, I'd change a few sts away from the edge, so that you don't interrupt the flow of the selvedge.
Thank you. I’m working with different colors so doing it a few stitches in won’t really work me though
Hi Rox. Who makes the needles in this vid?
Those are Signature Needle Arts needles.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you. I've watched several of your videos and I'm amazed how talented you are. Pretty incredible. I just started knitting a couple of week ago and so far have knitted 4 scarves. Next is a cowl after my circular needles arrive. I bought ChiaoGoo Red Lace Circular because they're supposed to not have curve memory. I bought Clover Takumi at my local Joanne's Fabrics but fighting the cord was a bit much and I didn't feel like doing the boiling cord "fix".
ChiaoGoo Red Lace circs are excellent, so good choice! You can get those as an interchangeable set, as well.
I don't understand w