Thank you so much for posting! I've been trying to research urushi lacquer myself but I haven't been able to find much information and your video is very informative! I've tried making imitations of urushi pens with resin, but now I know where to start. I hope to see more of these beginner type videos!
Thank you. Watch my video on abrasives in urushi workshop - much more detailed only on abrasives. I am preparing one on lacquers and another on brushes.
That's great! Thank you for the useful video. 💖💖💖 I have a suggestion. As you mentioned some of urushi names , I think it would be a good idea if you make a video about Urushi terminology.
Im a Urushi Artisan. Yes the cleaning the Kiridashi Bake needs lot of time. Nothing is better then a Urushi Brush. I never make a pen with a Urushi Brush, for bigger thing are the Urushi brush awesome. First time made only first layers with the Brush, after Two or three times only for Top layer.
Yes, you are right. Pens are small and only narrow Hake is good - 2, 3 maybe 5bu. But i also use good western brushes a lot. Some lower quality hake i use for covering ishime-kanshitsu or other structured designs. Also for hakeme-nuri a real hake is best. And yes - cleaning takes a lot if time. A lot!
Very clear discription. Thank you so much. Also it would be of great help if you mention the names of the lacquers in video description and the brands you prefer/use. Once again thank you so much.
For transparent layers I use kijiro urushi from Dictum (it is OK), kijiro urushi from Watanabe Shoten (better) and I am waiting for Japanese high-quality urushi from another supplier. I also use aka-roiro, and togidashi urushi for clear layer, also transparent colour layers.
Hello Michael, again good videos that you are sharing with your followers. Question for you: What is the last sand paper grit that you use before to start applying the Urushi lacquer? Thank you for your response.
Last grit depends on the base material. For ebonite - it just needs to be smooth, but not polished. So 400-600 os ok, but even 320 will to. For wood - depends on the technique. For fuki-urushi - a make as smooth as possible for kind of wood I use. For opaque layers - similar to ebonite. But if you ask for grinding layers od urushi before I apply next one, I talk about this in video on abrasives -> ua-cam.com/video/HqWsdEAii7A/v-deo.html - also depends ;) For base layers 600/800, for intermediate up to 1500, (sometimes more), for final layers up to 8000 before next layer.
Mike, I appreciate you goodwill to response to my questions adding very important comments. Do you know if Urushi lacquer will work on resin type Alumilite? To get Ebonite in Canada is not easy, and I am not sure if I could get this one, therefore my question about this Alumilite resin which is made from Utethane. Once again thank you.
I have never lacquered Alumilite, so can't be sure. Recently Nabi from Wet And Wise sent me a section made of Delrin and right now I am testing how it behaves. Urushi sticks to many various surfaces very well. I tried it on different plastics, metals, resins (mostly acrylics) with good results. I would rather choose acrylic resin to be sure - it works. I think I can get Alumilite and check.
Hi, thank you for the video. Could you link the stores where you buy the supply please? I'm from Belgium and I don't understand the name of the stores you give, sorry.
I do not use linseed oil for urushi. It is used for nuritate technique - final layer without polishing, not as glossy as roiro. I use linseed for cleaning brushes ;)
I know urushi is sometimes applied mixed with oil. Will urushi adhere to wood with a cured deep penetrated oil finish (tung + linseed mix) ? Or should urushi be applied? Thanks
Not at all. Initially I worked in gloves but one day I accidentaly touched my nose with a brush, and did not even notice until two hours later. It was already bonded to my skin, but no reaction at all. So i did a test on my forearm, and later on my neck (yes, I am crazy) and still nothing. So I work without gloves now. I can easily mix kijomi with turpentine with my finger ;)
@@TamenuriStudio wow crazy! That's great. If I even look at poison ivy I get itchy 🤣 so I'm probably allergic. If I ever try Urushi I'll make sure to turn it into a jackass video for UA-cam.
Could you link the websites where you source your lacquer from, and other things like charcoal and sandpaper? I'm not sure how to find them from Japanese sellers
I have a couple 3d printed items that I want to put urushi on and undercoat silver leaf with, how many layers should I expect to put on before applying the silver leaf and final coat?
Depends on initial surface, and how many base layers will be needed to make it flat and smooth. Once you get flat and smooth base layer, then you'll need 3 middle layers, and 3 colour top layers before application of silver or gold. For metal leaves surface must be perfect - I make it as smooth and polished as my final layers. alfer applying metal leaf you'll need 2-3 sealing/transparent layers and uwazuri (I mede video on that, just search "uwazuri gloss")
@@TamenuriStudio thank you! The initial surface will come in finished with matte black paint and the items themselves are actually headphone cups from a project called the open alpha project on head-fi. I was inspired by the urushi process that the fostex th-900 goes through for their headphone cups on youtube but had no idea on where to start so your response helps immensely!
@@Higanbana-Raven Fostex used simplified and chemical method. It was not traditional urushi, rather industrial use of urushi. They add some solvents to urushi, and can spray paint with it, and also speed up curing process. It looks nice thou, but not the real thing. I know those cans ;) What material do you use? ABS? I would sand th surface up to 500 grit, then apply raw urushi, 2-3 thi coats, and sand again 500-600 grit. If it is flat and even (but will not be smooth) you a good base for 2-3 more raw urushi layers, or nakanuri and sanding up to 800-1000grit. Then middle layers (probably coloured) nakanuri, each sanded smooth with 1000-1500 grit. Once its smooth, flat and even - top layer, to prepare for gold. Each sanded 1500 grit. Last one i would go up to 2500 grit. Then you are ready for gold - very thin layer (rubbed not applied with brush), wait 10-20 minutes, and then gold leaf. Cure, seal with mix of kijiro with kijomi and 10% turpentine. Inspect, then clear layer (high quality kijiro). You shoul get something like gold tamenuri. Same with silver. Do you publish you work anywhere? YT, instagram, website?
@@Higanbana-Raven My freind is owner of Custom Art - one of best makers of CIEM in the world ;) I use his laser cuter sometimes ;) I learn about cans ;)
@@TamenuriStudio Well damn, my shopping list just gets bigger and bigger! (while my wallet gets smaller and smaller ;-; LOL) Yes, I am using ABS that was printed using a 3d printing service called facfox. As for publishing, I'll probably post my results in the open alpha thread on the head-fi forums with a photo album. Considering that this is my first time doing something like this, I honestly appreciate your help! When I make that furo and get everything in (which will take a while since I'm in the US), you'll be the first to know! :D
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much for posting! I've been trying to research urushi lacquer myself but I haven't been able to find much information and your video is very informative! I've tried making imitations of urushi pens with resin, but now I know where to start. I hope to see more of these beginner type videos!
Thank you. Watch my video on abrasives in urushi workshop - much more detailed only on abrasives. I am preparing one on lacquers and another on brushes.
I made Urushi so long and learn new information from you. TOP Video
thank you!
Thank you! Helped me with my raden project
Glad I could help!
That's great! Thank you for the useful video. 💖💖💖
I have a suggestion. As you mentioned some of urushi names , I think it would be a good idea if you make a video about Urushi terminology.
Thank you. I plan to do such video, too. UA-cam and video - another thing to learn along with urushi ;)
Im a Urushi Artisan. Yes the cleaning the Kiridashi Bake needs lot of time. Nothing is better then a Urushi Brush. I never make a pen with a Urushi Brush, for bigger thing are the Urushi brush awesome. First time made only first layers with the Brush, after Two or three times only for Top layer.
Yes, you are right. Pens are small and only narrow Hake is good - 2, 3 maybe 5bu. But i also use good western brushes a lot. Some lower quality hake i use for covering ishime-kanshitsu or other structured designs. Also for hakeme-nuri a real hake is best. And yes - cleaning takes a lot if time. A lot!
Very clear discription. Thank you so much.
Also it would be of great help if you mention the names of the lacquers in video description and the brands you prefer/use.
Once again thank you so much.
For transparent layers I use kijiro urushi from Dictum (it is OK), kijiro urushi from Watanabe Shoten (better) and I am waiting for Japanese high-quality urushi from another supplier. I also use aka-roiro, and togidashi urushi for clear layer, also transparent colour layers.
Hello Michael, again good videos that you are sharing with your followers. Question for you: What is the last sand paper grit that you use before to start applying the Urushi lacquer? Thank you for your response.
Last grit depends on the base material. For ebonite - it just needs to be smooth, but not polished. So 400-600 os ok, but even 320 will to. For wood - depends on the technique. For fuki-urushi - a make as smooth as possible for kind of wood I use. For opaque layers - similar to ebonite. But if you ask for grinding layers od urushi before I apply next one, I talk about this in video on abrasives -> ua-cam.com/video/HqWsdEAii7A/v-deo.html - also depends ;) For base layers 600/800, for intermediate up to 1500, (sometimes more), for final layers up to 8000 before next layer.
Mike, I appreciate you goodwill to response to my questions adding very important comments. Do you know if Urushi lacquer will work on resin type Alumilite? To get Ebonite in Canada is not easy, and I am not sure if I could get this one, therefore my question about this Alumilite resin which is made from Utethane. Once again thank you.
I have never lacquered Alumilite, so can't be sure. Recently Nabi from Wet And Wise sent me a section made of Delrin and right now I am testing how it behaves. Urushi sticks to many various surfaces very well. I tried it on different plastics, metals, resins (mostly acrylics) with good results. I would rather choose acrylic resin to be sure - it works. I think I can get Alumilite and check.
Tamenuri Studio thanks Mike, as soon as I receive my Urushi lacquers that I bought, I will also try it
What a beautiful pen holder, may I ask what is it?
Pen wrap? It's Nakaya.
Hi, thank you for the video. Could you link the stores where you buy the supply please? I'm from Belgium and I don't understand the name of the stores you give, sorry.
www.urushi-watanabe.net/en/
@@TamenuriStudio thank you very much!
Hello I just have a question what exactly is the Linseed oil used for because I remember I read somewhere it’s is used for mixing with pigments
I do not use linseed oil for urushi. It is used for nuritate technique - final layer without polishing, not as glossy as roiro. I use linseed for cleaning brushes ;)
I know urushi is sometimes applied mixed with oil. Will urushi adhere to wood with a cured deep penetrated oil finish (tung + linseed mix) ? Or should urushi be applied? Thanks
Great video and thanks for sharing. I know nothing of pens or urushi but it's very fascinating 👍. I'm assuming you must not have an allergy to it.
Not at all. Initially I worked in gloves but one day I accidentaly touched my nose with a brush, and did not even notice until two hours later. It was already bonded to my skin, but no reaction at all. So i did a test on my forearm, and later on my neck (yes, I am crazy) and still nothing. So I work without gloves now. I can easily mix kijomi with turpentine with my finger ;)
@@TamenuriStudio wow crazy! That's great. If I even look at poison ivy I get itchy 🤣 so I'm probably allergic. If I ever try Urushi I'll make sure to turn it into a jackass video for UA-cam.
Could you link the websites where you source your lacquer from, and other things like charcoal and sandpaper? I'm not sure how to find them from Japanese sellers
Search for Watanabe shoten ;)
hi could spell out the ? naketko powder , the very fine polishing power
I have a couple 3d printed items that I want to put urushi on and undercoat silver leaf with, how many layers should I expect to put on before applying the silver leaf and final coat?
Depends on initial surface, and how many base layers will be needed to make it flat and smooth. Once you get flat and smooth base layer, then you'll need 3 middle layers, and 3 colour top layers before application of silver or gold. For metal leaves surface must be perfect - I make it as smooth and polished as my final layers. alfer applying metal leaf you'll need 2-3 sealing/transparent layers and uwazuri (I mede video on that, just search "uwazuri gloss")
@@TamenuriStudio thank you! The initial surface will come in finished with matte black paint and the items themselves are actually headphone cups from a project called the open alpha project on head-fi. I was inspired by the urushi process that the fostex th-900 goes through for their headphone cups on youtube but had no idea on where to start so your response helps immensely!
@@Higanbana-Raven Fostex used simplified and chemical method. It was not traditional urushi, rather industrial use of urushi. They add some solvents to urushi, and can spray paint with it, and also speed up curing process. It looks nice thou, but not the real thing. I know those cans ;) What material do you use? ABS? I would sand th surface up to 500 grit, then apply raw urushi, 2-3 thi coats, and sand again 500-600 grit. If it is flat and even (but will not be smooth) you a good base for 2-3 more raw urushi layers, or nakanuri and sanding up to 800-1000grit. Then middle layers (probably coloured) nakanuri, each sanded smooth with 1000-1500 grit. Once its smooth, flat and even - top layer, to prepare for gold. Each sanded 1500 grit. Last one i would go up to 2500 grit. Then you are ready for gold - very thin layer (rubbed not applied with brush), wait 10-20 minutes, and then gold leaf. Cure, seal with mix of kijiro with kijomi and 10% turpentine. Inspect, then clear layer (high quality kijiro). You shoul get something like gold tamenuri. Same with silver. Do you publish you work anywhere? YT, instagram, website?
@@Higanbana-Raven My freind is owner of Custom Art - one of best makers of CIEM in the world ;) I use his laser cuter sometimes ;) I learn about cans ;)
@@TamenuriStudio Well damn, my shopping list just gets bigger and bigger! (while my wallet gets smaller and smaller ;-; LOL) Yes, I am using ABS that was printed using a 3d printing service called facfox. As for publishing, I'll probably post my results in the open alpha thread on the head-fi forums with a photo album. Considering that this is my first time doing something like this, I honestly appreciate your help! When I make that furo and get everything in (which will take a while since I'm in the US), you'll be the first to know! :D