Zack, just FYI. I worked for a distributor that sold Mitsi. And also taught the classes on them. I’m impressed by the flare tool. We have seen the insulation on that pipe fall apart fairly quickly from Uv rays. I would cover that with something and also the nylog isn’t a good idea. If they find out they won’t give you warranty on the unit if the strainers get plugged. Also don’t put the nylog on the threads it changes the torque specs for the nut and you can actually split especially the 1/4 inch line. Per the manufacturer they say 600 psi pressure test because most of the high pressure switch don’t trip until roughly 696 psi. Not trying to beat you up or anything just letting you know.
Installing a 3 ton hybrid system in my house. It uses an inverter condenser with an air handler that uses duct work like a normal air handler but also has inverter technology. Installed a 4 ton in one of my son’s flip houses and it worked awesome. ACIQ brand
Hey Zac I AM FROM INDIA In My country we Use To Flare the Refrigerant Pipes By Using Yoke,block Loving to Watch Your Videos And Iam Studying HVAC engeneering In INDIA🇮🇳 Want To be A Technician and Work In USA🇺🇸 Thank U Zac! A Fan From INDIA✌
Good process mate, well done for putting your process online for scrutiny. I don't oil the threads or pressure test that high in the fear of pushing nitro into the system based on non sealing stop valves. But if it works for you then power to you. Your work is always very high quality. We need more techs like you on Australia.
I worked with brakes on cars some 20 Years in earlier days. We always made a double flange by using a tool that made a positive flare first and later the single procedure you make. The thickness got more sturdy that way. I have now until lately for 35 Years + been in the cooling business mostly working on low temperature cascade systems. Was surprised first time I got into this single made flares. Last 10 Years, I never saw any non soldered joints at any units. Seems like the air condition systems stay a little back in time related to use flare joints. The only I missed later years was access valves since checking static was a major issue by problems. Lost half an ounce was critical so easy to recognize by pressure drop. I had some funny leaks in high stage systems on long neck tube nuts. They froze and thawed every cycle and as vertical mounted, sucked dripping water that froze by every cycle. The tubes got so compressed by ice force to end up totally flattened inside those long neck ones, stay away from them😬 Nice to see your handy work😊
I always use a flare gauge on the flares when done. Or just buy the pre built flares and press them on 🤟 In cold states we have a few other tricks to keep them flare nuts from backing off during the winter months
Like in the manual you will also want to apply lubricant specified in the manuals to your flares too. Ive always put nylog on the threads and mating surface, also helps to prevent from spinning the tube while you tighten the flare nut.
Hey man great video I actually just went through the Mitsubishi training course and they actually recommend NOT to use any sort of thread lock. Just a tip 👍🏼
@@cheeeqo whatever you want to call it, they don’t want you using it as it can ruin the system/ compressor and they actually say it will void the warranty if used
@@xVizzeh That’s nonsense. Nylog doesn’t affect refrigerant oil. It is non acid forming. I’ve taken the same courses at Mitsubishi and I’ve been told the same. I don’t use nylog regardless because I see no need for it, but theres no harm in using it as long as you don’t glob the stuff on.
Hey Zaac, I'm looking for a video that shows how to flare manually man, and you come up with a $300+ automatic tool? Plus you forgot to mention the vacuum part. That's crucial before releasing the refrigerant.
I know this is 2 years old but can you add links to the specific tools you mention? There's a tool list in the description but it doesn't have the tools mentioned so far and I'm at 3:42
I have been told to NOT put nylog on the threads, but rather on the sealing face of the flare. If you use it on the threads, it can change the torque values. Any thoughts ?
yes thats what most have been saying, and mostly are seems to professionals or experienced installer. but it seems like people also having success with it anyways even with some uncommon practice lol
thanks for this educational video, you said you pressurize the pipe to see if it leaks, you mean vacume it if it hold under 500 for 10 mins ? or it is different thing ? thanks
Is there a reason to pressurize the system vs vacuuming? I'm old school been out of the trade since 2003. Put in a few mini splits when they were first gaining popularity.
Its just to test for leaks. He's pressurizing the system with nitrogen to make sure there are no leaks BEFORE he pulls vacuum. If you hear the nitrogen escaping or you see the pressure drop on your gauges then you have a leak. If the pressure holds for a period of time then the system is ready for vacuum. You can do it with a vacuum too if you have a micron gauge but a lot of newer techs are using nitrogen. They will release the nitro to depressurize the system after the test and then pull vacuum.
500 psi!?! Honestly never heard of anyone pressurizing systems to that high. Actually talked to Trane during a training and they recommend pressurizing up to only 150 psi and I asked why and basically gave me a run around answer and what I got from that answer is basically their coils suck. Can confirm I work for a Trane dealer. Not as bad as Lennox though.
The reason you need to be careful with the pressure is you could create a seal issue in the service valve at too high of a pressure and also possibly contaminate the refrigerant with nitrogen. Especially if there is an underlying issue with the factory service valve. Small chance….but possibly. I’ve always stayed no more than 200 psi in my 34 years. A good flare and you should be good. Each tech does things to there comfort level. Good video!
Personally, I have a hard time believing people have so much trouble using a basic flare block? 🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🍿🎯 Stay safe. Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
I like your videos. But this is not a how to properly flare video. This is a I use modern battery flaring tools. Newer guys in the field don't have these types of tools. To properly make a flaring video, then use mechanical flaring tools and teach guys how to use them. Also a lot of mini split companies say " do not use nilog", why I don't know.
Nylog is absolutely useless as a sealant for flaring. The thread's role is to apply pressure on the flaring as you screw your brass nut. The only time you wanna use nylog is when you want to lubricate your flaring tool metalic cone. You can also simply use poe/pve or any mineral oil regarding to your installation.
Zack, just FYI. I worked for a distributor that sold Mitsi. And also taught the classes on them. I’m impressed by the flare tool. We have seen the insulation on that pipe fall apart fairly quickly from Uv rays. I would cover that with something and also the nylog isn’t a good idea. If they find out they won’t give you warranty on the unit if the strainers get plugged. Also don’t put the nylog on the threads it changes the torque specs for the nut and you can actually split especially the 1/4 inch line. Per the manufacturer they say 600 psi pressure test because most of the high pressure switch don’t trip until roughly 696 psi. Not trying to beat you up or anything just letting you know.
I’m in school learning hvac and one day I inspire to be a tech thank you for explaining everything you do
Installing a 3 ton hybrid system in my house. It uses an inverter condenser with an air handler that uses duct work like a normal air handler but also has inverter technology. Installed a 4 ton in one of my son’s flip houses and it worked awesome. ACIQ brand
Garbage
We will see
What is an inverter condenser?
@@ShanQueefus it is a condenser used for mini splits
Hey Zac I AM FROM INDIA
In My country we Use To Flare the Refrigerant Pipes By Using Yoke,block
Loving to Watch Your Videos
And Iam Studying HVAC engeneering In INDIA🇮🇳 Want To be A Technician and
Work In USA🇺🇸
Thank U Zac!
A Fan From INDIA✌
Good process mate, well done for putting your process online for scrutiny. I don't oil the threads or pressure test that high in the fear of pushing nitro into the system based on non sealing stop valves. But if it works for you then power to you. Your work is always very high quality. We need more techs like you on Australia.
Thanks for using the back up wrench on those service valves. I see so many techs on UA-cam tightening fittings with one wrench.
I've never considered there was a tool that could flare so nicely! definitely want that in the truck as we'd use it for inverter systems as well
I worked with brakes on cars some 20 Years in earlier days. We always made a double flange by using a tool that made a positive flare first and later the single procedure you make. The thickness got more sturdy that way.
I have now until lately for 35 Years + been in the cooling business mostly working on low temperature cascade systems.
Was surprised first time I got into this single made flares. Last 10 Years, I never saw any non soldered joints at any units.
Seems like the air condition systems stay a little back in time related to use flare joints.
The only I missed later years was access valves since checking static was a major issue by problems.
Lost half an ounce was critical so easy to recognize by pressure drop.
I had some funny leaks in high stage systems on long neck tube nuts. They froze and thawed every cycle and as vertical mounted, sucked dripping water that froze by every cycle. The tubes got so compressed by ice force to end up totally flattened inside those long neck ones, stay away from them😬
Nice to see your handy work😊
I never thought to use Nylog behind the flare. Good idea! I was only shown to put it on the threads.
Best flaring tool I've ever used.
I always use a flare gauge on the flares when done. Or just buy the pre built flares and press them on 🤟
In cold states we have a few other tricks to keep them flare nuts from backing off during the winter months
Like in the manual you will also want to apply lubricant specified in the manuals to your flares too. Ive always put nylog on the threads and mating surface, also helps to prevent from spinning the tube while you tighten the flare nut.
I use the older model of the navac battery flare kit. Seems great
Hey man great video I actually just went through the Mitsubishi training course and they actually recommend NOT to use any sort of thread lock. Just a tip 👍🏼
same with the Carrier class i took today
Nylog isn't thread lock. I've used it for two years no issues.
@@cheeeqo whatever you want to call it, they don’t want you using it as it can ruin the system/ compressor and they actually say it will void the warranty if used
@@xVizzeh That’s nonsense. Nylog doesn’t affect refrigerant oil. It is non acid forming. I’ve taken the same courses at Mitsubishi and I’ve been told the same. I don’t use nylog regardless because I see no need for it, but theres no harm in using it as long as you don’t glob the stuff on.
People recommend you don’t smoke cigarettes but there is a ridiculous amount of people who do it. Nylog doesn’t do any harm to anything
I’ll be switching to this exact process soon!
You’re giving away all the secrets man
Thanks for tips Zac. 👌
Hey Zaac, I'm looking for a video that shows how to flare manually man, and you come up with a $300+ automatic tool? Plus you forgot to mention the vacuum part. That's crucial before releasing the refrigerant.
Well done and said friend!
Question when using the Navac system flaring tool , do you still have to solder the joint ?
Cheers
Hey Zack! I use the exact set-up and love it! From refrigerant to gas lines it’s awesome! Love the channel!
I know this is 2 years old but can you add links to the specific tools you mention? There's a tool list in the description but it doesn't have the tools mentioned so far and I'm at 3:42
Excelente Video ! Feliz Año Nuevo 🎉🎉👏 Happy New Year
I have been told to NOT put nylog on the threads, but rather on the sealing face of the flare. If you use it on the threads, it can change the torque values. Any thoughts ?
yes thats what most have been saying, and mostly are seems to professionals or experienced installer. but it seems like people also having success with it anyways even with some uncommon practice lol
What is your opinion of the different flare seals on the market?
No nylog on the face of the flare?
Fantastic
Beautiful. Next time I’ll get these tools. How much BTU for a room? What’s your formula?
Can you do a video on how to pressurize the system I wana see what digital gauge you were talking also any tips for new HVAC techs or apprentices
Can you do a double flare with that tool?
Well would ya look at that! I commented on your last video about mini splits and what do you know. Hell yea.
thanks for this educational video, you said you pressurize the pipe to see if it leaks, you mean vacume it if it hold under 500 for 10 mins ? or it is different thing ? thanks
Good content bud
Quality hvacr I got a question that is your song name at the end of the video?
Hey love your videos, I was wondering if you can do a coil condenser change out please!!!
They actually make a flare kit that is specially designed for mini splits and it includes the torch wrench.
Would have liked to see those tools in use on the inside connections
What watch do you wear?
How much is that navac flaring tool?
Whats the name model of the flarr tool?
Nice tools
Is there a reason to pressurize the system vs vacuuming? I'm old school been out of the trade since 2003. Put in a few mini splits when they were first gaining popularity.
Its just to test for leaks. He's pressurizing the system with nitrogen to make sure there are no leaks BEFORE he pulls vacuum. If you hear the nitrogen escaping or you see the pressure drop on your gauges then you have a leak. If the pressure holds for a period of time then the system is ready for vacuum. You can do it with a vacuum too if you have a micron gauge but a lot of newer techs are using nitrogen. They will release the nitro to depressurize the system after the test and then pull vacuum.
Yes if you have a leak you are pulling in contaminates and moisture
Thankks for the interesting and informative video Zac, and you sure have a beautiful family..........
Dude don't be creepy
Great tip Zack
What's the cost of the torque wrench
How about guys who don't have all the super tech tools. Flare with a flare tool and tighten till tight then another 1/4 in turn. 😆
Wait wait wait. You put Nylog where? Gotta do a 2 Min video on nylog bro. Either I've been doing it wrong or you know something I don't.
500 psi!?! Honestly never heard of anyone pressurizing systems to that high. Actually talked to Trane during a training and they recommend pressurizing up to only 150 psi and I asked why and basically gave me a run around answer and what I got from that answer is basically their coils suck. Can confirm I work for a Trane dealer. Not as bad as Lennox though.
The reason you need to be careful with the pressure is you could create a seal issue in the service valve at too high of a pressure and also possibly contaminate the refrigerant with nitrogen.
Especially if there is an underlying issue with the factory service valve.
Small chance….but possibly. I’ve always stayed no more than 200 psi in my 34 years. A good flare and you should be good.
Each tech does things to there comfort level.
Good video!
I agree with your statement I typically do around 200 as well if I get crazy I’ll push up to 300 but never passed that.
Most mini split manufacturers recommend 500 psi….
Nylog used incorrectly
Does anyone else add a liquid line port?
I DO!! And I appreciate the hell out every one (not many) I come across. I absolutely HATE that they don't have them from factory
Personally, I have a hard time believing people have so much trouble using a basic flare block?
🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🍿🎯
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
👍
I like your videos. But this is not a how to properly flare video. This is a I use modern battery flaring tools. Newer guys in the field don't have these types of tools. To properly make a flaring video, then use mechanical flaring tools and teach guys how to use them. Also a lot of mini split companies say " do not use nilog", why I don't know.
Do not use Nylog on flares. Flares are dry fit.
600psi for 60 mins min here
💪💪🇩🇿🇩🇿
Putting nylog on the threads throws off the torque value.
That is correct, I should of mentioned that I use the lower torque value when using nylog.
@@QualityHVACR is there a general set of values on how much torque to reduce with nylog?
that deburrow tool is very uneven and will actually mess up the flare, plus im not even going to watch anyone who puts kids in a utube video, lol
Nylog is absolutely useless as a sealant for flaring. The thread's role is to apply pressure on the flaring as you screw your brass nut.
The only time you wanna use nylog is when you want to lubricate your flaring tool metalic cone. You can also simply use poe/pve or any mineral oil regarding to your installation.
🤣 Absolutely not!