Amazing results! Great information and tutorial. I have the Luxnwatts Creality Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive fitted. It has the V shape already, do you think I would still have to print the 3d printed version for this to work with Ninjaflex? Again great tutorial.
@@MrMarksam1 The V-shape is not the solution here, it is the Boden tube that can be fitted inside of the 3D printed part, the Stock part has a smaller hole where the filament enters before it goes into the boden tube. this one had a hole of an even diameter all the way, so that you can fot the peace of the boden tube in... hope this helps...
10 months in to 3D printing and I have watched many of your videos. I just wanted to take the time and say THANK YOU! No BS.. Not wasted time.. just good hard facts and usable information!
CHEP has a flair for storytelling, speaking not only to the point, but simply in an interesting way. It's good to watch and it's easier to organize your own knowledge. Each of these short videos is solid foundation for your own experiments. Thanks Chuck.
@@FilamentFriday I believe that you have knowledge, you want to share it and you can do it in an accessible way. Few have these three things at once. And you do not pretend to be a color rapper :) like some ones.
Awesome! 10mm/s is definitely not fast, but hey if it can do it it can do it and from a bowden alone is impressive with 1.75mm. You can force S3D to backtrace through the parts by adding a high number to 'avoid crossing outline for travel movements' and it'll stop the stringing completely regardless of retraction being disabled.
This works really well on my ender 3. For some unknown reason I used PTEG settings for my PSVR glasses protection model. With 12% infill and used 30% support along with 225/60 temp. And it came out really well. The support came away with a struggle but cleanly and all done with the fantastic Chep,a extruder 3d print and a piece of bowden tube. The Ender 3 never ceases to amaze me.
Chep, thank you for this video- it saved me after a recent extruder drive update. I replaced the plastic extruder unit on my Ender 3 with an inexpensive metal one (per one of your other videos). Unfortunately with the one I purchased, there was a large gap between the drive wheel and where the driven filament goes into the bowden tube - one much wider than even the stock Creality plastic extruder. Every type of filament was spooling up in that gap before it could get to the bowden, right where your video showed the flex winding up before your fix. Because of YOUR video, I knew I needed to fill that gap. Fortunately, the particular all metal drive unit I bought was threaded all the way through to where the bowden tube coupler/clamp goes. I took a threaded metal hot end throat tube (same thread!), shaped the out end with a Dremel (yes an actual Dremel) to look like the "snake mouth" (your words) from the video then shortened it to length (estimated by eye) so it would meet with the tube clamp where that ended in the threads. The threads also allowed me to adjust the throw to the idler and drive wheel as close as possible without dragging and I locked it down by tightening the bowden clamp tight against it. Works like a champ AND I have a sturdier extruder than provided by Creality. THANK YOU!!
Suuper late to the party. Many thanks for this video! However, I have a potential alternative that could save a lot of time and frustration. I attempted to print the extruder file, but it's a mess. My machines are finicky, and I* need to design every part with it's quirks in mind. However, while I waited for that to even print, I found a much quicker solution. I have several extruder assemblies that are plastic. They have a threaded insert for the coupler, a metal idler, and hardware, but the mass is plastic. So I just drilled it out. Not even with a drill, just put a bit with hex shank in a screwdriver handle and reamed it. Took about 5 minutes from start to finish. Same deal with the pointed tubing to reign in the filaments, but yeah, no need to print anything, just make the hole big enough for the tube (4mm). Would probably work with a metal extruder, but I wouldn't try to do that by hand. Wear safety glasses and thick gloves, or whatever level of PPE you are comfortable with.
Awesome! I'm a fan of your channel. Glad you were able to find some success with TPU. I also really like your remix with the added threading. I'll link it in the main Thingiverse post.
Thank you! First try and I printed the same octopus you did, similar settings and it turned out perfectly! Even with the cheap eBay TPU I used haha I couldn't believe how easy it actually was to print, I had more trouble printing the replacement extruder guide Awesome guide!
where have you been my entire 3D printing life? ok... so its only been about 2 years, but I learnt more from your 7min video then I have in the past 2 years.. i am not one to "read the manual" but after 2 years of glueing the bed and using brims and rafts to get adhesion.. i just used your levelling instructions and code. and its working perfectly !! during this 2020 virus lockdown I am 3D printing stuff like crazy to give away free to people indeed and your few videos that I have watched so far have saved me tons of time and filament !! thanks so much !!
6:32 So out of the box the CR-10 Mini and Ender 3 can't print flexible filament but this small modification.... *you're all set* Why does that sound so cool how Chuck says that XD
So far what I found is, the extruder tension has to be very light, just a little beyond basic tightness. Where as PETG needed to be wrenched down because it was slick, the tension creates a stretch or a bulge and it wraps around. That said I just started using it the other day, but that's what I found so far.
I noticed, depending on what I was printing, and some other settings and issues, having tension on the inlet filament by way of an overhead, heavy spool reduced the chance of binding, escaping, or bulging. That would be the same as less extruder tension as the two are fighting each other. I prefer, because I print TPU on a small machine actually to lay the spool flat on the floor and let it unwind concentrically. This means almost zero tension on the filament, so the focus is again on the extruder. It's wild how variables in one part of the machine can affect performance of other components. - Oh how much I would love a Bambu Labs machine....
@@easymac79 each filament drives me crazy. I built an overhead cabinet that's sealed, with a spool holder with bearings. The tension has to be middle for one petg, another one has to be very tight. The tpu squishes and creates a bulge if its too tight. But it can't be too loose either. I can deal with retraction etc stretching it, its just a number. But the mechanical tension, getting that right every time is hard.
Great tips! One question, I have a metal upgraded extruded, can I just insert the tube on that extruder on my Ender 3 or do I have to print the piece for that?
Hi there CHEP, another great video, congrats. I managed to print a Shore 98A TPU without changing anything on the printer. Already had saved your modified extruder but decided to give it a try with the standard one.
I tried printing Shore 90-94A TPU and it extruded for a bit and then slipped out again and again... I will definitely try it with this upgrade again ;)
Thank you so much Chep! Thomas Sanladerer's solution was not an actual fix for me. Yours is my last resort before giving up flexible filament printings. I do appreciate you make the modifications on the cr10 mini. I own one. BIG DAY FOR ME. Thanks again. Just a question: do your modifs change the quality of traditional PLA outputs?
I printed this. The holes for the screwd line up but the hole for the boden coupler is too small amd wont threa in. If i scaled it just slightly to make it fit then the screw holes will no longer fit. EDIT: i used my drill press and used a 7/32 bit amd drilled the hole, coupler screwed in tightly and holds
Can the printed extruder upgrade also print PLA, PETG, etc.? Do you need to change the part out if you plan to switch from one filament type to another?
@@FilamentFriday I think the question is why does it bind up like that when you don't have any retraction turned on. Is it catching in the stock part or whats the reason for the binding?
is the plastic design of the extruder different on the E3 compared to the E3 Pro? I have several E3 Pro’s built in the same year as this video was made, and they print Ninjaflex fine completely stock.
Do you have to remove your modification in order to go back to printing something else? Or can you leave your modification on for all types of filament?
Hello it's Mike again I just wanted to know I've just ordered ninjaflex and I'm using your ninaflex profile but how much infill would you use for the octopus as a test run. Be safe mike from England. 👍
Hey chep, thanks for your videos. Your filament guide has a new bracket to hold the cable but i was unable to find it on thingiverse. Any help ? Thanks a lot
Thanks. Use the link in my description and get it from Banggood for low price. If you are in USA get it from there USA warehouse for quicker shipping and lower price.
Would this be compatible on the ender 3v2, I'm new to 3d printing and wanted a V2 to start but figured a direct drive extruder would be the better option, then came across this mod and wanted to know - thanks
Hey Chep. Find your channel when I bought my ender 3 v2. Amazing work. I'm trying to print tpu, and I get blobs and zits all over the print. Nothing I do seems to improve it.
@@FilamentFriday thanks Chep. I used the same tpu and the same stl on my prusa i3 and it came out perfect. It's something about travel or retraction or something that makes the filament ooze. And after every retraction it spits more than needed and leaves a blob.
Thank you. I made extruder as in this videó and I can print TPE!! I have a question, with this extruder can I print Pla and Petg too, or I have to change the extruder to older if I want print other filament?
printing TPU just fine on the ender 3 at 30mm/s havent tried faster, (i have an i3plus with flexion to compare it with), havent tried ninjaflex on the ender though :)
Since you can't use retraction with flexible filaments, you can reduce stringing by enabling 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements' under the Advanced tab and setting the value to about 20, as Maker's Muse has suggested in his flexible guide ua-cam.com/video/fTJz6vMvtJ8/v-deo.html I actually use this option for any filament when I want the travel movements to occur inside the model to hide stringing.
Look on eBay, you'll find the right one. Edit: the Ender 3 uses an M3 screw. It's socket type. I have a metal extruder so it's probably longer than the stock screw. You'll have to find a suitable replacement or order an M3 screw assortment.
Ender 2 vs ender 3? I would like to print flexible filament as well. I have not assembled a 3d printer before and was wondering which one I should get considering quality of printing and ease of assembly
Hi try to use TPU on my ender 3, but why the layer does not stick with others? the walls just separate away especially when i squish it.. do you know what cause the problem? thanks
The third and fourth link in the description link to the printable file. It's possible you can modify the existing extruder frame to fit the tubing and simply cut the end to the arrowhead shape.
hi Chep. Great video. I have an E3 Max. Will this same adapapter work on this machine too. Trying to print in TPU for the first time. Any suggestions very much welcome.
I found with testing, that the most important part is finding a way to get a bit of PTFE tubing between the frame of the extruder, and the gears. What you are trying to do is guide the flexibles, with no escape path. On the inlet side, there is less worry, but after the gears, it's trying to mash up and can slip out the side, or just gum up. (I avoided retractions for this reason, but this CHEP's solution is much better. No matter the design, focus on that 10-15mm between the extruder gears, and where it meets the tubing. The metal or plastic 'funnel' looks accepting; but the filament will* escape. The pointed shape of the tubing that butts against the gears, to provide a perfect path is what you are aiming for. This can be adapted to any* extruder design if you focus on what needs to happen to put tubing in that spot. - for me, it meant using a drill bit to widen the plastic hole to fit the tubing, then cut to shape (arrowhead). Hope this helps!
@@easymac79 thanks Kyle. I did try it, but found very fiddly. Bit the bullet and bought a Sprite Pro direct drive. Prints TPU with no fuss. Very clean prints across the board.
I am still new to the 3D printing scene. Does the extruder upgrade work with regular PLA filament as well? or will I have to change that attachment as I need to upgrade with ninjaflex?
Hey CHEP first off great content and thank you for spending the time to help the community. I printed the same exact way you did (at least i think i do) even the same octopus but for some reason the top of the head on mine caved in slightly and had gaps. I printed with no infill or support and 6 layer shell 0.3 layer height. What do you think caused this?
My filament slips in the PTFE tube at the beginning. I see the filament buckle a little bit in the tube which result giving me gaps between the layers. It extrudes not the whole amount? What should I do ? I have the ender 3
3DPrinterOS is a helpful, easy to understand slicer which is what I use. It's all online an it's all free, so you don't have to pay money or download any files.
so i printed your improved version and i cant seem to get the capricorn tubing to stay in the drive. it doesnt fit tight at all. i bought the exact stuff you have linked
A big thanks for your time and great videos. And a question... If I perform this mod I'm worried that changing filaments will cause that little piece of Capricorn tubing that you placed in the filament path will get drawn back into the idler wheel/gear space as I pull my old filament out of the extruder. I don't typically just execute a E- move to reverse the extruder to eject the old filament during a change. I carefully pull it out by hand while pressing the idler arm out of the way. Is this going to make it a serious hassle to change filaments?
Totally worked on my ender 3 at first. I could print 4 pieces with the flexible filament. But now I cannot print anymore. I start printing and it suddenly stops extruding. The gears move but the filament is not pushed. It slips. I changed the nozzle and have the same results. It does start the print but eventually stops extruding. I have no idea how to fix this. For PLA and ABS extrudes normally. What is happening with the TPU? I am using 230 degrees and 15mm/s, exactly the same as I did for the other pieces thats printed fine.
CHEP ok. Just did. I changed the ptfe for a new one and also the nozzle again. The path is clear. Believe it or not, now it extrudes filament out of the extruder! I checked the extruded printed piece and the small ptfe “snake” shape inside and it looked ok. I cannot believe how I printed 4 pieces perfectly and now I cannot print flexible any way.
What do you mean by actuator? Your best bet is to print something smooth, then silicone mold it, then mold it again to get your flexible part if it's that important.
@@FilamentFriday Any hard data on temperature? I'm in the laborious process of building my very first 3D printer, and I'd like it to be able to handle high temp filaments from the start.
@@ipodtouch470 An HHO Generator makes Hydrogen gas using the Electrolysis method. The gasket separates the stainless steel plates from touching each other.
I wouldn't think so. The size of the hydrogen molecules is so small that it would surely leak somewhere between layers or on the not a 100% smooth surface. Try it out but I wouldn't have high hopes..
How you sent me over here I'm sure you remember it was just the last night from your other video where you install the direct drive? Anyway I actually tried to print this before my machine broke down and it printed just fine all those printing kind of crudely due to the feeling fan that I have but that's another story but at any rate it printed a tiny perhaps for mm hole I couldn't even begin to screw in the fitting on my cr-10 is there two different versions of this one for the smaller size the feeling? Because I noticed the one you use in this video would have worked fine but I printed it twice and both times it grenade a very small orifice. I printed this file one time and the improved version with the threads and both of them printed really tiny I don't understand it.
Hi there. Looks like it has been a good while since you made this video. Are you still finding this to hold up well for flexible printing on an Ender 3, or would you recommend going a different direction? Thanks in advance!
Great video! I have watched almost all your videos about the ender 3. I was wondering, a direct drive extruder could help too to print ninja flex without this modifications? Thank you in advance
Great video Chep. I tried to duplicate your success, but failed dramatically. I printed the modified extruder, that works fine. I've tried the flexi octopus with Filaflex 82A, Flexy 96A and Flexy2 98A. All three had filament separation at the top of the octopus head. I'm running Cura 3.6 with .3mm layer height, no retraction, 3 top and bottom layers and Wall Line Count is 6. Any idea what went wrong? I'm also running a CR-10 Mini. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
@@FilamentFriday I just received the sample pack last week. I forgot to mention that this is semi-flex. I did a couple of tests, printing only the top of the head and it's looking better. I don't recall all of the settings I changed but some of them are turning off the top layers, turning on adaptive layers and outer before inner walls.
CHEP have you done any 3Dlabprint airplanes i am not having any luck printing they come out stringy etc wont print inside structure on cura and when i use Simplify 3D program its so stringy and rough any help would be appreciated i cant find anyone that has a profile for this
CHEP, I have a pretty important question. Since i want to print this upgrade because i want to print flexibles, this is the way. But I am worried that in a few days when I upgrade to the dual drive extruder, or any metal extruder, this will not work. So my quesrion is does super flexibls tpu work with the winsinn extruder?
No neither works with very flexible. For that I recommend the EZR extruder. It works with all plastics and traps the filament so super flexible can’t escape. ua-cam.com/video/1GNDxvxpWr8/v-deo.html
Amazing results!
Great information and tutorial.
I have the Luxnwatts Creality Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive fitted.
It has the V shape already, do you think I would still have to print the 3d printed version for this to work with Ninjaflex?
Again great tutorial.
did you try it out?
@@MrMarksam1 The V-shape is not the solution here, it is the Boden tube that can be fitted inside of the 3D printed part, the Stock part has a smaller hole where the filament enters before it goes into the boden tube. this one had a hole of an even diameter all the way, so that you can fot the peace of the boden tube in... hope this helps...
The ender is just all around the best budget printer. You can make so many modifications and tweaks, and it does an amazing job of printing
10 months in to 3D printing and I have watched many of your videos.
I just wanted to take the time and say THANK YOU!
No BS.. Not wasted time.. just good hard facts and usable information!
CHEP has a flair for storytelling, speaking not only to the point, but simply in an interesting way. It's good to watch and it's easier to organize your own knowledge. Each of these short videos is solid foundation for your own experiments. Thanks Chuck.
Thank You. I really appreciate that.
@@FilamentFriday I believe that you have knowledge, you want to share it and you can do it in an accessible way. Few have these three things at once. And you do not pretend to be a color rapper :) like some ones.
Awesome! 10mm/s is definitely not fast, but hey if it can do it it can do it and from a bowden alone is impressive with 1.75mm. You can force S3D to backtrace through the parts by adding a high number to 'avoid crossing outline for travel movements' and it'll stop the stringing completely regardless of retraction being disabled.
Thanks I’ll try that avoid crossing idea. 10mm/s is also a starting point. I’ll be testing higher speeds in future prints.
This works really well on my ender 3. For some unknown reason I used PTEG settings for my PSVR glasses protection model. With 12% infill and used 30% support along with 225/60 temp. And it came out really well. The support came away with a struggle but cleanly and all done with the fantastic Chep,a extruder 3d print and a piece of bowden tube. The Ender 3 never ceases to amaze me.
When cutting a bowden tube, I highly recommend cutting it with filament in place. This makes it even less likely that you'll crush the tube.
Good tip.
Chep, thank you for this video- it saved me after a recent extruder drive update. I replaced the plastic extruder unit on my Ender 3 with an inexpensive metal one (per one of your other videos). Unfortunately with the one I purchased, there was a large gap between the drive wheel and where the driven filament goes into the bowden tube - one much wider than even the stock Creality plastic extruder. Every type of filament was spooling up in that gap before it could get to the bowden, right where your video showed the flex winding up before your fix. Because of YOUR video, I knew I needed to fill that gap. Fortunately, the particular all metal drive unit I bought was threaded all the way through to where the bowden tube coupler/clamp goes. I took a threaded metal hot end throat tube (same thread!), shaped the out end with a Dremel (yes an actual Dremel) to look like the "snake mouth" (your words) from the video then shortened it to length (estimated by eye) so it would meet with the tube clamp where that ended in the threads. The threads also allowed me to adjust the throw to the idler and drive wheel as close as possible without dragging and I locked it down by tightening the bowden clamp tight against it. Works like a champ AND I have a sturdier extruder than provided by Creality. THANK YOU!!
4:35 Are you a wizard? Installed this on my Ender-2, works really good.
Another fantastic, clear, and concise demonstration of how to improve your printers. Well done!
Thanks
Suuper late to the party. Many thanks for this video!
However, I have a potential alternative that could save a lot of time and frustration.
I attempted to print the extruder file, but it's a mess. My machines are finicky, and I* need to design every part with it's quirks in mind.
However, while I waited for that to even print, I found a much quicker solution. I have several extruder assemblies that are plastic. They have a threaded insert for the coupler, a metal idler, and hardware, but the mass is plastic. So I just drilled it out. Not even with a drill, just put a bit with hex shank in a screwdriver handle and reamed it.
Took about 5 minutes from start to finish.
Same deal with the pointed tubing to reign in the filaments, but yeah, no need to print anything, just make the hole big enough for the tube (4mm). Would probably work with a metal extruder, but I wouldn't try to do that by hand.
Wear safety glasses and thick gloves, or whatever level of PPE you are comfortable with.
Awesome! I'm a fan of your channel. Glad you were able to find some success with TPU. I also really like your remix with the added threading. I'll link it in the main Thingiverse post.
Thank you! First try and I printed the same octopus you did, similar settings and it turned out perfectly! Even with the cheap eBay TPU I used haha
I couldn't believe how easy it actually was to print, I had more trouble printing the replacement extruder guide
Awesome guide!
Thank you for getting information across in a clear & concise manner. Your channel stands out to me, for that reason.
Wow, thanks.
where have you been my entire 3D printing life?
ok... so its only been about 2 years, but I learnt more from your 7min video then I have in the past 2 years.. i am not one to "read the manual" but after 2 years of glueing the bed and using brims and rafts to get adhesion.. i just used your levelling instructions and code. and its working perfectly !!
during this 2020 virus lockdown I am 3D printing stuff like crazy to give away free to people indeed and your few videos that I have watched so far have saved me tons of time and filament !!
thanks so much !!
Yeah, I’ve only been here since 2014 but UA-cam kept me hidden ...haha.
Youre brilliant. IM going to try this before i buy the flexion extruder. If this works for my cr-10s ill be saving $280 thats including delivery.
It Worked for me thank you so much !!!! best 3D printing channel
6:32 So out of the box the CR-10 Mini and Ender 3 can't print flexible filament but this small modification.... *you're all set*
Why does that sound so cool how Chuck says that XD
Well spoken, straight to the point, very useful. Many thanks.
lovely video, clear explanation and great delivery - also it's nice that you go around finding these solutions and testing them fro us. Thank you.
Thanks. Make sure to use my updated design with threads. It’s linked in the description.
Does anyone have a link to the Red Flex filament he shows off at the end? Want to get some myself and can’t find it anywhere
It’s here: amzn.to/358zIqH
Liked and subscribed! Great video...concise and thorough! Thanks much! 🤘😀
You have one of the best 3D channel on the UA-cam. 👍 Subscribed and I will watch all your videos.
Thanks
So far what I found is, the extruder tension has to be very light, just a little beyond basic tightness. Where as PETG needed to be wrenched down because it was slick, the tension creates a stretch or a bulge and it wraps around. That said I just started using it the other day, but that's what I found so far.
I noticed, depending on what I was printing, and some other settings and issues, having tension on the inlet filament by way of an overhead, heavy spool reduced the chance of binding, escaping, or bulging.
That would be the same as less extruder tension as the two are fighting each other.
I prefer, because I print TPU on a small machine actually to lay the spool flat on the floor and let it unwind concentrically. This means almost zero tension on the filament, so the focus is again on the extruder.
It's wild how variables in one part of the machine can affect performance of other components.
- Oh how much I would love a Bambu Labs machine....
@@easymac79 each filament drives me crazy. I built an overhead cabinet that's sealed, with a spool holder with bearings. The tension has to be middle for one petg, another one has to be very tight. The tpu squishes and creates a bulge if its too tight. But it can't be too loose either. I can deal with retraction etc stretching it, its just a number. But the mechanical tension, getting that right every time is hard.
Great tips! One question, I have a metal upgraded extruded, can I just insert the tube on that extruder on my Ender 3 or do I have to print the piece for that?
You probably have to drill it out to go through but it could work.
Hi there CHEP, another great video, congrats.
I managed to print a Shore 98A TPU without changing anything on the printer. Already had saved your modified extruder but decided to give it a try with the standard one.
I tried printing Shore 90-94A TPU and it extruded for a bit and then slipped out again and again... I will definitely try it with this upgrade again ;)
Thank you Chuck!! You really make this enjoyable.
Thank you so much Chep! Thomas Sanladerer's solution was not an actual fix for me. Yours is my last resort before giving up flexible filament printings. I do appreciate you make the modifications on the cr10 mini. I own one. BIG DAY FOR ME. Thanks again. Just a question: do your modifs change the quality of traditional PLA outputs?
No. PLA prints the same.
I brought home some flexible filament and was just about to load it into my ender 3, when I say down and saw this video! Perfect timing?
why the ptfe tube insert? why not incorporate this into the 3dmodel of the thing?
My thought was easier to replace but others have since remixed it to make it all 3D print.
Hi cool video very useful! With this modification you can print pla too? Or you have to switch it all the time? Thank you
It works with PLA and other filaments as well.
CHEP that’s perfect thank you
I printed this. The holes for the screwd line up but the hole for the boden coupler is too small amd wont threa in. If i scaled it just slightly to make it fit then the screw holes will no longer fit. EDIT: i used my drill press and used a 7/32 bit amd drilled the hole, coupler screwed in tightly and holds
Awesome! I just have one question:
If I did this, would I be able to still print normal pla? I have an ender 3 pro.
Yes you can, it really doesn't change anything for pla
It actually helps prevent stringing on lots of filaments.
your settings are amazing for my Ender 3 v2! thanks!
Can the printed extruder upgrade also print PLA, PETG, etc.? Do you need to change the part out if you plan to switch from one filament type to another?
No all filaments work
@@FilamentFriday Thanks for the video and previous comment. I'm now printing TPU on my Ender 3, and the results are phenomenal!
I had the similar problem when switching to TPU - i`ve found cranking the heat right up on the nozzle removes unused pla after that its fine.
I improved the extruder 3D print by adding threads in coupling hole. The new file is on Thingiverse. Link is in description.
i dont understand why u had to upgrade that part lol im so confused
Watch at 1:30 again and it should explain why. The stock extruder lets this super flexible filament escape.
@@FilamentFriday I think the question is why does it bind up like that when you don't have any retraction turned on. Is it catching in the stock part or whats the reason for the binding?
@pillowhead - I upgraded the 3D print with threads because the coupling would push out during printing.
@joshua - there is a gap between to gear and the hole for Filament. And resistance and the filament buckles in the gap.
How ould you set this up for lets say a Ultimaker 2?
is the plastic design of the extruder different on the E3 compared to the E3 Pro? I have several E3 Pro’s built in the same year as this video was made, and they print Ninjaflex fine completely stock.
Great Video!
Do I have to remove the modification if I want to print normal PLA/ PETG again?
No it works fine with all filaments.
Do you have to remove your modification in order to go back to printing something else? Or can you leave your modification on for all types of filament?
I would say it would be fine as all that v shape is doing is providing additional support for the flexible filament.
Hello it's Mike again I just wanted to know I've just ordered ninjaflex and I'm using your ninaflex profile but how much infill would you use for the octopus as a test run. Be safe mike from England. 👍
I think my profile defaults to 25%
@@FilamentFriday yeah it's is but I didn't no if that was OK for flexi. That's great keep up with the great channel be safe.
Mike👍❤️
@@FilamentFriday it's printed your cube great thanks for your profile's. Keep safe mike💯👍
what mine i did not update the extruder and my ender 3 print it fine think its some of the older ones there can't print it
Actual 85A ninja flex?
i got to test sunlu tpu and have test ninja flex from a dealer in danmark and works fine on my ender 3 with out any updates to my extruder
After the mod can u print "normal" hard material? Thx
Yes. Works fine with all filaments.
@@FilamentFriday abo and 👍
Hey chep, thanks for your videos. Your filament guide has a new bracket to hold the cable but i was unable to find it on thingiverse. Any help ? Thanks a lot
Beautiful! Man I am just dying for the 10th to come so I can start that job and two weeks later buy that goddamn Ender 3 🤤
Thanks. Use the link in my description and get it from Banggood for low price. If you are in USA get it from there USA warehouse for quicker shipping and lower price.
@@FilamentFriday oooo thanks! I'll be sure to use it! It'll be valid for at least a month right?
Yes
@@FilamentFriday Awesome! Anything specific I need to do when purchasing?
Nope. Just the link and then select USA warehouse.
Awesome! Definitely have to try this on my CR-10 mini. :)
Brilliant video. Thank you so much for this. This solved all my problems 👏👏👏
Hi. Is it not necessary to also use a low-friction Bowden-tube for flex materials?
Thank you Chep ,great work as always. My questions are , "does the tpu give off any bad odours and is it stored the same way as pla?"
No odors and Yes store in sealed bag.
Would this be compatible on the ender 3v2, I'm new to 3d printing and wanted a V2 to start but figured a direct drive extruder would be the better option, then came across this mod and wanted to know - thanks
Yes it compatible
@@FilamentFriday wow that's awesome to hear, thanks CHEP, awesome channel you have - thank you
Hey Chep. Find your channel when I bought my ender 3 v2. Amazing work. I'm trying to print tpu, and I get blobs and zits all over the print. Nothing I do seems to improve it.
Possible needs to be dried out. TPU absorbs moisture.
@@FilamentFriday thanks Chep. I used the same tpu and the same stl on my prusa i3 and it came out perfect. It's something about travel or retraction or something that makes the filament ooze. And after every retraction it spits more than needed and leaves a blob.
Thank you. I made extruder as in this videó and I can print TPE!! I have a question, with this extruder can I print Pla and Petg too, or I have to change the extruder to older if I want print other filament?
You print any filament with it.
@@FilamentFriday thank you!!
Chep do I need to add the extra tubing? Or is their a version that dosnt need it?
You need to add it.
Great Video, what hardware upgrades do i need for my (Stock) Ender 5?
Same as Ender 3
Great video Chuck! :) :) :) Very helpful.
This is a great video. You should be more popular
I agree ;) Thanks!
printing TPU just fine on the ender 3 at 30mm/s havent tried faster, (i have an i3plus with flexion to compare it with), havent tried ninjaflex on the ender though :)
Is tpu Easier to remove from the build plate then PETG
It can be. It depends. Some people can’t get PETG to stick.
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Interesting project and solution 👍😀
Since you can't use retraction with flexible filaments, you can reduce stringing by enabling 'Avoid crossing outline for travel movements' under the Advanced tab and setting the value to about 20, as Maker's Muse has suggested in his flexible guide ua-cam.com/video/fTJz6vMvtJ8/v-deo.html
I actually use this option for any filament when I want the travel movements to occur inside the model to hide stringing.
Yeah, Angus commented on this video a few days ago to do that.
Ha! That's what I get for not scrolling down.
Great video. Makes me want to do the same to my CR-10s.
Yes, it will work there as well.
Dat's REAL UPGRADE for FREE THX man.. i definetly try this with my mashine.. (not exacly this one but bowden too) i hate flex spagety
What screw is used for the idler arm? I lost mine and am looking for a suitable replacement
Look on eBay, you'll find the right one. Edit: the Ender 3 uses an M3 screw. It's socket type. I have a metal extruder so it's probably longer than the stock screw. You'll have to find a suitable replacement or order an M3 screw assortment.
Thanks for this video. Is it compatible also with TRONXY XY-2 Pro extruder ?
Not sure.
Ender 2 vs ender 3? I would like to print flexible filament as well. I have not assembled a 3d printer before and was wondering which one I should get considering quality of printing and ease of assembly
Ender 3. It had a bigger build area and is about the same price.
Hi try to use TPU on my ender 3, but why the layer does not stick with others? the walls just separate away especially when i squish it.. do you know what cause the problem? thanks
Is the filament old?
@@FilamentFriday it's new one, just got it from local e-commerce.
You can try a higher temp. Otherwise I’m not sure.
can you drill a 4mm hole and put the little bit of ptfe on the stock part?
Probably.
Awesome! Where can I get the filament guide that you have there in red?
The third and fourth link in the description link to the printable file.
It's possible you can modify the existing extruder frame to fit the tubing and simply cut the end to the arrowhead shape.
the bowden tube of my crx doesnt fit?
hi Chep. Great video. I have an E3 Max. Will this same adapapter work on this machine too. Trying to print in TPU for the first time. Any suggestions very much welcome.
I found with testing, that the most important part is finding a way to get a bit of PTFE tubing between the frame of the extruder, and the gears.
What you are trying to do is guide the flexibles, with no escape path. On the inlet side, there is less worry, but after the gears, it's trying to mash up and can slip out the side, or just gum up. (I avoided retractions for this reason, but this CHEP's solution is much better.
No matter the design, focus on that 10-15mm between the extruder gears, and where it meets the tubing. The metal or plastic 'funnel' looks accepting; but the filament will* escape.
The pointed shape of the tubing that butts against the gears, to provide a perfect path is what you are aiming for.
This can be adapted to any* extruder design if you focus on what needs to happen to put tubing in that spot. - for me, it meant using a drill bit to widen the plastic hole to fit the tubing, then cut to shape (arrowhead).
Hope this helps!
@@easymac79 thanks Kyle. I did try it, but found very fiddly. Bit the bullet and bought a Sprite Pro direct drive. Prints TPU with no fuss. Very clean prints across the board.
Great video! Plan on trying this soon.
I am still new to the 3D printing scene. Does the extruder upgrade work with regular PLA filament as well? or will I have to change that attachment as I need to upgrade with ninjaflex?
Works with all filament.
Hey CHEP first off great content and thank you for spending the time to help the community. I printed the same exact way you did (at least i think i do) even the same octopus but for some reason the top of the head on mine caved in slightly and had gaps. I printed with no infill or support and 6 layer shell 0.3 layer height. What do you think caused this?
Same speed? I believe I used 10 mm/s
@@FilamentFriday yes sir same speed. It took 3 hours 58 minutes the whole print was smooth except the last few top layers
My filament slips in the PTFE tube at the beginning. I see the filament buckle a little bit in the tube which result giving me gaps between the layers. It extrudes not the whole amount? What should I do ? I have the ender 3
That probably is because the stock PTFE tubing that comes with the Ender 3 has a bit bigger inner diameter than the capricorn PTFE tubing he's using.
Hi, this is a great video, but what if I don’t use simplify3D but cura? Do you have any suggestions? Kind regards.
Yes, my ninjaflex profile for Cura.
ua-cam.com/video/1GNDxvxpWr8/v-deo.html
3DPrinterOS is a helpful, easy to understand slicer which is what I use. It's all online an it's all free, so you don't have to pay money or download any files.
so i printed your improved version and i cant seem to get the capricorn tubing to stay in the drive. it doesnt fit tight at all. i bought the exact stuff you have linked
Is tpu hard to get into the Bowden tube at all
A little bit.
If I get under extrusion it’s probably because the Capricorn tube is grinding up against the wheels right?
Maybe
A big thanks for your time and great videos. And a question... If I perform this mod I'm worried that changing filaments will cause that little piece of Capricorn tubing that you placed in the filament path will get drawn back into the idler wheel/gear space as I pull my old filament out of the extruder. I don't typically just execute a E- move to reverse the extruder to eject the old filament during a change. I carefully pull it out by hand while pressing the idler arm out of the way. Is this going to make it a serious hassle to change filaments?
Hasn’t been for me and I yank it out.
Totally worked on my ender 3 at first.
I could print 4 pieces with the flexible filament.
But now I cannot print anymore. I start printing and it suddenly stops extruding. The gears move but the filament is not pushed. It slips. I changed the nozzle and have the same results.
It does start the print but eventually stops extruding. I have no idea how to fix this. For PLA and ABS extrudes normally.
What is happening with the TPU? I am using 230 degrees and 15mm/s, exactly the same as I did for the other pieces thats printed fine.
There is resistance somewhere. Check PTFE.
CHEP ok. Just did. I changed the ptfe for a new one and also the nozzle again. The path is clear. Believe it or not, now it extrudes filament out of the extruder! I checked the extruded printed piece and the small ptfe “snake” shape inside and it looked ok. I cannot believe how I printed 4 pieces perfectly and now I cannot print flexible any way.
I am trying to print airtight ninjaflex actuator, have any tips for getting rid of microscopic holes?
hello with all 3d prints theres normaley microscopic holes, prhaps test a bit with some epoxy resin or latex , a thin coat can be flexible
What do you mean by actuator? Your best bet is to print something smooth, then silicone mold it, then mold it again to get your flexible part if it's that important.
Can I use these tpu profile whenever I wanna use tpu in my prints?
Would Ninja Flex Filament work on the Ender 3 Max Neo?
If you slow it down then yes.
What exactly is the advantage of Capricorn tubing?
Higher temperature resistance mainly. Also fits a little tighter in the couplings.
@@FilamentFriday Any hard data on temperature?
I'm in the laborious process of building my very first 3D printer, and I'd like it to be able to handle high temp filaments from the start.
www.captubes.com/specs.html
Doea it work with anet et4? I have one and its not possible to print with tpu :(
I try print tpu with glass bed + hairspray but it wont stick.. any advise ?
TPU usually sticks like glue. Not sure why your having an issue. Maybe it needs to be dried out. TPU does absorb moisture.
@@FilamentFriday my bed temp is 70°c for first layer then 0° c till printing finish.. any advise sir?
A glue stick solved my TPU-glass bed adhesion issues for tall, skinny prints.
Can you use it to make a gasket for an HHO Generator?
Don’t know. I’ve never tried it.
A hydro electric generator?
@@ipodtouch470 An HHO Generator makes Hydrogen gas using the Electrolysis method. The gasket separates the stainless steel plates from touching each other.
I wouldn't think so. The size of the hydrogen molecules is so small that it would surely leak somewhere between layers or on the not a 100% smooth surface. Try it out but I wouldn't have high hopes..
@@kentharris7427 just use shower pan liner, much cheaper and you can get it at a hardware store
try 3d pen with flexible filament
How you sent me over here I'm sure you remember it was just the last night from your other video where you install the direct drive? Anyway I actually tried to print this before my machine broke down and it printed just fine all those printing kind of crudely due to the feeling fan that I have but that's another story but at any rate it printed a tiny perhaps for mm hole I couldn't even begin to screw in the fitting on my cr-10 is there two different versions of this one for the smaller size the feeling? Because I noticed the one you use in this video would have worked fine but I printed it twice and both times it grenade a very small orifice. I printed this file one time and the improved version with the threads and both of them printed really tiny I don't understand it.
Do I need the tiny bit of tubing that looks sort of like a snake in there for it to work?
Yes, That’s the point.
why need that tube? cant it be printed together?
Probably. I prefer the filament going through PTFE though. It’s smoother.
Chep I don't understand what was different about the new part. Why did it work when the stock one didn't? Can you use that now for ALL your printing?
It has the section of PTFE to fill the gap between the gear and wheel where the soft filament can bind.
@@FilamentFriday Ahh, I see. Thanks.
Can that modified part be left in place for non flex filaments?
Yes
Hi there. Looks like it has been a good while since you made this video. Are you still finding this to hold up well for flexible printing on an Ender 3, or would you recommend going a different direction? Thanks in advance!
Specifically, would you recommend sticking with this or is the EZR a significant enough improvement.
EZR is the best choice
Great video! I have watched almost all your videos about the ender 3. I was wondering, a direct drive extruder could help too to print ninja flex without this modifications? Thank you in advance
Yes it would.
Great video Chep. I tried to duplicate your success, but failed dramatically. I printed the modified extruder, that works fine. I've tried the flexi octopus with Filaflex 82A, Flexy 96A and Flexy2 98A. All three had filament separation at the top of the octopus head. I'm running Cura 3.6 with .3mm layer height, no retraction, 3 top and bottom layers and Wall Line Count is 6. Any idea what went wrong? I'm also running a CR-10 Mini. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
10mm/s?
@@FilamentFriday no, 15
How old is your Filament?
@@FilamentFriday I just received the sample pack last week. I forgot to mention that this is semi-flex. I did a couple of tests, printing only the top of the head and it's looking better. I don't recall all of the settings I changed but some of them are turning off the top layers, turning on adaptive layers and outer before inner walls.
@@FilamentFriday I've also been wondering, is it possible to convert the CR-10 Mini to a Direct extruder?
CHEP have you done any 3Dlabprint airplanes i am not having any luck printing they come out stringy etc wont print inside structure on cura and when i use Simplify 3D program its so stringy and rough any help would be appreciated i cant find anyone that has a profile for this
CHEP, I have a pretty important question. Since i want to print this upgrade because i want to print flexibles, this is the way. But I am worried that in a few days when I upgrade to the dual drive extruder, or any metal extruder, this will not work. So my quesrion is does super flexibls tpu work with the winsinn extruder?
No neither works with very flexible. For that I recommend the EZR extruder. It works with all plastics and traps the filament so super flexible can’t escape. ua-cam.com/video/1GNDxvxpWr8/v-deo.html
Nice Job Thank-you for Sharing good information