I swear that you are the only person on youtube who can make a tutorial without also adding 10 minutes of nonsense filler, and I appreciate it greatly. Also, the tutorial itself was useful and great. Thanks.
@@RickyImpey Totally agree! nowadays for anything you have to see always 15 min minimum, most of the times unnecessary content of a video that could be 5-6 min. Ricky videos are great, all the information useful and clear
"bear in mind that the printer completes the layer and then move away from the print so that you can change the filament". Looked everywhere for this. Thank you!
I commented on another tutorial you had because it helped me so much. You seem to be seriously the only person making tutorials for 3D printers that are not only concise, but cover everything I need and seem to work first try. Thank you for being the best!
I can't thank you enough for this video!!. Extremely detailed and helpful. Creality has their way of making users life complicated but you my friend are their Achilles heel!!
I'm a newbie and I tried this tip using the slicer that came with the machine (Creality Slicer on the S1 Pro). It did not work. As a matter of fact, it didn't even add the script to the gcode. I downloaded Cura and it worked exactly as you described. So, I'll guess I should use Cura from now on, at least until I get a little more acquainted with 3D printing. Thanks for this video!
I have just tried a test print sliced with Creality Cura and it worked fine for me, although I was unsure it was going to restart until I noticed it was waiting for the nozzle temperature to settle causing a small delay
After 5 fails of filament change scripts, i search my way to this video. Now it finally works, unfortunatly not in the best way how it should be like, with the screen and filament pass trough. But whatever we can go further now, thanks for the effort taken to explain.
Thank you Ricky! Legend! I have been fighting with filament changes on my Creality CR-5 Pro H since I got it 2 years ago, and your video finally got it sorted for me! The only thing with the CR-5 Pro H is that you have to hit the PAUSE button, then hit YES to actually put it in pause. Then the PRINT button is displayed and the print can then be restarted.
Oh my gosh you continue to be my saving grace. I have no idea why you aren't always FIRST in my search results. The cycle continues of me searching for an answer and getting super frustrated at the lack of results until I find your video. I will say with my printer, when you hit the stop button it asks if you want to stop or pause... so you have to pause, THEN you can continue. Probably just a difference in version but wanted to explain in case anyone else had the same difference.
btw the tipp you showed with pushing filament a bit in, before pulling it out, you wrote me a while ago in a comment on your video. It was the best tipp somebody ever gave me on my 3d printer!
Have this exact printer too. Finally a really good video about this "problem" ! My first successful attempt was with a keyring too :) With your method it should be a lot easier now.
Just tried it on my discontinued new Sermoon D1 but with Octoprint. Finally after a year of trying to get around Creality's stupidity of ignoring g-code for pausing to change filament we have a work around! MakerBot and Geeetech both work great with the g-code insert but Creality had to be different. Glad to have found this video. Great job.
For anyone having problems with the 29 Nov 22 firmware, here's how I solved it: I pressed pause and confirmed it, but then went into the parameters page at the top (where you could change temp, z-offset, etc.), then back to the main page. The play arrow appeared for me there and it resumed fine.
Great video showing a working “hack” - but Geeeezzzz… Creality should fix the M600. Color change in Prusa Slicer is sooo much more convenient. Anyways, congratulations for making it work!
Yes, really not what we should have to do to get the colour change to work! It feels like they have abandoned this printer now with all the newer shinier models that have come out since. It's a shame, this machine has some good hardware but the firmware has always been a bit lacking. It is a beast on klipper though! Thanks for the comment, love your channel👍
Great video! I have been so frustrated going from my Ender3v2 to my new addition Ender3 S1 Plus. I had way more control over my V2 and honestly prefer its firmware to the S1.
Very helpful video. My settings were a little different maybe from the newer firmware. You gave me the knowledge I needed to figure it out as many of your other videos. Thank you!
At last someone who is talking in a way that I can hear and not as if he is riding a motogp bike 😃 Thanks also for showing the menus in such a way that one knows where and what to look for. The comment about the version of Cura used is excellent as no other person does that 👏 😀 😄 👍🏻 👌
huge thanks ricky! i managed to successfully test one as i printed a microphone for my daughter to play with. made it easy for this noob to play around multiple colors in 1 print =). youre making my s1 pro experience a lot easier.
Great work! It didn't want to work for me but I figured it out. So, for those folks trying to do this with Cura 5.6 or perhaps with any other version of Cura that isn't 5.1.0, this won't work. It wouldn't work at all in that the S1 pro would just lock up. I noticed that the script seemed a bit different and decided to just install the old Cura 5.1.0. I had to use an old Ender 3 pro profile and copy over my printer gcode from 5.6 but in the end it worked! I hit the stop button to get the resume to restart but it didn't appear. Then I went into the top menu on the screen and backed out of it and the play button was there. Woowoo.
Another no-nonsense video from Ricky as I have found in many other of his videos. I am just about to try this method but am pretty confident it will work - Thanks again. Now tried it......It works!
One week until hurting my brain until I find this amazing video. Is the solution. Today 23-April-2024 there are some minor changes, but works fine. ¡Saludos desde España!
I use the filament change script for my 2 colour prints with my Ender3 v2. Though I always forget which layer to set it at… for that one I’m pretty sure (has been a while) you set it at the layer you want the new colour to start (rather than the last layer of original colour). Something I’ve also stated doing is placing a small block (from calibration shape plug-in) on the build plate near the model. Make sure it prints this block first on each layer & that the height of it is just above the colour change layer. This will act as a ‘buffer’ for making sure z height has reset correctly & also make sure nozzle is primed & any extra ooze ends up on this block rather than glooping up on the real print.
Any chance you could explain this a little.....simpler maybe the word I'm looking for lol, like do I set print "all at once" or "one at a time" etc.....sorry I'm still learning qnd this method sounds perfect, I just don't know exactly, how to set it up to do it... please and thankyou
@@mickyovts3872 the bit about the extra ‘buffer’ block? So you just need to add a small cube (in cura you can use the calibration shapes plug-in) and position it near the model (I leave about a 10mm gap). You need to leave it set as print all at once, and use the preview after slicing to confirm that the cube is printed first on each layer. If it’s not, reposition it on the build plate & test again. I think it needs to be in the front left to be printed first. Once you know it’s printing first, and you know what layer height you’re doing the filament change at, scale the height of the cube to be the height of your layer change (ideally you only want the buffer cube printing with the new filament for 1 or 2 layers). Again confirm this with the preview after slicing. Now when you get to printing it, after you change filament & start printing again. Slow the speed down on the printer to give you time to adjust z offset if needed as it’s printing the first new layer on the buffer cube. Similar to a first layer on the build plate you want to make sure it has enough squish, and also not dragging on the cube. Once you know it’s good, you can set print speed back to 100%.
Another outstanding video, you are my go-to, thank you. I was able to make it work, but found that by using the "stop" button it would end the print, hit "pause" twice then it says "continue ?" and works well. E3 S1 Pro..........thanks again.
Thank you so much! Finally, an easy way to do this. Just a note however. This will not work when using "print via USB". The print just sails right through the pause as if it's not there. You must use the SD card.
I just subscribed!!! I watched a bunch of other videos about color printing on the V3 SE and yours is the only one that showed exactly what I needed to do....I was happier than a Seagull with a french fry when I did what you said and it worked!!! Like @wrestlertown007 stated, it is refreshing that you make a tutorial video without adding a bunch of unnecessary fluff!!! Thank you, Ricky!!!
My Ender 3 S1 Pro is currently on the latest firmware (29Nov2022), although I believe only the display is updated with this release, and the mainboard firmware remains on the September2022 release. I have tried the pause at height, but although it does pause, there is no way to resume the print. I've tapped on the "stop" button and tapped on "continue", but it doesn't change back to a "start", the display stays on the "pause" and "stop" options. I've tried switching it off then back on, but it then just re-executes the pause on height command and displays the "pause" and "stop" options. If I do tap on the pause button, the display hangs on the going to home screen, and you then have to restart. The filament change script does actually work, it moves the extruder to the side, displays a message on the screen to say you must change the filament, then purges some filament, and then about 10 seconds later it starts automatically. The downside of this option is that you have to be ready to change the filament and you have to do it quickly, else it starts printing again no matter if you press a button on the screen or not. I would be so happy if in the meantime you have found a way to pause at height or layer in the Ender 3 S1 Pro with the latest firmware release...
I solved it by pressing pause and confirming it, but then going into the parameters page at the top (where you could change temp, z-offset, etc.), then back to the main page. The play arrow appeared for me there and it resumed fine.
I'm going to have to try this out. I have an S1(non-pro) with the professional firmware. I've been trying to get this to work, but I've just used the Marlin option. I'll have to give this a shot. Thanks!
Didn't work, for some reason my printer just ignores filament change and pause at layer commands. It does this both when using Octoprint and when using the SD card.
GRACIAS 😁. No hay ningún video en español que me haya servido, me ha costado un poco entender pero gracias a tu video pude imprimir un llavero de forma correcta en mi Ender 3 S1!
Ahoj z České republiky. Skvělé video a velmi užitečné pro mě jako nového majitele S1. Už jsem byl na rozpacích. I když díky novému firmwaru musím provést ještě jeden trik, který zde již někdo zmínil :D
About to give this a nudge on a Creality S1-Plus with Cura 5.7.1, some of the post processing code options are a bit different but all the stuff talked about in this video are still there. Should be good, cheers 🙂
Great Video as ever, I have learned so much from these. I managed to get a couple of multi-colour prints working a treat using this (or very similar method) a month ago.... and then I upgraded the firmware using the latest official creality screen firmware and printer firmware. The screen firmware 'upgrade' decided to remove the individual Play/Stop/Pause buttons so they all appear on 'one big button' now. Long story short I can't find a way of resuming after it has paused at the appropriate height. If anyone has had any luck please let us know!!
I had the same problem. A firmware update seems to have changed the behavior of the screen from the workaround in the video. If you are running OctoPrint you can just hit resume from there, but I could not figure out a way to do it from the touch screen.
I found a ridiculous work around. I am a proud newbie with an Ender 3 S1 Pro (touch screen) in 2023. It came with an apparently new firmware that works as described above. Here is how I got it to work. Do what the guy says up until the point where you are attempting to resume the print. As you said, hitting STOP, then CONTINUE, results in the PAUSE button staying the PAUSE button. However, if you CHANGE SOMETHING, for example, increase the print temp by one degree, THIS will turn the PAUSE button into a PLAY button. Then when you hit PLAY, you will get a CONTINUE/STOP dialogue. If you hit CONTINUE here, it will actually continue. I would rather not say how long it took me to figure out. It brought me great relief to find out that I am not the only one in this situation.
Thank you for this! I tried so many times, not realizing that my S1 Pro screen caused a bug. It does work, but I'm still troubleshooting too much filament shooting out when the next color starts.
So creality slicer and cura apparently now January 2023 are almost identical.. i followed these exact steps in creality and it worked perfectly on my S1 Pro.. thank you
I followed your instructions in the video, and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the tutorial! BTW, I bought my S1 last month and whatever firmware it has shows the play button during the filament change. No need to do the stop button trick anymore, I guess.
Is this ever a pain to accomplish on an Ender 5-S1. I've currently switched back to Cura, from Prusaslicer, just so I don't have to manually program it into every model needing a pause. It was my first printer, so I now understand why a 32-bit board and good firmware is essential. Thanks for the tips and I hope it works.
I'm running into the same issue as others are describing (with S1 Plus). But I found a solution; instead of pressing pause/stop, I would press the top of the touch screen (where the nozzle temp, bed temp, etc.) are; then press back; then the "play/stop" button show. Pressing on that allows me to continue with the print. I did not put any pre/post gcode (aka M300 from the video or write blah). It doesn't work with M0; only works with M25 for me. Hope others try this and see if that solves it for them.
Thank you, it also works for me. After Changing filament i have do klick on the icon for the nozzle temperature, then klick back and play. After this i've to klick continue. Also many thanks to Ricky for this Video
Thanks. For info: Works ok with Cura 5.7.2 & on Ender 3 v2 ... & still far better than the built in Filament Change script. It would presumably help to insert an M18 code to disable the extruder stepper during the pause (to make loading up the new filament a bit easier) but I haven't tried that yet. Cheers
Hi, I followed your instructions with cura and a sovol sv06+. The printer paused and didn't remove the filament. The display on the printer says "wait for filament change to start". There are no buttons on the screen to start. It did not automatically remove the filament. What should I do?
This doesn't work with latest firmware it appears. It appears the "stop" functionality is now different and doesn't allow for this "bug" anymore. Any ideas?
Do you have any update with the firmware on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. apparently the stop button trick to get it to restart no longer works. Your videos have been great, but I am banging my head on this one.
Thanks Ricky! Great explanation! I am having trouble with a blob or smear where the new color starts. I have tried wiping the nozzle and hitting the play button simultaneously, but my first two attempts have had this issue. It seems a small retraction would be needed to fix this.
Hi, do you have your 'extrude amount' set to zero like mine? If you do then there is not a huge amount you can do to avoid that little blob with only this post processing script. You could manually edit the g-code but it starts to get a little complicated then.
I also updated the firmware and the process described in the video stopped working, as several people have pointed out. After doing some searching around I was able to get a filament change to work by changing the Method to Marlin (M0). As M0 on its own does not work with this firmware, it needs to be given a seconds pause parameter i.e. M0 should become M0 Sxxx where xxx is a number of seconds. I therefore added a 'Search and Replace' script using Search = M0 and Replace M0 S060. This must be after all the Pause at layer height scripts. It replaces each occurrence of M0 in the generated gcode file with M0 S060. When I printed the file I had the printer pause at the correct layer, in the park position. At this time I pulled out the filament to replace it. This caused the printer to prompt for new filament of course and after inserting new filament and tapping Yes and then Continue on the screen the print head moved to the back Y position and purged some filament. Then it went to the park position and waited a bit (I guess it was completing the 60 second pause) and then resumed the print and completed successfully. Still not ideal because you have to monitor the print closely and be there when the pause happens and give yourself time in advance to pull the filament out during the pause but at least you can resume. It is difficult to estimate when a certain layer will be printing of course. Not being able to resume using the printer interface is a huge issue which really needs to be addressed. Creality is supposed to be a major player. I tested a second time by not monitoring my print and when I got back after enough time the print was just completed; in other words it paused at some point and then just continued again after the pause time.
Thanks for this. What firmware are you running? The reason i haven't upgraded is that I don't want to lose the colour change feature. It really shouldn't be this hard.....
This video was just excellent. I’ve gotten it to work, thanks. Does leave a 5mm goop even with the extrude amount zero and wiping just before resuming. Look like I shouldn’t even do a firmware update. Making sign, 8, all with the same problem. I just kinda dremel the goop off. Not even noticeable on the larger ones. Layers go on to of it, but the head does skip.. Going to try and be more gentle inserting at the changeover.
This worked...The S1 Plus Firmware is even more janky that the s1 pro...Instead of making meaningless changes every year that actually don't make a better machine...i wish they would spend some time and make their firmware work.
When I try this, I don’t get the same dialogue box about yes/no stop printing. I get one that says to confirm my selection between pause and stop. When I hit X on that dialogue box, I still don’t have a play button to resume printing and the printer just sits there. I’d really appreciate help!
It seems that different methods are needed for different firmware unfortunately. My S1 Pro is currently running klipper firmware with the Sonic Pad. Hopefully someone else can help with this.
Just tried this. The pause worked as expected but standby temp did not work and the nozel cooled so fast I couldn't fully extrude to the new color, I had to just resume and let it run through itself. Wondering if the Marlin method instead of BQ would fix this?
When restarting a print after a layer pause and color filament change how do you change the extrude amount?? It always leaves a bubble on my print when it restarts.
I’m having a problem where after I replace the filament and press play, it resumes printing in mid air ruining my print. I tried twice and both times did the same thing. I have the exact same settings as in the video but it’s not working for me. Any suggestions? I’m printing on Ender 3 V2 Neo
We have recently brought two Ender 3 S1 pro printer. We are facing a issue of filament breaking inside the extruder frequently. I don't know the reason behind it. Is the problem with extruder or is it due to filament.
I have an ender 3 pro that I can't flash new firmware to as it turns it into a brick. So I'm going to try this, I'll come back and let you know if it worked. Hopefully today but if not, soon.
what abouit Ender 3 S1 PLUS????? It ignores pause at height, filament changes, ect.....I am using Cura 5.2.1. I created a Ender 3 S1 profile and simple made the build volume match. Any help is MUCH appreciated!!!!!
Having this problem with SOVOLO6 plus I gave it a go but the buttons don’t change. Weirdly I have somehow restarted it with an accidental screen touch but I can’t reproduce.Saving the Z offset move the print head back to start position but I’m completely stuck now
This helped a lot but when printing from PC connection, the pause only last like 10 seconds then it auto resumes not giving me time to change filament is there a way to stop it till I am ready
hellow, when i use the code the same way that the video show, my Z axis goes when the pause i started, but when resume the print does not comes down again, si it starts printin like 0.5mm above the las layer before the pause
Worked perfectly on my ender 3 S1 pro.. Thank you very much for the info I have a question . after the pause there is an extra layer on the outside of my printer then it goes back to printing perfectly. What settings should i change to fix this problem? Thanks for your time and keep the video's coming...
Is there a way to print multi colors on same layer? One way I know is to try and print the one color first then print the other color around it with Z-hop to avoid hitting the already printed layers, but I would like to know if it can be done in a way like pause at height?
hi, great video, i have the same ender 3 s1 pro, but my display when im printing has the time remaining info below the progress circle, this is a minor deference with my display but the problem for me with this method is that when i press the stop icon on my display it does not have a "yes" or "no" it says "pause" or "stop" and if i press stop it stops the print. If there is a way to fix this problem for me please let me know.
ok it worked 1 time lol. but now after pause if i hit change printer speed and change it lets me go thru the reg pause sequence so far about 10+ times. I'm going to clipper in a few weeks I think. wish crealty would but more effort in the firmware.
Can you do a video on how to fix settings not saving on the S1 Pro? i can get material temps and fila change to work but I can not get print speed to save to the printer. I've tried slicing on Creality, Cura and Pursa all will not save to the printer.
Would you suppose this would work the same for the S1 Pro with a Sonic Pad? Do you have a video for that if there is a difference? You've literally helped me setup my S1 Pro and "quirks" is putting it nicely 🤣
for PLA: normally while changing the filament I always set the temp to 220 C so that it can easily ooze out. but my print temperature is always 198 C so in this case in cura post processing script if I set the standby temp to 220 C will this set the temp to 220 C for the rest of the print as well or will it switch back to 198 C
Love the video, but I'm having no luck getting my brand new Ender 3 S1 pro to resume after I successfully change the filament at the layer I've specified. As seen in the video, I can choose stop or pause, but I never get a screen with the play, or resume button. I am a newbie but I've tried this in the Creality slicer and the Cura slicer with the same results. Might I have slightly different firmware installed, or am I overlooking something very obvious?
So I just updated the firmware on the printer to the latest, but it didn't help. Still cant resume. I couldn't update the screen software because I don't have a compatible TF card. I really need to make some two color badges, so I might bite the bullet and buy a Sonic pad for this.
I'm currently testing my S1 Pro with a Sonic Pad and it is really good. Unfortunately it means that I can't test the filament change with the latest Marlin firmware just yet.
Hello, Thanks for this! I have the same printer and this will help me a lot. Also I want to ask you what can be the cause of a problem I have since 2 weeks aprox.: I started to notice that the first layers of my prints are rough, after some test I think the nozzle is not getting enough height by the Z axis when the layer changes, so I thought that the cause were the eccentrics of the Z axis (maybe too tight) but after loosen them a little, doing some tests and put them back to the original tightness I concluded that it wasn't the eccentrics. Also it is not the metal cylinders of Z axis (those who turn by the z motors), they are greased and still got the first layers rough (mostly from 3rd layer to 10st one) I found that the nozzle collides with the previous layer when traveling from one point to another, it actually makes a sound when it happens like "tratratratrac" (The sound is because the collision of the nozzle with the lower printed layers, specially infills but also the walls). I'm losing my mind trying to figure out what it can be if the eccentrics are good. What should I do? :( Thanks!
It sounds like you've done quite a lot to check that the z height is moving up correctly. Have you checked to see if you might be over-extruding? If too much filament is going down then the nozzle will hit it when it does the next layer. Also, if your z offset is out and the nozzle is too close, your first layers will be rough as the filament is pushed sideways instead of laying down nicely.
@@RickyImpey Thanks for the answer. The printer has only 1 month of use and really don't think that's over extrusion; when I print the typical calibration cube, it does very well but when I print a larger piece, like the planter you show in this video is when it start happening. I wonder if could be the z axis couplings that the motors moves, maybe too tight or thick? The worst part is that almost every UA-cam video about calibrating Z axis doesn't even talk about the couplings. Also they always does with printers that have only one Z cylinder so the process is different.
I swear that you are the only person on youtube who can make a tutorial without also adding 10 minutes of nonsense filler, and I appreciate it greatly.
Also, the tutorial itself was useful and great. Thanks.
Glad you like the video. I hate it when people put unnecessary content in their videos so I try to keep things to the point.
@@RickyImpey Totally agree! nowadays for anything you have to see always 15 min minimum, most of the times unnecessary content of a video that could be 5-6 min. Ricky videos are great, all the information useful and clear
True, this guy is the only one giving actual information without have you go through many unnecessary things and steps. Simple and to the point!
"bear in mind that the printer completes the layer and then move away from the print so that you can change the filament". Looked everywhere for this. Thank you!
I commented on another tutorial you had because it helped me so much. You seem to be seriously the only person making tutorials for 3D printers that are not only concise, but cover everything I need and seem to work first try. Thank you for being the best!
That's great to hear, thanks for the comment👍
I can't thank you enough for this video!!. Extremely detailed and helpful. Creality has their way of making users life complicated but you my friend are their Achilles heel!!
I'm a newbie and I tried this tip using the slicer that came with the machine (Creality Slicer on the S1 Pro). It did not work. As a matter of fact, it didn't even add the script to the gcode. I downloaded Cura and it worked exactly as you described. So, I'll guess I should use Cura from now on, at least until I get a little more acquainted with 3D printing. Thanks for this video!
I have just tried a test print sliced with Creality Cura and it worked fine for me, although I was unsure it was going to restart until I noticed it was waiting for the nozzle temperature to settle causing a small delay
After 5 fails of filament change scripts, i search my way to this video.
Now it finally works, unfortunatly not in the best way how it should be like, with the screen and filament pass trough.
But whatever we can go further now, thanks for the effort taken to explain.
Thank you Ricky! Legend!
I have been fighting with filament changes on my Creality CR-5 Pro H since I got it 2 years ago, and your video finally got it sorted for me! The only thing with the CR-5 Pro H is that you have to hit the PAUSE button, then hit YES to actually put it in pause. Then the PRINT button is displayed and the print can then be restarted.
Oh my gosh you continue to be my saving grace. I have no idea why you aren't always FIRST in my search results. The cycle continues of me searching for an answer and getting super frustrated at the lack of results until I find your video.
I will say with my printer, when you hit the stop button it asks if you want to stop or pause... so you have to pause, THEN you can continue.
Probably just a difference in version but wanted to explain in case anyone else had the same difference.
btw the tipp you showed with pushing filament a bit in, before pulling it out, you wrote me a while ago in a comment on your video. It was the best tipp somebody ever gave me on my 3d printer!
Have this exact printer too. Finally a really good video about this "problem" ! My first successful attempt was with a keyring too :) With your method it should be a lot easier now.
Just tried it on my discontinued new Sermoon D1 but with Octoprint. Finally after a year of trying to get around Creality's stupidity of ignoring g-code for pausing to change filament we have a work around! MakerBot and Geeetech both work great with the g-code insert but Creality had to be different. Glad to have found this video. Great job.
Glad it helped!
I kept having so many issues with changes. This video was perfect!
For anyone having problems with the 29 Nov 22 firmware, here's how I solved it: I pressed pause and confirmed it, but then went into the parameters page at the top (where you could change temp, z-offset, etc.), then back to the main page. The play arrow appeared for me there and it resumed fine.
Great tip for the latest firmware, thanks👍
Cheers, Woody and Ricky. Thanks to you two, I just successfully embedded a magnet in my print.
YES!!!!!!! This worked for me on my S1 Pro purchased January 2023. The method in the video did not work fully.
Didn't work for me. I pressed pause and when confirmed I gett Auto back home please wait.... and it freezes 😢
Merci Merci Merci
Great video showing a working “hack” - but Geeeezzzz… Creality should fix the M600. Color change in Prusa Slicer is sooo much more convenient. Anyways, congratulations for making it work!
Yes, really not what we should have to do to get the colour change to work! It feels like they have abandoned this printer now with all the newer shinier models that have come out since. It's a shame, this machine has some good hardware but the firmware has always been a bit lacking. It is a beast on klipper though! Thanks for the comment, love your channel👍
Great video! I have been so frustrated going from my Ender3v2 to my new addition Ender3 S1 Plus. I had way more control over my V2 and honestly prefer its firmware to the S1.
Yes, it needs some work by Creality. Definitely feels half baked at times.
Very helpful video. My settings were a little different maybe from the newer firmware. You gave me the knowledge I needed to figure it out as many of your other videos. Thank you!
What a brilliant video, and I've found even further instruction for newer firmware by reading the comments. That's a sub, thank you!
nice to see a tutorial that's usefull and clearly explains every step. I have tried it and it worked perfectly!!!!! Thank you, keep up the good work!
At last someone who is talking in a way that I can hear and not as if he is riding a motogp bike 😃
Thanks also for showing the menus in such a way that one knows where and what to look for. The comment about the version of Cura used is excellent as no other person does that 👏 😀 😄 👍🏻 👌
Ha ha, glad you liked the video, thanks for the comment 👍
I did exactly what you said to swap filamand it worked perfectly. Thank you very much 😊
Finally a proper guide for doing this on the ender 3 S1 Pro! Worked perfectly for me in the very first try.
Glad it helped
huge thanks ricky! i managed to successfully test one as i printed a microphone for my daughter to play with. made it easy for this noob to play around multiple colors in 1 print =). youre making my s1 pro experience a lot easier.
Great to hear, thanks 👍
Works much better than the filament change script. Thank you!
Thank you for the procedures to get it to work. Easy when you know how! Definitely subscribed.
This was the 2nd tutorial I tried and this one actually worked- good job and thank you!
Great work! It didn't want to work for me but I figured it out. So, for those folks trying to do this with Cura 5.6 or perhaps with any other version of Cura that isn't 5.1.0, this won't work. It wouldn't work at all in that the S1 pro would just lock up. I noticed that the script seemed a bit different and decided to just install the old Cura 5.1.0. I had to use an old Ender 3 pro profile and copy over my printer gcode from 5.6 but in the end it worked! I hit the stop button to get the resume to restart but it didn't appear. Then I went into the top menu on the screen and backed out of it and the play button was there. Woowoo.
Great video. This worked very well. You've put together some great videos. Thanks for the insights!
Another no-nonsense video from Ricky as I have found in many other of his videos. I am just about to try this method but am pretty confident it will work - Thanks again. Now tried it......It works!
One week until hurting my brain until I find this amazing video. Is the solution. Today 23-April-2024 there are some minor changes, but works fine. ¡Saludos desde España!
Thanks, Ricky. I'll be trying this. In the meanwhile, I've learned quite a bit from you on post-processing.
I use the filament change script for my 2 colour prints with my Ender3 v2. Though I always forget which layer to set it at… for that one I’m pretty sure (has been a while) you set it at the layer you want the new colour to start (rather than the last layer of original colour).
Something I’ve also stated doing is placing a small block (from calibration shape plug-in) on the build plate near the model. Make sure it prints this block first on each layer & that the height of it is just above the colour change layer.
This will act as a ‘buffer’ for making sure z height has reset correctly & also make sure nozzle is primed & any extra ooze ends up on this block rather than glooping up on the real print.
Good tip👍
Any chance you could explain this a little.....simpler maybe the word I'm looking for lol, like do I set print "all at once" or "one at a time" etc.....sorry I'm still learning qnd this method sounds perfect, I just don't know exactly, how to set it up to do it... please and thankyou
@@mickyovts3872 the bit about the extra ‘buffer’ block?
So you just need to add a small cube (in cura you can use the calibration shapes plug-in) and position it near the model (I leave about a 10mm gap).
You need to leave it set as print all at once, and use the preview after slicing to confirm that the cube is printed first on each layer. If it’s not, reposition it on the build plate & test again. I think it needs to be in the front left to be printed first.
Once you know it’s printing first, and you know what layer height you’re doing the filament change at, scale the height of the cube to be the height of your layer change (ideally you only want the buffer cube printing with the new filament for 1 or 2 layers). Again confirm this with the preview after slicing.
Now when you get to printing it, after you change filament & start printing again. Slow the speed down on the printer to give you time to adjust z offset if needed as it’s printing the first new layer on the buffer cube. Similar to a first layer on the build plate you want to make sure it has enough squish, and also not dragging on the cube.
Once you know it’s good, you can set print speed back to 100%.
@@nodowt This is genius, and I think will solve my problem exactly. It always prints too high after pause.
I updated the firmware and then it worked with Creality Slicer 👍thanks
This 100% works on my firmware for the S1 (non pro) - Thank you for this.
Im looking forward to trying this on my 3 S1 as well! Glad to hear someone has had success.
Another outstanding video, you are my go-to, thank you. I was able to make it work, but found that by using the "stop" button it would end the print, hit "pause" twice then it says "continue ?" and works well. E3 S1 Pro..........thanks again.
I like it! I was specifically looking for a solution to the problem with the bug! Thanks for the useful video!
Great stuff, thanks for explaining this. Especially how to get the print started again!
Thank you so much! Finally, an easy way to do this. Just a note however. This will not work when using "print via USB". The print just sails right through the pause as if it's not there. You must use the SD card.
Testing this now! Let you know!
Thank you. Complete success with 2 colors.
I just subscribed!!! I watched a bunch of other videos about color printing on the V3 SE and yours is the only one that showed exactly what I needed to do....I was happier than a Seagull with a french fry when I did what you said and it worked!!! Like @wrestlertown007 stated, it is refreshing that you make a tutorial video without adding a bunch of unnecessary fluff!!! Thank you, Ricky!!!
My Ender 3 S1 Pro is currently on the latest firmware (29Nov2022), although I believe only the display is updated with this release, and the mainboard firmware remains on the September2022 release.
I have tried the pause at height, but although it does pause, there is no way to resume the print. I've tapped on the "stop" button and tapped on "continue", but it doesn't change back to a "start", the display stays on the "pause" and "stop" options. I've tried switching it off then back on, but it then just re-executes the pause on height command and displays the "pause" and "stop" options. If I do tap on the pause button, the display hangs on the going to home screen, and you then have to restart.
The filament change script does actually work, it moves the extruder to the side, displays a message on the screen to say you must change the filament, then purges some filament, and then about 10 seconds later it starts automatically. The downside of this option is that you have to be ready to change the filament and you have to do it quickly, else it starts printing again no matter if you press a button on the screen or not.
I would be so happy if in the meantime you have found a way to pause at height or layer in the Ender 3 S1 Pro with the latest firmware release...
I will do my best to update to the newest firmware and figure out the method again. Thanks for the comment.
I solved it by pressing pause and confirming it, but then going into the parameters page at the top (where you could change temp, z-offset, etc.), then back to the main page. The play arrow appeared for me there and it resumed fine.
@@WoodyKu thank you, it only works in that way on my ender as well
I'm going to have to try this out. I have an S1(non-pro) with the professional firmware. I've been trying to get this to work, but I've just used the Marlin option. I'll have to give this a shot. Thanks!
Didn't work, for some reason my printer just ignores filament change and pause at layer commands. It does this both when using Octoprint and when using the SD card.
I’m totally try this great video boss keep them coming
GRACIAS 😁. No hay ningún video en español que me haya servido, me ha costado un poco entender pero gracias a tu video pude imprimir un llavero de forma correcta en mi Ender 3 S1!
Ahoj z České republiky. Skvělé video a velmi užitečné pro mě jako nového majitele S1. Už jsem byl na rozpacích. I když díky novému firmwaru musím provést ještě jeden trik, který zde již někdo zmínil :D
Jsme rádi, že vám video pomohlo👍
About to give this a nudge on a Creality S1-Plus with Cura 5.7.1, some of the post processing code options are a bit different but all the stuff talked about in this video are still there. Should be good, cheers 🙂
I have never use this method, but I will the next time. Thanks for the tip.
Great Video as ever, I have learned so much from these.
I managed to get a couple of multi-colour prints working a treat using this (or very similar method) a month ago.... and then I upgraded the firmware using the latest official creality screen firmware and printer firmware. The screen firmware 'upgrade' decided to remove the individual Play/Stop/Pause buttons so they all appear on 'one big button' now. Long story short I can't find a way of resuming after it has paused at the appropriate height. If anyone has had any luck please let us know!!
This, also not getting this to work with the latest firmware.
I had the same problem. A firmware update seems to have changed the behavior of the screen from the workaround in the video. If you are running OctoPrint you can just hit resume from there, but I could not figure out a way to do it from the touch screen.
Same thing here... very frustrating when I find a solution but it does not work because of updated firmware. Has anyone found a workaround for this?
I am in the same boat. Neither it works with OctoPrint, because it says M0 command is suppressed.
I found a ridiculous work around. I am a proud newbie with an Ender 3 S1 Pro (touch screen) in 2023. It came with an apparently new firmware that works as described above. Here is how I got it to work. Do what the guy says up until the point where you are attempting to resume the print. As you said, hitting STOP, then CONTINUE, results in the PAUSE button staying the PAUSE button. However, if you CHANGE SOMETHING, for example, increase the print temp by one degree, THIS will turn the PAUSE button into a PLAY button. Then when you hit PLAY, you will get a CONTINUE/STOP dialogue. If you hit CONTINUE here, it will actually continue. I would rather not say how long it took me to figure out. It brought me great relief to find out that I am not the only one in this situation.
Thank you for this! I tried so many times, not realizing that my S1 Pro screen caused a bug. It does work, but I'm still troubleshooting too much filament shooting out when the next color starts.
Thanks Ricky, you have saved my day (again)
So creality slicer and cura apparently now January 2023 are almost identical.. i followed these exact steps in creality and it worked perfectly on my S1 Pro.. thank you
Yes, Creality Slicer is a re-branded older version of Cura.
I will apply this soon, thanks a lot mate!
I followed your instructions in the video, and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the tutorial! BTW, I bought my S1 last month and whatever firmware it has shows the play button during the filament change. No need to do the stop button trick anymore, I guess.
Oh really? That's interesting. Could you tell me what firmware you have so I can try it out please?
@@RickyImpey If I'm looking in the right place, it's 3.0.3.
Super sympa l'explication , merci j'y suis enfin arrivé avec le bq25
Legend, this was exactly what I was looking for. How on earth did you find out about the stop-nostop trick to get the play button back? Very nice.
Is this ever a pain to accomplish on an Ender 5-S1. I've currently switched back to Cura, from Prusaslicer, just so I don't have to manually program it into every model needing a pause. It was my first printer, so I now understand why a 32-bit board and good firmware is essential. Thanks for the tips and I hope it works.
Saved me again with this tutorial. Thank you
I'm running into the same issue as others are describing (with S1 Plus). But I found a solution; instead of pressing pause/stop, I would press the top of the touch screen (where the nozzle temp, bed temp, etc.) are; then press back; then the "play/stop" button show. Pressing on that allows me to continue with the print. I did not put any pre/post gcode (aka M300 from the video or write blah). It doesn't work with M0; only works with M25 for me. Hope others try this and see if that solves it for them.
Thank you so much! This is the only way it works for me right now! You are my part time hero now!
Thank you, it also works for me. After Changing filament i have do klick on the icon for the nozzle temperature, then klick back and play. After this i've to klick continue. Also many thanks to Ricky for this Video
Thank you it worked first time.🙂
Thanks. For info: Works ok with Cura 5.7.2 & on Ender 3 v2 ... & still far better than the built in Filament Change script. It would presumably help to insert an M18 code to disable the extruder stepper during the pause (to make loading up the new filament a bit easier) but I haven't tried that yet. Cheers
Perfect tutorial, thanks Ricky!
Thank you for this well explained video
Hi, I followed your instructions with cura and a sovol sv06+. The printer paused and didn't remove the filament. The display on the printer says "wait for filament change to start". There are no buttons on the screen to start. It did not automatically remove the filament. What should I do?
This doesn't work with latest firmware it appears. It appears the "stop" functionality is now different and doesn't allow for this "bug" anymore. Any ideas?
There is no good solution but either tweaking your gcode or using custom firmware. I'm also looking for better solution.
Do you have any update with the firmware on the Ender 3 S1 Pro. apparently the stop button trick to get it to restart no longer works. Your videos have been great, but I am banging my head on this one.
Thanks Ricky! Great explanation! I am having trouble with a blob or smear where the new color starts. I have tried wiping the nozzle and hitting the play button simultaneously, but my first two attempts have had this issue. It seems a small retraction would be needed to fix this.
Hi, do you have your 'extrude amount' set to zero like mine? If you do then there is not a huge amount you can do to avoid that little blob with only this post processing script. You could manually edit the g-code but it starts to get a little complicated then.
Thanks so much, you are the best
I also updated the firmware and the process described in the video stopped working, as several people have pointed out. After doing some searching around I was able to get a filament change to work by changing the Method to Marlin (M0). As M0 on its own does not work with this firmware, it needs to be given a seconds pause parameter i.e. M0 should become M0 Sxxx where xxx is a number of seconds. I therefore added a 'Search and Replace' script using Search = M0 and Replace M0 S060. This must be after all the Pause at layer height scripts. It replaces each occurrence of M0 in the generated gcode file with M0 S060. When I printed the file I had the printer pause at the correct layer, in the park position. At this time I pulled out the filament to replace it. This caused the printer to prompt for new filament of course and after inserting new filament and tapping Yes and then Continue on the screen the print head moved to the back Y position and purged some filament. Then it went to the park position and waited a bit (I guess it was completing the 60 second pause) and then resumed the print and completed successfully. Still not ideal because you have to monitor the print closely and be there when the pause happens and give yourself time in advance to pull the filament out during the pause but at least you can resume. It is difficult to estimate when a certain layer will be printing of course. Not being able to resume using the printer interface is a huge issue which really needs to be addressed. Creality is supposed to be a major player. I tested a second time by not monitoring my print and when I got back after enough time the print was just completed; in other words it paused at some point and then just continued again after the pause time.
Thanks for this. What firmware are you running? The reason i haven't upgraded is that I don't want to lose the colour change feature. It really shouldn't be this hard.....
This video was just excellent. I’ve gotten it to work, thanks. Does leave a 5mm goop even with the extrude amount zero and wiping just before resuming. Look like I shouldn’t even do a firmware update. Making sign, 8, all with the same problem. I just kinda dremel the goop off. Not even noticeable on the larger ones. Layers go on to of it, but the head does skip.. Going to try and be more gentle inserting at the changeover.
FYI: contacted Creality and they claim they are aware and working on a solution.
I really hope they do sort this, they've had enough time and sold enough machines.....
This worked...The S1 Plus Firmware is even more janky that the s1 pro...Instead of making meaningless changes every year that actually don't make a better machine...i wish they would spend some time and make their firmware work.
When I try this, I don’t get the same dialogue box about yes/no stop printing. I get one that says to confirm my selection between pause and stop. When I hit X on that dialogue box, I still don’t have a play button to resume printing and the printer just sits there. I’d really appreciate help!
It seems that different methods are needed for different firmware unfortunately. My S1 Pro is currently running klipper firmware with the Sonic Pad. Hopefully someone else can help with this.
Another great video. Is it possible to reverse this so the log is at the bottom and do a filament change on the first layer?
Just tried this. The pause worked as expected but standby temp did not work and the nozel cooled so fast I couldn't fully extrude to the new color, I had to just resume and let it run through itself. Wondering if the Marlin method instead of BQ would fix this?
Thank you for this!
Tried with Cura 5.4.0 and it worked.
thank you this worked on my si plus also. your my new hero
Ha ha, thanks. Glad it helped.
Do we know why it automatically resumes a few seconds after pausing now? or is this just a me problem?
When restarting a print after a layer pause and color filament change how do you change the extrude amount?? It always leaves a bubble on my print when it restarts.
I’m having a problem where after I replace the filament and press play, it resumes printing in mid air ruining my print. I tried twice and both times did the same thing. I have the exact same settings as in the video but it’s not working for me. Any suggestions? I’m printing on Ender 3 V2 Neo
What if it wasn't planned ? Can I just pause the printer and somehow manage to sneak the new filament into the extruder after pressing play again ?
We have recently brought two Ender 3 S1 pro printer. We are facing a issue of filament breaking inside the extruder frequently. I don't know the reason behind it. Is the problem with extruder or is it due to filament.
That's strange, I haven't had this with mine. When does it break?
I have an ender 3 pro that I can't flash new firmware to as it turns it into a brick. So I'm going to try this, I'll come back and let you know if it worked. Hopefully today but if not, soon.
i have been trying this but when it starts back up the y moves about 30mm and the z moves down to layer 0 and starts crashing into prints.
what abouit Ender 3 S1 PLUS????? It ignores pause at height, filament changes, ect.....I am using Cura 5.2.1. I created a Ender 3 S1 profile and simple made the build volume match. Any help is MUCH appreciated!!!!!
tryed with prusaslicer but print park on top of the model, how can i move the park outside the model?
excellent video- liked and subbed and didn't need anyone to ask me to
Having this problem with SOVOLO6 plus I gave it a go but the buttons don’t change. Weirdly I have somehow restarted it with an accidental screen touch but I can’t reproduce.Saving the Z offset move the print head back to start position but I’m completely stuck now
This helped a lot but when printing from PC connection, the pause only last like 10 seconds then it auto resumes not giving me time to change filament is there a way to stop it till I am ready
hellow, when i use the code the same way that the video show, my Z axis goes when the pause i started, but when resume the print does not comes down again, si it starts printin like 0.5mm above the las layer before the pause
Worked perfectly on my ender 3 S1 pro.. Thank you very much for the info
I have a question . after the pause there is an extra layer on the outside of my printer then it goes back to printing perfectly. What settings should i change to fix this problem? Thanks for your time and keep the video's coming...
I'm not sure what you mean by 'extra layer'. Do you mean that it lays down an external wall on your print?
Is there a way to print multi colors on same layer? One way I know is to try and print the one color first then print the other color around it with Z-hop to avoid hitting the already printed layers, but I would like to know if it can be done in a way like pause at height?
HI Ricky, thank you for this great video, but will this funktion still work if the Sonic Pad is connected ?
I haven't been able to test yet but i have a Sonic Pad on the way.
I tried to use this strategy with the BeagleCam but no dice, still works with your original instructions via SD card on S1 Pro with Cura 5.2.1
hi, great video, i have the same ender 3 s1 pro, but my display when im printing has the time remaining info below the progress circle, this is a minor deference with my display but the problem for me with this method is that when i press the stop icon on my display it does not have a "yes" or "no" it says "pause" or "stop" and if i press stop it stops the print. If there is a way to fix this problem for me please let me know.
ok it worked 1 time lol. but now after pause if i hit change printer speed and change it lets me go thru the reg pause sequence so far about 10+ times. I'm going to clipper in a few weeks I think. wish crealty would but more effort in the firmware.
Can you do a video on how to fix settings not saving on the S1 Pro? i can get material temps and fila change to work but I can not get print speed to save to the printer. I've tried slicing on Creality, Cura and Pursa all will not save to the printer.
Would you suppose this would work the same for the S1 Pro with a Sonic Pad? Do you have a video for that if there is a difference? You've literally helped me setup my S1 Pro and "quirks" is putting it nicely 🤣
Great job. It works!
for PLA: normally while changing the filament I always set the temp to 220 C so that it can easily ooze out. but my print temperature is always 198 C so in this case in cura post processing script if I set the standby temp to 220 C will this set the temp to 220 C for the rest of the print as well or will it switch back to 198 C
Love the video, but I'm having no luck getting my brand new Ender 3 S1 pro to resume after I successfully change the filament at the layer I've specified. As seen in the video, I can choose stop or pause, but I never get a screen with the play, or resume button. I am a newbie but I've tried this in the Creality slicer and the Cura slicer with the same results. Might I have slightly different firmware installed, or am I overlooking something very obvious?
unfortunately I have the same situation
So I just updated the firmware on the printer to the latest, but it didn't help. Still cant resume. I couldn't update the screen software because I don't have a compatible TF card. I really need to make some two color badges, so I might bite the bullet and buy a Sonic pad for this.
I'm currently testing my S1 Pro with a Sonic Pad and it is really good. Unfortunately it means that I can't test the filament change with the latest Marlin firmware just yet.
@@RickyImpey Thank you for your video. I want buy a Sonic Pad, the change color work fine? Or there are problem? Thank you
@@RickyImpey any update on this? Same setup with sonic pad and the ender 3 s1 pro.
Hello, Thanks for this! I have the same printer and this will help me a lot.
Also I want to ask you what can be the cause of a problem I have since 2 weeks aprox.: I started to notice that the first layers of my prints are rough, after some test I think the nozzle is not getting enough height by the Z axis when the layer changes, so I thought that the cause were the eccentrics of the Z axis (maybe too tight) but after loosen them a little, doing some tests and put them back to the original tightness I concluded that it wasn't the eccentrics. Also it is not the metal cylinders of Z axis (those who turn by the z motors), they are greased and still got the first layers rough (mostly from 3rd layer to 10st one)
I found that the nozzle collides with the previous layer when traveling from one point to another, it actually makes a sound when it happens like "tratratratrac" (The sound is because the collision of the nozzle with the lower printed layers, specially infills but also the walls).
I'm losing my mind trying to figure out what it can be if the eccentrics are good. What should I do? :(
Thanks!
It sounds like you've done quite a lot to check that the z height is moving up correctly. Have you checked to see if you might be over-extruding? If too much filament is going down then the nozzle will hit it when it does the next layer. Also, if your z offset is out and the nozzle is too close, your first layers will be rough as the filament is pushed sideways instead of laying down nicely.
@@RickyImpey Thanks for the answer. The printer has only 1 month of use and really don't think that's over extrusion; when I print the typical calibration cube, it does very well but when I print a larger piece, like the planter you show in this video is when it start happening. I wonder if could be the z axis couplings that the motors moves, maybe too tight or thick?
The worst part is that almost every UA-cam video about calibrating Z axis doesn't even talk about the couplings. Also they always does with printers that have only one Z cylinder so the process is different.