I must say that was brilliant. We moved into this off-gas bungalow 13yrs ago and have just kept 'using' the tank without giving it a second thought until I've noticed a slight smell of oil and a hint of the same when I touch the valve......I've been watching your Reillo burner vids for a while and used the info to help me no end. Now I've watched this I'll be completely renewing the tankmasker system come the spring. Thanks very very much for posting these vids. Why aren't you closer? 🙂👍🏴
Not boring at all! Great video! I just ordered a couple of EOGB/crossland 489 units for my van stock. The amount I come across that are fitted the wrong way around is unreal! Having a rotating body will make a real difference! Greetings from Arbroath, Scotland 🏴. Have a good week!
Great video thanks for taking the time out of your busy schedule to share your knowledge with us . I’ve been a heating engineer only on the gas and lpg , but recently trained on the oil as it interest’s me not doing a great deal but your vids are really helping 👍🏻
Great informative video Rob. I didn't actually know you could still get a filter element for the older style tankmaster with the deeper bowl. I think i have now replaced all mine with the newer style taskmasters. A small video section on replacing rope seals would be super useful. Ie, what sizes you carry, and a demonstration of you making up a replacement with the tape, adhesive etc. I know you touched on the sizes on your van tour. I've changed a few rope seals but usually just with the specific part number kit from the boiler spares list. Which I know is daft, as it's way more expensive and I could just make my own! I could probably do with replacing the rope seals on 2/3rds of the boilers I service. I know its not rocket science but no ones ever shown me how to do this properly. Many thanks again, John
Hi again Rob, just spent the morning removing the tankmaster valve (as everything was seized) and I've now managed to split it down into its numerous parts ready for repurchasing. My big query though is the sight tube (ST) and its components and so could you please offer me some guidance? We moved in about 13 years ago and our tank has never possessed a ST......although I do wonder whether one was fitted but has been removed/snapped off?? I have a few questions if I may.....is is the top threaded fitting on the main valve PART of the valve or part of the ST? As we never had a ST the void in the top of the valve was completely open to the elements and is now badly corroded but I've still managed to screw it off leaving clean threads on the main valve body. Does that mean this fitting has snapped off the ST? and so would a new ST come with that new threaded fitting? Linked to this is my other query in that there appears to be a hard rubber ball with a rubber stem protruding from the top 'open' end now that I've removed the threaded fitting. I can't see how any oil would be able to get past/through this rubber component when the ST pull valve is used. Should I be able to remove this rubber ball or, again, is it part of the main valve body? or part of the ST? I hope I've made sense. I don't like asking for help, but I've been trawling the web looking for info on all of an ST's components and a close-up of the main valve body top but can't find anything so I'm hoping you can offer some help. Many thanks
Hi. The sight tube comes with the thread to screw into the body. You need a Atkinson 4ft threaded sight tube complete. The ball is plastic not rubber . You should be able to get it out. There should be a small whole in it. If the unit is in a very bad state change the whole unit. ( Atkinson Tankmaster body complete.) Hope this helps! sorry in delay in replying. I am on my honeymoon. 🤣. Rob
@@BartonOilBurnerServices Hi Rob, no need to apologise and thank you very much for replying. Since posting I've been digging/reading around and got to physically view/handle a new ST. Between this and what I've learnt from you I'm content that I understand how the whole thing works. I'll now have a proper go at removing that blanking 'ball'.....if it comes out easily I'll treat myself to a new ST and a 'pull-to-view' valve but if it's stubborn I'm now happy to simply reinstate the whole thing (with a new filter) as it is and continue without an ST (done if for years so nothing new). Sorry for bothering you, thanks for the info and have a lovely time 🙂👍
Cheers Rob. Your videos are brilliant and being quite new to the oil industry I have learnt so much from you. Thank you for taking the time to do these videos every week for the benefit of others, I watch every single one without fail. Do you have any tips for when you are doing a brand new tank install to make sure the new isolation valve and filter on the outlet are made in properly and not going to leak before it is filled with thousands of litres of oil?!! I have my first install next week and I’m terrified it’s going to leak but by then it would be too late by the time you find out! I was thinking of filling it with water in advance to test it but then it’s going to be a pain in the backside to get all the water out to make sure the oil doesn’t get contaminated. Just wondering what you guys do? Also if you are struggling for ideas for a video would it be possible sometime for you to do one on Tiger Loops? I don’t really understand them! Thanks again Rob, you are a legend, and have a great and well deserved holiday! Cheers, Rob @ Clarity
Hi mate. Tiger loop on the list! stay tuned!. Do not fill the tank with water. Just trust yourself. Use ptfe and heradite as a seal. Do not over tighten and all will be ok. Use inserts in the oil line if you can! Ultra compact advanced filters are best in the oil tank also. Have a good one, Thanks for the comment and goodluck!
Great content as always! I’ve always thought that tank manufacturers should make a serviceable isolation valves as part of the tank, then we fit a second one with a bleed point in between the two.
@@BartonOilBurnerServices You too. I watch every episode and your technical stuff is brilliant. A full in-depth video on the different control boxes and the nozzles you carry would be great.
I look forward to your video’s every week now. Thanks for the time and effort you put into them
Thanks mate. I am glad you like them. Have a good week.
I must say that was brilliant. We moved into this off-gas bungalow 13yrs ago and have just kept 'using' the tank without giving it a second thought until I've noticed a slight smell of oil and a hint of the same when I touch the valve......I've been watching your Reillo burner vids for a while and used the info to help me no end. Now I've watched this I'll be completely renewing the tankmasker system come the spring. Thanks very very much for posting these vids. Why aren't you closer? 🙂👍🏴
Sorry we are not closer! Thanks for the lovely comment. Have a good weekend!
Brilliant! Really useful information guys, especially on the Atkinson tankmaster valve 😁👍👍
Thank you so much, glad you found it helpful! - Izzy
Thanks Rob for your explanation of oil tank things, its a different world to gas central heating !
Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks for the lovely comment! Have a good Easter!
super, excellent information and demonstration 👍
Thanks for the comment. Have a good weekend!
Not boring at all! Great video! I just ordered a couple of EOGB/crossland 489 units for my van stock. The amount I come across that are fitted the wrong way around is unreal! Having a rotating body will make a real difference! Greetings from Arbroath, Scotland 🏴. Have a good week!
Thanks mate and you!!
Great video thanks for taking the time out of your busy schedule to share your knowledge with us . I’ve been a heating engineer only on the gas and lpg , but recently trained on the oil as it interest’s me not doing a great deal but your vids are really helping 👍🏻
Gald they are helping and thanks for the comment
Great informative video Rob.
I didn't actually know you could still get a filter element for the older style tankmaster with the deeper bowl. I think i have now replaced all mine with the newer style taskmasters.
A small video section on replacing rope seals would be super useful. Ie, what sizes you carry, and a demonstration of you making up a replacement with the tape, adhesive etc. I know you touched on the sizes on your van tour.
I've changed a few rope seals but usually just with the specific part number kit from the boiler spares list. Which I know is daft, as it's way more expensive and I could just make my own! I could probably do with replacing the rope seals on 2/3rds of the boilers I service. I know its not rocket science but no ones ever shown me how to do this properly.
Many thanks again,
John
Thanks for the comment and you are not being daft at all. I will do a video on this sometime very soon. Have a good week. Rob
Hi again Rob, just spent the morning removing the tankmaster valve (as everything was seized) and I've now managed to split it down into its numerous parts ready for repurchasing. My big query though is the sight tube (ST) and its components and so could you please offer me some guidance?
We moved in about 13 years ago and our tank has never possessed a ST......although I do wonder whether one was fitted but has been removed/snapped off?? I have a few questions if I may.....is is the top threaded fitting on the main valve PART of the valve or part of the ST? As we never had a ST the void in the top of the valve was completely open to the elements and is now badly corroded but I've still managed to screw it off leaving clean threads on the main valve body. Does that mean this fitting has snapped off the ST? and so would a new ST come with that new threaded fitting?
Linked to this is my other query in that there appears to be a hard rubber ball with a rubber stem protruding from the top 'open' end now that I've removed the threaded fitting. I can't see how any oil would be able to get past/through this rubber component when the ST pull valve is used. Should I be able to remove this rubber ball or, again, is it part of the main valve body? or part of the ST?
I hope I've made sense.
I don't like asking for help, but I've been trawling the web looking for info on all of an ST's components and a close-up of the main valve body top but can't find anything so I'm hoping you can offer some help. Many thanks
Hi. The sight tube comes with the thread to screw into the body. You need a Atkinson 4ft threaded sight tube complete. The ball is plastic not rubber . You should be able to get it out. There should be a small whole in it. If the unit is in a very bad state change the whole unit. ( Atkinson Tankmaster body complete.) Hope this helps! sorry in delay in replying. I am on my honeymoon. 🤣. Rob
@@BartonOilBurnerServices Hi Rob, no need to apologise and thank you very much for replying. Since posting I've been digging/reading around and got to physically view/handle a new ST. Between this and what I've learnt from you I'm content that I understand how the whole thing works.
I'll now have a proper go at removing that blanking 'ball'.....if it comes out easily I'll treat myself to a new ST and a 'pull-to-view' valve but if it's stubborn I'm now happy to simply reinstate the whole thing (with a new filter) as it is and continue without an ST (done if for years so nothing new).
Sorry for bothering you, thanks for the info and have a lovely time 🙂👍
Great educational Tutorial Rob!
Simon
Thanks mate. Have a good one!
Cheers Rob. Your videos are brilliant and being quite new to the oil industry I have learnt so much from you. Thank you for taking the time to do these videos every week for the benefit of others, I watch every single one without fail.
Do you have any tips for when you are doing a brand new tank install to make sure the new isolation valve and filter on the outlet are made in properly and not going to leak before it is filled with thousands of litres of oil?!! I have my first install next week and I’m terrified it’s going to leak but by then it would be too late by the time you find out! I was thinking of filling it with water in advance to test it but then it’s going to be a pain in the backside to get all the water out to make sure the oil doesn’t get contaminated. Just wondering what you guys do?
Also if you are struggling for ideas for a video would it be possible sometime for you to do one on Tiger Loops? I don’t really understand them!
Thanks again Rob, you are a legend, and have a great and well deserved holiday!
Cheers, Rob @ Clarity
Hi mate. Tiger loop on the list! stay tuned!. Do not fill the tank with water. Just trust yourself. Use ptfe and heradite as a seal. Do not over tighten and all will be ok. Use inserts in the oil line if you can! Ultra compact advanced filters are best in the oil tank also. Have a good one, Thanks for the comment and goodluck!
thanks guys!!! 👍
👏 well done, another useful video.
Glad you liked it. Thanks mate and have a good weekend.
Great video as always Rob 👍
Thanks mate. Have a good weekend!
Great content as always!
I’ve always thought that tank manufacturers should make a serviceable isolation valves as part of the tank, then we fit a second one with a bleed point in between the two.
Thanks mate and agree with you on all the above as always. Have a great weekend!
Nice video. Very helpful as well. You deserve more subs with great content like this. Keep up the great work.
Enjoy your break.
Thanks for the lovely comment mate. More subs would be good! Have a good weekend.
@@BartonOilBurnerServices You too. I watch every episode and your technical stuff is brilliant. A full in-depth video on the different control boxes and the nozzles you carry would be great.
I try and carry loads of nozzles but I only have one brand. Do you carry others??
Where do you get most of your filter and spares from? hows?
Abgo spares in Wolverhampton. Thanks for the comment.