Broke down today in my 2003 Chevy 2500 LS, and was scratching my head when I noticed I lost braking as well. I knew it was a problem around the master cylinder as it was leaking. But didn’t notice any brake fluid leaking. I saw a line going to the back of master cylinder and was scratching my head until I ran into this video. Thank you now I will change both
Something New! Kenny, that was very interesting! I would have never guessed a power steering pump would be used for brake assist. Then again, you would have laughed if you watched me trying to find the power steering pump when I first got my 2013 Ford Explorer.
This happened to me this morning. I had not moved the truck for a couple of days. It was fine when I parked it, but the steering was locked up and the breaks would hardly hold. Thanks for the great video and explanation about the fix.
I followed the lines on my 2010 duramax and I think the way it works is that high pressure fluid goes from pump to hydroboost unit, and passes through via the other high pressure line to the steering box, then there is a return line from the steering box back to the reservoir. I think the rationale is you are typically not braking while steering, so the fluid can pass through the brake boost, at pressure, to assist the steering. I could be mistaken but I think that is how it works.
I had the bad surge tank cap on my 2007 classic for years, had the collapsed hose when cold, at first I didn't think it was the cap I checked it and replaced no more collapsed hose
Hey I have a 2005 Yukon SLT 5.3L automatic with 218,000 miles. All stock equipped. Doesn't make any noise of any kind, that's abnormal. Well kept and daily driver. I drove it out on the highway for 300 miles and when I exited Interstate it was in manual steering mode...stiff to turn like it had no pump at all. And the brakes were not boosted either. It's not the belt or fluids of steering or brakes...all good. No leaks. No codes. No smells. No noises of pump failure. It only does it at low rpms when coming to stop, under 700 rpm. It works fine when above that. And the brakes are unboosted when it does it also, but work. This is the pump I assume? Remove and replace eh? Suggestions of what pump brands you had success with? I'm eyeballing the O'Reily $72 special. Thank you!
Remember the Old's 350 diesel. They used the hydroboost too. Drove an '80 Cutlass that had been converted back to gas. Only thing I ever noticed is that in parking lots at low RPM sometimes I'd lose boost to the steering for a second. Just not enough fluid getting pumped through the system to handle all the extra braking and turning for parking maneuvers. Why does hydroboost exist? Diesels don't have manifold vacuum, so a vacuum booster isn't going to work. However, you can have a belt driven vacuum pump, my work van, Ford 350 7.3L had the vacuum pump. Basically just a diaphragm pump like the old cam eccentric fuel pumps. It was on the driver side and ran off the serpentine. If you find your brakes a little stiff or needing some extra oomph make sure the check valve on the booster is working and the grommet is sealing. If that's ok, the pump is a pretty easy job. A pain on the van, not so bad on the trucks.
These Bendix Hydro-Boost units are the same between manufactures. The systems can work both ways, pressure from the to PS, then to booster, or Booster first, then PS.
Yep, my best friend of 55 years, and his middle brother had 1998 astro vans. Both had the hydro boost systems (all did) Well, the brother went to replace a power steering hose that was leaking (he's a UPS truck driver for the past 40 years) Well, after he does this, his wife goes to drive her van. She lost PS/Brakes, so they towed it to the shop I worked at. Turns out, he must have gotten dirt n grit in the new line, while installing it. Whole area was nasty dirty etc. Well, turns out the PS pump shaft snapped in half, inside the PS pump! Hence no ps pump turning, no brakes or steering....I replaced the pump, and other ps line, and got it back up and driveable, I joked and told him to "Leave the wrenching to the pro's, stick to driving your semi" Seemed I was always at different points in time, having to redo mechanical stuff he'd try and made worse. But he did eventually get to the point of just not wanna deal with car problems , and call me up to fix what ever was broken.
Used to work at Sears Auto years ago and replace a hydroboost on a old G20 van. We had problems getting the air out of the system. Me and my coworker we're still learning at that time and a couple years later did get in a more advanced mechanic who fixed everything but never got in a leaking hydroboost to learn how to get the air out of the system. I think there was something different about that G20 van also. Hope you make another video only hydroboost on a G20 van. 😃 My knees are gone bad but I still work on my own cars and help out friends. New to this channel.Hope u make Videos for a long time.
IIRC some Chrysler products had a procedure involving a special cap to allow you to apply vacuum to the fluid reservoir while working the steering back and forth, and working the brakes. Maybe those had something similar.
Would like to know what cost im looking at .on mine its the power steering pump making my brakes hard to apply. Intermittent power steering goes out especially after driving awhile. I did not know they were tied together untill this video. Got my sub.
I had a hummer back in 08 fooling around in snow in a huge parking lot burned the ps pump. It was the worst experience driving back to my shop. In the middle of the night two feet on the brake and no ps stupid design. Considering they have been using it for years. You would think they would have redesigned the system so they don't leak or scrap it all together
I have a 08 2500 duramax that I've been having some issues with, whenever i turn the wheel or hit the brakes, they shake. Under the hood you can see the power steering pump and brake fluid reservoir shake really bad.
Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.
Is that pushrod adjustable? I replaced my Master Cylinder because pedal was going to the floor, and it looked very similar to the old one. However, now the booster is putting a preload on the MC and my brake fluid is getting trapped in the lines and applying my brakes when they get hot. Other boosters have a nut and threaded rod for adjustment.
@@rarefruit2320 I pulled the guts out of the old MC and put them in the new MC. My pedal is squishy, but works. I didn't replace the O-rings and that's probably what's worn out causing the pedal to feel squishy. So yes and no
Hello i have a 2005 2500hd(gas) where all my brakes are engaged continuously even while the truck is off. Ive changed the booster but its still doing the same thing. Can it be the master cylinder?
Could be a lot of things. Put your question up on our Facebook page, Wrenching with Kenny. Make sure you put the year, make & model of your vehicle. Add any codes it is currently throwing, what is going on with your vehicle & what you have done so far to fix it. Kenny will be on there within the next day or so. Thanks for watching- Mrs Wrenching aka Meg
Happens on the gas models also. The Buick Grand national used that set up back in the 80's. There is not one hydro boost that has not been replaced. Stupid engineering by GM.
I'll tell you why "he" left the red side of the tape on there... when I was replacing the booster originally, a piece of that original gasket material had flaked/broke off & I wasn't about to go get ripped off for some shitty gasket that's going to break/fake off when I could just use the padded tape to balance the spacing! As you can clearly see my tape stayed in place when you removed the booster! So I would have to say my shitty little hack held up better than your shitty little gasket. If I had removed the other side of the tape you would have been cussing up a storm trying to get that damn thing off! Then, you would have said why in the hell would they tape this F#%>ing thing to the firewall when there are four bolts to hold it on 🤬!?!?! And you sure as hell would've been right to ask! But as you can see I clearly was using the tape for a functional reason! It had nothing to do with leaking water... it was simply to prevent any water from getting in where the gasket had broke off. Now you know. You are welcome. 😉
Great video. he $9.00 seal kit on ebay fixed mine, and I didn't have to pull the unit from inside the cab
Awesome video Kenny I always learn new things from your videos.
Broke down today in my 2003 Chevy 2500 LS, and was scratching my head when I noticed I lost braking as well. I knew it was a problem around the master cylinder as it was leaking. But didn’t notice any brake fluid leaking. I saw a line going to the back of master cylinder and was scratching my head until I ran into this video. Thank you now I will change both
Thank you for making such a great video
Thanks for showing me my problem.
Something New! Kenny, that was very interesting! I would have never guessed a power steering pump would be used for brake assist. Then again, you would have laughed if you watched me trying to find the power steering pump when I first got my 2013 Ford Explorer.
Great videos, nice knowledge tool.
This happened to me this morning. I had not moved the truck for a couple of days. It was fine when I parked it, but the steering was locked up and the breaks would hardly hold. Thanks for the great video and explanation about the fix.
Thank you for the video
Tube wrenches can save ya. Using the correct tool is always important.
I followed the lines on my 2010 duramax and I think the way it works is that high pressure fluid goes from pump to hydroboost unit, and passes through via the other high pressure line to the steering box, then there is a return line from the steering box back to the reservoir. I think the rationale is you are typically not braking while steering, so the fluid can pass through the brake boost, at pressure, to assist the steering. I could be mistaken but I think that is how it works.
I had the bad surge tank cap on my 2007 classic for years, had the collapsed hose when cold, at first I didn't think it was the cap
I checked it and replaced no more collapsed hose
For 01-10 duramax it is wise to upgrade to the 2011 hydroboost
Thanks
Hey I have a 2005 Yukon SLT 5.3L automatic with 218,000 miles. All stock equipped.
Doesn't make any noise of any kind, that's abnormal. Well kept and daily driver.
I drove it out on the highway for 300 miles and when I exited Interstate it was in manual steering mode...stiff to turn like it had no pump at all. And the brakes were not boosted either. It's not the belt or fluids of steering or brakes...all good. No leaks. No codes. No smells. No noises of pump failure. It only does it at low rpms when coming to stop, under 700 rpm. It works fine when above that. And the brakes are unboosted when it does it also, but work.
This is the pump I assume? Remove and replace eh?
Suggestions of what pump brands you had success with? I'm eyeballing the O'Reily $72 special.
Thank you!
awesome , great video.. liked and subscribed , from robert in houston texas
the last one i did that retainer took a flight to china!! i found it though
Remember the Old's 350 diesel. They used the hydroboost too. Drove an '80 Cutlass that had been converted back to gas. Only thing I ever noticed is that in parking lots at low RPM sometimes I'd lose boost to the steering for a second. Just not enough fluid getting pumped through the system to handle all the extra braking and turning for parking maneuvers. Why does hydroboost exist? Diesels don't have manifold vacuum, so a vacuum booster isn't going to work. However, you can have a belt driven vacuum pump, my work van, Ford 350 7.3L had the vacuum pump. Basically just a diaphragm pump like the old cam eccentric fuel pumps. It was on the driver side and ran off the serpentine. If you find your brakes a little stiff or needing some extra oomph make sure the check valve on the booster is working and the grommet is sealing. If that's ok, the pump is a pretty easy job. A pain on the van, not so bad on the trucks.
These Bendix Hydro-Boost units are the same between manufactures. The systems can work both ways, pressure from the to PS, then to booster, or Booster first, then PS.
Yep, my best friend of 55 years, and his middle brother had 1998 astro vans. Both had the hydro boost systems (all did) Well, the brother went to replace a power steering hose that was leaking (he's a UPS truck driver for the past 40 years) Well, after he does this, his wife goes to drive her van. She lost PS/Brakes, so they towed it to the shop I worked at. Turns out, he must have gotten dirt n grit in the new line, while installing it. Whole area was nasty dirty etc.
Well, turns out the PS pump shaft snapped in half, inside the PS pump! Hence no ps pump turning, no brakes or steering....I replaced the pump, and other ps line, and got it back up and driveable, I joked and told him to "Leave the wrenching to the pro's, stick to driving your semi"
Seemed I was always at different points in time, having to redo mechanical stuff he'd try and made worse. But he did eventually get to the point of just not wanna deal with car problems , and call me up to fix what ever was broken.
Used to work at Sears Auto years ago and replace a hydroboost on a old G20 van. We had problems getting the air out of the system. Me and my coworker we're still learning at that time and a couple years later did get in a more advanced mechanic who fixed everything but never got in a leaking hydroboost to learn how to get the air out of the system. I think there was something different about that G20 van also. Hope you make another video only hydroboost on a G20 van. 😃 My knees are gone bad but I still work on my own cars and help out friends. New to this channel.Hope u make Videos for a long time.
IIRC some Chrysler products had a procedure involving a special cap to allow you to apply vacuum to the fluid reservoir while working the steering back and forth, and working the brakes. Maybe those had something similar.
Would've loved to see you rebuild the hydroboost unit. Nice video anyways
Would like to know what cost im looking at .on mine its the power steering pump making my brakes hard to apply. Intermittent power steering goes out especially after driving awhile. I did not know they were tied together untill this video. Got my sub.
Thank you so much this was a good video I'm going to have to do this in a couple of days. I appreciate the heads up...😊
I had a hummer back in 08 fooling around in snow in a huge parking lot burned the ps pump. It was the worst experience driving back to my shop. In the middle of the night two feet on the brake and no ps stupid design. Considering they have been using it for years. You would think they would have redesigned the system so they don't leak or scrap it all together
I have a 08 2500 duramax that I've been having some issues with, whenever i turn the wheel or hit the brakes, they shake. Under the hood you can see the power steering pump and brake fluid reservoir shake really bad.
Kenny i have replaced this 9n a 2006 Yukon. Now the brakes stay locked. What are your thoughts?
Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.
I got the same issue, about to replace the master
@@dieselshenanigans2458that’s what worked for me. The master cylinder.
turn the spring retainer until one "leg" is even with the slot, then push down on one side and it pops out. No need for tools.
Is that pushrod adjustable? I replaced my Master Cylinder because pedal was going to the floor, and it looked very similar to the old one. However, now the booster is putting a preload on the MC and my brake fluid is getting trapped in the lines and applying my brakes when they get hot. Other boosters have a nut and threaded rod for adjustment.
Did you get it fixed? Having the same problem. Getting ready to unbolt it and investigate
@@rarefruit2320 I pulled the guts out of the old MC and put them in the new MC. My pedal is squishy, but works. I didn't replace the O-rings and that's probably what's worn out causing the pedal to feel squishy. So yes and no
Hello i have a 2005 2500hd(gas) where all my brakes are engaged continuously even while the truck is off. Ive changed the booster but its still doing the same thing. Can it be the master cylinder?
Could be a lot of things. Put your question up on our Facebook page, Wrenching with Kenny. Make sure you put the year, make & model of your vehicle. Add any codes it is currently throwing, what is going on with your vehicle & what you have done so far to fix it. Kenny will be on there within the next day or so. Thanks for watching- Mrs Wrenching aka Meg
What sound do you hear?
Happens on the gas models also. The Buick Grand national used that set up back in the 80's. There is not one hydro boost that has not been replaced. Stupid engineering by GM.
Can't you just remove the torx bolts instead of removing the entire unit from the firewall?
So that clip is the hardest part of the job???
Under the firewall too
I'll tell you why "he" left the red side of the tape on there... when I was replacing the booster originally, a piece of that original gasket material had flaked/broke off & I wasn't about to go get ripped off for some shitty gasket that's going to break/fake off when I could just use the padded tape to balance the spacing! As you can clearly see my tape stayed in place when you removed the booster! So I would have to say my shitty little hack held up better than your shitty little gasket. If I had removed the other side of the tape you would have been cussing up a storm trying to get that damn thing off! Then, you would have said why in the hell would they tape this F#%>ing thing to the firewall when there are four bolts to hold it on 🤬!?!?! And you sure as hell would've been right to ask! But as you can see I clearly was using the tape for a functional reason! It had nothing to do with leaking water... it was simply to prevent any water from getting in where the gasket had broke off. Now you know. You are welcome. 😉
This your truck? I feel like this is your truck.