I have done mine twice,I used a different maker,cost a few bucks more.Both times no leaks for about three weeks.Then dang thing starts leaking really Bad.first oring/seal did have a smashed spot on it.
I completed it leaving it mounted, great help here not to forget this piece, also don't forget to hook up the plunger not like I forgot.great great help here, btw 10mm did it for me, keep it square with the bolt
I'm doing mine now same way. But the lower piston don't seem to be going into the new seal. I don't want to force it. I'll keep trying unless someone has any feedback for ways to help
I had no idea what hydroboost was . I ended up putting dye in my power steering fluid and then I learned. I hope no springs or anything else falls out as long as I'm careful. Am I correct in assuming this ? Thanks.
I rebuilt mine then the O-ring started leaking in one week. I put a remanufactured dirt last on there from AutoZone and it started leaking immediately. What would cause my Hydro boost valve to leak? Would it be the power steering pump or gearbox anything like that could cause that
I had that happen to me in the past when I first started rebuilding these. Double check ur work (cliche I know). Sounds like either it's not sitting flush from the bleeder not pushed in all the way or the o ring is folding inside when ur putting the plunger back in thru it. Make sure to lub the plunger well. My guess is the oring is folding and that's why ur only getting a week's worth of use outta it before it goes bad again. Good luck lmk
@@richardeddings7259 there's a bleeder that has 3 holes. Make sure that's pushed all the way in so when u put it back together it sits flush to the housing/mount on the firewall. And make sure to not fold the new oring when putting the plunger back thru
@@daltonm4896 I rebuilt the first one but the second one was already rebuilt by Duralast. I think I'm not priming my system with the engine off both times I've primed with the engine on probably have air pockets blowing out O-ring.
I buy the 3 seal bag but u can buy the entire rebuild kit which has like 10+ seals if u wanna do a full rebuild (not recommend) the 3 bag 99% of the time is all u need and it's the inside plunger seal that goes bad
@@jaysmith7526 I don't see how u are confused? There's 3 pieces. Ur thinking to much an depth 1 seal/gasket garment, for the mount to housing 2 seals/gssket garments, 1-big and 1-small depending on if u have 3500HD+ or regular hydro u decide which one u have after u pull the plunger put. Important: don't ram the plunger back in after u installed the new inside seal. Take a "pick" like I have in my video and gentle roll it back over the seal inside. Good luck
@@jaysmith7526 You use 2 of the 3. There is an extra one bc as Dalton mentioned there is 2 different size for heavier or lighter duty applications. When you pull the old seal out you will match that seal up to the size of the correct new one and thats how you know which one to use. So again, TWO of the TRHEE in the kit get used.
3yrs later and still helping people. Thank you for the extra info about the plunger part, i don't believe anyone else covered that part.
Great info. brother.. I dreaded going under dash but I can take just disconnecting push rod. Many thanks.
I wondered if this could be done without removing the whole unit, like you did. Thanks alot.
Thanks bud I appreciate your video!! I've always wondered what it would take to fix the leak looks simple way way better than replacing it!!
I have done mine twice,I used a different maker,cost a few bucks more.Both times no leaks for about three weeks.Then dang thing starts leaking really Bad.first oring/seal did have a smashed spot on it.
The correct socket for the bolt is an E-Torx or External Torx.
I completed it leaving it mounted, great help here not to forget this piece, also don't forget to hook up the plunger not like I forgot.great great help here, btw 10mm did it for me, keep it square with the bolt
Appreciate it. I try to make videos but bad with replies on them. Glad I could help 👍👍
Was it a pain when mounted
@@chillingwithzay182 no, not at all.just remember when you separate it will still be under pressure, put a rag below on top the inner fender well
Thanks, you saved me time and money 😊
Glad I could help 👍
I think this is where my 05 yukon xl 5.3l is leaking from about to tackle it now.
I'm doing mine now same way. But the lower piston don't seem to be going into the new seal. I don't want to force it. I'll keep trying unless someone has any feedback for ways to help
I bought a new one from autozone and it was leaking worse than the old one. If they do it again ima have to get my core back and replace the seals
Do you know where I can get a plunger for my 98 GMC k2500 hydro boost it was left at the parts store
Did u hv to bleed lines.
How far in the casing does the star set in there
I had no idea what hydroboost was . I ended up putting dye in my power steering fluid and then I learned. I hope no springs or anything else falls out as long as I'm careful. Am I correct in assuming this ? Thanks.
I rebuilt mine then the O-ring started leaking in one week. I put a remanufactured dirt last on there from AutoZone and it started leaking immediately. What would cause my Hydro boost valve to leak? Would it be the power steering pump or gearbox anything like that could cause that
I had that happen to me in the past when I first started rebuilding these. Double check ur work (cliche I know). Sounds like either it's not sitting flush from the bleeder not pushed in all the way or the o ring is folding inside when ur putting the plunger back in thru it. Make sure to lub the plunger well. My guess is the oring is folding and that's why ur only getting a week's worth of use outta it before it goes bad again. Good luck lmk
@@daltonm4896 the second one was from autozone
@@daltonm4896 what do you mean sitting flush what karts are you talking about
@@richardeddings7259 there's a bleeder that has 3 holes. Make sure that's pushed all the way in so when u put it back together it sits flush to the housing/mount on the firewall. And make sure to not fold the new oring when putting the plunger back thru
@@daltonm4896 I rebuilt the first one but the second one was already rebuilt by Duralast. I think I'm not priming my system with the engine off both times I've primed with the engine on probably have air pockets blowing out O-ring.
Do you have the link for the gaskets
How many gaskets 1 or 3?
I buy the 3 seal bag but u can buy the entire rebuild kit which has like 10+ seals if u wanna do a full rebuild (not recommend) the 3 bag 99% of the time is all u need and it's the inside plunger seal that goes bad
How many is used out of the three bag. I'm so confused!
@@jaysmith7526 I don't see how u are confused? There's 3 pieces. Ur thinking to much an depth
1 seal/gasket garment, for the mount to housing
2 seals/gssket garments, 1-big and 1-small depending on if u have 3500HD+ or regular hydro u decide which one u have after u pull the plunger put.
Important: don't ram the plunger back in after u installed the new inside seal. Take a "pick" like I have in my video and gentle roll it back over the seal inside. Good luck
@@jaysmith7526 You use 2 of the 3. There is an extra one bc as Dalton mentioned there is 2 different size for heavier or lighter duty applications. When you pull the old seal out you will match that seal up to the size of the correct new one and thats how you know which one to use. So again, TWO of the TRHEE in the kit get used.
Does this leak cause a whining noise?
Other way around. It'll start winning cause it's leaking
Seems like way less work than the other videos on here
I loke you way better. Hate going under the dash
Sir...i have hard steering to left only and turning right is normal....will a bad hydrobooster cause this?...thanks
I think this little gay guy you mentioned in the video is riding it the other way around, the top would have to be down.