I do my speedy also where I can, the only thing I do to perhaps help is, before dropping the oil, tie the clutch lever back to separate the plates. It’s not a must, just something I do. Best to get as much out as possible in my opinion. Well explained, great video👍
If you get oil on the floor cat litter is really great at absorbing the oil, saves you using degreaser and other cleaning products. You can re-use it too until its not as effective.
Nice video mate. I have only one concern. The K&N sport filter (with the nut on the bottom) must NOT be tightened from the nut. The nut should be used only when you are about to take it off. Tightening it might strip it off a bit (the nut part) and cause oil leaks.
@@nikolaossiachamis8891 Yeah did a bit of research and found one. Will do my first oil change on my Speed Triple this coming spring... These canadian winters are too long!
Hi, you don’t need to put the basin when starting to unscrew the oil plug - it will dip after a while but not immediately (it was not helping you to do the work ) 😊
Good, informative video. Only problem is, by the time I’ve bought oil, a filter, a crush washer, some sockets and a torque wrench it’s about the same price as getting my dealer to do it. But admittedly, not as satisfying as doing it yourself though.
Hi Bob, yes that is true, consumables around £40, a decent torque wrench will £80+ or something, and by the time you add a few extra tools you likely will have got to the £180 dealer price. It depends on individual circumstances, but I treat tools as an investment, as they can be used for many jobs and soon pay themselves back.
Taking the above example, after the initial outlay, if I use the tools on my motorbike and car, thats £280 saving per year on oil changes alone. Other people have newer cars or other circumstances which means using a garage makes more sense. Less tangible, but I like the flexibility to fit things in around my schedule, rather than the dealers.
@@edutainment5431 That’s true. A good torque wrench should last a lifetime. Unless you buy one off Amazon that’s made in the PRC, in which case it might last till lunchtime.
Yes, sounds about right. I like Wera the best, but Teng make some solid tools as well. For value and budget, if you are UK based I would just go Halfords - no idea where they are made (probs PRC) but they usually have a lifetime warranty.
@@edutainment5431 I’ll get myself a low range Wera wrench. That’s all I’ll need for now to sort the clutch out. I’m not in the U.K. any more, but I know Screwfix here in France do them. Keep up the good work and ride safe.
The comments below concerning the K+N filter with the nut on the bottom being dangerous are only too true.Last October(2020) I was 100 miles from home when I suffered a horrendous rear wheel slide.The tyre slipped and gripped almost catapaulting me off the bike.Turned out the oil filter was leaking.And it wasn't the seal it was the section where the nut was welded or riveted to the canister.The filter had been on for 3000 miles and was installed by myself without using a wrench on the nut....basically hand tight.I had been using these filters for years with no problems on my two Triumph triples.There are many similar tales online of these filters failing....even exploding!I contacted K+N but they lost interest after I admitted I fitted it myself.Apparently the statement'This part should be fitted by a trained technician' absolves them from any blame.
Thanks for adding your experience, I did not realise it was so severe. My part got a recall, but K&N confirmed my unit was in an okay batch, so I did not need to do anything else (which was lucky, filter aside it just haf £30 of brand new oil in it)
@@edutainment5431 I was disgusted with K+N's response.I could have been killed.As it was I had to ride the bike 100 miles home after buying 2 litres of car oil to keep topping it up.I was refused recovery by Green Flag Breakdown because of the covid.But I realised the oil was being flung off the centre tread of the tyre and collecting on the edges so If I kept the bike upright I was OK.And the roads were really quiet.I lost about 3 litres of oil in total.I got home at 10pm!
@@edutainment5431 Sir, change that k&n filter. I have had this same filter fail at the nut at the end after it was fitted for only 2 months. It;s not worth the risk. I now only use the Triumph OEM unit.
Be interested to know what people's experience is with the 1050 reliability? Chum of mine bought an (used) ST with the 1050 lump - sprag clutch died quite quickly after buying. So it seems Triumph hadn't sorted out the sprag problem the 955 engine was known for; there's a vid on this platform showing how to do it without splitting the cases...
Wonder if Triumph were using up the old stock they had from the 955, in some of the 1050 units (save brass?). Looking up the parts numbers could shed some light. Wouldn't necessarily put me off buying one - these are great looking, pretty quick bikes, I just think it's a shame Triumph weren't on top of this, once they knew there was a problem with the part. It would have been much better PR, of they'd re-designed the part and done a recall. Optimate/strong battery - goes a long way to avoiding. But it should have been dealt with properly. Can't have been nice for buyers, when these models were still strong money, if theirs broke
Hello, not sure mine has been reliable so far, the main issue has been the suspension which seized up, and I had to replace the bearings. Its due a lubrication soon so will make a vid. I have needed two new batteries in mine, even when kept on an optimate, not sure whats going on there...
I have done about 15,000 miles. My speedo MPG says 52 average, however I think this reset itself when battery died (haven't ridden it loads since as wet and cold). I had a figure more like 40-45 in my head.
Hi Jeremy, no stator rectifier issues for me so far. Mine has always been kept garaged, and on an Optimate, so that has probably helped, if the new battery dies too quickly I will probably investigate deeper. Only problem I have had is my rear suspension seized. Its almost due for a re-greasing (a must-do preventative job in my view). I upgraded the rear shock at the same time.
Hi Jeremy, I find mine doesn't really burn oil, 8000km feels a little high to me, 3000-4000 seems more comfortable, but i guess triumph know what they are on about. Once the engine gets more worn, it could start burning a little (my car has started to a little at 100,000 km). Worth checking level regularly. Is yours burning much?
Hi Rodrigo, I cannot find the actual ones I used anymore, however these look just like the ones I have (mine are stamped with '3 Piston's but I think these are same pattern). ebay.us/2goQXA Not sure where you are based, might need to try local sites, or international shipping (like these ebay.us/j0aGkn ) Good luck, I think they are way better than originals for functionality and style.
Thought Speed triple us Castrol power 1 10w40 semi synthetic 🤔 ps ensure when removing old filter you remove old rubber seal as well 👍 nut is for removal only 👏
Hi Charlie, Castrol do a semi and a fully synth 'race' version. They don't provide any specific guidance on their website for my model, but the later 1050s recommend fully synth, Castrol 1 Racing 4T as well as confirming either is fine as long as they meet certain standards.
@@edutainment5431 tough choice considering choices I went for Motul 5100 10w40 semi synthetic from sportsbike shop way above standard any dealer would use £34.96 for 5 litres happy days 👍
Bonjour Nikky, its an M14 thread. The washers I use are 14mm x 20mm x 3mm (same on my car and bike, so i got a multipack). The official triumph part (T3558989) is 14.4mm x 23mm x 3mm. In my view, as long as it fits the m14 snugly its fine, but you may prefer to go OEM.
Hello, its 3-3.5L of oil needed, but I would only use this as a rough guide for purchasing bottles, and do it by the dipstick, easy to top up but a pain to remove if you overfill!
Hi Neo, its a bit dirty, but i believe rear sprocket was changed the year before this video. I change both sprockets together with the chain, and do it on a condition basis measuring the elongation. Will get a video up when it next wears out, can save significant cash over dealer.
I do my speedy also where I can, the only thing I do to perhaps help is, before dropping the oil, tie the clutch lever back to separate the plates. It’s not a must, just something I do. Best to get as much out as possible in my opinion.
Well explained, great video👍
Thanks Kev, that's a great tip never thought of it before, will do that next time i change my oil 👍
Top Tip 😊
tip top tippy never ever thought of that one !!!
Superb clarity. Great job. 👍🏻
From Seattle Washington, thank you - just picked up an 09 speed triple! love it!
Great to hear Oscar, enjoy the bike. Few more toys on the newer ones.
Great post! Thanks mate.
Nice job thanks
Great!!thanks
An excellent video, too rare
Thank you for the video
If you get oil on the floor cat litter is really great at absorbing the oil, saves you using degreaser and other cleaning products. You can re-use it too until its not as effective.
Nice tip thanks
Excellent thank you 👍
Mate, try doing an oil charge on a KTM Superduke, a right pain in the ars!! Good videos! Thanks 😊
Haha never tried, but the effort must be worth it for such a beast of a bike! Cheers
Nice video mate. I have only one concern. The K&N sport filter (with the nut on the bottom) must NOT be tightened from the nut. The nut should be used only when you are about to take it off. Tightening it might strip it off a bit (the nut part) and cause oil leaks.
Was not aware of that, thanks - is that from the K&N literature?
@@edutainment5431 Yes, it's from the official k&n website. Attention: The welded 17 hexagon tool grip is only intended for loosening the oil filter.
Then, how do manage to tight it? By hand? Special tool?
@@PLVC3BO an oil filter wrench will do it.
@@nikolaossiachamis8891 Yeah did a bit of research and found one. Will do my first oil change on my Speed Triple this coming spring... These canadian winters are too long!
Hi, you don’t need to put the basin when starting to unscrew the oil plug - it will dip after a while but not immediately (it was not helping you to do the work ) 😊
Thanks for the tip, should make things easier
Good, informative video. Only problem is, by the time I’ve bought oil, a filter, a crush washer, some sockets and a torque wrench it’s about the same price as getting my dealer to do it. But admittedly, not as satisfying as doing it yourself though.
Hi Bob, yes that is true, consumables around £40, a decent torque wrench will £80+ or something, and by the time you add a few extra tools you likely will have got to the £180 dealer price.
It depends on individual circumstances, but I treat tools as an investment, as they can be used for many jobs and soon pay themselves back.
Taking the above example, after the initial outlay, if I use the tools on my motorbike and car, thats £280 saving per year on oil changes alone. Other people have newer cars or other circumstances which means using a garage makes more sense.
Less tangible, but I like the flexibility to fit things in around my schedule, rather than the dealers.
@@edutainment5431 That’s true. A good torque wrench should last a lifetime. Unless you buy one off Amazon that’s made in the PRC, in which case it might last till lunchtime.
Yes, sounds about right. I like Wera the best, but Teng make some solid tools as well. For value and budget, if you are UK based I would just go Halfords - no idea where they are made (probs PRC) but they usually have a lifetime warranty.
@@edutainment5431 I’ll get myself a low range Wera wrench. That’s all I’ll need for now to sort the clutch out. I’m not in the U.K. any more, but I know Screwfix here in France do them. Keep up the good work and ride safe.
The comments below concerning the K+N filter with the nut on the bottom being dangerous are only too true.Last October(2020) I was 100 miles from home when I suffered a horrendous rear wheel slide.The tyre slipped and gripped almost catapaulting me off the bike.Turned out the oil filter was leaking.And it wasn't the seal it was the section where the nut was welded or riveted to the canister.The filter had been on for 3000 miles and was installed by myself without using a wrench on the nut....basically hand tight.I had been using these filters for years with no problems on my two Triumph triples.There are many similar tales online of these filters failing....even exploding!I contacted K+N but they lost interest after I admitted I fitted it myself.Apparently the statement'This part should be fitted by a trained technician' absolves them from any blame.
Thanks for adding your experience, I did not realise it was so severe. My part got a recall, but K&N confirmed my unit was in an okay batch, so I did not need to do anything else (which was lucky, filter aside it just haf £30 of brand new oil in it)
@@edutainment5431 I was disgusted with K+N's response.I could have been killed.As it was I had to ride the bike 100 miles home after buying 2 litres of car oil to keep topping it up.I was refused recovery by Green Flag Breakdown because of the covid.But I realised the oil was being flung off the centre tread of the tyre and collecting on the edges so If I kept the bike upright I was OK.And the roads were really quiet.I lost about 3 litres of oil in total.I got home at 10pm!
Sounds a dangerous situation glad you got home in one piece, after hearing that seems very poor from K & N especially with a known fault...
@@edutainment5431 Sir, change that k&n filter. I have had this same filter fail at the nut at the end after it was fitted for only 2 months. It;s not worth the risk. I now only use the Triumph OEM unit.
My understanding was the failures were on a specific batch? Maybe i have this wrong?
Be interested to know what people's experience is with the 1050 reliability?
Chum of mine bought an (used) ST with the 1050 lump - sprag clutch died quite quickly after buying.
So it seems Triumph hadn't sorted out the sprag problem the 955 engine was
known for; there's a vid on this platform showing how to do it without splitting the cases...
Wonder if Triumph were using up the old stock they had from the 955, in some of the
1050 units (save brass?). Looking up the parts numbers could shed some light.
Wouldn't necessarily put me off buying one - these are great looking, pretty quick
bikes, I just think it's a shame Triumph weren't on top of this, once they
knew there was a problem with the part.
It would have been much better PR, of they'd re-designed the part and done a
recall.
Optimate/strong battery - goes a long way to avoiding. But it should have been dealt
with properly. Can't have been nice for buyers, when these models were still strong money,
if theirs broke
Hello, not sure mine has been reliable so far, the main issue has been the suspension which seized up, and I had to replace the bearings. Its due a lubrication soon so will make a vid. I have needed two new batteries in mine, even when kept on an optimate, not sure whats going on there...
Thanks a lot for an instructional video. What is the mileage and mpg on your ST?
I have done about 15,000 miles. My speedo MPG says 52 average, however I think this reset itself when battery died (haven't ridden it loads since as wet and cold). I had a figure more like 40-45 in my head.
Hi mate how long do you own the bike? Any issues with it? Stator rectifiers etc...?
Hi Jeremy, no stator rectifier issues for me so far. Mine has always been kept garaged, and on an Optimate, so that has probably helped, if the new battery dies too quickly I will probably investigate deeper.
Only problem I have had is my rear suspension seized. Its almost due for a re-greasing (a must-do preventative job in my view). I upgraded the rear shock at the same time.
Will post a vid when I do the routine lubrication work on swingarm.
@@edutainment5431 do you have to add oil in between the service intervals of 8000km?
Hi Jeremy, I find mine doesn't really burn oil, 8000km feels a little high to me, 3000-4000 seems more comfortable, but i guess triumph know what they are on about.
Once the engine gets more worn, it could start burning a little (my car has started to a little at 100,000 km).
Worth checking level regularly. Is yours burning much?
@@edutainment5431 dont you have to empty the oil cooler during this process?
hi there i would like to know what mark are your bar end mirrors??? i like it !!!!
Hi Rodrigo, I cannot find the actual ones I used anymore, however these look just like the ones I have (mine are stamped with '3 Piston's but I think these are same pattern). ebay.us/2goQXA
Not sure where you are based, might need to try local sites, or international shipping (like these ebay.us/j0aGkn )
Good luck, I think they are way better than originals for functionality and style.
Thought Speed triple us Castrol power 1 10w40 semi synthetic 🤔 ps ensure when removing old filter you remove old rubber seal as well 👍 nut is for removal only 👏
Hi Charlie, Castrol do a semi and a fully synth 'race' version. They don't provide any specific guidance on their website for my model, but the later 1050s recommend fully synth, Castrol 1 Racing 4T as well as confirming either is fine as long as they meet certain standards.
When you say remove rubber seal, is that the one built into the filter? Mine has always stayed put when i remove it
@@edutainment5431 worth checking old seal can stay in place 👍
@@edutainment5431 tough choice considering choices I went for Motul 5100 10w40 semi synthetic from sportsbike shop way above standard any dealer would use £34.96 for 5 litres happy days 👍
bonjour , what is the diameter (interior exterior) of sump plug sealing washer ? thanks
Bonjour Nikky, its an M14 thread. The washers I use are 14mm x 20mm x 3mm (same on my car and bike, so i got a multipack). The official triumph part (T3558989) is 14.4mm x 23mm x 3mm.
In my view, as long as it fits the m14 snugly its fine, but you may prefer to go OEM.
@@edutainment5431 Thanks Edutainment
hi, A question for you: how much oil did you put in total including the oil in the filter?
Hello, its 3-3.5L of oil needed, but I would only use this as a rough guide for purchasing bottles, and do it by the dipstick, easy to top up but a pain to remove if you overfill!
Grazie
Нормально.
Your rear sprocket is dead
Hi Neo, its a bit dirty, but i believe rear sprocket was changed the year before this video. I change both sprockets together with the chain, and do it on a condition basis measuring the elongation. Will get a video up when it next wears out, can save significant cash over dealer.